Fleur de Feu was launched by Guerlain in France in 1948 and in the United States in 1949, marking a moment of renewal and celebration in the aftermath of World War II. Its name, French for “Flower of Fire” (pronounced "flur duh fuh"), evokes powerful imagery of a phoenix rising from the flames—a symbol of rebirth, resilience, and triumph. Guerlain chose this name to celebrate both the liberation of Paris and the house’s 120th anniversary, making the perfume not only a work of olfactory artistry but also a commemorative emblem of hope, renewal, and enduring elegance. The words conjure images of vibrant blossoms emerging from ashes, suffused with warmth, energy, and passionate beauty, evoking both excitement and emotional uplift.
Created by Jacques Guerlain, Fleur de Feu is classified as an aldehydic floral fragrance, a composition that layers bright, sparkling aldehydes over spicy, opulent florals and the signature Guerlinade accord. This accord—an elegant blend of iris, jasmine, bergamot, rose, vanilla, tonka bean, and soft woods—adds warmth, depth, and complexity, acting as a harmonious base that binds the fiery florals into a cohesive whole. Women of the late 1940s, emerging from the austerity and hardship of wartime, would have embraced Fleur de Feu as a perfume of liberation and indulgence: bold yet elegant, celebratory yet intimate. Its name and scent together suggest empowerment and vitality, capturing the mood of a society eager to reclaim joy, style, and beauty.
The period following World War II, often referred to as the post-war era, was a time of reconstruction, renewed optimism, and cultural resurgence. In fashion, Christian Dior’s New Look of 1947 had just revolutionized style, emphasizing femininity, elegance, and lavishness after years of wartime austerity. Perfume trends followed suit, favoring rich, aldehydic florals that combined freshness with luxurious depth. In this context, Fleur de Feu was both on trend and unique: it embraced the aldehydic floral movement popularized by Chanel No. 5, yet its spicy floral heart and the Guerlinade signature accord gave it a distinct Guerlain identity, exuding warmth, sophistication, and a sense of triumphant exuberance.
In scent, Fleur de Feu can be interpreted as a metaphor for the energy and resilience of the time. The aldehydes sparkle like sunlight on flames, the spicy florals suggest a fiery elegance, and the Guerlinade base provides enduring warmth, softening the composition while giving it depth and intimacy. It is a fragrance that celebrates renewal, radiates optimism, and embodies the passionate elegance of post-war Paris—a perfume both historic and timeless, capturing the spirit of its era in every luminous, fiery note.
Fragrance Composition:
What does it smell like? Fleur de Feu by Guerlain is classified as an aldehydic floral fragrance for women. Spicy flowers layered over the Guerlinade accord.
- Top notes: aldehydes, honey, jasmine, bergamot
- Middle notes: jasmine, lily of the valley, rose, ylang ylang, violet, musk, sandalwood, sweet acacia, carnation
- Base notes: musk, heliotrope, tonka bean, vanilla, orris
Scent Profile:
From the very first spray, Fleur de Feu opens with a sparkling brilliance that is both radiant and electrifying. Aldehydes create a luminous, effervescent shimmer, infusing the fragrance with clarity and a sense of airy sophistication, reminiscent of sunlight dancing on delicate petals. Layered with this is honey, offering a soft, gourmand sweetness that adds warmth and richness, subtly balancing the brightness of the aldehydes. Jasmine, likely sourced from Grasse, France, provides a creamy, heady floralcy that feels both opulent and tender, while bergamot from Calabria, Italy, introduces a citrusy brilliance with a slightly green nuance, enhancing the top’s sparkling freshness. Together, these notes evoke an immediate impression of vibrancy, optimism, and radiant femininity, capturing the celebratory spirit of post-war Paris.
As the fragrance develops, the heart unfolds with a bouquet of spicy, floral, and exotic notes. The second layer begins with jasmine again, deepening the floral complexity, accompanied by the delicate, airy green freshness of lily of the valley, which provides a soft, almost dewy elegance. Rose, with its timeless velvet richness, is enhanced by subtle aroma chemicals that prolong its luminosity, while ylang-ylang, often from Madagascar or Comoros, contributes a creamy, slightly tropical floralcy that adds sensual depth. Violet introduces a powdery, slightly green nuance, while musk in the heart softens and ties the florals together, creating a gentle, skin-like intimacy. Sandalwood lends a smooth, woody warmth, while sweet acacia and carnation provide gentle spiciness and a honeyed nuance that complements the aldehydic top notes. Here, the careful use of synthetics—enhancers for jasmine, violet, and musk—ensures that each floral note maintains clarity and longevity, while blending harmoniously with the richness of the composition.
The base notes reveal a warm, lingering, and intimate depth, giving the fragrance its enduring elegance. Musk continues to provide a soft, sensuous veil that envelops the wearer, while heliotrope adds a powdery, almond-like sweetness, evoking nostalgia and comforting refinement. Tonka bean, with its warm, vanilla-almond nuances, reinforces the gourmand undertones, while vanilla enhances the cozy sweetness and longevity of the composition. Orris, derived from the rhizome of the iris plant, provides a sophisticated powdery texture and subtle floral-woody nuance, distinguishing Fleur de Feu’s base from simpler, linear compositions. The interplay of natural extracts with synthetic enhancers—aldehydes, musks, and fixatives—ensures that each layer is luminous, long-lasting, and perfectly balanced, allowing the spicy, floral, and gourmand elements to coexist in harmonious elegance.
Altogether, Fleur de Feu is a masterclass in layered sophistication: the sparkling, aldehydic top notes evoke clarity and celebration; the spicy, floral heart conveys vibrancy, sensuality, and elegance; and the warm, powdery, gourmand base ensures intimacy and enduring presence. It is a fragrance that embodies both triumph and femininity, capturing the emotional resonance of rebirth, the exuberance of post-war Paris, and the timeless artistry of Guerlain, where each note—natural or enhanced—is orchestrated to create a luminous, fiery, and unforgettable bouquet.
The New Yorker, 1950:"Fleur de Feu, a fragrance or rare fascination, combining the delicacy of flowers with the drama of flame in this compelling bouquet. 2/3 oz $14.00."
Scent Profile:
From the very first spray, Fleur de Feu opens with a sparkling brilliance that is both radiant and electrifying. Aldehydes create a luminous, effervescent shimmer, infusing the fragrance with clarity and a sense of airy sophistication, reminiscent of sunlight dancing on delicate petals. Layered with this is honey, offering a soft, gourmand sweetness that adds warmth and richness, subtly balancing the brightness of the aldehydes. Jasmine, likely sourced from Grasse, France, provides a creamy, heady floralcy that feels both opulent and tender, while bergamot from Calabria, Italy, introduces a citrusy brilliance with a slightly green nuance, enhancing the top’s sparkling freshness. Together, these notes evoke an immediate impression of vibrancy, optimism, and radiant femininity, capturing the celebratory spirit of post-war Paris.
As the fragrance develops, the heart unfolds with a bouquet of spicy, floral, and exotic notes. The second layer begins with jasmine again, deepening the floral complexity, accompanied by the delicate, airy green freshness of lily of the valley, which provides a soft, almost dewy elegance. Rose, with its timeless velvet richness, is enhanced by subtle aroma chemicals that prolong its luminosity, while ylang-ylang, often from Madagascar or Comoros, contributes a creamy, slightly tropical floralcy that adds sensual depth. Violet introduces a powdery, slightly green nuance, while musk in the heart softens and ties the florals together, creating a gentle, skin-like intimacy. Sandalwood lends a smooth, woody warmth, while sweet acacia and carnation provide gentle spiciness and a honeyed nuance that complements the aldehydic top notes. Here, the careful use of synthetics—enhancers for jasmine, violet, and musk—ensures that each floral note maintains clarity and longevity, while blending harmoniously with the richness of the composition.
The base notes reveal a warm, lingering, and intimate depth, giving the fragrance its enduring elegance. Musk continues to provide a soft, sensuous veil that envelops the wearer, while heliotrope adds a powdery, almond-like sweetness, evoking nostalgia and comforting refinement. Tonka bean, with its warm, vanilla-almond nuances, reinforces the gourmand undertones, while vanilla enhances the cozy sweetness and longevity of the composition. Orris, derived from the rhizome of the iris plant, provides a sophisticated powdery texture and subtle floral-woody nuance, distinguishing Fleur de Feu’s base from simpler, linear compositions. The interplay of natural extracts with synthetic enhancers—aldehydes, musks, and fixatives—ensures that each layer is luminous, long-lasting, and perfectly balanced, allowing the spicy, floral, and gourmand elements to coexist in harmonious elegance.
Altogether, Fleur de Feu is a masterclass in layered sophistication: the sparkling, aldehydic top notes evoke clarity and celebration; the spicy, floral heart conveys vibrancy, sensuality, and elegance; and the warm, powdery, gourmand base ensures intimacy and enduring presence. It is a fragrance that embodies both triumph and femininity, capturing the emotional resonance of rebirth, the exuberance of post-war Paris, and the timeless artistry of Guerlain, where each note—natural or enhanced—is orchestrated to create a luminous, fiery, and unforgettable bouquet.
The New Yorker, 1950:
"Fleur de Feu, a fragrance or rare fascination, combining the delicacy of flowers with the drama of flame in this compelling bouquet. 2/3 oz $14.00."
Fleur de Feu retailed for $14, $24 and $45 in 1951.
L'Atlantique, 1952:
"Despite its name exotic name, the latest Guerlain perfume, 'Fleur de Feu' is a delicate flower scent of which someone has said that "it has the freshness of dew, the aroma of a field of flowers in the dawn." It is a perfect scent for the woman who likes alluring subteley instead of strength."
Bottles:
Presented in a variety of formats—including 2½ oz and 4 oz crystal Fleur de Feu bottles, the ‘Capsule’ flacon for lotion vegetale, Quadrilobe and Amphore flacons for parfum, the Goutte flacon for eau de toilette, and the Montre flacon for eau de cologne
Fate of the Fragrance:
Fleur de Feu was launched by Guerlain in 1948, a time of rejuvenation and celebration following the end of World War II. Its vibrant, aldehydic floral composition reflected the optimism and renewed energy of post-war society, offering women a perfume that was both elegant and spirited—a fragrant emblem of liberation and triumph. The name, “Flower of Fire”, conveyed passion, vitality, and the idea of beauty emerging from adversity, resonating deeply with the cultural mood of the era.
The fragrance remained available on the market at least until 1959, demonstrating its continued popularity and relevance over more than a decade. Its enduring appeal can be attributed to the sophisticated interplay of aldehydic brightness, opulent florals, and the warm, powdery Guerlinade accord, which allowed it to stand out in the competitive post-war perfume landscape. Guerlain’s artistry ensured that Fleur de Feu remained a symbol of both elegance and resilience, offering women a sense of empowerment, celebration, and indulgence during a period of social renewal.
The exact date of its discontinuation is unknown, but even after production ceased, Fleur de Feu remained a notable example of Guerlain’s post-war creativity, admired for its fiery elegance, masterful composition, and ability to capture the spirit of an era marked by hope, reconstruction, and renewed joie de vivre.
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