Guerlain Perfumes: Flacon Goutte (Teardrop) c1923-2001

Monday, September 1, 2025

Flacon Goutte (Teardrop) c1923-2001

Guerlain’s Flacon Goutte (Teardrop Bottle), introduced in 1923, became one of the house’s longest-lived standard presentations, remaining in use until 2001. Created by Pochet et du Courval, and later also produced by Saint-Gobain Desjonqueres, the bottle was originally designed to hold only eaux de toilette. Its form was intended as the new standard for Guerlain’s toilet waters, replacing the “flat fancy” bottle of 1890. Elegant yet practical, the design emphasized both refinement and accessibility, a balance that helped cement its enduring presence in the Guerlain line.

The bottle’s most recognizable feature was its frosted glass stopper, cleverly shaped as two interlocking cockle shells. This detail gave the flacon a natural, organic charm while remaining distinctively Guerlain. Early examples bore the famous Étiquette Dauphin, or “Dolphin Label,” which showed two dolphins rendered in a “newsprint” style. This label was reserved exclusively for bottles fitted with ground glass stoppers or with the later “plastemeri” stopper fittings. The dolphin label was used consistently from 1923 until the late 1970s, when it was replaced by a modernized black-and-gold oval label (1980–1987). From 1988 onward, labels disappeared altogether, replaced by silkscreened lettering directly on the bottle.

The stopper system evolved significantly over the decades. From 1923 until 1973, traditional ground glass stoppers were employed. In 1973, Guerlain introduced ground glass stoppers fitted with “plastemeri” plastic dowels to prevent sticking and ensure a secure fit. Between 1980 and 1987, these were replaced with gilded glass screw-on caps, also fitted with plastemeri dowels, reflecting the more glamorous packaging trends of the time. Finally, from 1987 until the bottle’s discontinuation in 2002, Guerlain used simple glass stoppers with plastemeri fittings. These changes illustrate both technological advances in packaging and evolving aesthetic preferences.

The Flacon Goutte was used to present some of Guerlain’s most celebrated fragrances. A 1939 advertisement proudly announced: “Toilet water in an oval bottle with atomizer top is new, $5.” By 1940, the bottle was offered in a $5 size across a wide range of Guerlain’s best-loved perfumes, including Shalimar, L’Heure Bleue, Vol de Nuit, Coque d’Or, Liu, Mitsouko, Sous le Vent, and Jicky. The accessible price point and elegant presentation made these classics available to a broader clientele.

The boxes accompanying the Flacon Goutte also changed over the decades. Initially, the bottles were sold in cardboard boxes decorated with blue bands. These were later replaced by packaging featuring a “coffee bean” motif, and eventually by a striking black-and-white “zigzag” design that reflected mid-century modernist influences. Together, the evolution of the packaging and the bottle itself mirrors Guerlain’s ability to adapt to shifting tastes while preserving the brand’s distinct identity.

Sizes:

Pochet et du Courval:

Mould #20778 = 50cc/50ml/1.7 oz - 8 to 9cm/3.15" to 3.54" (1973)
Mould # 15470 = 100cc/100ml/3.4 oz - 12 to 13cm/4.72" to 5.12" (1938)
Mould # 13513 = 250cc/250ml/8.4 oz - 16 to 17cm/6.3" to 6.69" (1923)
Mould # 13514 = 500cc/500ml/16.9 oz - 20 to 21cm/7.87" to 8.27" (1923)
Mould #13515 = 1 liter - 25 to 26cm/9.84" to 10.24" (1923)

Saint-Gobain Desjonqueres Bottles:

Mould #4458 (plan #21886) = 4ml, sample bottle, base engraved "Guerlain" (1976-1987)
Mould #4840 (plan #71570) = 50ml - 8.9 cm, glass plastemeri stopper (1983-1988)
Mould #4838 (plan #71571) = 100ml - 12.5 cm, glass plastemeri stopper (1983-1994)
Mould #4836 (plan #71572) = 250ml - 16.8 cm, glass plastemeri stopper (1983-1995)

Base of SGD bottles are molded with "Guerlain-Paris- Made in France."

Stoppers: