Tuesday, July 30, 2013
La Poudre C'est Moi 1925
La Poudre C’est Moi, introduced by Guerlain in 1925, was more than a cosmetic—it was a statement of refinement, luxury, and a touch of audacity. Its name was inspired by the famous declaration of Louis XIV, the Sun King, who proclaimed “L’état c’est moi, puisque le Roi c’est moi” (“I am the State, since I am the King”). Guerlain cleverly transformed this royal phrase into a playful yet regal title for a face powder that sought to combine beauty, elegance, and French cultural grandeur in a single box.
The powder itself was ultra-fine in texture, a hallmark of Guerlain’s expertise in cosmetic formulation, ensuring a finish that was soft, flattering, and almost imperceptible on the skin. What set it apart, however, was its fragrance. Scented with Shalimar, Guerlain’s legendary oriental perfume launched the same year, La Poudre C’est Moi carried the house’s most celebrated fragrance into the realm of makeup. This fusion of scent and beauty ritual allowed a woman to envelop herself in Shalimar from head to toe, elevating powdering into an olfactory as well as visual experience.
A 1933 advertisement captured the essence of its appeal: “Thrice artful is the Shalimar Powder of Guerlain. The tint for you is so marvellously blended that your skin blooms afresh at its touch … with its texture so soft, so flattering that even in the glare of day the years seem to melt away … and it clings through the hours with a consistency that you will adore. Scented with the fragrance of Shalimar, it is the ultimate touch of elegance in the art of make-up. At all smart shops in six marvellously perfect skin shades.” With this promise, Guerlain positioned the powder as both practical and indulgent—long-lasting, youthful, and imbued with a sensual perfume.
La Poudre C’est Moi was available in six shades, carefully blended to harmonize with different skin tones, reflecting Guerlain’s growing attention to the diversity of women’s complexions. More than just a face powder, it was theatrical in name, luxurious in scent, and refined in finish, embodying the spirit of 1920s glamour while nodding to the grandeur of France’s royal past.
La Poudre C’est Moi was as much a visual tribute to luxury as it was a cosmetic innovation. The powder was housed in a cylindrical drum-shaped box, measuring 8.5 cm in diameter, a size that felt generous in the hand yet refined enough to slip gracefully onto a vanity. Unlike ordinary powders of the era that might come in plain tins, Guerlain ensured that this creation carried the same aura of majesty and artistry as its name.
The box was crafted from wrapped cardboard, but its surface was transformed into something far richer through a lavish embossed design in gold and black filigree. The intricate pattern suggested foliage and interlacing motifs in the Louis XIV style, directly evoking the ornamental splendor of the Sun King’s court. With its glimmering gilt elements set against a dramatic black ground, the design mirrored the grandeur of Versailles—an unmistakable nod to the monarch whose declaration inspired the powder’s name.
This careful marriage of utility and artistry made the container more than packaging; it was a keepsake, an object of luxury that reflected Guerlain’s understanding that beauty rituals extended beyond the product itself to the ritual of presentation. Each powder box became a miniature echo of French royal heritage, an ornament that linked daily makeup to a sense of cultural sophistication and timeless glamour.
After decades of absence, La Poudre C’est Moi was brought back to life in Christmas 2006, reimagined not as a simple face powder but as a luxurious finishing and highlighting powder. The relaunch transformed the product into a modern jewel of Guerlain’s heritage line, merging nostalgia with contemporary glamour. The formula itself was infused with violet fragrance, a classic Guerlain signature, lending a delicate, powdery floral veil that evoked femininity and refinement the moment the compact was opened.
This time, the powder was described as a “divine pressed powder” flecked with white sapphire sparkles, designed to catch the light and impart a luminous, ethereal radiance to the skin. Unlike the soft matte powders of the 1920s, the 2006 version celebrated the era’s fascination with shimmer and glow, making it ideal for festive evenings and holiday occasions. At 0.22 grams, the product was petite but indulgent, enhanced by its presentation.
The powder was housed in a glossy red compact, its surface adorned with an intricate gold filigree design, echoing the grandeur of Guerlain’s historical packaging while embracing a bold, modern color palette. The box included a face brush, elevating the product from a cosmetic to a complete luxury experience. Retailing for about $72 USD, it was priced as a premium limited edition—accessible to collectors and beauty lovers eager to own a piece of Guerlain history, yet rare enough to feel exclusive.
Rose du Moulin c1907
Rose du Moulin by Guerlain, created in 1907, is a charming reflection of the Belle Époque, a time when beauty products carried not only function but also wit and theatrical flair. This product was a rose-tinted pomade, designed primarily to rouge the cheeks, though it could just as easily be pressed onto the lips for a touch of color. Its dual purpose made it both practical and indulgent, a small luxury that fit neatly into a lady’s vanity case or evening bag.
The name “Rose du Moulin” is a clever play on words, referencing the legendary Moulin Rouge cabaret in Paris. Just as the Moulin Rouge embodied glamour, spectacle, and the thrill of modern nightlife, Rose du Moulin captured that same spirit in a pot of cosmetic color. Women who purchased it were not simply buying rouge—they were participating in the fantasy of Parisian sophistication and playful daring.
The label itself drove home this association, featuring a tiny image of the famous red windmill. It was both a branding detail and a cultural wink, instantly recognizable to those familiar with the Paris landmark. The presence of this motif tied Guerlain’s creation to the heart of Parisian style and entertainment, aligning the product with the allure of the stage and the vibrancy of city life.
In its day, Rose du Moulin would have appealed to the fashionable woman who wanted to highlight her natural beauty while also signaling her awareness of the latest cultural icons. It was more than makeup; it was a symbol of modern femininity, tinged with the romance and excitement of Paris nightlife.
The jars were produced by the prestigious Pochet et du Courval, longtime glassmakers for Guerlain, who ensured that even a small rouge pot was treated as an object of elegance. In its earliest incarnation, Rose du Moulin was presented in a striking emerald-green glass pot with a matching lid, the surface brought to life with gilded enameling that echoed the refinement of Guerlain’s perfume bottles. By 1914, the design was updated to clear glass. These later versions replaced the hand-painted decoration with a paper label wrapped around the middle, reproducing the earlier motifs in printed form—a practical solution that nonetheless preserved the charm of the original artistry.
Part of the allure of Rose du Moulin lay in its variety. Guerlain offered the rouge in shades tailored to different complexions, including versions “pour les brunes” (for brunettes) and “pour les blondes” (for blondes). Beyond these, the range expanded into a palette of evocative colors with names like Mandarine, Cattleya, Tulipe, Lilas, Soleil Levant (sunrise), Medium, Iris, Scarlet, Rose Camellia, and Tropical. Each shade carried not only a cosmetic function but also a poetic identity, allowing women to select a color that suited both their complexion and their mood.
Catalogued as item #600 in Guerlain’s stock books, Rose du Moulin was more than rouge—it was a piece of Parisian culture translated into a portable luxury. From its emerald-green beginnings to its later clear-glass editions, it stood as a symbol of beauty, wit, and the theatrical flair of early 20th-century Paris.
Monday, July 29, 2013
Shalimar Scented Fan c1999
This extremely rare Shalimar scented folding fan from 1999 is one of Guerlain’s most whimsical limited-edition creations, blending the house’s love of opulence with a touch of playful refinement. Most likely offered as a gift-with-purchase, it was never widely sold, making it an elusive treasure for collectors today. The fan itself carried the unmistakable aura of Shalimar, softly perfumed so that with every flick of the wrist a whisper of the iconic fragrance was released into the air—an elegant nod to the 18th and 19th century tradition of scented accessories that made fragrance both ornamental and functional.
The fan was housed in a presentation box of deep flocked midnight blue, an unusual choice that immediately set it apart from the lilac tones traditionally associated with Shalimar packaging. The rich velvet-like texture and darker hue gave the piece an air of luxury and rarity, as though it were meant to be kept and cherished rather than casually used. Adding to its charm, the box bore an ornate label design, a gilded and decorative motif that linked this edition to another special release from the same year: the alcohol-free Shalimar Silky Body Mist. By repeating this label, Guerlain created a subtle thread of continuity across its 1999 limited editions, enhancing their collectability.
The fan itself, imbued with fragrance, was both functional and symbolic—meant to refresh while also enveloping the wearer and those nearby in the sensuous trail of Shalimar. It evoked the romance of earlier eras, when fans were not only accessories of flirtation and style, but also discreet tools for wearing and diffusing perfume in public spaces. This 1999 edition reflects Guerlain’s ability to reinvent its heritage through unexpected objects, transforming something as simple as a folding fan into a vessel of luxury, history, and fragrance.
Les Coeurs de Chamade c1999
Les Cœurs de Chamade, released for Valentine’s Day in 1999, was a special limited-edition fragrance set that celebrated love, passion, and the enduring elegance of Guerlain’s perfume heritage. The set brought together two fragrances under one romantic concept: the iconic Chamade of 1969, a feminine creation by Jean-Paul Guerlain, and the newly composed Chamade pour Homme, designed as its masculine counterpart. Together, the pair symbolized the dialogue between two hearts—feminine and masculine—bound in harmony yet distinct in character.
The original Chamade, named after the French term for the quickened drumbeat signaling surrender in both battle and love, was a perfume of bold romanticism. It embodied the spirit of a modern, liberated woman of the late 1960s, blending green, floral, and oriental notes into a fragrance that was both tender and daring. By 1999, this fragrance had already established itself as a Guerlain classic, and its inclusion in the Valentine’s set underscored its legacy as a perfume of passion and surrender to love.
To accompany it, Chamade pour Homme was introduced as a natural evolution of the theme. Crafted with the same sophistication and attention to detail, it offered a masculine interpretation that balanced strength with sensuality. Its creation acknowledged the timeless bond of shared fragrance—an intimate gesture where partners could each wear a scent drawn from the same inspiration yet designed to suit their individuality.
Presented together, Les Cœurs de Chamade was more than just a fragrance set; it was an expression of Guerlain’s artistry in weaving storytelling with scent. The pairing invited couples to share in a scented dialogue, echoing each other’s presence through complementary accords. Released as a limited edition, it remains a collectible piece that highlights Guerlain’s ability to create perfumes that transcend time, becoming both personal talismans and cultural expressions of love.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does smell like? Chamade pour Homme is classified as a woody spicy fragrance for men.
- Top notes: bergamot and black pepper
- Middle notes: violet, hyacinth, green notes and nutmeg
- Base notes: precious wood, vetiver and leather
Scent Profile:
When first uncapping Chamade pour Homme, the fragrance opens with a luminous spark of bergamot, the classic Italian citrus prized for centuries in perfumery. Bergamot from Calabria is unlike any other citrus—it carries not only the effervescent brightness of lemon and orange, but also a floral roundness and faint herbal bitterness that comes from its natural aroma chemicals such as linalyl acetate and limonene. These compounds are responsible for that crisp, almost champagne-like fizz at the top, which instantly feels refined and elegant. Here, Guerlain lets this bergamot shine with clarity, while subtle modern synthetics extend its sparkle, preventing the fleeting freshness from evaporating too quickly. It feels like a bright opening chord struck in sunlight.
Just beneath the bergamot, a twist of black pepper emerges, its piquancy almost electric. The pepper, sourced from India, exudes an aromatic sharpness thanks to piperine, which lends warmth, and volatile terpenes like β-caryophyllene, which give a dry spiciness. The note feels alive, prickling the senses without overwhelming, acting as a bridge between the zest of the bergamot and the warmth waiting to unfold. It enhances the brightness, giving the fragrance not just freshness, but an immediate sensuality, the promise of something deeper.
As the scent warms on the skin, the heart reveals an unexpected softness. Violet leaf contributes a green, dewy freshness that is at once leafy and slightly cucumber-like, stemming from ionones, which naturally carry that powdery, floral-leaf balance. Guerlain amplifies this with carefully measured synthetics, lending a longer-lasting, transparent freshness that feels almost like inhaling the air of a shaded garden. Alongside it blooms hyacinth, a flower seldom used in perfumery because of its delicate volatility. Recreated here through a blend of natural isolates and synthetics such as phenylacetaldehyde and hydroxycitronellal, it has a crisp, watery sweetness tinged with subtle earthiness, like petals just unfurling in early spring. These floral nuances intertwine with green notes that suggest freshly crushed stems—galbanum-like facets, grassy aldehydes, and subtle leafy aromatics—creating a vivid picture of verdant growth.
Threaded through this greenery is the spice of nutmeg, sourced from Indonesia, whose warm, slightly resinous profile comes from compounds like myristicin and sabinene. Unlike the sharper bite of black pepper, nutmeg has a rounded, almost creamy warmth. Here, it balances the cool florals with a glow that feels both exotic and comforting, like sunlight filtering through the leaves. Its sweetness harmonizes with the violet and hyacinth, lending depth without losing lightness.
As the fragrance settles into its base, the precious woods begin to resonate. Sandalwood, likely sourced from Mysore or a carefully crafted synthetic reconstruction, offers its signature creamy, milky depth due to santalols, while cedar contributes its dry, pencil-shaving clarity from cedrol and cedrene. Together, they form a foundation that feels noble and grounding, the olfactory equivalent of polished wood paneling. Alongside this comes vetiver, most likely from Haiti, prized for its purity and balance. Vetiver oil is a complex tapestry of molecules—vetiverol, vetivone, khusimone—that lend earthy, smoky, and slightly nutty nuances. In Chamade pour Homme, the vetiver adds structure, like deep roots anchoring the brightness of the top and heart.
Finally, a subtle leather accord lingers, achieved not from actual hides but through a blend of birch tar and modern aroma chemicals such as isobutyl quinoline. It is both smoky and green, suggesting worn gloves and polished saddles, but softened to harmonize with the florals and woods rather than dominate. This leather note closes the fragrance with masculine elegance, evoking both strength and refinement.
Altogether, Chamade pour Homme feels like a scented dialogue between contrasts—light and shadow, freshness and warmth, nature and artistry. Each raw material, whether sourced from Calabria’s orchards, India’s spice fields, or Haiti’s vetiver plantations, carries with it a sense of place and character. Guerlain elevates them through careful use of synthetics, extending their natural beauty and weaving them into a composition that is at once timeless, modern, and deeply romantic.
Bottles:
The Les Cœurs de Chamade set of 1999 was presented with remarkable elegance, its design as carefully considered as the fragrances it contained. The centerpiece of the set consists of two crystal-clear glass flacons, each shaped into a concave half of Guerlain’s classic Chamade tear-drop silhouette. When placed together, the pair forms a complete heart, a symbolic gesture of union—perfect for the Valentine’s theme. The flacons are refined yet understated, their clarity allowing the liquid inside to glow softly, a play of light through curved surfaces.
Each bottle is crowned with a clear glass stopper, the name “Chamade” etched across the top in graceful, gold-toned lettering, a subtle yet luxurious detail that ties into the romantic presentation. The base of each flacon bears the “Guerlain” name, also rendered in gold, ensuring that the house’s identity is integrated seamlessly into the design. The proportions are generous yet balanced: standing 7.4 inches high and 3.34 inches wide, the flacons feel substantial in the hand, echoing the grandeur of Guerlain’s tradition of perfume bottle design.
The set is completed with a pearlescent presentation box, shimmering softly with an iridescent finish. On its front, the box is signed in gold pen by Jean-Paul Guerlain, adding not just an element of prestige but also a personal touch from the master perfumer himself. This detail elevates the set from a mere luxury item to a collector’s treasure, infused with both artistry and intimacy. Measuring 8.85 inches by 5.1 inches by 2.36 inches, the box cradles the two flacons perfectly, presenting them side by side as a mirrored pair.
Each bottle holds 30ml of eau de toilette, with one containing the feminine Chamade (originally launched in 1969) and the other the masculine Chamade pour Homme, created for this very edition. Together, the flacons represent a dialogue between two fragrances: the original romantic floral-oriental composition and its newly imagined woody-spicy counterpart. This pairing not only celebrated Valentine’s Day 1999, but also symbolized Guerlain’s ability to express love and harmony through both scent and design.
Roselip by Guerlain c1880-1910
Guerlain's Roselip, introduced around 1879–1880, was a delicate and refined lip preparation, a lightly rose-tinted balm designed to nourish, protect, and subtly color the lips. It was elegantly housed in a tiny Sèvres porcelain pot, reflecting both luxury and craftsmanship, and was available in two shades: a soft pink (#449) and a warm coral red (#450). The product remained popular for decades, continuing to be sold until around 1910, exemplifying Guerlain’s early mastery in combining cosmetic function with aesthetic sophistication.
The formulation of Roselip followed a typical 19th-century recipe for lip pomades or balms. Olive oil served as a deeply hydrating and emollient base, rich in fatty acids and antioxidants, which helped soften and protect delicate lip skin. Whale oil, commonly used at the time, added additional richness and a creamy texture that allowed the balm to glide smoothly. Sweet almond oil contributed soothing and nourishing qualities, maintaining hydration and imparting a gentle softness to the lips. White wax provided structure and stability, allowing the balm to adhere evenly without being greasy or runny.
The fragrant and functional elements further enhanced the experience. Roses infused the balm with a natural, floral aroma, while also providing mild astringent properties that could help tone the lips. Balsam of Peru, a resin with a warm, vanilla-like scent, contributed both fragrance and a subtle antiseptic quality, helping to protect minor cracks or dryness. Together, these ingredients created a product that was not only pleasant to use but also beneficial to the lips’ health and appearance.
From a safety perspective, these ingredients were largely benign for the skin. Olive and almond oils are gentle and nourishing, white wax is non-irritating, and the small amounts of rose and balsam served both aesthetic and mild protective functions. Whale oil, while less commonly used today due to ethical concerns, was not harmful and helped achieve a luxurious texture. Overall, the formula was nourishing, protective, and safe for regular application.
In practice, Roselip would have been applied daily or as needed, providing a subtle tint, moisture, and a soft sheen, enhancing the lips while also evoking a sense of refinement and elegance. Its compact size and beautiful porcelain container made it both a functional cosmetic and a collectible piece of luxury, perfectly in line with Guerlain’s reputation for combining artistry and utility in cosmetics.
Creme a la Fraise Pour le Teint c1880
Crème à la Fraise Pour le Teint, introduced around 1880, was an elegant facial preparation by Guerlain, often translated as “Strawberry Cream for the Foundation.” Housed in a white porcelain jar with a delicate strawberry-shaped finial on the lid, the cream was not only functional but visually charming. The jar itself bore the Guerlain emblem of the “woman with flags”, and inscriptions including “Guerlain Perfumer Patented SGDG” and the boutique address, “Rue de la Paix No. 15.” Crafted by A. Pillivuyt Foecy in France, the pot measured 2.36 inches in diameter, reflecting the careful attention to both design and luxury presentation that Guerlain championed in the 19th century.
The cream’s purpose was to moisturize and freshen the complexion. A small amount massaged onto the face provided hydration while imparting a soft, natural tint, making it a precursor to modern foundation creams. Its rich, emollient composition supported the skin’s barrier while offering a subtly fragrant, sensory experience.
The ingredients reveal both the practical and indulgent qualities of 19th-century cosmetics. Sweet almond oil served as the base, a gentle, nourishing oil rich in fatty acids and vitamin E, ideal for softening and protecting delicate facial skin. Water provided moisture, helping the cream spread easily, while white wax and spermaceti (a wax derived from sperm whales) added structure, creating a smooth, thick consistency that could adhere to the skin evenly. Lanolin, extracted from sheep’s wool, offered additional emollience and water-retaining properties, making the cream protective and soothing.
The fragrant elements elevated the cream into a luxurious ritual. Ripe strawberries contributed a light, sweet aroma and perhaps mild astringent properties. Tincture of benzoin, a resin, imparted a warm, balsamic note while providing mild antiseptic benefits. Oil of lemon and oil of neroli added bright, fresh citrus-floral accents, which lifted the sensory profile and subtly refreshed the complexion.
From a dermatological perspective, most ingredients were benign and nourishing for the skin. Almond oil, lanolin, and spermaceti were soothing and protective, while the waxes allowed the cream to remain in place without heavy occlusion. Benzoin and essential oils were used sparingly, adding fragrance and mild antiseptic qualities, though in higher concentrations they could cause irritation—fortunately, formulations of this period were balanced to avoid harshness.
In practice, Crème à la Fraise would have been applied before powder or other cosmetics, serving as both a moisturizer and a light tint to even out the complexion. Its texture, fragrance, and subtle color would have conveyed elegance, freshness, and sophistication to the user, reflecting the luxury and artistry of Guerlain’s 19th-century cosmetic traditions.
Creme Sid-Ous c1910
Crème Sid-Ous, introduced by Guerlain around 1910, was one of the house’s most enduring skincare preparations, remaining available as late as 1970. Marketed as both a hand and face cream, it carried a distinctive almond scent and was formulated as a white, rich emollient cream designed to soften, protect, and beautify the skin. Its presentation was as refined as its purpose: the cream came in a porcelain pot glazed in deep cobalt blue, paired with a matching porcelain lid. The vessel itself reflected Guerlain’s early 20th-century dedication to elegance and artistry, transforming even a humble skin cream into an object of luxury.
The composition of almond creams from this period was a fascinating blend of functional dermatological agents and fragrant embellishments. Powdered Castile soap, a gentle olive oil–based soap, was often added in minute amounts to act as a mild emulsifier, helping blend oils and water into a smooth cream. Powdered boric acid, valued at the time for its antiseptic qualities, lent a cleansing effect that was believed to prevent minor blemishes or skin irritation. Powdered gum tragacanth, derived from the sap of certain legumes, acted as a natural thickener, stabilizing the cream’s texture into a silky, spreadable consistency.
To ensure hydration, glycerin and honey were incorporated, both excellent humectants that drew moisture into the skin, leaving it plump and supple. Honey also carried mild antibacterial properties, making it as therapeutic as it was nourishing. The inclusion of egg yolk, rich in fats and natural lecithin, gave the cream a luxurious emollient quality, improving skin elasticity and providing a protective layer against environmental dryness.
A suite of aromatic tinctures and oils elevated the cream into a multisensory experience. Tincture of benzoin, warm and resinous, not only preserved the cream but also calmed and soothed the skin. Oil of bitter almonds imparted the cream’s signature marzipan-like fragrance, a note that immediately suggested comfort, softness, and care. This sweetness was balanced by the lively brightness of oil of lemon and the citrus-floral sparkle of neroli, lending freshness to the blend. Meanwhile, the addition of oil of cloves, with its spicy warmth and natural antiseptic properties, provided a subtle counterpoint to the otherwise soft profile.
From a dermatological standpoint, most of the ingredients were benign for their time. The humectants, emollients, and natural oils nourished the skin, while the antiseptic agents like boric acid and clove oil offered protection. However, boric acid, though widely used in cosmetics in the 19th and early 20th centuries, is recognized today as potentially irritating with prolonged use. Similarly, essential oils like clove or lemon could sometimes cause sensitivity, though they were included in very small amounts. By the standards of its era, Crème Sid-Ous was viewed as both protective and beautifying, a preparation that combined practicality with indulgence.
Ultimately, Guerlain’s Crème Sid-Ous was more than a moisturizer. It was a ritual of self-care, a cream that soothed the hands and face while enveloping the wearer in the nostalgic, comforting sweetness of almonds and honey. Its survival into the 1970s demonstrates its timeless appeal, proof that the marriage of effective ingredients with a luxurious sensory experience never goes out of fashion.
Lait de Roses c1910
Guerlain’s Lait de Roses, or “Milk of Roses,” was a toilet preparation for the skin, a type of cosmetic lotion designed to soften, brighten, and lightly perfume the complexion. Around 1910, it was offered in a refined pressed glass bottle crafted by Pochet et du Courval, a house long associated with Guerlain’s most elegant presentations. The bottle itself was an oval cylindrical form, its rounded belly divided into ten panels that caught and refracted the light. Standing 18 cm tall, it was closed with a simple cork stopper and finished with a richly baroque-styled label, its ornate design underscoring Guerlain’s reputation for marrying artistry with practicality.
The formula for Lait de Roses was both scientific and sensorial, embodying the fin-de-siècle balance between pharmacology and beauty. Salicylic acid, derived from willow bark, was included for its mild exfoliating and clarifying effects—it helped remove dull surface cells and keep the complexion smooth. Benzoic acid, often used as a preservative, also contributed to its cleansing qualities. Both were considered effective yet gentle enough for regular cosmetic use, though overuse of salicylic acid could cause dryness in sensitive skin.
The base of the preparation was rose water and glycerin, a soothing and hydrating combination. Rose water, long prized for its calming and toning effects, also left a delicate fragrance on the skin, while glycerin drew in moisture, leaving the complexion supple. To this were added alcohol and a suite of balsamic tinctures—Peru balsam, storax, and benzoin—all known for their antiseptic and healing properties. These resinous ingredients not only preserved the lotion but also created a subtle warmth in its fragrance, a soft backdrop for the floral oils.
To elevate the scent, Guerlain blended in a constellation of precious essential oils: rose, bergamot, neroli, orris, jasmine, and musk. Each lent its own nuance: rose for romantic powdery softness, bergamot for brightness, neroli for its citrus-floral freshness, orris root for its velvety, violet-like delicacy, jasmine for voluptuous sensuality, and musk for a lingering depth. Coumarin, discovered in tonka beans in the 19th century, added a sweet hay-like note that would have made the composition feel rounded and soft, while a solution of carmine imparted a gentle tint to the lotion, giving it a faint rosy cast that made it look as luxurious as it smelled.
Taken together, Lait de Roses was intended not only as a skin beautifier but also as a protective tonic, soothing minor irritations, perfuming the skin, and preparing it for powder or other cosmetics. By the standards of its time, the formula was considered benign and beneficial, a far cry from harsher skin treatments of earlier decades that often contained lead or mercury. Though today certain ingredients like musk (then natural, now banned in perfumery for ethical reasons) or balsams could pose allergenic risks, in its era Lait de Roses was seen as both safe and highly refined—a perfect example of Guerlain’s blending of dermatological care with perfumed luxury.
Rouge de la Cour c1910
Rouge de la Cour by Guerlain, introduced in the mid-19th century, represents one of the earliest examples of luxury cosmetics from the house. Remarkably, it remained in production well into the early 20th century, still appearing in Guerlain’s catalogs around 1910. In official listings it was sold under the name Court Rouge, but it became better known by the evocative nickname rouge en tasse, or “pink saucers.” In Guerlain’s stock catalog, this elegant little item was recorded as #434, a testament to its longstanding presence in the brand’s repertoire.
The pink saucers were also referred to as rouge de théâtre, pointing to their popularity not only among fashionable ladies but also with actresses who relied on bold cosmetics for stage appearances. The formula was simple yet effective: carthamus rouge (a vegetal dye extracted from safflower petals) or carmine (a pigment derived from cochineal insects) formed the base of the color. To give the mixture texture and adherence, it was blended with a few drops of almond oil for smoothness and nourishment, and bound together with the mucilage of gum tragacanth, a natural plant gum that provided a soft, gel-like consistency. The finished paste was carefully spread across small disks of porcelain or glass, creating the distinctive “saucer” presentation.
To apply the rouge, women had a variety of methods at their disposal. Some preferred the simplicity of using their fingertips, while others reached for a tiny puff, a scrap of flannel, a cotton swab, or a fine brush to blend the color onto the cheeks. The result was a flush of lively pink that mimicked the healthy radiance of youth and gave a fashionable brightness to the complexion. At a time when cosmetics were often controversial or associated with the stage, Guerlain’s Rouge de la Cour managed to tread the line between refinement and theatricality, capturing the allure of both courtly elegance and the daring world of performance.
original image from a Guerlain catalog
Saturday, July 27, 2013
Jardins de Bagatelle 1983
Jardins de Bagatelle by Guerlain, launched in 1983, is a perfume that captures the essence of Parisian elegance, opulence, and the joyful exuberance of a sun-drenched garden. The name—Jardins de Bagatelle, pronounced "Zhar-dan de Ba-ga-tel"—translates literally from French as “Gardens of Bagatelle,” referencing the famous Bagatelle Garden in Paris’ Bois de Boulogne, created in 1775 by the Comte d’Artois as a hunting retreat. The word bagatelle itself means “a trifle” or “a thing made for pleasure,” immediately evoking notions of delight, leisure, and indulgence. To the imagination, it suggests lush rose gardens, cascading blossoms, sunlight on sculpted lawns, and the playful charm of ornamental flowers. It is a name that conveys sophistication yet retains an air of whimsy—a fitting metaphor for a fragrance that is both radiant and luxurious.
Launched during the early 1980s, Jardins de Bagatelle reflects a period in perfumery known for bold, high-impact compositions. The decade was marked by excess and exuberance: fashion was characterized by strong silhouettes, bright colors, and an air of glamour; perfumes mirrored this with intense sillage and complex bouquets. Jean-Paul Guerlain created a fragrance for women who wished to celebrate both pleasure and seduction, offering a perfume that blossoms like an opulent floral garden and radiates joy, energy, and feminine sophistication. Women of the era, drawn to powerful floral scents, would have immediately recognized the fragrance as a statement perfume—luxurious, confident, and celebratory of the senses.
In scent, Jardins de Bagatelle opens with a sparkling, airy burst of white flowers, including neroli, jasmine, and gardenia, which impart luminous, radiant top notes. Neroli, distilled from the blossoms of bitter orange trees, gives a fresh, slightly honeyed floral lift, while jasmine offers a creamy, narcotic warmth, rich in indoles that enhance its skin-like sensuality. Gardenia adds a velvety, tropical depth, its natural coumarins providing a soft sweetness and texture. The heart of the fragrance is a bouquet of white florals over a base of tuberose, which, while historically known as “poisonous” in legend, here adds a captivating, aphrodisiac-like intensity. The tuberose is rich, narcotic, and radiant, lingering on the skin with an almost magnetic pull.
The base of Jardins de Bagatelle grounds the exuberant florals with woody notes of cedar, giving the fragrance structure, depth, and a subtle dry elegance. The combination of a radiant white floral heart and warm, slightly earthy woods exemplifies the 80s penchant for audacious, opulent florals, yet Guerlain tempers it with finesse, ensuring that the perfume is not merely loud but balanced, harmonious, and luminous.
Jardins de Bagatelle, in the context of 1980s perfumery, fits beautifully within the era’s trends of bold florals but remains distinctive through its complex layering, luminosity, and storytelling. It evokes a walk through the historic Bagatelle gardens, where every bloom is celebrated, and where pleasure and elegance are inseparable. More than a fragrance, it is a perfumed celebration of joie de vivre, offering women both a sense of power and a luxurious sensory escape—a true testament to Guerlain’s mastery of floral artistry.
From Guerlain:
So what does it smell like? The vintage version (1985-1989) is classified as a floral fragrance for women. It begins with a fresh flowery top, followed by a luxurious floral heart, resting on a floral woody base. Named after the legendary garden for lovers in Paris, this floral blend includes rose, tuberose, gardenia, magnolia, jasmine, neroli, absolute of orange blossom with a woody base.
Jardins de Bagatelle (vintage version 1985–1989) is a luminous celebration of white and garden-fresh florals, capturing the spirit of Parisian elegance and the opulent romance of the legendary Bagatelle gardens. From the very first moment, the top notes burst forth with a sparkling clarity. Aldehydes create a clean, airy shimmer, evoking sunlight glinting off dewy petals and lending a subtle soapy brilliance that enhances the natural floral ingredients. The flower calyx notes provide green, lightly vegetal nuances, as if you can smell the tender base of the blossoms themselves.
Launched during the early 1980s, Jardins de Bagatelle reflects a period in perfumery known for bold, high-impact compositions. The decade was marked by excess and exuberance: fashion was characterized by strong silhouettes, bright colors, and an air of glamour; perfumes mirrored this with intense sillage and complex bouquets. Jean-Paul Guerlain created a fragrance for women who wished to celebrate both pleasure and seduction, offering a perfume that blossoms like an opulent floral garden and radiates joy, energy, and feminine sophistication. Women of the era, drawn to powerful floral scents, would have immediately recognized the fragrance as a statement perfume—luxurious, confident, and celebratory of the senses.
In scent, Jardins de Bagatelle opens with a sparkling, airy burst of white flowers, including neroli, jasmine, and gardenia, which impart luminous, radiant top notes. Neroli, distilled from the blossoms of bitter orange trees, gives a fresh, slightly honeyed floral lift, while jasmine offers a creamy, narcotic warmth, rich in indoles that enhance its skin-like sensuality. Gardenia adds a velvety, tropical depth, its natural coumarins providing a soft sweetness and texture. The heart of the fragrance is a bouquet of white florals over a base of tuberose, which, while historically known as “poisonous” in legend, here adds a captivating, aphrodisiac-like intensity. The tuberose is rich, narcotic, and radiant, lingering on the skin with an almost magnetic pull.
The base of Jardins de Bagatelle grounds the exuberant florals with woody notes of cedar, giving the fragrance structure, depth, and a subtle dry elegance. The combination of a radiant white floral heart and warm, slightly earthy woods exemplifies the 80s penchant for audacious, opulent florals, yet Guerlain tempers it with finesse, ensuring that the perfume is not merely loud but balanced, harmonious, and luminous.
Jardins de Bagatelle, in the context of 1980s perfumery, fits beautifully within the era’s trends of bold florals but remains distinctive through its complex layering, luminosity, and storytelling. It evokes a walk through the historic Bagatelle gardens, where every bloom is celebrated, and where pleasure and elegance are inseparable. More than a fragrance, it is a perfumed celebration of joie de vivre, offering women both a sense of power and a luxurious sensory escape—a true testament to Guerlain’s mastery of floral artistry.
From Guerlain:
"Jardins de Bagatelle is for women who always perfume themselves for the pleasure of seduction as well as for their own pleasure and enjoyment. These gardens are redolent with a multitude of white flowers, varieties of rose, hyacinths, daffodils and narcissus of exceptional luminosity, to the great delight of anyone who loves nature.
Floral. Joyous, luminous, captivating.
Jardins de Bagatelle is an airy and luminous essence, a sparkling fragrance. The heart is a real bouquet of white flowers (neroli, jasmine and gardenia) celebrating joie de vivre over a base of poisonous tuberose underscored with woody notes. Jardins de Bagatelle blossoms over a tuberose base. This raw material also has aphrodisiac powers. In the time of Louis XVI, its scent filled the air in the King's court to identify any unwed pregnant women: these women would faint under the effect of this poisonous flower!"
Fragrance Composition:
- Top notes: aldehydes, flower calyx notes, lemon, violet, neroli, bergamot
- Middle notes: gardenia, jasmine, Provencal rose, orange blossom, tuberose, magnolia, ylang ylang, narcissus, orris, orchid, lily of the valley
- Base notes: cedar, vetiver, patchouli, musk, civet, benzoin, tonka bean
Scent Profile:
Jardins de Bagatelle (vintage version 1985–1989) is a luminous celebration of white and garden-fresh florals, capturing the spirit of Parisian elegance and the opulent romance of the legendary Bagatelle gardens. From the very first moment, the top notes burst forth with a sparkling clarity. Aldehydes create a clean, airy shimmer, evoking sunlight glinting off dewy petals and lending a subtle soapy brilliance that enhances the natural floral ingredients. The flower calyx notes provide green, lightly vegetal nuances, as if you can smell the tender base of the blossoms themselves.
Citrus top notes of lemon, bergamot, and neroli contribute a radiant freshness: bergamot from Calabria delivers sparkling brightness and sweet-bitter complexity, neroli from Tunisia or Morocco adds a honeyed, slightly bitter floral nuance, and lemon enhances the effervescence with crisp citric clarity. Violet adds a delicate powdery green softness, harmonizing the sparkling citrus and setting the stage for the heart.
The heart of Jardins de Bagatelle is a voluptuous floral bouquet, lush and multilayered. Gardenia brings a creamy, tropical floral richness, with natural coumarins providing soft, warm sweetness. Tuberose, highly narcotic in character, fills the air with its intoxicating, slightly animalic creaminess, the natural indoles lending a sensual, skin-like depth. Jasmine adds its opulent warmth, full of honeyed and indolic nuances, while Provencal rose contributes a velvety, dewy elegance, rich in geraniol and citronellol.
The heart of Jardins de Bagatelle is a voluptuous floral bouquet, lush and multilayered. Gardenia brings a creamy, tropical floral richness, with natural coumarins providing soft, warm sweetness. Tuberose, highly narcotic in character, fills the air with its intoxicating, slightly animalic creaminess, the natural indoles lending a sensual, skin-like depth. Jasmine adds its opulent warmth, full of honeyed and indolic nuances, while Provencal rose contributes a velvety, dewy elegance, rich in geraniol and citronellol.
Orange blossom absolute enhances the radiance, its soft, sweet, citrus-floral facets creating a luminous halo. Magnolia, ylang ylang, narcissus, orchid, orris, and lily of the valley layer additional complexity, with magnolia offering creamy floral lightness, ylang ylang lending exotic, slightly fruity warmth, narcissus adding soft animalic facets, orris giving powdery elegance, and lily of the valley contributing a transparent, green-floral delicacy. Together, these middle notes evoke the sensation of walking through a sun-drenched, fragrant garden, where every flower is at the height of bloom.
The base provides structure, warmth, and sensuality, grounding the exuberant florals with woody and resinous depth. Cedar imparts a dry, aromatic woodiness, while vetiver adds earthy complexity and a subtly smoky undertone. Patchouli contributes sweet, balsamic depth and a gentle, lingering warmth. The animalic accents of musk and civet enhance the skin-like sensuality, giving the florals a natural intimate trail. Rich resins like benzoin and the sweet warmth of tonka bean create a soft, enveloping finish, adding both longevity and a subtly gourmand nuance that contrasts beautifully with the brightness of the top and the richness of the heart.
Smelling Jardins de Bagatelle from first spritz to dry down is like strolling through a meticulously curated Parisian garden at the height of spring, where sunlight dances across petals, flowers release intoxicating, layered fragrances, and a gentle breeze carries the scent of earth and woods in the background. The vintage formula is rich, luminous, and balanced, showcasing Guerlain’s mastery of blending florals with green, citrus, woody, and animalic elements—each ingredient contributing its unique aroma chemicals, from the indoles of jasmine and tuberose that create narcotic depth, to aldehydes that amplify floral brilliance, to the balsamic and vanillin notes of tonka and benzoin that round and anchor the composition. This perfume exemplifies the 1980s floral powerhouse trend, yet it remains refined, elegant, and joyously expressive.
Jardins de Bagatelle, initially launched as an eau de toilette, quickly became more than just a fragrance—it evolved into a complete sensorial experience by the mid-1980s. Recognizing the desire for a cohesive personal care ritual, Guerlain expanded the line by 1986 to include a range of bath and body products, allowing the signature luminous floral bouquet to envelop the skin in multiple forms. Each product was carefully designed to echo the radiant floral composition of the original eau de toilette, ensuring a seamless transition from fragrance to skincare.
The Concentrated Bath Oil offered a luxurious way to immerse oneself in the fragrance. A few drops dispersed in warm water released the luminous notes of neroli, tuberose, jasmine, and rose, while the oils left the skin soft and lightly perfumed. Complementing this, the Body Shampoo allowed for a delicate cleansing experience, the foaming lather releasing the sparkling aldehydic top notes along with the creamy floral heart, while leaving a subtle trace of the woody base on the skin.
Body Lotion and Body Cream extended the fragrance experience further, providing a soft, silky layer of hydration while gently infusing the skin with the floral-woody bouquet. The lotion offered a lighter, more immediate scent for everyday wear, while the richer cream lingered longer, emphasizing the depth of patchouli, cedar, and tonka bean present in the base.
For those who preferred more traditional cleansing, Bath Soap delivered the signature scent in a solid format, pairing gentle cleansing with the luminous floral character, while Talc allowed for a delicate powdery finish, leaving the skin with a soft, radiant veil reminiscent of a stroll through the Bagatelle gardens at dawn.
Guerlain also introduced perfumed deodorant options: the Mist, Spray, and Eau Déodorante. Each provided a subtle, refreshing layer of fragrance, allowing women to carry the luminous, joyful floral bouquet discreetly throughout the day. These products ensured that Jardins de Bagatelle was no longer simply a perfume but a complete olfactory lifestyle, allowing women to experience the garden’s radiant blossoms from bath to body care, reflecting Guerlain’s philosophy of integrating luxury fragrance into every aspect of daily life.
The absence of an extrait (parfum) kept the line more approachable and versatile, focusing on luminous, wearable florals rather than an intensely concentrated statement. This made the fragrance ideal for layering across multiple products, giving women the freedom to customize the intensity of their Jardins de Bagatelle experience while maintaining a consistent, radiant floral aura.
Presented in the Jardins de Bagatelle flacon, designed by Robert Granai. The original bottle has a smoke tinted stopper and cap, later editions have a completely clear cap/stopper. The Jardins de Bagatelle bottle was manufactured by two glassmakers: Saint-Gobain Desjonquères and Pochet et du Courval.
But by 2013, this bottle was replaced by the bee atomizer bottle.
Abandoning the late 1960s- early 1980s white and black zig zag box design for the black and gold box design that began with the introduction of Jardins de Bagatelle, Guerlain adopted this design to package fragrances which became the signature box style for the rest of the 1980s up until the early 2000s.
The base provides structure, warmth, and sensuality, grounding the exuberant florals with woody and resinous depth. Cedar imparts a dry, aromatic woodiness, while vetiver adds earthy complexity and a subtly smoky undertone. Patchouli contributes sweet, balsamic depth and a gentle, lingering warmth. The animalic accents of musk and civet enhance the skin-like sensuality, giving the florals a natural intimate trail. Rich resins like benzoin and the sweet warmth of tonka bean create a soft, enveloping finish, adding both longevity and a subtly gourmand nuance that contrasts beautifully with the brightness of the top and the richness of the heart.
Smelling Jardins de Bagatelle from first spritz to dry down is like strolling through a meticulously curated Parisian garden at the height of spring, where sunlight dances across petals, flowers release intoxicating, layered fragrances, and a gentle breeze carries the scent of earth and woods in the background. The vintage formula is rich, luminous, and balanced, showcasing Guerlain’s mastery of blending florals with green, citrus, woody, and animalic elements—each ingredient contributing its unique aroma chemicals, from the indoles of jasmine and tuberose that create narcotic depth, to aldehydes that amplify floral brilliance, to the balsamic and vanillin notes of tonka and benzoin that round and anchor the composition. This perfume exemplifies the 1980s floral powerhouse trend, yet it remains refined, elegant, and joyously expressive.
2010 Version:
- Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, lemon, neroli, lilac
- Middle notes: Provence rose, jasmine, gardenia, tuberose, orange blossom, magnolia, ylang ylang, narcissus
- Base notes: patchouli, cedarwood, vetiver, tonka bean, benzoin, musk
Jardins de Bagatelle (modern reformulation, circa 2010) opens with a sparkling, luminous top that immediately conveys brightness and clarity. The aldehydes create a clean, shimmering veil, enhancing the freshness of the florals in a more linear, less complex way than the vintage formula. The citrus notes—bergamot from Calabria, lemon, and neroli—offer their familiar radiant brightness: bergamot brings a slightly bitter-sweet lift, neroli contributes a honeyed floral sharpness, and lemon injects crisp, sparkling effervescence. Lilac adds a gentle, green-floral softness, lightly powdery, which brightens the top notes but is less earthy and texturally nuanced than the violet and flower calyx notes found in the vintage 1985–1989 version. This modern opening is more immediately cheerful and radiant, but some of the subtle “green shadow” of a garden morning present in the vintage version feels softened or diminished.
In the heart, the modern formula still celebrates a lush bouquet of white and pastel florals, with Provence rose, jasmine, gardenia, tuberose, orange blossom, magnolia, ylang ylang, and narcissus forming the core. The Provence rose is soft and elegant, delivering a familiar floral warmth but with a cleaner, less opulent body than the vintage rose, which had more depth from geraniol, citronellol, and the Bouvardia base that added a subtle green-fruity nuance. Jasmine and tuberose remain narcotic and creamy, but in the modern formula they are slightly less dense; the indolic qualities are muted, so the scent feels brighter and more linear. Gardenia adds its creamy, tropical character, and orange blossom absolute continues to provide a luminous halo, though the addition of synthetics like hydroxycitronellal or a modern jasmine accord may give the florals a slightly more transparent, polished feel. Magnolia and ylang ylang bring gentle exotic facets, while narcissus provides its characteristic soft animalic and honeyed aroma, though again less rich and earthy than in the original. Overall, the heart is airy, cheerful, and opulent in a cleaner sense, less textured with leafy or green nuances than the vintage.
The base in the modern reformulation emphasizes smooth, polished warmth rather than the earthy complexity of the vintage formula. Patchouli, cedarwood, and vetiver form a woody backbone, but they are lighter, with less of the subtle dry earthiness or smoky undertones present in the original. Tonka bean and benzoin contribute a creamy, sweet balsamic richness, while musk rounds the composition with soft, intimate sensuality. The vintage formula had civet and subtle aldehyde-boosted earthiness, which lent the fragrance a more natural, garden-like depth; this is largely absent in the modern version. The overall impression is bright, radiant, and clean, with a polished floral-woody base rather than a complex, earthy garden floor character.
Comparison with the vintage version reveals that the modern Jardins de Bagatelle feels lighter, brighter, and more linear, with a luminous, almost airy quality. It emphasizes the sparkling florals and citruses, whereas the vintage 1985–1989 formula provided a richer, more layered experience: deeper green and powdery nuances in the top, more indolic, creamy depth in the heart, and earthy, animalic undertones in the base. In essence, the modern version favors clarity, brightness, and accessibility, while the vintage offers textural complexity, richness, and a sense of a real Parisian garden with all its natural intricacies. Both are beautiful, but the vintage feels like a walk through a sun-dappled garden with soil, leaves, and flowers mingling, while the modern feels like a sunlit bouquet in a crystal vase: radiant, joyous, and immediately captivating.
Product Line:
Jardins de Bagatelle, initially launched as an eau de toilette, quickly became more than just a fragrance—it evolved into a complete sensorial experience by the mid-1980s. Recognizing the desire for a cohesive personal care ritual, Guerlain expanded the line by 1986 to include a range of bath and body products, allowing the signature luminous floral bouquet to envelop the skin in multiple forms. Each product was carefully designed to echo the radiant floral composition of the original eau de toilette, ensuring a seamless transition from fragrance to skincare.
The Concentrated Bath Oil offered a luxurious way to immerse oneself in the fragrance. A few drops dispersed in warm water released the luminous notes of neroli, tuberose, jasmine, and rose, while the oils left the skin soft and lightly perfumed. Complementing this, the Body Shampoo allowed for a delicate cleansing experience, the foaming lather releasing the sparkling aldehydic top notes along with the creamy floral heart, while leaving a subtle trace of the woody base on the skin.
Body Lotion and Body Cream extended the fragrance experience further, providing a soft, silky layer of hydration while gently infusing the skin with the floral-woody bouquet. The lotion offered a lighter, more immediate scent for everyday wear, while the richer cream lingered longer, emphasizing the depth of patchouli, cedar, and tonka bean present in the base.
For those who preferred more traditional cleansing, Bath Soap delivered the signature scent in a solid format, pairing gentle cleansing with the luminous floral character, while Talc allowed for a delicate powdery finish, leaving the skin with a soft, radiant veil reminiscent of a stroll through the Bagatelle gardens at dawn.
Guerlain also introduced perfumed deodorant options: the Mist, Spray, and Eau Déodorante. Each provided a subtle, refreshing layer of fragrance, allowing women to carry the luminous, joyful floral bouquet discreetly throughout the day. These products ensured that Jardins de Bagatelle was no longer simply a perfume but a complete olfactory lifestyle, allowing women to experience the garden’s radiant blossoms from bath to body care, reflecting Guerlain’s philosophy of integrating luxury fragrance into every aspect of daily life.
The absence of an extrait (parfum) kept the line more approachable and versatile, focusing on luminous, wearable florals rather than an intensely concentrated statement. This made the fragrance ideal for layering across multiple products, giving women the freedom to customize the intensity of their Jardins de Bagatelle experience while maintaining a consistent, radiant floral aura.
Bottles:
Presented in the Jardins de Bagatelle flacon, designed by Robert Granai. The original bottle has a smoke tinted stopper and cap, later editions have a completely clear cap/stopper. The Jardins de Bagatelle bottle was manufactured by two glassmakers: Saint-Gobain Desjonquères and Pochet et du Courval.
But by 2013, this bottle was replaced by the bee atomizer bottle.
Abandoning the late 1960s- early 1980s white and black zig zag box design for the black and gold box design that began with the introduction of Jardins de Bagatelle, Guerlain adopted this design to package fragrances which became the signature box style for the rest of the 1980s up until the early 2000s.
Fate of the Fragrance:
Jardins de Bagatelle Eau de Parfum (2021) a reformulation. It is classified as a floral fragrance for women.
- Top note: bergamot
- Middle notes: tuberose, jasmine, neroli and gardenia
- Base notes: woody notes
Jardins de Bagatelle Eau de Toilette (2021) a reformulation. It is classified as a floral fragrance for women.
- Top note: bergamot
- Middle notes: tuberose, jasmine, neroli and gardenia
- Base notes: woody notes
Poudre aux Ballons c1918
In 1918, Guerlain introduced Poudre aux Ballons, a scented face powder that perfectly blended history, romance, and artistry. Released as part of the house’s centennial celebrations, it was more than just a cosmetic—it was a poetic tribute to Guerlain’s origins in 1828 and to Paris itself. Each powder was delicately perfumed with some of Guerlain’s most celebrated fragrances of the time, including the luminous L’Heure Bleue, allowing the product to bridge the worlds of makeup and fine perfume in one charming gesture.
The packaging was a miniature work of art. The lid displayed a trio of cherubic angels drifting dreamily from a hot air balloon, evoking lightness, whimsy, and the joy of ascension. Around the sides of the box stretched a panoramic illustration of Paris as it appeared in 1828, highlighting two landmarks that spoke directly to Guerlain’s story: the Arc de Triomphe and the house’s very first perfumery at the Barrière de l'Etoile. Above the cityscape, other hot air balloons floated gracefully, creating a sense of both festivity and nostalgia. The box itself, crafted of polychromed paper-covered cardboard, measured 2.8 inches in diameter by 2.1 inches tall—an intimate size that fit easily in a vanity or travel case, making it a personal object of beauty.
The imagery held a deeper significance than mere decoration. Guerlain drew inspiration from the balloon posts of 1870–71, when during the siege of Paris by the Prussians, hot air balloons were used as the first form of airmail to carry messages, news, and pleas for help beyond the city walls. Between September 23, 1870, and January 28, 1871, 67 balloons departed Paris, braving hostile skies to keep communication alive. By referencing this moment of resilience and ingenuity, Guerlain not only celebrated the spirit of Paris but also underscored its own enduring place in the city’s cultural history.
Poudre aux Ballons thus combined fragrance, art, and memory into a single exquisite creation. It was a powder meant not only to beautify the face but to remind its wearer of Guerlain’s proud past, Parisian innovation, and the timeless poetry of rising into the sky.
Thursday, July 25, 2013
La Petite Robe Noire Lingerie Mist c2013
La Petite Robe Noire Eau de Lingerie was launched in 2013 as an exclusive and playful extension of Guerlain’s beloved La Petite Robe Noire collection. Created by in-house perfumer Thierry Wasser, this limited-edition mist was designed specifically to perfume delicate fabrics—lingerie, silks, and dresses—bringing an intimate touch of luxury into a woman’s wardrobe. It was not merely a fragrance to be worn on the skin but a scented veil to accompany a woman’s most cherished garments, making the act of dressing a ritual of elegance and sensuality.
The composition itself is rooted in the signature La Petite Robe Noire fragrance, translated into a lighter, more ethereal interpretation suited for fabric. It opens with the juicy tartness of black cherry, whose natural aroma compounds like benzaldehyde and anthocyanins lend a fruity, slightly almond-like sweetness. This brightness is uplifted by a dash of bergamot, the prized citrus from Calabria, Italy, known for its refined balance of zesty freshness and floral sweetness thanks to naturally occurring linalyl acetate and limonene. At the heart rests the timeless rose, a cornerstone of Guerlain’s perfumery, releasing soft, velvety petals with notes of geraniol and citronellol that bloom against the air with grace and refinement. Together, these elements create a fragrance that is vibrant yet delicate, one designed to enhance rather than overwhelm fabric.
The packaging reflects the whimsical spirit of the La Petite Robe Noire line. The 100ml spray bottle is adorned with a charming illustration by Kuntzel + Deygas, the celebrated artist duo who also shaped the fragrance’s iconic advertising campaign. Their artwork captures the chic silhouette of the little black dress, evoking effortless Parisian style. Priced at 59 euros, it was positioned as an accessible yet sophisticated indulgence—an everyday luxury that elevated the simple act of wearing clothes into a perfumed gesture of allure.
More than a mist, La Petite Robe Noire Eau de Lingerie embodied Guerlain’s knack for weaving heritage, artistry, and modern femininity into objects of desire. It invited women to scent not only themselves but also their most intimate apparel, enveloping their daily rituals in a delicate aura of Parisian glamour.
Wednesday, July 17, 2013
Guerlain's Scented Flannel For Dali In Venice
In 1961, the avant-garde collided with the baroque when Salvador Dalí and Maurice Béjart collaborated on Gala, a ballet staged at La Fenice in Venice, later moving to Brussels’ Théâtre Royal de la Monnaie and Paris in 1962. Dalí envisioned it as a “théâtre total”—a work of art engaging every sense, from sight and sound to touch and smell. At the heart of this audacious experiment was perfume, employed not as a background flourish but as a central scenographic element. For this, Dalí turned to Maison Guerlain, who designed a bespoke perfume named Nébuleuse, its title alluding to Gala, Dalí’s wife and muse.
The staging itself was surreal. Gigantic barrels filled with Guerlain’s specially prepared liquid occupied the stage, releasing strange geometric soap bubbles infused with scent. These bubbles became a visible manifestation of the intangible—perfume made material, floating and dissolving into the audience’s space. Men in wheelchairs pulled the perfume through tall, crutch-like pulleys, blending theatrical absurdity with a sense of ritualistic ceremony. Guerlain’s fragrance was used not only for beauty but also for practical effect, masking the odor of a deliberately placed rotting carcass, one of Dalí’s provocative stage elements meant to jolt the senses into discomfort and contemplation.
This blending of olfaction with performance was unprecedented. It elevated perfume from mere adornment to an active participant in the narrative, embodying femininity and ephemerality as part of the ballet’s surrealist vocabulary. Guerlain, recognizing the publicity potential, embraced this unusual collaboration. Their luxurious product—ordinarily associated with refinement and intimacy—was transformed into an atmospheric device filling an entire theatre.
The experiment did not stop at the stage. Decca Records, which produced the recording of the performance, sought to extend the multisensory experience into the home. Though initially considering an olfactory tie-in that echoed the theatrical carcass, they wisely chose Guerlain’s more sophisticated contribution. With Guerlain’s cooperation, Decca included a scented flannel sachet infused with Vol de Nuit in the album packaging. The accompanying instructions—“In this envelope you will find a flannel to scent your lingerie”—linked the theatrical spectacle to private, intimate ritual. It was at once marketing, art, and sensorial immersion, reinforcing Guerlain’s identity as both innovator and guardian of luxury.
Monday, July 15, 2013
Shalimar Annees Folles 80th Anniversary Edition 2005
In 2005, Guerlain commemorated the 80th anniversary of Shalimar with the Années Folles "Crazy Years" Limited Edition Bottle, a celebration of both the perfume’s enduring legacy and the glamour of the Roaring Twenties. This special edition paid homage to the Art Deco era, reflecting the exuberance, elegance, and bold design that characterized the 1920s, the period when Jacques Guerlain first unveiled Shalimar in 1925. While the fragrance inside remained the iconic eau de parfum—unchanged and as timeless as ever—the presentation was reimagined to evoke the spirit of a century past.
The collector’s bottle is crafted from glass with a transparent gold finish, creating a luminous, sunlit glow that captures the eye and recalls the opulent visual language of Art Deco architecture and decorative arts. A gilded foil label further enhances the sense of luxury, delicately contrasting with the gold-toned glass to create a refined and elegant silhouette. This design evokes the shimmering sophistication of 1920s soirées, flapper fashion, and the era’s love of geometric, stylized motifs.
Offered as a 2.5 oz Eau de Parfum Spray, the Années Folles edition allowed collectors and admirers of Guerlain to hold a piece of perfumery history in their hands—a bottle that speaks not only of Shalimar’s timeless scent, but also of the exuberant, audacious era in which the fragrance first captivated the world. Through this edition, Guerlain linked the perfume’s olfactory legacy with visual storytelling, celebrating 80 years of elegance, artistry, and cultural impact.
Shalimar - Black Mystery Bottle 2007
In 2007, Guerlain unveiled Shalimar “Black Mystery”, a collector’s edition created especially for the holiday season. This release offered a dramatic reinterpretation of one of perfumery’s most legendary fragrances, Shalimar, not through a change in formula, but through the artistry of its presentation. Both the parfum and the eau de parfum concentrations were preserved exactly as they had always been, maintaining the enduring balance of bergamot, iris, vanilla, and amber that defined Jacques Guerlain’s 1925 masterpiece. What made this edition remarkable was the flacon—an object designed to be as memorable and precious as the perfume itself.
For the parfum, Guerlain partnered with Baccarat, whose crystal artistry brought the concept of “Black Mystery” to life. The resulting flacon was crafted in smoky black crystal, its sleek curves enriched with burnished gold accents that heightened the sense of opulence and drama. The bottle’s dark translucence seemed to conceal and reveal at once, echoing the sensual mystery of Shalimar itself. As a design, it took inspiration from Philippe Starck’s celebrated black crystal chandelier, bridging the worlds of fine perfumery and modern design while casting Shalimar as a jewel of rare, timeless allure.
Alongside the Baccarat edition, Guerlain also released the eau de parfum in a black glass spray bottle, ensuring that the mystique of this special edition was accessible in a more practical format, while still carrying forward the collector’s spirit of the release. Both flacons—whether crystal or glass—conveyed an unmistakable sense of modern luxury layered upon historical reverence. By cloaking its most famous fragrance in midnight tones, Guerlain gave Shalimar a new visual identity: seductive, mysterious, and contemporary, yet still inseparably tied to its legendary past.
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Guerlain's Talc de Toilette
Guerlain's Talc de Toilette was housed inside of a tin enameled in blue, off white and black.












































