Showing posts with label Avril en Fleurs c1883. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Avril en Fleurs c1883. Show all posts

Saturday, September 28, 2024

Avril en Fleurs c1883

Avril en Fleurs (1883) – The name translates from French as “April in Bloom.” Created by Pierre-François Pascal Guerlain, this fragrance was later reformulated by Jacques Guerlain in 1905. Still being sold in 1917, it was likely Guerlain’s interpretation of the highly popular floral scent “Spring Flowers,” given a distinctive name. Housed in elegant 19th-century flacons, it reflects Guerlain’s signature style of bright, fresh floral bouquets designed to evoke the renewal and fragrance of springtime..

Avril en Fleurs (“April in Bloom”), as described in the American Jewish Chronicle in 1917, evokes the essence of early spring with remarkable immediacy and clarity. The reviewer’s words paint a vivid olfactory landscape: at first sniff, one encounters the freshness of young, half-opened blossoms, their delicate petals conveying a soft, almost crinkly texture, like the tender leaves of newly sprouted plants. This gentle, floral aroma conjures the lightness and vitality of spring, a fragrance that feels alive with the season’s quiet energy.

The description emphasizes the airy, fleeting quality of the scent, akin to the impression of a light blue April sky, dotted with scurrying white clouds and carried on unexpected little breezes. It is not merely a perfume but an olfactory embodiment of nature’s awakening, capturing the freshness, purity, and optimism of early spring. Women of the period would likely have experienced Avril on Fleurs as both uplifting and elegant, a delicate reflection of renewal, femininity, and the intimate joy of stepping outdoors to witness the first blooms of the season.

In this way, the fragrance stands as a poetic interpretation of the landscape, using the soft sweetness of blossoms and tender greenery to evoke a time, place, and emotion that transcends the mere act of scent-wearing. It exemplifies the artistry of perfumers in translating visual and tactile impressions of nature into aromatic experiences, inviting the wearer to immerse themselves fully in a sensory memory of spring.


Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? Avril en Fleurs is classified as an opulent floral oriental fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: bergamot, sweet orange, cassie, rose, violet, sweet pea
  • Middle notes: hyacinth, magnolia, seringa, geranium, rose, violet
  • Base notes: verbena, vanillin, sandalwood, ambergris, civet, musk

Scent Profile:


Avril en Fleurs—its name alone feels like a sigh of spring. The phrase immediately conjures the tender, luminous rebirth of nature: the pale gold of sunlight filtering through young leaves, petals unfolding after a long winter, and the delicate hum of life awakening. Guerlain’s choice of this name (if we imagine it emerging from the house’s romantic lexicon) would have been deliberate—an evocation of freshness, femininity, and optimism. “April in Bloom” is both a literal image and a metaphor for womanhood itself—grace in renewal, beauty in full awakening, and sensuality budding beneath refinement.

When Avril en Fleurs was introduced, it would have reflected the sensibilities of its era—a time when perfumery celebrated lush naturalism and romantic femininity. The early-to-mid 20th century was defined by elegance and a longing for sophistication after periods of upheaval. Women’s fashion was shifting toward softness—bias-cut gowns, floral chiffons, and lighter, fluid silhouettes that embraced the natural form. This perfume, with its opulent floral oriental character, would have harmonized perfectly with that aesthetic. Perfumery at the time was steeped in the language of gardens and exotic allure, blending European refinement with hints of faraway sensuality. A perfume called Avril en Fleurs would have appealed deeply to women of the age—symbolizing youth and hope, yet enriched with an oriental warmth that hinted at passion beneath propriety.

To smell Avril en Fleurs is to experience a journey from morning to dusk in a perfumed garden. The opening bursts with bergamot and sweet orange, both sparkling and effervescent, the citrus oils releasing bright linalool and limonene molecules that awaken the senses. Their crisp freshness is softened by cassie—a golden, powdery mimosa note with almondy nuances from its natural benzaldehyde content—and the romantic hush of rose and violet. The sweet pea adds a fragile, pastel sweetness, airy and nostalgic, like petals caught on the breeze.

In the heart, the florals deepen into a heady symphony. Hyacinth brings a green, dewy coolness, while magnolia unfolds with creamy, lemony nuances—its linalool oxide lending both brightness and texture. Seringa, or mock orange, contributes a honeyed, jasmine-like sweetness that bridges the heart to the warmth of geranium, rose, and violet. The result is complex yet harmonious—a floral accord that feels alive, moving from fresh to voluptuous, innocence to seduction.

As it settles, Avril en Fleurs unveils its oriental soul. The base is warm and sensual, grounded in sandalwood—creamy, resinous, and softly smoky—enriched by the balsamic sweetness of vanillin and the marine-animalic nuance of ambergris. Civet adds a barely-there shadow of warmth and animal magnetism, while musk smooths the entire composition into a soft, tactile finish. A thread of verbena lingers from the top, brightening the heavier tones with its green, citrusy clarity. Together, they form a drydown that feels both intimate and expansive—like the scent of skin warmed by the afternoon sun among blooming flowers.

The phrase Avril en Fleurs interpreted in scent becomes a portrait of spring itself: a marriage of freshness and sensuality, of the earth’s awakening and human tenderness. In the context of its time, it would have been considered a sophisticated creation—aligned with the floral richness popular in perfumery, yet distinct for its luxurious oriental base. Where many floral perfumes of the era leaned toward the powdery or the romantic, Avril en Fleurs dared to be both—lush, radiant, and softly carnal beneath its bouquet of blossoms.

It is, ultimately, a perfume about transformation—the same transformation April brings to the world each year. A whisper of rebirth, a promise of beauty, and the fleeting magic of a moment suspended between innocence and desire.


Fate of the Fragrance:


Discontinued, date unknown. Still being sold in 1917.

Guerlain's Talc de Toilette

 Guerlain's Talc de Toilette was housed inside of a tin enameled in blue, off white and black.