Saturday, February 9, 2013

Plus Que Jamais c2005

Plus Que Jamais by Guerlain was launched in 2005 as a tribute to the reopening of the Maison Guerlain boutique on the Champs-Élysées — the very heart of Parisian luxury and the spiritual home of the brand. Jean-Paul Guerlain, the last in the family line of master perfumers, composed the fragrance as both a personal statement and a celebration of Guerlain’s creative legacy. The name, Plus Que Jamais — French for “More Than Ever” (pronounced "ploo keh zhah-meh") — captures a sense of renewal and enduring excellence. It evokes the feeling that Guerlain, even after nearly two centuries, was still capable of surpassing itself — more elegant, more refined, and more alive than ever. The name suggests devotion, passion, and persistence — a phrase that resonates as both a declaration of love and an affirmation of identity.

The imagery surrounding Plus Que Jamais is rich with emotion. The words conjure an image of Paris at dusk — the gilded light reflecting off the façades of the Champs-Élysées, the scent of warm amber and powdery florals drifting through the evening air. It is a name that speaks of eternal sophistication and romantic confidence, the kind that only comes from a house with such storied heritage. The fragrance invites one to embrace the present moment with intensity — to love, to live, and to feel “more than ever.”

The mid-2000s marked a transitional period in perfumery — a time when houses were beginning to rediscover craftsmanship and exclusivity after a decade of mass-market releases. The niche fragrance movement was rising, and historic brands like Guerlain sought to reaffirm their artisanal roots. Plus Que Jamais emerged in this context as both a statement of continuity and a counterpoint to the minimalist trends dominating the early 2000s. While clean musks, ozonic florals, and gourmand notes were popular, Guerlain leaned back into its tradition — rich oriental accords, opulent florals, and the unmistakable Guerlinade base that defined its classics.

For women of the time, Plus Que Jamais embodied timeless Parisian femininity. It wasn’t merely a scent; it was an attitude — confident yet graceful, sophisticated yet emotional. It would have appealed to women who admired tradition but desired a modern expression of it, those who found allure in craftsmanship and the quiet power of legacy. In scent, the phrase Plus Que Jamais would be interpreted as layers of sensual warmth and depth — floral heart notes wrapped in ambered sweetness, underscored by Guerlain’s signature vanilla and tonka bean.

In the context of its era, Plus Que Jamais stood apart. It was not chasing contemporary trends but rather reaffirming the artistry of French perfumery. It was classic Guerlain — unapologetically luxurious, deeply emotive, and rooted in the brand’s history, yet still resonating “more than ever” with the spirit of modern elegance.


Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? Plus Que Jamais is classified as a floral oriental fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: aldehydes, Calabrian bergamot and Tunisian neroli
  • Middle notes: Comoros ylang ylang , jasmine, rose and iris
  • Base notes: Bourbon vanilla, ambergris, vetiver and precious woods
 

Scent Profile:


Plus Que Jamais opens like the first inhale of morning light over Paris — radiant, effervescent, and alive. The first impression shimmers with aldehydes, those airy molecules that give a champagne-like sparkle to the composition. They lend a crisp, almost metallic brightness, magnifying the citrus accord that follows. From southern Italy comes Calabrian bergamot, prized for its uniquely nuanced aroma — more floral and rounded than the sharper bergamots from other regions. Its natural compounds, such as linalyl acetate and limonene, produce a soft, luminous freshness that feels simultaneously sunny and sophisticated. Intertwined with it is Tunisian neroli, distilled from the delicate blossoms of the bitter orange tree. Neroli from Tunisia is known for its luminous purity and honeyed undertone, richer and warmer than its Moroccan or Egyptian cousins. Together, these notes form a radiant halo — a breath of dawn before the heart of the fragrance unfolds.

As the aldehydic brightness settles, the floral heart of Plus Que Jamais unfurls like silk. The perfume’s sensual core is built around ylang-ylang from the Comoros, whose golden petals exude an opulent, creamy sweetness. Ylang-ylang is rich in benzyl acetate and p-cresyl methyl ether — molecules that contribute to its narcotic, almost tropical warmth. In this blend, it feels like liquid gold, melting into jasmine, likely of the grandiflorum variety, offering a narcotic bloom of indolic sensuality. Its indoles, the natural compounds that give jasmine its deep, animalic undertone, create a human warmth beneath the floral brightness. Rose, likely a blend of Bulgarian and Turkish varieties, introduces a velvety richness; its citronellol and phenylethyl alcohol contribute a natural freshness tinged with dew. Iris, derived from aged orris rhizomes, adds the powdery texture that Guerlain has long been known for — buttery, cool, and slightly earthy, creating a tactile softness that lingers like the scent of fine face powder and silk gloves.

The base of Plus Que Jamais reveals itself slowly, like embers glowing in the evening. Bourbon vanilla from Madagascar — rich in vanillin and coumarin — gives the perfume a voluptuous sweetness, warm but never cloying. Its depth is balanced by ambergris, that rare marine treasure formed in the sea and aged by time. Ambergris lends a soft, animalic warmth and a diffusive radiance that no synthetic can perfectly mimic, though modern perfumery often enhances it with ambroxide to replicate its velvety projection. Vetiver, likely from Haiti, brings an earthy, woody dryness — its vetiverol and khusimol molecules grounding the sweetness with green, rooty strength. The precious woods — a Guerlain signature — wrap the entire composition in refinement, likely a blend of sandalwood and cedar that provides a creamy, resinous structure.

As the scent evolves, Plus Que Jamais moves from bright aldehydic radiance to floral opulence, and finally to a golden, ambery softness. The natural ingredients and their synthetic counterparts intertwine seamlessly — the aldehydes amplifying the citrus, the synthetics supporting the florals, and the resins deepening the base — to create a perfume that feels both timeless and modern. It is at once luminous and sensual, elegant yet intimate — a love letter to the house of Guerlain itself, composed “more than ever” with mastery, warmth, and devotion.


Bottles:


The prestige edition of Plus Que Jamais was presented in one of Guerlain’s most breathtaking luxury formats — a 500 ml quadrilobe flacon, masterfully crafted from Baccarat crystal. This bottle, with its elegant symmetry and timeless form, pays homage to the storied heritage of Guerlain’s perfume artistry, echoing the same silhouette that has housed many of the house’s most iconic creations since 1908. The crystal itself captures and refracts light with exquisite clarity, allowing the golden amber perfume within to shimmer like captured sunlight. Each flacon was sealed with silk in the traditional manner, a gesture that recalls the house’s 19th-century packaging rituals. An ivory-toned label, refined and understated, graces the front, while the neck is adorned with a necklace of baroque pearls — a detail symbolic of timeless femininity and grace. This limited edition, retailing for $2,600, came as a collector’s set: a 7.5 ml refillable bottle for personal use and a 490 ml refill flacon of parfum, a testament to Guerlain’s blend of opulence and practicality, crafted for the true devotee.

For admirers seeking a more accessible expression, Guerlain released an eau de parfum version housed in a 60 ml flacon fitted with an atomizer. This version retained the refined aesthetics and craftsmanship associated with the house, presented at a more attainable level. Priced at $400, the set included a 7.5 ml refillable bottle of eau de parfum accompanied by a 50 ml refill, combining luxury with thoughtful convenience. Only 1,955 pieces of this edition were produced worldwide, a subtle nod to Guerlain’s founding year, 1828, and its long tradition of limited, artful releases that speak to collectors’ hearts.

Eventually, Plus Que Jamais found a more permanent home within Les Parisiennes, Guerlain’s exclusive collection that reimagines the house’s most beloved fragrances. In this incarnation, it was offered as a 125 ml Eau de Parfum, presented in the elegant, ribbed “bee bottle” — a tribute to the emblem of Napoleon III, which Guerlain first adopted in 1853. Retailing for $318, this version made Plus Que Jamais accessible once more to those seeking to wear a piece of Guerlain’s modern legacy — a fragrance that bridges the house’s storied past and its ever-evolving artistry.






Fate of the Fragrance:


Discontinued as of 2009.

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