Chypre by Guerlain, launched in 1838, stands as one of the earliest examples of a fragrance bearing the name of its family, “Chypre,” the French word for Cyprus, pronounced as "shee-pruh". The term evokes the sun-drenched Mediterranean island, conjuring images of mossy oak forests, warm amber, citrus groves, and rugged coastal landscapes. In perfumery, a Chypre is defined by the harmonious contrast of bright citrus top notes, a floral heart, and a warm, mossy-amber base, a structure that has endured for centuries and continues to influence fragrance creation to this day. The name itself carries a sense of refinement, sophistication, and natural elegance, promising a scent that is both complex and grounded in tradition.
The fragrance was created by Pierre-François Pascal Guerlain at a time when the early 19th century marked a period of expansion in perfumery, fueled by the fascination with exotic ingredients and the development of modern extraction techniques. Women of the period would have recognized a perfume called “Chypre” as a luxurious and fashionable scent, evocative of far-off lands, botanical richness, and refined taste. Its combination of spicy florals and resinous warmth would have been perceived as both elegant and slightly daring, fitting perfectly into the romantic and opulent fashions of the era.
Unlike typical Chypres that followed a simple citrus-floral-moss structure, Guerlain’s 1838 version was classified as a complex, opulent oriental floral, layered with spicy floral notes to create a more intricate olfactory experience. Throughout the 19th century and well into the 20th, Chypre remained a popular template; nearly every perfumery had its own interpretation, often customized by varying ingredients to distinguish it on the market. Early formulas relied heavily on natural extracts, tinctures, and infusions, capturing the true essence of flowers, woods, and resins. By the close of the century, the inclusion of synthetics such as coumarin, vanillin, ambreine, and vetiveryl acetate allowed perfumers to emphasize or enhance natural materials, control longevity, and expand creative possibilities. In 1903, Jacques Guerlain reformulated Chypre, updating its composition to reflect contemporary tastes while carefully preserving the signature character that had made it a classic, demonstrating the Maison’s enduring mastery of fragrance innovation.
This Guerlain Chypre represents not just a perfume but a historical milestone—a fragrance that bridged traditional natural perfumery with modern chemistry, offering women of the 19th century a scent that was simultaneously exotic, elegant, and unmistakably luxurious.
In 1913, a newspaper article in Evening Star captured the discerning perspective of Zinda Brozia, emphasizing the elusive nature of perfume: “Mere names of perfumes give no idea…You must smell them.” Brozia’s comment underlines the fact that, especially for chypres, the name alone could never convey the intricate harmony of notes, textures, and lasting impressions within the bottle. She noted that while Houbigant had produced a ‘Cypris’ as early as 1775 and Walter Scott had referenced “chypres” in literature, the category was still fluid, with each perfumer interpreting the style in a personal way.
Brozia highlighted Guerlain’s contributions, mentioning both Cyprisine and Chypre de Paris. The original Chypre—created by Atkinson—had been highly successful, but its name was unprotected, allowing many perfumers to adopt the label for their own compositions. Despite being marketed in the modest $1.20 range, Guerlain’s Chypre de Paris was celebrated for its exceptional value, elegance, and longevity, reflecting the meticulous craftsmanship and compositional skill for which the house was renowned. Brozia suggested that its balance of distinction and enduring quality made it virtually impossible to replicate, highlighting the artistry embedded even in Guerlain’s more accessible offerings.
The article paints a vivid picture of the era, when perfumes were judged not just by name or price, but by the sophistication of their construction, the fidelity of their accords, and their ability to evoke emotion. Guerlain’s chypres, including Chypre de Paris, exemplified this ethos—each a small masterpiece that delivered both sensory pleasure and a reflection of the perfumer’s artistry, illustrating why the house’s fragrances commanded admiration across social classes and decades.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? Chypre by Guerlain is not just a typical chypre, it is classified as a complex, opulent oriental floral fragrance.
- Top notes: bergamot, bitter orange, petitgrain, limetta, neroli, citral, orange blossom, hyacinth, angelica, calamus
- Middle notes: heliotropin, cassie, clary sage, verbena, rosemary, rose geranium, Bulgarian rose, jasmine, tuberose, orris, nutmeg
- Base notes: olibanum, clove, cedarwood, sandalwood, tonka bean, coumarin, musk, safrole, oakmoss, vetiver, vetiveryl acetate, labdanum, patchouli, ambergris, ambreine, civet, castoreum, vanilla
Scent Profile:
Chypre by Guerlain opens with a citrus bouquet that instantly awakens the senses. The top notes of bergamot—likely sourced from Calabria, Italy, renowned for its vibrant, slightly bitter zest—bring a sparkling brightness that lifts the composition immediately. Bitter orange adds a deeper, almost resinous citrus warmth, while petitgrain, distilled from the leaves and twigs of the bitter orange tree, introduces a green, slightly floral nuance, contrasting beautifully with the sweeter, sunny limetta. Neroli, extracted from Tunisian blossoms, contributes its delicate, honeyed floral aroma, elevating the citrus brightness with a radiant, almost ethereal quality. The addition of citral, a synthetic aroma chemical that mirrors the lemony facets of citrus, sharpens these notes, enhancing freshness and longevity. Orange blossom and hyacinth bring soft, dewy florals, while angelica adds a subtle earthy spiciness, and calamus, with its root-like, slightly peppery aroma, grounds the top notes with understated warmth.
As the heart unfolds, the fragrance reveals a lush floral tapestry intertwined with aromatic green herbs and spices. Heliotropin (heliotrope) provides a gentle almond-like sweetness, a powdery warmth that contrasts with the cassie (acacia) flowers, lending honeyed, slightly balsamic richness. Clary sage and verbena infuse the composition with a green, aromatic crispness, while rosemary brings a sharp, almost medicinal freshness. The rose geranium, with its slightly minty, fresh rose quality, blends seamlessly with Bulgarian rose, celebrated for its deep, opulent floral aroma, to provide a rich, romantic core. Jasmine and tuberose add creamy, heady floral intensity, their sensuality tempered by the powdery elegance of orris root. A whisper of nutmeg spices the florals, creating a gentle warmth that bridges the mid-notes to the base, enhancing complexity.
The base is a sumptuous fusion of woods, resins, musks, and precious animalic accents, enveloping the wearer in an opulent trail. Olibanum (frankincense) introduces dry, resinous depth, mingling with the warmth of clove. Cedarwood and sandalwood offer creamy, woody stability, while tonka bean and coumarin—the latter a synthetic molecule that replicates the sweet hay-like aroma of tonka—add gourmand warmth. Musk, civet, and castoreum lend animalic richness, imbuing the fragrance with sensuality and persistence. Safrole and labdanum contribute balsamic, slightly smoky layers, complementing oakmoss, which gives the scent its characteristic chypre earthiness. Vetiver and vetiveryl acetate provide smoky, woody depth; the latter, a synthetic enhancement, heightens the long-lasting, smooth facets of natural vetiver. Patchouli, ambergris, and ambreine add exotic, resinous sweetness, while vanilla balances the composition with gentle warmth and creaminess. Together, these elements create a fragrance that is both opulent and complex, a true oriental floral chypre, where the interplay of natural materials and carefully chosen aroma chemicals creates a composition of extraordinary depth, longevity, and sophistication.
This Guerlain Chypre exemplifies how a perfume can layer freshness, floral opulence, spice, and deep sensuality, offering a multisensory journey from the sparkling citrus of the top to the velvety, animalic-woody richness of the base—a fragrance that feels simultaneously timeless and luxurious.
Bottles:
Presented in the Carre flacon and the Goutte flacon.
Fate of the Fragrance:
The exact date when Chypre by Guerlain was discontinued remains unknown, though records confirm that it was still available as late as 1953. This longevity speaks to the enduring appeal of the fragrance, which had established itself as a benchmark for complex, opulent oriental floral compositions. Over the decades, Chypre maintained relevance despite shifting trends in perfumery, a testament to its sophisticated layering of citrus, florals, spices, and rich base notes.
For more than a century, Guerlain’s Chypre continued to exemplify the house’s commitment to elegance and artistry, offering a fragrance that balanced bright top notes with a sumptuous floral heart and a warm, sensual base. Its continued presence in the market into the early 1950s underscores the lasting impact of Jacques Guerlain’s vision, even as newer fragrance styles and synthetic materials began to reshape the industry. Though it eventually disappeared from commercial circulation, Chypre’s influence persisted, inspiring both contemporaneous and future interpretations of the chypre family.
