The Flacon Montre (Watch), introduced in 1936, was one of Guerlain’s most enduring bottle designs, remaining in use until 1999. Created by Pochet et du Courval, the flacon was originally conceived to hold eaux de cologne, first appearing with Cachet Jaune. Its name, Montre, meaning “watch” in French, reflects the circular, compact shape of the bottle, which resembles the form of a pocket watch. Over time, it became a versatile vessel used for an impressive range of Guerlain fragrances, including Shalimar, Mitsouko, Jicky, Fôl Arôme, Chamade, Chant d’Arômes, Liu, L’Heure Bleue, Vol de Nuit, Sous le Vent, Chypre 53, Parure, and many more.
Production of the Flacon Montre involved multiple glassmakers over its long history. Pochet et du Courval, the primary producer, created six moulds. In addition, Belgium’s Val Saint Lambert and Momignies Glass Co. each supplied a mould, while the Brosse glassworks also produced one mould of its own (22.5cm tall). This collaboration across different manufacturers ensured consistent supply as demand for Guerlain’s eaux de cologne increased, particularly in the mid-20th century when lighter, more affordable concentrations of luxury perfumes gained popularity.
A 1950 article highlighted Guerlain’s marketing approach with this bottle: “Guerlain recommends spraying a room with their famous Shalimar eau de cologne. This is a lighter form of their famous perfume. Because it is lighter, it is less expensive and can be used more lavishly.” This quote not only illustrates the practicality of the cologne concentration but also underscores how the Flacon Montre was positioned as both luxurious and accessible, a way for customers to indulge in Guerlain scents on a grander scale.
Originally created for Cachet Jaune in 1936, the Montre bottle quickly became the standard vessel for all Guerlain’s perfumed Eaux de Cologne and was widely exported, cementing its place as one of the house’s most recognizable flacons. Its packaging evolved considerably over the decades: the earliest boxes were blue with simple banding, later replaced by a plain white design, followed by a coffee bean motif, then a striking black-and-white zigzag pattern, and finally, elegant gold boxes. By 1997, the Montre flacon was offered in France in 100ml and 200ml sizes for Shalimar (distinguished by its navy blue label) and Mitsouko. For the export market, Guerlain also produced a 60ml size, most commonly filled with Shalimar, Mitsouko, and Vol de Nuit, extending the bottle’s reach to an international clientele who sought a lighter yet refined form of Guerlain’s iconic perfumes.
Used for over six decades, the Flacon Montre is emblematic of Guerlain’s ability to balance tradition with modern utility. While its design was simple and functional, its longevity and adaptability across a wide range of Guerlain’s iconic fragrances make it an important chapter in the house’s bottle history.
Sizes:
Pochet et du Courval:
- From 1936-1972, necks are smoothed for ground glass stopper, base of bottle molded with "guerlain - 90 Alcoolique - Made in France."
- From 1972-1979, these bottles were made with a threaded neck for the gold screw-cap.
- From 1979-1999, necks are smoothed for "plastemeri" plastic stopper, the bases are molded with "Guerlain - 90 Alcoolique Made in France - HP."
- Mould #15221 = 50cc/50ml/1.7 oz - 11cm/4.33" (1936-1950)
- Mould #20619 = 64cc/64ml/2.16 oz - 12.5cm/4.92" (1972-1979) changed 60ml
- Mould #15223 = 100cc/100ml/3.4 oz - 14.6cm/5.75" (1936-1999)
- Mould #15225 = 200cc/200ml/6.7 oz - 18.5cm/7.28" (1936-1999)
- 400cc/400ml/13.5 oz -9.5" (1936-1972)
- Mould #15227 = 500cc/500ml/16.9 oz - 24.3cm/9.57" (1936)
- Mould #15229 = 1 liter/1000ml - 30cm/11.81" (1936)
- 2 liter/2000ml - 37.5cm/14.75" (1970)
- 3 liter/3000ml - 42cm/16.54" (1979)
Val St Lambert and Momignies Glass Co (Belgium):
- 125cc/125ml/4.2 oz - 16cm/6.3" (1960-1972) base molded "Guerlain - Paris - 90 Alcoolique"
Brosse Glassworks:
- Only one bottle detailed due to lack of information. Bottle stands 25.5cm tall. Neck smoothed for ground glass stopper. Base molded with "Guerlain - 90 Alcoolique - Bottle Made in France - VB"
Stoppers:
- 1936-1972: ground glass stopper
- 1972-1979: gold screw-cap stopper
- 1979-1999: plastic stopper
Labels:
Since it was used for all of Guerlain's standard colognes, only the central disk of color varied with the names of perfume.
- Red for Shalimar
- Yellow for Cachet Jaune
- Sky Blue for L'Heure Bleue
- Purple for Ode
- Pink for Fleur de Feu
- Navy Blue Vol de Nuit
- Orange for Chant D'Aromes
- Emerald Green for Mitsouko
- Burgundy for Jicky
- Light Aqua for Chamade
- Turquoise for Parure
- Sage Green for Chypre 53
- Black for Liu
- Between 1972-1979 Shalimar, when in a Montre with a gold cap, had a Navy Blue center.
Bottles:
Scents:
- Cachet Jaune
- Chamade
- Chant d'Aromes
- Chypre 53
- Fol Arome
- Jicky
- Liu
- L’Heure Bleue
- Mitsouko
- Ode
- Parure
- Shalimar
- Sous le Vent
- Vol de Nuit
