Monday, August 19, 2013

Coriolan 1998

Coriolan by Guerlain, launched in 1998, is a fragrance that exudes strength, sophistication, and complex masculinity. Named after Gaius Marcius Coriolanus, the legendary 5th-century BC Roman general, the perfume evokes images of courage, nobility, and heroic devotion. The name Coriolan is pronounced “Kor-ee-oh-lahn” and immediately conjures a figure of power, honor, and passion—a man whose life was shaped not only by glory and ambition but also by love and devotion. Guerlain drew inspiration from this timeless figure, celebrated by Shakespeare, Plutarch, and Beethoven, to craft a scent that mirrors a man of contrasts: proud yet tender, bold yet seductive.

The fragrance was launched during the late 1990s, a period in perfumery characterized by an interest in complex, bold scents for men, blending classical elegance with modern intensity. This was a time when woody, chypre, and oriental compositions were particularly popular in the luxury market, yet Guerlain’s Coriolan distinguished itself through its narrative-driven inspiration, marrying history, heroism, and romance in a single olfactory signature. Women of the era would have interpreted a fragrance like Coriolan as a reflection of a man with character and depth—someone magnetic, daring, and irresistibly captivating.

Classified as a woody chypre, Coriolan unfolds with rich, earthy, and aromatic notes that suggest both refinement and raw strength. Its composition conveys a balance of power and seduction, echoing the legendary figure’s courage and devotion, while remaining grounded in modern sophistication. While other fragrances at the time explored similar masculine territories, Coriolan set itself apart by embedding historical narrative and heroic mythology into the scent experience, offering not just fragrance, but a story—a tribute to freedom of spirit, carnal pleasures, and timeless seduction.






Fragrance Composition:



So what does it smell like? Coriolan is classified as a woody chypre for men, the fragrance combines rich, earthy, and aromatic notes to convey a bold and sophisticated character.
  • Top notes: lemon leaf, bergamot, neroli and petitgrain
  • Middle notes: ginger, nutmeg, ylang-ylang and gorse
  • Base notes: patchouli, benzoin and leather

Scent Profile:


Coriolan opens with a vibrant, invigorating blend that immediately sets the tone for its bold, sophisticated character. The lemon leaf sparkles with a bright, green freshness, slightly tart yet sweetly aromatic, reminiscent of a Mediterranean garden just after dawn. Its natural aldehydic compounds lift the senses and bring clarity to the composition. Layered with Calabrian bergamot, harvested from the sun-drenched groves of southern Italy, the citrus adds a luminous, slightly bitter edge, distinguished from other bergamots by its sparkling brightness and clean, radiant peel aroma. The neroli, distilled from the delicate blossoms of bitter orange trees in Tunisia, introduces a soft, honeyed floral nuance, with linalool and limonene enhancing its gentle sweetness and adding a refined, slightly powdery elegance. Finally, petitgrain, extracted from the leaves and green twigs of the same orange trees, contributes a herbaceous, slightly woody freshness that rounds out the top notes with an aromatic clarity. Together, these opening notes form a lively, elegant prelude, crisp yet warmly inviting.

At the heart, Coriolan reveals a warmly spiced floral core. Ginger provides a sharp, piquant heat, with zingiberene and geraniol giving a spicy freshness that lifts the composition, while nutmeg offers a sweeter, earthy spiciness with hints of clove-like warmth. Ylang-ylang, sourced traditionally from Madagascar or the Comoros Islands, brings a creamy, tropical floral richness; its high ester content adds both warmth and sensuality, bridging the spice with the floral character. Accenting this floral heart is gorse, a flowering shrub whose bright, yellow blossoms impart a subtly green and honeyed note, evoking the rugged, sunlit landscapes of southern Europe. The middle notes, aromatic and warm, deepen the fragrance while maintaining an airy elegance that complements the powerful, heroic aura suggested by the name.

The base is where Coriolan truly asserts its masculinity and depth. Patchouli, sourced from Indonesia, brings a dark, earthy, and slightly leathery foundation, its rich terpenes and phenolic compounds giving the fragrance an enduring, grounded sensuality. Benzoin, a resin from Southeast Asia, adds a warm, balsamic sweetness, lifting the base with vanillin-like tones that soften the rugged edges. Finally, leather notes provide a smoky, animalic undertone, evoking nobility and strength, perfectly echoing the heroic inspiration of Coriolanus. The interplay of these base notes with the aromatic top and spiced heart creates a fragrance that is simultaneously vibrant, bold, and deeply sophisticated—an olfactory embodiment of courage, refinement, and enduring allure.

Coriolan, from first impression to dry-down, is a narrative in scent: the sharp freshness of citrus and green leaves, the enticing warmth of spices and flowers, and the grounded, heroic richness of patchouli, benzoin, and leather come together to tell a story of strength, passion, and refined masculinity.



Bottle:



The Coriolan bottle is a striking synthesis of history and modern design, conceived by Jean-Paul Guerlain in collaboration with Robert Granai. Its form evokes the silhouette of a 19th-century copper gunpowder flask, a subtle nod to the heroic and martial inspiration behind the fragrance. Crafted in clear glass, the bottle showcases both the warm golden hue of the perfume and the elegance of its minimalistic lines, while the bronze mountings—adorning the top, curves, and sides—lend a stately, almost armor-like quality that reinforces the fragrance’s masculine narrative. The interplay of smooth glass and metallic bronze creates a tactile experience that feels weighty, solid, and undeniably luxurious.

Coriolan was presented in 50 and 100 ml Eau de Toilette formats, complemented by a thoughtfully curated cosmetic line including lotion, aftershave, shampoo, deodorant, and bath cream, allowing the wearer to immerse fully in the signature scent. In 1999, Guerlain introduced a limited edition “Edition Cuir”, in which the bottle was encased in a rich leather sleeve, further accentuating its noble, warrior-like character and adding an additional layer of tactile sophistication. This presentation emphasized the fragrance’s narrative of strength, refinement, and heroism, making the bottle itself a collectible object, as much a statement of style as a vessel for scent.

The combination of historic inspiration, meticulous craftsmanship, and luxurious materials transforms the Coriolan bottle into more than just packaging—it becomes an extension of the fragrance’s identity: bold, elegant, and resolutely masculine, a tangible representation of the heroic spirit that inspired Jean-Paul Guerlain’s creation.

photo by ebay seller agoodheartcares



Fate of the Fragrance:



L’Âme d’un Héros, launched in 2008, represents the rebirth and reinterpretation of Guerlain’s 1998 creation, Coriolan. While Coriolan drew inspiration from the legendary Roman general Coriolanus—celebrated for his valor, heroism, and the intensity of his passions—L’Âme d’un Héros extends that narrative, framing the fragrance as a modern ode to courage, strength, and the heroic spirit. In renaming the perfume, Guerlain emphasizes the soul behind heroism: “L’Âme d’un Héros” translates from French as “The Soul of a Hero” (pronounced “lahm dun ay-ro”), evoking images of steadfastness, daring, and noble purpose. The name suggests a fragrance that is both profound and aspirational, appealing to men drawn to qualities of bravery and refined audacity.

The fragrance was presented in distinctive, collectible flacons, including the La Parisiennes bee bottle, which adds a luxurious, emblematic touch of Guerlain heritage, and the wood-framed Arsène Lupin edition, whose design conjures the cleverness, charm, and daring escapades of the famed literary gentleman thief. Each flacon communicates not only the olfactory richness within but also the narrative of adventure, heroism, and elegance that underpins the perfume.

L’Âme d’un Héros retains the bold, woody-chypre character of Coriolan, encapsulating strength, valor, and sophistication in scent. Its relaunch underscores Guerlain’s dedication to honoring past creations while presenting them with renewed context, design, and narrative depth. The perfume is a modern-day homage to timeless heroism, translating historical legend into a contemporary, wearable expression of courage and masculine refinement.


Fragrance Composition:



So what does it smell like? L’Âme d’un Héros is classified as a citrus aromatic fragrance for men.
  • Top notes: sage, neroli, bergamot and lemon
  • Middle note: wormwood (absinthe), cypress, juniper berries, basil and ylang-ylang
  • Base notes: amber, patchouli, everlasting flower, balsamic notes, woodsy notes and vetiver

Scent Profile:


L’Âme d’un Héros opens with a luminous, invigorating top accord that immediately awakens the senses. The bergamot, sourced from Calabria in southern Italy, radiates a bright, zesty spiciness tinged with a subtle bitterness that energizes the opening. Its essential oils are prized for their clarity and freshness, naturally rich in limonene, which gives the scent a sparkling citrus edge. Lemon, also Italian in origin, contributes an even sharper, sunlit facet, cutting through the richer elements that follow. Layered atop these, neroli, distilled from the delicate white blossoms of bitter orange trees grown in Tunisia, adds a honeyed floral sweetness with subtle green and metallic nuances. Sage completes the top accord with its aromatic, slightly camphoraceous herbal tone, imparting a soft, masculine smokiness that balances the sparkling citrus facets.

As the fragrance settles, the heart reveals a bold herbal-woody complexity. Wormwood (absinthe) provides a green, slightly aniseed sharpness, evoking both intrigue and sophistication, while cypress adds a resinous, forest-like depth that carries hints of pine and eucalyptus. The juniper berries, sourced from Europe’s alpine regions, contribute a crisp, resinous spiciness, lending a lively freshness that evokes a misty, aromatic landscape. Basil brings a sweet, camphoraceous herbal edge, enhancing the aromatic clarity, while ylang-ylang, sourced from Madagascar, offers a rich, tropical floral facet with soft fruity undertones, creating a bridge between the herbal intensity and the warmth of the base.

In the base, the fragrance deepens into a warm, grounding embrace. Amber brings a sweet, resinous richness, harmonizing with the earthy, slightly spicy tones of patchouli, whose Indonesian origin ensures a dark, leathery depth enriched with patchoulol and other aromatic terpenes. Everlasting flower (immortelle) contributes a honeyed, slightly curry-like nuance that reinforces the fragrance’s aromatic warmth. Balsamic notes, a soft blend of resins, add a comforting richness, while woodsy notes and vetiver, particularly Haitian vetiver, give a dry, smoky earthiness with woody overtones and nuanced vetiverol esters that enhance longevity and complexity.

Together, these notes form a modern aromatic citrus composition that balances freshness with herbal intrigue and a warm, grounded base. The synthetic elements subtly enhance the natural ingredients: stabilizing the volatile top notes like bergamot and lemon, amplifying the luminous facets of neroli, and deepening the longevity of the base woods and balsams, creating a seamless olfactory journey that is simultaneously fresh, complex, and enduring—a fragrance designed for the contemporary man who embodies courage, sophistication, and refined sensuality.

Monday, August 12, 2013

Verveine Savon Pour le Bain c1930

This vintage 1930s Guerlain Verveine Savon Pour le Bain is a remarkable survivor from the golden age of perfumery, exuding the elegance and refinement that defined Guerlain’s presentation during the Art Deco era. The box, still in its original untouched packaging, immediately captures attention with its geometric symmetry and stylized design, reminiscent of the Vega perfume presentation from the same period. Its structure—an octagonal shape measuring 4 inches across and 4 inches high—embodies the architectural precision and modern luxury of 1930s French design.

The exterior features Guerlain’s refined typographic logo and stylized sun motif characteristic of the house’s visual identity of the decade: streamlined, elegant, and balanced between classic sophistication and modern flair. The Art Deco aesthetic—with its clean lines, subtle black accents, and geometric harmonies—perfectly expressed the spirit of interwar Paris, when luxury was defined not only by opulence but by precision and artistry. This particular packaging design, much like Vega’s, was intended to appeal to a cosmopolitan clientele who prized both beauty and modernity in their personal luxuries.

Inside rests the Verveine perfumed soap, its delicate fragrance preserved through time. “Verveine,” or verbena, evokes the scent of crushed green leaves touched by citrus—fresh, slightly lemony, and invigorating. In the 1930s, such scents were prized for their clean and uplifting character, ideal for the bath ritual of an elegant Parisian woman. Guerlain’s formulation would have enriched the traditional soap with fine oils and perfume essence, creating a lavishly creamy lather that left the skin subtly scented and softened. The weight of the soap itself, approximately 1¼ pounds, gives it a satisfying solidity, reflecting the quality craftsmanship and premium materials Guerlain was known for.

Today, this untouched Verveine soap stands as both a collector’s treasure and a small work of art, encapsulating Guerlain’s commitment to refinement and timeless design. It embodies the glamour of 1930s Paris—where every object, even a simple bar of soap, was transformed into an expression of luxury, taste, and the enduring beauty of Guerlain’s heritage.


 








Tuesday, August 6, 2013

Habit de Fete Flacons 1996

Habit de Fete Flacons, introduced in 1996. Refillable gold tone atomizer cases. The openwork circles allowed one to see the fill line of the fragrances inside.


Sizes:
  • 8ml Parfum = "Copyright 1996 Guerlain Paris" engraved on the bottom of the case. Came with a black velveteen pouch. Black presentation box with blue outer box. Stands: 3-5/16" tall
  • 50ml Eau de Parfum
  • 93ml Eau de Toilette


Held the following perfumes:
  • Shalimar (parfum refill discontinued in 2015)
  • Champs Elysees
  • Mitsouko
  • L'Heure Bleue
  • Chamade
  • Jicky
  • Nahema
  • Vol de Nuit
  • Samsara












 


Sunday, August 4, 2013

Sylvia Toledano Le Flacon d'Exception Bee Bottles 2013

In March 2013, the French jewelry designer Sylvia Toledano collaborated with Guerlain to create an exclusive collection that united haute perfumery with the art of adornment. This limited edition series consisted of five jeweled perfume bottles, each transformed into a unique decorative object through the addition of gold chains and hand-set drops of semi-precious stones. Each stone was carefully chosen to harmonize with the character and mood of the fragrance it represented, creating an exquisite fusion of scent, color, and symbolism—a meeting point between fine craftsmanship and sensory expression.

The collection included five celebrated Guerlain perfumes, each interpreted through its gemstone counterpart: L’Instant Magic, veiled in mystery with deep black onyx, symbolizing introspection and sophistication; Nuit d’Amour, adorned with amethyst, evoking sensuality, spiritual calm, and the violet glow of twilight; Chypre Fatal, paired with rose quartz, the stone of love and tenderness, reflecting the perfume’s romantic and beguiling heart; Moscow, accented with vibrant turquoise, echoing the exotic splendor and cultural richness of the Russian capital; and London, dressed in fiery carnelian, a gemstone long associated with confidence, vitality, and modern urban energy.

Each flacon held 250 ml (8.4 oz) of eau de parfum, a generous presentation befitting Guerlain’s tradition of luxury and permanence. The bottles, already elegant in form, were elevated to objets d’art—glimmering chains cascading over the glass, gemstones catching the light like captured drops of color. Toledano’s embellishments gave each piece a distinct identity while maintaining Guerlain’s timeless aesthetic of refinement and restraint.

This limited collection was made available exclusively through Bergdorf Goodman in the United States for a brief period, marking it as one of the most ephemeral and desirable modern Guerlain editions. By August 4, 2013, they had vanished from the retailer’s listings, becoming instant rarities sought by collectors and connoisseurs alike. Though the original retail price remains unrecorded, their scarcity and artistry have made these bottles prized treasures—testament to Guerlain’s continuing tradition of merging olfactory mastery with the decorative arts.


Secret de Bonne Femme Guerlain Face Cream

Secret de Bonne Femme, introduced by Guerlain in 1904, holds a place of distinction in the history of skincare as the first moisturizing cream ever produced by the house—and one of the earliest of its kind in modern cosmetics. For nearly a century, until its discontinuation in 1990, it remained a beloved staple among Guerlain’s clientele, celebrated for its softening, nourishing qualities and for its touch of quiet luxury. The very name, Secret de Bonne Femme—translated from French as "A Good Woman’s Secret"—suggests both intimacy and timeless femininity, a beauty ritual passed down through generations, whispered rather than declared.

The cream was presented in a cobalt blue glass jar, a color historically associated with purity, protection, and refinement. The deep, luminous blue contrasted beautifully with the silver-plated metal cap, which was engraved and titled with classic Guerlain typography—a restrained, elegant design that reflected early 20th-century sensibilities. Measuring 5.5 cm in diameter, the jar was compact and perfectly proportioned for a woman’s vanity table, inviting daily use while embodying the sophistication of a bygone era.

The tactile experience of the jar added to its allure—the smooth, cool weight of the glass, the gleam of polished silver, and the faintly perfumed cream inside. The fragrance, subtle and powdery, likely carried traces of iris or violet, common notes in Guerlain’s skincare of the period. When applied, Secret de Bonne Femme melted into the skin, leaving it soft and delicately scented, embodying the brand’s philosophy that skincare should be as sensorial and pleasurable as perfume.

More than just a beauty product, Secret de Bonne Femme represented a new understanding of self-care at the turn of the century—a time when women began to embrace cosmetics as part of a refined, modern lifestyle. Its long life in Guerlain’s range, lasting nearly ninety years, stands as a testament to its enduring charm and effectiveness. Today, surviving jars—especially with their original blue glass and silver-plated lids intact—are highly prized collectibles, tangible reminders of Guerlain’s pioneering role in the evolution of luxury skincare.
















Habit de Fete Flacons 1982-1989

Habit de Fete Flacons 1982-1995



These were rectangular or cylindrical in shape, goldtone metal and feature a pierced basketweave or lattice design, it was introduced in 1982 and used up until 1989, these thin metal cases held refills for eau de toilettes and in 1987, the parfum de toilettes, in 1990 the eau de parfums.





Although there are several styles of these refillable containers, they all fit the same size and shape of refills:
  • 8ml/0.25 oz Parfum Refillable Natural Spray Atomizer
  • 50ml/1.7 oz Eau de Parfum Refillable Natural Spray Atomizer
  • 50ml/1.7 oz Parfum de Toilette Refillable Atomizer
  • 93ml/3.14 oz Eau de Toilette Refillable Atomizer



8ml Parfum Refillable Natural Spray

8ml Parfum Refillable Natural Spray

8ml Parfum Natural Spray Refill

8ml Parfum Natural Spray Refill







Saturday, August 3, 2013

Shalimar Limited Edition Inverse 1999

In 1999, Guerlain released a limited edition of Shalimar that reimagined the house’s most iconic bottle in an unexpected and luxurious play of color and material. For this edition, the traditional design was given a striking twist: the flacon itself was crafted from deep sapphire blue crystal, while the stopper was rendered in clear crystal—a complete inversion of the classic presentation, where the base is clear and the fan-shaped stopper is tinted blue. The effect was both bold and elegant, the sapphire glass catching light like a precious gem and giving the perfume a regal, almost nocturnal aura.

Unlike earlier crystal editions, this particular bottle was not manufactured by Baccarat, though the craftsmanship remains of remarkable quality. The lines of the flacon retain the graceful proportions and sensual curves originally designed by Raymond Guerlain in 1925, yet the color inversion transforms its mood entirely—where the traditional Shalimar speaks of golden opulence and Oriental warmth, this blue crystal version feels cool, contemplative, and mysterious, as though it were a tribute to the moonlit side of the legendary fragrance.

The presentation box was equally striking. Covered in a flocked midnight blue velvet-like finish, it departed from the lavender hue that had long been associated with Shalimar’s packaging. This deeper tone enhanced the jewel-like presence of the bottle within, creating a unified composition of shadow and brilliance. The contrast of textures—velvet box and crystalline glass—mirrored the sensual contrasts of Shalimar itself: soft yet strong, radiant yet intimate.

Standing 4 inches tall, the bottle bore a clear base label reading “Guerlain Bottle Made in France”, accompanied by a secondary label providing contents and volume details. Two versions were available for purchase: the 30 ml Eau de Parfum splash, which retailed for 350 francs, and the 125 ml Eau de Toilette splash, priced at 500 francs.

This 1999 edition stands as a quiet collector’s treasure—a reinterpretation that honors the house’s tradition of craftsmanship and innovation while casting Shalimar’s timeless allure in a new, sapphire-blue light.








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In 2000, the 30ml Eau de Parfum was relaunched and called the Shalimar "Gardens of Shalimar" Edition.

Guerlain's Talc de Toilette

 Guerlain's Talc de Toilette was housed inside of a tin enameled in blue, off white and black.