The key ingredient, myrrh, has a long and storied history in perfumery, valued for its warm, balsamic, slightly smoky richness. Extracted primarily as a resin from the Commiphora myrrha tree, sourced from Somalia, Ethiopia, and Oman, myrrh contributes aromatic molecules like curzerene, lindestrene, and furanoeudesma-1,3-diene, which give its deep, resinous, slightly medicinal, and sweetly balsamic character. In perfumery, myrrh is prized for its ability to add weight, longevity, and complexity to compositions, particularly oriental and woody fragrances. It harmonizes beautifully with woody bases and animalic or amber accords, grounding the perfume while simultaneously adding a mystical, ceremonial aura. Modern perfumers, including Thierry Wasser, often enhance natural myrrh with synthetics to increase sillage, longevity, and brightness, subtly emphasizing its warm, resinous sweetness without dulling its natural richness.
Myrrhe & Délires was created during a time when niche and artistic fragrances were gaining visibility, and perfumers were experimenting with unexpected juxtapositions of raw materials. The scent can be imagined as a journey from the first breath of ambered woods and resins, into a heart dominated by the warm, enveloping richness of myrrh, subtly sweetened and softened by lighter floral or spice accents, and resting on a dry, slightly smoky, woody base. Women and men of 2012, influenced by a resurgence of interest in oriental and resinous fragrances, would have found Myrrhe & Délires compelling and sophisticated, an olfactory exploration of decadence and imagination, strikingly different from mass-market floral or fruity perfumes dominating the mainstream.
In context, this fragrance was distinctive for its era, embracing the rare and precious myrrh as the focal point rather than a supporting note, highlighting Guerlain’s commitment to artistic craftsmanship and the modern revival of raw materials as central protagonists. It embodies both tradition and innovation: a modern interpretation of oriental woody resins that invites the wearer into a sensorial experience that is luxurious, imaginative, and unmistakably Guerlain.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? Myrrhe & Delires is classified as a woody oriental fragrance for both women and men, emphasizing rich, resinous, and exotic accords.
- Top notes are bergamot and grapefruit
- Middle notes are osmanthus, jasmine, rose and violet leaf
- Base notes are patchouli, incense, tonka bean, vanilla, myrrh and licorice
Scent Profile:
Myrrhe & Délires by Guerlain is a masterful woody oriental fragrance that envelops the senses with an opulent, resinous tapestry, skillfully balancing tradition and modern artistry. The opening notes are bergamot and grapefruit, both bright and sparkling, immediately creating a sense of lift and lightness. The Calabrian bergamot used in high perfumery is prized for its rich, slightly sweet, and nuanced citrus character, with natural aroma chemicals such as linalyl acetate and limonene providing a crisp, slightly floral freshness. The grapefruit adds a sharper, tangy edge, its naturally occurring nootkatone giving a bitter, juicy nuance that energizes the initial impression, while synthetics can enhance clarity and longevity without dulling the natural vibrancy. Together, these top notes create a luminous, airy introduction that contrasts beautifully with the deep, resinous heart yet foreshadows the warmth to come.
The heart of the fragrance blooms with osmanthus, jasmine, rose, and violet leaf, forming a floral symphony with a delicately exotic twist. Osmanthus, traditionally sourced from China, is prized for its apricot-like nuances, contributed by compounds such as beta-ionone and alpha-ionone, giving a soft fruity-floral warmth. Jasmine, often harvested in Grasse, France, carries a lush, narcotic richness, its naturally occurring indole and benzyl acetate adding depth and sensuality. Rose, particularly from Grasse, is renowned for its complexity, with citronellol, geraniol, and nerol creating a luminous, velvety floral heart. Violet leaf adds a green, slightly aquatic freshness that lifts the bouquet, its aldehydic and phenolic molecules creating a subtle, crisp contrast. In this composition, synthetics may enhance the floral purity, extending the delicate nuances and providing a silky, modern refinement that lets each flower shine without overpowering the others.
The base is a grounding blend of patchouli, incense, tonka bean, vanilla, myrrh, and licorice, forming a rich, enveloping foundation that lingers on the skin. Patchouli, often sourced from Indonesia, brings earthy, balsamic warmth, with patchoulol and other sesquiterpenes giving a sophisticated depth. Incense, derived from frankincense resin, adds a smoky, meditative aura, its alpha-pinene and limonene providing both lift and complexity. Tonka bean, native to South America, contributes its warm, sweet notes of coumarin, evoking soft vanilla and almond facets. Vanilla and myrrh enrich the base further—vanilla’s vanillin offering creamy sweetness, and myrrh, from Commiphora trees of Somalia and Ethiopia, providing a resinous, balsamic, slightly spicy warmth. Licorice adds an unexpected aromatic twist, its sweet, slightly anisic profile heightening the gourmand complexity. Synthetics in the base—such as enhanced vanillin or labdanum derivatives—serve to amplify longevity, smooth transitions, and maintain clarity, letting the richness of the resins and woods emerge without heaviness.
Experiencing Myrrhe & Délires firsthand is like walking through an aromatic world where brightness and depth coexist: citrus top notes sparkle like morning light, floral heart notes bloom with exotic elegance, and the resinous, gourmand base creates a lingering trail that is at once luxurious, mysterious, and sensual. Every ingredient, both natural and enhanced synthetically, contributes to a layered narrative, making this a unisex fragrance that celebrates the bold richness of oriental perfumery while honoring Guerlain’s artistry and heritage.
Fate of the Fragrance:
Discontinued in 2015.
