Monday, September 1, 2025

Flacon Fleuri (Flower) c1900-1962

Guerlain’s Flacon Fleuri (Flower Bottle), introduced around 1900, is one of the house’s most romantic and charming designs. It was originally created to hold the extrait of Voila Pourquoi J’aimais Rosine but was soon adapted for other perfumes, notably Fleur Qui Meurt in 1901 and Muguet in 1908. The design perfectly reflected the floral character of these fragrances, reinforcing the decorative, feminine aesthetic that was so characteristic of Guerlain at the turn of the century.

The bottle was produced by Pochet et du Courval in two distinct moulds: one with smooth sides and another with ribbed sides. On the ribbed version, a clear, smooth area of glass was deliberately left free to accommodate the label, while the smooth version simply had the label affixed to one of its edges. Both types bore hollow stoppers, which were originally sealed with parchment and later replaced by thin extensible film. The bases of the bottles carried either of two inscriptions, “Guerlain – Paris – France” or “Guerlain Made in France.”

The Flacon Fleuri became closely associated with Guerlain’s traditional Muguet fragrance, especially in the 80cc and 125cc sizes, and continued to be used for it until the 1960s. One of the bottle’s most distinctive features was its charming adornment: early versions were sold with a small bouquet of silk flowers fastened to the neck with a collar. Over time, this decorative touch was replaced by colored ribbons—white for Muguet, mauve for Fleur Qui Meurt, and red for Voila Pourquoi J’aimais Rosine. In later years, however, these symbolic color distinctions were not always strictly followed.

The presentation boxes also evolved over the decades. Initially, the bottles were housed in sky-blue boxes with gilt edging, adding to their delicate, decorative appeal. By 1910, however, Guerlain updated the packaging to a more refined beige box adorned with gold motifs and lined with a white interior. This shift reflected broader stylistic changes of the early 20th century, moving from playful lightness to more understated elegance.


Sizes:


  • Mould # 10771 = 80cc/80ml/2.7 oz - 10.4cm/4.09 smooth bottle
  • Mould #10845 = 125cc/125ml/4.2 oz - smooth bottle
  • Mould #11590 = 80cc/80ml/2.7 oz - 9.3cm/3.66" ribbed bottle (1903 - until the early 1960s)
  • Mould #11773 = 125cc/125ml/4.2 oz - ribbed bottle (until early 1960s)

Bottles:





Scents:

  • Voila Pourquoi J’aimais Rosine
  • Fleur Qui Meurt 
  • Muguet

Flacon Escargot (Snail) c1902-1962

Guerlain’s Flacon Escargot—often referred to as the Snail Bottle—was introduced around 1902 and remained in use until 1962. This clear glass flacon was originally designed to hold extraits of Mouchoir de Monsieur and Voilette de Madame, though it was also employed for Aï-Loé. Its unusual triangular form set it apart from the more traditional apothecary styles of the period, giving it a distinctly modern and playful character.

The most striking feature of the Flacon Escargot is its clever use of design to create the “snail” motif. The stylized lettering of the Guerlain name sweeps across the bottle’s shoulder in such a way that it forms the body of a snail, from which the nickname derives. This whimsical integration of branding into the design was both decorative and functional, serving as a discreet yet unmistakable signature of the house.

The bottle was produced in several sizes, though it is most closely associated with the 80cc version, which continued to be used for Mouchoir de Monsieur until the early 1960s. Pochet et du Courval was responsible for the manufacture of the Flacon Escargot, creating four moulds in total. Today, it remains one of the more unusual and imaginative Guerlain flacons, blending elegance with a touch of wit that reflects the brand’s artistic sensibilities at the turn of the century.


Sizes:


  • Mould # 11521 = 80cc/80ml/2.7 oz - 11.5cm/4.53" (1902-1962)
  • Mould # 11654 = 125cc/125ml/4.2 oz - 13cm/5.12" (1903-1959)
  • Mould # 11780 = 250cc/250ml/8.4 oz - 15cm/5.91" (1904-1959)
  • Mould # 12154 = 500cc/500ml/16.9 oz - 19cm/7.48" (1904-1959)



Bottles:



Scents:

  • Voilette de Madame
  • Mouchoir de Monsieur
  • Ai Loe

Flacon Encrier (Inkwell) c1936-1959

The Flacon Encrier (Inkwell), introduced in 1936, was created specifically for Guerlain’s perfume Vega and remained in use until the late 1950s. Its name derives from its distinctive shape, which resembled a luxurious inkwell. The flacon was originally produced in clear glass by Baccarat, who crafted five moulds for this design. These Baccarat bottles feature bases that are gently curved and engraved either simply with “Guerlain” or more fully with “Vega – Guerlain – Paris – France.” The bottles were designed to hold only the extrait of Vega, never being adapted for other Guerlain perfumes.

The presentation was equally striking. The Baccarat Flacon Encrier sat within an octagonal base, made either of black Bakelite with two metal clips or of black velvet–covered cardboard. The lid of the box was primarily red with accents of black and white, inscribed on one side with “Guerlain” and on the other with “Paris – France.” This bold and modernist packaging emphasized the exclusivity of Vega, aligning with the bottle’s elegant, functional lines.

For the American market, Guerlain turned to Wheaton Glass of Millville, New Jersey, who created a single mould of 40cc capacity. Unlike the Baccarat bottles, the Wheaton versions had smooth, unmarked bases with no engraving. These editions were marketed only in the United States and were housed in a slightly modified presentation. The octagonal base was again covered in black velvet, but the underside carried two labels: a “Guerlain” guarantee label and another marked “Made in USA.” The box itself was almost identical to the French version, though it was printed with “Guerlain – Paris – Contents 1 fl oz” in black. The bottle’s label was also shorter than its French counterpart and repeated the same inscriptions found on the American box.


Sizes:


Baccarat:

  • 60ml/2 oz - 7.3cm/2.87" (reissued in 1997- limited to only 853 copies) 
  • 80cc/80ml/2.7 oz - 7.6cm/2.99" 
  • 125cc/125ml/4.2 oz - 8.8cm/3.46" 
  • 250cc/250ml/8.4 oz - 9.5cm/3.74" 
  • 500cc/500ml/16.9 oz - 12cm/4.72" (stopped production in late 40s) 

Wheaton Glass Co: 

  • 40cc/40ml/1.35 oz - 6.6cm/2.6" 



Bottles:




Limited Edition:


For the winter season of 1997, Guerlain revived one of its most elegant historic designs with a limited-edition reissue of Vega. For this presentation, the house returned to the original Flacon Encrier design and its striking octagonal box, preserving the luxurious aesthetic that had first accompanied the fragrance in the 1930s. The new edition was once again entrusted to Baccarat, maintaining the connection to the glassmaker that had produced the original bottles more than sixty years earlier.

Only 853 bottles were created, each individually numbered, underscoring the rarity of this release. The flacon, holding 60 ml of parfum, faithfully echoed the original in its clean, inkwell-inspired form and fine Baccarat crystal. The bottle was presented on an octagonal base covered in rich black velvet, a detail that directly recalled the original Vega packaging. This 1997 edition combined historical fidelity with exclusivity, making it both a tribute to Guerlain’s heritage and a highly coveted collector’s piece.

Flacon Empire c1902-1959

Guerlain’s Flacon Empire, introduced in 1902, remains one of the house’s most elegant and enduring early presentations. Originally created to hold the extrait Bon Vieux Temps, the bottle was fashioned in clear glass and adorned with gilded enamel drapery, a motif drawn from the grandeur of the Empire style. With its refined, drum-like silhouette, the design conveyed a sense of neoclassical harmony and balance, perfectly suited to Guerlain’s vision of timeless luxury at the turn of the 20th century. The motif of gilded swags evoked both opulence and order, echoing the decorative traditions of Napoleon’s reign, while simultaneously offering a distinctly Parisian touch of modern elegance.

The inspiration for this flacon is said to have come from the Cirque d’Hiver (Winter Circus) in Paris, a celebrated venue where high society gathered for performances, galas, and extravagant soirées. Built in 1852 by architect Jacques Hittorff, the Cirque d’Hiver was a marvel of design—its polygonal exterior resembling a drum encircled by Corinthian columns, richly decorated friezes, and gilded details. Inside, the space dazzled with chandeliers, painted ceilings, and ornate ornamentation. By the late 19th and early 20th centuries, the circus had become a fashionable playground for Paris’s elite, who attended both circus performances and social events beneath its glittering dome. For Guerlain to draw inspiration from this setting underscored the flacon’s role as a symbol of cultural refinement, pleasure, and spectacle, resonating with the cosmopolitan world in which the house thrived.

Although conceived specifically for Bon Vieux Temps, the Flacon Empire soon demonstrated its adaptability. Guerlain employed the bottle for a number of other creations, including Sillage, Avril en Fleurs, and Fragrans, ensuring its long life within the catalog. By mid-century, it had become most closely associated with Après L’Ondée, which appeared in this form in both 80cc and 125cc sizes until the late 1950s. This enduring use cemented the bottle’s status as one of Guerlain’s classic flacons, embodying both continuity and sophistication.

The flacon was produced by Pochet et du Courval, one of France’s premier glassmakers and a long-standing partner of Guerlain. To support production, the firm created four separate moulds, one of which—mould no. 11880—was officially registered with the Conseil de Prud’hommes (industrial council) on March 7, 1903. The registration illustrates Guerlain’s commitment to safeguarding the originality and artistry of its designs at a time when presentation was becoming nearly as important as the fragrance itself.

Spanning more than five decades of use, from its debut in 1902 to its final circulation in 1959, the Flacon Empire stands as a bridge between Guerlain’s 19th-century apothecary traditions and its 20th-century embrace of artistry and style in perfume presentation. More than just a container, it embodied the theatricality and elegance of its age, uniting the grandeur of Empire design with the modern glamour of Belle Époque Paris.


Sizes:


  • Mould # 11373 = 80cc/80ml/2.7 oz - 7.5cm/2.95" (1902-1959)
  • Mould # 12167 = 125cc/125ml/4.2 oz - 9cm/3.54" (1907-1959)
  • Mould # 12237 = 250cc/250ml/8.4 oz - 11cm/4.33" (1907-1945)
  • Mould # 12238 = 500cc/500ml/16.9 oz - 13cm/5.12" (1907-1945)


Bottle:





Scents:

  • Apres L'Ondee
  • Avril en Fleurs
  • Bon Vieux Temps
  • Fragrans
  • Sillage

Flacon Stiligoutte de Voyage c1934-1983

The name Flacon Stiligoutte de Voyage can be translated as “travel dropper bottle.” The word stiligoutte comes from the French stylo (pen) and goutte (drop), a term historically used to describe dropper-style dispensers designed to deliver a liquid in controlled drops rather than a free pour. In Guerlain’s context, this meant a practical, hygienic design for dispensing its medicinal preparation, Élixir de Guerlain, without waste. The addition of de Voyage emphasizes its intended portability, making it a convenient bottle for travel use.

Created by Pochet et du Courval in 1934, the bottle was specifically designed for Élixir de Guerlain, the house’s antiseptic dentifrice. Only a single mould was produced—Mould #15035—with a capacity of 166cc. The shape was utilitarian but carefully considered, balancing Guerlain’s tradition of refinement with the practical needs of a medicinal product. In the 1970s, this mould was slightly modified, reducing the bottle’s capacity to 150cc while maintaining its essential design.

This flacon remained in production for nearly five decades, reflecting the enduring popularity of Élixir de Guerlain as a staple of the brand’s apothecary line. Though less ornate than Guerlain’s perfume bottles, the Stiligoutte de Voyage exemplifies the house’s commitment to thoughtful design even for its functional health-care products. Its long production life, from c.1934 until October 1983, also underscores the historical importance of Guerlain’s dental hygiene offerings, which once stood alongside its legendary perfumes as a key part of its catalog.

Flacon Elixir c1909-1939

The Flacon Elixir (c.1909–1939) was a utilitarian yet carefully executed design, created exclusively to house Guerlain’s dental preparations. Most notably, it contained Élixir de Guerlain, an antiseptic dentifrice that occupied an important place in the house’s catalog as part of its dedication not only to beauty but also to hygiene and personal care. This dual focus reflects Guerlain’s broader vision during the early 20th century, when the company offered both luxury perfumes and practical apothecary items.

The bottle itself was distinguished by a sealing method unique to this product. Around the neck, a strip of paper in blue, black, and white—printed with the name Guerlain—was carefully wrapped, serving as both a hygienic safeguard and a branded detail. This seal was secured with a narrow black ribbon threaded through the space in the stopper, ensuring that the contents remained untouched until use. The presentation thus communicated both reliability and elegance, underscoring Guerlain’s ability to elevate even the most functional articles.

Manufactured by Pochet et du Courval, the bottle was produced in four moulds over its lifespan. Each bore an embossed marking on the base reading Guerlain Made in France, a practical identifier that also affirmed its authenticity. While less decorative than Guerlain’s perfume bottles, the Flacon Elixir was nevertheless a thoughtfully conceived vessel, one that reflected the house’s standards of quality and refinement.

Produced until 1939, the Flacon Elixir is now a rare example of Guerlain’s early ventures into hygienic products, representing a fascinating intersection between luxury branding and everyday health care. Today, surviving examples serve as important reminders of the breadth of Guerlain’s historical offerings and the artistry the house extended even to its most utilitarian designs.

Sizes:


  • Mould # 14562 = 15cc/15ml/0.5 oz - 7cm/2.76" (1930-1939)
  • Mould # 15053 = 83cc/83ml/2.81 oz - 11cm/4.33" (1930-1939)
  • Mould # 12504 = 160cc/160ml/5.41 oz - 15.5cm/6.1" (1909-1939)
  • Mould # 12640 = 500cc/500ml/16.9 oz - 19.5cm/7.68" (1910-1939)


Bottle:



Flacon Eau de Guerlain c1974-1993

The Flacon Eau de Guerlain (1974–1993) was a strikingly original design created by sculptor Robert Granai in 1973. Granai, who frequently drew inspiration from nature, history, and archaeology, conceived the bottle after studying primitive stone-age tools in the museum of Saint-Germain-en-Laye. In particular, he was captivated by hand-worked sandstone fishing net weights, whose irregular, rounded shapes and notched edges were both functional and evocative. This archaeological reference connects seamlessly with the fragrance’s theme, as the utilitarian tools were linked to water—an association that resonates with the very name Eau de Guerlain.

The resulting bottle is a sculptural work in itself: its clear glass body is rounded with softly irregular curves, featuring a deeply grooved central indentation that emphasizes both tactility and movement. This organic, stone-like quality gives the flacon an elemental character, as though it had been smoothed and shaped by time and water. The design captures the spirit of Granai’s artistic approach, where everyday or ancient objects were elevated into refined, modern forms.

Fitted with a matching gilded screw cap, the bottle was dedicated exclusively to Eau de Guerlain and was never repurposed for other fragrances. Its production was undertaken by several glassmakers: Pochet et du Courval created four moulds, while Saint-Gobain Desjonqueres contributed two, ensuring both technical precision and consistency in this unusual design.

Produced for nearly two decades, the Flacon Eau de Guerlain remains one of the house’s most distinctive modern presentations—a bottle that bridges the worlds of art, history, and perfumery while perfectly embodying the elemental freshness of the fragrance it contained.

Sizes:


Pochet et du Courval:

  • Mould #23256 = 125cc/125ml/4.2 oz - 11.5cm/4.53" (1982)
  • Mould #23258 = 250cc/250ml/8.4 oz - 16cm/6.3" (1982) 
  • Mould # 21043 = 500cc/500ml/16.9 oz - 18cm/7.09" 
  • Mould #7 = 1 liter/1000ml - 21cm/8.27"

Gold screw stopper with "Eau de Guerlain" on the top.


Saint-Gobain Desjonqueres:
  • Mould #52105 (plan # 66490) = 125ml, base engraved "SGD"  (1973)
  • Mould # 52106 (plan # 66491) = 250ml, base engraved "Bottle Made in France -  Guerlain - Copyright 1973 - SHD" (1973)

Bottles:



 

Guerlain's Talc de Toilette

 Guerlain's Talc de Toilette was housed inside of a tin enameled in blue, off white and black.