Rouge de la Cour by Guerlain, introduced in the mid-19th century, represents one of the earliest examples of luxury cosmetics from the house. Remarkably, it remained in production well into the early 20th century, still appearing in Guerlain’s catalogs around 1910. In official listings it was sold under the name Court Rouge, but it became better known by the evocative nickname rouge en tasse, or “pink saucers.” In Guerlain’s stock catalog, this elegant little item was recorded as #434, a testament to its longstanding presence in the brand’s repertoire.
The pink saucers were also referred to as rouge de théâtre, pointing to their popularity not only among fashionable ladies but also with actresses who relied on bold cosmetics for stage appearances. The formula was simple yet effective: carthamus rouge (a vegetal dye extracted from safflower petals) or carmine (a pigment derived from cochineal insects) formed the base of the color. To give the mixture texture and adherence, it was blended with a few drops of almond oil for smoothness and nourishment, and bound together with the mucilage of gum tragacanth, a natural plant gum that provided a soft, gel-like consistency. The finished paste was carefully spread across small disks of porcelain or glass, creating the distinctive “saucer” presentation.
To apply the rouge, women had a variety of methods at their disposal. Some preferred the simplicity of using their fingertips, while others reached for a tiny puff, a scrap of flannel, a cotton swab, or a fine brush to blend the color onto the cheeks. The result was a flush of lively pink that mimicked the healthy radiance of youth and gave a fashionable brightness to the complexion. At a time when cosmetics were often controversial or associated with the stage, Guerlain’s Rouge de la Cour managed to tread the line between refinement and theatricality, capturing the allure of both courtly elegance and the daring world of performance.
original image from a Guerlain catalog
photo by Lombrail-Teucquam
Cheek rouge, pressed into small glass pot. c1880-1915. Photo from imworld.aufeminin
