The Flacon Chauve-Souris (“The Bat”), introduced in 1924, is a masterful creation by Raymond Guerlain in collaboration with Baccarat, designed exclusively to hold the extrait of Shalimar. Its urn-shaped form, also referred to as “fan-shaped,” presents a bold yet elegant silhouette, with a fluted pedestal base that captures and refracts light, giving the crystal a sense of depth and vibrancy. The bottle was created for the Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes in Paris in 1925, a seminal event that helped define the Art Deco movement, positioning Shalimar not just as a perfume but as an object of modern artistic expression. Over time, the Chauve-Souris bottle was also produced by several other esteemed glasshouses, including Pochet et du Courval, Saint-Gobain Desjonqueres, Cristal Nancy, Verreries Brosse, and Cristal Romesnil, further cementing its reputation as a design icon.
Typically, the bottle features clear crystal paired with a blue glass or blue-flashed stopper, inscribed with “Guerlain Paris” in gold lettering. A rare variation exists with a plain clear crystal stopper, making it highly sought after by collectors. Early examples (1925-1936.) of the bottle had stoppers drilled at the base to allow the cording used in the finishing process—known as baudruchage—to be threaded through and wrapped around the neck, sealing the bottle. The loose, twisted ends of the cording is then carefully combed out during barbichage, or "bearding" and then brushed out by hand by the "dames de table" in a process known as brossage which results in a fanciful, fluffy tassel. The "dames de table" have perfected this method so that it only takes them four minutes at a time to finish the baudruchage ritual of each Shalimar flacon. Bottles made after 1936 no longer required drilling in the stopper, though the cording and metal Guerlain “G” seal continued to be used to ensure the bottle remained securely closed.
The Chauve-Souris bottle was presented in a luxurious lilac flocked hinged box, simulating velvet, with a tailored compartment ensuring the bottle rested perfectly inside. Collectors can identify the provenance and value of a bottle by checking the acid stamps on the base from Baccarat, Cristal Nancy, or Cristal Romesnil, or the entwined HP mark of Pochet et du Courval.
Cristal Nancy closed its doors in 1931 and was acquired by Baccarat so if your bottle is marked with the Cristal Nancy logo, your bottle was made between 1925 and 1931. Cristal Nancy made bottles in similar sizes and capacities to those of Baccarat.
A very rare early detail noted by Roja Dove was the subtle violet iridescence on some stoppers, originally achieved through a mercury firing process, though Guerlain later clarified that mercury was never used in their stopper production.
The Flacon Chauve-Souris represents both technical innovation and artistic elegance, combining Baccarat’s precision glassmaking, Guerlain’s visionary design, and meticulous finishing techniques. Its introduction at the 1925 Exposition, along with the elaborate finishing rituals and luxurious presentation, underscores the bottle’s role as both a functional vessel and an objet d’art, capturing the glamour, craftsmanship, and sophistication of early 20th-century French perfumery.
By 1997, Shalimar was available in the following Chauve Souris sizes:
- 7.5ml = 7.4cm
- 15ml = 10.2cm
- 30ml = 14.9cm
- 60ml = 16.4cm
- 125ml = 20.8cm
By 1997, the 250ml, 500ml, 1 liter and 1.5 liter (39cm) sizes were only available by special order.
Although Shalimar is often credited as the first perfume to feature a pedestal base paired with a colored glass stopper, this claim is somewhat of a myth. As a perfume historian, it is clear that a very similar bottle had already been produced for Talis by Bourjois, created by Cristalleries de Saint-Louis in 1912. This same design was later used for the 1922 fragrance Miss Kate, demonstrating that the combination of a pedestal and a colored stopper predated Shalimar by more than a decade. While Shalimar popularized the style and firmly associated it with Guerlain’s iconic aesthetic, the historical record shows that the concept was not entirely original to this fragrance.
Baccarat created six moulds:
- 20ml/0.676 oz - 10.5cm/4.13"
- 30ml/1 oz - 14.3cm/5.63
- 15.5cm/6/10"
- 16cm/6.29"
- 125ml/4.2 oz - 20cm/7.87"
- 22.5cm/8.85"
Cristal Nancy made bottles in similar sizes and capacities to those of Baccarat.
Pochet et du Courval created thirteen moulds:
- Mould #13694 -'fan shaped bottle' (1924, cancelled)
- Mould #14161 -'fan shaped bottle' (1927)
- Mould #17147 = 20cc - 'Shalimar bottle with raised base' (1948)
- Mould #17148 = 30cc (1948, changed plan to 3100/F in 1979 to 30ml)
- Mould #18008 = 10cc (1954)
- Mould #19131 = 60cc (1962, changed plan to 3899/D in 1978 to 60ml)
- Mould #19353 = 16.5cc (blue 'plastemeri' stopper with "Guerlain Paris" in gold)
- Mould #20584 = 2.3ml sample bottle (1972)
- Mould #22078 = 1/2 oz/approx 15ml (1978)
- Mould #23187 = 1630cc (1982, changed plan to 6207/B in 1982 to 1.5 liters)
- Mould #23814 = 2ml sample bottle (1984)
- Mould #24445 = 80cc (1986)
- Mould #26066 = 7.5ml (1991)
Saint-Gobain Desjonqueres created four moulds:
- Mould #5260 (plan #70935) = 7.5ml - 1.98cm/0.74" 'fine base' (Apr 1981)
- Mould #5141 (plan #30611) = 7.5ml - 1.98cm/0.74" 'wide base', engraved "Bottle Made in France" (Oct 1981- Apr 1995)
- Mould #5127 (plan #70566) = 10ml/0.388 oz - 8.2cm/3.23" wide base, engraved "Bottle Made in France Net Cont 1/3 fl oz" (1981 to 1984)
- Mould #4896 (plan#70500) = 15ml/0.5 oz - 9.3cm/3.66" wide base, engraved "Bottle Made in France" SGD "Net Cont 1/2 fl oz" (1981 to 1986). Modifications to mould #4896: size of base, engraving, capacity.
Other manufacturers:
- 7.5 ml/1.25 oz - 7.4 cm/2.91" (1991)
- 10cc/10ml/0.388 oz - 8cm/3.15" (1954)
- 16.5cc/0.558 oz - 9.3cm/3.66" (1964, changed in 1978 15ml)
- 20cc/20ml/0.676 oz - 9.6cm/3.78" (1948)
- 30cc/30ml/1 oz - 10cm/3.94" (1948, changed in 1979 30ml)
- 40cc/40ml/1.35 oz - 11.4cm/4.49" 60cc/60ml/2 oz - 15cm/5.91" (1962, changed in 1978 to 60ml) 80cc/80ml/2.7 oz - 18cm/7.09" 125cc/125ml/4.2 oz - 20.8cm/8.19"
- Largest Parfum Bottle 50 oz - 15" tall (2001) - This size also used for factice.
Factice Bottles:
Guerlain’s Shalimar factice bottles are monumental display pieces created to showcase the fragrance in boutiques without containing actual perfume. The large factice, produced by Pochet et du Courval, stands an impressive 15.5 inches tall and 11 inches wide, with a foot measuring 7 inches across, making it a commanding presence on any display. Its design faithfully mirrors the iconic Shalimar bottle, allowing customers to appreciate the shape, proportions, and aesthetic details on a grand scale.
Even more striking is the giant factice, which rises to 17.5 inches tall, with a width of 12.5 inches and a depth of 5.25 inches. The interior of this colossal bottle is colored amber to simulate the appearance of the perfume, though it contains no liquid. Both factices served as visual merchandising tools, highlighting the elegance and luxurious design of Shalimar while protecting the precious fragrance itself. These oversized bottles exemplify Guerlain’s attention to presentation and marketing, transforming the perfume bottle into an object of spectacle and admiration.
Presentation Avion:
A particularly rare and fascinating variant of Guerlain’s packaging is the Presentation Avion (airplane transportation presentation), introduced around 1960 for Air France Paris–New York flights. This presentation was specifically designed to address the challenges of air travel, minimizing the risk of leakage while maintaining an elegant display. Unlike traditional boxes in which the bottle lay flat, the Presentation Avion featured a small plinth inside the box, allowing the perfume bottle to stand upright. The lid of the box then slipped over this plinth, creating a secure and protective cover for the bottle during transport.
In a further innovation, the stopper was not pre-inserted into the bottle but placed separately inside a tiny cardboard container included within the presentation, while the perfume itself was sealed with a cork covered in a thin plastic seal. This ensured the fragrance remained intact and unspilled, reflecting Guerlain’s meticulous attention to both practicality and luxury. Later editions of the presentation returned to the more typical layout, with the bottle resting in a cut-out within the box rather than on a plinth.
These Presentation Avion bottles were produced by both Baccarat and Pochet et du Courval, and collectors can identify them by the respective logos on the base, such as Baccarat’s symbol or Pochet’s entwined HP. This rare packaging not only demonstrates Guerlain’s innovative approach to fragrance presentation and travel solutions but also underscores the house’s dedication to combining elegance, function, and collectible appeal.
- 4 oz Baccarat bottle stands about 6" tall from base of bottle to top of cork (not including stopper)
- 2 oz Baccarat bottle stands about 4.75" tall from base of bottle to top of cork (not including stopper)
- 1 oz Baccarat bottle stands 3" tall from base of bottle to top of cork (not including stopper)
