Flacon Noeud Papillon (Butterfly Knot) c1937-1956

The Flacon Noeud Papillon—literally the Butterfly Knot bottle—was created in 1937 to house Guerlain’s perfume Coque d’Or. Its distinctive form, modeled after a bow tie, was unlike anything Guerlain had previously commissioned and perfectly suited the fragrance’s name, which translates as “golden shell.” The design proved versatile enough to be reused in the 1940s and 1950s for other Guerlain extraits, including Kriss (1942–1945) and Dawamesk (from 1945 until about 1955). After June 1956, the bottle was no longer available, closing a unique chapter in Guerlain’s bottle history.

The bottle was made in both crystal and glass, with Baccarat credited as its primary creator. Identified as model #770, Baccarat manufactured five moulds, while Pochet et du Courval contributed two moulds, ensuring production could meet Guerlain’s needs. Notably, the bow-tie bottles were supplied unlacquered by the glassworks, meaning the brilliant cobalt blue versions—both plain and gilded—cannot be firmly attributed to a single perfume, even though they were used across several fragrances. The crystal versions were engraved at the factory with both the Baccarat trademark and their identification number. In contrast, the glass models were numbered only after they had been lacquered.

Collectors can distinguish between Baccarat and Pochet et du Courval examples through close attention to finish and markings. Baccarat bottles bear the acid-etched Baccarat trademark and are numbered with a stylus. Their stoppers can be either smooth or faceted. By comparison, bottles made by Pochet et du Courval initially featured smooth stoppers, but these were later modified to make opening easier. Instead of engraving, bottle and stopper were numbered in matte gold paint.

The Flacon Noeud Papillon remains one of Guerlain’s most iconic Art Deco bottles, admired for its elegance, ingenuity, and theatricality. Whether in cobalt glass or crystal, with or without gilding, it continues to capture the eye as a sculptural object that mirrors the glamour of its era.

Sizes:

Baccarat (smooth or faceted stoppers):

• 40cc/40ml/1.35 oz - 5.5cm/2.17" 
• 80cc/80ml/2.7 oz - 6.5cm/2.56 
• 125cc/125ml/4.2 oz - 7.5cm/2.95" 
• 250cc/250ml/8.4 oz - 8.5cm/3.35" 
• 500cc/500ml/16.9 oz - 10.5cm/4.13" 

Pochet et du Courval (smooth cap only):

• Mould #15455 = 40cc/40ml/1.35 oz - 5.5cm.2.17" 
• Mould #15385 = 82cc/82ml/2.77 oz - 6.6cm/2.6"

Bottles:

  

Scents:

• Champs Elysees
• Coque d'Or 
• Dawamesk
• Kriss

Presentation Box:

The presentation box for the Flacon Noeud Papillon was as striking and innovative as the bottle itself, conceived by the celebrated French decorator Jean-Michel Frank. Frank, who was responsible for the décor of Guerlain’s perfume shops with his signature trompe l’oeil effects, extended his refined aesthetic sensibility to this luxurious packaging. The box was constructed from poplar wood, but its surface was covered with a thin layer of plaster worked to imitate the effect of limed wood, giving it a subtly textured and elegant finish. This understated, modernist exterior provided a sophisticated counterpoint to the exuberant bow-tie form of the bottle within.

The box was fitted with a long hinge that allowed it to open smoothly, and many examples also feature a brass fastener to secure the lid. Inside, the bottle rested against a carefully cut white card insert, which held it snugly in place and ensured the presentation remained visually crisp and uncluttered. For export markets, an even more ingenious feature was introduced: a metal support system designed to lift the bottle as the box was opened. This thoughtful addition not only enhanced the presentation but also made removing the heavy glass or crystal bottle far easier for the user.

As with the bottle itself, the Noeud Papillon box reflected Guerlain’s commitment to artistry and luxury in every detail. Marrying Frank’s minimalist refinement with the theatrical glamour of the bow-tie design, the presentation achieved a perfect balance of modern French design and perfume-world fantasy. Today, surviving examples of these boxes are prized by collectors not only for their rarity but also as works of decorative art in their own right.