Spiritueuse Double Vanille c2007

Spiritueuse Double Vanille by Guerlain, launched in 2007 as part of the exclusive L’Art et la Matière collection, is more than a perfume—it is a hymn to the warmth of memory, the intoxication of craftsmanship, and the mystique of true vanilla. The name itself is French: Spiritueuse (pronounced “spee-ree-tyuhz”) meaning “spirited” or “spirituous,” suggesting alcohol, essence, or something that uplifts and enlivens; and Double Vanille (pronounced “doo-bluh vah-nee”) meaning “double vanilla.” Together, the name evokes an image of a richly concentrated elixir—a heady, luxurious essence of vanilla amplified to its fullest expression. It conjures sensations of deep amber light, fine cognac, and sun-warmed wood, blending sensuality with spiritual reverence.

When Guerlain released this fragrance, the world was emerging from the minimalist transparency of the 1990s into a more indulgent, sensory era. The mid-2000s marked a return to richness in perfumery—a period when niche and artisanal scents began to challenge the conventions of mainstream perfumery. Fashions were luxurious yet understated: satin, lace, and metallic hues dominated runways, while fragrance lovers sought authenticity and depth. Spiritueuse Double Vanille arrived as a counterpoint to fleeting, fruity florals—it was introspective, romantic, and unapologetically rich. For women and men alike, it represented warmth, comfort, and sophistication—a scent that felt both intimate and timeless.

To interpret Spiritueuse Double Vanille in scent is to imagine liquid gold steeped in aged wood and ambered light. The fragrance opens with the gentle heat of pink peppercorns, their rosy sparkle adding brightness and lift to what might otherwise be a purely gourmand beginning. The pepper’s piperine molecules create a subtle, tingling warmth—an aromatic prelude that recalls the gentle burn of spiced rum. This leads into the heart, where rose and ylang-ylang unfold like silken petals on skin. The rose, likely Turkish or Bulgarian, carries a honeyed depth from its citronellol and geraniol components, while ylang-ylang from the Comoros or Madagascar contributes its creamy, narcotic floralcy—rich in benzyl acetate and p-cresyl methyl ether, giving a sensation of molten gold and tropical languor. These florals are not sweet in the conventional sense; rather, they expand and illuminate the vanilla at the center, like candlelight glowing through amber glass.

At its core lies the heart of the perfume—Madagascar vanilla, dark, boozy, and luscious. The vanilla orchid (Vanilla planifolia) is a marvel of nature and human ingenuity. Native to Mexico but hand-pollinated on islands such as Madagascar and Réunion, it yields beans that are slow-cured for months until they develop their signature aroma—a blend of vanillin, coumarin, anisaldehyde, and traces of guaiacol. These natural molecules give vanilla its dual nature: warm and comforting, yet carnal and smoky. Guerlain’s “double” vanilla effect is achieved by layering natural vanilla absolute with vanillin and other synthetic facets, enhancing its roundness and depth while adding a dry, slightly woody tone that prevents it from becoming cloying.

The base is where Spiritueuse Double Vanille achieves its serene majesty. Cedarwood lends its linear, resinous clarity—rich in cedrol and thujopsene, evoking the scent of aged barrels and fine tobacco. Benzoin from Laos deepens the composition with its balsamic sweetness, its benzoic acid and vanillin-like molecules echoing the main theme and binding all elements together with a golden resinous sheen. Finally, incense threads through the base, a whisper of sacred smoke that balances the gourmand warmth with a sense of transcendence. The result is an olfactory chiaroscuro—where sweetness meets shadow, sensuality meets serenity.

In the context of 2007, Spiritueuse Double Vanille stood apart. While gourmand notes had been popular since the early 1990s, none had achieved this level of refinement and emotional depth. Where other vanilla perfumes were playful or confectionary, Guerlain’s creation was soulful and mature—an aromatic meditation. The name, the story, and the craftsmanship all reflected the brand’s heritage of sensual luxury and poetic storytelling.

To wear Spiritueuse Double Vanille is to inhabit warmth itself: a silk shawl scented with smoke and sugar, a glass of fine rum beside a flickering fire, a memory of love sealed in amber. It is a fragrance that transforms vanilla from comfort to art—a spirituous double distillation of nostalgia and passion.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Spiritueuse Double Vanille is classified as an oriental fragrance for women.

• Top notes: pink peppercorn and bergamot
• Middle notes: spices, ylang-ylang, cedar and Bulgarian rose
• Base notes: ambergris accord, benzoin, vanilla and incense

Scent Profile:

Spiritueuse Double Vanille unfolds like an amber tapestry woven with gold thread—each note a layer of warmth, smoke, and sweetness that feels both ancient and indulgently modern. As you first breathe it in, the opening greets you with a shimmer of pink peppercorn, its rosy hue immediately bright and lively. The tiny pepper berries from Réunion or Madagascar release a burst of piperine and linalool, molecules that lend a subtle, spicy sparkle. The scent tingles softly on the skin—effervescent and slightly fruity, reminiscent of crushed berries soaked in sunlight. Alongside it, bergamot from Calabria unfurls with its characteristic green luminosity. This Italian citrus, prized for its uniquely balanced ratio of linalyl acetate and limonene, lends a crisp, radiant freshness that acts as a glimmering prelude to the deeper story to come. The top is both bright and mysterious—a golden doorway leading into shadowed warmth.

As the first notes settle, the heart of the fragrance begins to glow with an enveloping sensuality. A soft veil of spices—cardamom’s cool camphorous breath, a hint of clove-like warmth, perhaps a trace of cinnamon—adds dimension and rhythm, like the pulse of exotic markets and aged barrels. Then comes ylang-ylang, one of the stars of the composition. Harvested from the Comoros or Madagascar, this tropical flower is renowned for its voluptuous, creamy scent. Rich in benzyl acetate, p-cresyl methyl ether, and linalool, it possesses both narcotic floral sweetness and an undercurrent of warm spice. In Spiritueuse Double Vanille, ylang-ylang drapes itself like silk across the composition, softening the intensity of the spices while amplifying the perfume’s golden warmth.

Next, Bulgarian rose blooms with regal grace—velvety, deep, and slightly honeyed. Bulgarian rose oil, distilled from Rosa damascena, is treasured for its layered complexity, which comes from its wealth of citronellol, geraniol, and phenylethyl alcohol. These molecules give it a multifaceted aroma that shifts between fresh petals, ripe fruit, and dew-kissed warmth. The rose acts as the emotional heart of the fragrance—romantic yet dignified, its softness balancing the richness of the vanilla to come. Threaded through these petals is cedar, dry and refined, its pencil-shaving clarity grounding the floral sweetness. Cedrol and thujopsene within the cedar add texture, evoking polished wood and the faint smoke of an open hearth.

The base—deep, lingering, and reverent—is where Spiritueuse Double Vanille truly lives up to its name. Vanilla from Madagascar forms the soul of the composition: dark, resinous, and intoxicating. The beans, hand-pollinated and cured under tropical sun, release an aroma rich in vanillin, coumarin, and anisaldehyde. These molecules lend the vanilla its complex character—warm, slightly woody, and infused with an almost rum-like sweetness. To enhance its natural depth, Guerlain layers the natural absolute with synthetic vanillin and ethyl vanillin, amplifying the creamy richness while giving it greater projection and longevity.

Supporting the vanilla is benzoin from Laos, its balsamic sweetness rounding out the perfume with a resinous, ambered warmth. Containing benzoic acid and vanillin-like compounds, benzoin acts as a bridge—binding the smoky and sweet elements into one seamless whole. Ambergris accord, recreated through synthetics such as ambroxan, lends a whisper of oceanic depth—a salty, animalic smoothness that gives the composition its sensual persistence. Finally, incense curls through the air like a thin trail of smoke, its sacred tone tempering the gourmand richness with solemn grace. Its olibanol and octyl acetate molecules contribute that signature cool, resinous hush that seems to lift the sweetness heavenward.

Smelling Spiritueuse Double Vanille is like tracing a journey through light and shadow. The bergamot sparkles, the florals glow, the woods smolder, and the vanilla hums like warm skin kissed by sunlight. The natural materials—each from a place where craft and climate converge perfectly—intertwine with modern synthetics to form something transcendent. It is not merely a vanilla perfume, but an olfactory spirit—at once carnal and sacred, intimate and infinite—a fragrance that embodies warmth, devotion, and the soul of Guerlain’s artistry.

Bottles:

original SDV bottle

SDV bottle as of 2011.

Current SDV bottle

Foin Coupe c1850

Foin Coupé by Guerlain, launched in 1850 and likely crafted in the 1830s, draws its evocative name from the French phrase meaning "cut hay." This name captures a vivid pastoral scene, conjuring the image of freshly harvested hay fields with their crisp, green, and slightly sweet aroma. The term "Foin Coupé" embodies the rustic charm and the sensory pleasure associated with the countryside at harvest time. By evoking the essence of new mown hay, the name suggests a fragrance that is both fresh and intimately connected to nature.

The olfactory interpretation of Foin Coupé would center around this imagery. The scent would likely open with vibrant, green notes reminiscent of freshly cut grass and hay, carrying a hint of the sweetness and dryness of sun-dried hay. This would appeal to both men and women of the time who were drawn to fragrances that mirrored the natural world and evoked a sense of pastoral tranquility.

During the 19th century, the popularity of Foin Coupé (Guerlain also released in English as "New Mown Hay") reflects a broader trend in perfumery of incorporating natural elements into scent compositions. Fragrances of this period often sought to capture the essence of nature, blending floral and green notes with a touch of the animalic to create depth. The use of natural extracts, infusions, and tinctures was common, but as the century progressed, the inclusion of synthetics like coumarin in the 1896 reformulation allowed for a more consistent and long-lasting representation of these natural scents.

In the context of other fragrances available at the time, New Mown Hay stands out for its distinct approach. While many perfumes were focusing on rich, floral, and exotic notes, Guerlain's choice to craft a scent around the more humble and earthy aroma of cut hay offered a refreshing contrast. This innovative approach highlighted a growing appreciation for authenticity in scent and a deepened connection to the natural world, marking Foin Coupé as both a product of its time and a unique departure from prevailing trends.

 

New Mown Hay emerged as a quintessential fragrance of the 19th century, resonating with the pastoral elegance and rustic charm of its namesake. During this period, like Guerlain, nearly every perfumery boasted their own rendition of this scent, reflecting its widespread appeal and significance. The perfume's formulation, detailed in numerous perfumery manuals and pharmacopeias, combined floral notes with subtle animalic undertones, capturing the essence of freshly cut hay.

Initially crafted using natural extracts, infusions, absolutes, and tinctures, New Mown Hay would have conveyed a rich, multifaceted aroma reminiscent of sun-drenched fields. These ingredients aimed to evoke the crisp, green scent of newly harvested hay, blended with floral notes to enrich the fragrance's complexity. However, as the 19th century progressed, the introduction of synthetic compounds transformed the perfume industry. In 1896, New Mown Hay was reformulated to incorporate coumarin, a synthetic essence isolated in 1868 and known for its hay-like scent. This innovation enhanced the perfume's longevity and consistency, marking a significant shift in fragrance composition and demonstrating the era's growing embrace of synthetic materials alongside traditional natural ingredients.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a sweet, woodsy floral fragrance for men and women. It had notes of new mown hay, herbal notes, tonka, sweet woodruff.

• Top notes: bergamot, rose geranium, neroli, lavender
• Middle notes: herbs, moss rose, orris, clove, sweet woodruff, almond
• Base notes: tonka bean, musk, benzoin, vanilla, styrax, sandalwood, patchouli, oakmoss

The scent of new mown hay has always been a favorite in perfumery. Foin Coupé as it is known in France, evokes the fresh hay cut during a sunny day. Like an open window, this scent recalls sun-drenched summer days. It is made up of different herbs and wild flowers. The fragrance of new mown hay usually has to be made synthetically. The sweetness comes from coumarin, an aromatic lactone being present in several grasses, sweet vernal grass and bison grass, for instance. The coumarin is glycosidically bound in the green plants but is liberated upon withering of the grass.

In perfumery, the "new mown hay" scent is almost an archetype. Based on coumarin (and analogues), and often supplemented with mossy and green nuances, this odor complex enters a multitude of fragrances. Actually coumarin was one of the first perfumery ingredients to be made by organic synthesis. Coumarin was created by William Perkin of England in 1868, an important aroma-chemical which has a hay-like aroma with coconut under tones, however it is banned as a food additive in the United States due to toxicity; is used to produce anti-coagulant medicines, rat poison, a valuable component of incense and perfumes. Coumarin is a fine white crystal that smells like new mown hay. It gives a mild powdery sweet hay note and a great deal of volume and fullness to a perfume. Tonka bean contains a lot of coumarin and smells similar.

An early perfumery masterpiece utilizing synthetic coumarin was Fougère Royale by Houbigant, launched in 1882. Houbigant combined the sweet scent of Coumarin with lavender, citrus and woody notes. It is this basic structure that defines a Fougere. Guerlain created Jicky in 1889 which was their first scent using coumarin.

Hay Absolute: Of the genus foin coupe. The term Hay in this place refers to the type of 'new mown hay.' ; has been used for perfume base creations for many decades; the aroma is powerful and extremely sweet, quite diffusive, coumarin-like and faintly herbaceous, very uniform and tenacious. Used in perfumery not only in 'new mown hay' bases, or in combination with flouve, melilot, tonka, woodruff, deertongue, etc., but also as an individual note to be introduced whenever a truly herbaceous sweet under tone is required.
 

Scent Profile:

Foin Coupe is a fragrance that captures the essence of a sunlit meadow after the harvest, blending sweet and woodsy notes to create a sophisticated olfactory experience.

The top notes of Foin Coupe introduce a bright and invigorating scent profile. As you first encounter this fragrance, you are greeted by the sparkling citrus freshness of bergamot. It’s as if you’ve just walked into a lush garden, with the bergamot’s zesty aroma lifting your spirits. Intertwined with this is the delicate, slightly rosy fragrance of rose geranium, offering a subtle floral touch that is both calming and uplifting. Neroli adds a layer of sweet, citrusy depth, reminiscent of orange blossoms in full bloom, while lavender infuses the scent with its soothing, herbaceous quality, conjuring images of sun-drenched fields and tranquil relaxation.

As the fragrance evolves, the middle notes unfold, revealing a rich tapestry of herbal and floral elements. The scent of fresh herbs brings a green, slightly medicinal edge, evoking the aroma of an herb garden on a warm day. Moss rose introduces a gentle, velvety floral note, adding a touch of sophistication. Orris root, with its soft, powdery essence, creates a subtle, luxurious backdrop. The warm, spicy aroma of clove mingles with the sweet, green fragrance of sweet woodruff, reminiscent of freshly mown hay and grassy fields. Almond introduces a creamy, nutty nuance that enhances the fragrance’s overall sweetness, reminiscent of freshly cut hay mixed with a hint of nutty warmth.

The base notes of Foin Coupe anchor the fragrance with a complex, woodsy sweetness. Tonka bean delivers a rich, vanilla-like aroma with subtle hints of spice, adding depth and warmth. Musk provides a sensual, animalic undertone, while benzoin’s resinous sweetness creates a comforting, balsamic quality. Vanilla and styrax together evoke the richness of a warm, sunlit day, with a creamy, sweet aroma that lingers enticingly. Sandalwood offers a smooth, creamy woodiness, adding a touch of earthiness, while patchouli contributes a rich, musky depth. Oakmoss ties the composition together with its earthy, forest-like quality, evoking the scent of damp woodland and the natural richness of the earth.

Overall, Foin Coupe presents a harmonious blend of sweet, woodsy, and floral notes, creating a fragrance that is both inviting and complex, embodying the serene beauty of the countryside and the elegance of a well-crafted perfume.

Bottle:

Presented in the Carre flacon.

Fate of the Fragrance:

It was reformulated in 1896 to include the newly discovered synthetic essence coumarin. Discontinued, date unknown.  John Lloyd Clayton: "Not sure the exact date that it was discontinued, but it must have been available through the late 1940's, as Tennessee Williams mentions it (and Mouchoir de Monsieur) in a letter written to Carson McCullers in 1948. He mentions being in London but plans to pick bottles of each of those when he is "passing through Paris." You can find the reference on page 202 in the Selected Letters, vol. 2."

Secret Intention 2000

Secret Intention by Guerlain, launched as a limited edition for Valentine’s Day in 2000, was a fragrance that perfectly captured the mood of its era—one of quiet sensuality, emotional depth, and sophisticated allure. The phrase carries layers of meaning. “Secret” evokes something hidden, private, or intimate—something not meant for all eyes or ears—while “Intention” suggests purpose, desire, or the will to act. Together, the words form an alluring paradox: an unspoken desire, a thought concealed yet powerfully felt. It implies intimacy and mystery, the sort of quiet, knowing sensuality that does not announce itself but is unmistakably present. The title alone evokes images of dimly lit rooms, whispered promises, and fleeting glances that say more than words ever could.

When Guerlain released Secret Intention, the world was entering a new millennium—a period defined by optimism, technological innovation, and a renewed fascination with luxury and self-expression. In perfumery, the late 1990s and early 2000s were dominated by clean, sheer fragrances, transparent florals, and tea-based accords. The decade prior had been marked by the opulence and power of 1980s perfumes—think of bold, aldehydic florals and musky orientals—but by the turn of the century, women were gravitating toward subtler, more personal scents that felt modern and introspective. Minimalist design, sheer fabrics, and fresh, luminous beauty were the prevailing fashion ideals. This was the time of Gucci by Tom Ford, Calvin Klein’s Truth, and Bvlgari’s Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert—all emphasizing quiet sensuality rather than overt seduction.

Within this context, Secret Intention represented Guerlain’s interpretation of the modern woman—elegant, intelligent, and emotionally complex. The fragrance’s structure reflected this duality: a woody floral composition with an original tea and jasmine accord, enlivened by cardamom and coriander. The tea note, airy yet substantial, symbolized introspection and calm—a private moment of reflection. Jasmine, the eternal symbol of femininity and sensuality, added warmth and carnal depth, while the spices gave it a playful edge, a touch of unpredictability. Cardamom lent a silken coolness with its green, aromatic facets, while coriander introduced an almost peppery brightness that danced across the floral heart. Together, they created a perfume that felt both intimate and confident—modern femininity distilled.

For women of 2000, a perfume called Secret Intention would have felt like a whisper of empowerment. It spoke to the allure of the inner life—the idea that seduction did not require drama or bold display but could instead be quiet, deliberate, and deeply personal. The scent would have appealed to those who preferred subtle sophistication over ostentation, aligning perfectly with the understated glamour of the early 2000s.

In comparison to its contemporaries, Secret Intention both aligned with and elevated prevailing trends. Its transparency and tea-jasmine structure echoed the modern minimalism popularized by brands like Bvlgari and Kenzo, yet its Guerlain signature—refined balance, sensual warmth, and the subtle inclusion of spices—gave it greater emotional depth. While many fragrances of the time leaned toward the purely clean or aquatic, Secret Intention added intrigue and emotion. It was a fragrance of quiet power—not a loud declaration of love, but a soft confession only meant for one’s intended.

In essence, Guerlain’s Secret Intention was more than a perfume; it was a message wrapped in scent—a reflection of the private, nuanced ways women of the new millennium were learning to express their desires.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Secret Intention is classified as a floral fragrance for women.

• Top notes: coriander, Ceylon tea, Calabrian bergamot, cardamom and lemon
• Middle notes: May peony, jasmine and neroli
• Base notes: sandalwood, tonka bean and vanilla

Scent Profile:

When first uncapped, Secret Intention releases an aura that feels both private and magnetic—like a quiet breath of confidence and desire. The opening is bright yet nuanced, where every note unfolds like a whispered thought. Calabrian bergamot comes first, sparkling and luminous. Harvested from the sun-warmed coast of Calabria in southern Italy, this bergamot is among the world’s finest, prized for its balance of sweetness and tartness. Its essential oil brims with linalyl acetate and limonene, molecules that lend the scent its citrusy lift and effervescent freshness. This natural radiance is subtly polished by synthetics that accentuate its sheen—giving it a clean, almost transparent glow, like sunlight refracted through crystal. Alongside it, lemon adds sharper clarity and an acidic gleam, its citral-rich essence slicing through the air like the first inhale of morning light.

Then, the perfume takes an unexpected turn—Ceylon tea, deep and serene, rises from beneath the citrus. Originating from the mist-covered highlands of Sri Lanka, this tea note carries earthy tannins, smoky dryness, and a quiet astringency that anchors the brightness above. Naturally rich in ionones and phenolic compounds, tea’s scent bridges the gap between freshness and warmth, offering a contemplative calm. Coriander seed follows, its warm, nutty undertone touched with citrus. It lends a silken spice—its linalool-rich aroma soft yet slightly woody, imparting both liveliness and sophistication. Interwoven with it, cardamom from India glimmers with a cool, aromatic sweetness. Containing cineole and terpinyl acetate, it contributes a delicate tension—an invigorating contrast between green brightness and sensual warmth. The effect of these spices is quietly seductive, like a faint pulse beneath a composed exterior, suggesting the hidden depth behind the perfume’s name.

As the top notes settle, May peony begins to bloom—a soft, rosy floral that feels freshly gathered from a spring garden. This flower, native to Europe and named for its ephemeral season, offers a tender, almost dewy scent that seems to hover just above the skin. It is supported by jasmine, the heart and soul of sensual femininity. Guerlain often favored jasmine from Grasse, prized for its creamy, indolic richness, but here it’s used more gently—its benzyl acetate and indole molecules balanced with transparency, evoking white petals kissed by morning light. Neroli, distilled from the blossoms of the bitter orange tree, adds a luminous green shimmer. Sourced from Tunisia or Calabria, its scent is uniquely bittersweet—rich in linalool and nerolidol, molecules that bring a honeyed softness with an edge of herbaceous zest. Together, these flowers form the emotional core of the perfume: elegant, modern, and quietly romantic.

The base of Secret Intention reveals the warmth that was only hinted at before. Sandalwood—most likely from Australia or India—emerges smooth and creamy, its santalols providing a soft, velvety texture that lingers like a second skin. This note gives the composition its emotional anchor: serenity, confidence, and depth. Then comes tonka bean, with its coumarin-rich aroma of almond and hay. This natural compound softens the edges, blending the florals and woods into a warm, caressing sweetness. Finally, vanilla unfurls—a Guerlain signature. Derived from Madagascar pods rich in vanillin and heliotropin, it envelops the fragrance with a tender sensuality, deepened by modern synthetics that amplify its creamy warmth without heaviness.

Together, these ingredients tell a story in scent: a dance between light and shadow, candor and mystery. The brightness of citrus and spice recalls the outward composure of a confident woman, while the tea, flowers, and creamy woods beneath reveal her inner warmth and intention—unspoken yet deeply felt. Secret Intention lives up to its name: it is not a fragrance that declares itself, but one that invites discovery, lingering like a secret shared between two hearts.

Bottle:

 It was presented in a clear rounded bottle accented with gold-tone “claws,” holding 1 oz of Eau de Toilette. 

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown.  

Ylang Ylang c1879

Launched around 1879, Ylang Ylang by Guerlain reflects the 19th-century fascination with exotic botanicals and tropical flora. The perfume takes its name directly from the ylang-ylang tree (Cananga odorata), native to the islands of Southeast Asia. In layman’s terms, “Ylang Ylang” is pronounced ee-lahng ee-lahng, and the name itself evokes images of lush tropical gardens, golden blossoms hanging heavy on fragrant branches, and a warm, sultry breeze carrying their scent. To contemporary Parisians of the late 1800s, the word would have conjured fantasies of faraway lands, luxury, and the refined pleasure of indulging in exotic aromas—a perfect reflection of Guerlain’s commitment to crafting perfumes that combined elegance with a sense of adventure.

The perfume was launched during a period of intense interest in global exploration, colonial trade, and scientific discovery. European fashion and luxury culture were in the late Belle Époque, a time known for opulent fabrics, lavish social gatherings, and an enthusiasm for perfumes that could transport the wearer beyond the ordinary. Women of the era, embracing femininity, elegance, and subtle sensuality, would have been drawn to a fragrance called “Ylang Ylang” as both a statement of sophistication and a hint of exotic allure. The name alone suggests sweetness, sensuality, and the natural richness of the tropics—a perfume that whispers of golden sunsets and velvety petals.

From a compositional standpoint, Ylang Ylang perfumes of the 19th century were often based on mixed blends designed to evoke the fresh, heady aroma of tropical yellow blossoms. Guerlain would have utilized natural ylang ylang extracts, absolutes, and tinctures, emphasizing the flower’s creamy, slightly fruity facets and its warm, jasmine-like depth. Early formulations may also have included supporting florals such as jasmine or tuberose to amplify its richness. By the end of the century, synthetic ingredients like coumarin, vanillin, linalool, benzyl acetate, and musk xylene were sometimes introduced to enhance longevity, intensity, and clarity, while preserving the natural charm of the ylang ylang. These synthetics allowed the perfume to maintain its exotic freshness over hours, creating a balanced composition that was both opulent and wearable.

In the context of the market, Guerlain’s Ylang Ylang fit within the broader popularity of tropical flower perfumes, yet it stood out for its refinement and craftsmanship. While other perfumers experimented with ylang ylang, Guerlain’s approach combined scientific precision, artistry, and a subtle layering of supporting notes that created a scent both modern and timeless. Women of the era would have experienced it as a floral statement of elegance, capturing the exotic, the luxurious, and the subtly erotic all in one fragrant impression.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Ylang Ylang is classified as a floral oriental fragrance.

• Top notes: neroli, orange blossom, lemon, cassie, sweet orange
• Middle notes: ylang ylang, rose, jasmine, jonquil, tuberose
• Base notes: musk, benzoin, orris, tonka bean, vanilla, civet

Scent Profile:

Ylang Ylang by Guerlain opens with a radiant, sunlit top layer that immediately awakens the senses. Neroli, harvested from the blossoms of the bitter orange trees of Southern Italy, exudes a luminous, green-floral sweetness, rich in linalool and linalyl acetate, giving the perfume a crisp, sparkling vibrancy. Interwoven with neroli is orange blossom, sourced traditionally from Tunisia or Morocco, offering its soft, honeyed floral aroma, slightly indolic, providing depth to the opening. Lemon, with its bright limonene-rich zest, cuts through the richer florals, imparting a sparkling freshness that is both uplifting and invigorating. Cassie, the delicate yellow acacia flower, contributes a powdery, almost almond-like nuance, softening the citrus brilliance. Sweet orange, more rounded and warm than the lemon, balances the top notes with gentle juiciness, creating a radiant, citrus-floral introduction evocative of sun-drenched Mediterranean groves.

The heart blooms into a lush, tropical bouquet that feels both opulent and intoxicating. Ylang ylang, traditionally harvested from Madagascar or the Comoros, delivers a narcotic sweetness that is simultaneously creamy, floral, and slightly exotic, rich in benzyl acetate, geraniol, and linalool. Its presence is immediately enveloping, imparting an exotic warmth to the composition. Rose, often Damask or Bulgarian, unfurls with velvety elegance, its phenylethyl alcohol and citronellol lending a fresh yet deeply romantic floral character. Jasmine adds a heady, creamy floral intensity, balancing the sweet, slightly green notes of jonquil, a delicate yellow narcissus. Tuberose, with its rich, opulent, and slightly animalic aroma, enhances the heart’s depth and sensuality. Together, the middle notes create a flowering garden at its peak, evoking tropical evenings heavy with scent, where each petal releases a distinct, intoxicating aroma.

The base settles into a warm, sensual foundation that lingers long after the initial bloom has faded. Musk provides a soft, enveloping warmth, enhancing the perfume’s sensual aura. Benzoin, sourced from Siam, contributes a balsamic sweetness, its vanillin-like aroma complementing both the floral and gourmand elements. Orris root, cultivated primarily in Italy, lends a powdery, violet-like softness that adds refinement and creaminess. Tonka bean, rich in coumarin, offers a subtle almonded warmth that bridges the florals and woods seamlessly. Vanilla, with its creamy sweetness, enriches the oriental depth, enhancing the perfume’s warmth and softness. Finally, civet, either natural or synthetically reproduced, imbues a subtle animalic, skin-like sensuality that anchors the fragrance and intensifies its intimate, enveloping character.

The combination of these ingredients—citrus from the Mediterranean, exotic ylang ylang from Madagascar, rich florals from Europe, and warm orientals—creates a harmonious floral oriental masterpiece. Guerlain’s judicious use of natural absolutes alongside synthetic enhancers ensures that each note is not only discernible but elevated, allowing the fragrance to remain luminous, exotic, and timeless. Ylang Ylang is a perfume that simultaneously evokes sunlight, lush tropical gardens, and intimate elegance, inviting the wearer into a world of refined, sensual beauty.

Bottle:

Presented in the Carre flacon.

 

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown.

La Cologne Du Parfumeur c2010

La Cologne Du Parfumeur by Guerlain, launched in 2010, is a modern reinterpretation of the classical eau de cologne, designed for both women and men. The name, La Cologne Du Parfumeur, translates from French as “The Perfumer’s Cologne” (pronounced la koh-lon dy par-fuh-mur), evoking intimacy, craftsmanship, and personal artistry. It conjures the image of a master perfumer in his laboratory, thoughtfully blending citrus and green notes in a quiet, contemplative moment—a reflection of Thierry Wasser’s own description that he created this cologne for himself, as a personal, relaxing project alongside his work on Idylle. The words suggest elegance, discretion, and a refined simplicity, an homage to the classic colognes of the 19th and early 20th centuries while maintaining a contemporary sensibility.

The fragrance opens with an effervescent and luminous burst of citrus. The Italian bergamot sparkles with its natural limonene, providing a crisp, tangy brightness, while the sweet orange and orange blossom, harvested from Calabria, Italy, introduce a delicate floral sweetness. The orange blossom is particularly gentle, with green, crisp facets that lend a dewy freshness reminiscent of a Mediterranean orchard at sunrise. Lemon adds a sparkling, energetic accent, lifting the composition with a natural zing. The top notes immediately convey a feeling of vibrancy, cleanliness, and understated elegance—classic traits of the traditional eau de cologne reimagined for the modern wearer.

At its heart, the fragrance reveals subtle green and aromatic facets. A whisper of orange blossom continues to bloom, harmonizing with soft, green nuances that evoke freshly crushed leaves and herbaceous serenity. These green, almost vegetal tones balance the sweetness of the citrus, creating a sense of natural freshness that is simultaneously intimate and invigorating. The composition is elegantly simple yet nuanced, emphasizing the clarity and refinement of each note.

The base is rounded by musky undertones that provide intimacy and modernity. Soft musks add a lingering warmth and a subtle animalic quality, enhancing the natural vibrancy of the citrus and green notes while anchoring the fragrance on the skin. This musky foundation ensures the cologne does not feel fleeting, giving it depth and personality without overwhelming the airy, luminous character of the composition. The subtle inclusion of musks distinguishes it from classical colognes, giving it a contemporary twist that feels both personal and approachable.

Housed in a signature Guerlain bottle adorned with 69 bee motifs, La Cologne Du Parfumeur reflects the brand’s imperial heritage while celebrating craftsmanship. The cologne can be customized with gold detailing and personal initials, emphasizing its bespoke, artisanal quality. In 2010, amid a trend of fresh, unisex fragrances and a revival of classic cologne styles, this fragrance stood out for its refinement, intimacy, and green-musky originality. It offered a modern twist on a traditional form, combining elegance and casual sophistication, appealing to both men and women who appreciate freshness with subtle complexity—a true “perfumer’s” expression captured in a bottle.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? La Cologne Du Parfumeur is classified as a citrus aromatic fragrance for women and men. Unlike the other Eau creations, Cologne du Parfumeur cannot be combined with your usual fragrance, as it has the trail and hold of an Eau Fraîche.

• Top notes: citrus notes, Amalfi lemon, mint, galbanum
• Middle notes: African orange blossom, rosemary, lavender
• Base notes: white musk

Scent Profile:

La Cologne Du Parfumeur by Guerlain is a masterful study in freshness, a citrus aromatic fragrance designed for both women and men. Its opening is bright, sparkling, and almost effervescent. The citrus notes are immediately radiant, with Amalfi lemon at the forefront. This Italian lemon, grown along the sun-drenched Amalfi Coast, is prized for its vibrant, zesty character and slightly sweet nuance that distinguishes it from more bitter varieties like Sicilian lemon. The essential oil is rich in limonene and citral, giving the fragrance a luminous, sparkling top that is both crisp and intoxicating. Mint adds a green, cooling facet, lifting the citrus brightness while offering a subtle herbal bite. Galbanum, a resin derived from plants in the Mediterranean, introduces a deep, green, slightly balsamic tone, enhancing the natural freshness of the citrus while grounding it with a resinous complexity. Together, these top notes are an invigorating symphony, a first impression that is vibrant, clean, and sophisticated.

As the fragrance develops, the heart reveals a delicate floral-aromatic ensemble. African orange blossom, sourced from North and West Africa, brings a refined, honeyed floral quality that is softer and less indolic than Mediterranean orange blossom. Its aromatic molecules, particularly linalool and nerolidol, add warmth and creaminess, harmonizing beautifully with the fresh citrus above. Lavender provides a herbal-floral lift, its camphoraceous and slightly woody undertones evoking the sun-baked fields of Provence. Rosemary contributes an aromatic, resinous facet with subtle camphor and cineole notes, enhancing the heart’s green complexity while complementing the floral sweetness. The combination of these middle notes produces an elegant balance of brightness, herbal freshness, and soft floral sweetness—a delicate bridge between the sparkling top and the restrained base.

The base of La Cologne Du Parfumeur is understated yet vital, comprised solely of white musk. This musk creates a gentle, skin-like warmth, enveloping the wearer in a soft, lingering veil. Naturally, musk contains muscone and civetone, molecules that impart subtle animalic depth, while in this Eau Fraîche-style cologne, the synthetic enhancement smooths and refines the trail, ensuring the scent remains intimate and delicate without overpowering the crisp top and middle notes. The effect is a fragrance that feels natural, wearable, and extraordinarily refined—a modern cologne that respects the classical tradition while adding contemporary elegance.

La Cologne Du Parfumeur is intentionally designed as an independent creation; it cannot be layered with other fragrances without compromising its airy clarity. Its balanced interplay of citrus, green herbal notes, soft white florals, and delicate musk gives it a sophisticated, almost meditative character. From the sun-soaked Amalfi lemon to the subtle warmth of musks, each ingredient is carefully chosen and blended to create a fragrance that is simultaneously refreshing, intimate, and timeless—truly a cologne in the purist, perfumer’s sense of the word.

Bottle:

Presented in the white bee bottle in various sizes.


Available as:

• 100ml ($96) 
• 250ml ($205) 
• 500ml ($300)

Le Bolshoi c2011

Le Bolshoi by Guerlain, launched in 2011, was a fragrance of exceptional significance and prestige. Introduced as a limited edition of only 400 bottles, it debuted on October 27th, just one day before the grand reopening of the historical Main Stage of the Bolshoi Theater in Moscow, a venue celebrated worldwide for its extraordinary contributions to ballet and opera. Guerlain, as one of the sponsors of the theater’s extensive renovation project, created Le Bolshoi to commemorate this milestone, aligning the elegance of perfumery with the cultural grandeur of the iconic institution.

The name “Le Bolshoi”, pronounced in layman’s terms as “Le Bol-shoy”, is French for “The Grand” or “The Great,” and directly references the theater’s illustrious reputation. The word evokes imagery of gilded auditoriums, sweeping stage curtains, and the artistry of dancers in fluid, dramatic motion. It conjures a sense of sophistication, timelessness, and the transcendent beauty of the performing arts, linking the perfume to a sphere of elevated cultural refinement.

The fragrance emerged in a period marked by a revival of classical and elegant motifs in perfumery, where historical references and limited editions were increasingly favored by collectors and connoisseurs. Women of the time, drawn to exclusive and culturally resonant scents, would have found Le Bolshoi deeply appealing—a perfume that celebrated artistry, elegance, and historical significance while offering a sensorial experience of floral refinement.

Created by Jean-Paul Guerlain, Le Bolshoi is a floral fragrance for women and serves as a recreation of the 2009 perfume Les Secrets de Sophie. While it reflected contemporary trends in florals, the perfume’s strong cultural narrative and association with a prestigious historical event set it apart from typical market offerings. Its carefully composed floral heart, captured in a luxurious bottle, translated the grandeur and artistry of the Bolshoi stage into an olfactory performance, creating a scent that was as much a tribute to culture and history as it was a wearable perfume.

 

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Le Bolshoi is classified as a floral fragrance for women.

• Top notes: bergamot, bitter orange, petitgrain, neroli
• Middle notes: jasmine, violet, orange blossom, ylang-ylang
• Base notes: musk, tonka bean, vanilla and incense

Scent Profile:

Le Bolshoi opens with a bright and effervescent top accord, where the crisp bergamot immediately awakens the senses. This Italian bergamot carries a refined citrus sharpness, rich in linalyl acetate, limonene, and citral, providing both freshness and subtle sweetness. Layered alongside is bitter orange from Spain, whose rind offers a more astringent, slightly resinous character, adding depth to the citrus opening. Petitgrain, distilled from the leaves and twigs of the bitter orange tree, contributes a green, slightly woody facet, with natural linalool imparting a soft, aromatic clarity. Neroli, the delicate blossom of the bitter orange, elevates the opening with its luminous, honeyed floral facets, creating an immediate sense of refinement and elegance. Together, these top notes form a radiant, invigorating prelude that evokes the sparkling chandeliers of the Bolshoi’s grand stage.

The heart of Le Bolshoi unfolds with a lush, intoxicating floral bouquet. Jasmine, sourced from India or Egypt, dominates with its rich, heady sweetness and natural benzyl acetate and indole compounds, which contribute both its velvety floral warmth and a subtle animalic depth. Violet adds a soft, powdery, and slightly green nuance, reminiscent of velvet stage curtains. Orange blossom deepens the floral impression with its radiant, sun-drenched white-flower aroma, while ylang-ylang from the Comoros or Madagascar introduces an exotic, creamy tropical sweetness, with methyl benzoate and geranyl acetate enhancing the floral opulence. The middle notes are opulent yet balanced, capturing a sense of grandeur, elegance, and the sweeping drama of ballet in motion.

The base of the fragrance grounds the composition with a warm, sensual, and subtly resinous foundation. Musk provides a soft, skin-like warmth, while tonka bean, rich in coumarin, adds sweet, slightly almond-like and vanilla nuances. Vanilla amplifies this sweetness, offering comfort and richness, its natural vanillin complemented by synthetics to achieve a lasting, enveloping trail. Incense lends a smoky, ethereal, almost sacred aura, reminiscent of candlelit theaters, elevating the scent’s sophistication and giving the perfume a timeless, almost ceremonial finish. Each element in the base harmonizes to create a lingering impression that evokes elegance, mystery, and the grandiosity of the Bolshoi stage, making Le Bolshoi not only a perfume but a sensory journey into the world of classical art and refinement.

Bottle:

Fleurs de Guildo c1885

Launched in 1885, Fleurs de Guildo was created by Aimé Guerlain, the second generation of the legendary perfume house. Its name, meaning “Flowers of Guildo” in French (pronounced flur duh geel-doh), evokes both place and poetry. The word “Guildo” refers to the Château du Guildo, a ruined medieval fortress overlooking the Arguenon estuary in Brittany, France—a region known for its wild coastal beauty, heather-covered moors, and briny Atlantic breezes. To 19th-century French society, the name would have conjured images of windswept cliffs, sea-lavender, and fields of broom and gorse—flowers that thrive where land meets sea. The title alone suggested an idyll of purity and freshness, a floral fantasy rooted in nature rather than artifice.

During the 1880s, France was in the late Belle Époque period—a time of cultural refinement, artistic flourish, and a deep fascination with nature, travel, and romance. Fashion favored soft pastels, delicate lace, and floral motifs; women wore gowns trimmed with blossoms, and perfumes that mirrored these fashions were in high demand. Fleurs de Guildo arrived at a moment when perfumery was transitioning from purely single-note floral waters to more nuanced compositions that blended the realism of nature with the artistry of chemistry. It was also an era when Aimé Guerlain was experimenting with new accords and techniques, moving the house beyond cologne-style freshness into more emotional and evocative perfumery.

The name Fleurs de Guildo would have held particular allure for women of the time. The reference to flowers—the eternal symbol of femininity—paired with a Breton landscape, spoke of innocence, youth, and unspoiled nature. In L’Art de la toilette chez la femme: Bréviaire de la vie élégante, the perfume was noted as being particularly suited to young women, emphasizing freshness, grace, and natural charm over opulence or sensuality. It was not the scent of a grand ballroom, but of a seaside garden in early morning light.

Interpreted in scent, Fleurs de Guildo was described as “a fresh and delightful perfume, saturated with the essence of plants that grow along the seashore.” The composition combined green, herbal, and floral notes—including lavender, broom, violet, and wild rose—with airy touches that suggested sea spray and heather. There would have been a gentle, sun-warmed sweetness balanced by the crispness of the coastal breeze. Its delicate floral heart and soft musky base would have made it both comforting and invigorating, much like a walk along the Breton cliffs where wildflowers sway in the salt air.

In the context of its time, Fleurs de Guildo was both modern and traditional. While it followed the popular trend of “bouquet” fragrances inspired by nature, it also stood out for its realism and freshness—qualities that hinted at the later emergence of marine and green floral families in perfumery. It demonstrated Aimé Guerlain’s gift for transforming the natural world into fragrance poetry: a composition that spoke of earth and air, youth and elegance, and a fleeting moment of beauty made eternal in scent.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Fleurs de Guildo is classified as a floral amber (ambery floral) fragrance.

• Top notes: broom, lavender, heather, sweet briar 
• Middle notes: rose, jasmine, lily of the valley, violet, geranium 
• Base notes: heliotrope, ambergris, vanilla, musk

Scent Profile:

At first breath, Fleurs de Guildo unfolds like the soft exhalation of the Breton coast itself—salt-laced air carrying the scent of moorland flowers and wild herbs warmed by the sun. The composition opens with the tender, honeyed breath of broom, a flowering shrub that grows in abundance on the heaths near the Château du Guildo in Brittany. Its fragrance is sweet yet dry, recalling warm hay and distant meadows. Chemically rich in methyl anthranilate and ionones, broom gives a natural warmth and faintly animalic sweetness, bridging floral and herbal tones. From France, broom has a particular golden delicacy—less indolic than Mediterranean varieties, yet more radiant—evoking the open hills and sunlit coasts of northern France.

Intertwined with broom’s sunny glow comes the clean, herbaceous lavender, perhaps from Provence, whose crisp linalool and linalyl acetate molecules lend the perfume both brightness and calm. The scent of heather, seldom used in modern perfumery, adds a dry, floral-green note reminiscent of wild honey and damp moss—an impression of the rugged Breton moors. Sweet briar, or wild rose, completes the opening with a tart, apple-like greenness (thanks to citronellol and geraniol) that catches in the air like dew clinging to morning petals. Together, these top notes create the illusion of wind through wild grass and blossoms—fresh, airy, and slightly wistful.

As the perfume deepens, the floral heart unfurls with classic Guerlain refinement. A soft rose—likely Bulgarian or French May rose—blooms at the center, lush and velvety. Its characteristic phenylethyl alcohol and citronellol give natural sweetness balanced by the faint peppery spice of geranium, whose own rosy facets add lift and clarity. Jasmine, perhaps from Grasse, infuses a narcotic richness through its benzyl acetate and indole, lending sensual warmth without overpowering the delicate floral balance. Lily of the valley (likely recreated through early synthetic accords, as the flower yields no natural extract) brings a green, aqueous shimmer to the bouquet—its hydroxycitronellal-like brightness giving a feeling of wet petals and morning light. Violet, rich in ionones, adds a powdery, wistful tone—a touch of romantic melancholy that links the floral heart to the soft sweetness of the base.

As it settles, Fleurs de Guildo drapes itself in warmth. Heliotrope, with its almond-vanilla aroma derived from heliotropin (piperonal), lends a tender, creamy sweetness that softens the sharpness of the earlier floral notes. Ambergris, the treasure of the sea, provides a faintly salty, musky-animal warmth that deepens the perfume’s marine inspiration. Natural ambergris contains ambrein, which oxidizes into sweet, ambery compounds that give radiance and longevity—an olfactory echo of the ocean’s depths. Vanilla, likely from Madagascar, contributes a lush, balsamic roundness, its vanillin molecules enhancing both sweetness and comfort. Finally, musk—whether natural in the 19th century or a recreated synthetic accord—enfolds everything in a soft, sensual veil, binding the composition with a human warmth that lingers on the skin.

The result is a fragrance that feels alive with place and memory—a portrait of Brittany’s moors and sea air, translated into scent. The interplay between the floral freshness of broom and rose, the green purity of lily of the valley and heather, and the tender warmth of heliotrope, vanilla, and ambergris creates a harmony both pastoral and romantic. Fleurs de Guildo captures that liminal space where land meets sea, where flowers bloom amid salt and wind. It is at once innocent and sensual, refined yet wild—the scent of blossoms carried on the coastal breeze, timeless in its grace and unmistakably Guerlain in its soul.

Bottles:

Housed in the Carre flacon and others.

Fate of the Fragrance:

In 1886, the Journal des demoiselles placed Guildo among the most fashionable perfumes of the winter season, alongside elegant names such as Primavera d’Espagne and Impérial Russe. The tone is one of admiration: “The newest creation, Guildo, has achieved remarkable success—its fragrance is exquisite and sweet, with a freshness that lingers beautifully.” These words suggest that Guildo offered a kind of brightness uncommon in winter perfumes of the time, which often leaned toward heavy ambers or spicy orientals. Instead, Guildo brought the freshness of the coast into the perfumed salons of Paris—a scent of vitality, tempered by sweetness, that promised refinement and renewal amid the chill of the season.

By 1887, in Les Lettres et les Arts, critics were describing Fleurs de Guildo in near-poetic terms. They spoke of Guerlain’s genius for turning the illusion of flowers into something alive: “With a master’s touch, he captures the delicate soul of the most elusive blossoms, distilling their essence into a single drop that transforms imitation into life.” The text evokes the perfume as an act of artistic resurrection—the transformation of lifeless imitation into something breathing, singing, and vital. The mention of violet, rose, geranium, broom from the Breton moors of Guildo, heliotrope, and lily of the valley creates a sensory tableau of wild and cultivated florals mingling together. The broom and heather lend the perfume its coastal authenticity—earthy, honeyed, and windswept—while the soft violet and heliotrope introduce an air of delicacy and dream. The image of “the bouquet that awakens, breathes, and sings” captures precisely what Guerlain achieved: a symphony of scent that felt more alive than nature itself, contained within a flacon that “gleams like Venetian crystal.”

By 1890, the Journal des demoiselles again noted Guildo as a fragrance of great distinction, pairing it with Jicky—then Guerlain’s daring new modern masterpiece. “Guildo is pleasant and long-lasting; it produces a lively and stimulating impression, reminiscent of the fragrance of plants growing along the seashore.” Here the emphasis shifts toward its marine freshness, a quality that must have felt exhilarating and new to 19th-century sensibilities accustomed to heavy floral or resinous compositions. To describe a perfume as stimulating—evoking the scent of “plants growing along the seashore”—is to imagine that briny, windswept vitality distilled into something wearable. It appealed, the reviewer noted, to “those who enjoy pronounced scents”—women who desired perfume with presence, yet grounded in nature’s realism.

Taken together, these accounts trace the evolution of Fleurs de Guildo from fashionable novelty to a beloved Guerlain signature. It was admired not only for its freshness and realism but also for its poetic soul—a perfume that made the flowers of Brittany bloom anew in Parisian air. Guerlain’s artistry lay in translating landscape into fragrance: turning broom and heather, violet and heliotrope, into a scent that captured the romance of the Breton coast, the freshness of sea wind, and the grace of a bouquet that “awakens, breathes, and sings.”

Discontinued, date unknown. Still available as late as 1890.