Guerlain Perfumes: Rococo A la Parisienne c1853

Sunday, February 3, 2013

Rococo A la Parisienne c1853

Guerlain’s Rococo À la Parisienne, launched in 1853, is a perfume that immediately evokes refinement, elegance, and the playful intricacy of Parisian high society. The name itself is rich with meaning: Rococo derives from the French words rocaille and coquille, referring to ornamental rock work and shell decorations, often crescent-shaped, found in aristocratic gardens. Combined with À la Parisienne, the phrase can be loosely interpreted as “Rock Garden of the Parisian Woman.” These whimsical “rock gardens” were frequently installed in grottoes and grotto-like spaces, adorned with jagged rocks and shells, creating irregular yet mesmerizing displays that were symbols of taste and sophistication. The perfume’s name, pronounced as "Ro-ko-ko Ah la Par-ee-zen", conjures visions of delicately arranged floral nooks, glittering in sunlight, the kind of space where Parisian ladies might stroll, their laughter and perfume mingling in the warm air.

The fragrance itself embodies this sense of playful refinement, a scent that would have resonated with women of mid-19th-century Paris. This was a period following the upheavals of the 1848 Revolution and the rise of the Second French Empire under Napoleon III. Fashion in Paris was opulent yet delicate: crinolines, lace collars, and elaborately styled hair were in vogue, all of which complemented the sensory elegance that a perfume like Rococo À la Parisienne provided. Women of this era were beginning to see fragrance not merely as a masking agent for body odors but as an essential element of personal style, a statement of taste and social grace. A perfume named after a rococo garden would have evoked images of floral abundance, playful sophistication, and aristocratic leisure, allowing the wearer to carry a private, olfactory slice of Parisian beauty wherever she went.

In its olfactory interpretation, Rococo À la Parisienne would have been perceived as delicate, intricate, and multi-layered, much like the decorative gardens that inspired its name. The Rococo style in architecture and art was characterized by elaborate yet harmonious arrangements — similarly, the perfume would blend soft florals, subtle spices, and gentle woody or balsamic undertones into a balanced and elegant whole. In the context of other fragrances of the 1850s, Rococo À la Parisienne was both fashionable and innovative. While floral and oriental fragrances dominated perfumery, Guerlain’s careful attention to harmony, narrative, and the evocation of a Parisian cultural ideal made this perfume stand out as a uniquely evocative creation, appealing to women who sought not only fragrance but a story, a mood, and a statement in their scent.

In essence, Rococo À la Parisienne is less a single scent than a sensory portrait: it conjures sun-dappled rock gardens, coquettish Parisian elegance, and the quiet sophistication of a woman attuned to art, fashion, and the pleasures of delicate olfactory luxury. The name, the period, and Guerlain’s artistry combine to make it a perfume that speaks both of a place and a mindset, offering a fragrant window into the cultivated world of mid-19th-century Parisian society.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Rococo À la Parisienne would unfold as an elegant, multi-layered floral oriental, delicate yet full of character, evoking the refined, playful charm of its namesake rococo gardens.

At first impression, the top notes would likely feel bright and airy, a soft burst of citrus or light floral facets—think gentle orange blossom or neroli—lifting the senses like morning sunlight filtering through a garden grotto. This initial freshness would be delicate, not sharp, setting a graceful stage for the heart of the perfume.

The middle notes would unfold into a bouquet of layered florals: velvety rose, tender violet, jasmine, and perhaps carnation or lilac. Each flower would present its own character—the powdery softness of violet, the lush warmth of rose, the slightly spicy nuance of carnation—all mingling harmoniously. This core would be the essence of Rococo elegance: structured yet airy, feminine yet confident, reminiscent of the ornamental and layered style of rococo gardens.

Finally, the base notes would lend subtle warmth and depth: gentle woods, soft amber or benzoin, and a whisper of musk, providing a quiet, lingering richness that anchors the lighter florals. These base notes would evoke the soil, the aged rocks, and the natural grounding of a garden, giving the perfume an enduring, sophisticated trail without overpowering the delicate bouquet at its heart.

Overall, Rococo À la Parisienne would smell like a stroll through a sunlit, artfully arranged Parisian garden: floral, layered, soft, slightly powdery, with a quiet warmth beneath the bright, fresh, and playful floral overtones. It’s a perfume that embodies refinement, femininity, and elegance, balancing freshness with subtle sensuality, perfectly suited to the sophisticated tastes of mid-19th-century Parisian women.