Vega 1926

In 1926, Vega by Guerlain was launched, a creation by the renowned perfumer Jacques Guerlain. The name Vega was chosen for its celestial connection, named after one of the brightest stars in the night sky, more radiant than the sun itself. Jacques Guerlain, passionate about the mysteries of the universe and regularly consulting treatises on astronomy, found inspiration in this distant star. The name Vega comes from the Arabic word "Al-Waqi," which means "the diving eagle," a reference to the star’s positioning in the Lyra constellation. Interestingly, around 12,000 years ago, Earth's rotational axis passed through Vega, making it the North Star during that time. The idea of a star once guiding the planet would have captivated Guerlain, as it represented timeless beauty, power, and an eternal connection to the cosmos. Pronounced "Vay-gah," the word Vega rolls off the tongue with a sense of grace and ethereal elegance.

The name Vega evokes images of the vast, infinite sky, filled with sparkling stars, and the sense of awe that comes with contemplating the enormity of the universe. It brings to mind the brilliance of a star that has guided civilizations, suggesting both a sense of history and cosmic mystery. The word carries a duality—on one hand, it evokes an eagle’s majestic dive, a symbol of strength and power; on the other, it conjures an image of a distant star, burning bright in the cold expanse of space. In scent, Vega would be interpreted as something otherworldly, a fragrance that captures the cold clarity of starlight and the vastness of space, balanced by the warmth and radiance of its celestial inspiration.

Vega is classified as an aldehydic floral fragrance, and the inclusion of aldehydes plays a significant role in how the perfume evokes the cosmos. Aldehydes bring a sparkling, effervescent quality to fragrances, often described as "soapy" or "metallic," but in Vega, they create the sensation of shimmering stardust, a crystalline brightness that feels as if it belongs to another realm. Aldehydes lend a unique abstraction to the fragrance, suggesting the cold, crisp air of outer space, where stars glitter in the silence. This effervescent quality also adds a sense of distance and mystery, much like gazing at stars from Earth. The floral notes, roses, jasmine, and ylang-ylang, are softened and abstracted by the aldehydes, giving them a luminous, almost intangible quality, like the scent of flowers carried by a gentle cosmic breeze.

In the 1920s, the world was fascinated by the mysteries of the universe, with astronomy influencing not only science but also the arts, fashion, and perfumery. The post-war era brought about an intense curiosity for exploration and the unknown, with the modern woman looking toward the future. Art Deco, with its sleek, geometric designs, took inspiration from both ancient cultures and futuristic ideas, while films and literature began to explore themes of space and the cosmos. Naming a perfume after a star in this period would have held significant meaning—it was an era when people were captivated by progress, modernity, and the wonders of the universe. A fragrance named Vega would have symbolized sophistication, the allure of the unknown, and a sense of timelessness.

For women of the time, Vega would have been more than just a perfume—it would have been an emblem of modernity, a connection to the infinite possibilities of the future, as well as the elegance and mystery of the night sky. Wearing Vega would have evoked a sense of freedom, the idea of reaching beyond the ordinary, embodying the sophistication and curiosity of the 1920s woman. In a time when fashion, art, and society were breaking free from the confines of tradition, Vega would have resonated as a symbol of both beauty and boldness—a fragrance that, like the star it was named after, shone with unmatched brilliance.

Original Fragrance Composition:

What does it smell like? It is classified as an aldehydic floral fragrance for women.

• Top notes: aldehyde, jasmine, bergamot, neroli
• Middle notes: jasmine, rose, ylang ylang, sweet acacia, orange blossom, vetiver, patchouli, sandalwood orris, vanilla
• Base notes: jasmine, heliotrope, musk, tonka bean

Vogue, 1936:

"Vega by Guerlain, flowers, transposed by the organ of perfumes onto the celestial register."

Scent Profile:

As I encounter Vega, the first inhalation is a flash of brightness, like starlight breaking through the vast expanse of the cosmos. The aldehydes burst forth with the force of a supernova—sharp, radiant, and cold, they sparkle in the air like distant stars twinkling against the inky black of space. The aldehydes lend a crispness to the fragrance, creating a feeling of suspended light, as if I am gazing at the endless galaxies, their brilliance undimmed by time or distance. There’s a metallic sheen to them, as if the scent captures the silence and vastness of the universe itself.

As this cosmic brilliance fades into the atmosphere, a warmer celestial glow begins to appear. Bergamot flickers like the pale yellow of a rising sun on a distant planet, its citrusy, slightly bitter essence giving the sensation of light without heat. There’s an energy here, bright and fresh, as if the early morning glow of a new star system is slowly coming into focus. Neroli follows, its honeyed, floral sweetness like the golden rays of a setting star—soft, tender, and radiant, evoking warmth and life amidst the cold reaches of space. The interplay of these notes creates a sensation of both immense power and gentle beauty, like the dance of light across the heavens.

Beneath this starry opening, Vega’s heart begins to pulse, drawing me closer to the cosmic nebula where stars are born. Jasmine is at the core, blooming with the soft, white glow of a distant star cluster. It is rich and heady, like the gaseous clouds from which new worlds form—dense, floral, and sweet, yet tinged with mystery. This jasmine feels eternal, its beauty echoing through the cosmos like a celestial bloom that drifts on solar winds. Rose, too, emerges, its petals velvety and deep crimson, offering a touch of warmth, as though I’m encountering the first signs of life in a new galaxy. Together, jasmine and rose form a perfect balance, representing the dual nature of creation—both delicate and powerful.

The golden hue of ylang ylang appears next, like a pulsar, flashing rhythmically with a creamy, slightly fruity richness. It warms the heart of the fragrance, infusing it with a tropical, almost exotic pulse, much like the radiant energy of a star growing ever more vibrant. The delicate powdery sweetness of sweet acacia weaves through, lending a soft, dreamy quality, like the mist of distant cosmic clouds. It feels like a soft breeze in space, tender and light, a whisper of something ancient and familiar yet distant.

Further into this celestial journey, I detect the grounding presence of vetiver and patchouli, the earthy, woody tones anchoring the vastness of the cosmos. Vetiver is sharp and dry, like the dusty surfaces of alien worlds, its scent almost reminiscent of the arid, untouched landscapes of moons and planets. Patchouli follows, deep and rich, echoing the mysterious shadows of the universe’s darker corners, where unknown worlds hide in the cold, silent expanse. These earthy tones tether the fragrance to the physical realm, connecting the celestial dance to the very fabric of the universe itself.

Sandalwood lends a creamy, woody warmth, as smooth and luminous as the soft glow of a planetary ring. Its scent feels ancient, like the remnants of long-forgotten civilizations, echoing through space. Orris, with its powdery, violet-like elegance, adds a touch of cool refinement, like the surface of a moon kissed by distant starlight. This heart of Vega feels like a constellation, each floral and earthy note orbiting the other, creating a delicate balance that reflects the perfect harmony of the cosmos.

As Vega settles into its base, the fragrance becomes softer, like the fading light of a distant star. The lingering heliotrope offers a soft, almond-like sweetness, delicate and comforting, as if the scent of dusk has descended on an ancient galaxy. Musk adds an ethereal depth, almost animalistic in its raw beauty, as though it captures the very essence of life itself, traveling across the stars. The tonka bean brings a warm, almost caramel-like sweetness, a final whisper of comfort in the cool expanse of space, blending with the vanilla to create a smooth, enveloping cocoon of scent.

Throughout this journey, Vega feels as if it is channeling the vastness of the universe, each ingredient a star, a planet, or a celestial body orbiting around each other, forming a fragrance that captures both the infinite beauty of the cosmos and the quiet mysteries that lie beyond the stars. Each note feels like a cosmic dance, a reflection of the endless cycles of creation and destruction, the endless stretch of time and space, all captured in the delicate blend of this fragrance. Vega is a tribute to the stars, a scent that evokes the awe-inspiring beauty of the universe, while grounding us in the mystery of the heavens.

Bottles:

The parfum was originally housed in the 4 oz Encrier, the inkwell shaped bottle, made by Baccarat and packaged in a Bakelite box.

Other bottles were the Quadrilobe flacon (parfum), the Goutte flacon (eau de toilette), and the Montre flacon (eau de cologne).

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Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued (date unknown). It was still being sold in 1953.

1998 Reformulation & Reissue:

In 1998, Guerlain decided to bring back Vega, reintroducing the classic fragrance in a limited edition that would captivate both longtime admirers and new enthusiasts. This reissue was not just a simple relaunch; it was a celebration of the timeless allure that Jacques Guerlain had originally crafted in 1926. Only 853 numbered copies of the parfum were produced, making the fragrance an exclusive treasure for collectors and lovers of the Guerlain house. Guerlain maintained the essence of the original, but the fragrance was reformulated using modern ingredients, likely to meet updated regulations and adapt to contemporary preferences while still preserving the character and spirit of the original formula.

The parfum was housed in the same elegant "encrier" flacon, a bottle design that mirrored the opulence and sophistication of the Art Deco period. This ink-well-shaped bottle, with its clean lines and understated luxury, remained faithful to Guerlain’s heritage, connecting the reissued Vega to its illustrious past. Holding 2 ounces of parfum, the bottle retained the grandeur of the original release, a nod to both Guerlain's respect for tradition and its desire to create a lasting impression.

The packaging itself was a careful reproduction of the original 1926 presentation, complete with the star motif adorning the top of the box. This detail was significant, as it echoed the celestial inspiration behind Vega, named after the radiant star that fascinated Jacques Guerlain. The star symbol, gleaming atop the box, evoked the same sense of wonder and cosmic beauty that the fragrance was meant to capture, further enhancing the luxurious and otherworldly experience of owning this rare parfum.

However, despite its undeniable allure, the 1998 reissue of Vega was a fleeting moment in Guerlain’s history. Once the 853 bottles were sold, Vega was discontinued, making it an elusive and highly coveted piece of the Guerlain legacy. Those fortunate enough to acquire the parfum secured not only a piece of fragrance history but also a symbol of the enduring beauty and craftsmanship that defines Guerlain's creations.

2005 Reformulation & Reissue:

In 2005, Jean-Paul Guerlain undertook the delicate task of reformulating Vega, ensuring its timeless charm would resonate with a modern audience. This reimagined version of Vega was carefully crafted using contemporary ingredients, honoring its original essence while adapting to changes in olfactory trends and regulatory standards. Jean-Paul Guerlain, the grandson of the legendary Jacques Guerlain, approached the project with reverence, preserving the celestial elegance of the scent while subtly modernizing its composition to appeal to the 21st-century perfume lover.

This relaunch was not just any release; it coincided with the grand reopening of Guerlain’s flagship store on the Champs-Elysées in Paris. The store itself had been a beacon of luxury and refinement for decades, and its renovation represented a renewed dedication to the house's heritage and its future. The relaunch of Vega served as a fitting tribute to both the legacy of the perfume house and the splendor of the newly renovated store.

In this new formulation, Vega continued to embody the same cosmic inspiration that Jacques Guerlain had originally intended. Jean-Paul retained the fragrance’s signature aldehydic floral character, but with a refined balance that felt more attuned to contemporary preferences. The vibrant aldehydes and floral heart remained, but the modern ingredients infused the scent with a fresh, radiant glow, making it more accessible while maintaining its allure.

This 2005 reissue marked a return to the luminous, star-inspired fantasy of Vega, but with a renewed sophistication befitting its place in the heart of Guerlain’s revitalized Champs-Elysées flagship. Once again, Vega stood as a symbol of both the house’s mastery of perfumery and its enduring connection to the cosmos, a celestial fragrance fit for modern times but grounded in history.

From Guerlain:

Passionate about great spaces, Jacques Guerlain consulted regularly treatises on astronomy and was dazzled by the power of this star. In Arabic, the Vega name means "Eagle dive", perhaps to recall that there 12,000 years, the axis of rotation of the Earth passed through Vega, while North Star.  

Perfume for freedom-loving women, it is the symbol of that carefree era when we ignore the dark clouds piled up gently on the international peace. 

Reformulated Fragrance Composition:

What does it smell like? It is classified as a floral aldehyde, built around jasmine flower which blends woody and powdery notes.

• Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, orange blossom
• Middle notes: jasmine, ylang ylang, rose, black currant blossom, carnation, iris, rosewood
• Base notes: vanilla, sandalwood, amber

Scent Profile:

As I first encounter the reformulated Vega, its top notes instantly transport me into a sparkling, celestial realm. The aldehydes are bright, like starlight breaking through the dark expanse of space, crisp and effervescent. Their sharpness immediately grabs attention, creating a sense of brightness that feels both timeless and modern. Beneath this initial burst, the bergamot emerges, adding a citrusy, slightly bitter edge, reminiscent of distant solar flares. Its zest cuts through the airy aldehydes, grounding them with a fresh, lively brightness. 

Then, the warmth of orange blossom blooms—delicate yet rich, with a honeyed sweetness that softens the sharper aldehydic shimmer. The orange blossom is like a whisper of solar heat, sweet and radiant, lingering like the warmth of sunlight.

As the fragrance settles, the middle notes reveal themselves, led by the intoxicating allure of jasmine. The star of the composition, jasmine is lush, heady, and deeply floral, evoking the vast expanses of star-filled skies, with each blossom unfurling as if to mirror the stars above. It’s sensual yet light, bringing to mind the image of soft moonlight falling on night-blooming flowers. 

Ylang ylang adds an exotic, almost tropical depth to this cosmic bouquet, with its rich, creamy sweetness swirling among the floral notes, like the velvety darkness of space itself. Rose emerges next, lending a timeless, romantic elegance—its petals unfolding with both delicacy and strength. There's a subtle hint of black currant blossom, bringing a whisper of fruity sharpness, like a comet flashing through a distant sky, balancing the florals with a playful tartness. 

The spicy clove-like note of carnation adds a layer of complexity, reminding me of the ancient beauty found in distant galaxies. Meanwhile, iris lends a soft, powdery texture, like stardust, delicate and ethereal, while rosewood brings a gentle woodiness, grounding the florals with a touch of the earth.

Finally, as the scent lingers on the skin, the base notes begin to emerge, like the slow rotation of celestial bodies into view. Vanilla is sweet and comforting, wrapping the floral heart in a warm embrace, like the glow of a distant star. It’s creamy and rich, yet not overpowering, blending seamlessly with the other notes. 

Sandalwood provides a velvety, smooth foundation, its woody, slightly milky scent evoking a sense of timelessness, much like the eternal constellations. Its warmth and earthiness contrast beautifully with the heady florals, grounding the fragrance with a serene, meditative quality. Finally, the deep, resinous amber gives the base a golden glow, adding a soft, sensual warmth that lingers like the afterglow of twilight, shimmering softly as it fades away.

Together, these notes create a cosmic journey, where each layer of Vega evokes the mystery, beauty, and vastness of space. The florals feel like a garden in the stars, with the woody and powdery undertones reminding us of the infinite universe around us. As each note unfolds, Vega becomes not just a fragrance, but an olfactory representation of the celestial and the divine, timeless in its elegance yet as modern and radiant as the stars themselves.

Bottle:

 

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued since 2015.

Vague Souvenir c1912

Vague Souvenir was launched by Guerlain in 1912, a time of social, artistic, and cultural transformation in early 20th-century France. The name, French for “Faint Remembrance” (pronounced "vahg soo-veh-neer"), evokes subtle nostalgia, memory, and the delicate power of scent to transport one back to a fleeting moment. Guerlain may have drawn inspiration from Léo Delibes’ song “Vague Souvenir” from his 1881 opera Lakmé, in which the stanza goes: “What vague souvenir brings down my thoughts.” The opera tells the story of Lakmé, a young Indian priestess, and her tragic love for a British officer in colonial India—a tale of forbidden romance, tenderness, and ephemeral beauty. The perfume’s name and its literary-musical reference evoke the emotional resonance of a fleeting memory: the faint trace of a woman’s perfume on a man’s clothing, a whisper of intimacy, or the delicate imprint of a past encounter.

Created by Jacques Guerlain, Vague Souvenir is classified as a fruity floral tobacco fragrance for women, a bold and evocative combination for its time. The inclusion of tobacco was particularly daring: the early 1910s saw the beginnings of changing social norms around women and smoking, influenced by the suffrage movement and broader cultural shifts toward independence and self-expression. Tobacco in a perfume suggested warmth, sophistication, and subtle sensuality, offering women a fragrance that hinted at confidence and a nuanced, modern femininity while maintaining elegance. The fruity and floral notes provided softness and charm, balancing the deeper, more assertive tobacco, creating a scent that was simultaneously alluring and intimate.

The perfume was launched during the Belle Époque, an era renowned for artistic innovation, opulence, and refinement. Fashion favored intricate gowns, lace, and delicate accessories, while societal trends increasingly embraced leisure, cultural pursuits, and refinement of taste. In perfumery, there was a growing fascination with complex compositions that combined florals, fruits, resins, and increasingly, bold notes such as tobacco or spices. Vague Souvenir was both aligned with these trends and distinctive in its daring combination of feminine florals with a subtly assertive tobacco undertone, offering women a fragrance that was both modern and emotionally evocative.

In scent, the name Vague Souvenir translates directly to the experience it evokes: the fleeting, intimate memory of a fragrance encountered once or twice, leaving a lingering trace that evokes tenderness, nostalgia, and emotional depth. The delicate florals and fruity highlights capture the light, airy beauty of memory, while the tobacco base provides warmth and subtle sensuality, making the perfume feel personal and enveloping. Women of the era would have related to the fragrance as both a private indulgence and a statement of refined modernity, a perfume that could quietly enchant, captivate, and leave a lasting, sophisticated impression.

Fragrance Composition:

What does it smell like? Vague Souvenir by Guerlain is classified as a fruity floral tobacco fragrance for women.

• Top notes: aldehydes, anise, jasmine, absinthe, lavender, bergamot, peach, plum  
• Middle notes: gardenia, carnation, jasmine, rose, orange blossom, ambrette, clove, marjoram, tobacco
• Base notes: musk, ylang ylang, tonka bean

Scent Profile:

From the very first spray, Vague Souvenir announces itself with a sparkling, almost ethereal brightness. Aldehydes lift the composition immediately, creating a clean, effervescent shimmer that amplifies the florals and fruits, giving the opening a luminous, airy quality. Layered over this are the crisp, aromatic notes of anise and absinthe, lending a delicate, green-licorice bite that is at once invigorating and slightly mysterious. The jasmine, likely sourced from Grasse, France, adds a creamy, heady floralcy, while lavender from Provence contributes its familiar herbal freshness, slightly camphorous and subtly sweet. Bergamot, traditionally from Calabria, Italy, imbues the fragrance with sunny, citrus brilliance that balances the herbal and floral notes. The fruity elements—peach and plum—introduce a soft, ripe sweetness, their gentle juiciness blending with the florals to evoke the sensual, fleeting quality of memory itself, like recalling a delicate moment from the past.

As the perfume deepens, the heart unfolds with a complex floral-spicy tapestry. Gardenia and orange blossom bring creamy, sun-warmed petals, luminous and soft, while rose adds a velvet elegance. Carnation offers a slightly spicy, clove-like warmth, complemented by the true clove note itself, which deepens the floral bouquet with piquancy. Marjoram, aromatic and slightly green, enriches the composition with subtle herbal sophistication. Ambrette, derived from the seeds of the hibiscus plant, provides a musky, slightly sweet undertone that enhances the sensuality of the fragrance. Here, tobacco emerges—smoky, rich, and slightly sweet—its warmth echoing the soft allure of a memory, providing depth and grounding the bouquet while blending beautifully with the florals and spices. The inclusion of tobacco at this time was bold, reflecting both evolving social norms around women and smoking and a desire for perfumes that carried warmth, sophistication, and subtle sensuality.

The base notes provide a lasting, intimate resonance that lingers on the skin. Musk, possibly a blend of natural and synthetic elements, offers a soft, skin-like caress that ties the composition together, while tonka bean contributes a warm, nutty sweetness with hints of vanilla and almond, amplifying the gourmand quality of the tobacco. Ylang-ylang, with its creamy, exotic floral richness, adds a heady, slightly tropical depth, rounding out the fragrance with a sensuous glow. The careful use of synthetics throughout—aldehydes, musks, and tobacco enhancers—ensures that each natural ingredient is amplified without overwhelming, allowing the perfume to maintain clarity, luminosity, and lasting presence.

Overall, Vague Souvenir is an elegant orchestration of contrasts: bright, airy, and effervescent at first; warm, floral-spicy, and evocative in the heart; and richly intimate in the base. The combination of fruity florals with tobacco creates a fragrance that is both tender and sophisticated, like a faint remembrance of a cherished moment, lingering on the skin and in the mind. Guerlain’s artistry lies in balancing the bright, evocative top notes with the opulent, sensual heart and base, crafting a perfume that is simultaneously modern for its time, emotionally resonant, and deeply personal—a fragrance that truly embodies its name, Faint Remembrance.

Journal des Dames et des Modes, 1913:

"Thus, on the subject of perfumes, we learn that the year's new products from the Maison Guerlain are called 'Vague Souvenir', 'Pour Troubler', and 'Kadine'."

Harper's Bazaar, 1956:

"Vague Souvenir" — sweet and sun-blessed as a peach just ready to pluck. By Guerlain. 1/2 ounce, $86.50"

Bottles:

Presented in the quadrilobe bottle (parfum). In the mid to late 1920s, it was presented in the beurre flacon (parfum), created by Baccarat for the 1925 Art Deco Expo in Paris. The label represents the crystal fountain created by Lalique for the expo's Grand Pavilion. Vague Souvenir was also available in the Flacon Capsule (lotion vegetale). It may have also been presented in the Goutte flacon (eau de toilette).

photo by ebay seller katybgood1

Fate of the Fragrance:

Vague Souvenir was launched by Guerlain in 1912, during a period of refinement and artistic innovation in early 20th-century France. Its evocative name, “Faint Remembrance”, captured the imagination of women who sought perfumes that were both intimate and sophisticated—a scent that could linger in memory like the subtle trace of a cherished moment.

The exact date of discontinuation is unknown, but records indicate that Vague Souvenir was still being sold as late as 1960, demonstrating its enduring appeal across nearly five decades. Its longevity on the market reflects Guerlain’s mastery in crafting fragrances that transcended fleeting trends, combining complex floral, fruity, and tobacco notes in a way that remained compelling to successive generations of women.

Over the years, Vague Souvenir continued to be appreciated by those who valued both elegance and emotional resonance in their perfumes. Even after its eventual disappearance from regular production, the fragrance remained a notable example of early 20th-century perfumery, celebrated for its originality, sophistication, and ability to evoke memory and intimacy. Guerlain’s creation stands as a testament to the house’s enduring artistry and its talent for balancing innovation with timeless refinement.

Tsao-Ko c1879

Tsao-Ko by Guerlain, launched in 1879 and reformulated in 1898, occupies a distinctive place in the history of perfume, embodying both refinement and exotic allure. The name Tsao-Ko is derived from the red or black cardamom—a spice known for its smoky, earthy, balsamic, spicy, and subtly sweet aroma. In French, Tsao-Ko is pronounced roughly as “Tsow-Koh”. The name immediately evokes mystery, far-off lands, and the rare treasures of the Orient, conjuring visions of spice markets, exotic gardens, and aromatic adventures that were highly prized in 19th-century Europe.

The late 19th century, when Tsao-Ko was first launched, was a period of fascination with the exotic, fueled by colonial trade, travel, and the burgeoning interest in Oriental arts and cultures. Parisian women of the time were beginning to embrace perfumes that suggested sophistication, refinement, and a touch of daring. A perfume named after an unusual spice would have communicated both novelty and cosmopolitan taste, offering wearers an olfactory experience that was unusual, bold, and highly memorable.

Classified as a powdery oriental fougère, Tsao-Ko was described as having an “original, very accentué” odor—a term that highlights the prominent, striking character of its notes. The fragrance likely featured a blend of earthy and balsamic cardamom, intertwined with powdery floral or woody elements, creating a scent that was simultaneously warm, sophisticated, and audacious. Its oriental undertones would have provided depth and richness, while the fougère aspects—herbal, slightly green, and aromatic—would have given structure and elegance.

In the context of perfumery at the time, Tsao-Ko was not typical; most popular scents favored soft florals, fresh bouquets, or lighter musky chypres. By contrast, Tsao-Ko’s exotic, accentuated character made it highly original, appealing to women who sought a fragrance that stood out, was bold in character, and evoked both luxury and a sense of faraway adventure. It was a statement fragrance—mysterious, alluring, and unmistakably unique.

Parfums Préparés par Condensation:

Tsao-Ko occupied a distinguished place within Guerlain’s “Parfums Préparés par Condensation” series, a carefully curated collection celebrated for its originality, refinement, and character. The term Parfums Préparés par Condensation literally translates to “Perfumes Prepared by Condensation,” referring to a sophisticated extraction method—most often steam distillation—used widely in the 19th and early 20th centuries.

In this process, plant or flower material is exposed to steam, causing the volatile aromatic compounds to evaporate. The vapor is then cooled and condensed back into liquid, producing a concentrated essential oil or aromatic essence. Unlike simpler techniques such as enfleurage or maceration, which rely on absorption or soaking, condensation captures a purer, more complete olfactory profile, preserving subtle nuances and enhancing both richness and longevity. Guerlain’s designation of a fragrance within this series signaled technical mastery, artisanal quality, and olfactory sophistication.

Each perfume in the series conveyed a distinct personality. Le Jardin de Mon Curé was flowery, persistent, and original; Belle France offered a fresh, enduring aroma; while Bouquet Mademoiselle exuded suave elegance. Cyprisine was highly accentué, with its notes intentionally heightened to leave a striking impression, whereas Dix Pétales de Roses was fresh, flowery, and smoothly balanced. Other scents, such as Gavotte and Grande Maréchale, emphasized originality and persistence, while Paris Nouveau and Rodomel showcased charming, sweet, and enduring floral tones. Within this context, Tsao-Ko stood out as particularly accentué, its bold and exotic character immediately recognizable. Violette à Deux Sous was sweet, persistent, and suave, and Young Princess offered a soft, sweet sophistication.

Descriptors like accentué, suave, persistent, and original were not mere flourishes but precise indicators of a fragrance’s personality. An accentué scent emphasizes certain notes to create an immediately memorable presence; suave denotes harmony, polish, and refined elegance without being overpowering; persistent indicates heavier, longer-lasting notes that linger on the skin; and original signifies novelty—a composition inventive and unexpected, reflecting Guerlain’s creative audacity and mastery in crafting perfumes that were both technically exceptional and emotionally evocative. Tsao-Ko, with its smoky, spicy, and powdery oriental fougère profile, epitomized these qualities, leaving an unmistakable mark in the series.

 

Fragrance Composition:

What does it smell like? Tsao-Ko is classified as a powdery oriental fougere fragrance.

• Top notes: rice powder, jasmine, aromatic notes, balsamic notes
• Middle notes: jasmine, rose, cassie, ylang ylang, cardamom, spices
• Base notes: iris, ambrette, oakmoss, Tonkin musk, leather, sandalwood, civet

Scent Profile:

Tsao-Ko by Guerlain, classified as a powdery oriental fougère, opens with an intriguing interplay of delicate, tactile, and aromatic top notes that immediately transport the senses. The rice powder note is soft and airy, reminiscent of finely sifted grains warmed by sun, offering a gentle, powdery veil that frames the initial impression with elegance. The jasmine here is bright and floral, likely evoking the nuanced sweetness of Indian or Egyptian jasmine, which tends to be richer and more opulent than its European counterparts. Alongside these, aromatic notes—green, slightly herbal, and subtly spicy—provide complexity, while balsamic notes lend a warm, resinous undertone, evoking the rich aroma of exotic woods and gentle incense.

The heart of Tsao-Ko blooms with a lush floral ensemble. Jasmine returns, deepening its presence with an almost narcotic richness, harmonizing beautifully with rose, whose fragrance is likely reminiscent of Bulgarian or Turkish roses, prized for their intensity, depth, and velvety nuance. Cassie adds a green, powdery, and slightly vanilla-like nuance, blending naturally with ylang-ylang, whose creamy, tropical scent contributes a subtle exotic sensuality. Cardamom, the namesake inspiration of Tsao-Ko, introduces its signature spicy, smoky, and slightly sweet aroma—a note often sourced from India or Guatemala, where the pods are known for their pronounced richness and aromatic complexity. Additional spices punctuate the floral heart, adding warmth, vibrancy, and a subtle piquancy that balances the softness of the florals.

The base is a sophisticated, lingering foundation. Iris contributes a soft, powdery, and slightly earthy elegance, bringing out the perfume’s refined, lingering character. Ambrette, derived from musk seeds, adds a warm, subtly sweet and musky depth, complementing Tonkin musk, which provides creamy, animalic warmth without overpowering. Oakmoss introduces a dry, slightly forested undertone, reinforcing the fougère aspect of the composition. Leather and sandalwood contribute richness, warmth, and a comforting creaminess, while civet rounds out the fragrance with a subtle, animalic sensuality. Each note, both natural and synthetic, works synergistically: the synthetics enhance longevity and amplify nuances that might otherwise be too fleeting, such as the smokiness of cardamom or the creamy facets of ylang-ylang, while preserving the natural purity and vibrancy of the floral and balsamic elements.

On the skin, Tsao-Ko unfolds like a powdered, exotic tapestry: the airy and soft top notes giving way to a spicy, floral heart, finally settling into a warm, sensual, and enduring oriental base. The fragrance is simultaneously delicate and striking, balancing soft powderiness with exotic spices, and floral opulence with rich musks and woods—an evocative reflection of Guerlain’s mastery in crafting a perfume that is both original and immediately memorable.

Country Life, 1902:

"M. Guerlain who is an authority on all matters relating the uses and abuses of scents says that it is the greatest to imagine that sachet powder perfumes. According to him, the only pleasant way of perfuming "laces, linen and ladies" is with an extract and a vaporiser; nothing else is of any real use. It is also a mistake to adopt one perfume alone, for it is essential not only to vary one's perfume with the seasons, but for every occasion. We do not wear the same dress in the evening as in the morning, in a motor-car, or in the saddle, and a moment's reflection will show that the scent that is agreeable in the open air can be offensive at a dinner-table. If we once study this question, as it should be studied by all women of refined taste, we shall find that we cannot do better than follow the Parisienne, who never favours what are called extracts of flowers - carnation, lilac, mignonette, etc. She has learnt that the majority of these scents are made from petroleum or terpinol, and have nothing in common with the names they bear. Let us follow her in her selection for spring. She chooses "Tsao Ko" or "Jicky" for her perfume for her morning ride in the Bois "Fleur Qui Meurt" for a dinner party, and "Jardin de Mon Curé" for the Opera. If you are passing through the Rue de la Paix, call in at Guerlain's and judge how exquisite is her taste." 

Bottles:

Flacon Ovale, c1900, photo from drouot

Wartime bottle, c1930s-1940s.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Tsao-Ko, launched in 1870, occupied a distinctive place in the world of perfumery as a powdery oriental fougère, immediately recognizable for its bold and accentuated character. This fragrance remained available for decades, continuing to be sold around 1914 and well into the period of World War II, attesting to its enduring appeal and the lasting impression it made on consumers.

Over its long history, Tsao-Ko was admired for its originality and sophistication, standing out in an era when perfumery was expanding beyond traditional floral and citrus compositions. Its longevity on the market reflects the success of Jacques Guerlain’s masterful blending, which combined exotic and familiar elements in a way that felt both luxurious and adventurous. The perfume’s sustained presence throughout tumultuous times underscores its role as a signature Guerlain creation, cherished by connoisseurs for its refinement, persistence, and uniquely accentuated character.

Though the exact date of its discontinuation remains unknown, Tsao-Ko’s reputation as a striking, original scent persisted well beyond its initial release, influencing the direction of oriental and fougère fragrances in the decades that followed. Its historical significance lies not only in its composition but also in its ability to capture the imagination of perfume lovers over a span of more than seventy years.

Parfum des Champs Elysees 1904

Parfum des Champs-Élysées (1904) was created by Jacques Guerlain to honor the soon-to-be-opened Guerlain boutique at 68 Avenue des Champs-Élysées, the most elegant and fashionable boulevard in Paris. The perfume’s name, Parfum des Champs-Élysées — French for “Perfume of the Champs-Élysées” — was chosen to capture the glamour and sophistication of this legendary avenue. Pronounced in simple terms as "par-FAHN day shahn-zay-LEE-zay", the name itself evokes the image of the tree-lined promenade stretching from the Arc de Triomphe to the Place de la Concorde — a place that, even then, symbolized refinement, modernity, and Parisian allure. To the French, “Champs-Élysées” also carries mythic resonance: it literally means “Elysian Fields,” the resting place of heroes in ancient Greek mythology. Thus, Guerlain’s choice of name imbued the fragrance with both contemporary elegance and timeless poetry — a perfume of heaven and earth, where beauty and aspiration meet.

When Parfum des Champs-Élysées was created in 1904, Paris was in the midst of the Belle Époque, a golden age of art, music, and design that spanned from the 1890s to the eve of World War I. It was a time of immense optimism and aesthetic flourish: women wore flowing gowns of silk and lace, their waists cinched and their hats lavishly adorned with plumes and ribbons. The Art Nouveau movement was in full bloom — its curvilinear lines, floral motifs, and organic forms influencing everything from jewelry to architecture. Guerlain’s own flacons of the era reflected these ideals, merging luxury craftsmanship with natural inspiration. Perfumery itself was undergoing transformation: traditional soliflores and simple floral waters were giving way to more complex compositions that combined natural essences with newly discovered synthetics, offering depth, projection, and artistic expression never before possible.

Within this context, Parfum des Champs-Élysées — classified as a green floral woody chypre — would have represented a bold, modern statement. Chypres were still highly popular at the turn of the century, characterized by their contrast between bright citrus top notes and mossy, resinous bases. To the women of 1904, such a perfume would have felt both elegant and daring — a scent that mirrored the confident, cosmopolitan spirit of Parisian society. The “green” and “woody” facets suggested nature refined through urban grace: freshly cut leaves, polished wood, and soft floral tones mingling like the scent of flowers carried on a breeze down the Champs-Élysées after rain.

For the fashionable women of the Belle Époque, a perfume named Parfum des Champs-Élysées would have embodied the very essence of Paris — modern yet romantic, worldly yet poetic. To wear it was to wear the spirit of the avenue itself: a walk among chestnut trees, carriages passing in the golden light, the distant hum of café conversation, and the promise of beauty in every moment. Compared to other fragrances of its time — many of which celebrated single flowers or powdery musks — Guerlain’s creation stood apart for its sophistication and structure. It captured not just a scent, but a place — a symbol of modern luxury and the luminous heart of Parisian life.

Original 1904 Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Parfum des Champs Elysees is classified as a green floral woody chypre fragrance for women.

• Top notes: neroli, violet, lavender, hesperidic notes
• Middle notes: jasmine, orange blossom, rose, violet, orris, sandalwood, patchouli, clove, oakmoss, civet
• Base notes: musk, tuberose, violet

Scent Profile:

To encounter Parfum des Champs-Élysées in its original form is to step into a fragrant tableau of Belle Époque Paris — elegant, luminous, and alive with texture. Classified as a green floral woody chypre, this early Guerlain creation unfolds like a stroll along the famed avenue it celebrates: sunlight filtering through chestnut leaves, the mingling scent of fresh blossoms, and the subtle powder of luxury drifting from passing ladies’ parasols.

The perfume opens with a burst of neroli, violet, lavender, and hesperidic notes — a top accord as effervescent as the Paris morning itself. The neroli, distilled from bitter orange blossoms of the Mediterranean, glows with a honeyed, citrus-sweet lightness rich in linalool and nerolidol, chemicals that lend its luminous floral transparency. Tunisian neroli, known for its slightly green edge, lends vivacity and elegance. The violet, likely expressed through both natural ionones and early synthetic violet compounds, breathes a powdery, tender sweetness that feels both nostalgic and modern — the scent of pressed petals and silk gloves. Lavender introduces its clean herbal freshness, a counterbalance to the sweetness; the French variety, particularly from Provence, is prized for its balance of linalyl acetate and camphor, creating a harmony between smooth floral tones and aromatic coolness. Finally, the hesperidic notes — likely a blend of bergamot, lemon, and orange — lend a sparkling frame to this bouquet, their natural limonene and citral molecules catching the light like facets of a crystal.

As the opening fades, the heart of Parfum des Champs-Élysées blooms fully — a lush garden of jasmine, orange blossom, rose, orris, and a soft reprise of violet, intertwined with the warmth of sandalwood, patchouli, clove, oakmoss, and a whisper of civet. The jasmine, most likely from Grasse, is creamy, indolic, and narcotic, its richness due to benzyl acetate and indole that give it sensual weight. Orange blossom, sharing kinship with neroli, deepens the floral radiance while adding a velvety fullness. Rose — possibly Bulgarian or May rose from Grasse — contributes its characteristic blend of citronellol and geraniol, giving a dewy warmth and romantic depth. The orris root, derived from aged rhizomes of the Florentine iris, adds a luxurious powderiness from its irones, evoking the sensation of finely milled face powder and antique silk. The continuing violet note bridges these florals, softening their brilliance into a hazy, romantic aura.

Supporting this floral tapestry are sandalwood and patchouli, grounding the perfume in an earthy, woody sensuality. Mysore sandalwood — revered for its creamy, milky smoothness — is rich in santalol, a natural fixative that extends the longevity of the floral accord while lending a tactile warmth. The patchouli, with its dark, damp soil character, comes alive through patchoulol and norpatchoulenol, molecules that add dimension and a faint leathery nuance. The clove, vibrant with eugenol, injects a spicy sparkle that brings contrast to the soft florals, while oakmoss, the soul of the chypre, anchors everything in its green, forested depth — slightly damp, mineral, and cool, redolent of moss-covered bark after rain. Civet, used sparingly, imparts an animalic warmth that enhances the natural sensuality of the jasmine and rose, softening their edges and deepening the perfume’s allure. Synthetic musks and fixatives of the early 20th century likely enriched this accord, creating a silken diffusion that made the fragrance both lasting and ethereal.

In the base, musk, tuberose, and a final breath of violet linger on the skin like the fading echo of a waltz. The musk, whether natural or early nitro-musk, imparts a soft, skin-like warmth that fuses the perfume’s many layers. Tuberose, though often lush and overwhelming, here appears in gentle moderation — its methyl salicylate and benzyl benzoate lending creamy depth rather than domination. The violet persists as a recurring signature, ethereal and dreamlike, bridging each stage of the fragrance from sparkling top to powdery close.

Parfum des Champs-Élysées is not simply a perfume, but a portrait — an olfactory rendering of turn-of-the-century Parisian grace. Each material, whether plucked from the sunlit fields of Provence or the shaded groves of Mysore, contributes to an impression of cultivated naturalism — nature refined through art. It is a fragrance that speaks of powdered gloves, silk gowns, and polished parquet floors — elegant, poised, and eternally Parisian, much like the boulevard for which it was named.

Bottles:

The bottle created by Baccarat, known as flacon design no. 284, was designed to hold the extraits of Le Parfum des Champs-Élysées — a fragrance originally composed by Jacques Guerlain to commemorate the opening of Guerlain’s grand new boutique at 68, Avenue des Champs-Élysées in Paris. The store, envisioned as the crown jewel of the Guerlain name, was designed by the celebrated architect Charles Mewes, who also conceived the bottle’s distinctive turtle shape (flacon tortue). The form was chosen with deliberate wit and symbolism: a gentle irony reflecting the slow progress of the boutique’s construction, which began in 1904 but was not completed until 1914. Mewes’s design turned this frustration into elegance — transforming delay into artistry — and the turtle became an emblem of patience, permanence, and refinement, qualities that mirrored Guerlain’s own approach to perfumery.

When the Parfum des Champs-Élysées turtle bottle was sold in 1915, it retailed for an extraordinary $75 — a sum equivalent to roughly $2,411.88 in 2025 when adjusted for inflation. Such a price placed it among the most luxurious perfumes of its time, accessible only to the affluent elite who frequented the Champs-Élysées. Yet, even beyond its cost, the bottle’s charm lay in its wit and symbolism: a perfume meant to celebrate modern Paris, presented in a vessel that playfully acknowledged the slow, deliberate artistry behind its creation. The Baccarat turtle flacon remains one of Guerlain’s most storied designs — a perfect synthesis of humor, heritage, and haute craftsmanship that continues to embody the spirit of the house and the luminous avenue for which it was named.

The Turtle bottle was first presented in a truncated egg-shaped poplar wood case, hinged at one end and covered with red morocco leather, decorated with a tooled oriental scrolling motif. Its interior lined with velvet inside the lid and ivory satin inside of the base which would cradle the bottle. The second presentation echoed the original, but the box was now of rectangular shape, again of poplar wood, covered with red morocco leather, with gold leaf oriental patterns. It was hinged on one end and opened to an ivory satin lined interior.

Other Bottles:

Over the course of the 20th century, Le Parfum des Champs-Élysées was presented in a dazzling array of flacons, each one reflecting the evolving artistry and aesthetic ideals of its era. After its debut in Baccarat’s famed turtle bottle, the fragrance continued to appear in many of Guerlain’s most iconic presentations, a testament to its enduring prestige within the house’s collection.

Beginning in the 1920s, the eau de toilette was offered in the Goutte flacon (introduced in 1923), an elegant, teardrop-shaped bottle that echoed the purity and simplicity of early modern design. The Capsule flacon followed in 1920, used for the Lotion Végétale format — a slender, utilitarian design that reflected the era’s growing interest in freshness and personal grooming. Around the same period, the Petit Beurre flacon (introduced in 1916) appeared, named for its resemblance to the small French butter biscuit, its compact, rounded form lending a touch of domestic charm to Guerlain’s more formal perfume presentations.

During the interwar years, Parfum des Champs-Élysées found new expression in the Borne flacon (used from 1931 into the 1960s) — a sleek, architectural bottle that embodied the streamlined aesthetic of Art Deco. In contrast, during the wartime years, the perfume was housed in the Guerre flacon (1938–1945), whose practical simplicity reflected the austerity of its time, when luxury materials were scarce but Guerlain’s craftsmanship endured. The Montre flacon, introduced in 1936, was designed for the Eau de Cologne version and took its name from its resemblance to a pocket watch, symbolizing both utility and refinement — a perfect blend of masculine precision and Parisian elegance.

With the postwar return to luxury, Guerlain revived Parfum des Champs-Élysées in the sensuous Amphore flacon, first introduced in 1955, whose curving silhouette paid homage to ancient Greek forms while embodying modern femininity. Equally timeless was the Quadrilobe flacon, starting in 1914, whose four-lobed stopper and balanced proportions became one of Guerlain’s most enduring symbols of prestige. It has been used for many of the house’s great perfumes — including Parfum des Champs-Élysées — as a vessel of both elegance and heritage.

At various times, the fragrance was also presented in the exquisite Abeilles flacon, adorned with gilded bees — the imperial emblem of the Napoleonic era and a cherished symbol of the Guerlain house since 1853. Each of these designs tells a part of the perfume’s long story: the adaptability of Guerlain’s artistry, its dialogue with changing tastes, and its continual reverence for craftsmanship. Whether in the restrained beauty of the Capsule, the sculptural lines of the Borne, or the romantic curves of the Amphore, Le Parfum des Champs-Élysées has always been more than a fragrance — it is a reflection of Guerlain’s evolving vision of luxury, Parisian grace, and timeless design.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Le Parfum des Champs-Élysées remained available well into the mid-20th century, with records showing it was still being sold in 1955 — an impressive testament to its lasting appeal more than fifty years after its creation. Few perfumes of the early 1900s endured with such quiet persistence. Its survival through the Belle Époque, two World Wars, and the changing fashions of the interwar and postwar decades speaks to both the timelessness of its composition and its deep emotional resonance within the Guerlain lineage. Even as perfumery evolved toward bolder aldehydic florals and modern chypres, Le Parfum des Champs-Élysées retained a following among those who appreciated its refined, classical elegance — a fragrance that spoke of poise rather than trend.

By 1955, the perfume could still be found in the Amphore flacon, a vessel whose graceful silhouette suited the era’s renewed embrace of femininity and glamour. Guerlain, ever respectful of its heritage, continued to honor this early masterpiece even as new icons like L’Heure Bleue, Mitsouko, and Vol de Nuit defined the brand’s identity. Yet, as Guerlain moved further into the modern age, Le Parfum des Champs-Élysées gradually faded from view — quietly discontinued at an unknown date, likely sometime after the late 1950s.

Its disappearance was not abrupt but rather the natural passing of an era. By the 1960s, perfumery had turned toward new synthetics, lighter structures, and more assertive identities, leaving behind the softly powdered romanticism of earlier decades. Still, Le Parfum des Champs-Élysées remains a bridge to Guerlain’s origins — a perfume that once celebrated the opening of its most famous boutique, that mirrored the optimism of the Belle Époque, and that gracefully endured for half a century. Though its exact end is uncertain, its legacy persists in Guerlain’s history as a quiet symbol of enduring Parisian sophistication — a fragrance born from light, craftsmanship, and the timeless beauty of the Champs-Élysées itself.

1995 Reissue:

In 1995, Le Parfum des Champs-Élysées was reintroduced as a limited edition, a rare tribute to one of Guerlain’s earliest and most emblematic creations. Only 1,300 bottles were produced, each containing 60 ml of extrait and housed in a meticulously crafted replica of the original 1904 Baccarat “turtle” flacon. This reinterpretation paid homage not only to Jacques Guerlain’s perfume but also to the whimsical spirit of Charles Mewes’ design — the turtle shape that had once humorously symbolized the slow progress of the boutique’s construction at 68 Avenue des Champs-Élysées. In this special edition, the timeless silhouette was reborn in fine crystal, preserving every curve and contour of the early 20th-century masterpiece.

Each bottle was presented within an exquisite rectangular poplar wood coffret, sandy beige satin interior, its exterior covered in rich red morocco leather and adorned with delicate gold leaf arabesque detailing. The presentation evoked the grandeur and refinement of Guerlain’s early luxury, recalling the days when perfume was both an olfactory experience and an object of art. The contrast of the deep red leather and shimmering gold echoed the opulence of the Champs-Élysées itself — a street synonymous with Parisian glamour and the house’s enduring prestige.

This 1995 edition was not intended for mass production but for the true connoisseur — a collector’s piece celebrating Guerlain’s storied past. It was a momentary revival, a nod to the craftsmanship and artistry of another era, and a symbol of the brand’s continued reverence for its heritage. Following its brief appearance, the fragrance was again discontinued, leaving behind only a handful of these limited flacons as tangible links between Guerlain’s Belle Époque origins and its modern legacy. Today, these rare bottles stand as coveted treasures — glimmering reminders of a perfume that once embodied the very spirit of Parisian elegance.

Reformulated 1995 Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a woody floral chypre fragrance for women.

• Top notes: bergamot, violet, lavender
• Middle notes: orange blossom, rose, jasmine, tuberose
• Base notes: orris, clove, oakmoss, patchouli, sandalwood, civet, musk

Scent Profile:

The 1995 reformulation of Le Parfum des Champs-Élysées reimagines the grace of the original 1904 composition through a more modern lens — a fragrance that retains the woody floral chypre structure yet feels more polished, luminous, and sensual. While Jacques Guerlain’s turn-of-the-century creation was steeped in the romantic green florals and mossy depths of the Belle Époque, the later version softens its edges, balancing opulence with refinement, and introducing a smoother interplay between natural raw materials and carefully chosen synthetics that enhance texture and longevity.

The opening unfolds with the brisk clarity of bergamot, its sparkling citrus top note offering a burst of light reminiscent of morning sun on Parisian limestone façades. True to Guerlain’s tradition, the bergamot likely hails from Calabria, Italy, renowned for producing the world’s finest variety — richer in linalyl acetate and limonene, giving it a uniquely soft, rounded brightness. This effervescence is tempered by the cool powdery charm of violet, its ionone molecules contributing a wistful, almost nostalgic sweetness that bridges the natural and the abstract — a flower that smells both of petals and imagination. 

Lavender, a hallmark of classical French perfumery, introduces a gentle aromatic tension, its camphoraceous undertone grounding the airy opening. The French variety, particularly from Provence, carries more sweetness than its sharper English counterpart, a result of higher linalool content, which lends a smoother floral transparency. Together, these notes form a refined prelude — fresh yet poised — leading into a heart that reveals the perfume’s enduring romance.

At the center, the composition blossoms into a bouquet of orange blossom, rose, jasmine, and tuberose, each chosen for its voluptuous yet balanced character. The orange blossom, distilled from Tunisian neroli petals, adds a honeyed luminosity — its richness supported by natural linalool and nerolidol, molecules that impart a velvety sheen and floral warmth. Rose, likely a blend of Bulgarian and Turkish absolutes, contributes both the dewy freshness of geraniol and the deep honeyed warmth of citronellol. Its natural complexity is subtly enhanced by modern synthetics such as phenylethyl alcohol, which extends the rose’s tender sweetness beyond its natural volatility. 

Jasmine, with its narcotic indoles, mingles with the creamy decadence of tuberose, whose methyl salicylate and indole notes lend a carnal, fleshy sensuality. In this reformulation, the tuberose appears more restrained than in vintage Guerlain florals — less heavy, more radiant — suggesting the use of reconstituted isolates to preserve clarity without overwhelming the structure. This floral heart evokes the Champs-Élysées in full bloom — elegant, vibrant, and unabashedly feminine, yet never cloying.

As the scent deepens, the base reveals its chypre foundation — both mossy and luminous. Orris, derived from aged Florentine iris rhizomes, lends a powdered, buttery texture rich in ionones and irones, whose cool, violet-like timbre connects back to the fragrance’s opening. Oakmoss anchors the blend with its earthy depth, though in the reformulation, its natural material is carefully balanced with synthetics to comply with modern standards; this modification preserves the dusky, forest-like tone while lightening the overall weight. 

Patchouli adds woody resonance, its Indonesian variety prized for its richness in patchoulol, giving a smooth, balsamic body that harmonizes with the creamy warmth of sandalwood. Guerlain’s sandalwood is likely of Indian origin — once Mysore — renowned for its soft, milky quality, though modern reformulations may combine natural and synthetic forms such as santalol for longevity. A whisper of clove lends spice and depth through eugenol, its warmth seamlessly merging with the animalic hum of civet and musk. These final notes breathe life and sensuality into the composition — not raw or feral as in the early 20th-century style, but polished and intimate, an echo of skin warmed by silk and sunlight.

In comparison to the original 1904 version, the 1995 Parfum des Champs-Élysées feels more linear, smoother, and more luminous — less about earthy greenery and more about the refinement of texture. The older formula leaned heavily into oakmoss, orris, and civet, projecting a stately, aristocratic air. The reformulation, while maintaining its chypre skeleton, softens those sharper contours with polished synthetics and radiant florals, trading density for transparency. It becomes less a Belle Époque garden shrouded in mystery and more a cultivated Parisian boulevard — still elegant, still complex, but touched with the clarity of modern light. The result is a fragrance that honors its heritage while capturing the timeless sophistication of Guerlain’s art — a scent that moves, as the Champs-Élysées itself does, gracefully between past and present.

2008 Reissue:

The 2008 edition of Parfum des Champs-Élysées — translating to Perfume of the Champs-Élysées — stands as one of Guerlain’s rarest modern releases, produced in an edition of only 24 bottles. Conceived as a tribute to the house’s legacy and the grandeur of its flagship at 68 Avenue des Champs-Élysées, this creation represents the seamless dialogue between tradition and modernity that defines Guerlain’s artistry. Though it is said to preserve the same formula as the 1995 version, the 2008 edition subtly reflects the evolution of perfumery materials in the early 21st century, where natural essences were increasingly refined and harmonized through advanced extraction methods and the careful incorporation of new-generation synthetics.

The perfume was presented in a 60ml replica of the historic 1914 Baccarat “Turtle” flacon, a design originally conceived by architect Charles Mewes as a playful nod to the famously slow construction of the Guerlain boutique on the Champs-Élysées. This reissued bottle retained the sculptural beauty and gentle irony of the original — its rounded, domed silhouette suggesting both elegance and patience, a fitting metaphor for Guerlain’s enduring craftsmanship. Each flacon was nestled within an egg-shaped poplar wood coffret, sheathed in red morocco leather and adorned with gold leaf, an exquisite union of color and material chosen to echo the opulence of Guerlain’s early 20th-century presentations. The egg form itself symbolized rebirth and renewal — an apt expression of the perfume’s revival for a new generation of collectors and connoisseurs.

Reformulated 2008 Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a woody floral chypre fragrance for women.

• Top notes: bergamot, violet, lavender
• Middle notes: orange blossom, rose, jasmine, tuberose
• Base notes: orris, clove, oakmoss, patchouli, sandalwood, civet, musk

While the composition mirrored the 1995 reformulation — a woody floral chypre — the 2008 edition revealed subtle shifts in texture and nuance brought on by the use of modern raw materials. Advances in extraction techniques allowed for purer expressions of bergamot, violet, and sandalwood, with reduced allergens and improved stability. The bergamot note was likely rendered softer, less bitter, through molecular distillation, creating a smoother and more luminous opening. The floral heart — jasmine, rose, tuberose, and orange blossom — benefited from the inclusion of refined isolates and synthetic boosters such as Hedione, which imparts radiance and transparency, allowing the bouquet to unfold with an airy elegance. Even the oakmoss and civet — materials heavily restricted by IFRA regulations — were carefully reinterpreted using substitutes that mimic their olfactory depth without their animalic intensity, maintaining the chypre’s essential balance of mossy warmth and sensuality.

In its 2008 incarnation, Parfum des Champs-Élysées became less an echo of the past and more a living homage — the same melody performed on a modern instrument. Its soul remained true to the refined Parisian spirit of the original, yet it carried the clarity, precision, and restraint characteristic of contemporary perfumery. The result was not merely a recreation, but a reinterpretation: a fragrance that shimmered with the memory of the Belle Époque while speaking in the refined, polished language of the 21st century — as rare and radiant as the city avenue from which it draws its name.

2014 Edition:

In 2014, Guerlain celebrated a dual milestone: the centenary of its iconic boutique at 68 Avenue des Champs-Élysées and the 100th anniversary of Le Parfum des Champs-Élysées. To mark this historic occasion, the house produced an exceptionally rare reissue of the Baccarat Turtle flacon, modeled after the 1914 design but presented in the egg-shaped poplar wood box first used in 2008. The exterior of the box was clad in sumptuous red morocco leather, echoing the elegance and vibrancy of the Champs-Élysées itself, while the interior was lined with soft burgundy suede, cradling the crystal flacon in a tactile cocoon of luxury. 

Every detail — from the gentle curve of the turtle shell to the precision of the wood and leatherwork — underscored Guerlain’s mastery in marrying artistry with functional design. The flacon itself was filled with an astonishing 490 ml of extrait, an extraordinary quantity for any perfume, signaling both generosity and grandeur. This immense volume magnified the perfume’s presence, allowing the rich, woody floral chypre composition to unfold in opulent depth. True to the 2008 edition, the formula retained the refined balance of citrus, bergamot, violet, tuberose, oakmoss, vanilla, and amber, interpreted through modern raw materials and synthetics that preserved the classic Guerlain character while conforming to contemporary IFRA regulations. The combination of natural elegance and modern safety created a fragrance that was at once timeless and contemporary — luminous yet grounded, delicate yet expansive.

This edition was extremely limited: only 27 examples were ever produced, elevating it from a perfume to a collector’s treasure, a ceremonial objet d’art that simultaneously celebrated heritage and innovation. The interplay of crystal, leather, wood, and suede transformed the experience of unveiling the perfume into an event, where the senses were engaged visually, tactilely, and olfactorily. In essence, the 2014 release was not merely a fragrance but a statement — a living monument to a century of Guerlain craftsmanship, the elegance of Parisian perfumery, and the enduring legacy of the Champs-Élysées itself. Each bottle was a reminder that perfume can be both an art form and a vessel of history, embodying a hundred years of Parisian sophistication and the meticulous care of one of the world’s most storied houses.