Monday, September 19, 2022

Marquise D'Auberive c1893

Marquise D'Auberive, launched by Guerlain around 1893, embodies a connection to the theatrical and social elite of the time. The name “Marquise D'Auberive” directly references a character from Émile Augier’s play Les Effrontées. This character was portrayed by the renowned actress Madame Jane Hading at the Theatre Royal Drury Lane in 1893, with subsequent performances by Cécile Sorel.  The name may additionally reference Château d’Auberive, a historic French property with an 18th-century structure and notable gardens.  The title “Marquise” signifies a noble rank, and “D'Auberive” lends a touch of sophistication and aristocratic flair, combining to evoke an image of high society and genteel elegance.

The name “Marquise D'Auberive” is French, and it translates to “Marquise of Auberive” in English. The term "Marquise" itself conjures images of regal elegance, refinement, and a certain historical gravitas. It evokes a sense of aristocratic charm and the poised sophistication of 19th-century high society. The word "D'Auberive" adds an air of exclusivity and nobility, suggesting an individual of high standing and grace. Together, these elements create an impression of a fragrance designed for someone of distinguished taste and elegance.

In terms of scent, "Marquise D'Auberive" would likely be interpreted as a perfume of classic refinement and opulence. It would conjure an olfactory portrait of a noblewoman's sophisticated presence—perhaps featuring rich, elegant floral notes blended with opulent spices and warm, comforting base notes. The scent might have been designed to reflect the character's grace and allure on stage, capturing the essence of nobility and high society in a bottle.

Women of the period, especially those attuned to the latest in fashion and theater, would have related to a perfume named "Marquise D'Auberive" with admiration and intrigue. The late 19th century was a time when the intersection of theater, aristocracy, and fashion created a vibrant cultural milieu. Guerlain’s choice of name would have resonated with women who admired the character’s portrayal and wished to embody a touch of that aristocratic elegance. The perfume would be seen as a mark of distinction and sophistication, offering a way for women to align themselves with the glamour and prestige associated with the Marquise.

The time period in which Marquise D'Auberive was launched was one of great cultural and social dynamism. The 1890s, marked by a flourishing of the arts and a growing emphasis on personal refinement and style, saw an increasing intertwining of theatrical influence and high society. Guerlain, known for creating bespoke fragrances for nobles, celebrities, and royals, was adept at capturing the essence of contemporary cultural figures. The perfume may very well have been presented to Madame Jane Hading or another prominent actress of the time, serving as both a tribute and a means to capture the spirit of the character she portrayed.

By naming the fragrance Marquise D'Auberive, Guerlain paid homage to a prominent cultural figure while aligning the perfume with the aristocratic elegance of the time. The perfume would have been a symbol of high fashion and societal standing, perfectly in tune with the tastes and aspirations of the elite women of the 1890s.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? I have not seen an example of this fragrance yet and I am not sure what the notes would be. I would imagine it was a floral.


Bottles:


It was most likely contained in the Carre flacon like other Guerlain perfumes of the era.


Fate of the Fragrance:


Discontinued. Most likely only issued as a limited edition for a specific person.

Friday, September 2, 2022

Le Sacre des Orientaux Presentation 2005

The very rare “Le Sacre des Orientaux”—literally translated as “The Coronation of the Orientals”—is a sublime celebration of Guerlain’s most iconic oriental fragrances, released in 2005 as an exclusive limited edition. Only 69 sets were ever created, making this a true collector’s treasure. Each set contained three 20 ml perfume extracts: Shalimar, L’Heure Bleue, and Samsara, all housed in Romesnil crystal quadrilobe flacons. The stoppers were adorned with genuine Swarovski crystals, carefully threaded through the traditional baudruchage seal, a delicate wrapping reminiscent of Guerlain’s historic artisanal finishing techniques.

The attention to detail extended beyond the flacons themselves: each perfume was distinguished by a colored baudruchage cord corresponding to its olfactory identity. Samsara was tied with red, Shalimar with navy blue, and L’Heure Bleue with royal blue, reflecting the traditional colors historically associated with each fragrance. This subtle yet meaningful choice elevated the set from a display of perfumes to a ceremonial presentation of artistry and heritage.

The set invites a fully immersive experience. L’Heure Bleue enchants with its refined, sophisticated charm, captivating the senses with delicate floral and powdery notes. Shalimar wraps the wearer in rich, sensual warmth, its vanilla-laden heart evoking deep oriental allure. Samsara offers a smooth, elegant embrace, its sandalwood and floral composition a testament to Guerlain’s mastery of oriental perfumery. Together, these fragrances in the Le Sacre des Orientaux set celebrate the sophistication, sensuality, and elegance that define Guerlain’s legendary orient-inspired creations.






Guerlain's Talc de Toilette

 Guerlain's Talc de Toilette was housed inside of a tin enameled in blue, off white and black.