Flacon Carre Plat Ruspini c1830

Ruspini’s Elixir for the Teeth and Gums by Guerlain, introduced around 1830, was presented in the elegant Flacon Carré Plat, a flat, square-shaped glass bottle typical of early Guerlain pharmacy and cosmetic preparations. The elixir itself was a refined blend rooted in 18th-century dental science and perfumery, formulated to strengthen the gums, freshen the breath, and soothe toothaches. Its composition included the root of Florentine iris—long valued for its delicate violet-like aroma and mild astringency—combined with cloves, known for their antiseptic and analgesic qualities. These were infused in rectified spirit, preserving the aromatic essence while providing a cooling, cleansing effect. The addition of ambergris lent a smooth, luxurious undertone, while camphor added a sharp, medicinal freshness. The ingredients were left to macerate for fourteen days, resulting in a richly scented elixir used both as a cosmetic and therapeutic dentifrice.

The scent of the elixir would have been distinctive—a mingling of warm spice, clean spirit, floral powderiness, and the subtle animalic depth of ambergris—a combination that was as elegant as it was functional. Its use would leave a pleasantly perfumed breath and a sensation of invigorated gums, consistent with Guerlain’s reputation for transforming everyday hygiene into a ritual of refinement.

The formula originated with Chevalier Bartholomew Ruspini (1730–1813), a noted Italian-born surgeon-dentist who established his practice in London and earned the royal appointment as Surgeon-Dentist to the Prince of Wales (later King George IV). By 1801, Ruspini’s name had become synonymous with oral care innovations such as his Dentifrice Powder, Tincture for beautifying and preserving the teeth and gums, and his Balsamic Styptic for stopping bleeding. The Elixir, later produced by Guerlain, drew from this prestigious lineage. Ruspini had claimed a surgical diploma from Bergamo and trained under Monsieur Catalan, a renowned Parisian surgeon-dentist. His legacy continued through his three sons, who all followed him into the dental profession, perpetuating the Ruspini name in early modern dentistry.

Thus, Guerlain’s Ruspini’s Elixir for the Teeth and Gums represented a meeting of medical craftsmanship and French perfumery, embodying both scientific efficacy and luxury presentation—a testament to the brand’s early role in bridging beauty, health, and elegant self-care.