Shalimar - Blue Ottoman Flacon 2011

In 2011, Guerlain unveiled one of its most extraordinary collector’s pieces — the Shalimar Edition Grand Luxe, a creation that fused perfume, art, and French luxury at its highest expression. This exceptional edition was presented during “Les Journées Particulières”, an event organized by LVMH on October 15–16, 2011, during which the public was invited behind the doors of the Guerlain universe to discover the alchemy of its craftsmanship. There, amid Baccarat crystal gleaming under soft light, perfumer Thierry Wasser, makeup artistic director Olivier Échaudemaison, and fragrance creative director Sylvaine Delacourte introduced a masterpiece that paid homage to nearly a century of Shalimar’s legend.

The Edition Grand Luxe was presented in an opulent leather coffret, embossed in gold and lined with the kind of care reserved for fine jewelry. Nestled inside was an imposing Baccarat crystal flacon containing 490 ml of pure extrait de parfum — the richest concentration of Shalimar, and one of the largest ever produced for private collectors. The bottle, in a deep cobalt hue known as “Bleu Ottoman,” radiated a mysterious glow — the same shade of blue once favored in Ottoman ceramics and palace interiors, symbolic of nobility, spirituality, and infinite desire. Its quadrilobed stopper, a historic design associated with Guerlain’s most prestigious presentations, crowned the bottle like a crystal sculpture, balancing geometric precision with liquid sensuality. A gilded gold label, applied to one face of the bottle, caught the light like a piece of antique jewelry.

Standing 18 cm (approximately 7 inches) tall, the Baccarat bottle commanded attention with its sheer scale and craftsmanship. Each example was hand-numbered, and only 30 copies were produced worldwide — making this not merely a perfume, but an objet d’art, representing the rarest echelon of the Shalimar lineage. The retail price was €6,500, which at the 2011 exchange rate equaled roughly $8,900 USD, placing it among the most expensive perfume editions of its time.

While the juice inside remained true to Jacques Guerlain’s 1925 original — that immortal symphony of bergamot, iris, vanilla, opoponax, and tonka — the presentation elevated it to a near-mythic status. The intensity of the extrait, housed in the rich cobalt crystal, seemed to glow from within — the deep blue amplifying the golden hues of the perfume itself, a visual metaphor for passion tempered by serenity. The scent, when dabbed onto the skin, released its familiar cascade of citrus and smoky balsamic notes, but the experience felt heightened — as though the flacon’s visual majesty had imbued the fragrance with a deeper, more opulent aura.

The Shalimar Edition Grand Luxe was not simply a perfume; it was Guerlain’s declaration of devotion to its heritage, a tangible expression of craftsmanship that bridged centuries. Through the luminous interplay of Baccarat crystal, Ottoman blue, and liquid gold, Guerlain reaffirmed Shalimar’s place not only as the house’s crown jewel, but as one of the most iconic perfumes in the world — an enduring symbol of romance, artistry, and the eternal allure of luxury.

Guerlilas by Guerlain c1930

Guerlilas, launched in 1930 by Jean-Jacques Guerlain, takes its name from the lilac flower—lilas in French—blended seamlessly with the Guerlain signature, evoking both floral beauty and the house’s heritage. Pronounced "Gair-lee-lah", the name suggests elegance, delicacy, and the ephemeral charm of early spring blooms. It conjures images of softly shaded lilac gardens, their violet and lavender petals unfurling in gentle sunlight, and evokes emotions of nostalgia, romance, and quiet sophistication.

The perfume emerged during a transformative period in the early 1930s, as the elegance of the late Art Deco era met the economic challenges of the Great Depression. Women’s fashions were becoming more streamlined, with softer silhouettes replacing the extreme flapper styles of the 1920s, while accessories and perfumes retained a sense of luxury and refinement. Perfumery itself was exploring new blends, layering floral compositions with subtle spices, woods, and aldehydes, creating fragrances that balanced classic beauty with modern sensibilities. In this context, Guerlilas’ lilac-centered composition offered a fresh and distinctive choice, simultaneously delicate, powdery, and unmistakably Guerlain in character.

For women of the period, a fragrance named Guerlilas would have represented both the familiarity of a beloved floral and the sophistication of the house’s signature style. Lilac, with its soft, slightly powdery aroma, was associated with youth, innocence, and refined femininity—qualities that resonated strongly in a time of social and cultural transition. Interpreted in scent, Guerlilas would have felt airy, gentle, and luminous at the top, with the lilac accord blooming over the familiar warmth of the Guerlinade—the blend of tonka, vanilla, and soft musks that underpins many Guerlain classics.

Among other fragrances on the market, Guerlilas was distinctive in its focus on lilac, a note less commonly isolated in perfumery at the time. While floral perfumes were widespread, the combination of lilac’s delicate greenness with Guerlain’s rich, powdery base accord created a nuanced, elegant fragrance that stood apart from both heavier roses and more linear florals. Guerlilas was thus a testament to Guerlain’s artistry: a fragrance that celebrated a singular flower while enveloping it in the luxurious, unmistakable signature of the house.

 

Fragrance Composition:

What does it smell like? Guerlilas by Guerlain is classified as a floral fragrance for women featuring beautiful lilac notes over the Guerlinade accord.

• Top notes: lilac, aldehydes, bergamot, orange blossom
• Middle notes: almond, lilac, rose, jasmine, heliotrope, lily of the valley, violet and Tonkin musk
• Base notes: ambergris, orris, vanilla, vetiver, civet, jasmine and musk

Recently, I was fortunate enough to obtain a sample of Guerlilas from my good friend, Alexandra Star, who curates an impressive collection of rare antique Guerlain treasures in her Etsy shop, Parfums de Paris. For those who would like to experience the well-blended floral sweetness of this long-discontinued gem, Alexandra’s shop is a wonderful place to explore—each piece offered there is a testament to her eye for beauty and passion for perfume history.

Scent Profile:

Guerlilas opens with the soft, ephemeral beauty of lilac, the star of the composition. The lilac note immediately suggests a sun-dappled spring garden, petals unfurling in delicate clusters, their aroma both powdery and slightly green. Lilac is notoriously difficult to extract naturally, so its presence often relies on a combination of natural absolutes and subtle synthetic enhancers that capture the flower’s fresh, lightly honeyed facets. The lilac is lifted by sparkling bergamot and aldehydes, which add a bright, luminous quality—bergamot providing a sunny, zesty citrus top note while aldehydes impart a crisp, slightly metallic shimmer that enhances the florals and gives the fragrance a modern, airy opening. Orange blossom softens this brightness, contributing a creamy, floral sweetness, balancing the citrus and highlighting lilac’s delicate charm.

At the heart, Guerlilas deepens into a layered floral bouquet. The lilac note returns, now fuller and intertwined with rose and jasmine, each bringing distinct qualities: the rose lends soft, velvety romance, while jasmine adds a creamy, indolic warmth. Violet contributes powdery nuance, while heliotrope adds a lightly almonded sweetness that tempers the florals and gives a comforting, almost gourmand lift. Lily of the valley brings a dewy, green freshness, mimicking springtime mornings, and almond introduces a nutty, slightly marzipan-like richness that enhances the heliotrope. The midsection is rounded by Tonkin musk, a soft, animalic musk that subtly supports the florals without overwhelming their airy quality. Together, these notes form a heart that is both nuanced and enveloping, floral yet powdery, sweet yet restrained.

The base of Guerlilas is rich and long-lasting, built on Guerlain’s signature Guerlinade accord. Ambergris lends an elusive marine-animalic warmth that is at once sensual and sophisticated, while civet adds a deeper, slightly animalic layer to anchor the fragrance. Vanilla and orris root contribute powdery, balsamic sweetness, enhancing the mid-floral softness and lending longevity. Vetiver introduces a smoky, earthy counterpoint, grounding the composition and giving it depth and structure. The base is further enriched by musk, which enhances the warmth and diffusive qualities, and a touch of jasmine that ties the heart and base seamlessly together, ensuring the lilac remains luminous even as the perfume settles.

What makes Guerlilas exceptional is the interplay of natural and synthetic elements. The synthetics—aldehydes, heliotrope enhancers, and musk—allow the delicate lilac and violet to shine in a way natural extracts alone might not achieve, giving the fragrance clarity, lift, and projection. The natural ingredients—jasmine, rose, orris, vetiver—provide authenticity, complexity, and richness, forming a lush foundation for the ethereal florals. Smelling Guerlilas is like walking through a spring garden where lilac dominates, yet each flower and soft woody note is perfectly in balance—a powdery, sophisticated, and distinctly Guerlain experience.

Scribner's Magazine, 1930:

"Guerlilas (lilac) and Guerlarose (rose), make most timely gifts. For what more in keeping with the present style than the discreet elegance of perfumes distilled from the flower itself? The purity of the scent remains absolutely unchanged."

Advertising & Selling, 1931:

"Guerlain has adapted a graceful silver fountain motif to both the flat bottle and the carton of L'Heure Bleue. In the category of cylinders, Guerlilas is encased in a magnificent pillar of black and silver in alternate horizontal bands which might be the work of Brancusi himself." 

 

Combat, 1955:

"Lilac - its green scent reeks of love and the suburbs. Guerlain has fixed its springtime message in 'Guerlilas' but, more often, it is asked to mask its ingenuity with perfidious extracts."

 

Bottles:

Presented in four different size ‘Guerlilas’ bottles (parfum) as well as the quadrilobe flacon (parfum) and was also offered in the Goutte flacon (eau de toilette).

Fate of the Fragrance:

Guerlilas was launched by Guerlain in 1930, joining the house’s celebrated line of floral fragrances. While the exact date of its discontinuation remains uncertain, records indicate that it was still being sold as late as 1961, suggesting a sustained appeal among fragrance enthusiasts. Interestingly, a 1934 advertisement in the Pittsburgh Press reported that both Guerlilas and Guerlarose had been discontinued, which may indicate regional or market-specific availability rather than a complete withdrawal from production.

This ambiguity reflects the way Guerlain managed its portfolio of scents in the early 20th century. Fragrances could be phased out gradually, limited to certain markets, or continue quietly in select boutiques even after formal “discontinuation.” Guerlilas’ longevity, however, attests to the enduring elegance of its lilac-centered floral composition and the timeless appeal of the Guerlinade accord, making it a noteworthy example of Guerlain’s craftsmanship during the transitional years of the 1930s.

Ma Petite Robe Noire c2012

For Christmas 2012, Guerlain introduced a charming and playful concept built around its newly reimagined fragrance La Petite Robe Noire—the third version created that same year by Thierry Wasser. This release was a celebration of the modern Parisienne, offering not just a scent but a touch of individuality and couture flair. The fragrance itself was an oriental vanilla composition, brimming with floral, fruity, and gourmand notes, a hallmark of Wasser’s signature style that married elegance with whimsy.

La Petite Robe Noire Eau de Parfum (2012) opened with a deliciously vivid burst of bergamot, red berries, sour cherry, and almond, creating an immediate sense of sparkle and sweetness tempered by tart freshness. The heart unfolded into a romantic and slightly mysterious bouquet of Bulgarian and Taif roses, deepened by smoked black tea and the faintly bittersweet note of licorice—a nod to Guerlain’s love of contrast between light and dark. The base lingered with anise, tonka bean, vanilla, patchouli, and iris, forming a velvety, sensual trail that blended the comfort of warm gourmand tones with the sophistication of powdery florals and soft woods. Altogether, it created a scent that was both feminine and mischievous, classic yet modern—an olfactory interpretation of the little black dress itself.

For the holiday season, Guerlain presented this perfume in a delightful limited edition collection titled “Ma Petite Robe Noire”—a trio of bottles, each adorned with a different illustrated little black dress. These variations invited wearers to choose the version that best suited their personality or that of a gift recipient, making the selection process as intimate and stylish as choosing the perfect dress. To elevate the personalization even further, Guerlain offered calligraphy customization on the bottle, allowing customers to have their name, initials, or a secret message elegantly inscribed.

Encased in the iconic heart-shaped stopper flacon, these editions captured the brand’s spirit of luxury, playfulness, and Parisian chic. Whether worn as a signature scent or displayed as a collectible, the 2012 Christmas release of La Petite Robe Noire represented a perfect harmony between artistry, scent, and style—a fragrant celebration of the timeless allure of the little black dress.

Agates Face Powder c1973

Before Guerlain unveiled its now-iconic Météorites face powder pearls in 1987, the house had already experimented with a remarkably artistic concept in 1973—a face powder called Agates. This earlier creation served as both a cosmetic innovation and a celebration of refined craftsmanship. The name Agates referred not merely to its delicate, luminous finish, but to the exquisite container that held it—an opulent box inspired by Marie Antoinette’s own agate-covered casket, a symbol of 18th-century luxury and taste. Guerlain’s Agates embodied the brand’s deep appreciation for artistry and historical elegance, merging beauty and fine art in a way that anticipated the later Météorites line.

The inspiration for the Agates powder box likely drew from the celebrated gold and pietra dura “Steinkabinett” created by Christian Gottlieb Stiehl of Dresden, circa 1770—a masterpiece of mineral artistry and scientific curiosity. Stiehl’s work was not a mere decorative object but a meticulously crafted cabinet of stones, showcasing his mastery of ‘Zellenmosaik’, or cellular mosaic technique. The oval box featured a lid intricately inlaid with brightly colored hardstones, forming a rustic basket overflowing with lifelike flowers. Around it, garlanded borders of chalcedony forget-me-nots framed swirling petals composed of numbered specimen stones, each carefully cataloged and listed in a printed booklet hidden within a secret compartment in the base. The effect was dazzling: the interplay of translucent stones and pierced goldwork created the illusion of a miniature stained-glass window, shimmering with light and color.

It is easy to imagine Guerlain’s Agates box echoing this spirit of craftsmanship and wonder—its design likely refined, jewel-like, and sumptuous, evoking the elegance of Marie Antoinette’s boudoir and the scholarly beauty of Stiehl’s mineral compositions. The name Agates thus captured both the precious materiality of fine hardstones and the poetic refinement of Guerlain’s aesthetic—a bridge between science, art, and the artifice of beauty itself. Though the original Agates powder of 1973 is now rarely seen, it stands as a precursor to Météorites, embodying the same idea of transforming complexion and light into a delicate, prismatic radiance—just as the stones of the Steinkabinett transformed sunlight into a jeweled glow.

The box style was later used for the Meteorites packaging in 1987.

backlighting showing the stained glass effect of the lid.