Guerlain's Roselip, introduced around 1879–1880, was a delicate and refined lip preparation, a lightly rose-tinted balm designed to nourish, protect, and subtly color the lips. It was elegantly housed in a tiny Sèvres porcelain pot, reflecting both luxury and craftsmanship, and was available in two shades: a soft pink (#449) and a warm coral red (#450). The product remained popular for decades, continuing to be sold until around 1910, exemplifying Guerlain’s early mastery in combining cosmetic function with aesthetic sophistication.
The formulation of Roselip followed a typical 19th-century recipe for lip pomades or balms. Olive oil served as a deeply hydrating and emollient base, rich in fatty acids and antioxidants, which helped soften and protect delicate lip skin. Whale oil, commonly used at the time, added additional richness and a creamy texture that allowed the balm to glide smoothly. Sweet almond oil contributed soothing and nourishing qualities, maintaining hydration and imparting a gentle softness to the lips. White wax provided structure and stability, allowing the balm to adhere evenly without being greasy or runny.
The fragrant and functional elements further enhanced the experience. Roses infused the balm with a natural, floral aroma, while also providing mild astringent properties that could help tone the lips. Balsam of Peru, a resin with a warm, vanilla-like scent, contributed both fragrance and a subtle antiseptic quality, helping to protect minor cracks or dryness. Together, these ingredients created a product that was not only pleasant to use but also beneficial to the lips’ health and appearance.
From a safety perspective, these ingredients were largely benign for the skin. Olive and almond oils are gentle and nourishing, white wax is non-irritating, and the small amounts of rose and balsam served both aesthetic and mild protective functions. Whale oil, while less commonly used today due to ethical concerns, was not harmful and helped achieve a luxurious texture. Overall, the formula was nourishing, protective, and safe for regular application.
In practice, Roselip would have been applied daily or as needed, providing a subtle tint, moisture, and a soft sheen, enhancing the lips while also evoking a sense of refinement and elegance. Its compact size and beautiful porcelain container made it both a functional cosmetic and a collectible piece of luxury, perfectly in line with Guerlain’s reputation for combining artistry and utility in cosmetics.
