Saturday, February 9, 2013

Prince Albert's Bouquet 1840

Prince Albert’s Bouquet by Guerlain, launched in 1840, was one of the earliest examples of a “court perfume”—a fragrance created to honor a royal figure or occasion. It was composed by Pierre-François Pascal Guerlain, the founder of the house, to celebrate the marriage of Queen Victoria and Prince Albert of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha, an event that captivated all of Europe. Prince Albert (1819–1861), born in Germany and later the beloved consort of Queen Victoria, embodied refinement, education, and moral dignity. His marriage to the young queen in February 1840 symbolized both romance and duty, setting a tone of elegance and sentimentality that deeply influenced the tastes of the Victorian age.

The name “Prince Albert’s Bouquet” (pronounced Prinss Al-bertz Boo-kay) was intentionally rendered in English rather than French—a thoughtful gesture aimed at Guerlain’s growing English clientele living in Paris. In French, it would have been Bouquet du Prince Albert, but using English gave it an air of cosmopolitan sophistication and directly associated it with the British court. The word bouquet, meaning “a gathering of flowers” or “a harmonious blend of scents,” evokes both olfactory beauty and emotional warmth. In this context, it symbolizes the royal groom’s floral tribute—his gift to his bride, the young Queen Victoria. The very name conjures images of chivalry, polished boots, and the glittering refinement of royal ceremony—of silken gloves scented with flowers and candlelight reflected in gilt mirrors.

The year 1840 belonged to the early Victorian era, a time of optimism and change following years of political turbulence in Europe. This was the dawn of industrial innovation, artistic romanticism, and expanding global trade—which also brought new exotic materials into perfumery: spices from the East, resins from the Levant, and citrus oils from the Mediterranean. Fashion in London and Paris leaned toward refinement and modesty; women wore full skirts and corseted bodices, while men favored tailored frock coats and gleaming cravats. Perfume was both an adornment and a social signifier, and fragrances named after royals or “court favorites” were immensely fashionable. Guerlain’s Prince Albert’s Bouquet and its feminine counterpart Bouquet de Victoria fit perfectly into this trend, appealing to the sentimental, romantic imagination of the age.

In scent, Prince Albert’s Bouquet was described as an aromatic floral oriental, suitable for both men and women—a rare unisex appeal for the time. Perfumes under this name across different houses followed a general structure blending spices, resins, and florals. One can imagine it opening with bright citrus—bergamot and lemon—to mirror the freshness of a bridal morning, followed by lavender and aromatic herbs giving a courtly refinement. The heart bloomed with rose, jasmine, and orange blossom, symbolizing purity and romantic devotion, while a warm base of amber, benzoin, musk, and sandalwood lent richness and longevity. This combination reflected early 19th-century perfumery’s transition from the delicate floral waters of the previous century toward fuller, more opulent compositions.

During the mid-1800s, nearly every respected perfumer had a “Prince Albert’s Bouquet” in their line—among them John Gosnell & Co., Robert Best Ede, and other British houses. These were part of a larger movement in which perfumers created “royal bouquets” to commemorate important occasions, both out of genuine homage and in hopes of earning a royal warrant. Fragrances such as Victoria Bouquet, Adelaide Bouquet, and Prince of Wales’s Bouquet proliferated, each echoing the grace and sentiment of royal life. Guerlain’s version, however, distinguished itself through its refinement and balance—hallmarks of Pierre-François Pascal Guerlain’s style, which combined the precision of a chemist with the heart of an artist.

To the fashionable women and gentlemen of the 1840s, Prince Albert’s Bouquet would have represented not merely a perfume but an idea—a token of refinement, romance, and allegiance to the new Victorian ideals of moral beauty and restraint. It was a fragrance for the modern age of its day: grounded in the natural materials of the Old World yet reaching toward the sophistication of the industrial and imperial future. In that sense, Prince Albert’s Bouquet bridged two worlds—one of royal ceremony and one of modern aspiration—capturing in scent the dignity, devotion, and quiet grandeur of an era just beginning to define itself.




Fragrance Composition
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So what does it smell like? Prince Albert’s Bouquet is classified as an aromatic floral oriental fragrance for men and women.
  • Top notes: neroli, lemon, citron, bergamot, orange, cassie, angelica
  • Middle notes: cloves, lavender, rosemary, cardamom, orange blossom, jasmine, tuberose, rose
  • Base notes: clary sage, ambergris, civet, musk, balsam of Peru, tonka bean, sandalwood, vanilla, benzoin

Scent Profile:


Prince Albert’s Bouquet unfolds like a courtly ceremony in scent—a fragrance of stately grace and intimate warmth, perfectly suited to the refined world of early Victorian society. Classified as an aromatic floral oriental, it bridges masculine and feminine sensibilities, offering both strength and sentiment in a single breath. Each note feels deliberate, as though Pierre-François Pascal Guerlain composed it for the very moment Prince Albert took the hand of his young bride, Queen Victoria—an olfactory portrait of loyalty, tenderness, and noble restraint.

The opening is radiant and lively, as though sunlight pours through stained glass. Neroli—the distillation of orange blossoms from the bitter orange tree of Italy—spills into the air first, its luminous green-floral tone both sweet and faintly bitter. Neroli owes its crispness to linalool and nerolidol, naturally occurring aroma compounds that give it a clean, elegant lift. The effect is like white silk warmed by the morning sun. Lemon from Sicily follows, bright and cutting, its zest alive with citral and limonene, sparkling and joyful. 

Citron, that ancient citrus with its thick rind and little juice, lends a more aromatic, pithy brightness, its dry peel evoking polished leather gloves and freshly ironed linen. Bergamot, sourced from Calabria, softens this vivid introduction, weaving its smooth, floral-green nuances through the sharper lemon notes, a balance of light and shade that only this Italian fruit can achieve. Orange sweetens the accord, recalling candied peel and marmalade, while cassie—from the flowering acacia of Egypt—adds a delicate powdery mimosa-like warmth, faintly reminiscent of almond and violet. Finally, angelica root—earthy, musky, and faintly bitter—anchors this celestial opening with a herbal undercurrent, lending depth and dignity.

As the perfume unfolds, the heart blossoms like a Victorian bouquet, composed with both romance and intellect. Cloves lend warmth—spicy, peppery, and sweet—thanks to eugenol, the same compound found in carnations and bay leaves, which lends depth and a faint medicinal austerity. Lavender from Provence introduces calm and refinement, its linalyl acetate providing that unmistakable soapy-herbal freshness once associated with men’s colognes but beloved by women as well. Rosemary, brisk and camphorous, strengthens the aromatic spine of the composition, while cardamom adds its exotic whisper—cool, resinous, and faintly lemony—suggesting the global trade routes that defined 19th-century luxury.

The floral notes—orange blossom, jasmine, tuberose, and rose—compose the emotional heart of the fragrance. The orange blossom is radiant and pure, evoking bridal innocence. Jasmine, rich in indole, adds sensuality and warmth, suggesting a pulse beneath the decorum. Tuberose, narcotic and buttery, infuses the blend with creamy opulence—its scent, heady with methyl benzoate and indole, is both floral and faintly animalic. Rose, perhaps from Grasse or Bulgaria, ties them all together—its balance of citrusy freshness and honeyed sweetness perfectly harmonizing the more exotic florals. Together, they form a heart that feels both aristocratic and human—floral but never fragile, tender yet commanding.

As the perfume settles, the base reveals its oriental soul—a luxurious blend of resins, woods, and animalic warmth. Clary sage, with its ambery-herbal tone rich in sclareol, bridges the transition from flowers to the deeper materials below. Ambergris, the rare oceanic treasure once harvested from the sea, adds an elusive, salty warmth and a whisper of skin. Civet and musk, in the original formula likely of natural animal origin, deepen the sensuality—soft, warm, and faintly feral—but in modern reconstructions, these are replaced by ethical synthetics that perfectly replicate their creamy, skin-like glow. 

Balsam of Peru, with its sweet, vanilla-benzoin aroma, mingles with tonka bean—rich in coumarin, the molecule that smells of freshly cut hay and warm almond—to create a sense of comfort and familiarity. Sandalwood, likely from Mysore, lends a soft, milky richness, its santalols smoothing the entire structure like polished wood beneath the fingertips. Finally, vanilla and benzoin complete the symphony, the former creamy and gourmand, the latter resinous and honeyed, both enhancing the amber’s glow and tempering the spice.

Smelled as a whole, Prince Albert’s Bouquet feels regal yet intimate—a fragrance of harmony and grace. It opens with sunlight and ceremony, blossoms into the warmth of human connection, and settles into the quiet assurance of devotion. It speaks of satin waistcoats, gilded mirrors, and handwritten vows—yet remains timeless in its balance of freshness, warmth, and quiet sensuality. In its day, it was a perfume of celebration; today, it stands as a tender relic of a vanished elegance, still whispering of love, loyalty, and refinement in every note.


Fate of the Fragrance:


Most likely discontinued by 1900-1910.

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