Sunday, April 11, 2021

Fleurs de Lavande c1900

Fleurs de Lavande, launched by Guerlain around 1900, takes its name from the French words meaning “Flowers of Lavender”, pronounced as "flur de la-VAHND". The name immediately evokes images of sun-drenched Provençal fields, where the gentle breeze carries the heady, herbaceous scent of blooming lavender, intermingled with subtle floral overtones. It suggests refinement, tranquility, and natural elegance, appealing to those who associate fragrance with both sophistication and pastoral beauty.

The turn of the 20th century was a period of artistic and social transition, with the Belle Époque in France ushering in opulence, elegance, and a fascination with nature and craftsmanship. Fashion favored high collars, flowing gowns, and a focus on refined femininity, while perfumery was increasingly embracing complex, layered compositions that reflected both luxury and subtlety. In this context, a fragrance named Fleurs de Lavande would have resonated with women seeking a scent that was at once familiar and sophisticated, a delicate balance of freshness, herbal clarity, and elegance that aligned with contemporary tastes.


Olfactorily, Fleurs de Lavande is classified as a classic fougère or chypre, with a dominant lavender note that forms the backbone of the fragrance. Lavender, likely sourced from the famed fields of Provence in France, is prized for its aromatic purity and refined herbaceous sweetness, distinguishing it from other lavenders that may be more camphorous or coarse. In the perfume, the lavender is complemented by subtle floral and green notes, and perhaps enriched with oakmoss or mossy chypre accords, creating a sophisticated composition that is both aromatic and slightly powdery. At the time, this blend would have been very much in line with contemporary trends in perfumery, where refined fougère and chypre constructions were highly fashionable, yet Guerlain’s treatment of lavender—with attention to clarity, elegance, and balance—ensured the fragrance stood out for its quality and artistry.

Fleurs de Lavande therefore represents both the era’s aesthetic and Guerlain’s mastery: a perfume that celebrates the natural beauty of lavender while offering a complex, refined structure that speaks to the sophistication of early 20th-century women, embodying serenity, elegance, and timeless charm.




Fragrance Composition:



So what does it smell like? Fleurs de Lavande is classified as a classic fougère or chypre fragrance with a strong lavender note.
  • Top notes: lemon, bergamot 
  • Middle notes: French lavender, galbanum 
  • Base notes: labdanum, ambergris, sandalwood, oakmoss and vetiver

Scent Profile:


Fleurs de Lavande opens with the unmistakable aromatic clarity of lavender, likely sourced from Provence, France, renowned for producing lavender of exceptional purity and subtle sweetness. The scent is immediately bright, herbaceous, and slightly camphorous, evoking sun-drenched fields and warm breezes carrying the gentle fragrance of blooming lavender. This top note is both invigorating and calming, setting the stage for the perfume’s classic fougère structure. The lavender is precise and clean, distinguished from other varieties—such as English or Bulgarian lavender—by its soft floral nuance, delicacy, and balanced green-herbaceous character, which lends a refined elegance rather than a harsh or medicinal aroma.

As the heart develops, the classic chypre accords unfold, blending subtle floral and green nuances with oakmoss, bergamot, and possibly geranium or rose accents. The oakmoss adds a dry, earthy depth, grounding the bright lavender with a slightly forest-like, green undertone that enhances the natural freshness of the top notes. Bergamot, often from Calabria, introduces a sparkling, citrusy brightness that lifts the composition, highlighting the vibrancy of the lavender and adding a sunny, effervescent quality. If geranium or rose is present, their subtly rosy, slightly green facets harmonize with the lavender, rounding the perfume and enhancing its complexity.

The base, typical of a classic fougère or chypre, likely includes vetiver, tonka bean, or soft musk, lending a warm, lingering finish. Vetiver provides a smoky, woody undertone that deepens the herbal brightness, while tonka bean and musk add a creamy, skin-like softness, balancing the sharper, aromatic elements with comforting warmth. Where synthetics may be employed—such as enhanced lavender absolutes or musks—they serve to stabilize the natural ingredients, extend longevity, and subtly amplify facets like brightness, sweetness, or skin-like warmth without overpowering the natural elegance.

Fleurs de Lavande is a masterclass in balance: the lavender shines as the star, crisp and herbaceous, supported by a green-floral heart and an earthy, musky base. It evokes the image of a serene Provençal landscape, where sunlit lavender fields meet mossy forest paths, capturing both the freshness and depth of nature. The fragrance exemplifies Guerlain’s 19th- and early-20th-century approach to fougère-chypre perfumes: sophisticated, harmonious, and timeless, offering a layered experience that is at once invigorating, elegant, and subtly nostalgic.



Bottles:



Fleurs de Lavande was housed in the carre flacon.








Fate of the Fragrance:


Discontinued, date unknown, it was still being sold in 1914. The parfum Fleurs de Lavande may have been invariably used as Lavande, which was found in both parfum and eau de toilette form in later years.


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