Guerlain's Depilatory & Prepared Water c1910

Guerlain, like many perfumeries of the 19th and 20th centuries, expanded its range beyond fragrances to include personal care products, among them depilatories and “prepared waters” designed for hair removal and skin treatment. The depilatory formulas of the period reflect a combination of chemical knowledge, artisanal preparation, and practical application for domestic beauty care. One common formula included alcohol, iodine, collodion, oil of turpentine, and castor oil, designed to be applied daily over three to four days. This combination, while potent, was considered relatively safe for repeated short-term use, balancing efficacy with the avoidance of permanent skin damage. The inclusion of collodion provided adhesion, helping the active ingredients maintain contact with the skin, while turpentine and castor oil served both as solvents and as softening agents to protect the skin’s surface.

Other formulations employed sulphide of barium in a fine powder, often combined with starch powder, precipitated chalk, or Venice talc to create a paste that could be applied directly to hair-bearing areas. According to contemporaneous references such as Martindale and the Chem and Druggist Magazine of March 1890, the effectiveness of depilatories relied heavily on the freshness of the sulphide. In more advanced preparations, barium sulphide could be produced by mixing powdered barium sulphate with an equal weight of charcoal, forming it into a dense paste with linseed oil, and then heating it until deflagration occurred. Once cooled and powdered, this fresh barium sulphide was blended with starch and oxide of zinc and made into a paste with water for topical application. The mixture was allowed to remain on the skin for about ten minutes, dissolving the hair without causing lasting harm.

These formulas illustrate the intersection of chemistry and cosmetics in the late 19th century. The use of chemical reduction, mineral powders, and plant-derived oils demonstrates both ingenuity and caution: perfumers and pharmacists sought to maximize hair removal efficiency while minimizing skin irritation. Guerlain’s prepared waters and depilatories, therefore, were not only products of aesthetic desire but also of careful chemical experimentation, representing a period when personal care was increasingly professionalized, yet still reliant on artisanal knowledge and hands-on preparation. The language of precision and the reliance on fresh, reactive ingredients highlight how closely efficacy was tied to the perfumer’s or apothecary’s skill and timing.