Guerlain’s Lait de Roses, or “Milk of Roses,” was a toilet preparation for the skin, a type of cosmetic lotion designed to soften, brighten, and lightly perfume the complexion. Around 1910, it was offered in a refined pressed glass bottle crafted by Pochet et du Courval, a house long associated with Guerlain’s most elegant presentations. The bottle itself was an oval cylindrical form, its rounded belly divided into ten panels that caught and refracted the light. Standing 18 cm tall, it was closed with a simple cork stopper and finished with a richly baroque-styled label, its ornate design underscoring Guerlain’s reputation for marrying artistry with practicality.
The formula for Lait de Roses was both scientific and sensorial, embodying the fin-de-siècle balance between pharmacology and beauty. Salicylic acid, derived from willow bark, was included for its mild exfoliating and clarifying effects—it helped remove dull surface cells and keep the complexion smooth. Benzoic acid, often used as a preservative, also contributed to its cleansing qualities. Both were considered effective yet gentle enough for regular cosmetic use, though overuse of salicylic acid could cause dryness in sensitive skin.
The base of the preparation was rose water and glycerin, a soothing and hydrating combination. Rose water, long prized for its calming and toning effects, also left a delicate fragrance on the skin, while glycerin drew in moisture, leaving the complexion supple. To this were added alcohol and a suite of balsamic tinctures—Peru balsam, storax, and benzoin—all known for their antiseptic and healing properties. These resinous ingredients not only preserved the lotion but also created a subtle warmth in its fragrance, a soft backdrop for the floral oils.
To elevate the scent, Guerlain blended in a constellation of precious essential oils: rose, bergamot, neroli, orris, jasmine, and musk. Each lent its own nuance: rose for romantic powdery softness, bergamot for brightness, neroli for its citrus-floral freshness, orris root for its velvety, violet-like delicacy, jasmine for voluptuous sensuality, and musk for a lingering depth. Coumarin, discovered in tonka beans in the 19th century, added a sweet hay-like note that would have made the composition feel rounded and soft, while a solution of carmine imparted a gentle tint to the lotion, giving it a faint rosy cast that made it look as luxurious as it smelled.
Taken together, Lait de Roses was intended not only as a skin beautifier but also as a protective tonic, soothing minor irritations, perfuming the skin, and preparing it for powder or other cosmetics. By the standards of its time, the formula was considered benign and beneficial, a far cry from harsher skin treatments of earlier decades that often contained lead or mercury. Though today certain ingredients like musk (then natural, now banned in perfumery for ethical reasons) or balsams could pose allergenic risks, in its era Lait de Roses was seen as both safe and highly refined—a perfect example of Guerlain’s blending of dermatological care with perfumed luxury.
