Cyprisine 1894

Cyprisine, launched by Guerlain in 1894 and created by Aimé Guerlain, carries a name that evokes a sense of elegance and timeless beauty. The word "Cyprisine" is derived from the name Cyprus, rooted in French ("Chypre"), which is historically linked to the island where Aphrodite, the goddess of love and beauty, was said to have emerged. The name "Cyprisine" draws on this mythological heritage, symbolizing an air of romance, allure, and femininity. It would have immediately conjured images of classical beauty, the Mediterranean, and the divine presence of Aphrodite herself. Women of the Belle Époque would have likely interpreted Cyprisine as a fragrance of sophistication, embodying grace, sensuality, and mystery.

In scent, Cyprisine would be experienced as both earthy and ethereal. As a chypre fragrance, it followed a traditional formula of blending citrus top notes with a heart of florals and a mossy, resinous base. Chypre perfumes are characterized by their unique contrast between fresh and warm, bright and dark, making them both timeless and compelling. Women of the late 19th century, emerging in an age of luxury and artistry, would have appreciated the rich complexity of this fragrance. The name Cyprisine would evoke visions of lush Mediterranean landscapes, warm breezes, and the soft fragrance of forested hillsides, giving a sense of escape and elegance.

The Belle Époque, the period in which Cyprisine was introduced, was an era of opulence, where art, fashion, and luxury goods flourished. Perfume was an essential accessory for women during this time, and Guerlain was at the forefront of creating sophisticated, high-quality scents. While many fragrances of the time focused on florals, such as violet and rose, chypre perfumes stood out for their depth and multifaceted composition. Cyprisine, with its chypre structure, would have been unique and daring compared to the more straightforward floral compositions popular in the 1890s, appealing to women who desired something bold, distinctive, and grounded in nature.

A chypre fragrance is built on a traditional accord of three key components: citrus, typically bergamot, at the top; a heart of floral or fruity notes; and a base of earthy, resinous notes like oakmoss, labdanum, and patchouli. This creates a beautifully balanced contrast between light and dark, where fresh citrus evolves into a warm, woody dry down. Chypres were among the most sophisticated of fragrance families, offering a long-lasting and elegant profile that felt luxurious and rich.

The history of chypre perfumes is tied closely to Mediterranean influences, with the first modern example emerging in the 17th century, though the structure dates back even further. By the late 19th century, chypre perfumes became highly regarded in high society. Guerlain, known for their innovation in perfumery, first introduced a chypre fragrance in 1850 with Eau de Chypre. The release of Cyprisine in 1894 reflected their continuing mastery of the chypre family, followed later by Chypre de Paris in 1909 and the legendary Mitsouko in 1919, which became one of the most iconic chypre fragrances of all time.

The ingredients of Cyprisine would have been sourced from natural extractions typical of the period. Oakmoss, one of the defining components of chypre fragrances, would have been harvested from forests, while the labdanum resin likely came from rockrose bushes in the Mediterranean region. Early chypre perfumes relied heavily on such natural materials—infusions, tinctures, and absolutes—but as the 19th century came to a close, synthetics such as coumarin and vanillin began to be used to create more consistent and innovative blends. These synthetic compounds allowed perfumers to elevate traditional notes with modern techniques, offering longer-lasting and more vibrant compositions.

The late 19th century saw the rise of synthetic aroma compounds, and Guerlain was one of the pioneering houses to embrace these innovations. Perfume formulas from this era frequently appeared in perfumery manuals, blending natural and synthetic ingredients to recreate the fresh, dewy aromas of flowers and forests. Guerlain’s Cyprisine, standing among these developments, was part of a larger trend where perfumers used creative names to distinguish their own take on the chypre accord. Cyprisine was not only a nod to tradition but also a reflection of perfumery’s future.

In the context of other fragrances on the market in 1894, Cyprisine stood apart as a distinctive and elevated composition. While many fragrances were still focused on single floral notes or simple accords, Cyprisine showcased the complexity of the chypre structure, offering women an intriguing and sophisticated alternative. It represented both the height of luxury and a sense of adventure, speaking to the modern, cosmopolitan woman of the Belle Époque.

Evening Star, 1913:

"Mere names of perfumes give no idea," said Zinda Brozia. "You must smell them. As many makers, so there are as many "'chypres'. There is no such perfume, though Walter Scott mentions it, and Houbigant had a 'cypris" in 1775. Guerlain has a 'cyprisine' and a 'chypre de Paris'. The original 'Chypre' was a very successful mixture of Atkinson, years ago; and as he did not protect the name, everybody took it up. Now Guerlain's 'Chypre de Paris', although of the cheap $1.20 series, is a sum total of perfume value, distinction and lasting qualities. I imagine it would be impossible to repeat, hein?"

 

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Cyprisine by Guerlain is classified as a spicy floral fragrance for women.

• Top notes: carnation, rose, aromatic notes, citrus notes
• Middle notes: rose, freesia, ylang ylang, orange blossom, sandalwood, clove, cinnamon
• Base notes: musk, tonka bean, vanilla, orris

Scent Profile:

As I take in the opening of Cyprisine, the first impression is a vibrant rush of spicy floral notes. The carnation immediately stands out, with its peppery, almost clove-like intensity, filling the air with a warm, floral spiciness that feels both vintage and timeless. 

It is softened by the unmistakable presence of rose, offering a velvety sweetness that rounds out the sharper edges of the carnation. Interwoven with these florals is the subtle zest of citrus, brightening the bouquet with an invigorating freshness, while the aromatic undertones hint at herbal or green notes that add a layer of earthiness, grounding the fragrance.

As the scent settles, the heart of Cyprisine reveals itself in a lush, floral cascade. The rose deepens, becoming richer and more opulent, while freesia adds a delicate freshness with its crisp, almost watery facets. The exotic ylang-ylang blooms in the background, its creamy, slightly fruity floral notes lending a sense of luxury and depth to the composition. Orange blossom follows, offering a sweet, honeyed brightness that mingles effortlessly with the ylang-ylang, creating an air of romantic indulgence.

Beneath the florals lies the warmth of sandalwood, smooth and milky, wrapping the floral heart in a soft, woody embrace. The clove and cinnamon reintroduce spice to the fragrance, adding a fiery warmth that intertwines with the florals, creating a dynamic balance of sweetness and heat. These spices enhance the carnation's natural spiciness while giving the perfume a cozy, inviting feel, as if the scent is gently unfolding with time.

As Cyprisine dries down, its base notes come forward, adding layers of depth and sensuality. The musk is soft, clean, and subtly animalic, offering a touch of warmth and intimacy that lingers on the skin. The tonka bean brings a creamy, almond-like sweetness, melding perfectly with the vanilla, which adds a rich, comforting sweetness without overpowering the other elements. 

Orris, with its powdery, violet-like scent, adds an air of elegance to the base, creating a soft, almost tactile quality that enhances the florals and spice. Together, the base notes of Cyprisine form a velvety, soft, and lingering finish that is as complex as it is refined, leaving a lasting impression of warmth, sensuality, and timeless beauty.

Parfums Préparés par Condensation:

Cyprisine occupied a notable and celebrated place within Guerlain’s “Parfums Préparés par Condensation” series, a curated collection renowned for its originality, refinement, and the distinct character of each fragrance. The phrase “Parfums Préparés par Condensation” translates literally to “Perfumes Prepared by Condensation”, describing a sophisticated method—most commonly steam distillation—used to extract aromatic compounds from raw materials. In this process, the plant or flower material is exposed to steam, causing its volatile compounds to evaporate. The vapor is then cooled and condensed back into liquid form, producing a concentrated essential oil or aromatic essence. This method, compared to simpler techniques such as enfleurage or maceration, captures a purer, more nuanced fragrance profile, highlighting subtle tones and enhancing both richness and longevity. For Guerlain, labeling a perfume as part of this series was a signal of technical mastery, olfactory sophistication, and artisanal quality.

Within this prestigious collection, each fragrance possessed a unique personality. Cyprisine was particularly accentué, meaning its notes were heightened for a striking and immediate impact. This distinguished it from others in the line, such as Le Jardin de Mon Curé, which was flowery, persistent, and original, or Belle France, known for its fresh and lasting aroma. Bouquet Mademoiselle exuded a suave, gracefully charming scent, while Dix Pétales de Roses offered a fresh, flowery, and smooth experience. Other members, including Gavotte and Grande Maréchale, emphasized originality and enduring presence, whereas Paris Nouveau and Rodomel were characterized by sweet, flowery tones that were charming yet lasting. Tsao-Ko was highly accentuated and immediately recognizable, Violette à Deux Sous presented a sweet, persistent, and suave impression, and Young Princess embodied a soft, sweet, and sophisticated character, rounding out the series.

In this context, accentué, suave, persistent, and original carried precise, intentional meanings. An accentué fragrance, like Cyprisine, emphasizes select notes, making them immediately prominent and memorable. A suave perfume is smooth and polished, harmoniously balanced to convey elegance without overwhelming the wearer. A persistent scent carries heavier, long-lasting notes, leaving a subtle but enduring trail over hours. An original perfume introduces novelty, offering an inventive and unexpected composition that showcases Guerlain’s creative audacity. Cyprisine, through its accentuated personality, exemplified this philosophy—its carefully heightened notes created an unforgettable olfactory impression, a bold and deliberate signature within the series.

Bottles:

Presented in the Flacon Plat (Flat) starting in 1894. The bottle was created by Pochet et du Courval. Housed various Guerlain fragrances such as Tsao Ko, Belle France, Dix Petales de Roses, Cyprisine, Le Jardin de Mon Cure, Gavotte, Paris Nouveau, Violette a Deux Sous, Bouquet Mademoiselle, Grande Marechale, Young Princess, and Rodomel.

 

 

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown. Still being sold in 1923.

Cytise Sylvaria 1848

Cytise Sylvaria by Guerlain, launched in 1848 as part of the Jardin d’Hiver Collection, was a poetic homage to the natural world, distilled into a fragrance of luminous delicacy and aristocratic refinement. The name itself, Cytise Sylvaria, draws from the botanical Latin Cytisus sylvaria—the forest laburnum or “Golden Chain tree,” celebrated for its cascades of radiant yellow blossoms. The word Cytise (pronounced see-teez) refers to the laburnum, while Sylvaria (pronounced seel-vahr-ee-ah) derives from the Latin silva, meaning “forest” or “woodland.” Together, they conjure an image of a sun-dappled grove, where golden flowers shimmer against deep green leaves—a fusion of warmth and tranquility.

In scent, the laburnum carries a soft, honeyed floral aroma, with subtle almond and hay-like facets. Guerlain, ever attuned to nature’s subtleties, might have interpreted this as a gilded floral blend, combining the sweetness of acacia or mimosa with a faint woody-green undertone. The imagined perfume would have opened with bright notes of bergamot and neroli, leading into a heart of yellow florals—perhaps broom, mimosa, or heliotrope—laced with a powdery, pollen-like nuance. The base may have settled into a smooth resinous warmth, with faint touches of vanilla and benzoin to give depth and glow, echoing the natural sweetness of the laburnum’s blooms.

The year 1848 was one of transformation and political upheaval in France—the dawn of the Second Republic, an age of revolution and renewal. Yet, amid this turbulence, Guerlain’s Jardin d’Hiver Collection offered an oasis of cultivated calm, reflecting a return to nature and classical ideals. The choice of a name steeped in Latin and botanical elegance mirrored the intellectual and aesthetic tastes of the mid-19th century, when natural sciences, art, and luxury were intertwined. Women of refined society, drawn to such a perfume, would have associated Cytise Sylvaria with poise, sensitivity, and quiet opulence—a fragrance not of ostentation, but of cultured grace.

In the context of perfumery at the time, Cytise Sylvaria would have been distinctly modern, blending romantic naturalism with scientific precision. Where earlier perfumes leaned heavily on musk, amber, or animalic notes, Guerlain’s composition would have felt like a breath of pure air from a botanical conservatory, an early exploration of floral harmony that anticipated the luminous, nature-inspired style Guerlain would perfect in later decades. In essence, Cytise Sylvaria would have smelled like sunlight filtering through golden blossoms—a celebration of life’s gentler radiance, bottled for an era yearning for beauty and renewal.

Jardin d’Hiver Collection:

Guerlain’s Jardin d’Hiver Collection, launched in 1848, represents a remarkable celebration of botanical singularity and refined artistry. Each fragrance within the collection is devoted to a single floral or plant note, captured with painstaking care to highlight its unique character and essence. The collection’s Latin-styled names—Tilia microphylla, Lathyrus odorans, Mimosa fragrans, Cyperus ruber, and the most recent addition (1853), Mimosa Esterhazya—lend an air of classical sophistication, evoking the scholarly prestige and aristocratic refinement associated with the study of plants and natural sciences. These names, both precise and exotic, signal the high level of craft and attention devoted to each fragrance, appealing to a clientele who valued knowledge, taste, and exclusivity.

At the 1851 Universal Exposition, these perfumes competed not merely as products of luxury, but as demonstrations of technical mastery and artistic innovation. Each extrait is a distillation of a single botanical note, conveying the essence of the plant in a way that is at once vivid, nuanced, and enduring. Tilia microphylla, for instance, would have unfolded with the delicate, honeyed softness of its linden blossoms, while Mimosa fragrans exudes a sunlit, powdery warmth, evocative of early spring mornings. Cyperus ruber, with its earthy, subtly green facets, contrasts with the intensely floral sweetness of Lathyrus odorans, creating a spectrum of olfactory experiences within a unified concept.

The collection was designed for the highest echelons of society, intended for women who were not merely consumers of fragrance but arbiters of taste and refinement. These perfumes were not relegated to the dressing table as casual adornments; they were worn as statements of identity and prestige, perfuming the air with subtlety and elegance. In essence, the Jardin d’Hiver Collection embodies the aristocratic ethos of mid-19th century Paris—a union of botanical scholarship, artistic sophistication, and the cultivated elegance expected of the queens of fashion and fortune. Each fragrance is an intimate portrait of a singular flower, captured with the utmost care, and presented as a jewel of olfactory refinement.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? If one were to imagine what Cytise Sylvaria by Guerlain might have smelled like in 1848, it would likely have been a luminous yellow floral composition — radiant yet understated, evoking the warmth of sunlight streaming through a conservatory filled with golden blossoms.

At its heart would be the scent of laburnum (Cytisus sylvaria) — a flower that, while not widely used in modern perfumery, is described as having a soft, honeyed sweetness with hints of almond, pollen, and hay. It would not be a heady floral, but rather a delicate, warm, and gently powdery aroma, evocative of early summer. Guerlain, known even then for crafting balanced, harmonious scents, might have blended the laburnum accord with heliotrope or mimosa to enhance its creamy, almonded facets, and perhaps acacia or broom to bring out the floral brightness and golden tones.

The opening could have included bergamot or petitgrain, introducing a fresh, citrusy lift to mimic the cool air of a winter garden. Green floral notes — possibly violet leaf or galbanum — might have underscored the natural greenness of the laburnum’s stems and leaves, providing contrast and vitality.

As it settled, the heart of the perfume would have become softly powdery and luminous, capturing the feel of golden petals warmed by the sun. A light honey accord, with natural beeswax or benzoin, could have added a subtle sweetness, tying into the “botanical study” character of the Jardin d’Hiver line.

The base would likely have been resinous and slightly woody, featuring benzoin, tolu balsam, and perhaps a touch of sandalwood or vanilla — classic Guerlain signatures even in the 19th century. These notes would lend depth and warmth, evoking polished wood and sunlight on amber varnish.

In total, Cytise Sylvaria might have smelled like a golden-green floral veil — a blend of soft honey, almond, fresh greenery, and warm woods. The overall impression would be gentle, aristocratic, and quietly radiant — the scent of a lady in pale silk walking beneath the glass canopy of a winter garden, surrounded by tender blooms that whisper of the coming spring.

Bottle:

Presented in the carre flacon.

Petit courrier des dames: Journal des modes, 1848:

"By creating the Château des Fleurs, inventing the Jardin d’Hiver, and making flowers fashionable in all the salons of Paris, the trend of perfumery simultaneously returned—after having been somewhat neglected due to the overuse of amber, musk, and vetiver. Yet the perfumes that reappear today bear no resemblance to those bourgeois emanations of old-fashioned coquetry. At Guerlain, 11 Rue de la Paix, however, belongs the right to this thoroughly modern renewal, offering compositions more delicate, more suave, more gentle on the nerves, and more voluptuous to the sense of smell than any other.

Ladies of good society are recognized by these perfumes, just as the high lineage of noble families is recognized by their coats of arms; and when a lock of hair flutters near you, when a magnificent handkerchief falls beside you, or when a fresh, coquettish glove happens to brush near your lips, you can judge by the fragrance emanating from that hair, that handkerchief, or those gloves whether the woman to whom they belong has received at Guerlain the mark of good taste, fashion, and refinement.

New odors composed by Guerlain:

• Extrait de Lolium agriphyllum 
• Extrait de Phlomis asplenia, 
• Extrait d'Azalea melaleuca
• Extrait de Cyparisse Elaidon
• Extrait d'Hyemalis anthelia
• Extrait de Cytise sylvaria 
• Extrait d'Anthemia nobilis 
• Extrait de Cyperus ruber  
• Extrait de Tilia micropluilla
• Extrait d'Hymenaea nitida 
• Extrait de Mimosa fragrans
• Extrait de Caryophilus album 
• Extrait d'Amyris Polyolens 
• Extrait de Polyanthe suaveolens  
• Extrait de Lathyrus odorans  
• Extrait d'Ocymum dulce 

By bringing to light these entirely new perfumes, Guerlain points out that they can only be found at home, and recommends to be on guard against the imitations that one will try to make."