Flacon Parure c1975-1987

The Flacon Parure, created in 1975, was a strikingly modern design reserved exclusively for Guerlain’s perfume Parure. Conceived by Robert Granai, it was inspired by natural forms and imbued with a sculptural quality that set it apart from Guerlain’s more classical bottle repertoire. Its faceted oval body evoked the image of a river-worn pebble, polished smooth by the passage of time, while its base—a molded and titled black resin pedestal—gave the bottle a sense of weight and permanence, like a jewel mounted on a plinth.

The stopper, equally bold in conception, was crafted from blue-grey tinted glass. Shaped to resemble the wavy aura of the sun, it crowned the bottle with a luminous, celestial presence, reinforcing Granai’s theme of timeless elegance and natural harmony. Together, the pebble-like body and solar stopper conveyed both the solidity of the earth and the radiance of the sky, reflecting the perfume’s name, Parure—a word that suggests adornment, elegance, and completeness.

Production of the flacon was shared between two renowned French glassmakers: Pochet et du Courval produced seven moulds while Saint-Gobain Desjonquères produced one. Their combined expertise ensured the bottle’s precision of form and the clarity of its tinted stopper, hallmarks of Guerlain’s long-standing collaboration with the finest artisans.

The Parure bottle was manufactured only until spring 1987, after which it was discontinued. From September 1981, the fragrance continued to be sold in Guerlain’s standard 7.5 ml and 15 ml quadrilobe stopper bottles until the end of 1989, when Parure itself was withdrawn from production.

Today, the Flacon Parure stands as a testament to Guerlain’s innovative spirit during the 1970s, when the house embraced bold, sculptural designs that blended natural inspiration with modern luxury. Its unique form and short production span make it a particularly collectible piece within the Guerlain canon.

Sizes:

Pochet et du Courval:

• Mould #21153 = 2.3ml sample size, glass base (Mar 1975)
• Mould #21284 = 7.5ml/0.25 oz - 9cm/3.54" (1975-1981)
• Mould #21286 = 15ml/0.5 oz - 11.5cm/4.53" (1975-1981) 
• Mould #21155 = 30ml/1 oz - 14.5cm/5.63", bottle without base and stuck to a black Bakelite stand with the "Guerlain" name. Base with engraving "Guerlain - Copyright 1974 - Bottle Made in France." (1975- 1987)
• Mould #21157 = 60ml/2 oz - 17cm/6.69" (1975-1985)
• Mould #21159 = 120cc/120ml/4.06 oz - 20.7cm/8.15", bottle without base and stuck to a black bakelite stand with the Guerlain name. Base engraved in white: "Guerlain - Copyright 1974 - Bottle Made in France." (1975-1980)
• Mould #21305 = 1290 ml - 42.5cm, large display (factice) bottle of yellow tinted glass, with ground glass stopper, the bottle has the black bakelite base.

Saint-Gobain Desjonqueres:

• Mould #4972 (plan 24673) = 15ml/0.5 oz - 11.5cm/4.53" with all-glass foot, base engraved with "Guerlain Paris Bottle Made in France SGD" (1979)

Bottles:

Flacon de Sac (Purse Bottle) /Parapluie Flacon (Umbrella Bottle) c1952-1978

The Flacon de Sac, also known as the Parapluie Flacon (Umbrella Bottle), was introduced by Guerlain around 1952 and remained in use until 1978. Designed as a portable, handbag-sized presentation, it provided a practical yet elegant way for clients to carry their favorite Guerlain extraits. The compact form made it ideal for travel or daily use, while its refined styling ensured it aligned with the house’s tradition of luxury.

The bottles themselves were produced in both round and oval bases, reflecting slight variations depending on the manufacturer. They rarely carried the signature mark of the glassworks, but some examples are inscribed with one of several possible legends: “Guerlain Paris,” “Guerlain Paris France,” or “Guerlain Bottle Made in France.” The flacons were topped with gold-colored screw caps, and from the neck hung a cord suspending a double-sided paper label, a detail that provided both branding and an element of charm.

Production of the purse bottles was shared by several renowned glass manufacturers, including Pochet et du Courval, Brosse, and Saint-Gobain Desjonquères. Over time, the presentation styles evolved. Early examples were housed in decorative boxes tailored to the identity of each perfume, while later versions omitted this extra packaging. For export to the United States, Guerlain adapted the format further by enclosing the bottle in a fitted leather case, underscoring its practicality as a true travel accessory.

The Flacon de Sac was employed for a wide range of Guerlain perfumes, among them Shalimar, Ode, L’Heure Bleue, Mitsouko, Jasmin, Vega, Jicky, Sous le Vent, Chant d’Arômes, Chamade, Vol de Nuit, and Liu. Interestingly, despite its popularity, this bottle was never used for Nahema when the fragrance debuted in 1979, marking the end of its era.

Measuring 7.8 cm (3.07 in) and holding 7 cc (7 ml, or about 0.25 oz) of extrait, the Flacon de Sac represents a thoughtful fusion of practicality and refinement. Today, it is remembered as a charming example of Guerlain’s attention to how perfume could accompany a woman throughout her day—portable luxury in miniature form.

In 1954, the leather etui cases were introduced.

Sizes:

Produced by three glassworks: Pochet, Brosse and SGD:

• 7cc/7ml/0.237 oz - 7.8cm/3.07"

Bottles:

Flacon Opaline c1951 - 1956

The Flacon Opaline, (bulle de savon opaline) produced between 1951 and around 1956, stands out as one of Guerlain’s most distinctive and luxurious creations of the mid-20th century. Conceived by the Cristal et Bronze company and designed by the enamelist R. Noirot, who worked from 1948-1956, the bottle was inspired by the popular French opaline cologne bottles of the mid-19th century. Those Victorian bottles, with their milky opalescent surfaces, bronze mounts, and gilded ground-glass stoppers, were highly prized for their decorative elegance. Guerlain’s version captured this nostalgic charm while updating it with a modern touch, decorating the glass with delicately enameled butterflies that danced across its surface.

Cristal et Bronze, renowned for producing garnitures de toilette of exceptional refinement, executed the bottle with the same artisanal precision for which they were famous. Their work for Guerlain highlights the house’s dedication to elevating perfume presentation into the realm of decorative arts. The bottle’s silhouette and embellishment evoked a romantic, antique sensibility, making it both a container for fragrance and a collectible object in its own right. The design harmonized beautifully with Guerlain’s aura of timeless elegance, bridging Victorian inspiration with mid-century luxury.

The Flacon Opaline was not tied to a single scent but rather served as a versatile vessel for Guerlain’s most celebrated perfumes, including L’Heure Bleue, Vol de Nuit, Mitsouko, Jicky, Ode, and Shalimar. In some instances, it even appeared without a fragrance name in the front cartouche, emphasizing its role as a universal luxury presentation. Available in three sizes—11.5 cm (4.53 in), 15.5 cm (6.1 in), and 18.5 cm (7.28 in)—the bottle offered variety for collectors and connoisseurs alike.

Although produced only for a short span, the Flacon Opaline is a testament to Guerlain’s postwar creativity and its willingness to collaborate with specialized artisans outside the traditional glassmakers like Baccarat or Pochet et du Courval. Today, it remains a rare and coveted example of Guerlain’s artistry, blending perfume heritage with the decorative elegance of French enamel and opaline traditions.

Sizes:

• 11.5cm/4.53"
• 15.5cm/6.1"
• 18.5cm/7.28"

Bottles:

Scents:

• Jicky 
• L’Heure Bleue
• Mitsouko
• Ode
• Shalimar
• Vol de Nuit

Flacon Noeud Papillon (Butterfly Knot) c1937-1956

The Flacon Noeud Papillon—literally the Butterfly Knot bottle—was created in 1937 to house Guerlain’s perfume Coque d’Or. Its distinctive form, modeled after a bow tie, was unlike anything Guerlain had previously commissioned and perfectly suited the fragrance’s name, which translates as “golden shell.” The design proved versatile enough to be reused in the 1940s and 1950s for other Guerlain extraits, including Kriss (1942–1945) and Dawamesk (from 1945 until about 1955). After June 1956, the bottle was no longer available, closing a unique chapter in Guerlain’s bottle history.

The bottle was made in both crystal and glass, with Baccarat credited as its primary creator. Identified as model #770, Baccarat manufactured five moulds, while Pochet et du Courval contributed two moulds, ensuring production could meet Guerlain’s needs. Notably, the bow-tie bottles were supplied unlacquered by the glassworks, meaning the brilliant cobalt blue versions—both plain and gilded—cannot be firmly attributed to a single perfume, even though they were used across several fragrances. The crystal versions were engraved at the factory with both the Baccarat trademark and their identification number. In contrast, the glass models were numbered only after they had been lacquered.

Collectors can distinguish between Baccarat and Pochet et du Courval examples through close attention to finish and markings. Baccarat bottles bear the acid-etched Baccarat trademark and are numbered with a stylus. Their stoppers can be either smooth or faceted. By comparison, bottles made by Pochet et du Courval initially featured smooth stoppers, but these were later modified to make opening easier. Instead of engraving, bottle and stopper were numbered in matte gold paint.

The Flacon Noeud Papillon remains one of Guerlain’s most iconic Art Deco bottles, admired for its elegance, ingenuity, and theatricality. Whether in cobalt glass or crystal, with or without gilding, it continues to capture the eye as a sculptural object that mirrors the glamour of its era.

Sizes:

Baccarat (smooth or faceted stoppers):

• 40cc/40ml/1.35 oz - 5.5cm/2.17" 
• 80cc/80ml/2.7 oz - 6.5cm/2.56 
• 125cc/125ml/4.2 oz - 7.5cm/2.95" 
• 250cc/250ml/8.4 oz - 8.5cm/3.35" 
• 500cc/500ml/16.9 oz - 10.5cm/4.13" 

Pochet et du Courval (smooth cap only):

• Mould #15455 = 40cc/40ml/1.35 oz - 5.5cm.2.17" 
• Mould #15385 = 82cc/82ml/2.77 oz - 6.6cm/2.6"

Bottles:

  

Scents:

• Champs Elysees
• Coque d'Or 
• Dawamesk
• Kriss

Presentation Box:

The presentation box for the Flacon Noeud Papillon was as striking and innovative as the bottle itself, conceived by the celebrated French decorator Jean-Michel Frank. Frank, who was responsible for the décor of Guerlain’s perfume shops with his signature trompe l’oeil effects, extended his refined aesthetic sensibility to this luxurious packaging. The box was constructed from poplar wood, but its surface was covered with a thin layer of plaster worked to imitate the effect of limed wood, giving it a subtly textured and elegant finish. This understated, modernist exterior provided a sophisticated counterpoint to the exuberant bow-tie form of the bottle within.

The box was fitted with a long hinge that allowed it to open smoothly, and many examples also feature a brass fastener to secure the lid. Inside, the bottle rested against a carefully cut white card insert, which held it snugly in place and ensured the presentation remained visually crisp and uncluttered. For export markets, an even more ingenious feature was introduced: a metal support system designed to lift the bottle as the box was opened. This thoughtful addition not only enhanced the presentation but also made removing the heavy glass or crystal bottle far easier for the user.

As with the bottle itself, the Noeud Papillon box reflected Guerlain’s commitment to artistry and luxury in every detail. Marrying Frank’s minimalist refinement with the theatrical glamour of the bow-tie design, the presentation achieved a perfect balance of modern French design and perfume-world fantasy. Today, surviving examples of these boxes are prized by collectors not only for their rarity but also as works of decorative art in their own right.

Flacon Nahema c1980-1992

The Flacon Nahema, produced between 1980 and 1992, was created exclusively to hold the extrait of Nahema, one of Guerlain’s most dramatic rose-centered compositions. The bottle’s design reflects the symbolic and mystical character of the fragrance itself. Robert Granai, Guerlain’s artistic director, drew inspiration from the form of an alchemist’s flask, which is echoed in the graceful curve at the base of the bottle. A defining feature is the teardrop motif set within the body of the glass, representing the distilled essence of the perfume—its very quintessence—and serving as a visual metaphor for the emotion the fragrance was intended to evoke.

Production of the flacon was shared between two of France’s leading glassmakers: Pochet et du Courval, who manufactured seven moulds, and Saint-Gobain Desjonquères, who created one additional mould. Over its period of use, two specific bottle sizes became familiar to collectors, though they remain somewhat difficult to document formally. A 7.5ml bottle was produced and sold from March 1981 until September 1992, alongside a total of 51,912 bottles manufactured by Saint-Gobain. A second bottle, in the 15ml size, was available from March 1980 until September 1991.

By the autumn of 1992, the Nahema flacon was retired. The extrait was then transferred to the 7.5ml size of the classic quadrilobe-stopper bottle, which became its standard presentation through the mid-1990s. For collectors today, the Flacon Nahema represents both a rare design departure for Guerlain and a perfect marriage of symbolism and form, encapsulating the alchemy of a fragrance that was itself a bold and emotional creation.

Sizes:

Pochet et du Courval:

Pochet produced seven moulds with necks for the "plastemeri" stopper. Bases of the bottles are sand engraved with "Copyright 78 - Bottle Made in France."

• Mould #22153 = 2.9cc sample bottle (Dec 1979)
• Mould # 22929 = 5cc sample bottle (April 1981)
• Mould # unknown = 7.5ml/0.25 oz - 8cm (1981-1992)
• Mould # unknown = 15ml /0.5 oz- 10.4 cm (1980-1991)
• Mould # 22155 = 30ml/1 oz - 13.4 cm (1979-1988)
• Mould # 22259 = 60ml/2 oz - 16.2 cm (1979-1985)
• Mould # 22261 = 120ml/4.06 oz - 20.2 cm (1979-1984)
• Mould # 22263 = 500cc (may 1979, not marketed)
• Mould # 22265 = 1460cc - 43.5cm, large factice display bottle (April 1981)

Saint-Gobain Desjonqueres:

• Mould #5097 (plan #25182) = 7.5ml - neck for "plastemeri" stopper, base with hollow engraving" Bole.M.I.France - Copyright 79." for "bottle made in France"

Bottles:

Nahema Parfum de Toilette Flacon c1978:

Four moulds were produced by Pochet et du Courval for the Parfum de Toilette. The bottle is based on the Robert Granai edition used for the Nahema parfum. 

Sizes:

Pochet et du Courval:

• Mould #22157 = 60ml - 11.5cm, not marketed (Dec 1978)
• Mould #22159 = 100ml - 14.3cm (Dec 1978-Dec 1992)
• Mould #22161 = 250ml - 18.8cm (Dec 1978-Dec 1992)
• Mould #22263 = 500ml - 23cm (May 1979-Dec 1987)

Saint-Gobain Desjonqueres:

Whereas the Parfum de Toilette Nahema has not been available in bottles since 1992, it was still being sold in a 50ml atomizer made by Saint-Gobain Desjonqueres.

• Mould #5014 (plan#25288) = 50ml atomizer, base with hollow engraving "Copyright 80 - SGD - Bottle - Made in France."

Bottles:

Flacon Montre (Watch) c1936 - 1999

The Flacon Montre (Watch), introduced in 1936, was one of Guerlain’s most enduring bottle designs, remaining in use until 1999. Created by Pochet et du Courval, the flacon was originally conceived to hold eaux de cologne, first appearing with Cachet Jaune. Its name, Montre, meaning “watch” in French, reflects the circular, compact shape of the bottle, which resembles the form of a pocket watch. Over time, it became a versatile vessel used for an impressive range of Guerlain fragrances, including Shalimar, Mitsouko, Jicky, Fôl Arôme, Chamade, Chant d’Arômes, Liu, L’Heure Bleue, Vol de Nuit, Sous le Vent, Chypre 53, Parure, and many more.

Production of the Flacon Montre involved multiple glassmakers over its long history. Pochet et du Courval, the primary producer, created six moulds. In addition, Belgium’s Val Saint Lambert and Momignies Glass Co. each supplied a mould, while the Brosse glassworks also produced one mould of its own (22.5cm tall). This collaboration across different manufacturers ensured consistent supply as demand for Guerlain’s eaux de cologne increased, particularly in the mid-20th century when lighter, more affordable concentrations of luxury perfumes gained popularity.

A 1950 article highlighted Guerlain’s marketing approach with this bottle: “Guerlain recommends spraying a room with their famous Shalimar eau de cologne. This is a lighter form of their famous perfume. Because it is lighter, it is less expensive and can be used more lavishly.” This quote not only illustrates the practicality of the cologne concentration but also underscores how the Flacon Montre was positioned as both luxurious and accessible, a way for customers to indulge in Guerlain scents on a grander scale.

Originally created for Cachet Jaune in 1936, the Montre bottle quickly became the standard vessel for all Guerlain’s perfumed Eaux de Cologne and was widely exported, cementing its place as one of the house’s most recognizable flacons. Its packaging evolved considerably over the decades: the earliest boxes were blue with simple banding, later replaced by a plain white design, followed by a coffee bean motif, then a striking black-and-white zigzag pattern, and finally, elegant gold boxes. By 1997, the Montre flacon was offered in France in 100ml and 200ml sizes for Shalimar (distinguished by its navy blue label) and Mitsouko. For the export market, Guerlain also produced a 60ml size, most commonly filled with Shalimar, Mitsouko, and Vol de Nuit, extending the bottle’s reach to an international clientele who sought a lighter yet refined form of Guerlain’s iconic perfumes.

Used for over six decades, the Flacon Montre is emblematic of Guerlain’s ability to balance tradition with modern utility. While its design was simple and functional, its longevity and adaptability across a wide range of Guerlain’s iconic fragrances make it an important chapter in the house’s bottle history.

Sizes:

Pochet et du Courval:

• From 1936-1972, necks are smoothed for ground glass stopper, base of bottle molded with "guerlain - 90 Alcoolique - Made in France."
• From 1972-1979, these bottles were made with a threaded neck for the gold screw-cap. 
• From 1979-1999, necks are smoothed for "plastemeri" plastic stopper, the bases are molded with "Guerlain - 90 Alcoolique  Made in France - HP." 

• Mould #15221 = 50cc/50ml/1.7 oz - 11cm/4.33" (1936-1950) 
• Mould #20619 = 64cc/64ml/2.16 oz - 12.5cm/4.92" (1972-1979) changed 60ml 
• Mould #15223 = 100cc/100ml/3.4 oz - 14.6cm/5.75" (1936-1999) 
• Mould #15225 = 200cc/200ml/6.7 oz - 18.5cm/7.28" (1936-1999) 
• 400cc/400ml/13.5 oz -9.5" (1936-1972) 
• Mould #15227 = 500cc/500ml/16.9 oz - 24.3cm/9.57" (1936) 
• Mould #15229 = 1 liter/1000ml - 30cm/11.81" (1936) 
• 2 liter/2000ml - 37.5cm/14.75" (1970) 
• 3 liter/3000ml - 42cm/16.54" (1979) 

Val St Lambert and Momignies Glass Co (Belgium):

• 125cc/125ml/4.2 oz - 16cm/6.3" (1960-1972) base molded "Guerlain - Paris - 90 Alcoolique"

Brosse Glassworks:

• Only one bottle detailed due to lack of information. Bottle stands 25.5cm tall. Neck smoothed for ground glass stopper. Base molded with "Guerlain - 90 Alcoolique - Bottle Made in France - VB"

Stoppers: 

• 1936-1972: ground glass stopper 
• 1972-1979: gold screw-cap stopper 
• 1979-1999: plastic stopper 

Labels:

Since it was used for all of Guerlain's standard colognes, only the central disk of color varied with the names of perfume. 

• Red for Shalimar 
• Yellow for Cachet Jaune 
• Sky Blue for L'Heure Bleue 
• Purple for Ode 
• Pink for Fleur de Feu 
• Navy Blue Vol de Nuit 
• Orange for Chant D'Aromes 
• Emerald Green for Mitsouko
• Burgundy for Jicky 
• Light Aqua for Chamade 
• Turquoise for Parure 
• Sage Green for Chypre 53 
• Black for Liu 
• Between 1972-1979 Shalimar, when in a Montre with a gold cap, had a Navy Blue center.

Bottles:

Scents:

• Cachet Jaune
• Chamade
• Chant d'Aromes
• Chypre 53
• Fol Arome
• Jicky
• Liu
• L’Heure Bleue 
• Mitsouko
• Ode 
• Parure 
• Shalimar
• Sous le Vent
• Vol de Nuit