The perfume was launched during a period of intense interest in global exploration, colonial trade, and scientific discovery. European fashion and luxury culture were in the late Belle Époque, a time known for opulent fabrics, lavish social gatherings, and an enthusiasm for perfumes that could transport the wearer beyond the ordinary. Women of the era, embracing femininity, elegance, and subtle sensuality, would have been drawn to a fragrance called “Ylang Ylang” as both a statement of sophistication and a hint of exotic allure. The name alone suggests sweetness, sensuality, and the natural richness of the tropics—a perfume that whispers of golden sunsets and velvety petals.
From a compositional standpoint, Ylang Ylang perfumes of the 19th century were often based on mixed blends designed to evoke the fresh, heady aroma of tropical yellow blossoms. Guerlain would have utilized natural ylang ylang extracts, absolutes, and tinctures, emphasizing the flower’s creamy, slightly fruity facets and its warm, jasmine-like depth. Early formulations may also have included supporting florals such as jasmine or tuberose to amplify its richness. By the end of the century, synthetic ingredients like coumarin, vanillin, linalool, benzyl acetate, and musk xylene were sometimes introduced to enhance longevity, intensity, and clarity, while preserving the natural charm of the ylang ylang. These synthetics allowed the perfume to maintain its exotic freshness over hours, creating a balanced composition that was both opulent and wearable.
In the context of the market, Guerlain’s Ylang Ylang fit within the broader popularity of tropical flower perfumes, yet it stood out for its refinement and craftsmanship. While other perfumers experimented with ylang ylang, Guerlain’s approach combined scientific precision, artistry, and a subtle layering of supporting notes that created a scent both modern and timeless. Women of the era would have experienced it as a floral statement of elegance, capturing the exotic, the luxurious, and the subtly erotic all in one fragrant impression.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? Ylang Ylang is classified as a floral oriental fragrance.
- Top notes: neroli, orange blossom, lemon, cassie, sweet orange
- Middle notes: ylang ylang, rose, jasmine, jonquil, tuberose
- Base notes: musk, benzoin, orris, tonka bean, vanilla, civet
Scent Profile:
Ylang Ylang by Guerlain opens with a radiant, sunlit top layer that immediately awakens the senses. Neroli, harvested from the blossoms of the bitter orange trees of Southern Italy, exudes a luminous, green-floral sweetness, rich in linalool and linalyl acetate, giving the perfume a crisp, sparkling vibrancy. Interwoven with neroli is orange blossom, sourced traditionally from Tunisia or Morocco, offering its soft, honeyed floral aroma, slightly indolic, providing depth to the opening. Lemon, with its bright limonene-rich zest, cuts through the richer florals, imparting a sparkling freshness that is both uplifting and invigorating. Cassie, the delicate yellow acacia flower, contributes a powdery, almost almond-like nuance, softening the citrus brilliance. Sweet orange, more rounded and warm than the lemon, balances the top notes with gentle juiciness, creating a radiant, citrus-floral introduction evocative of sun-drenched Mediterranean groves.
The heart blooms into a lush, tropical bouquet that feels both opulent and intoxicating. Ylang ylang, traditionally harvested from Madagascar or the Comoros, delivers a narcotic sweetness that is simultaneously creamy, floral, and slightly exotic, rich in benzyl acetate, geraniol, and linalool. Its presence is immediately enveloping, imparting an exotic warmth to the composition. Rose, often Damask or Bulgarian, unfurls with velvety elegance, its phenylethyl alcohol and citronellol lending a fresh yet deeply romantic floral character. Jasmine adds a heady, creamy floral intensity, balancing the sweet, slightly green notes of jonquil, a delicate yellow narcissus. Tuberose, with its rich, opulent, and slightly animalic aroma, enhances the heart’s depth and sensuality. Together, the middle notes create a flowering garden at its peak, evoking tropical evenings heavy with scent, where each petal releases a distinct, intoxicating aroma.
The base settles into a warm, sensual foundation that lingers long after the initial bloom has faded. Musk provides a soft, enveloping warmth, enhancing the perfume’s sensual aura. Benzoin, sourced from Siam, contributes a balsamic sweetness, its vanillin-like aroma complementing both the floral and gourmand elements. Orris root, cultivated primarily in Italy, lends a powdery, violet-like softness that adds refinement and creaminess. Tonka bean, rich in coumarin, offers a subtle almonded warmth that bridges the florals and woods seamlessly. Vanilla, with its creamy sweetness, enriches the oriental depth, enhancing the perfume’s warmth and softness. Finally, civet, either natural or synthetically reproduced, imbues a subtle animalic, skin-like sensuality that anchors the fragrance and intensifies its intimate, enveloping character.
The combination of these ingredients—citrus from the Mediterranean, exotic ylang ylang from Madagascar, rich florals from Europe, and warm orientals—creates a harmonious floral oriental masterpiece. Guerlain’s judicious use of natural absolutes alongside synthetic enhancers ensures that each note is not only discernible but elevated, allowing the fragrance to remain luminous, exotic, and timeless. Ylang Ylang is a perfume that simultaneously evokes sunlight, lush tropical gardens, and intimate elegance, inviting the wearer into a world of refined, sensual beauty.
Bottle:
