The perfume emerged during the 1940s, a turbulent period marked by the Second World War and its aftermath. Despite the global upheaval, perfumery continued to evolve, with exotic and oriental fragrances appealing to consumers eager for escapism, fantasy, and sophistication. The choice of the name Dawamesk reflects this fascination with the “Orient,” connecting European luxury fragrance culture to a faraway world of spice markets, palaces, and sensual delicacies. For women of the time, the name alone suggested mystery, opulence, and a subtle eroticism, framing the fragrance as not only a scent but an experience of indulgence and elegance.
Olfactorily, Dawamesk is classified as an oriental fougère for women, blending warm, resinous, and aromatic notes into a rich, complex composition. The perfume evokes the textures of its namesake: the sweetness of sugared almonds and vanilla, the powdery warmth of cinnamon and clove, and the subtle floral lift of rose. Musk and balsamic resins provide a lingering sensuality, reminiscent of the aphrodisiac qualities historically attributed to the pastry. In the context of contemporary perfumes, Dawamesk was both aligned with the oriental trend that had captivated European perfumery since the early 20th century, yet distinguished itself through its layered, gourmand-like richness and its daring evocation of a Middle Eastern culinary tradition, making it simultaneously familiar and exotic, luxurious and imaginative.
Guerlain’s creation allowed women to experience a sense of refinement and exotic allure, embodying a luxurious, worldly sophistication that transcended its era. The fragrance’s narrative, exotic name, and richly textured composition positioned it as a bold, opulent statement, a perfume that invited the wearer to embrace both elegance and mystery, making Dawamesk an enduring testament to the house’s inventive spirit.
Fragrance Composition:
What does it smell like? Classified as an oriental fougère for women, Dawamesk blends warm, resinous, and aromatic notes to create a sophisticated and opulent composition evocative of its Middle Eastern namesake.
Dawamesk, despite its enduring popularity, was eventually discontinued, though the exact date remains unknown. Historical records confirm that the fragrance continued to be sold as late as 1955, attesting to its lasting appeal over more than a decade of production. Its sustained presence on the market during this period reflects both the timeless quality of Guerlain’s compositions and the perfume’s resonance with audiences who appreciated its rich, oriental fougère character. Even after its discontinuation, Dawamesk remains celebrated among collectors and connoisseurs for its intricate, luxurious scent and the exquisite flacons in which it was presented, preserving its legacy as one of Guerlain’s most opulent and evocative creations.
- Top notes: bergamot, orange, orange blossom, violet, lavender, heliotrope
- Middle notes: jasmine, rose, ylang ylang, lily of the valley, sage, pistachio, nutmeg, clove, cinnamon, orris
- Base notes: almond, tobacco, ambergris, sandalwood, vanilla, benzoin, tonka bean, oakmoss, musk, leather and castoreum
Scent Profile:
Dawamesk by Guerlain, an oriental fougère for women, opens with an exquisite interplay of citrus and floral top notes, immediately inviting the senses into a luminous, sun-drenched world. The bergamot—likely sourced from Calabria, Italy—is bright, sparkling, and slightly green, with high levels of limonene giving it a crisp, radiant edge. It blends seamlessly with sweet orange, its cheerful juiciness warmed by subtle bitter undertones, and the ethereal orange blossom, with its indolic floralcy that hints at honeyed creaminess. Violet adds a soft, powdery lift, while lavender—perhaps from the high-altitude fields of Provence, prized for its aromatic purity—lends an herbaceous, aromatic freshness. Heliotrope rounds out the top with its almond-like, vanillic warmth, foreshadowing the gourmand sophistication of the heart and base.
At the heart, the fragrance blossoms into a rich floral bouquet layered with warm, exotic spices. Jasmine, sourced from Egypt or India, exudes a creamy, narcotic floralcy high in benzyl acetate and indoles, lending an opulent, sensual richness. Rose unfolds with a slightly animalic edge from rose otto, balancing the jasmine’s softness. Ylang ylang from Madagascar brings a heavy, creamy, tropical floral facet, while the delicate lily of the valley lends green, dewy freshness. The composition deepens with aromatic and spicy elements: sage adds a camphorous herbal brightness, pistachio introduces a soft, nutty gourmand nuance, and nutmeg, clove, and cinnamon contribute a warm, slightly resinous spiciness. The inclusion of orris root—the buttery, violet-like essence derived from Italian orris rhizomes—enhances the powdery elegance of the bouquet.
The base of Dawamesk is an intoxicating symphony of gourmand, resinous, and animalic richness. Almond adds a soft, edible sweetness, perfectly echoing the pistachio and heliotrope. Tobacco imbues the scent with a warm, slightly smoky nuance, complementing the ambergris, which offers a sensual, marine-animalic warmth that lifts the composition without heaviness. Sandalwood from Mysore, prized for its creamy, milky, and enduring aroma due to high alpha-santalol content, gives the fragrance a soft woody depth. Vanilla, tonka bean, and benzoin enrich the perfume with balsamic sweetness and vanillic warmth, while oakmoss provides a subtle, earthy underpinning. Musk, leather, and castoreum round out the base with a sophisticated animalic resonance, evoking both elegance and sensuality.
Every note in Dawamesk is carefully balanced, creating a layered, complex perfume that is simultaneously warm, exotic, gourmand, and sensual. The interplay of citrus, opulent florals, delicate spices, and rich gourmand-animalic bases results in a fragrance that is evocative of luxurious Middle Eastern pastries and ancient opulent spice markets. Synthetic elements subtly enhance the natural ingredients, stabilizing the volatile florals, amplifying vanillic notes, and giving lasting projection to the animalic and resinous base, ensuring the perfume carries a sophisticated, enduring sillage from first bloom to the final whisper of musk.
This composition is both a sensory journey and an olfactory narrative, inviting the wearer to experience opulence, warmth, and indulgent sensuality in a single, timeless signature.
Bottles:
Dawamesk was presented in several exquisite flacons, each reflecting the elegance and refinement of Guerlain’s design ethos. The Quadrilobe bottle—parfum concentration—offered a stately, geometric silhouette, its stopper's four-lobed form evoking symmetry and precision, a subtle nod to architectural elegance. The bowtie bottle, crafted by Cristalleries de Baccarat, was a jewel-like presentation, cobalt or clear crystal shaped into the form of a bow, known as the “Noeud Papillon.” The curved lines of the bow and its polished crystal surface played with light, creating a visual richness that mirrored the perfume’s luxurious composition, making the bottle itself feel like an objet d’art.
From 1955 onward, Dawamesk was also offered in the Amphore flacon (parfum), a design inspired by ancient Greco-Roman urns. Its elongated, graceful shape evoked classical refinement and sophistication, perfectly suited to the opulent and exotic character of the fragrance. For those seeking a lighter, more everyday version, the perfume was available in the Goutte flacon as an eau de toilette, its droplet-like shape suggesting softness and fluidity, a visual metaphor for the airy, aromatic top notes that first greet the senses.
Across all presentations, the bottles and flacons reinforced the narrative of luxury, artistry, and timeless elegance. Each design enhanced the experience of Dawamesk—not merely a fragrance, but a total sensory statement combining visual beauty, tactile pleasure, and olfactory sophistication.
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