Showing posts with label Rodomel c1892. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Rodomel c1892. Show all posts

Sunday, September 28, 2025

Rodomel c1892

Rodomel by Guerlain, launched in 1892, is a fragrance whose very name reveals its inspiration. The word Rodomel derives from the Greek rhodon (rose) and mel (honey), literally meaning honey of roses. It can be pronounced "ROH-doe-mel". The name was also used interchangeably as Miel Rosat or Miel Rosada, referring to the old apothecary preparation of red rose juice blended with honey—an elixir known for its sweetness, soothing qualities, and its romantic, almost medicinal association with beauty and well-being. By choosing this name, Guerlain not only evoked a poetic image of roses steeped in honey but also connected the perfume to a deep tradition of natural remedies, confections, and perfumed syrups once prized in both medicine and gastronomy.

The word Rodomel carries with it images of lush rose gardens at the height of bloom, petals glistening with morning dew and sweetness thickened by golden honey. Emotionally, it suggests indulgence and intimacy—a fragrance meant to envelop the wearer in warmth and tenderness, at once floral and gourmand. It feels restorative, like a luxurious comfort, blending sensual pleasure with the natural beauty of roses.

The perfume emerged in the closing years of the Belle Époque, a period marked by optimism, artistic flourish, and social refinement in France and across Europe. In 1892, fashions were dominated by structured gowns, corsetry, and elaborate embellishments, but there was also a shift toward more delicate and feminine aesthetics in both dress and personal adornment. Perfume was an essential part of a woman’s toilette, with florals reigning supreme. Yet, the combination of rose and honey stood out as both exotic and familiar—a bridge between the edible and the aromatic, the natural and the luxurious.

Women of the time would have found Rodomel charming and comforting, a fragrance that not only underscored their femininity but also carried the connotations of health and vitality embedded in the idea of honeyed roses. To wear a perfume named Rodomel was to embrace a sweet, almost nectar-like aura, as if one carried the essence of a rose garden made liquid.

In scent, Rodomel would be interpreted as a sweet floral oriental: the lushness of red roses softened and deepened by the golden warmth of honey, likely accented with balsamic undertones to give it richness and longevity. While rose soliflores and floral bouquets were abundant during this period, Guerlain’s Rodomel stood apart by layering the natural delicacy of the rose with gourmand sweetness—an early example of the house’s daring in creating multi-faceted perfumes that blurred the boundaries between flower, spice, and indulgent food notes. In this way, Rodomel aligned with the floral trends of the 19th century, but also hinted at the more opulent and oriental directions that perfumery would explore in the decades to come.


Parfums Préparés par Condensation:


Rodomel held a prominent place within Guerlain’s celebrated “Parfums Préparés par Condensation” series, a collection that highlighted the house’s artistry, technical innovation, and dedication to quality. This curated range of fragrances was renowned for originality, refinement, and character, with each perfume designed to convey a distinct personality and lasting impression. The phrase “Parfums Préparés par Condensation” translates literally as “Perfumes Prepared by Condensation,” a reference to the advanced extraction techniques used at the time—most notably steam distillation. In this process, botanical material such as petals or herbs was exposed to steam, causing its volatile aromatic compounds to vaporize. These vapors were then cooled and condensed, producing concentrated aromatic essences. Compared with earlier methods such as enfleurage or maceration, which relied on fat or alcohol to absorb fragrance, condensation captured a truer, purer expression of raw materials. This not only preserved delicate nuances of scent but also enhanced both the richness and longevity of the perfume.

For Guerlain, to label a fragrance as part of this series was to assert both technical mastery and olfactory sophistication. It communicated to consumers that these perfumes were crafted with precision and innovation, blending artistry with science. Within the series, every composition was described with carefully chosen terms that reflected its unique personality. Le Jardin de Mon Curé was praised as flowery, persistent, and original. Belle France carried a fresh yet enduring aroma, while Bouquet Mademoiselle was noted for its suave, graceful charm. Cyprisine was considered highly accentué, emphasizing particular notes for a strikingly memorable effect. Dix Pétales de Roses was described as fresh, flowery, and smooth, while Gavotte and Grande Maréchale were celebrated for their originality and lasting presence.

Other members of the series leaned toward sweetness and delicacy. Paris Nouveau and Rodomel both highlighted sweet, flowery tones, blending charm with endurance. Tsao-Ko was immediately recognizable for its strongly accentuated character, while Violette à Deux Sous offered a sweet, persistent, and suave impression. Young Princess concluded the collection with a soft, sweet, and sophisticated personality.

The terminology Guerlain employed in describing these perfumes was more than poetic—it carried precise meaning for consumers and connoisseurs. An accentué fragrance amplified its central theme, making certain notes bold and unforgettable. A suave composition implied a smooth, polished balance that conveyed refinement without excess. Persistent fragrances were those with long-lasting projection and depth, leaving a lingering trail over time. Finally, an original perfume represented innovation, with a composition that challenged convention and delighted with novelty. Within this framework, Rodomel was defined by its sweet, floral character—both charming and enduring—a honeyed rose creation that embodied the elegance and technical achievement of Guerlain’s Parfums Préparés par Condensation series.


Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? Rodomel is classified as a sweet floral oriental fragrance.

  • Top notes: bergamot, lemon, neroli, orange, orange blossom, cassie, rose otto, English honey
  • Middle notes: geranium, rose tincture, jasmine, tuberose, ylang ylang, iris, clove, patchouli, vetiver, rosewood
  • Base notes: vanilla, vanillin, benzoin, musk, ambergris, civet, tolu balsam, styrax, Peru balsam, costus, storax, sandalwood


Scent Profile:

Rodomel opened with a burst of brightness that immediately captured attention. The first impression came from Calabrian bergamot—sunlit and sparkling, carrying its distinctive balance of citrusy freshness and gentle bitterness thanks to naturally occurring linalyl acetate and limonene. This was quickly joined by lemon, sharper and zestier, with citral lending an almost candied brightness that cut cleanly through the air. Neroli, distilled from the blossoms of the bitter orange tree, added elegance with its honeyed, green-floral facets, softened by orange blossom absolute, which contributed a rounder, more indolic sweetness. Together, they formed a citrus-floral overture, both refreshing and sophisticated. Cassie, from the blossoms of Acacia farnesiana, added a subtle powdery greenness tinged with mimosa-like warmth, a perfect segue to the rich floral heart. Into this brightness, rose otto—often sourced from Bulgaria’s famed Valley of Roses—unfurled its velvety petals, exhaling the complex interplay of citronellol, geraniol, and phenylethyl alcohol, molecules that created its lemony sparkle, fresh greenery, and voluptuous depth. Threading through this bouquet was English honey, its golden sweetness carrying faint animalic and waxy nuances, deepening the opening with warmth and evoking the very rodomel (rose honey) from which the perfume drew its name.

The heart of Rodomel revealed an opulent floral tapestry. Geranium added a rosy brightness edged with minty and green undertones, bridging seamlessly into the lushness of rose tincture, which echoed the opening’s rose otto but with more sensual roundness. Jasmine absolute, with its indoles lending narcotic depth, brought a fleshy richness that contrasted beautifully against the cool powder of orris root, its irones giving a violet-like, suede texture. Tuberose arrived with heady, almost creamy intoxication, supported by ylang-ylang from the Comoros, whose benzyl acetate and methyl benzoate imparted a custard-like creaminess underscored by fruity, almost banana-like notes. A whisper of clove added a spicy carnation edge, its eugenol warming the florals and foreshadowing the oriental turn of the base. Patchouli grounded the bouquet with its earthy, camphoraceous depth, while vetiver from Haiti contributed a smoky-woody greenness, rich in vetiverol, its coolness sharpening the floral decadence. Rosewood, with its linalool-driven lavender-rose profile, added a smooth, slightly soapy roundness, balancing the opulence with polish.

As the fragrance settled, the base revealed its true oriental richness. Vanilla and its synthetic counterpart, vanillin, created a soft, gourmand sweetness—vanilla absolute bringing a creamy, multifaceted richness from vanillic aldehydes, while vanillin amplified and prolonged that warmth with crystalline clarity. Benzoin from Siam contributed a resinous, balsamic sweetness with faint cinnamon undertones, while Tolu balsam from South America added a soft, caramelized warmth, blending into the slightly leathery facets of styrax and storax. Peru balsam deepened this accord with its dark, syrupy richness, full of cinnamic acids and benzoates that lingered on the skin like molten amber. Animalic touches of musk, civet, and ambergris enriched the sensuality—musk adding a clean, skin-like softness, civet contributing a warm, faintly feral undertone, and ambergris offering its salty, marine-leathery complexity, enhancing diffusion and longevity. Costus root, with its fatty, almost animalic nuances reminiscent of unwashed hair, added a daring depth that made the base feel alive. Finally, Mysore sandalwood, prized in perfumery for its creamy, milky warmth and high santalol content, smoothed all edges, creating a velvety, meditative finish.

Rodomel’s architecture balanced the radiance of its citrus-floral top, the lush grandeur of its floral-spiced heart, and the enveloping sweetness of its resinous, animalic base. The use of synthetics such as vanillin alongside natural absolutes represented the transitional moment in late 19th-century perfumery, where tradition and innovation met. Vanillin, for instance, sharpened and extended the natural vanilla, while ionones from orris emphasized the violet-like powdery nuance. The result was a fragrance that felt both timeless and modern for its era—at once honeyed, floral, sweetly resinous, and richly sensual. Rodomel was not merely a perfume; it was a sensory embodiment of its name: the union of roses and honey, a nectar both divine and deeply human.


Bottles:

Rodomel was housed in the Flacon Plat, both used for extrait de parfum. The Flacon Plat, or “flat bottle,” was a signature of the period, favored for its slim, easily portable profile and its ability to display colorful paper labels. 



Fate of the Fragrance:


Discontinued, date unknown.

Guerlain's Talc de Toilette

 Guerlain's Talc de Toilette was housed inside of a tin enameled in blue, off white and black.