Lavande c1840

Lavande by Guerlain was introduced in 1840, at a time when perfumery in France was flourishing and evolving into a sophisticated art form. The name Lavande is French for “lavender” (pronounced lah-vahnd) and immediately evokes the aromatic, sun-soaked fields of Provence, where French lavender is traditionally cultivated. French lavender is prized for its delicate, herbaceous floral scent, more refined and soft than the slightly camphorous and sharper aroma of English or Mitcham lavender. Lavender had long been a cornerstone of French perfumery, valued for its versatility: it was used to scent soaps, sachets, linens, and perfumes, and even believed to have calming, antiseptic, and restorative properties. The word Lavande conjures images of pale purple fields under a golden sun, evoking serenity, freshness, and timeless elegance.

The period in which Lavande was launched was marked by the Romantic era in France, a time when fashion emphasized refinement, ornamentation, and personal expression. Women of the 1840s would have related to a perfume called Lavande as a hallmark of sophistication and taste, a fragrance that reflected both natural beauty and cultivated elegance. In scent, the name Lavande signals a crisp, aromatic floral note—herbaceous, slightly woody, and subtly powdery—often forming the backbone of fougère or chypre compositions that were popular at the time. Lavande stood as both a classic and contemporary fragrance, integrating the rich traditions of French aromatics while allowing room for the perfumer’s artistry.

During the 19th century, lavender fragrances were widely embraced, and nearly every perfumery offered its own version. Recipes appeared in numerous formulary collections, and perfumers often personalized them, adjusting proportions or adding subtle accents to distinguish their creations. Guerlain’s decision to launch an updated Lavande in 1840 was consistent with this practice, providing a fragrance that was both familiar and elevated. Early formulations relied heavily on natural extracts, tinctures, and infusions of true French lavender. By the latter part of the century, the introduction of synthetics and aroma chemicals—used either to replicate the costlier natural oils or to amplify certain facets of the scent—allowed perfumers to enhance clarity, longevity, and radiance, ensuring that Lavande could maintain its fresh, herbaceous character while keeping pace with evolving trends.

In this context, Lavande by Guerlain occupies a dual position: it honors the long-established role of lavender in French perfumery while also offering a refined, expressive signature unique to the House of Guerlain, bridging tradition and innovation. Its strong lavender note, structured within a fougère or chypre framework, would have resonated with women seeking elegance, subtlety, and the timeless sophistication that defined early 19th-century French fragrance.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Lavande by Guerlain is classified as a classic fougere or chypre fragrance with a strong lavender note.

• Top notes: lemon, bergamot
• Middle notes: Provencal lavender, galbanum
• Base notes: labdanum, ambergris, sandalwood, oakmoss and vetiver

Scent Profile:

Lavande by Guerlain opens with a luminous top of lemon and bergamot that instantly lifts the senses. The Italian bergamot, celebrated for its delicate balance of sweetness and subtle bitterness, offers a sparkling, sun-drenched quality, while the lemon contributes a sharp, invigorating zest. Together, these top notes create an effervescent, bright introduction, like sunlight scattering across the rolling hills of Provence. Naturally occurring aroma compounds such as limonene in both fruits contribute their fresh, citrusy brilliance, and trace linalool adds a soft floral undertone. Modern synthetics may be subtly incorporated to stabilize these volatile citrus notes, ensuring the opening retains clarity and brilliance over time.

The heart of the fragrance reveals the star of the composition: Provençal lavender, paired with galbanum. The lavender, harvested from southern France’s sun-soaked fields, is rich in linalyl acetate and linalool, producing its signature herbaceous, slightly powdery aroma that is softer and more aromatic than the camphorous English varieties. Galbanum, a resin with a deep green, balsamic character, enhances the lavender’s clarity while adding a sharp, leafy freshness, creating a nuanced contrast that evokes the fragrance of wild Provencal meadows. The combination of these notes produces a complex, herbaceous floral heart that is both uplifting and grounded.

The base unfolds with warm, resinous, and earthy notes that provide depth and longevity. Labdanum contributes a rich, amber-like sweetness, while ambergris introduces a subtle marine warmth and soft animalic nuance. Sandalwood offers creamy, velvety woodiness, oakmoss adds the classic chypre character with its earthy, forest-floor quality, and vetiver lends a smoky, dry, rooty elegance. The naturally occurring compounds in these materials—such as vetiverol, ambrein, and labdanum’s labdanolic acids—combine to create a base that is both sophisticated and enduring. Synthetics can be used sparingly to enhance the tenacity of these base notes, ensuring that the fragrance evolves gracefully without losing its natural charm.

The overall effect is a masterfully balanced fougère or chypre: the sparkling citrus top, the aromatic, herbaceous heart, and the warm, earthy base harmonize to showcase the lavender at its most refined. Lavande evokes the serene beauty of 19th-century French landscapes and the elegance of classical perfumery, combining natural richness with subtle modern enhancements to create a fragrance that is at once timeless and profoundly evocative.

Bottles:

Lavande was originally presented in the elegant white bee flacon and the Carré flacon, reflecting the refined simplicity favored in the 19th century. By 1902, Guerlain expanded its presentations, offering the fragrance in the Empire flacon for parfum, exuding classical grandeur with its neoclassical motifs. In 1908, the Quadrilobe flacon was introduced for parfum, its faceted design emphasizing luxury and geometric precision, while the Louis XVI flacon also appeared around 1902, with its intricate, regal lines paying homage to the ornate French heritage.

From 1923 onward, the Goutte flacon was used for the eau de toilette, a more accessible form of the fragrance designed for daily use, its teardrop shape emphasizing elegance and practicality. Between 1935 and 1943, the parfum was housed in the striking cobalt blue Lanterne flacon, whose deep blue hue and lantern-inspired shape conveyed both sophistication and modernity, perfectly complementing the timeless herbaceous and amber character of Lavande. Each flacon reflects not only the aesthetic preferences of its era but also Guerlain’s enduring commitment to craftsmanship and presentation.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Lavande by Guerlain was first introduced in 1840, a period when French perfumery was embracing refined, aromatic compositions and herbaceous notes were highly fashionable. This fragrance, with its strong lavender character, quickly became a classic, appealing to women who sought both elegance and freshness in a perfume. Over the years, it maintained its presence on the market, reflecting Guerlain’s dedication to timeless craftsmanship and the enduring popularity of lavender-based fougère and chypre fragrances.

The exact date of its discontinuation is unknown, though records indicate that Lavande was still being sold in 1953, more than a century after its initial release. Its long lifespan highlights the fragrance’s consistent appeal and Guerlain’s skill in creating a perfume that could transcend shifting fashions and trends. Despite its eventual disappearance from the active catalogue, Lavande remains a significant example of 19th-century French perfumery and continues to be appreciated by collectors and fragrance historians today.