Showing posts with label Nice Dear c1883. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Nice Dear c1883. Show all posts

Sunday, February 10, 2013

Nice, Dear c1893

Nice, Dear by Guerlain, launched in 1893, is a fragrance imbued with historical significance and refined symbolism. Guerlain chose the name Nice, Dear as a tribute both to Great Britain and to Queen Victoria, while also honoring the Greek goddess Nike—the Winged Goddess of Victory, whose Roman equivalent was Victoria. The name is pronounced “niece, deer” and evokes images of triumph, grace, and elegance. The fragrance conjures emotions of regal poise and refined femininity, as though capturing the serene dignity of a queen or the ethereal motion of a goddess gliding through a sunlit garden.

The inspiration for the scent came from a lush garden of white flowers, dominated by roses and jasmine. Imagine inhaling the soft, creamy sweetness of freshly bloomed roses, their petals releasing geraniol and citronellol, mingling with the narcotic, honeyed richness of jasmine, accented by jasmone, which lends a soft, powdery depth. Together, these florals create a luminous, airy bouquet. Subtle use of synthetic aroma chemicals would have enhanced the natural brightness and longevity of these ingredients, allowing the delicate garden essence to persist elegantly on the skin.

The perfume was launched at a time when Europe was immersed in the late Victorian era, a period marked by ceremony, structure, and cultural refinement. Fashion emphasized high collars, intricate lace, and elegant gowns, reflecting societal ideals of propriety and sophistication. In the same year, the new portrait of Queen Victoria, known as the “Old Head” or “Veiled Head,” appeared on British coinage, symbolizing the enduring dignity of the monarchy. Women of the period would have related to Nice, Dear as a fragrance that embodied both cultural prestige and personal refinement—a scented emblem of elegance and victory.

In the context of other perfumes on the market, Nice, Dear aligns with the widespread popularity of floral bouquets at the time, yet it stands out for its clarity, balance, and Guerlain’s characteristic craftsmanship. The combination of white florals, gentle powdery nuances, and subtle enhancements rendered it a fragrance both timeless and distinguished—a fragrant celebration of femininity, triumph, and historical homage.


Town topics, the journal of society - Volume 29 - Page 32, c1893:
"My dear Lena, you asked me to see about some small articles de toilette. So I went to Guerlain's and this is what he suggests for you.... A new perfume called 'Nice Dear' I thought irresistible. France we adopt a perfume and stick to it. One's scent is part of one's self l am sure you will like 'Nice Dear', to wish not to change again."


Wiener Mode: offizielles Organ des Hauses der Mode, 1893:

"From another source in Paris we are informed that washing with La Rubialine by Guerlain refreshes the complexion, especially if you use it every day. La Rubialine is not a make-up that works instantly but an excellent toiletry product that, when used regularly, preserves and beautifies the complexion. Le Nice Dear, an excellent handkerchief perfume also produced by Guerlain 15 rue de la Paix, has a refreshingly pleasant and long-lasting effect."


Fragrance Composition:



So what does it smell like? Nice, Dear is classified as a soft floral oriental fragrance. The inspiration was a garden full of white flowers, roses and jasmine.
  • Top notes: neroli, orange blossom, apricot, jasmine, lemon, bergamot, cassie, rose tincture 
  • Middle notes: methyl anthranilate, lavender, rose otto, honey, gardenia, jasmine, indol, ylang ylang, lily of the valley, orris, rosewood, patchouli
  • Base notes: blond tobacco, jasmine, civet, oakmoss, leather, vetiver, ambergris, balsam, sandalwood, vanilla, storax and Tonkin musk

Scent Profile:


Nice, Dear by Guerlain, launched in 1893, is a soft floral oriental fragrance that evokes a serene, sun-dappled garden in full bloom. The top notes open with a bright, radiant neroli—the distilled essence of bitter orange blossoms from Tunisia—its crisp, green-floral aroma enhanced by subtle linalool, lending freshness and a sparkling vibrancy. Orange blossom deepens the citrus-floral profile with its slightly honeyed warmth, while apricot introduces a soft, juicy fruitiness that perfectly balances the citrus. 

The jasmine note contributes its creamy, narcotic sweetness, with benzyl acetate and jasmone naturally present, enriching the perfume with its signature floral elegance. Lemon and bergamot, each from their Mediterranean origins, add zesty brightness: bergamot’s light bitterness and lemon’s crisp tang create an invigorating opening that feels fresh yet rounded. Cassie (acacia) lends powdery, slightly green nuances, and rose tincture infuses the top with a delicate warmth, its natural citronellol and geraniol contributing a soft, velvety elegance.

The heart of the fragrance unfolds like a lush, sunlit garden. Methyl anthranilate, a naturally occurring aromatic in jasmine and orange blossom, gives a sweet, grape-like facet that lifts the florals. Lavender introduces aromatic clarity with its camphoraceous edge, while rose otto imparts a deep, sensual floral richness, accentuated by phenylethyl alcohol, which enhances its natural warmth. Honey adds a subtle gourmand sweetness, mingling with the creamy, green facets of gardenia. Indol, present naturally in jasmine and tuberose, deepens the scent with a soft, animalic warmth. Ylang ylang brings a rich, tropical floral note, while lily of the valley and orris root provide powdery, ethereal textures. Rosewood contributes aromatic, slightly camphoraceous nuances, and patchouli adds an earthy, grounding depth, providing structure to the bouquet.

The base notes transform the fragrance into a soft oriental trail, rich and enduring. Blond tobacco introduces a subtle warmth and smokiness, perfectly complemented by the creamy jasmine lingering from the heart. Civet, whether natural or synthetically recreated, adds an animalic, sensual depth that highlights the florals. Oakmoss imparts a forest-like green resonance, while leather adds richness and sophistication. Vetiver offers dry, earthy complexity, its naturally occurring vetiverol enhancing the composition’s elegance. Ambergris lends a luminous, marine-like warmth, while balsam and sandalwood introduce resinous and creamy woodiness. Vanilla adds gourmand sweetness, harmonizing with storax’s balsamic nuance, and Tonkin musk provides a soft, powdery, lingering sensuality. Together, these base notes anchor the perfume in a luxurious oriental warmth, blending seamlessly with the luminous florals to create a scent that is timeless, sophisticated, and evocative of an elegant garden at the height of bloom.

This fragrance captures Guerlain’s signature artistry: a sophisticated layering of delicate, exotic, and opulent notes that balance freshness, floral richness, and oriental warmth. The combination of carefully sourced natural ingredients, alongside subtle synthetics that enhance longevity and brightness, ensures that each inhalation feels both fresh and infinitely refined, a tribute to elegance and historical craftsmanship.



Bottles:





Fate of the Fragrance:



Discontinued, date unknown.

Guerlain's Talc de Toilette

 Guerlain's Talc de Toilette was housed inside of a tin enameled in blue, off white and black.