Unter der Linden c1864

Launched around 1864, Unter den Linden was one of Guerlain’s early masterpieces—its name and spirit entwined with a sense of place, history, and cultivated refinement. The title, Unter den Linden, is German for “Under the Linden Trees,” pronounced [OON-ter den LIN-den] in simple phonetic terms. The phrase evokes imagery of strolling beneath a canopy of fragrant lime blossoms, where the soft hum of bees mingles with the gentle rustling of leaves in the summer air. Guerlain deliberately retained the German name to appeal to its growing German-speaking clientele, particularly those in Berlin, where the boulevard Unter den Linden symbolized prestige, intellectual culture, and cosmopolitan life.

Stretching from the Berlin Palace to the Brandenburg Gate, the avenue was lined with grand linden trees whose honeyed blossoms perfumed the air each spring. The linden—or “lime tree” in Britain and “basswood” in North America—bears no relation to the citrus fruit; instead, its small, cream-colored flowers exude a tender, powdery sweetness with delicate green undertones. To name a perfume Unter den Linden was to promise a romantic sensory journey: the scent of summer breezes over tree-lined boulevards, sunlight filtering through pale green leaves, and the soft murmur of carriages passing stately façades.

When Guerlain introduced this fragrance, Europe was in the midst of the Second Empire period (1852–1870)—an era of opulence, innovation, and modernity. Paris, under Napoleon III, was being transformed by Baron Haussmann’s grand boulevards; Berlin, too, was evolving into a city of art, intellect, and social grace. Fashion reflected this sense of elegant formality: women wore crinolines and voluminous skirts, adorned with lace and floral embellishments, embodying refinement and femininity. In perfumery, compositions often favored floral bouquets softened with balsamic and powdery notes—romantic rather than daring, designed to harmonize with the silks and satins of the era rather than to challenge convention.

For women of the mid-19th century, Unter den Linden would have represented both aspiration and nostalgia. It conjured the sophistication of continental travel, the prestige of European capitals, and the allure of nature refined through artistry. To wear such a fragrance was to wrap oneself in the memory of spring’s fleeting beauty—perhaps a wistful longing for purity amid the growing pace of modern life.

Interpreted in scent, Unter den Linden translates to a floral oriental (amber floral) fragrance, bridging freshness with warmth. The bouquet opens with luminous herbal and citrus notes, evoking sunlight through leaves, while the heart reveals soft blossoms—mimosa, linden, and neroli—enfolded in gentle sweetness. The base rests on musks, balsams, and vanillic warmth, echoing the serene calm of a shaded promenade at dusk.

In the context of its time, Unter den Linden stood at the crossroads of tradition and innovation. While floral perfumes were a familiar choice, Guerlain’s interpretation—with its subtle oriental richness and geographical romanticism—distinguished it from simpler soliflores or rose-violet blends popular in the 1860s. It was both evocative and elegant, reflecting the era’s fascination with travel, culture, and the poetry of nature translated into scent—a timeless ode to the refined tranquility found “under the linden trees.”

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Unter der Linden is classified as a floral oriental (amber floral) fragrance with green and powdery nuances.

• Top notes: bergamot, lemon, neroli, petitgrain, cassie, anise aldehyde, blue chamomile, mimosa, linden blossom, linaloe
• Middle notes: jonquil, heliotropin, hyacinthine, jasmine, African geranium, geranyl formate, clove
• Base notes: terpineol, musk, musk ketone, Bourbon vanilla, vanillin, benzoin, civet, ambrette, ambergris, coumarin, Peru balsam

Scent Profile:

Unter den Linden opens like a golden morning unfurling over Berlin’s grand boulevard—the air shimmering with the scent of linden blossoms after a summer rain. The first breath reveals a luminous cascade of bergamot and lemon, their bright, sunlit freshness diffused with the tender green of neroli and petitgrain, both distilled from the bitter orange tree. The petitgrain, with its slightly woody, herbaceous undertone, adds depth to the sparkling citrus—its character shaped by the terroir of southern France, where the dry heat concentrates its aromatic molecules, chiefly linalool and limonene, lending both floral sweetness and sharp clarity. Cassie absolute, derived from acacia flowers native to Egypt, brings an intoxicating warmth—powdery, honeyed, and faintly balsamic—its scent thick with methyl salicylate and benzyl benzoate, which create a soft, sweetly spiced glow.

The inclusion of anise aldehyde introduces an unexpected twist—a cool, silvery sweetness reminiscent of star anise and fennel—its synthetic clarity enhancing the natural warmth of cassie and neroli. Blue chamomile, with its rare azure hue derived from the molecule chamazulene, lends a serene, herbal depth and a faint whisper of smoke, tempering the floral brightness with a calm medicinal coolness. 

Then there is mimosa, soft and velvety, its downy yellow blossoms breathing the scent of almond and honey, while linden blossom—the soul of this fragrance—unfolds with creamy sweetness touched by pollen and green hay. True linden from Central Europe is uniquely tender and powdery, containing farnesol and benzyl acetate, molecules that give it a golden, sunlit warmth unlike any other floral note. A touch of linaloe wood oil, a now-rare ingredient from Mexico, completes the top accord with a whisper of peppered rosewood and a creamy, aromatic smoothness that bridges the citrus and floral notes seamlessly.

As the perfume deepens, the heart blooms with an opulent, old-world elegance. Jonquil, lush and narcotic, blends with hyacinthine to create a green-floral intensity—fresh yet sensual, with undertones of damp earth and pollen. Jasmine from Grasse unfurls next, velvety and indolic, its natural compounds benzyl acetate and indole mingling with the delicate powder of heliotropin, a synthetic molecule discovered in the 19th century that smells of almond, cherry, and sun-warmed vanilla. The heliotropin enhances the natural sweetness of jonquil and mimosa, wrapping them in a soft, confectionary haze.

African geranium, rich in citronellol and geraniol, introduces a green rosiness and a faint metallic sparkle, while geranyl formate refines it into something smoother and fruitier. A touch of clove—warm and slightly medicinal with its eugenol content—grounds the florals, adding a spicy echo that recalls the warmth of antique wood polish and linen pressed with lavender water.

The drydown is exquisite—an elegant drift into powder, musk, and resin. The scent settles into the glow of Bourbon vanilla from Madagascar, famed for its balance of sweet vanillin and smoky coumarin notes. Natural vanilla’s richness is amplified by synthetic vanillin, which extends its longevity and brightens its creamy sweetness. Benzoin and Peru balsam bring the burnished warmth of polished woods, their resinous sweetness threaded with ambered smoke and faint whispers of cinnamon. 

Musk and musk ketone lend the perfume a soft, tactile sensuality—clean yet animalic—enhanced by the natural warmth of ambrette seed, whose musky, nutty undertones smooth the edges of civet and ambergris. The faint salt of ambergris glimmers in the background, giving lift and radiance to the dense base, while terpineol contributes a lingering freshness, keeping the composition from ever feeling heavy.

In its entirety, Unter den Linden is like walking beneath a canopy of linden trees at twilight—where sunlight filters through the leaves and the air hums with bees, flowers, and the faint resin of city carriages. It is a perfume of memory and atmosphere—floral and green, yet touched with honeyed amber and powder—balancing nature’s tender bloom with the cultivated grace of 19th-century perfumery. 

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown.