Neroli Outrenoir c2016

Neroli Outrenoir was launched in 2016 as part of Guerlain’s L’Art & la Matière line, a collection devoted to rare, sophisticated fragrances crafted for enthusiasts of noble materials and refined composition. The name, pronounced as "neh-ROH-lee oot-reh-NWAR", combines “Neroli,” the luminous, sparkling essence derived from bitter orange blossoms, with “Outrenoir,” meaning “beyond black” in French. The pairing evokes a striking contrast: the bright, sunlit freshness of neroli against the dark, mysterious depths of shadowy woods and smoky resins. The words together conjure images of glowing citrus groves at twilight, where light and darkness intertwine, and evoke emotions of intrigue, elegance, and refined sensuality.

The mid-2010s, when the perfume was launched, were marked by a growing appreciation for unique, niche fragrances that blended natural materials with subtle modernity. Consumers sought perfumes that were both personal statements and experiences—luxurious, complex, and contemplative. A fragrance named Neroli Outrenoir would have appealed to women and men interested in a sophisticated duality: the brightness of citrus and flowers tempered by enigmatic, smoky undertones. The name itself signals a sensory journey, promising both clarity and mystery, inviting the wearer to explore contrasts and nuances within a single scent.

Olfactorily, Neroli Outrenoir is classified as a citrus floral woody fragrance. At the top, neroli radiates with sparkling, luminous brilliance, delivering the fresh, slightly green and zesty sweetness characteristic of bitter orange blossoms. This is complemented by bergamot, enhancing the citrus lift with a refined, sun-kissed sharpness, while petitgrain absolute adds a woody, aromatic depth drawn from the leaves and twigs of the bitter orange tree. In the heart, the soft floral facets of orange blossom bloom, bridging the bright opening with the shadowy base.

The base unfolds with profound, mysterious notes. Smoky tea introduces a slightly bitter, dry facet, adding subtle tension to the fragrance, while myrrh contributes warm, resinous richness that deepens the composition. Dark woods provide grounding, earthy undertones, giving the perfume structure and a lingering presence. The interplay of light and shadow—the sparkling neroli against smoky and resinous elements—creates an olfactory chiaroscuro, reflecting the conceptual contrast implied by its name.

In the context of 2016, Neroli Outrenoir was distinctive yet aligned with contemporary perfumery trends. Niche and luxury fragrances increasingly explored contrasts—bright versus dark, natural versus abstract—allowing perfumers like Thierry Wasser to create multi-dimensional experiences. Unlike more conventional citrus-floral perfumes, Neroli Outrenoir embraces duality, presenting a luminous, floral opening that gradually reveals shadowy, enigmatic depth, making it both modern and timeless, approachable yet intriguingly complex.

 

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Neroli Outrenoir is classified as a citrus floral woody fragrance for men and women.

• Top notes: petitgrain, bergamot
• Middle notes: neroli, smoky black tea, orange blossom
• Base notes: myrrh, ambrette seeds, moss

Scent Profile:

Upon the first encounter, Neroli Outrenoir opens with the crisp, luminous brightness of petitgrain and bergamot. The petitgrain, distilled from the leaves and twigs of the bitter orange tree, offers a refined, slightly green-woody freshness with subtle floral nuances, more delicate and aromatic than the fruitier essence of the orange blossom itself. Bergamot, sourced from Calabria in southern Italy—the region renowned for producing the most balanced and nuanced bergamot in the world—adds a sparkling, zesty lift, its citrus radiance enriched by a natural bitterness that keeps the opening from being overtly sweet. Together, these top notes evoke a sunlit Mediterranean grove, where green leaves glisten alongside ripening fruit, creating a crisp, invigorating freshness that is immediately uplifting.

As the fragrance unfolds, the heart reveals a complex interplay of luminous florals and subtle smoky depth. Neroli, derived from the delicate blossoms of the bitter orange tree, fills the senses with a radiant, sweet-floral aroma tinged with citrus brightness and a honeyed nuance. This is layered with orange blossom, adding a softer, creamier floral dimension, enhancing the perfume’s sensuality and bridging the brightness of the top notes with the emerging depth of the base. Smoky black tea adds an unexpected, intriguing facet: a slightly bitter, dry, and aromatic note that introduces shadow and complexity, providing a dark contrast to the luminous florals. Together, the heart conveys both elegance and mystery, as if sunlight filters through a grove at twilight, illuminating blossoms while leaving shadows in their wake.

The base of Neroli Outrenoir grounds the fragrance in rich, resinous warmth and subtle earthy sensuality. Myrrh offers a balsamic, resinous richness with a faintly medicinal, warm sweetness, evoking sacred rituals and depth. Ambrette seeds, derived from Hibiscus abelmoschus primarily grown in India, contribute a musky, slightly animalic softness, providing warmth and a subtle sensuality that lingers on the skin. Finally, moss imparts an earthy, slightly green and damp nuance, reminiscent of forest floors and shaded groves, balancing the brightness of the citrus and florals with natural, grounding tones. Together, these base notes create a lingering trail of refined depth, harmonizing the sparkling citrus, radiant florals, and smoky heart into a seamless, evocative composition.

Neroli Outrenoir is a masterful citrus floral woody fragrance, where contrasts are carefully orchestrated: the crisp freshness of petitgrain and bergamot meets the radiant, sunlit florals of neroli and orange blossom, while smoky black tea and resinous myrrh add an enigmatic depth, and ambrette and moss provide a soft, grounding warmth. Each note is distinct yet harmoniously blended, creating a fragrance that is simultaneously luminous, mysterious, and sophisticated—an olfactory exploration of light and shadow, refinement and intrigue, perfectly embodying Guerlain’s L’Art & la Matière vision.

Bottle:

The fragrance is housed in a bottle of strikingly clean, contemporary lines, a design that exudes understated elegance and modern sophistication. Along the edge, a golden metal plate adds a touch of precious refinement, reminiscent of a gilded page in a luxurious book, subtly elevating the visual experience and evoking the sense of a treasured keepsake. The bottle is paired with a chic, vintage-inspired atomizer, thoughtfully designed with an ON/OFF mechanism, allowing the perfume to be transported safely and applied with ease, blending practicality with refinement.

Adding to the luxurious presentation, the bottle is nestled within a casket finished in amethyst “leather touch”, a tactile and visually appealing case that emphasizes exclusivity and elegance. The casket itself is versatile, allowing the owner to adapt or change the inner jewelry compartment at will, creating a sense of personalization and interaction with the perfume’s presentation. Together, these details transform the bottle into more than just a container—it becomes a sophisticated objet d’art, marrying contemporary aesthetics with Guerlain’s tradition of exquisite craftsmanship and thoughtful design.

Fate of the Fragrance:

This particular version has since been discontinued, having been released shortly after the accompanying atomizer-equipped bottle was withdrawn from the market. The atomizer, though visually chic and vintage-inspired, faced practical challenges: issues with evaporation and inconsistent spraying rendered it less functional than intended. Despite its brief availability, the combination of the elegant bottle and the luxurious casket remains a testament to Guerlain’s commitment to aesthetic refinement and innovative design, highlighting the brand’s attention to both beauty and experiential presentation—even when practical limitations necessitated the discontinuation of certain elements.

Bouquet de Lord Seymour c1840

Bouquet de Lord Seymour by Guerlain, launched around 1840 and also known simply as Bouquet Seymour, was one of the earliest perfumes created by Pierre-François-Pascal Guerlain. The name itself was chosen in homage to Henry de Seymour (1805–1859), a wealthy English aristocrat and descendant of the Dukes of Somerset. A flamboyant figure in Parisian society, Seymour founded the prestigious Jockey Club of Paris, a gathering place for noblemen and horse enthusiasts. Guerlain’s decision to dedicate a fragrance to such a man was no coincidence—it reflected both the refined elegance and daring modernity that defined the brand from its earliest days.

The name Bouquet de Lord Seymour is French and translates literally to “Lord Seymour’s Bouquet.” The title evokes the image of a distinguished gentleman surrounded by polished splendor—the rustle of fine fabrics, the gleam of carriage lamps along the Boulevard des Italiens, and the faint echo of laughter from a salon filled with English and French nobility. The word bouquet in perfumery was often used to signify an elegant composition of blended floral and herbal essences, suggesting sophistication rather than a single flower’s simplicity.

The early 19th century, when this fragrance was created, was a period of renewal and cosmopolitan taste in Paris. The Bourbon Restoration had recently given way to the July Monarchy, and Paris was once again alive with a mingling of aristocratic refinement and bourgeois ambition. English culture exerted a strong influence over French fashion—London tailoring, equestrian sports, and Anglo-French salons were the height of chic. Within this atmosphere, Guerlain’s Bouquet de Lord Seymour would have embodied both gentlemanly elegance and continental grace, appealing equally to refined men and women of society.

Women of the time, enamored with the glamour of English nobility, would have viewed a perfume named after Lord Seymour as a mark of fashionable worldliness. It suggested aristocratic charm, a touch of reckless adventure, and refined sensuality—qualities that fit perfectly with the romantic spirit of the early Victorian age. To wear it was to adorn oneself with the invisible signature of English sophistication filtered through French artistry.

Interpreted in scent, Bouquet de Lord Seymour would likely have drawn inspiration from the popular “Jockey Club” compositions of the day, which blended aromatic herbs, citrus, and floral notes with leather and musky undertones. These fragrances were created to evoke the gentleman’s milieu—polished riding boots, freshly cut hay, and fine grooming oils—tempered with the soft sweetness of orange blossom or rose to make them approachable and refined. Guerlain, with his gift for harmony and balance, would have elevated this idea, giving the perfume both masculine depth and romantic softness, a bridge between the rugged English countryside and the polished salons of Paris.

In the wider context of perfumery, Bouquet de Lord Seymour aligned with the trends of its time but bore the distinct Guerlain touch that would become a hallmark of the house. While many perfumers produced floral or fougère compositions, few infused them with such narrative charm—a scent born of personality, place, and prestige. It was an early example of Guerlain’s genius for weaving storytelling and sophistication into fragrance, a tradition that would carry the house into global renown.

In 1828, the first Guerlain perfumery opened its doors within the elegant Hôtel Meurice in Paris—a place long favored by English travelers of means. At that time, the hotel’s façade featured small boutiques flanking its grand carriage entrance, giving it the charm of a private arcade. This was the era when English aristocrats journeyed to Paris in post carriages, bringing with them an air of refinement and curiosity for French luxury. Among these distinguished visitors was Lord Henry Seymour, whose arrival in his mail coach became a familiar sight. A figure of both notoriety and fascination, Seymour was affectionately—and somewhat scandalously—nicknamed “Milord l’Arsouille” by Parisians. The term arsouille, a colloquialism of the time, referred to a reckless, pleasure-seeking man—someone given to excess and mischief.

Despite his flamboyant reputation, Lord Seymour was known among those close to him as a generous and warm-hearted patron, a man whose extravagance was tempered by genuine kindness. Beneath the eccentric surface lay a refined sensibility and a love of beauty—qualities that drew him to Pierre-François-Pascal Guerlain’s perfumery. Seymour became one of Guerlain’s earliest and most influential patrons, captivated by the subtlety and sophistication of the young perfumer’s creations. His admiration and endorsement lent the fledgling house immediate prestige, establishing Guerlain as a perfumer of distinction and innovation among both French society and visiting foreign elites.

Through this early connection, Guerlain’s reputation blossomed. The perfumes he crafted were celebrated for their refinement, novelty, and balance, qualities that mirrored the cosmopolitan elegance of his clientele. The patronage of men like Lord Seymour not only helped secure Guerlain’s place among Paris’s most esteemed artisans but also set the tone for the brand’s enduring association with aristocracy, taste, and the art of living beautifully. It was in this refined yet exuberant world—of carriages, candlelight, and whispered scandal—that Guerlain’s legacy first took root.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Bouquet de Lord Seymour is most likely based on the popular perfume of the day, Jockey Club, which would be a nod to Lord Seymour's Jockey Club in Paris. Jockey Club was designed to evoke the fresh greens at Epsom Downs. It is classified as a floral oriental fragrance for men and women.

• Top notes: bergamot, orange, lemon, citron, neroli petale, orange blossom, cassie, mimosa, rose, benzoic acid, amyl cinnamate, cinnamon
• Middle notes: lavender, English honey, Bouvardia base, tuberose, jasmine, rose, rose geranium, clove, heliotropin, violet
• Base notes: orris, storax, vanillin, ambergris, civet, coumarin, musk, medlar, tonka bean, Peru balsam, Mysore sandalwood, oakmoss, calamus, musk ambrette, styrax, Siam benzoin, tolu balsam, patchouli

Scent Profile:

Bouquet de Lord Seymour, likely inspired by the popular Jockey Club fragrance of the early 19th century, was a perfume crafted to evoke the fresh green air of the English countryside, mingled with the polished elegance of Parisian refinement. It was a floral oriental, the kind that balanced pastoral freshness with sensual depth—a composition that perfectly mirrored its namesake, Lord Seymour, whose extravagant charm concealed a cultivated and refined soul. To smell it would be to walk through an English garden at dawn, dressed in silk, with sunlight catching the dew on the hedgerows and the faintest trace of polished wood lingering in the air.

The fragrance opens with a burst of bright citrus—Calabrian bergamot, Sevillian orange, lemon, and citron—each bringing its own nuance of sunlight. Bergamot offers that soft, slightly bitter green edge, rich in linalyl acetate and limonene, which adds both brilliance and smoothness. The orange and lemon, high in citral and limonene, contribute zest and clarity, creating a sparkling freshness that feels effervescent rather than sharp. Then comes neroli pétale and orange blossom, both from the sun-drenched groves of Tunisia or southern France. Their sweet, honeyed facets—driven by linalool and indole—soften the citrus with a silky white floral sheen. Into this radiant bouquet, cassie and mimosa weave their delicate powdery warmth, their benzaldehyde and anisic aldehyde lending a faint almond-vanilla breath. A trace of rose rounds the accord, while the faintly spicy sweetness of benzoic acid, amyl cinnamate, and cinnamon hints at something deeper beneath the surface—a touch of Parisian exoticism hidden within English restraint.

As the top fades, the heart unfolds into lush florals and gentle aromatics, evocative of a sun-warmed conservatory. Lavender from Provence lends its clean, herbal freshness, rich in linalool and coumarin, bridging the crisp top notes with the warmth to come. English honey brings a golden sweetness, smooth and waxy, wrapping around bouvardia, tuberose, and jasmine—a trio of creamy, narcotic blooms filled with natural indoles and benzyl acetate. Rose and rose geranium echo the earlier floral notes, reinforcing their romantic core, while clove and heliotropin (a synthetic discovery of the late 19th century) add a spicy, almond-like note that enhances the natural heliotrope facet already present in the floral blend. Violet, high in ionones, adds a cool, powdery veil—an elegant restraint that makes the composition feel tailored and genteel, like a well-fitted riding jacket.

Then, beneath the florals, the base emerges with rich, sensual gravity—a masterful blend of natural resins, musks, and woods. Orris root, with its buttery, powdery elegance from ionones and irones, pairs beautifully with storax, styrax, and Siam benzoin, whose vanillic balsamic sweetness lends warmth and longevity. Vanillin, one of the earliest synthetics, amplifies these creamy aspects, creating a soft halo of sweetness around the deeper animalics. Ambergris tincture and civet add depth and sensuality, their subtle marine and leathery nuances evoking the warmth of skin. 

Tonka bean, coumarin, and medlar (a rare fruit note) give the base a round, almond-vanilla tone, further enriched by Peru and Tolu balsams with their caramel-like warmth. Mysore sandalwood, prized for its buttery richness and high santalol content, merges seamlessly with oakmoss and patchouli, creating a velvety, mossy finish. The inclusion of musk ambrette (a natural seed musk) and early synthetics like musk xylene would have enhanced the sillage, ensuring the perfume left a long, soft trail—an echo of the very word “sillage.”

Together, these ingredients tell a story of contrast and harmony—the crisp, green brightness of England meeting the lush sensuality of the Orient, interpreted through French craftsmanship. The citrus and herbs lend movement, the florals add romance, and the resins and musks ground the perfume in timeless sophistication. Bouquet de Lord Seymour would have smelled both fresh and aristocratic, an olfactory reflection of its patron—refined, daring, and unforgettable, leaving behind a lingering trace of elegance long after the wearer had passed.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued (date unknown) Still being sold in 1886. 

Naissance Shalimar Exceptional Presentation 2009

For Christmas 2009, Guerlain unveiled an extraordinary collector’s piece that celebrated the timeless legacy of Shalimar—a perfume that has come to embody sensuality and refinement for nearly a century. Entitled “Naissance Shalimar Guerlain,” this breathtaking creation was designed by the renowned French sculptor Serge Mansau, whose visionary approach to perfume presentation transformed flacons into art. Mansau’s concept was to represent the birth of Shalimar itself—an olfactory legend brought to life through a sculptural narrative of transformation and revelation.

The composition features five Baccarat crystal flacons, all vintage and originally produced in the 1930s, displayed within a transparent Plexiglas slab that measures 38.5 cm in length and 15 cm in height. Four of these exquisite flacons, empty and suspended within the clear structure, seem to emerge gradually from the acrylic—each bottle revealing a little more of its shape than the one before it, symbolizing the progressive “awakening” or evolution of Shalimar. The fifth and final bottle, a 20 ml flacon filled with freshly made parfum extrait, stands free at the front—its rich golden liquid glowing like a living heart at the center of the composition.

The interplay between the crystal and the Plexiglas evokes a sense of time suspended, of fragrance crystallized in motion. The Baccarat bottles, with their sensual curves and the familiar fan-shaped stoppers, are reminders of Shalimar’s Art Deco heritage and Guerlain’s long partnership with the famed French glassmaker. The contrast between the solid, modern Plexiglas and the delicate, hand-blown vintage crystal mirrors the meeting of eras—1930s elegance reinterpreted through the lens of contemporary artistry.

Mansau’s sculpture captures more than beauty; it tells a story. The gradual emergence of the flacons suggests not only the “birth” of the perfume but also the rebirth of Shalimar through the generations—its formula reimagined, its bottle reinvented, yet its soul eternally the same. Only 19 sets of this extraordinary piece were ever produced, making it one of the most exclusive and conceptually profound Shalimar editions in Guerlain’s history.

The “Naissance Shalimar” stands as both an homage and a meditation—an exploration of the life of a perfume, from inspiration to immortality, captured in glass and light. It is at once sculpture, perfume, and time capsule: a moment of Shalimar’s eternal story made tangible.