La Petite Robe Noire Eau Fraiche - Ma Nouvelle Robe Pétales c2015

La Petite Robe Noire Eau Fraiche (Ma Robe Pétales) by Guerlain was introduced in March 2015 as a lighter, more playful flanker to the iconic La Petite Robe Noire fragrance. The launch was celebrated with a high-profile press event at Moscow’s Bolshoi Theatre, underscoring the perfume’s luxurious positioning and its appeal to sophisticated, fashion-conscious audiences. The name, in French, translates literally to “The Little Black Dress Fresh Water (My Petal Dress)” and is pronounced roughly as "la puh-tit rohb nwar oh fresh (ma rob pay-tal)". It evokes images of effortless elegance, flirtatious charm, and feminine grace—a delicate black dress adorned with soft petals, ready for a springtime soirée or an intimate evening out. The fragrance’s very title conveys freshness, movement, and the subtle flirtation of a garden in bloom, aligning perfectly with Guerlain’s tradition of combining sartorial imagery with olfactory artistry.

The mid-2010s, when this perfume debuted, were marked by a trend toward lighter, more wearable floral and green scents, reflecting a broader global fascination with natural freshness and a desire for fragrances that could transition easily from day to evening. Women of the time were increasingly seeking perfumes that were playful yet elegant, modern yet rooted in the heritage of classic perfumery. In this context, La Petite Robe Noire Eau Fraiche (Ma Robe Pétales) appealed to women who appreciated the storytelling and whimsy of Guerlain’s black dress motif but desired a composition that felt airy, luminous, and contemporary.

Created by Guerlain’s in-house master perfumer Thierry Wasser, the fragrance is classified as a green floral, capturing the essence of spring gardens with light, sparkling notes. Its scent composition is both elegant and approachable, balancing floral brightness with green freshness in a way that harmonized with market trends of the period, yet retained Guerlain’s signature sophistication. In comparison to other fragrances available in 2015, it blended the house’s storied heritage with a modern sensibility—light, flirtatious, and effortlessly chic—making it a standout choice for women seeking both refinement and freshness in their daily fragrance wardrobe.

La Petite Robe Noire Eau Fraiche (Ma Robe Pétales) unfolds as a playful and luminous interpretation of Guerlain’s iconic black dress motif, described by the house as the “new Petals Dress.” The fragrance is presented in the instantly recognizable rounded glass bottle, its inverted heart-shaped cap perched like a crown atop the tenderly green lacquered flacon. The sketch of the low-cut petal dress on the bottle is rendered in black ink, creating a visual harmony with the translucent glass that hints at the freshness and lightness contained within. This playful exterior signals the scent’s character: sparkling, merry, and full of the joie de vivre that defines Guerlain’s modern elegance.

On first inhalation, the top notes burst with sparkling mandarin, a citrus that radiates bright, effervescent energy, evoking the sensation of sunlight hitting dewy spring gardens. The initial citrusy zest is enhanced by a delicate rain of green notes, imparting a crisp, almost watery freshness that lifts the spirit. As the heart unfolds, rose petals emerge with a tender floral warmth, interlaced with freesia and apricot, adding a luminous, slightly fruity nuance. These elements evoke the soft caress of spring blooms, their airy, sparkling facets dancing in harmony with subtle solar notes that suggest sun-dappled petals and the gentle warmth of daylight.

The fragrance’s gourmand signature is revealed in the heart’s pistachio, a savory, slightly nutty note that Guerlain has long used as a hallmark of the house style. Its presence adds depth and textural intrigue, balancing the florals with a creamy, subtly gourmand gourmand accent. In the base, white musk and patchouli create a soft, lingering halo, wrapping the wearer in a silky, comforting veil that blends delicacy with sensuality. The musk lends an airy warmth, while patchouli adds understated earthiness, grounding the airy florals in a subtle, elegant complexity.

Thierry Wasser’s composition exemplifies a masterful orchestration of floral and green elements, interwoven with gourmand and woody nuances. The fragrance captures the poetry of spring flowers—vivid, sparkling, and infinitely feminine—while retaining Guerlain’s signature sophistication. It is both fresh and flirtatious, a modern reinterpretation of the “Little Black Dress” motif: essential, glamorous, and irresistibly chic, designed to enchant the senses while celebrating the joyful elegance of the Maison Guerlain.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a green floral fragrance for women.

• Top notes: bergamot, tangerine, mandarin orange, lemon, green notes, orange blossom
• Middle notes: freesia, apricot, almond blossom, Turkish rose, Bulgarian Rose, jasmine Sambac
• Base notes: solar notes, pistachio, almond, tonka bean, patchouli, white musk

Scent Profile:

La Petite Robe Noire Eau Fraîche (Ma Robe Pétales) opens with a radiant burst of bergamot, tangerine, mandarin orange, and lemon, each playing a role in creating a sparkling citrus overture. The bergamot, grown in Calabria, Italy, offers a uniquely bright, slightly floral citrusiness with subtle green nuances, richer and rounder than other bergamot varieties. The tangerine and mandarin orange contribute a soft, sweet tanginess, while the lemon adds a sharp, zesty lift. Interwoven among these citrus notes are green notes, imparting a crisp, freshly cut leaf aroma that evokes early spring meadows, and orange blossom, whose delicate floral sweetness is simultaneously soft, radiant, and almost luminous. The effect is like opening a sun-drenched bouquet of dewy flowers at dawn, both vibrant and effervescent.

In the heart, the fragrance deepens into a symphony of floral and fruity nuances. Freesia contributes a bright, airy freshness with subtly peppery undertones, reminiscent of crisp spring air. Apricot adds a soft, juicy sweetness, balancing the florals with a lightly gourmand touch. Almond blossom brings delicate nutty, powdery facets that are ethereal yet slightly gourmand, creating a subtle creamy undertone. The composition is elevated by Turkish rose and Bulgarian rose, each distinguished by their country of origin: Turkish rose (Rosa damascena) is lush, warm, and intensely floral, with fruity hints, while Bulgarian rose is celebrated for its deep, rich, and honeyed aroma, providing a rounded, velvety body to the floral bouquet. Jasmine Sambac completes the heart with a radiant, almost solar floral note, dense and sweet, yet transparent, adding sensuality and lifting the bouquet with a delicate creaminess.

The base is a soft, enveloping halo that balances the brightness of the opening. Solar notes provide a luminous warmth, evoking the gentle touch of sunlight on petals. Pistachio and almond introduce a tender, creamy nuttiness, subtly gourmand without overwhelming the florals. Tonka bean enhances this gourmand facet further, bringing soft hints of vanilla, spice, and warmth. Patchouli adds earthy depth and structure, balancing the sweetness of the heart and providing a whisper of sophistication. Finally, white musk wraps the composition in a delicate, airy veil, enhancing longevity while keeping the overall effect fresh, soft, and ethereal.

Together, the fragrance unfolds as a celebration of springtime elegance: sparkling, gourmand, and softly floral, with each ingredient carefully selected to contribute to a harmonious and playful green-floral composition. The combination of rare regional ingredients—Calabrian bergamot, Turkish and Bulgarian roses, jasmine Sambac—with gourmand accents and modern green notes ensures a fragrance that is both whimsical and unmistakably Guerlain in its sophistication and artistry.

Bottles:

Available as:

• 30 ml Eau Fraiche
• 50 ml Eau Fraiche
• 100 ml Eau Fraiche
• 250 ml Eau Fraiche in white bee flacon (295,00 €)

Fleurs de Serre c1878

Launched around 1878, Fleurs de Serre by Guerlain takes its name from the French words for “Flowers of the Greenhouse,” pronounced roughly as "flur duh sair". The name evokes images of glass-domed conservatories filled with rare and exotic blooms, where the air is heavy with the intoxicating scent of carefully nurtured flowers. It conjures a sense of refined luxury, private indulgence, and an intimate connection with nature, capturing the romanticized charm of the greenhouse—a symbol of status and taste during the Belle Époque. The title itself suggests a controlled, cultivated elegance: the delicate blooms of the greenhouse, nurtured by human hands, transformed into a fragrance to be worn and admired.

The fragrance emerged during the Belle Époque, a period of optimism, cultural flourish, and technological progress in Europe, particularly France. During this era, the upper classes indulged in horticultural hobbies, cultivating their own personal greenhouses or conservatories to grow exotic plants and flowers that would otherwise not survive in the local climate. These structures were not only practical but a status symbol, reflecting wealth, sophistication, and the mastery of nature. In fashion and perfumery, this translated into a fascination with exotic florals and carefully composed bouquets, where perfumers sought to capture the essence of cultivated luxury in their compositions.

Fleurs de Serre would have been immediately appealing to women of the period, particularly those in the upper echelons of society who were accustomed to the private pleasures of conservatories and floral displays. The scent was interpreted as a lush, elegant floral fragrance, evoking the freshness of morning dew on petals and the rich, layered aroma of greenhouse-kept flowers. Its classification as a floral fragrance allowed it to align with the period’s preference for natural yet cultivated scents, capturing the sophistication and refinement expected of a luxury perfume. In the market of the late 19th century, while floral fragrances were widely popular, Fleurs de Serre stood out for its thematic connection to the exoticism and controlled opulence of greenhouse horticulture, marrying the natural with the cultivated in a way that was both modern and emblematic of the Belle Époque’s indulgent tastes.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Fleurs de Serre would unfold like stepping into a sun-drenched conservatory, where rare and exotic flowers bloom in a carefully orchestrated symphony. The top notes would likely greet you with the bright, dewy freshness of freshly cut petals, mingling with the subtle citrusy brightness of bergamot or orange—if Guerlain included a citrus touch as a lift, common in floral compositions of the period. This initial impression would be airy, luminous, and almost sparkling, like morning sunlight hitting water droplets on delicate blooms.

In the heart of the fragrance, the lush florals would emerge fully. Imagine rich tuberose, ylang-ylang, violet, and jasmine intertwined, each contributing its unique aroma: tuberose with its creamy, slightly animalic sweetness; ylang-ylang with a tropical, custardy warmth; violet with soft powdery violet leaves; and jasmine offering its opulent, indolic depth. These middle notes would evoke the heady, intoxicating atmosphere of a greenhouse filled with exotic blooms, dense but never overwhelming—a cultivated bouquet meant to convey elegance and refinement.

The base would linger like the moist earth and wooden supports of the conservatory itself, grounding the scent with warm, subtle musks, soft orris, and perhaps a hint of sandalwood or amber to add depth and longevity. The overall effect would be a sophisticated, layered floral: simultaneously fresh and powdery, delicate yet luxurious, evoking the intimate pleasure of a private garden filled with extraordinary blossoms. Worn, it would feel like a statement of cultivated taste and understated opulence, a perfume that whispers refinement rather than shouts.

De wereldtentoonstelling van 1878 te Parijs, 1878:

"GUERLAIN DE PARIS 15 rue de la Paix - Highly recommended and vogue articles: Eau de Cologne Impériale, Sapoceti toilet soap, Crême saponin, Ambrosial cream for the beard, Crême de Fraises to soften the skin, Poudre de Cypris for the skin white, the luxurious Crystallized Stilboide for the beard and hair, Eau Athénienne and Eau Lustrale to perfume and wash the head. For the handkerchief: Shore's Caprice, Parfum de France, Fleurs Nouvelles, Pao Rosa, Fleurs de Serre, Bouquet Imperial Russe. For the toilette: Eau de Cédrat and Eau de Chypre."

Journal des demoiselles, 1878:

"After the chill of winter, the fatigue of balls and social gatherings, and the sudden fluctuations of March weather, many young women and girls find their complexions dulled and tired. To restore the natural radiance and freshness of the face, Guerlain offers a range of carefully crafted preparations: Strawberry Cream, which can also be used as a soothing hand cream; Velvet Paste; and La Ferté Balm for the lips. These luxurious products may be used with complete confidence, and those who try them are sure to praise their effectiveness.

Monsieur Guerlain also provides a piece of essential advice: never apply rice powder over a layer of cold cream. Instead, alternate the use of these two cosmetics. The rice powder should be finely milled so that it adheres directly to the skin, applied with a puff, and removed gently by hand when needed.

For those who enjoy perfuming their handkerchiefs, Guerlain recommends the newest fragrances: Fleurs de Serre and Pao-Rosa, the latter offering a slightly more pronounced bouquet. The timeless classics, Perfume of France and Russian Imperial Bouquet, remain ever in fashion, securing their place as enduring favorites of French perfumery."

Bottles:

Presented in the Carre flacon.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown 

Shalimar - Nuit des Indes - Exceptional Flacon 2014

The Shalimar Exceptional Limited Edition Collector’s Flacon for Christmas 2014, christened Shalimar Indian Nights by Maison Gripoix, represents the pinnacle of perfume artistry and decorative mastery. At its heart lies Shalimar extrait, the purest and most voluptuous expression of Guerlain’s iconic oriental fragrance, contained within a monumental 1.5-litre cobalt blue crystal flacon masterfully crafted by Waltersperger. The deep midnight blue of the crystal, with its multiple meticulously faceted surfaces, captures and refracts light, producing a hypnotic interplay of shadow and shimmer that mirrors the allure and mystery of the fragrance itself.

Encircling the neck of this monumental bottle is a Gripoix necklace of extraordinary refinement: two rows of precious sapphire-colored glass beads, interwoven with glimmering iridescent pearls, set against rich 24-karat gold mounts. This exquisite adornment recalls the ceremonial garlands of flowers bestowed upon ancient Egyptian pharaohs and nobility, a symbol of both reverence and opulence. The jewel-like neck elevates the flacon from a vessel to a wearable objet d’art, a testimony to Maison Gripoix’s unmatched expertise in glass paste, enameling, and gilding—a craft the Parisian house has refined since 1828.

Limited to only 40 numbered copies worldwide and retailing at €9,500, this edition is as rare as it is breathtaking. The perfume within is the ultimate embodiment of oriental sophistication: a luminous burst of bergamot opens the senses with a sparkling freshness, quickly softened by an enveloping bouquet of iris, jasmine, and rose, each flower rendered in the densest, most sensual concentration. Beneath this floral heart, vanilla, opopanax, and tonka bean provide a rich, resonant base, exuding warmth and depth. In this colossal 1.5-litre format, Shalimar reaches the apex of its legendary sensuality—a provocative secret encased in a jewel of crystal and gold.

This edition is more than a perfume; it is a celebration of artistry, craftsmanship, and history. Waltersperger’s monumental glass, combined with Gripoix’s couture jewelry expertise, forms a dialogue between tradition and luxury, a perfect union of perfumer and artisan. The Shalimar Indian Nights flacon embodies a rare fusion of fragrance and finery, a tangible testament to Guerlain’s enduring devotion to both olfactory and visual beauty.

From Guerlain:

"For the first time ever, Guerlain is offering a special edition of the giant Shalimar glass bottle in a deep midnight blue. Thanks the tour de force of glass maker Waltersperger, the format and colour take the beauty of this exceptional bottle, whose multiple facets attain their full glory, to a new level. Guerlain commissioned Gripoix to put the sublime finishing touches on this amazing work of art. A perfect pairing between the perfumer, a devotee of craftsmanship since 1828, and the Paris couture jewellery maker. Jewels in hundreds deep blue glass and iridescent pearls mounted on fine 24 carats gold adorn he neck of the bottle. A finery fit for a prince and a symbol of the mystery and sensuality of the Shalimar legend. Only 40 numbered pieces are available worldwide.

In Extract form, the first ever oriental reaches the height of voluptuousness. Like a provocative secret, the dark bottle hides the warm amber tones of this decadent concentration. With a fresh opening burst of bergamot, followed by an enveloping armful of iris, jasmine and rose, over a vanilla, opopanax and tonka bean base. 1.5 litres of extreme sensuality…

 Founded in 1869, Gripoix has earned its reputation as the ultimate Parisian couture jewellery house and preserved the art of glass paste.These jewellery creations, steeped in precious emotions, are an encounter between the traditional art and know-how of adornment-makers, stone-setters, gilders and enamellers. True magicians whose skills bring these adornments to life."

 

 

Le Bolshoi - Black Swan - Saison 2014

Le Bolshoi – Black Swan by Guerlain, launched in 2014, continues the House’s ongoing homage to the prestigious Bolshoi Theatre in Moscow. This third edition for the theatre is presented in the familiar quadrilobe flacon, a shape long associated with Guerlain’s artistry, topped with a delicate atomizer that immediately evokes the elegance of classic perfume rituals. Unlike the two previous editions, which contained Les Secrets de Sophie, this iteration introduces a new olfactory journey—one described as woody, milky, fresh, and sparkling, centered around a prominent sandalwood note.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral woody musk fragrance for women.

• Top notes: milky accord, mandarin, lemon and bergamot
• Middle notes: lily of the valley, violet, rose and jasmine
• Base notes: white musk, vanilla, sandalwood and cedar

Scent Profile:

Le Bolshoi – Black Swan unfolds as a masterful floral woody musk, immediately inviting with its luminous top notes. The first impression is the delicate milky accord, smooth and comforting, reminiscent of soft silk brushing against the skin. Layered atop this are zesty citrus bursts: mandarin, lemon, and bergamot. Each brings its own character—the mandarin exudes sweet, sunny warmth, the lemon adds a sparkling brightness, and the bergamot offers a slightly green, aromatic nuance with a subtle bitterness that balances the sweet and creamy facets of the milk accord. Together, these top notes create an effervescent, airy opening that feels fresh yet sensually enveloping.

The heart of the fragrance blossoms into a bouquet of delicate florals. Lily of the valley offers a crisp, dewy freshness, often described as the scent of spring air after rain. Its natural hydroxycitronellal molecules give it a sweet, clean aroma, evoking purity and innocence. Violet lends powdery and green nuances, with its aldehydic facets adding a soft sophistication. The rose, likely a French or Bulgarian variety prized for its deep, honeyed richness, introduces warmth and sensuality through its natural citronellol and geraniol, which are responsible for its velvety, slightly spicy aroma. Finally, jasmine—potentially Sambac or Grandiflorum—adds a luminous, intoxicating floral opulence. Its naturally occurring benzyl acetate, indole, and jasmone provide both the creamy and slightly animalic aspects that enrich the composition. Together, the middle notes are intensely feminine, radiating elegance and depth while bridging the sparkling top with the sensual base.

The base notes provide a lingering, irresistible trail. White musk imparts a soft, skin-like warmth that enhances the florals and woods, creating a modern, sensuous aura. Vanilla, sourced perhaps from Madagascar, offers a sweet, slightly smoky richness, its vanillin molecules amplifying the creamy aspects of the milky accord while adding gourmand depth. Sandalwood, likely from Mysore or a similar high-quality origin, contributes velvety, woody creaminess, rich in natural santalols, giving the perfume a long-lasting, warm foundation. Finally, cedar adds structure and subtle dry woodiness, balancing the sweetness and keeping the fragrance elegant and refined.

In its entirety, this fragrance is a harmonious interplay of airy freshness, lush floral complexity, and creamy, sensual woods and musk. Each ingredient works in concert: the top notes spark with vitality, the middle notes seduce with timeless floral sophistication, and the base provides an intimate, enveloping finish that lingers softly on the skin. The perfume captures the essence of refinement and theatrical elegance, paying homage to the grandeur of the Bolshoi while remaining approachable, wearable, and deeply feminine.

Bottles:

Le Bolshoi – Black Swan was released as an exclusive creation, available only in limited quantities in Moscow, a testament to its unique collaboration with the Bolshoi Theatre. Housed in the signature Guerlain quadrilobe flacon topped with a classic atomizer, the perfume carried a sense of both elegance and theatrical grandeur, reflecting the prestige of the historic stage it celebrated.

The limited distribution and carefully curated quantity emphasized the rarity of the fragrance, making it a coveted collector’s item for connoisseurs and admirers of Guerlain’s artistry. Its 60ml flacon, retailing at 375 €, positioned it as a luxurious yet attainable indulgence for those seeking an exceptional scent experience. This exclusivity also reinforced the perfume’s intimate connection to Moscow’s cultural heritage, allowing wearers to carry a piece of the city’s operatic and ballet legacy with them.

In essence, the fragrance was not merely a scent but a celebration of artistry, performance, and refined craftsmanship—a limited-edition jewel designed for the most discerning collectors and admirers of Guerlain’s timeless elegance.

La Malle de Voyage - 160 Year Anniversary of the Bee Bottle c2013

La Malle de Voyage, created in 2013, stands as a striking celebration of Guerlain’s heritage, commemorating the 160th anniversary of the iconic bee bottle, or Abeille flacon. This extraordinary project brought together nine Maîtres d’art from the Institut National des Métiers d’Art (INMA) of France, granting each artisan complete creative freedom to design around a monumental one-litre bee bottle. The resulting pieces are not merely perfume containers but singular works of art—each a one-of-a-kind masterpiece embodying the finest craftsmanship of contemporary French artisans.

The artistic trunks were first displayed at the Maison Guerlain on the Champs-Élysées from December 2013 through February 2014 and later featured in Guerlain’s Exclusive Line Doors exhibitions in 2014, documented through both photographs and videos. These creations were destined not only as collector pieces but also to support the “Maîtres d’art – Students” initiative, ensuring that rare, exceptional skills are passed from master artists to apprentices under the supervision of the INMA.

 

Serge Amoruso, a Maître d’art specializing in rare leathers and trained at Hermès in traditional historical leather techniques, contributed a particularly striking trunk. His design, La Malle de Voyage (“The Travel Trunk”), is presented as two identical sections, split like a lightning bolt or a broken mold, evoking both movement and energy. The materials chosen are extraordinary: sumptuous red Morocco leather, delicately stamped parchment on the interior, midnight blue shagreen, and contrasting carbon fiber on the exterior. A fragment of meteorite crowns the trunk, symbolically opening the “doors of time” and infusing the work with a celestial, almost otherworldly allure.

Every element of La Malle de Voyage balances tradition and modernity, merging historical craftsmanship with contemporary artistic vision. The trunk exemplifies Guerlain’s dedication to artistic excellence and the preservation of rare artisanal skills, transforming the perfume bottle into a sculptural, narrative object that embodies both luxury and imagination.