Flacon de Voyage (Travel Bottle) c1955-2002

The Flacon de Voyage (Travel Bottle), produced between 1955 and 2002, was originally introduced to house Eau de Cologne Ode. Its functional yet elegant design quickly proved versatile, and by the late 1950s it had been adopted as the standard presentation for Guerlain’s perfumed eaux de cologne in 100cc and 200cc formats. In 1959, the 200cc size became the definitive standard, solidifying the flacon’s role as a practical and recognizable part of Guerlain’s product line, holding eaux de cologne, eaux de toilette, eaux lustrale and lotion vegetales.

The bottle’s clean lines and durable construction were well-suited for frequent handling, making it ideal for travel, as its name suggests. Produced by Pochet et du Courval, five separate moulds were created over its production span, ensuring consistency across large-scale manufacture. Later, Saint-Gobain Desjonqueres took over, producing a single mould that continued the bottle’s legacy.

Packaging for the Flacon de Voyage evolved alongside Guerlain’s broader branding strategies. The earliest versions were presented in blue boxes accented with bands, a design that emphasized freshness and utility. Over time, this was replaced with a more streamlined white box, reflecting mid-century and later minimalist aesthetics while maintaining a sense of refinement.

Serving Guerlain for nearly half a century, the Flacon de Voyage represents both continuity and adaptability within the house’s history. It bridges the gap between practicality and luxury, offering consumers a reliable presentation for Guerlain’s eaux de cologne while embodying the timeless elegance associated with the brand.

Sizes:

Pochet et du Courval:

• Mould #19024 = 50cc/50ml/1.7 oz - (1962)
• Mould #18149 = 100cc/100ml/3.4 oz - (1955)
• Mould #18150 = 200cc/200ml/6.7 oz - 12,8cm (1955)
• Mould #19469 = 500cc/500ml/16.9 oz - (1965)
• Mould #19746 = 1 liter/1000ml - (1967)

Bottles had either smooth or ridged gold screw tops with white ring, later with black ring.

Saint-Gobain Desjonqueres:

• Mould #4970 (plan #36088) = 100ml (1981-1996) base engraved: "Guerlain Paris SGD  Bottle Made in France."

Eau de Colognes:

• Atuana
• Cachet Jaune
• Chamade (in 1969)
• Chant d'Aromes (in 1962)
• Chypre 53
• Fleur de Feu
• Jicky
• L'Heure Bleue
• Liu
• Mitsouko
• Ode
• Shalimar
• Sous le Vent
• Vetiver (in 1959)
• Vol de Nuit

Eau de Toilettes:

• Eau de Cologne Imperiale
• Eau de Fleurs de Cedrat
• Eau de Lavande 
• Eau de Verveine

Lotion Vegetales:

• Jasmin
• Jicky
• L'Heure Bleue
• Mitsouko
• Mouchoir de Monsieur
• Shalimar

After Shave:

• Vetiver (in 1959)
• Habit Rouge (in 1965)

Flacon de Guerre (War Time Edition) c1938-1945

The Flacon de Guerre (War Time Edition), produced between 1938 and 1945, was Guerlain’s pragmatic solution to the challenges posed by World War II. Made of clear glass, this vessel was nicknamed the “war bottle” because it became the standard container for exporting Guerlain perfumes during the conflict. Unlike Guerlain’s specialized and often elaborate flacons of earlier decades, the Flacon de Guerre was created as a uniform, practical option that could be adapted across multiple fragrances. Pochet et du Courval manufactured the bottle in seven mould sizes—10cc, 20cc, 30cc, 40cc, 82cc, 125cc, 250cc, and 500cc—allowing Guerlain to maintain production despite the extraordinary limitations of the time.

The necessity for such a standardized bottle arose from wartime restrictions and rationing. Access to specialty glass, decorative finishes, and even skilled glassmakers was limited, as many glass houses were appropriated for wartime production or disrupted by the Nazi occupation. By employing a simple, multipurpose flacon, Guerlain could continue distributing its perfumes while navigating these constraints.

The presentation was further simplified with paper labels printed in stark black and white, accented only by the iconic Marly horse in red. Labels were tailored in five proportional sizes, ranging from 2 cm x 1.2 cm for the smallest 10cc and 20cc bottles, up to 5 cm x 2.8 cm for the 250cc version. This pared-down aesthetic was a direct reflection of the wartime climate, when luxury had to be expressed in restrained and resourceful ways. Today, the Flacon de Guerre stands as a historical reminder of Guerlain’s resilience and adaptability during one of the most difficult periods of the 20th century.

Sizes:

• 20cc/20ml/0.676 oz (1939-1945)
• 30cc/30ml/1 oz (1938-1945)
• 40cc/40ml/1.35 oz (1938-1945)
• 82cc/82ml/2.77 oz - 10.3cm/4.06" (1938-1945)
• 125cc/125ml/4.2 oz (1938-1945)
• 250cc/250ml/8.4 oz (1938-1945)
• 500cc/500ml/16.9 oz (1938-1945)

Labels:

• 2cm x 1.2cm for the 10cc and 20 cc bottles
• 2.8cm x 1.6cm for the 30cc and 40 cc bottles
• 3.4cm x 1.9cm for the 82cc bottle
• 3.9cm x 2.2cm for the 125cc bottle
• 5cm x 2.8 cm for the 250cc bottle

Bottles:

Scents: 

• A Travers Champs
• Bouquet de Faunes
• Candide Effluve
• Champs Elysees
• Coque d'Or
• Fleur de Feu
• Fleur Qui Meurt
• Gardenia
• Gavotte
• Geranium d'Espagne
• Guerlilas
• Guerlinade
• Imperial Russe
• Jasmin
• Jasmiralda
• Jicky  
• Kadine
• Kriss
• L'Heure Bleue
• Lilas
• Liu
• Mitsouko
• Shalimar 
• Tsao-Kao
• Vague Souvenir
• Vega
• Verveine 

Flacon de Cave (Wine Decanter Flacon) c1830-1938

Guerlain’s Flacon de Cave, also referred to as the Flacon Chinois, is a quintessential example of early 19th- and early 20th-century perfume bottle design, in use from approximately 1830 to 1938. Typically produced in a generous 500 cc size, this bottle served as the standard vessel for a wide range of Guerlain products, including eaux de colognes and eaux de toilettes. Each bottle was accompanied by a label clearly indicating the product, reflecting both practicality and the house’s attention to presentation.

Crafted by the esteemed glassmaker Pochet et du Courval, the Flacon de Cave is characterized by its substantial form, often cylindrical or slightly tapered, reminiscent of traditional wine decanters, which may explain the alternate designation. Many examples were gilded, adding a touch of luxury and highlighting the elegance of the era’s commercial perfume containers. This bottle represents both the functional and decorative priorities of Guerlain during the period, combining a generous capacity with a refined aesthetic suitable for display in both domestic and professional settings.

Sizes:

• 500cc/500ml/16 oz - 21cm/8.27" (1830-1938), engraved with Femme Drapeaux on reverse until 1911 
• 125cc/125ml/4.2 oz - 16cm/6.3" (1911-1938)

Bottles:

Flacon Chauve Souris (The Bat) 1924

The Flacon Chauve-Souris (“The Bat”), introduced in 1924, is a masterful creation by Raymond Guerlain in collaboration with Baccarat, designed exclusively to hold the extrait of Shalimar. Its urn-shaped form, also referred to as “fan-shaped,” presents a bold yet elegant silhouette, with a fluted pedestal base that captures and refracts light, giving the crystal a sense of depth and vibrancy. The bottle was created for the Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes in Paris in 1925, a seminal event that helped define the Art Deco movement, positioning Shalimar not just as a perfume but as an object of modern artistic expression. Over time, the Chauve-Souris bottle was also produced by several other esteemed glasshouses, including Pochet et du Courval, Saint-Gobain Desjonqueres, Cristal Nancy, Verreries Brosse, and Cristal Romesnil, further cementing its reputation as a design icon.

Typically, the bottle features clear crystal paired with a blue glass or blue-flashed stopper, inscribed with “Guerlain Paris” in gold lettering. A rare variation exists with a plain clear crystal stopper, making it highly sought after by collectors. Early examples (1925-1936.) of the bottle had stoppers drilled at the base to allow the cording used in the finishing process—known as baudruchage—to be threaded through and wrapped around the neck, sealing the bottle. The loose, twisted ends of the cording is then carefully combed out during barbichage, or "bearding" and then brushed out by hand by the "dames de table" in a process known as brossage which results in a fanciful, fluffy tassel. The "dames de table" have perfected this method so that it only takes them four minutes at a time to finish the baudruchage ritual of each Shalimar flacon. Bottles made after 1936 no longer required drilling in the stopper, though the cording and metal Guerlain “G” seal continued to be used to ensure the bottle remained securely closed.

The Chauve-Souris bottle was presented in a luxurious lilac flocked hinged box, simulating velvet, with a tailored compartment ensuring the bottle rested perfectly inside. Collectors can identify the provenance and value of a bottle by checking the acid stamps on the base from Baccarat, Cristal Nancy, or Cristal Romesnil, or the entwined HP mark of Pochet et du Courval. 

Cristal Nancy closed its doors in 1931 and was acquired by Baccarat so if your bottle is marked with the Cristal Nancy logo, your bottle was made between 1925 and 1931. Cristal Nancy made bottles in similar sizes and capacities to those of Baccarat.

A very rare early detail noted by Roja Dove was the subtle violet iridescence on some stoppers, originally achieved through a mercury firing process, though Guerlain later clarified that mercury was never used in their stopper production.

The Flacon Chauve-Souris represents both technical innovation and artistic elegance, combining Baccarat’s precision glassmaking, Guerlain’s visionary design, and meticulous finishing techniques. Its introduction at the 1925 Exposition, along with the elaborate finishing rituals and luxurious presentation, underscores the bottle’s role as both a functional vessel and an objet d’art, capturing the glamour, craftsmanship, and sophistication of early 20th-century French perfumery.

By 1997, Shalimar was available in the following Chauve Souris sizes: 

• 7.5ml = 7.4cm
• 15ml = 10.2cm
• 30ml = 14.9cm
• 60ml = 16.4cm
• 125ml = 20.8cm

By 1997,  the 250ml, 500ml, 1 liter and 1.5 liter (39cm) sizes were only available by special order.

Although Shalimar is often credited as the first perfume to feature a pedestal base paired with a colored glass stopper, this claim is somewhat of a myth. As a perfume historian, it is clear that a very similar bottle had already been produced for Talis by Bourjois, created by Cristalleries de Saint-Louis in 1912. This same design was later used for the 1922 fragrance Miss Kate, demonstrating that the combination of a pedestal and a colored stopper predated Shalimar by more than a decade. While Shalimar popularized the style and firmly associated it with Guerlain’s iconic aesthetic, the historical record shows that the concept was not entirely original to this fragrance.

Baccarat created six moulds:

• 20ml/0.676 oz - 10.5cm/4.13" 
• 30ml/1 oz - 14.3cm/5.63 
• 15.5cm/6/10"
• 16cm/6.29"
• 125ml/4.2 oz - 20cm/7.87" 
• 22.5cm/8.85"

Cristal Nancy made bottles in similar sizes and capacities to those of Baccarat.

Pochet et du Courval created thirteen moulds:

• Mould #13694 -'fan shaped bottle' (1924, cancelled)
• Mould #14161 -'fan shaped bottle' (1927)
• Mould #17147 = 20cc - 'Shalimar bottle with raised base' (1948)
• Mould #17148 = 30cc (1948, changed plan to 3100/F in 1979 to 30ml)
• Mould #18008 = 10cc (1954)
• Mould #19131 = 60cc (1962, changed plan to 3899/D in 1978 to 60ml)
• Mould #19353 = 16.5cc (blue 'plastemeri' stopper with "Guerlain Paris" in gold)
• Mould #20584 = 2.3ml sample bottle (1972)
• Mould #22078 = 1/2 oz/approx 15ml (1978)
• Mould #23187 = 1630cc (1982, changed plan to 6207/B in 1982 to 1.5 liters)
• Mould #23814 = 2ml sample bottle (1984)
• Mould #24445 = 80cc (1986)
• Mould #26066 = 7.5ml (1991)

Saint-Gobain Desjonqueres created four moulds:

• Mould #5260 (plan #70935) = 7.5ml - 1.98cm/0.74" 'fine base' (Apr 1981)
• Mould #5141 (plan #30611) = 7.5ml  - 1.98cm/0.74" 'wide base', engraved "Bottle Made in France" (Oct 1981- Apr 1995)
• Mould #5127 (plan #70566) = 10ml/0.388 oz - 8.2cm/3.23" wide base, engraved "Bottle Made in France Net Cont 1/3 fl oz" (1981 to 1984) 
• Mould #4896 (plan#70500)  = 15ml/0.5 oz - 9.3cm/3.66" wide base, engraved "Bottle Made in France" SGD "Net Cont 1/2 fl oz" (1981 to 1986). Modifications to mould #4896: size of base, engraving, capacity. 

Other manufacturers: 

• 7.5 ml/1.25 oz - 7.4 cm/2.91" (1991) 
• 10cc/10ml/0.388 oz - 8cm/3.15" (1954) 
• 16.5cc/0.558 oz - 9.3cm/3.66" (1964, changed in 1978 15ml) 
• 20cc/20ml/0.676 oz - 9.6cm/3.78" (1948) 
• 30cc/30ml/1 oz - 10cm/3.94" (1948, changed in 1979 30ml) 
• 40cc/40ml/1.35 oz - 11.4cm/4.49" 60cc/60ml/2 oz - 15cm/5.91" (1962, changed in 1978 to 60ml) 80cc/80ml/2.7 oz - 18cm/7.09" 125cc/125ml/4.2 oz - 20.8cm/8.19" 
• Largest Parfum Bottle 50 oz - 15" tall (2001) - This size also used for factice.

Factice Bottles:

Guerlain’s Shalimar factice bottles are monumental display pieces created to showcase the fragrance in boutiques without containing actual perfume. The large factice, produced by Pochet et du Courval, stands an impressive 15.5 inches tall and 11 inches wide, with a foot measuring 7 inches across, making it a commanding presence on any display. Its design faithfully mirrors the iconic Shalimar bottle, allowing customers to appreciate the shape, proportions, and aesthetic details on a grand scale.

Even more striking is the giant factice, which rises to 17.5 inches tall, with a width of 12.5 inches and a depth of 5.25 inches. The interior of this colossal bottle is colored amber to simulate the appearance of the perfume, though it contains no liquid. Both factices served as visual merchandising tools, highlighting the elegance and luxurious design of Shalimar while protecting the precious fragrance itself. These oversized bottles exemplify Guerlain’s attention to presentation and marketing, transforming the perfume bottle into an object of spectacle and admiration.

Presentation Avion:

A particularly rare and fascinating variant of Guerlain’s packaging is the Presentation Avion (airplane transportation presentation), introduced around 1960 for Air France Paris–New York flights. This presentation was specifically designed to address the challenges of air travel, minimizing the risk of leakage while maintaining an elegant display. Unlike traditional boxes in which the bottle lay flat, the Presentation Avion featured a small plinth inside the box, allowing the perfume bottle to stand upright. The lid of the box then slipped over this plinth, creating a secure and protective cover for the bottle during transport.

In a further innovation, the stopper was not pre-inserted into the bottle but placed separately inside a tiny cardboard container included within the presentation, while the perfume itself was sealed with a cork covered in a thin plastic seal. This ensured the fragrance remained intact and unspilled, reflecting Guerlain’s meticulous attention to both practicality and luxury. Later editions of the presentation returned to the more typical layout, with the bottle resting in a cut-out within the box rather than on a plinth.

These Presentation Avion bottles were produced by both Baccarat and Pochet et du Courval, and collectors can identify them by the respective logos on the base, such as Baccarat’s symbol or Pochet’s entwined HP. This rare packaging not only demonstrates Guerlain’s innovative approach to fragrance presentation and travel solutions but also underscores the house’s dedication to combining elegance, function, and collectible appeal.

• 4 oz Baccarat bottle stands about 6" tall from base of bottle to top of cork (not including stopper)
• 2 oz Baccarat bottle stands about 4.75" tall from base of bottle to top of cork (not including stopper)
• 1 oz Baccarat bottle stands 3" tall from base of bottle to top of cork (not including stopper)

Flacon Chant D'Aromes c1962

The Flacon Chant d’Arômes, introduced in 1962, is a beautifully sculpted bottle created exclusively to hold the extrait of Chant d’Arômes. Produced by the renowned glassmaker Pochet et du Courval, this bottle is known as the “Grenadier” model, distinguished by its urn-like form resting upon a pedestal. The design incorporates a ruffled neck, adding a delicate sense of movement and elegance, and is further enhanced by an olive-green velvet ribbon tied around the neck, providing a tactile and visual contrast to the colorless pressed glass. One side of the bottle bears the fragrance name, elegantly titled, while the cylindrical stopper crowns the design with understated sophistication.

Over the years, production expanded to include Saint-Gobain Desjonqueres, demonstrating Guerlain’s dedication to precision and craftsmanship. Pochet et du Courval created six original molds for the bottle, while Saint-Gobain Desjonqueres produced a single mold, maintaining fidelity to the original design. The combination of these glassmakers ensured that the urn-shaped Flacon Chant d’Arômes retained its distinctive proportions, fine detailing, and high-quality finish across different production runs.

This bottle exemplifies Guerlain’s approach to perfume presentation during the early 1960s: sculptural and refined, yet functional and immediately recognizable. The urn silhouette, ruffled neck, and velvet detailing together evoke both classical elegance and mid-century refinement, creating a vessel that elevates the perfume it contains into an objet d’art. The Flacon Chant d’Arômes remains a celebrated example of Guerlain’s commitment to marrying artistry, luxury, and the unique identity of each fragrance.

The Flacon Chant d’Arômes bottles, like many of Guerlain’s extraits of this era, were all fitted with “plastemeri” stoppers—a practical yet ingenious design feature. These consist of small plastic cups that fit snugly over the ground glass stopper plugs. The plastemeri serve multiple purposes: they prevent the stoppers from becoming “frozen” or stuck over time, a common issue with glass-on-glass closures, and they also provide a more secure, stable fit, ensuring the stopper remains properly seated. This subtle innovation reflects Guerlain’s attention to both functionality and longevity, combining elegance with a practical solution that preserves the integrity of the bottle and protects the precious fragrance inside.

Sizes:

Pochet et du Courval:

• Mould # 19111 = 58cc/58ml/1.96 oz - 15cm/5.91" (May 1962-Feb 1985)
• Mould #19135 = 30cc/30ml/1 oz - 12,5cm/4.92" (1962, changed in 1979, used until 1988)
• Mould #19146 = 120cc/120ml/4.06 oz - 19cm/7.48" (1962, changed in 1980, used until 1983)
• Mould #19223 = 15cc/15ml/0.5 oz - 10,3cm/4.06" (1963-1980). 15ml/0.5 oz updated edition in 1995 
• Mould # unknown = Factice bottle - 47cm/18.5", ground glass stopper, only a few were made, Smooth base engraved "Guerlain Made in France" or "Guerlain Paris Made in France."

Saint Gobain Desjonqueres:

• Mould #4491 (plan #22166) = 30cc/30ml/1 oz - 12,5cm/4.92" (Sept 1976)

 

Bottles:

Flacon Chamade c1969

The Flacon Chamade, introduced in 1969, is a striking and modern expression of Guerlain’s commitment to sculptural design and artistic collaboration. Created specifically to house the extrait of Chamade, the bottle was designed by the French sculptor Maurice François, who for many years contributed his talents to Guerlain, designing window displays, decorative objects, and other visual elements for the house’s boutiques. François’s approach combined elegance with a dynamic sense of form, resulting in a bottle that is both visually compelling and unmistakably Guerlain.

Manufactured initially by Pochet et du Courval, the Flacon Chamade was later produced by Saint-Gobain Desjonqueres as well, reflecting the bottle’s enduring popularity and the need for high-quality glass craftsmanship. Pochet produced ten original molds for the design, ensuring consistency while allowing for subtle variations in production. Over time, minor modifications were made to the bottle’s height, subtly adapting the design while retaining its characteristic sculptural presence.

Ten moulds by Pochet et du Courval:

• Mould # 19926 = 45ml/1.52 oz
• Mould # 19928 = 18ml/0.609 oz - 12cm/4.72" (changed to 15ml/0.5 oz in 1979)
• Mould #19930 = 34ml/1.15 oz - 15cm/5.91" (changed to 30ml/1 oz)
• Mould # 19932 = 64ml/2.16 oz - 18,4cm/7,24" (changed to 60ml/2 oz)
• 120ml/4.06 oz - 22cm/8.66"
• Mould #20038 = 9,2ml/0.311 oz - 8,7cm/3.73" (changed to 7,5cm/2.95") 
• Mould # 20125 = 4.5ml sample size USA (April 1970)
• Mould #20586 = 2.3ml sample size with solid base (June 1972)
• Mould #23914 = 2ml sample size (April 1984)
• Mould # 23185 = 1640ml - 49cm/19.29" (April 1982)

Two moulds by Saint-Gobain Desjonqueres:

• Mould #4892 = 15ml (March 1978, produced only in January 1981) Base engraved: "Guerlain - Paris - Bottle Made in France"

• Mould #5139 (plan #70617) = 7.5ml (March 1980 until June 1984) Base engraved" "Bottle - Made in France"

By 1997, only four sizes of the Flacon Chamade remained in production, demonstrating both the bottle’s longevity and its iconic status within Guerlain’s repertoire. Its strong, clean lines, thoughtful proportions, and elegant interpretation of modernist sculptural aesthetics make it a standout example of late 20th-century perfume bottle design, marrying artistry with functionality in a manner uniquely suited to Guerlain’s image and the bold character of the fragrance it contains.

 

• 7.5ml = 10cm/3/93" 
• 15ml = 12cm/4.72"
• 30ml = 15.2cm/5.98"
• 60ml = 18.5cm/7/28"

Bottles:

Flacon Carre Bas de Forme (Low Square Form) c1880-1939

The Flacon Carré Bas de Forme (Low Square Form), also known as the “square short bottle,” was produced by Pochet et du Courval from around 1880 to 1939. Designed to house Guerlain’s eaux de toilette, eaux de cologne, and Lotion Végétale, this bottle exemplifies the practical elegance of late 19th- and early 20th-century perfumery. Its squat, square silhouette offered stability and a compact presence on the dressing table, while maintaining a refined geometric form that reflected the apothecary-inspired aesthetic common to the era. The low square proportions made it distinct from the taller Flacon Carré, offering both variety and functional efficiency for Guerlain’s diverse fragrance offerings.

Four molds were produced for this bottle, some featuring the engraved motif “femme drapeaux” on the reverse, a decorative detail that added subtle ornamentation and brand identity. Over its decades of production, the Flacon Carré Bas de Forme was fitted with a variety of glass stoppers to suit both aesthetic and practical needs. These included truncated (cut-off) stoppers, flat disk (disc) stoppers, and rounded ball (boule) stoppers. Notably, the larger sizes of 16.9 oz and 1-liter bottles, introduced in 1924, commonly featured the ball stoppers, emphasizing a balanced and proportionate design.

The bottle’s long production run ended in 1939 when the molds were destroyed, marking the conclusion of an era for this practical yet elegantly restrained design. The Flacon Carré Bas de Forme remains an important part of Guerlain’s historical output, illustrating the house’s ability to create bottles that combined functional durability with aesthetic refinement. Its clean lines, variety of stoppers, and subtle decorative touches make it a compelling example of Guerlain’s attention to both form and usability, bridging the practical traditions of 19th-century perfume bottles with the stylistic developments of the early 20th century.

Sizes:

• 130cc/130ml/4.4 oz - 15cm/5.91" 
• 332cc/332ml/11.23 oz - 19,5cm/7.68" 
• 500cc/500ml/16.9 oz - 23cm/9.06" 
• 1000cc/1 liter - 28cm/11.02" 

3 different stoppers: truncated (cut off), flat disk (disc), and ball (boule), (from 1924 for 16.9 oz and 1 liter) 

Bottles:

Flacon Carre (Square) c1879 - ?

The Flacon Carré (Square Bottle) is a quintessential example of 19th-century perfumery design, produced by Pochet et du Courval to hold Guerlain’s extraits (parfums), eaux de toilette, eaux de cologne, and Lotion Végétale. First appearing around 1879, the bottle’s apothecary-inspired square shape reflected the aesthetic norms of the period, favoring practicality, stability, and an elegant simplicity. Its clean lines and sturdy form made it suitable for both storage and display, while its versatility allowed it to accommodate a wide range of fragrances. The square silhouette also offered a perfect surface for labeling, with most bottles carrying the iconic “blason” or shield-shaped labels that identified the fragrance and emphasized Guerlain’s prestige.

Eight different molds were used to produce the Flacon Carré, some engraved with motifs such as “femmes drapeaux” or simply “Guerlain à Paris.” These engravings, subtle yet distinctive, reinforced the brand identity and added decorative refinement without compromising the bottle’s functional design. The Guerlain archives list between 45 and 500 shield labels associated with these bottles, with labels referencing the historic 15, rue de la Paix address dating from 1840 to 1913, and post-1914 bottles showing the updated 68, Avenue des Champs-Élysées address. Two molds were never intended for commercial sale but were instead used for laboratory blending, demonstrations, or display purposes: a 15 cc (15 ml / 0.5 oz) bottle from 1954, standing 5.7 cm (2.24"), and a 30 cc (30 ml / 1 oz) bottle from 1930, measuring 6.9 cm (2.72").

Commercially, the Flacon Carré was produced in a wide range of sizes to accommodate different uses, from smaller personal bottles to larger display or vanity formats. These included 70 cc (70 ml / 2.37 oz) at 9.5 cm (3.74") produced in 1875 and discontinued in 1939, 80 cc (80 ml / 2.7 oz) at 10.5 cm (4.13"), 125 cc (125 ml / 4.2 oz) and 250 cc (250 ml / 8.4 oz), both from 1879 at 11.5 cm (4.53") and 14.5 cm (5.71") respectively, and the imposing 500 cc (500 ml / 16.9 oz) at 19 cm (7.48") produced in 1880. This range highlights Guerlain’s thoughtful approach to both functionality and presentation, allowing the bottles to serve multiple practical and aesthetic purposes.

The Flacon Carré stands as a testament to Guerlain’s early commitment to craftsmanship and brand identity, combining utilitarian design with subtle elegance. Its apothecary-inspired form, careful engravings, and range of sizes made it a durable and recognizable container for the house’s perfumes and lotions, reflecting both the historical practices of 19th-century French perfumery and the enduring attention to detail that would define Guerlain’s legacy.

Sizes:

• Mould # 14490 = 15cc/15ml/0.5 oz - 5,7cm/2.24" (1954, never sold, for demonstration only)
• Mould # 18215 = 30cc/30ml/1 oz - 6,9cm/2.72" (1930, never sold, for demonstration only)
• Mould # 6691 = 70cc/70ml/2.37 oz - 9,5cm/3.74" (1875, discontinued in 1939)
• Mould # unknown = 80cc/80ml/2.7 oz - 10,5cm/4.13"
• Mould # 7384 = 125cc/125ml/4.2 oz - 11,5cm/4.53" (1879)
• Mould # 7385 = 250cc/250ml/8.4 oz - 14,5cm/5.71" (1879)
• Mould # 7952 = 500cc/500ml/16.9 oz - 19cm/7.48" (1880s)
• Mould # 7953 = 1000cc/1 liter - 22.5cm/8.85" (1880s)

Bottles:

Scents:

• Acacia (c1872)
• Acola
• Adem
• Agata
• Ai Fiori di Como
• Algerian Bouquet (c1872)
• Algerian Perfume
• Ambre (c1840- reform 1890)
• Ambroisie (c1840)
• Amyris Polyolens
• Anthaemia Nobilis (c1872)
• Apres L'Ondee (1906)
• Aquarella
• Arariba Violeta
• Aroma  (c1872)
• Aroma de Heliotropio (c1883 - reform 1889)
• Arome Synthetique de Peau d'Espagne (c1883 - reform 1889)
• Arsynea
• A Travers Champs (1898)
• Au Gout du Jour
• Aubepine (c1840)
• Ayapana (c1840)
• Bamia (c1872)
• Bananier (c1872)
• Belle France (1892)
• Bergamote (c1840)
• Bergamote et Rose (1873/1877)
• Bixa
• Bois de Cedre (c1872)
• Bouquet
• Bouquet de Chambord (c1872)
• Bouquet Aguado (c1872)
• Bouquet Anglais (c1840)
• Bouquet Borghese (c1872)
• Bouquet Cratorisky (1840)
• Bouquet d'Angleterre or Royal Perfume (c1840)
• Bouquet d'Ionie
• Bouquet d'Olympia (c1872)
• Bouquet d'Orient (c1872)
• Bouquet d'Osborne (c1872)
• Bouquet de Balmoral (c1872)
• Bouquet de Caroline (c1840)
• Bouquet de Chantilly (c1840)
• Bouquet de Cintra
• Bouquet de Flore (c1872)
• Bouquet de Floride (c1840)
• Bouquet de Jenny Lind (c1872)
• Bouquet de l'Exposition (1867)
• Bouquet de l'Honorable Miss Courtenay Boyle (c1840)
• Bouquet de l'Imperatrice (1853)
• Bouquet de la Comtesse d'Edla (c1873/1877)
• Bouquet de la Comtesse de Jersey (c1840)
• Bouquet de la Cour (c1840)
• Bouquet de la Duchesse (c1840)
• Bouquet de la Duchesse de Bedford (c1840)
• Bouquet de la Duchesse de Richmond (c1840)
• Bouquet de la Duchesse de la Marquise de Londonderry (c1840)
• Bouquet de la Princess Alice (1872)
• Bouquet de la Princess Clotilde (1872)
• Bouquet de la Princess Marie (1872)
• Bouquet de la Princesse Beatrix 
• Bouquet de la Reine (c1840)
• Bouquet de la Reine de Hongrie (c1872)
• Bouquet de la Reine Victoria (c1840)
• Bouquet de la Sierra Morena (1834)
• Bouquet de Lahore (1879/1881)
• Bouquet de Lord Elphinston (c1840)
• Bouquet de Magenta (c1840)
• Bouquet de Mouchy-le-Chatel
• Bouquet de Pierrefonds (c1872)
• Bouquet de Printemps (c1840)
• Bouquet de West End (c1840)
• Bouquet des Amazones (c1872)
• Bouquet des Bois (c1840)
• Bouquet des Dames
• Bouquet des Dames Anglaises (c1840)
• Bouquet des Hesperides (1834)
• Bouquet des Highlands or Scotia Flora (c1840)
• Bouquet des Rois (c1872)
• Bouquet des Soirees (c1840)
• Bouquet des Souverains (c1872)
• Bouquet des Sultanes (c1840)
• Bouquet Devonshire (c1872)
• Bouquet Dora 
• Bouquet du Bois (c1840)
• Bouquet du Chateau
• Bouquet du Comte D'Orsay (c1840)
• Bouquet du Duc de Buccleugh (c1840)
• Bouquet du Jardin du Roi (c1830)
• Bouquet du Marquis d'Abercorn (c1840)
• Bouquet du Matin (1834)
• Bouquet du Prince Albert or Prince Albert's Bouquet (c1872)
• Bouquet du Prince Esterhazy (c1840)
• Bouquet du Prince Imperial (c1840)
• Bouquet du Regent (c1872)
• Bouquet du Roi (c1834)
• Bouquet Elisabeth (c1872)
• Bouquet Imperial do Brasil (1879/1881)
• Bouquet Indien (1834)
• Bouquet Napoleon (1853)
• Bouquet Olga (c1872)
• Bouquet Princesse Amelie de Furstemberg 
• Bouquet Seymour (1873/1876)
• Bouquet Silveria d'Albuquerque (c1872)
• Bouquet Suave (1834)
• Bridal Bouquet 
• Brise aux Guepes
• Brises de Mai
• Calaba des Antilles
• Camelia et Vetiver (c1840)
• Canaga (c1872)
• Canaga Blanc (1879/1881)
• Caprice de la Mode (c1872)
• Caprice des Dames (c1872)
• Caprifolium (c1872)
• Caryophille Alba
• Caryophille Album (c1872)
• Cassie (c1840)
• Cedrat (c1840)
• Cedre
• Chevrefeuille or Honey Suckle (c1840)
• Choice Bouquet
• Chypre (c1840)
• Chypre de Paris (1909)
• Citron (c1840)
• Citron au Zest
• Clematite (c1840)
• Country's Flavour (c1872)
• Cuir de Russie (c1872 - reform 1890)
• Cyclamen (c1872)
• Cyotor
• Cyotor Argyrea (c1872)
• Cyparis Elaidon 
• Cyperus Ruber (c1872)
• Cyprisine (1894)
• Cytise
• Cytise Sylvaria (c1872)
• Daphne (c1872)
• Dar
• Delice du Prince (c1840)
• Derby Club 
• Dix Petales de Rose (1899)
• Double Distilled Lavender water (1828)
• Double Extrait d'Oranger 
• Dypterix Utilem
• Dypterix Oliphera
• E Pluribus Unum
• Eau de Miel ou Honey Water (1828)
• Eau de Portugal de Montpellier (1828)
• Eglantine (c1840)
• En Plein Seve
• Erochloa (1883/1889)
• Esprit de Fleurs de Cedrat (1830)
• Esprit Suave de Fleurs de Lavande (c1872)
• Essence Bouquet (1828)
• Essence de Alpine Strawberry 
• Essence de Blidah (c1872)
• Ether Floral (1883/1889)
• Euxis (1883/1889)
• Excellence (1890)
• Exposition de Paris (1873/1877)
• Extrait de Blidah
• Fantasie de Deauville (c1872)
• Far West (1873/1876)
• Fashion's Perfume (c1872)
• Fior d'Aliza (c1872)
• Fleur Qui Meurt (1901)
• Fleurs Ameres 
• Fleurs d'Amandier (c1872)
• Fleurs d'Andalousie
• Fleurs d'Italie or Fiori d'Italia (c1840)
• Fleurs d'Ophelia (c1872)
• Fleurs de Chine
• Fleurs de Lavande (c1872)
• Fleurs de Mai (c1872)
• Fleurs de Marie (c1872)
• Fleurs de Pecher (c1840)
• Fleurs de Serre (1879/1881)
• Fleurs des Alpes (c1872)
• Fleurs des Bois (c1872)
• Fleurs des Champs (c1840)
• Fleurs du Guildo (1883/1889)
• Fleurs Nouvelles (187/1876)
• Fleurs Sauvages (c1840)
• Flor de Antillas (c1872)
• Floxinia
• Fragrance (c1872)
• Fragrant Essence of Rondeletia (1828)
• Frangipane (1828)
• Fruits et Fleurs de Blidah 
• Full Scent
• Garafoli (c1840)
• Gardenia (c1872 - reform 1935)
• Gavotte (1897)
• Gazaki 
• Genet d'Espagne (c1872)
• geranium (c1840)
• Geranium d'Espagne (1879/1881)
• Geranium de Serre
• Geranium et Violette
• Geranium Rosat
• Gloxinia (c1872)
• Guard's Bouquet (c1872)
• Gyrasol
• Haidee
• Heliotrope (c1872 - reform 1906)
• Heliotrope Blanc (1879/1881)
• Heliotrope Blanc 000 (1883/1889)
• Heliotrope et Tubereuse
• Hymenaea Nitida
• Ikbal Bouquet 
• Iris Blanc (1883/1889)
• J'y Songe
• Jacaranda
• Jacinthe (c1840 - reform 1922)
• Jadis (1883/1889)
• Jasmin de Siam (1879/1881)
• Jeannine (1925)
• Jicky (1889)
• Jockey Club (c1872)
• Jonquille (c1840)
• Kew Garden Bouquet (c1872)
• Koleah (c1872)
• Lathyrus Odorans (c1872)
• Laurus Camphora (c1872)
• Lavande (c1840)
• Lavande aux Mille Fleurs (1828)
• Le Bon Ton
• Le Bon Vieux Temps (1902)
• Lilas (c1840)
• Lilas et Jacinthe 
• Lolium Agriphillium (c1872)
• Lys de la Vallee (c1872)
• Lys et Rose
• Magnolia (c1840)
• Mandarines
• Marechale (c1840)
• Marechale Duchesse (1873/1876)
• Marie Christine (1879/1881)
• Meadow Queen
• Melilot (c1840)
• Miel Ambre (c1840)
• Miel d'Angleterre or Honey Water (c1840)
• Mignardise (c1840)
• Millaleuca 
• Mille et Deux Fleurs (1883/1900)
• Mille Fleurs (c1840)
• Mimosa Esterhazy
• Mimosa Fragrans (c1872)
• Moskwskaia (1883/1889)
• Moss Roses (c1872)
• Mousseline (c1840)
• Musc ou Musk (c1840)
• Muskisette
• Myrthe Fleuri (c1840)
• Nec Pluribus Impar 
• New Bouquet (c1872)
• New Mown Hay (c1872)
• Nice Dear (1883/1889)
• Nuee Blonde (1883/1889)
• Ocean Spray Bouquet 
• Ocymum Dulce
• Oeillet (c1840)
• Oeillet 000 (1879/1881)
• Oeillet et Jasmin
• Olei
• Olium Acriphillum
• Opera Bouquet
• Opobalsam (c1872)
• Opobalsam de la Mecque (1873/1876)
• Opoponax
• Orange de Chine (c1872)
• Ordem E Progresso
• Ouridis (1890/1900)
• Paiba
• Pao Rosa (1873/1877)
• Parfum Albanais
• Parfum Bulgare
• Parfum de Castille
• Parfum de France (c1840)
• Parfum de la Maison de Lorraine
• Parfum de reggio
• Parfum de Roumelie
• Parfum de Habsbourg
• Parfum des Mauresques (c1872)
• Parfum des Princes
• Parfum des Soirees Italiennes
• Parfum Hongrois (c1872)
• Parfum Imperial (1853)
• Parfum Imperial Russe (1879/1881)
• Parfum Royal
• Parfum Slave
• Paris Caprice (c1872 - reform 1914)
• Paris Gem (1950)
• Paris Nouveau (1883/1889)
• Parnasse
• Patchouly (1928)
• Pepita
• Perfume de Manilla
• Persian Bouquet (c1872)
• Phlomis Asplenia (c1872)
• Plagia (c1904)
• Pois de Senteur or Sweet Pea (1840 - reform 1917)
• Polyante Suavolens (c1872)
• Pompei
• Portugal (1828)
• Pour Somnoler
• Pre d'Automne (1883/1889)
• Pre Fleuri (c1872)
• Pres des Haies
• Primaute (1883/1889)
• Primavera de Espana (1883/1889)
• Prince de Galles or Prince of Wales Bouquet (1842)
• Princesse Alexandra (c1872)
• Princess of Hesse's Bouquet
• Profumo di Frangipani (c1872)
• Pujio
• Pure Plain
• Quand Vient L'Ete (1910)
• Regina Marguerita 
• Republica do Brasil 
• Reseda (c1840)
• Reve du Jour (1883/1889)
• Rex
• Rita (1883/1889)
• Rococo a la Parisienne (1887)
• Rondeletia (c1872)
• Rose 91828)
• Rose a 3 Feuilles
• Rose Blanche or White Rose (c1872)
• Rose Conquete 
• Rose des Alpes
• Rose du Roi (c1872)
• Rose et Oeillet (1879/1881)
• Rose et Violette (c1872)
• Rose Mousseuse (c1872)
• Rose The (c1872)
• Royal Extract of Flowers (1828)
• Royal Perfume (c1840)
• Rue de la Paix (1908)
• Rup
• Santal (c1872)
• Senorita (1883/1889)
• Senteur de Soir (c1872)
• Senteurs de la Vallee 
• Shore's Caprice (c1872 - reform 1893)
• Sillage (1907)
• Skine (1885)
• Sornette
• Spring Flowers (c1872)
• Stalizia Grandiflora (1883/1889)
• Stephanotis (1879/1881)
• Suaveolens
• Super Dulci (1883/1889)
• Sweet Dear
• Sweet Flowers
• Syringa du Japon (1879/1881)
• Tacoma Gracilis (1883/1889)
• Take It (1883/1900)
• The Best
• Thymelia (c1872)
• Tillia Microphylla (c1872)
• Trevol (1883/1889)Tsao Ko (1898)
• Tsatli (1890)
• Tubereuse (c1840)
• Tume or Tum
• Un Bal Chez Flore
• Un Brin de Reseda
• United States Perfume (1879/1881)
• Unter der Linden
• Upper Ten
• Vakjoli
• Vanille (c1840)
• Vere Novo (1883/1889)
• Verveine (c1840)
• Vetiver (c1840)
• Violette a Deux Sous (1890/1900 - reform 1936)
• Violette Blanche
• Violette d'Alger (1879/1881)
• Violette de Nice
• Violette de Parme (1890/1900)
• Violette de Serre
• Violette des Alpes
• violette des Bois (c1840)
• Violette Meurtrie
• Violette Qui Embaume or Qui Embaume (1904)
• Violette Russe
• Voila Pourquoi J'aimais Rosine (1900)
• Volcameria (c1872)
• Wild Flowers of America 
• Ylang Ylang (1872)
• Ypana 
• Young Princess (1890/1900)
• Yssim

Flacon Etruscan c1900

The Flacon Étruscan is a striking example of Guerlain’s artistry in bottle design, created in 1900 to house the famed Lotion Végétale. Its form draws inspiration from classical urns, with an elegant silhouette that immediately conveys refinement and permanence. The body of the bottle is molded to suggest elongated daisy petals cascading over the shoulders, creating a gentle rhythm of vertical lines that soften the geometric solidity of the urn shape. The circular base is notched, adding a subtle decorative touch that balances the sculptural quality of the upper portion. Crafted by the renowned glassmaker Pochet et du Courval, the design was registered internationally in the same year, cementing its status as a distinctive creation of both Guerlain and the Parisian glassmaking tradition.

The glass inner stopper of the Flacon Étruscan is equally notable, covered with a gilded metal cap cast with foliate motifs and engraved with the signature “Guerlain-Paris.” The metalwork reinforces the sense of luxury and craftsmanship, while the gilding adds a warm, luminous contrast to the clear or lightly tinted glass of the body. Two versions of the bottle were produced: a luxury edition, with gilded enameling applied to the petals on the shoulders and the notched base, and a classic edition, where the gilding was reserved solely for the stopper cap. These variations allowed Guerlain to appeal both to clients seeking the height of opulence and to those desiring a more restrained elegance.

The Flacon Étruscan was made in three sizes: an 80 cc (mold #10769), a 90 cc (mold #10770), and a 250 cc (mold #11292) version, the latter standing 15 cm tall. This range ensured versatility for different applications, whether for personal use or as a prominent display on a vanity. 

The Flacon Étruscan exemplifies Guerlain’s ability to combine functional design with artistic flourish, creating a vessel that is both visually captivating and practical. Its sculptural quality, refined gilding, and floral motif make it a hallmark of early 20th-century perfume presentation, a testament to the house’s enduring dedication to elegance, craftsmanship, and innovation in the realm of luxury perfumery.

Sizes:

• Mould #10769 = 80cc
• Mould #10770 = 90cc
• Mould #11292 = 250cc - 15cm tall

Scents:

• À La Héliotrope
• À La Violette 
• Antique
• Aux Fleurs Ambrées 
• Chypre
• Jicky
• L’Éther Aromatique
• Ultra Fresca

Bottles:

Flacon Capsule c1920-1971

The Flacon Capsule, produced by Guerlain from around 1920 to 1971, represents a specialized and utilitarian design within the house’s extensive repertoire of glassware. Created by the esteemed glassmaker Pochet et du Courval, this clear glass bottle was exclusively used to house Lotion Végétale, a hair dressing introduced by Guerlain in 1900. The flacon accommodated various scented formulations of the lotion, including L’Heure Bleue, Jicky, Shalimar, Mitsouko, Chant d’Arômes, and others, each offering a fragrant experience beyond the perfume line. Unlike Guerlain’s more decorative flacons, the Flacon Capsule was functional by design, emphasizing practicality while maintaining the quality and refinement associated with the house.

The original presentation, launched in 1920, was molded under #13257 and held 250 ml (8.4 oz) of lotion, standing 14.5 cm (5.71") tall. It featured a ground glass stopper covered with a metal cap that employed a bayonet fitting, securing the contents while facilitating repeated use. Packaged in a distinctive blue-banded box, the flacon underscored the exclusivity of Guerlain’s hair treatments and mirrored the house’s attention to presentation and branding. This version of the bottle remained in production until 1955, serving as a reliable and recognizable vessel for nearly 35 years.

In July 1955, Pochet et du Courval updated the design under mold #18452, modernizing the bottle to include a gold or silver metallic screw top in place of the original glass stopper and metal cap. The screw tops varied slightly in size, resulting in bottles measuring between 12 and 13 cm (4.72–5.2"), a modest reduction in height from the earlier version. Alongside the structural change, the labeling of the bottle evolved over time: the original newspaper-style label, in use for 46 years from 1920 to 1966, was replaced by a more refined oval label, reflecting mid-20th-century design sensibilities. This final iteration was short-lived, as the Flacon Capsule was discontinued after 1971, marking the end of a long-running and unique line of Guerlain hair care presentation.

The Flacon Capsule illustrates Guerlain’s ability to combine function and elegance, maintaining the house’s signature attention to detail even in a utilitarian product. Though less sculptural than its perfume counterparts, it remained an essential part of Guerlain’s offerings, bridging the decorative artistry of the early 20th century with practical innovation in mid-century product design. Today, it is appreciated both for its historical significance and as a rare example of Guerlain’s dedication to specialized, purpose-built glassware.

Sizes:

• Mould #13257 = 250ml/8.4 oz- 14,5cm/5.71" ground glass stopper with metal capsule flacon, discontinued in 1955
• Mould # 18152 = 250ml/8.4 oz - 12-13cm/4.72" -5.2" - (1955) new size and with screw cap

Labels:

• Newspaper type label from 1920-1966
• Oval label used from 1966 to 1971

Bottles:

Scents:

• Ai Loe
• Antique
• Apres L'Ondee
• A Travers Champs
• Atuana
• Bouquet de Faunes
• Cachet Jaune
• Candide Effluve
• Chant D'Aromes 
• Chypre
• Chypre 53
• Coque d'Or
• Cuir de Russie
• Dawamesk
• Djedi
• Eau de Cologne Extra Dry
• Eau de Cologne Hegemonienne
• Eau de Cologne Imperiale
• Fleur de Feu
• Fleur de Guildo
• Fol Arome
• Guerlarose
• Guerlilas
• Guerlinade
• Heliotrope
• Jasmin
• Jicky
• Kadine
• Kriss
• Lavande
• Le Bon Vieux Temps
• L'Heure Bleue 
• Lilas
• Liu
• Mitsouko
• Ode
• Parfum des Champs-Elysees
• Pois de Senteur
• Pour Troubler
• Quand Vient L'Ete
• Rue de la Paix
• Santal
• Shalimar
• Sous le Vent
• Ultra Fresca
• Une Rose
• Vague Souvenir
• Vega
• Vere Novo
• Vetiver
• Violette
• Vole de Nuit
• White Rose

Flacon Canard c1914

The Flacon Canard, or Duck Bottle, is a whimsical yet exquisitely refined creation designed by Jacques Guerlain around 1914. Standing 9.4 cm tall, the flacon presents an amphora-shaped body of green glass, carefully modeled to evoke the standing form of a duck. Its gently curved, smooth contours capture both the grace and solidity of the bird, while the vibrant green hue imbues the bottle with a sense of freshness and vitality. This playful, nature-inspired design reflects Jacques Guerlain’s enduring fascination with integrating the beauty of the natural world into his perfume presentations, transforming a simple container into a work of art with striking visual presence.

The stopper and wings of the duck are crafted in bronze, a luxurious and durable material that contrasts beautifully with the luminous green glass. The bronze is finely worked, capturing the intricate texture of feathers in miniature, demonstrating an extraordinary attention to detail. This combination of green glass and warm bronze creates a harmonious and refined color palette, highlighting the house’s meticulous craftsmanship. The bottle stands as both a functional perfume container and a small sculptural objet d’art, blurring the boundary between utility and artistic expression.

The original perfume intended for the Flacon Canard remains unknown, and it is unclear whether it was a limited edition or a private commission. Only a few examples survive today, making it exceptionally rare and highly prized among collectors, valued as much for its artistic ingenuity as for its historical significance. Its creation at the dawn of the 20th century places it squarely within a period fascinated with decorative arts, when perfume bottles were conceived as extensions of beauty, elegance, and personal taste, rather than mere vessels.

Jacques Guerlain, a passionate enthusiast of art and history, is believed to have drawn inspiration for this design from antique works, including the porphyry eagle vases of medieval craftsmanship. The realism of the Duck Bottle, from the fluidity of its glass curves to the meticulous feathered bronze detailing, speaks to an extraordinary mastery of both form and execution. It is not only a rare collector’s item but a testament to Guerlain’s visionary creativity—a fusion of artistry, luxury, and the house’s signature elegance, securing its status as a standout achievement in perfume presentation.

Jacques Guerlain was a great art and history enthusiast, this bottle and it is certainly inspired by an antique vase of porphyry, "eagle" Suger.

This bottle was undoubtedly made ​​for a private commission and can be considered a work of art in its own right as its implementation is realistic and exceptional.

Flacon Brun Fume (Brown Smoke) c1933 -?

The Flacon Brun Fumé (Brown Smoke Bottle), first produced around 1933, is a striking example of Guerlain’s experimentation with color and material in the presentation of its extraits. Crafted by Baccarat, the bottle is made of rich brown smoked glass, giving it a warm, opaque elegance that contrasted with the clear and frosted crystal bottles more typical of the period. The coloration imbues the bottle with an air of mystery and sophistication, echoing the depth and complexity of the fragrances it contained.

This flacon was originally designed to hold some of Guerlain’s most evocative extraits, including Candide Effluve, À Travers Champs, and Guerlinade. The smoked glass not only protected the perfume from light but also created a sense of exclusivity, as though the bottle itself were a secret treasure to be unveiled. Its weight and tactile presence reinforced the impression of luxury, a hallmark of Baccarat’s craftsmanship.

Over time, the Flacon Brun Fumé became a collector’s item, prized both for its aesthetic appeal and its rarity. In 2007, Baccarat reissued Candide Effluve in this iconic brown smoked glass flacon as a limited edition, producing a 60 cc (60 ml / 2 oz) version, echoing the style and proportions of the original. The original 80 cc (80 ml / 2.7 oz) bottle measured 12.8 cm (5.04") tall, a compact yet commanding size that allowed the flacon to sit gracefully on any dressing table while maintaining its presence as a work of art.

Catalogued by Baccarat as flacon #744, the Brun Fumé remains a testament to the house’s capacity for both aesthetic innovation and functional elegance, combining protective design, visual richness, and refined craftsmanship in a bottle that is as memorable as the perfumes it contains.

Baccarat flacon #744. 

• 60cc/60ml/2 oz - (2007) 
• 80cc/80ml/2.7 oz - 12,8cm/5.04" (1933) 

Flacon Bouchon Quadrilobe (Quatrefoil Stopper) c1908-Present

The Flacon Bouchon Quadrilobe (Quatrefoil Stopper Bottle) is perhaps the most emblematic vessel in Guerlain’s history, earning its status as the house’s official “flacon maison.” First introduced in 1908 to hold the extrait of Rue de la Paix, it has since been used across the decades for nearly all of Guerlain’s great perfumes. Its enduring presence reflects both the timelessness of its design and the practicality it offered as a standardized bottle that could adapt to changing fashions and formulas while still retaining a sense of heritage.

The bottle takes its name from its distinctive stopper. The clear glass dome is molded with four rounded lobes, forming a stylized quatrefoil. Beyond its visual appeal, this design served a functional purpose: the grooves allowed the baudruchage cording—a silk-thread seal traditionally applied to Guerlain’s bottles—to be passed through and tied securely, ensuring the integrity of the fragrance inside. Originally produced with ground glass stoppers, the bottle later shifted to plastic closures in the 1960s and 1970s to accommodate modern manufacturing and broader distribution.

The production of the Flacon Bouchon Quadrilobe was entrusted to several of France’s most prestigious glassmakers, each contributing their expertise while preserving the bottle’s iconic form. Baccarat, with five known moulds, Pochet et du Courval with six, Saint-Gobain Desjonquères with two, BSN-Flaconnage with three, as well as the Romesnil and Brosse glassworks, and Cristalleries de Nancy, all took part in its manufacture. Though subtle differences in detail and finish can be detected between their versions, the overall design remained faithful to the original conception, ensuring the bottle’s continuity and recognizability over time.

Among these contributors, Baccarat held a particularly significant role, cataloguing the bottle as flacon no. 24, a designation that emphasized its prominence in their enduring collaboration with Guerlain. The Quadrilobe was made available in an extensive range of sizes, from delicate 7.5 ml miniatures, ideal as keepsakes or travel companions, to grand one-liter editions designed as showpieces, gracing elegant vanities and lending a sense of luxury to the dressing table.

While the bottle itself remained consistent, the labels varied. Most were decorated with Guerlain’s classic étiquette laurier, a motif bordered by laurel leaves symbolizing prestige and victory. However, for select perfumes such as Coque d’Or, Dawamesk, Liu, and Fleur de Feu, more modernist labels were chosen, reflecting shifts in design aesthetics of their respective eras.

Even as fragrance fashions evolved, the Flacon Bouchon Quadrilobe remained a unifying symbol of Guerlain’s identity. Its refined simplicity allowed the perfumes to speak for themselves, while the quatrefoil stopper added a note of quiet distinction. More than a century since its creation, it continues to be produced, bridging Guerlain’s Belle Époque origins with its contemporary presence, making it one of the most enduring icons in perfume bottle history.

In 1947, Baccarat reissued the classic bottle with its distinctive quadrilobe stopper, a design that was later also produced by Cristal Nancy. By 1997, this elegant flacon was being offered in larger presentation sizes of 250 ml, 500 ml, and even 1 liter. Originally, the quadrilobe stoppered bottle was created for the perfume Rue de la Paix, but it quickly became a standard Guerlain presentation. Between 1908 and 1912, it was used for several important launches: Une Rose (1908), Quand Vient l’Été (1910), Kadine, Pour Troubler (1911), and Vague Souvenir (1912). Up until August 1914, these perfumes were housed in the Baccarat version of the bottle, each bearing the distinctive “laurel” label printed with Guerlain’s address at 15 rue de la Paix.

The enduring use of the quadrilobe stoppered bottle required glassmakers to repeatedly adapt their original moulds, both for the bottles themselves and for their stoppers. Over time, the transition from traditional ground glass fittings to those with plastic seals (known as plastemeri) inevitably altered the bottles’ capacities and dimensions. With so many adjustments made, it becomes impractical to document every variation, as a single mould could be modified as many as five times for the same nominal capacity, resulting only in subtle differences in size. This pattern of continual revision also applied to other iconic Guerlain presentations, such as the heart-shaped stoppered bottle (Bouchon Cœur) and the fan-shaped, or “bat-wing,” bottle used for Shalimar. The five largest formats of the quadrilobe stoppered bottle remained identical to those produced by Baccarat. However, by 1997, Guerlain’s price list reflected a streamlined offering, listing only the smaller 7.5 ml, 15 ml, 30 ml, and 60 ml sizes.

The original Étiquette “Laurier”, or “laurel” label, used on the quadrilobe bottles, was a distinctive square-shaped paper label that featured the name “Guerlain,” the title of the perfume, and the address of the boutique, all framed within a decorative border of laurel leaves. This label was produced in three different sizes to suit the varying bottle formats: the large size measured 3.8 cm by 3.8 cm, the medium size 2.3 cm by 2.3 cm, and the small size 2 cm by 2 cm.

 

Sizes:

Baccarat:

• Mould #24 = 80ml/2.7 oz - 9,5cm/3.74"
• Mould #24 = 125ml/4.2 oz - 11,5cm/4.53"
• Mould #24 = 250ml/8.4 oz - 13,8cm/5.43"
• Mould #24 = 500ml/16.9 oz - 17cm/6.69"
• Mould #24 = 1 liter/1000ml - 22,5cm/8.86"

Pochet et du Courval:

There are modifications to the 30ml, 60ml and 125ml bottles in the 1980s.

• Mould #13613 = 10cc/10ml/0.338 oz - 5,6cm/2.2" (1924) : ground glass stopper, changed to plastemeri in 1962 (mould #19104).
• Mould #17077 = 10cc/10ml/0.338 oz - 5,6cm/2.2" (1954) : ground glass stopper
• Mould #17575 = 20cc/20ml/0.676 oz - 7cm/2.76" (1951) : ground glass stopper
• Mould #17275 = 40cc/40ml/1.35 oz - 8,5cm/3.35" (1949) : ground glass stopper
• Mould #19106 = 60cc/60ml/2 oz - 9,5cm/3.74" (1962) : ground glass stopper, changed to plastic stopper
• Mould #22120= 125ml/4.2 oz - 11,5cm/4.53" (1978) : crystal plastic stopper

Saint-Gobain Desjonqueres:

Engraved on the base "Guerlain, Bottle, Made in FRance, SGD."

• Mould #5140 (plain 70634) = 7,5ml/1.25 oz - 5cm/1.97" (1980-1987) : plastic stopper
• Mould #4952 (plain 24582) = 15ml/0.5 oz - 6,3cm/2.48" (1979-1986) : plastic stopper

BSN-Flaconnage:

Glass trademark etched on the base: "Guerlain Paris France, Bottle Made in France."

• Mould #7129 = 250ml/8.4 oz - 13,8cm/5.43" (1979) : plastic stopper
• Mould #7146 = 500ml/16.9 oz - 17cm/6.69" (1979) : plastic stopper
• Mould #7149 = 1 liter/1000ml - 22,5cm/8.86" (1979) : plastic stopper

Scents:

• Apres L'Ondee
• Bouquet de Faunes
• Candide Effluve
• Chamade
• Chant d'Aromes
• Chypre 53
• Coque d'Or
• Cuir de Russie
• Dawamesk
• Djedi
• Fleur de Feu
• Gardenia
• Guerlilas
• Imperial Russe
• Jasmin
• Jicky
• Kadine
• Lavande
• L'Heure Bleue
• Liu
• Mitsouko
• Mouchoir de Monsieur
• Nahema
• Ode
• Parfum des Champs-Elysees
• Parure
• Pois de Senteur
• Pour Troubler
• Quand Vient L'Ete
• Rue de la Paix
• Shalimar
• Sous le Vent
• Une Rose
• Vague Souvenir
• Vega
• Verveine
• Vetiver
• Vol de Nuit
• etc