Moskovskaia Slava was created by Pierre-François Pascal Guerlain in the 1880s as a tribute to Russian nobility, with its first presentation at the Moscow Exhibition. Commissioned by order of Tsar Alexander III, the fragrance carried immense symbolic weight: it was not simply a perfume, but an olfactory homage to imperial Russia, designed to appeal to the tastes of the Russian Grand Duke. This commission was of great importance to Guerlain, as it elevated the house’s prestige on an international stage and demonstrated the brand’s ability to adapt its art to the identity and grandeur of another nation. Officially trademarked in 1889, Moskovskaia Slava confirmed Guerlain’s place among the elite perfumers of Europe, reinforcing its reputation as the favored house of aristocrats and sovereigns.
The name Moskovskaia Slava is Russian (Московская Слава) and translates to “Glory of Moscow.” It is pronounced "Moss-KOFF-ska-ya SLAH-va". The words themselves conjure a sense of solemn majesty, grandeur, and patriotic pride, evoking images of glittering onion-domed cathedrals, snow-covered forests, and the ceremonial pageantry of the Russian court. To European audiences of the time, the name suggested not only imperial strength but also a sense of exoticism and cultural richness tied to Russia’s identity as a vast and powerful empire.
The late 19th century was the Belle Époque, an era marked by luxury, artistic innovation, and an obsession with refinement in both fashion and society. Perfume during this time was evolving rapidly: formulas became more complex, and perfumers were beginning to explore bolder, more atmospheric compositions. Against this backdrop, Moskovskaia Slava stood out for its dramatic character, composed of resinous, smoky, and woody accords that evoked the majesty of Russian landscapes and the grandeur of aristocratic life. While French perfumes of the period often favored florals or delicate citrus bouquets, Guerlain’s Russian-inspired fragrance suggested power and endurance, making it distinctive among contemporary offerings.
For men and women of the period, a perfume named Moskovskaia Slava would have suggested dignity, mystery, and sophistication. It was a name steeped in both cultural symbolism and imperial allure, appealing to those who admired Russian opulence and strength. Interpreted in scent, Moskovskaia Slava likely evoked dense forests of pine and cedar, the warmth of resins and amber, and the faint smokiness of a hearth fire—an olfactory impression of grandeur and resilience.
Classified most likely as a woody fougère, the fragrance reflected the requirements of the Russian Grand Duke, emphasizing forest-like aromas with layers of smoky richness. In this sense, Guerlain created something unique for its time: while rooted in the broader fougère trend that had become fashionable since the creation of Fougère Royale (1882), Moskovskaia Slava distinguished itself by leaning heavily into resinous, woody, and smoky tonalities. The result was a composition that not only suited Russian tastes but also reinforced Guerlain’s skill in crafting perfumes that transcended borders, capturing the spirit of a nation in a bottle.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? Moskovskaia Slava is classified as a woody fougere fragrance for men, it was based on the requirements of the Russian Grand Duke, and the modulation exudes fragrant forests and rich woody flavor.
- Top notes: green leafy notes, bergamot, galbanum
- Middle notes: fern, lavender, geranium, rosewood, patchouli, opoponax
- Base notes: birch tar, Russian leather, oakmoss, sandalwood, cedar, pine, Tibetan musk, musk ambrette, ambergris, castoreum, civet, vanilla, tonka bean, vetiver, labdanum, styrax
Scent Profile:
To imagine Moskovskaia Slava is to step into the heart of an imperial Russian forest at dusk, where the air is heavy with green resin, smoke, and animal warmth. This woody fougère, composed for the Russian Grand Duke, is built not on dainty florals but on the grandeur of earth, wood, and leather, each note carefully chosen to reflect both power and refinement.
It opens with a striking green freshness, an impression of crushed leaves and forest canopy. The bergamot, sourced from Calabria, Italy, provides its luminous, sparkling citrus edge—bright yet rounded, softening the bitterness of the galbanum, a resin from Persia with its piercingly green, almost metallic sharpness. Galbanum contributes cis-3-hexenol molecules, the very essence of freshly mown grass, giving the fragrance a crisp and slightly wild character. Together, these top notes conjure the first breath of cool forest air, a freshness tempered by the darker, almost humid feel of foliage.
The heart unfolds with the classic fougère interplay. Fern notes, an abstraction in perfumery, are built on coumarin and aromatic herbs, suggesting shaded glens and damp moss. Lavender, likely French, adds a camphoraceous, herbaceous lift that balances strength with elegance, while geranium contributes a rosy, minty nuance that sharpens the fougère spine. Rosewood, with its soapy floral-woody character, brings refinement, while patchouli, sourced from Indonesia, anchors the heart with earthy, camphorous depth. The opoponax, or sweet myrrh from Somalia, adds a honeyed resinous glow, softening the herbal sharpness into something richer and more velvety.
At the base, the perfume becomes resolutely Russian. Birch tar and Russian leather dominate, their smoky, tarred intensity evoking saddles, polished boots, and the hearth fire of a great estate. Oakmoss, with its salty, inky dampness, weaves into sandalwood from Mysore, whose creamy, milky smoothness tempers the harsher resins. Cedar and pine lend their crisp, resinous bite—pine especially resonant with Russian landscapes. Into this forest floor of woods and smoke steps a bestiary of animalics: Tibetan musk (once from deer, now a memory), musk ambrette (plant-derived, musky and slightly powdery), ambergris with its salty, marine warmth, castoreum from beaver lending leathery depth, and civet, adding a shadowy, sensual purr. These elements, while potent, are softened by vanilla and tonka bean—both rich in coumarin, imparting almond-sweet, hay-like tones that balance the feral edge. Vetiver from Haiti introduces dry, smoky grassiness, while labdanum contributes balsamic, ambery depth, its leathery sweetness resonating with styrax, which adds a touch of smoky, resinous spice.
The overall impression is not of a polite salon fragrance but of the Russian wilderness tamed and refined—a symphony of woods, resins, smoke, and musk, softened by gentle touches of sweetness. It is bold, commanding, and enduring, a fragrance that mirrors the power and dignity of its patron. In this composition, the natural is enhanced by synthetics: coumarin gives the fern accord body and longevity, while the abstraction of musk (through ambrette and ambergris effects) expands what nature could provide. The result is a scent that feels at once raw and imperial, echoing both the grandeur of Russia’s forests and the sophistication of Guerlain’s artistry.
Bottles:
Presented in the Carre flacon.
Fate of the Fragrance:
Discontinued, date unknown.
