Aqua Allegoria Passiflora c2018

Aqua Allegoria Passiflora was launched in 2018 as part of Guerlain’s celebrated Aqua Allegoria collection, a line dedicated to intensely fresh fragrances that combine the immediacy of a cologne with the lasting elegance of a Guerlain perfume. The name Passiflora, pronounced as "pa-see-FLOR-a", is the Latin term for the passion flower. It evokes images of sun-soaked tropical gardens, delicate climbing vines, and exotic blooms that are both playful and sensuous. The word carries connotations of vitality, brightness, and natural elegance, immediately suggesting a fragrance that is both lively and luminous.

The fragrance was created in a period when perfumery increasingly emphasized freshness, wearable complexity, and a sense of escape or sensory vacation. Launched in 2018, Passiflora arrived at a time when trends favored vibrant, naturalistic fragrances that could be enjoyed daily, reflecting modern lifestyles and global inspirations. Women—and men—seeking a fragrance called Passiflora would likely associate it with energy, sunshine, and effortless sophistication, imagining a scent that is juicy, floral, and subtly exotic. The perfume’s name itself conveys a sense of lightness and intrigue, suggesting the airy sweetness of tropical flowers and the succulent brightness of fruit.

Olfactorily, Passiflora is classified as a fresh floral-fruity fragrance, designed to capture the feeling of a sunlit day beside crystalline waters. The perfume opens with the sparkling vibrancy of bergamot, Guerlain’s signature “Calabrian green gold,” providing a crisp, luminous lift that immediately energizes the senses. At the heart, passion fruit lends a sun-soaked, tropical juiciness, bright yet not cloying, balanced by the smooth, floral creaminess of ylang-ylang, whose warm, slightly exotic aroma enhances the fragrance’s lushness. The overall effect is airy and refreshing, with an aquatic facet reminiscent of a serene lagoon, where fruity brightness meets gentle floral elegance.

In the context of the 2010s, Passiflora aligned with broader trends in perfumery, where freshness, fruity-floral accords, and versatile wearability were highly prized. Yet it retained a distinctive Guerlain signature: refined balance, the soft complexity of the Guerlinade base, and the subtle depth that transforms a sparkling cologne-like freshness into a memorable, elegant perfume. Encased in a pure, refined bottle adorned with a golden mesh—a homage to the legendary Bee bottle—the fragrance not only delivers a radiant scent but also embodies Guerlain’s long tradition of combining modernity, artistry, and sensory storytelling.

Fragrance Composition:

 
So what does it smell like? Aqua Allegoria Passiflora is classified as a fresh floral-fruity fragrance.

• Top notes: aldehydes, mandarin, Calabrian bergamot, lemon, grapefruit
• Middle notes: passion fruit, aquatic note, ylang ylang, orange blossom, green notes
• Base notes: white musk

Scent Profile:

From the very first spray, Aqua Allegoria Passiflora bursts forth with a sparkling, luminous brightness. Aldehydes lend an effervescent lift, creating a clean, airy radiance that enhances the citrus notes and gives the fragrance a sense of immediacy and freshness. The mandarin introduces a sweet, sun-kissed juiciness, bright and tender, while Calabrian bergamot, often called the “green gold” of Italy, adds a crisp, slightly green sharpness with a floral undertone that distinguishes it from more generic citrus varieties. Lemon contributes its sharp, zesty clarity, cutting through the sweetness with an invigorating tang, and grapefruit provides a slightly bitter, tangy edge that adds complexity and lift. Together, these top notes evoke a sunlit orchard, where dew-fresh citrus fruits glisten under clear skies, awakening the senses with a sparkling clarity.

As the fragrance unfolds, the heart blooms into a tropical, aquatic floral bouquet. Passion fruit delivers a lush, juicy sweetness reminiscent of sun-ripened fruit on a warm island, immediately transporting the senses to a vibrant, exotic paradise. Aquatic notes provide a crystalline freshness, like a gentle lagoon breeze brushing against the skin, while ylang-ylang contributes its creamy, slightly exotic floral warmth, softening the brightness with sensuality. Orange blossom lends a delicate, honeyed sweetness, balancing the tropical fruitiness, and green notes—evocative of freshly crushed leaves—add a natural, verdant facet, keeping the composition lively and light. The middle notes together create an airy, sun-drenched heart, vibrant yet smooth, perfectly capturing the feeling of an endless, luminous summer day.

Finally, the base emerges with the subtle, enveloping softness of white musk. Its gentle, skin-like warmth extends the fragrance, providing a delicate, lingering trail without overshadowing the sparkling top and tropical floral heart. The musk harmonizes the composition, giving it elegance, longevity, and a whisper of sensuality, while allowing the freshness and vibrancy of the earlier notes to remain the focus. In modern perfumery, white musk often complements natural floral and citrus ingredients, enhancing their clarity and persistence, which in Passiflora ensures the fragrance feels both radiant and enduring.

Overall, Aqua Allegoria Passiflora is a masterful fresh floral-fruity fragrance. Its sparkling aldehydes and citrus opening awaken the senses, the tropical floral heart delights with creamy sweetness and aquatic freshness, and the soft musk base ensures a graceful, lingering presence. The perfume embodies a joyous, sun-drenched escape, celebrating the elegance, lightness, and refinement that are hallmarks of Guerlain’s Aqua Allegoria line.

Bottles:

The fragrance was available as a 75 and 125 ml of Eau de Toilette.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Passiflora was discontinued for spring 2021.

Bouquet de Lord Elphinstone c1839

Launched in 1839, Bouquet de Lord Elphinstone by Guerlain carries a name that evokes both distinction and historical significance. The fragrance is named after John Elphinstone, the 13th Lord Elphinstone, a notable British colonial administrator who served as the Governor of Madras and later Bombay. His reputation for leadership during the Indian Mutiny and his high status made him a figure of considerable esteem.

The name "Bouquet de Lord Elphinstone" translates to “Bouquet of Lord Elphinstone” in English, combining the French word "Bouquet," meaning "bouquet" or "arrangement of flowers," with the title of a respected British nobleman. This choice of name suggests a fragrance that aims to capture the elegance and sophistication associated with Lord Elphinstone’s stature. It conveys an image of grandeur and refinement, positioning the perfume as a luxurious and distinguished choice.

The term "Bouquet de Lord Elphinstone" would evoke imagery of an opulent floral arrangement, possibly incorporating exotic and classic blooms that reflect both British nobility and colonial charm. The scent would likely be interpreted as a sophisticated blend of floral and perhaps slightly spicy or woody notes, designed to reflect the exotic and influential nature of its namesake.

Women of the 19th century, particularly those familiar with the prominent figures of the British Empire, would have related to Bouquet de Lord Elphinstone as a fragrance embodying the grace and high status of its namesake. The early 19th century was a period when perfumes often carried names associated with royalty or notable figures, enhancing their allure and prestige. As such, this fragrance would have been viewed as an elegant and exclusive choice, suitable for women who wished to express their sophistication and appreciation for refined scents. The time period was marked by a growing interest in exotic and luxurious goods, influenced by expanding global trade and colonial encounters, making a perfume named after a significant historical figure a particularly appealing and prestigious choice.

 

Fragrance Composition:

I do not have any notes on this fragrance.

Bottle:

Most likely housed in the Carre flacon.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown

Bouquet Suave c1834

Launched in 1834, Bouquet Suave was one of Pierre-François Pascal Guerlain’s early triumphs and a fragrance that would enjoy popularity well into the 20th century. The name itself—Bouquet Suave—is French, pronounced as "boo-KAY SWAHV". The words translate as “gentle” or “sweet bouquet,” conjuring images of softness, refinement, and harmonious beauty. In sound and meaning, the name suggests a floral composition that is both elegant and caressing, designed to soothe the senses while enveloping the wearer in grace. It evokes a sense of calm luxury: fresh flowers arranged not in wild profusion but in a carefully balanced, courtly display, exuding sophistication rather than flamboyance.

The time of its debut was the July Monarchy (1830–1848), a period when Paris was asserting itself as the cultural and fashionable capital of Europe. This was an age of refinement and burgeoning modernity, when women’s fashions moved toward more natural silhouettes after the rigid lines of the Napoleonic Empire style. Flowing gowns, delicate lace, floral motifs, and accessories emphasized softness and femininity, while society itself increasingly embraced the rituals of elegance—perfume being among the most visible symbols of refinement. In this climate, a perfume called Bouquet Suave would have resonated strongly with women seeking a fragrance that mirrored their ideals of grace and romantic delicacy.

In terms of olfactory character, Guerlain’s Bouquet Suave was classified as an opulent floral oriental fragrance for women. Its name suggested a lush arrangement of flowers enriched with depth and warmth, likely drawing upon the era’s preference for violet, rose, orange blossom, and other soft florals, while grounding them in resinous or ambered notes for richness. The word “suave” translated into scent would imply smoothness and balance—florals blended seamlessly with orientalist warmth, producing a fragrance both comforting and luxurious. For women of the 1830s, this would have been not only fashionable but aspirational, embodying both the romance of flowers and the exoticism of distant lands.

Bouquet Suave was not unique to Guerlain alone—nearly every major perfumery of the 19th century offered a version of this popular formula. Recipes circulated widely in formularies of the time, giving perfumers a foundation they could modify by adding or subtracting ingredients to make their own interpretation distinctive. Guerlain’s decision to release a version in 1834 placed the house within a larger trend, yet his artistry ensured refinement and balance that helped the fragrance stand apart in a crowded market. Early iterations of the formula would have relied almost entirely on natural extracts, tinctures, and infusions, with ingredients sourced at considerable expense. By the late 19th century, however, perfumers—including Guerlain—began incorporating synthetic aroma chemicals, either to replace costly naturals or to heighten their effect, ensuring the fragrance could remain both beautiful and enduring in a changing perfumery landscape.

Ultimately, Bouquet Suave became not just a single fragrance but a reflection of its era—a time when women embraced softness and elegance, when Parisian perfumery was beginning its ascent, and when Guerlain established itself as a master of transforming universal trends into singular expressions of artistry and style.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Bouquet Suave by Guerlain is classified as an opulent floral oriental fragrance for women.

• Top notes: lemon, bergamot, neroli, orange blossom, verbena, cassie, rose 
• Middle notes: rose, tuberose, jasmine, violet, iris, mace, clove
• Base notes: rosewood, vanilla, musk, ambergris, tonka bean, tolu balsam, Peru balsam, civet

Scent Profile:

The very first breath of Bouquet Suave sparkles with a lively interplay of citrus and blossoms. Lemon bursts forth with sharp brightness, its zest shimmering like sunlight, quickly softened by the more rounded, slightly bitter-sweet warmth of Calabrian bergamot, prized for its complexity and gentle floral undertones. Neroli, distilled from the blossoms of the bitter orange tree in Tunisia, unfurls with a honeyed, green luminosity that both refreshes and caresses. From the same tree comes orange blossom absolute, deeper and more narcotic than neroli, its creamy white petals releasing a sensual warmth that softens the citric bite. Verbena adds a crystalline green note, lemony but tender, evoking crushed leaves under the fingers. The introduction becomes richer with cassie, a mimosa-like floral with powdery, balsamic depth, infusing a golden, pollen-dusted warmth. Finally, the delicate breath of rose emerges, light but insistent, weaving a thread of romantic softness through the brightness.

As the fragrance settles into its heart, it blooms into a lush, opulent bouquet. Rose takes center stage, fuller and richer here, embodying both freshness and depth, likely drawn from Bulgarian varieties with their velvety, wine-like richness. Tuberose, creamy and intoxicating, brings its voluptuous, almost narcotic quality, while jasmine, perhaps from Grasse or Egypt, glows with sensual radiance, luminous yet animalic beneath the surface. Violet contributes a soft powderiness—its candied, leafy sweetness cushioning the intensity of the heady florals—while iris, with its buttery, woody-powdery facets, adds refinement and texture. Spices flicker at the edges: mace, the delicate lacy covering of nutmeg, lends warm, slightly resinous depth, while clove, rich in eugenol, brings a sharper, fiery accent that cuts through the lush florals with vibrancy. This interplay of flowers and spice makes the heart both romantic and commanding, a fragrance of presence as much as beauty.

The base notes unfold with an opulent, sensual resonance. Rosewood contributes a soft, rosy-woody anchor, its delicate sweetness extending the floral accord into the depths. Vanilla, likely Madagascan, unfurls in rich, creamy warmth, its balsamic sweetness weaving comfort into the structure. Musk envelops everything with a skin-like softness, binding the notes together with sensuality. Ambergris, rare and treasured, contributes a subtle salty, marine warmth, lending radiance and persistence. Tonka bean, rich in coumarin, adds a toasted-almond warmth that harmonizes with tolu balsam and Peru balsam—resinous, caramelic notes that give the base its opulent oriental richness. Finally, civet, with its animalic depth, adds a pulse of sensuality, a whisper of danger beneath the beauty, heightening the natural floral and balsamic notes with an almost primal warmth.

What makes Bouquet Suave so compelling is the seamless balance of natural ingredients with subtle use of synthetics. Compounds like linalool and linalyl acetate naturally present in bergamot and neroli are heightened to emphasize brightness, while ionones derived from violet extend the powdery facets and harmonize them with iris. Eugenol, the key molecule in clove, sharpens and dramatizes the floral bouquet, while coumarin from tonka bean anchors the base with a smooth, sweet warmth that enhances the balsamic notes. These synthetics do not replace nature but rather polish it, ensuring projection, clarity, and longevity.

The result is an opulent floral oriental that unfolds like a grand orchestral composition: a dazzling citrus-floral overture, a lush and spicy heart, and a resinous, animalic, and vanillic finale. Bouquet Suave captures not only the elegance of 19th-century perfumery but also Guerlain’s gift for transforming familiar themes into works of depth, radiance, and lasting beauty.

  

Bottles:

Presented in the Carre flacon.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown Still sold in 1839

Aqua Allegoria Nerolia Vetiver c2022

Aqua Allegoria Nerolia Vetiver by Guerlain was launched in 2022 as part of the House’s celebrated Aqua Allegoria collection, which highlights fresh, nature-inspired fragrances. The name Nerolia Vetiver (pronounced neh-ROH-lee-ah VEH-tee-ver) is drawn directly from its principal ingredients: neroli, the delicate essence distilled from the blossoms of the bitter orange tree, and vetiver, the richly earthy root long prized in perfumery. In French, the name simply signifies “neroli and vetiver,” evoking a pairing of bright floral radiance with grounding woody depth. The imagery it suggests is of sunlit orange groves alongside verdant fields of vetiver, balancing warmth, energy, and earthiness. The name carries a sense of elegance and refinement, projecting both freshness and sophistication.

Neroli, central to the fragrance, is sourced from bitter orange trees in regions such as Tunisia, Morocco, and southern Italy. The blossoms are typically hand-harvested in the early morning to preserve their delicate aroma. Steam distillation extracts the essential oil, which contains aromatic compounds like linalool, limonene, and nerolidol. These naturally occurring chemicals impart a bright, floral, and slightly honeyed character that is instantly recognizable in perfumery. Vetiver, traditionally sourced from Java, Haiti, or India, contributes a complex, earthy, and smoky profile. Its roots are cleaned, dried, and steam-distilled to obtain the essential oil, which contains vetiverol, khusimol, and other aromatic constituents that lend depth and persistence to compositions. The pairing of neroli and vetiver reflects Guerlain’s skill in balancing freshness with structure.

 

The fragrance was launched in a period marked by a resurgence of natural and unisex fragrances, reflecting contemporary trends favoring clarity, versatility, and subtle sophistication. In 2022, perfumery saw a focus on eco-conscious sourcing, lighter compositions, and a renewed interest in botanical inspirations. Nerolia Vetiver fit seamlessly into this landscape, appealing to women and men alike who sought elegance in simplicity, while retaining a connection to traditional natural ingredients. Women encountering this fragrance would have recognized the bright, floral energy of neroli as uplifting and refined, while the vetiver added depth and an understated sophistication.

In scent, the name Nerolia Vetiver is immediately legible: one imagines the floral brightness of fresh orange blossoms unfolding over the green, earthy whispers of vetiver. Basil and fig accords, subtle but present in the composition, add nuance and complexity, echoing the interplay suggested by the name. The fragrance aligns with the Aqua Allegoria ethos of creating naturally inspired, radiant, and unisex perfumes, and while it harmonized with contemporary trends, its careful balance of traditional ingredients and modern execution gave it a distinct presence in the 2022 fragrance market.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Aqua Allegoria Nerolia Vetiver is classified as a woody floral musk fragrance for women and men. A radiant neroli, underscored by vetiver and refreshed with basil, paired with a delicious fig accord.

• Top notes: Calabrian neroli, bergamot, petitgrain, basil
• Middle notes: fig accord
• Base notes: vetiver, woods

Scent Profile:

Aqua Allegoria Nerolia Vetiver by Guerlain is a masterful interplay of bright floral, green, and earthy notes, crafted as a woody floral musk for both women and men. The fragrance opens with Calabrian neroli, distilled from the blossoms of bitter orange trees in Calabria, Italy. This particular neroli is prized for its luminous, honeyed-floral clarity, distinguished from varieties of neroli grown elsewhere by its vibrant citrus lift and delicate, almost green facets. The essential oil contains naturally occurring compounds such as linalool, limonene, and nerolidol, which imbue it with a sweet, sparkling, and slightly resinous character. 

In the top accord, bergamot adds a shimmering brightness and juicy tang, sourced from Southern Italy, celebrated for its intensely aromatic rind rich in limonene and linalyl acetate, which contribute a crisp citrus sparkle that complements the floral neroli. Petitgrain, derived from the leaves and young branches of the bitter orange tree, contributes an herbaceous and slightly woody facet, enhancing the natural green character of neroli. Basil, with its aromatic, slightly spicy herbal essence rich in linalool and estragole, refreshes the composition, adding vibrancy and a subtle aromatic complexity that highlights the interplay between citrus and green notes.

The heart of the fragrance is dominated by a fig accord, evoking the soft sweetness of ripe figs, the crisp greenness of leaves, and the slightly milky texture of the pulp. This accord lends the perfume a gourmand nuance while remaining naturalistic, harmonizing the floral brightness of neroli with the grounding elements of the composition. Fig’s naturally occurring molecules, like cis-3-hexenol, impart a leafy freshness, while synthetic enhancers provide longevity and amplify the creaminess of the fruit, allowing the heart to resonate fully without overpowering the top notes.

In the base, vetiver provides an earthy, smoky, and woody foundation, sourced from Haiti or Java for its refined, deep, and slightly leathery nuances. Vetiver essential oil is rich in vetiverol, khusimol, and other sesquiterpenes, contributing a grounding, woody complexity that balances the lighter, brighter notes above. Additional woods complement the vetiver, lending subtle warmth, structure, and longevity to the composition, reinforcing the unisex appeal of the fragrance. The combination of natural oils and modern aromachemicals ensures the scent is both vibrant and persistent, with a sophisticated trail that evolves delicately on the skin.

Overall, Aqua Allegoria Nerolia Vetiver captures a vivid sensory journey: the sparkling citrus-floral opening gradually softens into a creamy, green-fruited heart, and finally settles into an earthy, woody embrace. It is a modern interpretation of a classic aromatic cycle, marrying high-quality natural essences with precise synthetic enhancers to produce clarity, balance, and elegance suitable for contemporary tastes.

Fate of the Fragrance:

As of 2025, the fragrance is still available on Guerlain's website.