Shalimar Souffle de Parfum 2014

 Launched in October 2014, Shalimar Souffle de Parfum represents Guerlain’s delicate reinterpretation of one of perfumery’s most iconic creations. The name is deeply evocative: Shalimar, rooted in Persian, recalls the “abode of love” and evokes the grandeur and romance of the Mughal gardens in India, immortalized by the Taj Mahal. Souffle de Parfum, pronounced as “soo-fluh duh par-fum”, translates to “a breath of perfume” or “perfumed whisper.” Together, the name suggests an ethereal, light, and intimate expression of the legendary Shalimar—a fragrance that feels like a tender caress rather than a dramatic statement. It evokes images of sunlit gardens, soft silk brushing against skin, and the delicate flutter of petals on a gentle breeze, conjuring both romance and elegance.

The perfume emerged during a period marked by a strong trend toward lighter, more sparkling interpretations of classic fragrances. In the mid-2010s, fashion and perfumery alike emphasized transparency, luminosity, and a playful, wearable sophistication. Pastels and soft textures dominated clothing, while fragrance trends favored floral-oriental hybrids, airy gourmands, and sparkling citrus blends. Within this cultural and aesthetic moment, Souffle de Parfum offered a modern bridge: a tribute to Shalimar’s rich history yet designed for contemporary wearers seeking freshness and elegance. Women encountering this fragrance would likely have been drawn to its accessibility—a sophisticated Shalimar experience, now light, bright, and intimately sensual, rather than dense and heavy.

Thierry Wasser crafted Shalimar Souffle de Parfum as a sparkling, light, and airy floriental. The top notes—bergamot, lemon, and mandarin—open with radiant brightness, their citrus oils rich in limonene and linalyl acetate, creating a sparkling, effervescent introduction that lifts the fragrance like sunlight on morning dew. These notes convey energy, optimism, and flirtatious elegance, setting the stage for the heart.

The heart centers on luminous florals: Sambac jasmine from India and absolute orange blossom water. Indian Sambac jasmine is prized for its heady, creamy, and sensual facets, rich in indole and benzyl acetate, giving both intensity and radiant sweetness. The absolute orange blossom water, extracted with meticulous precision through distillation and re-extraction, adds a uniquely fresh, watery floral nuance, highlighting a sparkling, radiant facet rarely captured in conventional orange blossom oils. Together, these florals produce a bright, tender, and slightly gourmand bouquet, evoking petals kissed by sunlight and the soft warmth of a morning breeze.

The base provides a whisper of sensuality rather than density. Vanilla—sourced from India and Tahiti—offers creamy warmth, its vanillin, coumarin, and heliotropin molecules lending gourmand depth without heaviness. The overdose of white musk gives a soft, addictive radiance, wrapping the fragrance in an enveloping, skin-like veil. The effect is intimate, modern, and luminous: a Shalimar that glows rather than smolders, maintaining the oriental heritage while offering a contemporary, wearable expression.

In the context of 2014 perfumery, Shalimar Souffle de Parfum was aligned with trends emphasizing light, sparkling, and floriental interpretations of classic orientals. Yet Guerlain distinguished itself through the careful sourcing of rare ingredients—Indian Sambac jasmine, Tahitian and Indian vanilla, and precise orange blossom water—and through Thierry Wasser’s skill in balancing brightness with subtle sensuality. The fragrance feels like a whispered invitation: airy, radiant, and undeniably feminine, capturing Shalimar’s legendary sensuality in a delicate, modern form.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Shalimar Souffle de Parfum is classified as a sparkling, light, airy and delicate floriental perfume.

• Top notes: lemon, bergamot, mandarin
• Middle notes: Indian Sambac jasmine, orange blossom water absolute
• Base notes: Tahitian vanilla, Indian vanilla, white musk

Scent Profile:

The opening of Shalimar Souffle de Parfum is a radiant, sparkling cascade of citrus, immediately lifting the senses with effervescence and clarity. Lemon, sourced from Italy, bursts with crisp freshness, its aroma defined by high levels of limonene, lending tart, sunny brightness, and citral, which adds a subtle green-lemon sharpness. Italian lemons are prized for their balance of sweetness and acidity, creating a luminous top note that feels alive on the skin. Complementing this, bergamot from Calabria introduces a soft, sweet-floral facet alongside its citrusy bite, with linalyl acetate giving a lightly fruity-floral softness and bergapten adding a hint of complexity. Mandarin, often from Sicily, adds a juicy, slightly tangy lift, with ethyl butyrate and terpenes contributing a playful, succulent facet. Together, these top notes form a sparkling, airy introduction, like sunlight dancing through leaves, brightening the fragrance with a delicate, flirtatious energy.

As the perfume unfolds, the heart reveals a tender floral duet of Indian Sambac jasmine and orange blossom water absolute. Sambac jasmine, grown in the warm, tropical plains of India, is highly prized for its creamy, voluptuous aroma, rich in benzyl acetate, linalool, and trace indoles, which give the flower its soft animalic warmth and sensual depth. Its scent is full-bodied yet luminous, like petals brushing the skin in the golden glow of dawn. The orange blossom water absolute, extracted with a dual process of distillation and re-extraction, captures the freshness of the delicate flowers along with a watery, almost ethereal facet that contrasts with the creaminess of the jasmine. Its aroma is defined by linalool, nerolidol, and minor coumarins, producing a clean, radiant floral note that enhances the sparkling effect of the citrus top notes while reinforcing the soft sensuality of the heart. The interplay of jasmine and orange blossom water creates a luminous, airy floral bouquet that feels tender, flirtatious, and intimate, like a gentle caress rather than a statement.

The base provides subtle warmth and lingering sensuality, rounding the fragrance with comforting depth. Tahitian vanilla, known for its slightly exotic, smoky-sweet facets, and Indian vanilla, richer and more creamy, are layered to create a smooth, enveloping warmth. Their vanillin, heliotropin, and coumarin molecules lend a gourmand creaminess and balsamic sweetness that complements the delicate florals. White musk adds a soft, skin-like radiance, using modern synthetic musks—such as galaxolide or ambrettolide—to provide longevity and a clean, airy glow that enhances the softness of the florals without heaviness. The result is a base that is intimate and delicate, a gentle whisper of warmth and sensuality that leaves a subtle, inviting trail.

Overall, Shalimar Souffle de Parfum is a modern, airy reinterpretation of the legendary Shalimar. The citrus top notes sparkle like sunlit petals, the florals in the heart flutter with light sensuality, and the vanilla-musk base provides a soft, velvety finish. Its floriental structure is light, sparkling, and luminous, offering a fragrance experience that is intimate, tender, and delicately radiant. By combining rare, carefully sourced natural ingredients with precise synthetics, Guerlain has created a perfume that feels both modern and timeless—a whispered caress, luminous and elegant, yet unmistakably Shalimar.

Bottle:

The perfume bottle's shape is the newer pedestal bottle from Jade Jagger, who designed it in 2010 for all of Shalimar's Eau de Parfums and Eau de Toilettes. The usual bottles are clear glass with the blue cap, this flanker edition is tinted blue, a refreshing change for the scent.

Available in the following:

• 30ml Eau de Parfum
• 50ml ml Eau de Parfum
• 100ml ml Eau de Parfum

L'Extrait de Roses pour Les Lèvres c1853

L’Extrait de Roses pour Les Lèvres by Guerlain, introduced in 1853, represents one of the earliest innovations in long-lasting, colored lip treatments. Conceived as a liquid lip color, it promised enduring wear, maintaining its vibrancy even during meals—a remarkable achievement for mid-19th-century cosmetics. The formulation combined both aesthetic elegance and practical performance, allowing women to enhance their lips with the delicate fragrance and hue of roses without frequent reapplication.

The presentation of the product was equally refined. The lip color was housed in a bottle manufactured by Pochet et du Courval, a leading glassmaker renowned for precision and clarity. The container is the so-called “Standard 15g” bottle, a design first established in 1860, featuring colorless cylindrical glass. The bottle’s surface carries the brand name “GUERLAIN” and the location “Champs Élysées” in relief, projecting both prestige and legibility. The base is further marked with GUERLAIN and the initials HP, denoting Pochet et du Courval, which underscores the collaboration between the luxury perfumer and the master glassmaker.

The bottle’s understated elegance, with its clear glass allowing the delicate rose-tinted liquid to shine, exemplifies Guerlain’s early attention to both beauty and function. Its cylindrical form, clean lines, and precise relief inscriptions reflect the mid-19th-century aesthetic of sophistication and refinement. More than a mere cosmetic, L’Extrait de Roses pour Les Lèvres embodies a harmonious marriage of artistry, chemistry, and design—capturing Guerlain’s pioneering spirit in the world of luxury beauty.

L'Artiste: journal de la littérature et des beaux-arts, 1856:

"Consequently, this melancholic face will not ask Guerlain for his Damask rouge, nor for his Court rouge, nor for his Plessis rouge. Yet this pale face will take rose extract for the lips, or carmine ointment, for a small, fresh, and vermilion mouth is one of the greatest aspects of beauty."

Art et décoration, Volume 5, 1899:

"Guerlain’s Rose Extract for the lips eliminates these inconveniences and delicately perfumes the mouth."

 

250 Year Anniversary Guerlain Flacons 1979

In 1979, the House of Guerlain commemorated its remarkable 250th anniversary with special editions of its legendary parfums, Mitsouko, Shalimar, and Jicky celebrating centuries of olfactory artistry and design excellence. These editions transformed familiar fragrances into collector’s masterpieces, emphasizing both the perfume’s iconic status and the House’s dedication to luxury presentation.

The parfum was presented in a striking quadrilobe flacon, produced by BSN-GD glassworks, holding an impressive 8.5 oz (250 ml) of parfum The flacon’s elegant form is topped with a four-lobed stopper, creating a sculptural silhouette that is simultaneously modern and timeless. Its frosted etched label adds subtle texture and refinement, allowing the engraved branding to catch the light while enhancing the tactile experience of the bottle. The combination of clear crystal, soft frosted etching, and geometric elegance exemplifies Guerlain’s meticulous attention to detail and its ability to merge functionality with artistry.

This exquisite flacon was housed in a resurrected 1940s green box, echoing a previous era of Guerlain presentation while updated for the anniversary. The box is adorned with Art Nouveau-inspired gold tracery, its sinuous, flowing motifs highlighting the elegance, sophistication, and decorative beauty associated with the House. Together, the crystal flacon, etched label, and richly detailed packaging create a harmonious ensemble, making this 1979 edition not only a tribute to Shalimar and Mitsouko but also a tangible celebration of Guerlain’s 250-year legacy in fragrance and design.

Jockey Club c1872

 Guerlain’s Jockey Club, introduced around 1872 though perhaps created earlier, belongs to a tradition of fragrances that captured the imagination of the 19th century. The name “Jockey Club” itself was borrowed from the prestigious gentlemen’s clubs associated with horse racing, most famously in England and France. These clubs embodied refinement, exclusivity, and the thrill of the racetrack. To Victorian society, the words Jockey Club evoked images of polished boots, well-groomed horses, manicured lawns, and the bustle of social gatherings at Epsom Downs in late spring. The name suggested elegance and sport, but also a fashionable modernity tied to leisure and the aristocracy.

The time of its creation was the late Victorian era, a period of industrial progress and shifting social customs. Fashion favored elaborate silhouettes, with women in bustled gowns and men in tailored frock coats, while the upper classes displayed their sophistication through the arts of etiquette and personal grooming. In perfumery, the trend leaned toward complex blended fragrances that mirrored the era’s fascination with nature, travel, and exoticism. A perfume named Jockey Club would have resonated with both men and women as a symbol of cultivated taste—fresh, floral, and sporty, yet still anchored in refinement. It was equally at home in a gentleman’s dressing case as on a lady’s vanity table, bridging gendered divides in fragrance.

In scent, Jockey Club was traditionally conceived as a floral blend meant to capture the spirit of springtime meadows and flowering hedgerows at the racetrack. Early formulas often included lavender, orange blossom, geranium, and musk, creating an effect both brisk and slightly powdery. Guerlain’s version stood within this tradition yet carried the House’s unmistakable finesse, updating the theme for its clientele of connoisseurs. Like its contemporaries, it relied heavily on natural extracts, tinctures, and infusions—but by the close of the 19th century, perfumers began experimenting with newly available synthetics such as vanillin, heliotropin, linalool, and coumarin. These not only extended the life of the fragrance on skin but also intensified and refined the natural floral notes, giving them a more radiant, diffusive quality.

Jockey Club fragrances, produced by nearly every major perfumery of the 19th century, formed an entire genre rather than a single creation. Each perfumer added or removed ingredients to make their version distinct, while still adhering to the recognizable “Jockey Club” structure. Guerlain’s interpretation, launched around 1872, carried the cachet of Parisian luxury and stood out for its elegance, but it was part of a wider cultural movement. It was not unique in theme, yet its execution bore the refinement that marked Guerlain’s work, setting it apart from simpler imitations.

For Victorians, Jockey Club was more than a scent—it was an emblem of fashionable modern life, a blend of refinement, nature, and leisure. It reflected the romanticized countryside of racing season while providing a perfumed accessory to the rituals of toilette, a fragrance both nostalgic and aspirational, perfectly in tune with the sensibilities of its time.

Fragrance Composition: 

 

So what does it smell like? Jockey Club by Guerlain is classified as a floral fragrance for men and women. It is an old-fashioned scent based on mixed blends intended to reproduce the fragrance of Epsom Downs in the late Spring. 

• Top notes: Calabrian bergamot, Sicilian neroli, Moroccan cassie, Provencal lavender, Bourbon rose geranium, Russian coriander
• Middle notes: Grasse jasmine, Portuguese tuberose, Tuscan violet, Bulgarian rose, Tunisian orange blossom, Peruvian heliotrope, Saigon cinnamon
• Base notes: Tibetan musk, ambergris, Florentine orris, Abyssinian civet, Jamaican mace, Zanzibar clove, Mexican vanilla, Peru balsam, Levantine storax, Venezuelan tonka bean 

Scent Profile:

Let us step into the world of Guerlain’s Jockey Club, a floral fragrance for both men and women, crafted to evoke the vivid impression of Epsom Downs in late spring. Imagine the bustle of the racetrack—fresh meadows alive with blossoms, herbs crushed underfoot, the mingling of warm bodies, leather saddles, and the distant spice of refreshments. Each note in this composition works as a brushstroke in that atmospheric scene, natural essences interlaced with the artistry of perfumery.

The fragrance opens with a sparkling brightness. Calabrian bergamot lends its sunlit clarity, far greener and more refined than other citrus, with that unmistakable tang of southern Italian groves kissed by sea air. Alongside it, Sicilian neroli blooms—bittersweet and honeyed, a distillation of orange blossom with the slightly metallic edge that distinguishes the best from Sicily’s groves. Moroccan cassie enters with its powdery, slightly almond nuance, soft yet animalic, already hinting at the floral heart to come. The herbal sharpness of Provençal lavender grounds this brightness, airy and brisk, evoking clean linens and warm hillsides of southern France. Bourbon rose geranium adds its rosy, mint-like sparkle, a bridge between citrus and flowers. Finally, Russian coriander contributes a peppery-green spiciness—fresh, aromatic, and a touch exotic—like a gust of wind sweeping over spring fields.

The heart reveals itself in a lush floral tapestry. Grasse jasmine, the jewel of French perfumery, exudes its narcotic richness, creamy yet indolic, carrying the warmth of the Riviera sun. Beside it, Portuguese tuberose unfurls—opulent, waxy, and voluptuous, almost humming with nocturnal intensity. Tuscan violet offers a softer counterpoint, sweet and powdery, with a green, ionone-driven freshness that was so beloved in 19th-century perfumery. Bulgarian rose, velvety and wine-dark, deepens the heart, while Tunisian orange blossom sings high with luminous, honeyed tones. The delicate almond-powder sweetness of Peruvian heliotrope brings a gentle gourmand touch, softening the florals, while Saigon cinnamon provides a warm, spicy ribbon threading through the bouquet, echoing the lively pulse of the racecourse itself.

The base is where Jockey Club finds its full gravitas. Tibetan musk lends an animalic warmth, primal yet enveloping, its sensuality tempered by the oceanic smoothness of true ambergris, rare and ethereal, carrying whispers of salt air and sunlit driftwood. Florentine orris, with its buttery, violet-powder texture, enriches the composition, while Abyssinian civet brings an earthy, leathery purr. Spices linger here too—Jamaican mace and Zanzibar clove contributing dry warmth and aromatic bite. Mexican vanilla rounds this richness with dark sweetness, enhanced by the resinous warmth of Peru balsam and Levantine storax, both lending smoky-balsamic depth. Finally, Venezuelan tonka bean, rich in coumarin, ties everything together with its almond-tobacco softness, leaving an afterglow that is both comforting and sophisticated.

Jockey Club was intended to capture a very particular impression: the air of Epsom Downs in bloom, mingling grass, flowers, and the faint spice of the crowd. It is a fragrance of contrasts—fresh yet musky, floral yet animalic, refined yet robust—balancing the elegance of Victorian society with the earthy vitality of the racetrack. Each ingredient contributes to a scene that feels both natural and heightened, a true olfactory painting of spring leisure, sport, and refinement.

Bottles:

Presented in the Carre flacon.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown.

Moynat and Guerlain Beauty Trunk

In April 2014, the storied French leather goods house Moynat partnered with Guerlain to create a truly exceptional piece of functional art: the “Malle de Beauté,” or beauty case, celebrating the grand re-opening of the legendary Orient Express luxury train service. Designed as both a tribute to timeless travel and to Guerlain’s enduring heritage, the case embodies the spirit of refinement and bespoke craftsmanship.

The exterior is a masterpiece in itself, crafted from vegetal-tanned calfskin leather in the signature deep blue of the Orient Express, accented with precise white stitching and luminous gold-plated brass hardware. The supple grain of the calfskin lends both durability and elegance, while the glint of the polished metal fittings evokes the golden age of luxury travel. Every detail is executed by hand, requiring over 250 hours of work by a single artisan, underscoring Moynat’s reputation for unrivaled savoir-faire.

Upon opening the case, the interior reveals a world of opulence. Hinged apple wood drawers and trays—lightweight yet resilient—expand outward in a fluid motion, offering a dramatic unveiling of the treasures within. The compartments are lined with plush beige velvet-like fabric, creating a tactile and visual contrast against the rich blue exterior. As the lid lifts, a backlit mirror magically illuminates, casting a warm glow over the contents, transforming the vanity into a private stage of beauty and ritual.

 Inside, the drawers and trays are meticulously sized to cradle Guerlain’s most exquisite offerings. Chief among them are four vintage Baccarat flacons of Shalimar parfum, each bottle a crystalline jewel carrying one of perfumery’s greatest masterpieces. The careful arrangement of Guerlain beauty items within makes the case not just a travel companion but a miniature boudoir, designed to bring a sense of indulgence wherever it journeys. Beyond cosmetics, its versatile layout also allows it to be used as a refined repository for jewelry, watches, or personal treasures.

Each Malle de Beauté was available only on a build-to-order basis, with prices ranging from $5,000 to $55,000, depending on client specifications. No two trunks were entirely alike, making each one a personal expression of luxury. This collaboration between Guerlain and Moynat, steeped in French artisanal tradition, remains not only a celebration of the Orient Express’s rebirth but also a symbol of beauty, elegance, and the romance of travel.

Iris Blanc c1883

Iris Blanc by Guerlain, launched around 1883, was a fragrance steeped in symbolism, refinement, and the artistic sensibilities of its age. The name itself, Iris Blanc (pronounced ee-rees blahnk in French, meaning “White Iris”), reflects both purity and elegance. In the Victorian Language of Flowers, the white iris symbolized innocence, faith, and spiritual purity. It was also linked to the Greek goddess Iris, the divine messenger who bridged heaven and earth with her rainbow, which imbued the flower with an air of mysticism and lofty grace. To name a perfume after such a blossom was to invite associations of refinement, ethereal beauty, and timeless femininity.

The imagery evoked by Iris Blanc would have been especially compelling to women of the late 19th century. The phrase conjures visions of white petals glistening with morning dew, bathed in soft sunlight, and releasing a powdery, faintly violet-like perfume into the air. It carried emotions of serenity, elegance, and restrained sensuality—a fragrance that whispered rather than shouted. For fashionable women of the period, Iris Blanc would have aligned with ideals of cultivated femininity, modest grace, and quiet sophistication, offering a fragrance that was both delicate and dignified.

The perfume emerged during the Belle Époque, a period of optimism, innovation, and cultural flourishing in France. Fashion at the time was marked by elegant gowns with cinched waists, flowing skirts, and elaborate lace details, while the arts celebrated refinement and modernity. Perfumery, too, was in transition. Traditional natural extracts, tinctures, and infusions still formed the backbone of fragrance creation, but by the 1880s, new synthetic aroma molecules such as amyl acetate (with its sweet, fruity notes), lignaloe (softly floral and woody), ionones (capturing the elusive scent of violets), heliotropin (powdery, almond-vanilla warmth), and terpineol (floral-lilac brightness) were beginning to expand the perfumer’s palette. These innovations allowed perfumers like Guerlain to enhance the natural delicacy of iris with greater radiance, persistence, and depth.

In the broader landscape of 19th-century perfumery, iris-themed fragrances were highly fashionable, with nearly every major house offering its interpretation. Recipes for iris perfumes appeared frequently in formularies of the time, each perfumer modifying the basic structure to create something distinct. Guerlain’s Iris Blanc stood out not only for its luxurious quality but also for its balance of natural iris with the emerging synthetics of the era, resulting in a fragrance that felt both familiar and modern.

For women of the Belle Époque, wearing Iris Blanc was more than simply adorning themselves with perfume—it was a statement of refinement, purity, and subtle sensuality. The scent itself would have been interpreted as soft, powdery, and gently floral, tinged with violet-like sweetness and underpinned by woody warmth, embodying the elegance of a white iris in bloom. In this way, Iris Blanc seamlessly reflected the ideals of its time while also anticipating the future of modern perfumery.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Iris Blanc by Guerlain is classified as a floral fragrance with a strong powdery facet, leaning toward a floral-powdery or floral-oriental style depending on its concentration.

• Top notes: lignaloe, amyl acetate
• Middle notes: jasmine, ylang ylang, ionone
• Base notes: orris root concrete, heliotropin, terpineol

Scent Profile:

The first impression of Iris Blanc unfolds with a curious duality—on one side, the natural softness of lignaloe and on the other, the synthetic sparkle of amyl acetate. Lignaloe, distilled from the wood of the linaloe tree, carries a smooth, floral-woody profile with balsamic undertones that soften the brightness of the opening. It is not harsh, but rather gently diffusive, giving the fragrance a subtle floral roundness right from the start. Against this, amyl acetate flashes forward with its unmistakable fruity nuance—bananas, pears, even a hint of apple candy. This synthetic note was often prized in late 19th-century perfumery for its playful freshness, offering a lively lift that natural ingredients alone could not provide. Together, these two notes create an unusual introduction: refined woodiness touched with a gleaming, almost gourmand fruitiness.

As the perfume settles, the heart opens into a lush bouquet where jasmine and ylang ylang dominate. Jasmine, likely of Egyptian origin, brings an opulent floralcy with narcotic, honeyed tones—heady, sensual, and unmistakably feminine. Ylang ylang from the Comoros or Madagascar adds its own creamy richness, a blend of banana-like fruitiness, delicate spiciness, and custard-like warmth. These natural florals are then intertwined with ionone, one of the groundbreaking synthetic discoveries of the late 19th century. Ionones reproduce the violet-like fragrance of orris root at a fraction of the cost, with a velvety, powdery softness that deepens the florals and lends them a mysterious haze. In Iris Blanc, ionone acts as the connective tissue between the radiant flowers and the powder-drenched base, enhancing the natural materials while also suggesting the very essence of iris.

The base is where the fragrance takes its name to heart. Orris root concrete provides the buttery, earthy, and powdery character that gives iris perfumes their legendary elegance. Orris from Tuscany and Florence was considered the most prized, harvested from the rhizomes of the iris pallida, aged and cured for years to release its violet-like fragrance. Here, it is softened and sweetened by heliotropin, a synthetic that captures the almond-vanilla scent of heliotrope flowers. Heliotropin is at once gourmand and powdery, enhancing the creamy texture of orris and giving it a comforting, almost confectionary warmth. Alongside it, terpineol contributes its lilac-like floral tone, fresh and subtly woody, expanding the floral spectrum into something both airy and long-lasting. The interplay of natural and synthetic is what makes the base so compelling—orris with its regal earthiness, heliotropin with its soft almond-powder sweetness, and terpineol with its crystalline floral lift.

Together, Iris Blanc feels like a study in contrast: the sparkle of fruit against balsamic wood, the lushness of exotic florals softened by violet powder, and the creamy elegance of orris enriched by heliotropin’s almond warmth. In the late 19th century, this combination would have seemed modern yet romantic, a fragrance that bridged the old world of natural extractions with the new frontier of synthetics. To smell it is to step into a refined powdery floral dream—airy yet grounded, natural yet enhanced—capturing both the grace of iris and the daring of innovation.

Bottles:

Presented in the carre flacon.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown. Still being sold in 1914.

Double Extrait d'Acacia 1840

Double Extrait d’Acacia by Guerlain, introduced in 1840, stands as one of the house’s earliest demonstrations of refinement and innovation. The name itself — Double Extrait d’Acacia (pronounced DOO-bluh ex-TRAY dah-kah-SEE-ah) — is French, meaning “Double Extract of Acacia.” In 19th-century perfumery, the term “double extrait” indicated a highly concentrated, luxurious preparation, often richer and longer-lasting than a standard eau or cologne. The phrase immediately evokes the image of abundance — a scent twice as deep, twice as velvety, capturing the full bloom of the golden acacia under the soft light of spring. It conjures emotion through its dual nature: gentleness and strength, delicacy and intensity, an embrace between innocence and sensuality.

The year 1840 places this perfume within the Romantic era, a time when Europe was swept up in art, poetry, and sentiment. Paris — then the heart of taste and luxury — was moving from the austerity of the early 19th century into a world of refinement and ornament. The July Monarchy under Louis-Philippe fostered stability and elegance; fashion favored fitted silk gowns, delicate lace collars, and soft pastel tones. Women of the period idealized nature, grace, and moral beauty — qualities mirrored in the tender fragrance of acacia. Perfumery, still a relatively artisanal craft, was deeply tied to natural materials. Essences were extracted through enfleurage, maceration, and distillation, producing gentle yet richly complex aromas that reflected the botanical world rather than abstract compositions.

To a woman in 1840, Double Extrait d’Acacia would have represented refinement and modern luxury. Acacia was then a fashionable floral note, celebrated for its soft, powdery sweetness and faintly almond-like undertone. Its scent carried associations of purity, modesty, and springtime bloom, yet also of a subtle sensuality that whispered beneath its freshness. The idea of a double extract suggested exclusivity — a perfume made with more essence, richer oils, and greater craftsmanship. To wear it was to signal not only taste but also discernment, a participation in the evolving world of perfumery that was beginning to move beyond mere toilet waters toward true artistic compositions.

The word “Acacia” itself would have evoked luminous imagery: clusters of creamy yellow blossoms trembling in the sun, bees hovering over honeyed petals, the faint shimmer of pollen carried by a warm southern breeze. Its fragrance — gentle yet pervasive — translated into scent the ideal of the 1840s woman: graceful, refined, and radiant without ostentation. The acacia flower, known for its resilience and sweetness, became a natural muse for perfumers who sought to capture both tenderness and endurance in their creations.

When Guerlain released Double Extrait d’Acacia, acacia-based perfumes were already beloved across Europe. Nearly every perfumer of note offered some version of the scent, usually built around floral absolutes, resins, and tinctures of natural origin. Recipes for Eau d’Acacia and Extrait d’Acacia circulated widely in professional formularies of the period, but each house sought to personalize the composition — adding hints of mimosa, violet, orange blossom, or rose to distinguish their version. Guerlain’s refinement lay in the name “Double Extrait” itself, implying a superior strength and purity. His version likely employed a higher concentration of floral materials, perhaps blended with light balsams or musks to give greater depth and longevity.

At the time, perfumery had not yet entered the synthetic age — that revolution would come decades later with the discovery of coumarin (in 1868) and vanillin (in the 1870s). Thus, Double Extrait d’Acacia was wholly a child of the natural world, relying on tinctures, infusions, and essential oils. Yet it also anticipated what was to come: the desire to intensify, to fix, to capture nature’s fleeting breath and make it last. This pursuit of concentration — of the double extract — was, in essence, a prelude to the very spirit of modern perfumery.

In its time, Double Extrait d’Acacia would have been admired not for its novelty, but for its refinement. It did not break from contemporary trends so much as elevate them. Within its softly glowing bottle, Guerlain distilled the poetry of acacia into something lasting and luminous — a perfume that reflected both the Romantic imagination of its age and the meticulous craftsmanship that would define his legacy for centuries to come.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Double Extrait d'Acacia is classified as an oriental woody floral (amber floral) fragrance.

• Top notes: French acacia, Australian eucalyptus, Calabrian bergamot, Hungarian clary sage oil, Provencal lavender, anise, anisic aldehyde, Moroccan mimosa
• Middle notes: Grasse jasmine absolute, Grasse rose otto, Florentine orris, Mysore sandalwood, Sudanese myrrh, Somali olibanum, Omani frankincense, Maltese labdanum, Mediterranean cypress oil   
• Base notes: Tonkin musk tincture, musk xylene, musk ketone, Indian musk ambrette, Tyrolean oakmoss resin, Malaysian patchouli oil, Mexican vanilla, vanillin, Siam benzoin, coumarin, Peru balsam, South American tolu balsam, ambergris tincture, ambreine, Canadian castoreum, Abyssinian civet  

Scent Profile:

Double Extrait d’Acacia unfolds like a perfumed manuscript of the 19th century — each note a paragraph of history, geography, and chemistry, intertwined. It opens with a luminous, honeyed breeze of French acacia, whose blossoms release a powdery, slightly almondy sweetness reminiscent of early spring mornings in Provence. Acacia’s main aromatic molecules, such as benzyl alcohol and anisaldehyde, lend the fragrance its soft, floral warmth, while the addition of anisic aldehyde enhances this natural profile — heightening the floral-vanillic glow and giving the opening a silken polish only possible through the union of nature and early synthetic chemistry.

Drifting through the upper notes is the cool, camphorous sharpness of Australian eucalyptus, with its cineole-rich vapors cutting through the sweetness like sunlight through mist. Its clarity contrasts beautifully with the luscious Calabrian bergamot, whose zest contains linalyl acetate and limonene — natural molecules that shimmer with green, citrusy radiance. Together, they give the composition an effervescent brightness before the warmth deepens. From Hungary, the herbaceous, nutty tones of clary sage oil rise; its sclareol content introduces a leathery undertone that bridges seamlessly into the later animalics. 

Provençal lavender, rich in linalool and coumarin, lends both serenity and structure — its blue haze of aroma binding the herbal, sweet, and woody facets. The faint whisper of anise, with its sweet licorice-like anethole, intertwines with acacia and mimosa, creating an airy floral gourmand effect, while Moroccan mimosa, with its creamy, honey-drenched blossoms, softens the sharper herbal edges. Moroccan varieties are prized for their powdery, violet-like nuance, achieved through natural compounds like methyl anthranilate and ionones — a profile that gives the perfume its tender golden hue.

As the fragrance unfolds, the heart blossoms into a lavish floral symphony from Grasse, the cradle of French perfumery. Grasse jasmine absolute, rich in indole, benzyl acetate, and cis-jasmone, imparts a narcotic, honeyed sensuality — the olfactory embodiment of sun-warmed petals. Grasse rose otto joins it, opulent and full-bodied, its geraniol and citronellol lending dewy freshness while eugenol provides a subtle clove-like spice. 

The buttery, violet-powder depth of Florentine orris follows, its irones giving the composition a refined, suede-like softness. Beneath the florals, the sacred resins emerge — Mysore sandalwood, with its creamy santalols, radiates warmth and calm, its texture smooth and resinous. The sacred trio of Sudanese myrrh, Somali olibanum, and Omani frankincense weave a resinous tapestry — balsamic, smoky, and slightly peppered — enriched by the leathery amber of Maltese labdanum and the clean, green bitterness of Mediterranean cypress oil, which adds architectural structure to this rich middle section.

The base is an intoxicating descent into the depths of 19th-century perfumery — a world built upon the alchemy of nature and artifice. The Tonkin musk tincture, soft and animalic, merges with musk xylene and musk ketone, early synthetic musks that amplify the natural warmth, extending its longevity while smoothing the edges. The vegetal sweetness of Indian musk ambrette, rich in ambrettolide, adds a delicate, skin-like sensuality. 

The forest floor character of Tyrolean oakmoss resin and Malaysian patchouli oil introduces earthy, damp richness — mossy, smoky, and grounding. Mexican vanilla, warm and gourmand with vanillin, is mirrored and enhanced by synthetic vanillin, its crystalline purity brightening the natural extract. Siam benzoin and Peru balsam contribute balsamic sweetness, while South American tolu balsam adds caramel and spice. Coumarin, one of the earliest synthetic notes discovered in tonka beans, binds these creamy accords with almond and hay-like softness.

Finally, ambergris tincture and its molecular counterpart ambreine impart the shimmering, oceanic radiance of true amber — saline, soft, and glowing. The final animalics — Canadian castoreum and Abyssinian civet — lend the faintest growl, warm and intimate, reminiscent of fine leather and skin. These elements give the fragrance its unmistakable 19th-century character: opulent, sensual, and alive.

Double Extrait d’Acacia, in its full orchestration, evokes not only the sweet floral breath of spring but also the velvet shadows of antique salons, incense smoke, and polished wood. It is both a botanical portrait and an olfactory sonata — the embodiment of perfumery’s golden age, where nature’s essence was refined through the emerging artistry of chemistry.

Bottles:

This is a super rare perfume this is the first time I have seen this particular perfume from Guerlain, though the bottle design known as the Flacon Carre, dates from 1879 onwards and was made by Pochet et du Courval, this bottle actually dates to after 1914 based on the label bearing the 68, Champs-Elysees Paris for the Guerlain boutique, prior to this move, older labels are marked with 15, Rue de la Paix.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown. Still being sold in 1914.