Crème à la Fraise Pour le Teint, introduced around 1880, was an elegant facial preparation by Guerlain, often translated as “Strawberry Cream for the Foundation.” Housed in a white porcelain jar with a delicate strawberry-shaped finial on the lid, the cream was not only functional but visually charming. The jar itself bore the Guerlain emblem of the “woman with flags”, and inscriptions including “Guerlain Perfumer Patented SGDG” and the boutique address, “Rue de la Paix No. 15.” Crafted by A. Pillivuyt Foecy in France, the pot measured 2.36 inches in diameter, reflecting the careful attention to both design and luxury presentation that Guerlain championed in the 19th century.
The cream’s purpose was to moisturize and freshen the complexion. A small amount massaged onto the face provided hydration while imparting a soft, natural tint, making it a precursor to modern foundation creams. Its rich, emollient composition supported the skin’s barrier while offering a subtly fragrant, sensory experience.
The ingredients reveal both the practical and indulgent qualities of 19th-century cosmetics. Sweet almond oil served as the base, a gentle, nourishing oil rich in fatty acids and vitamin E, ideal for softening and protecting delicate facial skin. Water provided moisture, helping the cream spread easily, while white wax and spermaceti (a wax derived from sperm whales) added structure, creating a smooth, thick consistency that could adhere to the skin evenly. Lanolin, extracted from sheep’s wool, offered additional emollience and water-retaining properties, making the cream protective and soothing.
The fragrant elements elevated the cream into a luxurious ritual. Ripe strawberries contributed a light, sweet aroma and perhaps mild astringent properties. Tincture of benzoin, a resin, imparted a warm, balsamic note while providing mild antiseptic benefits. Oil of lemon and oil of neroli added bright, fresh citrus-floral accents, which lifted the sensory profile and subtly refreshed the complexion.
From a dermatological perspective, most ingredients were benign and nourishing for the skin. Almond oil, lanolin, and spermaceti were soothing and protective, while the waxes allowed the cream to remain in place without heavy occlusion. Benzoin and essential oils were used sparingly, adding fragrance and mild antiseptic qualities, though in higher concentrations they could cause irritation—fortunately, formulations of this period were balanced to avoid harshness.
In practice, Crème à la Fraise would have been applied before powder or other cosmetics, serving as both a moisturizer and a light tint to even out the complexion. Its texture, fragrance, and subtle color would have conveyed elegance, freshness, and sophistication to the user, reflecting the luxury and artistry of Guerlain’s 19th-century cosmetic traditions.
