To mark the centenary of L’Heure Bleue in 2012, Guerlain unveiled an exquisite limited-edition collector’s set that paid homage to this iconic fragrance. The set featured four 30 ml bottles: a bottle of the classic Parfum alongside three entirely new interpretations crafted by Thierry Wasser, each offering a contemporary vision of L’Heure Bleue. The labels on the three interpretations show clock hands, each one poised at the different times of the day. These treasures were presented in a sumptuous blue velvet case, meticulously adorned with silver pearl embroidery spelling out the Guerlain name, executed by the legendary Lesage Atelier de Broderie, renowned for its couture craftsmanship.
The original L’Heure Bleue, created by Jacques Guerlain in 1912, drew its inspiration from a quiet walk along the Seine at dusk. He recalled the intensity of the deep blue sky as the sun set over Paris, a moment so poignant that he felt it could only be captured in perfume. True to its origins, the 2012 interpretations maintain the powdery, elegant soul of the original, yet each conveys a distinct expression. The classic top notes of citrus and orange blossom open the fragrance with a fresh, luminous clarity. The heart, composed of iris and heliotrope, imparts soft floral depth, while the base—white musk and powdery undertones—wraps the scent in a comforting, enduring warmth.
Thierry Wasser’s reinterpretations offer a temporal journey through a day:
- L’Aurore (Dawn) captures the first light of morning with an Eau de Toilette that emphasizes the airy, sparkling top notes, creating a sense of freshness and vitality.
- Le Zénith (Zenith), an Eau de Parfum, focuses on the heart notes, bringing the powdery floral richness of L’Heure Bleue into full bloom, evoking the warmth and intensity of midday.
- Le Crépuscule (Dusk), inspired by the Extract, elevates the base notes, revealing the fragrance’s secret, mysterious core as night falls, with a tantalizing, intimate sillage.
While each of the three new creations shares a connection to the original, they explore different facets of the perfume: L’Aurore is light and luminous, Le Zénith is powdery and expansive, and Le Crépuscule is rich and evocative. Together, they form a narrative of the day, allowing the wearer to experience L’Heure Bleue in three complementary moods.
The collaboration with Maison Lesage elevated the collector’s set to a work of art. The atelier’s masterful embroidery transformed the blue velvet case into a tactile and visual masterpiece, with silver faceted beads forming the Guerlain logo, linked delicately with fine chains. The set, featuring four elegantly colored bottles, was offered as a true luxury collector’s item, priced at £3,000, celebrating 100 years of one of Guerlain’s most poetic and enduring creations. Only 140 examples were available worldwide.
L'Heure Bleue Parfum 2012:
L'Heure Bleue Parfum 2012: (This reworked version by Thierry Wasser was added to the Les Parisiennes line in 2013.
- Top notes: linalool, limonene, lemon, citronellol, citral, anise, bergamot, neroli, coriander
- Middle notes: heliotrope, farnesol, carnation, clove, isoeugenol, benzyl cinnamate, cinnamal, hydroxycitronellal, rose, geraniol, violet, alpha-isomethyl ionone, jasmine, ylang ylang, orchid, benzyl benzoate, iris
- Base notes: sandalwood, tonka bean, coumarin, eugenol, benzyl salicylate, benzyl alcohol, benzoin, vanilla, vetiver, musk
Scent Profile:
The opening of L’Heure Bleue Parfum 2012 is a sparkling, intricate tapestry of citrus, spice, and aromatic nuances. Linalool wafts immediately, offering a soft, floral sweetness reminiscent of freshly bloomed flowers, while limonene adds a bright, zesty lift that complements the lively lemon and bergamot, sourced perhaps from Calabria, Italy, prized for its intensely fresh, slightly green, and aromatic character. The bitter-sweet nuances of citronellol and citral contribute a rounded, almost sparkling citrusy-green facet, enhancing the brightness while adding complexity. Exotic touches emerge with neroli, harvested from the blossoms of bitter orange trees, whose delicate, luminous floral aroma is at once heady and airy, and coriander, whose warm, slightly spicy, and herbal facets give the opening an unexpected piquancy. A hint of anise provides a whisper of licorice-like freshness, adding to the top’s playful, luminous energy. Together, these notes create a refined, sparkling introduction—a prelude to the floral heart that follows.
At the heart, the fragrance blossoms into a full, powdery bouquet of flowers and spices. Heliotrope lends a soft, almond-like sweetness, while carnation, clove, and isoeugenol inject a gently spiced warmth. The floral complexity deepens with rose and geraniol, evoking the classic elegance of Guerlain’s signature bouquets, while violet, jasmine, ylang-ylang, orchid, and iris provide a layered, opulent floral richness. Several synthetic aroma chemicals—including farnesol, alpha-isomethyl ionone, hydroxycitronellal, and benzyl cinnamate—work in concert with the natural essences, subtly enhancing facets such as powderiness, brightness, and floral radiance. Benzyl benzoate and cinnamal reinforce the warm, slightly sweet and cinnamon-like spiciness, creating a heart that is simultaneously tender, heady, and profoundly elegant. The result is a floral symphony that is soft yet enduring, full of nuance and refinement, evoking the delicate powdery haze of twilight—the very inspiration of L’Heure Bleue.
The base unfolds with warmth, depth, and sensuality, leaving a lingering trail that is both comforting and intoxicating. Sandalwood provides a creamy, woody richness, while tonka bean and coumarin add a soft, almond-like gourmand undertone, sweetened subtly by vanilla. Benzoin, eugenol, benzyl salicylate, and benzyl alcohol contribute balsamic warmth, gentle spice, and subtle floral echoes from the heart, rounding the composition into a smooth, enveloping finish. Earthy vetiver lends depth and structure, while musks enhance the skin-like softness and lasting presence of the perfume. Together, these base notes anchor the floral and citrus heart with an intimate, almost powdery warmth that recalls a quiet evening in Paris at dusk—the very moment Jacques Guerlain sought to capture over a century ago.
L’Heure Bleue Parfum 2012 is a masterclass in layering: a sparkling, aromatic opening gives way to a heady, powdery floral heart, which gradually settles into a warm, enveloping base. Each ingredient, whether natural or enhanced with subtle synthetics, is meticulously balanced to convey elegance, complexity, and the timeless romanticism that has defined L’Heure Bleue for more than a century.
L'Aurore:
L'Aurore: Eau de Toilette, focuses on sparkling citrus and orange blossom
- Top notes: linalool, limonene, citronellol, geraniol, citral, orange blossom
- Middle notes: heliotrope, farnesol, hydroxycitronellal, alpha-isomethyl ionone, hexyl cinnamal, isoeugenol, eugenol, benzyl alcohol, iris
- Base notes: amyl cinnamate, benzyl salicylate, coumarin, benzyl benzoate, white musk
Scent Profile:
L’Aurore opens with a luminous, sparkling citrus burst, immediately awakening the senses. The linalool introduces a soft floral sweetness that hints at freshly blossomed petals, while limonene provides a bright, effervescent lift that accentuates the crispness of citronellol and citral, creating a radiant, zesty clarity. The citrus notes are further enriched by geraniol, whose rosy, slightly green facets add depth, bridging the transition to the more floral elements. Orange blossom, with its delicate, sun-drenched aroma, imbues the top with a luminous sweetness, evoking the soft glow of early morning light and the gentle warmth of the rising sun. When sourced from southern Mediterranean regions such as Spain or Tunisia, orange blossom possesses a particularly creamy, honeyed nuance that distinguishes it from other varieties, enhancing the freshness while lending elegance and refinement.
In the heart, the fragrance reveals a powdery, soft floral complexity. Heliotrope adds an almond-like, lightly vanilla sweetness, while iris introduces a refined, powdery floral elegance. The heart is enriched with a series of aroma chemicals that enhance and stabilize the natural ingredients: farnesol lends a subtle floral glow, hydroxycitronellal and alpha-isomethyl ionone amplify the powdery, violet-like facets, while hexyl cinnamal, isoeugenol, eugenol, and benzyl alcohol add layers of warmth, spicy nuance, and soft floral resonance. This interplay creates a heart that is airy yet voluptuous, bridging the sparkling brightness of the citrus top with the gentle sweetness and warmth of the base. The result is a floral composition that feels both fresh and comforting, like the soft light of dawn filtering through a dewy garden.
The base unfolds with a smooth, lingering warmth that grounds the fragrance and extends its sillage. Amyl cinnamate adds a soft, creamy sweetness reminiscent of lightly spiced pastries, while benzyl salicylate and benzyl benzoate provide subtle balsamic warmth and gentle floral depth. Coumarin contributes a tender, hay-like sweetness that resonates beautifully with the powdery floral heart, while white musk envelops the composition in a soft, skin-like intimacy, giving it lasting elegance and comfort. Together, these elements create a base that feels cozy yet radiant, emphasizing the early-morning freshness of the top notes while allowing the floral heart to glow gracefully over time.
L’Aurore is, in every sense, a fragrance that evokes the sparkling clarity of dawn. Each ingredient, whether natural or enhanced by aroma chemicals, is meticulously balanced to convey brightness, freshness, and gentle powdery warmth. The result is a fragrance that captures the fleeting beauty of morning light, offering an uplifting yet intimate sensory experience that feels elegant, airy, and luminous.
Le Zenith:
Le Zenith: Eau de Parfum, a warm oriental blending of orange blossom and iris.
- Top notes: linalool, limonene, citronellol, geraniol, citral, orange blossom
- Middle notes: heliotrope, farnesol, hydroxycitronellal, amyl cinnamal, alpha-isomethyl ionone, hexyl cinnamal, isoeugenol, eugenol, benzyl alcohol, iris
- Base notes: benzyl salicylate, coumarin, white musk
Scent Profile:
Le Zénith opens with a luminous, radiant top that immediately awakens the senses. Linalool offers a gentle floral sweetness, soft and inviting, while limonene provides a sparkling, effervescent brightness reminiscent of freshly zested citrus. The delicate citronellol adds a green, slightly rosy nuance, complementing geraniol, which brings a refined, almost dewy rose-like facet. Citral, with its clean lemony sharpness, sharpens the initial lift, creating a bright, airy introduction that feels almost like sunlight filtering through morning mist. At the heart of this brilliance lies orange blossom, traditionally harvested from the sun-soaked groves of southern Spain or Tunisia, prized for its luminous, creamy, and honeyed floral aroma. The essence feels warm yet fresh, its sparkling facets perfectly bridging the initial citrus notes with the floral heart to come.
As the fragrance unfolds, the heart reveals a soft, powdery warmth. Heliotrope lends a tender almond-like sweetness, while iris contributes a velvety, powdery elegance, grounding the florals in a refined, sophisticated texture. The composition is enriched with aroma chemicals that enhance both depth and longevity: farnesol brings a gentle floral glow, hydroxycitronellal emphasizes the powdery, slightly green facets, and amyl cinnamal and hexyl cinnamal introduce a delicate, sweet-spicy nuance reminiscent of lightly sugared petals. Alpha-isomethyl ionone adds a violet-like softness, while isoeugenol, eugenol, and benzyl alcohol provide subtle warmth, spicy floral echoes, and a nuanced richness that makes the heart both creamy and enveloping. The interplay between these ingredients results in a middle that feels plush, radiant, and opulent, balancing the sparkling top with the gentle warmth of the base.
The base of Le Zénith settles into a soft, comforting trail that prolongs the fragrance’s luminous intimacy. Benzyl salicylate contributes a gentle floral balsamic warmth, while coumarin adds a subtle, hay-like sweetness that resonates beautifully with the powdery floral heart. Finally, white musk wraps the composition in a delicate, skin-like softness, lending lasting presence without overwhelming the senses. The base is intimate and elegant, harmonizing perfectly with the radiant top and powdery heart, creating a fragrance that is simultaneously warm, sophisticated, and inviting.
Le Zénith is an expression of mid-day radiance in olfactory form. Each note—natural or synthetically enhanced—is carefully layered to create a luminous, powdery floral experience. The sparkling citrus top conveys energy, the powdery heart provides elegance, and the soft, musky base offers warmth and intimacy. The overall effect is a fragrance that feels like sunlight captured in a bottle: radiant, comforting, and exquisitely refined.
Le Crepuscule:
Le Crepuscule: Extrait de Parfum, emphasises its velvety base notes.
- Top notes: linalool, limonene, citronellol, geraniol, citral, orange blossom
- Middle notes: heliotrope, farnesol, hydroxycitronellal, amyl cinnamal, alpha-isomethyl ionone, hexyl cinnamal, isoeugenol, eugenol, benzyl alcohol, iris
- Base notes: benzyl salicylate, benzyl benzoate, coumarin, white musk
Scent Profile:
Le Crépuscule opens with a delicate interplay of bright, luminous citrus and tender floral nuances. Linalool first reaches the senses with its soft, floral sweetness, evoking freshly cut petals, while limonene delivers a sparkling, almost effervescent clarity that lifts the fragrance like the last rays of a setting sun. Citronellol contributes a subtly green, rosy freshness, and geraniol deepens this with a more pronounced rose-like facet, adding a natural elegance. Citral provides a sharp, sunny lemon note, balancing the richer florals and enhancing the sparkling lift. At the forefront, orange blossom—often sourced from southern Spain or Tunisia—is luminous and creamy, with honeyed undertones and a slightly green nuance that distinguishes it from varieties grown in other regions, creating a vibrant yet soft floral opening that perfectly mirrors the gentle transition from day to dusk.
As the fragrance evolves, the heart reveals a rich, powdery floral complexity. Heliotrope introduces a tender, almond-like sweetness, while iris adds a velvety, powdery depth. Aroma chemicals such as farnesol subtly heighten the floral luminosity, hydroxycitronellal emphasizes freshness with a slightly green, airy sweetness, and amyl cinnamal and hexyl cinnamal lend a lightly spiced, sweet nuance, reminiscent of sugared petals. Alpha-isomethyl ionone reinforces the violet-like powderiness, while isoeugenol, eugenol, and benzyl alcohol provide gentle warmth, spiciness, and depth, giving the heart a luxurious, enveloping character. The result is a plush, radiant middle that bridges the sparkling brightness of the top with the indulgent warmth of the base, reflecting the rich, contemplative mood of twilight.
The base is where Le Crépuscule truly expresses its intimate, velvety nature. Benzyl salicylate brings a subtle floral balsamic warmth, while benzyl benzoate adds smooth, resinous depth. Coumarin contributes a soft, hay-like sweetness, echoing the powdery floral heart, and white musk wraps the fragrance in a gentle, skin-like veil that lingers with understated elegance. This velvety base emphasizes the evening’s calm and warmth, letting the brighter notes from earlier in the composition fade into a comforting, intimate embrace.
Le Crépuscule is a masterful exploration of twilight captured in scent. Each note—natural or enhanced by aroma chemicals—is balanced to evoke a seamless transition from the sparkling light of day to the soft, velvety calm of dusk. The citrus and floral top creates an initial lift, the powdery floral heart conveys richness and refinement, and the warm, musky base leaves a long-lasting, intimate trail. The overall effect is a fragrance that feels contemplative, luxurious, and timeless, perfectly embodying the serene, reflective beauty of the evening.
