Monday, July 15, 2013

Shalimar - Black Mystery Bottle 2007

In 2007, Guerlain unveiled Shalimar “Black Mystery”, a collector’s edition created especially for the holiday season. This release offered a dramatic reinterpretation of one of perfumery’s most legendary fragrances, Shalimar, not through a change in formula, but through the artistry of its presentation. Both the parfum and the eau de parfum concentrations were preserved exactly as they had always been, maintaining the enduring balance of bergamot, iris, vanilla, and amber that defined Jacques Guerlain’s 1925 masterpiece. What made this edition remarkable was the flacon—an object designed to be as memorable and precious as the perfume itself.

For the parfum, Guerlain partnered with Baccarat, whose crystal artistry brought the concept of “Black Mystery” to life. The resulting flacon was crafted in smoky black crystal, its sleek curves enriched with burnished gold accents that heightened the sense of opulence and drama. The bottle’s dark translucence seemed to conceal and reveal at once, echoing the sensual mystery of Shalimar itself. As a design, it took inspiration from Philippe Starck’s celebrated black crystal chandelier, bridging the worlds of fine perfumery and modern design while casting Shalimar as a jewel of rare, timeless allure.

Alongside the Baccarat edition, Guerlain also released the eau de parfum in a black glass spray bottle, ensuring that the mystique of this special edition was accessible in a more practical format, while still carrying forward the collector’s spirit of the release. Both flacons—whether crystal or glass—conveyed an unmistakable sense of modern luxury layered upon historical reverence. By cloaking its most famous fragrance in midnight tones, Guerlain gave Shalimar a new visual identity: seductive, mysterious, and contemporary, yet still inseparably tied to its legendary past.







Shalimar Secret de Parfum 2002

In 2002, Guerlain unveiled Shalimar Secret de Parfum, a limited-edition presentation that paid homage to its most iconic creation while offering a modern reinterpretation of its flacon. This edition did not alter the fragrance itself—the juice remained the timeless Shalimar eau de parfum, with its rich, smoky-vanillic accord beloved since 1925. Instead, the emphasis was on presentation, marrying heritage with contemporary design.

The bottle was striking in its simplicity: a tall, slim, cylindrical vial of sapphire-blue glass that radiated a sense of cool elegance and modern minimalism, a departure from the ornate curves of earlier Shalimar bottles. Its height and clarity gave the impression of refined architectural precision, almost like a modern column devoted to perfume. Crowning the flacon was the familiar fan-shaped stopper, rendered once more in deep blue, linking the new styling back to Guerlain’s historic visual language. This subtle continuity—modern lines balanced by an instantly recognizable stopper—ensured that the limited edition remained unmistakably Shalimar while still appearing fresh and updated.

Holding just 1 ounce (30 ml) of eau de parfum, the bottle was designed as a splash vial, evoking a more intimate and ritualistic application than today’s atomizers. Dabbing the fragrance by hand felt almost ceremonial, recalling the elegance of earlier eras when applying perfume was a private gesture of luxury. Though the flacon was limited, its contents—unchanged and eternal—reminded wearers that the essence of Shalimar’s sensual, oriental richness was too perfect to be reinvented. Instead, this edition highlighted how a change in vessel could subtly reframe the perception of an already legendary perfume.



Chypre de Paris 1909

Chypre de Paris by Guerlain was introduced in 1909, created by Jacques Guerlain, and represented the house’s third exploration of the chypre theme, following Chypre (1838) and Cyprisine (1894). The name itself, Chypre de Paris, is French, pronounced roughly as "Sheep-ruh duh Pah-ree". The word chypre literally means “Cyprus,” referencing the Mediterranean island historically associated with resins, mosses, and aromatic herbs used in early perfumery. The addition of de Paris (“of Paris”) fused the exotic allure of the ancient Mediterranean with the sophistication of the French capital — suggesting not only a perfume of nature’s depth but one refined through Parisian artistry.

The name Chypre de Paris would have conjured vivid images for early 20th-century women: the romance of faraway lands mingling with the cosmopolitan elegance of Paris. It evoked emotions of mystery, refinement, and worldliness, promising a scent that embodied both classical richness and modern glamour. The word chypre itself carried a sense of ancient opulence — sun-warmed woods, moss-covered groves, and aromatic herbs — but when paired with Paris, it implied a fragrance tailored for the modern woman of la Belle Époque.

The perfume’s release in 1909 came at the height of the Belle Époque (1871–1914), an era of optimism, cultural flourishing, and luxurious excess. Paris was the epicenter of fashion and art; Paul Poiret was revolutionizing women’s dress with free-flowing silhouettes, the Ballets Russes had begun to enchant audiences with its exoticism, and the idea of the modern woman — confident, cosmopolitan, and socially visible — was emerging. In perfumery, the turn of the century marked a transition from the sentimental floral bouquets of the Victorian period toward bolder, more abstract compositions that celebrated materials like leather, amber, and woods. Perfume was no longer merely a ladylike adornment; it became a symbol of identity and sophistication.

Although its name suggests a classical chypre, Chypre de Paris diverged from what would later become the modern chypre structure defined by Coty’s Chypre (1917). Instead of emphasizing a mossy, floral base built on oakmoss and labdanum, Guerlain’s interpretation was aromatic, spicy, and leathery — a reflection of early 20th-century tastes for textured and assertive scents. It may have carried notes of herbs, woods, and animalic leather, producing a dry, elegant warmth that mirrored the tailored fashions and bold spirits of its era.

For women of 1909, wearing a perfume called Chypre de Paris would have signified urban sophistication tempered with exotic intrigue. It suggested a woman equally at ease in a Parisian salon as in a daydream of ancient Cyprus — confident, sensual, and modern. In context, Guerlain’s Chypre de Paris was both a continuation of a historical perfumery tradition and a forward-looking creation that bridged the romantic past with the daring new aesthetic of the 20th century.


  

Fragrance Composition:



So what does it smell like? Chypre de Paris is classified as an aromatic spicy leather fragrance.
  • Top notes: leather, spicy notes, lavender, bergamot, lemon
  • Middle notes: jasmine, orange blossom, rose, ylang ylang, orris, nutmeg
  • Base notes: calamus, opoponax, patchouli, Peru balsam, oakmoss, vanilla, musk and civet

Scent Profile:


Chypre de Paris unfolds like a sensory journey through early 20th-century luxury — a tapestry of natural essences and emerging synthetics woven together with Jacques Guerlain’s precise, sensual hand. Classified as an aromatic spicy leather fragrance, it evokes the texture of finely tanned leather gloves, the warmth of polished woods, and the languor of sunlit Mediterranean gardens. To experience it note by note is to trace its evolution from the brightness of the morning air to the dim glow of evening embers.

The perfume opens with the commanding scent of leather, smooth and animalic, recalling the supple gloves and travel trunks that symbolized refinement in Guerlain’s Paris. This leather effect was achieved not from true leather itself but through accords built with birch tar, castoreum, and isobutyl quinoline—materials that together conjure the smoky, slightly bitter aroma of well-worn hide. The addition of spicy notes — likely clove, cinnamon, or perhaps a whisper of black pepper — warms the sharpness of the leather, adding depth and a tactile sensuality. 

Then comes lavender, its essence distilled from the sun-baked fields of Provence, lending a brisk, aromatic counterpoint. French lavender is particularly prized for its balance of linalool (which imparts its clean, camphorous clarity) and linalyl acetate (which adds sweetness and roundness). The bergamot, likely sourced from Calabria, infuses the blend with an elegant citrus radiance, its volatile limonene and linalool molecules imparting effervescence and lift. A hint of lemon sharpens this effect — a flash of sunlight cutting through the smoke of leather — its aldehydes heightening the perfume’s sparkling first impression.

As the fragrance warms on the skin, the heart blossoms into a floral symphony that reveals Guerlain’s gift for balance and nuance. Jasmine, likely from Grasse, contributes its narcotic sweetness, rich in benzyl acetate and indole, lending both luminosity and a subtle, animalic undertone. Orange blossom, drawn from the bitter orange trees of Neroli, shimmers with honeyed freshness, a delicate interplay of linalool and nerolidol that lends a clean yet sensual transparency. 

Rose, velvety and slightly spicy, bridges the gap between the floral and the leathery, while ylang-ylang—harvested from the Comoros Islands—adds a creamy, tropical languor. Its unique composition of benzyl salicylate and p-cresyl methyl ether gives the heart a smooth, narcotic quality that blends seamlessly with the cool, powdery orris root. Derived from the rhizomes of the Florentine iris, orris lends its subtle violet-woody nuance, rich in ionones that give the perfume its haunting, cosmetic-like softness. Nutmeg, from the East Indies, punctuates this floral heart with warm spice, its myristicin and safrole molecules lending a sweet, resinous heat that lingers and deepens the transition toward the base.

In the drydown, Chypre de Paris becomes shadowy and intimate, resting on a foundation of resins, mosses, and musks. The presence of calamus, a warm, woody-sweet root, brings an earthy bitterness reminiscent of damp reeds along a riverbank. Opoponax, or sweet myrrh, harvested from Somalia, introduces a resinous, balsamic warmth, its complex mixture of sesquiterpenes and furanoids imparting a soft amber glow. 

Patchouli, likely sourced from Indonesia, grounds the composition with its inky, camphorous depth; rich in patchoulol and norpatchoulenol, it provides both structure and sensuality. Peru balsam, from El Salvador, adds a silky, vanillic sweetness with undertones of cinnamon and amber, while oakmoss contributes its defining chypre character — earthy, damp, and green. Containing evernyl and atranol, natural oakmoss binds the elements together, adding complexity and an almost tactile mossy texture.

Finally, vanilla, musk, and civet create the lingering trail that defines Guerlain’s sensual signature. The vanilla, derived from Madagascar pods, rounds the base with comforting warmth through its vanillin content, while a trace of synthetic vanillin amplifies its creaminess. The musk accord — originally derived from the musk deer but recreated synthetically by the early 20th century — lends a soft, skin-like radiance, amplifying the perfume’s warmth and depth. The addition of civet, sourced from the civet cat, provides an animalic purr — intimate, slightly dirty, and profoundly human — binding the florals and resins into one living, breathing whole.

To smell Chypre de Paris is to inhale the turn of a century: a world suspended between natural opulence and modern chemistry, between the elegance of tradition and the boldness of invention. Each ingredient tells its own story — of earth, flower, and animal — yet under Jacques Guerlain’s hand, they merge into something ineffably Parisian: mysterious, refined, and alive with warmth.




From our friend Monsieur Guerlain: " Frédéric Sacone tells us that Jacques Guerlain reused Chypre de Paris to make his Cuir de Russie in 1935. Upon researching the handwritten formula for Cuir de Russie, Frédéric Sacone found out that it lists Chypre de Paris, as well as Mitsouko, among its ingredients."


Evening Star, 1913:
"Mere names of perfumes give no idea," said Zinda Brozia. "You must smell them. As many makers, so there are as many "'chypres'. There is no such perfume, though Walter Scott mentions it, and Houbigant had a 'cypris" in 1775. Guerlain has a 'cyprisine' and a 'chypre de Paris'. The original 'Chypre' was a very successful mixture of Atkinson, years ago; and as he did not protect the name, everybody took it up. Now Guerlain's 'Chypre de Paris', although of the cheap $1.20 series, is a sum total of perfume value, distinction and lasting qualities. I imagine it would be impossible to repeat, hein?"


Bottles:



Presented in the Carre flacon.





Fate of the Fragrance:


Discontinued, date unknown. Still sold in 1913.

Sunday, July 14, 2013

Shalimar 60th Anniversary Flacon 1985

In 1985, Guerlain commemorated the 60th anniversary of Shalimar with a truly distinctive creation — the Shalimar 60th Anniversary Flacon Paperweight Award. Designed as both a celebration of the house’s enduring success and a tribute to one of its most iconic perfumes, this exclusive piece was presented to top-performing sales leaders of Guerlain products that year.

The award features a factice bottle filled with colored perfume simulating Shalimar perfume, forever suspended within a solid block of clear Lucite. The transparent casing magnifies the flacon’s graceful lines and the golden hue of the perfume, transforming the classic chauve-souris (bat-wing) bottle into a timeless keepsake rather than a functional fragrance. Sealed completely within the Lucite, the bottle cannot be removed or used—preserving it in pristine form, like a captured moment of Guerlain’s history.

The cube itself stands 4 inches high and 3 inches wide, its base discreetly engraved to mark “60th Anniversary”, commemorating six decades of Shalimar’s legendary status. At once a symbol of achievement and artistry, this paperweight embodies Guerlain’s ability to merge luxury, heritage, and innovation, paying homage to a fragrance that had, by then, enchanted the world for sixty years.






Sunday, June 30, 2013

Cour des Senteurs: Versailles c2013

In 2013, Guerlain inaugurated a new boutique in the Cour des Senteurs of Versailles, the historic royal city near Paris. Situated in the heart of Versailles’ oldest neighborhood, mere steps from the Château, this boutique celebrates the storied art of French perfumery while offering an immersive, behind-the-scenes experience for visitors from France and abroad. Its presence honors Guerlain’s longstanding ties to royalty and luxury: from the founder’s early days on the ground floor of the Hôtel Meurice in 1828, becoming perfumer to Queen Marie-Amélie and later designated Official Supplier to the Imperial Court for Empress Eugénie, to the creation of bespoke fragrances for international aristocracy, Guerlain has long embodied the pinnacle of refinement and craftsmanship.

The boutique itself is conceived as a modern homage to the French arts of perfumery and beauty, drawing inspiration from Versailles’ historic role as a center of luxury and fine craftsmanship under Louis XIV, the Sun King. Visitors first encounter a circular tympanum above the entrance, echoing the triangular pediment of the flagship Champs-Elysées boutique. Inside, the lobby walls are adorned with a bas-relief of the Tree of Life, an abstract design incorporating the names of Guerlain’s perfumes and their creation dates. Dominating the interior is a 2.2-meter stone representation of the Guerlain astre, the emblem of Apollo, originally used to adorn soaps and powder compacts, symbolizing life, creativity, and the protective spirit of the arts—a silent guardian overseeing the boutique.

From the lobby, visitors are led into the Atelier des Parfums, an interactive space offering private guided visits for adults and children alike. Here, the art of Guerlain is revealed through multimedia displays: house perfumer Thierry Wasser explains his craft, the creation of Guerlain flacons is demonstrated, and the traditional protective membrane and seal, known as baudruchage, is applied. Guests can also admire the meticulous handiwork of the Dames de Table as they craft the iconic Guerlain tassel, alongside numerous other techniques that highlight the house’s enduring mastery of fine perfumery.

In homage to the royal celebrations of Versailles, Guerlain created an exclusive perfume for the Cour des Senteurs boutique. Drawing inspiration from the Château’s gardens, once perfumed with jasmine and other sweet blooms, the fragrance captures the opulence and elegance of the court. Calabrian jasmine (Jasminum grandiflorum) forms the heart of the perfume, enveloped by spring florals such as cyclamen and additional jasmine nuances. The top notes burst with the lively green freshness of bergamot and galbanum, while the base is adorned with amber and white musk, leaving a majestic and lingering trail. The perfume evokes the grandeur of Versailles, the radiant beauty of royal gardens, and the timeless sophistication of Guerlain—a fragrant celebration of history, craftsmanship, and artistry.




Cour des Senteurs: Versailles by Guerlain was launched in 2013, a fragrant homage to the historic royal city near Paris where Guerlain chose to open a boutique dedicated to the art of perfumery. The name “Cour des Senteurs” translates from French as “Court of Scents”, and when paired with Versailles, it evokes the imagery of wandering through a sunlit courtyard filled with blooming flowers, aromatic herbs, and the refined elegance of French aristocracy. Pronounced simply as "koor day sahn-tuhr Ver-sigh", the name conjures visions of lush gardens, stately châteaux, and the delicate, ephemeral beauty of scent wafting through open air—a stroll through history and fragrance intertwined. The words themselves evoke sophistication, leisure, and a connection to France’s storied past, calling to mind the grand celebrations, elegant gatherings, and ritualized beauty practices of the court.

Launched in the early 2010s, a period marked by a renewed fascination with artisanal luxury and heritage brands, Cour des Senteurs: Versailles arrived at a moment when consumers increasingly valued authenticity, provenance, and storytelling in perfumery. The fragrance celebrates France’s rich horticultural and perfumery traditions, taking inspiration from the gardens of the Château of Versailles, where jasmine, galbanum, and other fragrant flowers once perfumed the grounds for royals and courtiers alike. Women experiencing this fragrance would have been transported to that historical world, imagining the refinement of 18th-century court life while enjoying a contemporary expression of natural elegance. Its name suggests leisure, sophistication, and a curated sensory journey, which aligns perfectly with Guerlain’s philosophy of combining heritage with innovation.

Olfactively, Cour des Senteurs: Versailles is a luminous floral composition, identical in concentration and composition to the earlier Aqua Allegoria Jasminora (2011). Its top notes offer a fresh and verdant introduction with bergamot and galbanum, imparting crisp, green facets reminiscent of a morning stroll through the palace gardens. The heart blossoms with Calabrian jasmine (Jasminum grandiflorum), supported by the delicate sweetness of cyclamen, evoking petals kissed by sunlight and the intoxicating allure of Versailles’ historic gardens. The base melds amber and white musk, giving the fragrance a gentle, lingering warmth, subtle yet resonant—a soft echo of the elegance and quiet power of the royal court.

In the context of other fragrances of the early 2010s, Cour des Senteurs: Versailles aligns with contemporary trends emphasizing green florals, natural essences, and heritage storytelling, rather than breaking radically new ground. Yet its refinement, historical resonance, and connection to the prestigious Guerlain lineage make it a distinct and evocative creation. It bridges past and present, offering the wearer a sense of grace, sophistication, and timeless elegance, all while remaining approachable for those familiar with Aqua Allegoria’s light, fresh compositions. This fragrance, like its setting, is an olfactory journey through the elegance, artistry, and grandeur of Versailles.




Fragrance Composition:



So what does it smell like? It is classified as a green floral fragrance.
  • Top notes: galbanum, bergamot, cyclamen
  • Middle notes: Calabrian jasmine, freesia, lily of the valley
  • Base notes: white musk, amber


Scent Profile:



Cour des Senteurs: Versailles opens with a luminous green burst that immediately evokes a stroll through the manicured gardens of the Château of Versailles. The galbanum is first to greet the senses—a resinous, slightly bitter green note reminiscent of freshly crushed leaves and the crispness of early spring. Sourced traditionally from the Mediterranean regions such as Iran and Morocco, galbanum is prized for its intensely verdant character, which carries a subtle balsamic undertone. Its natural aroma compounds, including α-pinene and β-pinene, provide a sharp, sparkling green opening that is simultaneously clean and invigorating, giving the perfume a bright, almost architectural clarity. Layered alongside galbanum is bergamot, harvested from the sun-soaked groves of Calabria in southern Italy. Its citrusy sweetness—highlighted by limonene and linalyl acetate—adds a luminous, effervescent lift, balancing galbanum’s earthy edge with a delicate sparkling softness. A touch of cyclamen infuses the top with airy, watery floral facets, lending a gentle, dewy freshness that feels like petals lightly brushing the skin.

In the heart, Calabrian jasmine (Jasminum grandiflorum) unfolds with a voluptuous, opulent floral richness. Its aroma is laced with indole, giving it a slightly animalic undertone that is softened by the jasmine’s inherent sweetness, creating an enveloping, sensual elegance. The addition of freesia introduces crisp, fruity facets with a subtle peppery bite, while lily of the valley imparts delicate green florals and a clean, ethereal transparency. Together, these notes produce a refined bouquet that is at once vivid and intimate, evoking sunlit flowerbeds and shaded garden paths. The natural compounds in jasmine—benzyl acetate, jasmone, and linalool—work harmoniously with the freesia’s ketones and lily of the valley’s hydroxyacetone derivatives to create a layered, textured floral heart. The interplay between natural essences and carefully calibrated synthetics enhances longevity and ensures the bouquet remains radiant on the skin without becoming overly heady.

The base is a soft, comforting foundation of white musk and amber. The white musk adds a subtle, clean animalic warmth that rounds the composition, while the amber brings a golden resinous glow, rich with vanillin and benzyl compounds. Together, they leave a luminous, lingering trail that evokes the serene majesty of Versailles’ gardens in the evening, when the sun casts a gentle warmth over the greenery. These base notes provide a gentle but persistent support, allowing the green floral top and heart to radiate without losing structure or definition.

Overall, Cour des Senteurs: Versailles is a refined green floral that captures the freshness, elegance, and historical resonance of the royal gardens. Every ingredient—whether sourced from Mediterranean soil or expertly reinterpreted with modern aroma chemistry—works together to create a fragrance that is luminous, transparent, and evocative, bridging the grandeur of Versailles with the subtle artistry of Guerlain’s contemporary perfume-making.



Bottle:




The Cour des Senteurs: Versailles perfume is presented in a bottle that exudes understated luxury while paying homage to Guerlain’s storied heritage. The flacon itself is crafted from colorless glass, allowing the pale, luminous liquid to be fully visible, a nod to transparency and purity. Molded into the glass are Guerlain’s signature bees, a timeless emblem of the house, which imbue the bottle with both elegance and historical significance, recalling the brand’s ties to French royalty and its long tradition of crafting perfumes for imperial courts.

The neck of the bottle is adorned with a striking bow made of red grosgrain ribbon, meticulously edged in black. The vivid red is a symbolic tribute to the dazzling court of Louis XIV, reflecting the audacious opulence of the Sun King, who alone among his courtiers was permitted to wear red heels. This decorative touch not only evokes the grandeur of Versailles but also adds a playful, regal flourish, framing the bottle with a sense of theatrical sophistication.

Completing the design is a pristine white label, centered with the astre, Guerlain’s iconic emblem derived from the Sun King himself. This symbol conveys radiance, vitality, and artistic mastery, uniting the fragrance, the house’s identity, and the royal inspiration into a single, harmonious presentation. The combination of clear glass, historical motifs, and regal accents transforms the bottle into more than a container—it is a visual narrative of French luxury, courtly elegance, and Guerlain’s enduring commitment to artistry in perfumery.




Click HERE to find Cour des Senteurs: Versailles by Guerlain

Eau de Cologne Pour le Bain

Eau de Cologne Pour le Bain is one of those elusive creations in Guerlain’s history—an insider’s treasure whispered about rather than widely known. Unlike the great public launches that dazzled boutiques and advertisements, this cologne was reportedly reserved exclusively for Guerlain employees, a quiet luxury shared within the family of the house. Such exclusivity only heightens its mystique, positioning it as both a privilege and a secret among those closest to the brand.

What makes this bath cologne especially intriguing is the report that it was crafted using only natural extracts. In an era when synthetics had long since become the industry norm, this detail stands out. The use of pure botanical materials suggests a return to the roots of perfumery—an echo of Guerlain’s 19th-century colognes, which were built on aromatic distillations and tinctures of citrus, herbs, and flowers. One imagines a fragrance with sparkling bergamot and lemon, softened by aromatic herbs, perhaps rosemary or thyme, and grounded with the warmth of natural woods and resins.

Designed for the bath, its purpose would have been to infuse the water with a gentle, authentic perfume, surrounding the bather in a cloud of freshness and well-being. The all-natural composition likely gave it a softness, a roundness, and a fleeting quality—an evanescent pleasure meant to be savored in private. More than just a cologne, Eau de Cologne Pour le Bain reflects Guerlain’s intimate understanding of scent as both luxury and ritual, offered here not to the world at large but as a gift for those who devoted their days to the maison itself.




Dames de Table Sealing Perfume Bottle

Baudruchage is a historic and highly meticulous method used to seal perfume bottles, designed to prevent spillage and minimize evaporation while preserving the integrity of the fragrance. This technique dates back to some of the earliest forms of perfumery bottle craftsmanship, reflecting both practicality and artistry. Originally, the seal was created using a thin membrane called a “baudruche”, crafted from animal gut, which was combined with silk or cotton cords that were carefully wrapped around the stopper and the neck of the bottle. The result was a secure, elegant seal that not only protected the perfume but also added a sense of ceremony and craftsmanship to the presentation.

Over time, as materials evolved, onionskin or thick plastic films gradually replaced the animal-derived membranes, offering a cleaner and more uniform sealing method while maintaining the traditional aesthetic. Once the membrane and cords were in place, a small metal seal was carefully clamped over the cords’ midpoint, holding them securely together. This final touch not only ensured that the perfume remained airtight but also acted as a decorative element, symbolizing the luxury and attention to detail synonymous with houses like Guerlain. The baudruchage is therefore both a functional and ornamental feature, linking the perfume bottle to centuries of refined tradition and artisanal excellence.





Guerlain elevates the traditional baudruchage sealing method with two additional finishing techniques, transforming a functional seal into a work of art. The first, known as barbichage, involves carefully unraveling and brushing out the loose ends of the cords, creating a soft, airy tassel. This delicate process turns what was once merely utilitarian into something visually captivating, adding a sense of movement and texture that hints at the luxury within the bottle.

The second finishing step, called brossage, further refines the tassel by brushing the threads into a precise triangular shape. This meticulous shaping not only enhances the aesthetic appeal but also signals the craftsmanship and care that go into every Guerlain extrait. Once these steps are complete, the bottle is considered fully finished—its seal both functional and ornamental, radiating an elegance that complements the perfume inside. Together, baudruchage, barbichage, and brossage transform the simple act of sealing into a signature expression of artistry, making each Guerlain parfum bottle a small masterpiece in its own right.




At Guerlain’s Orphin factory, the delicate art of sealing perfume bottles is entrusted to a small, highly skilled group of women known as the Dames de Table—officially called baudrucheuses. These artisans are the guardians of a tradition that stretches back more than a century, their work ensuring that every parfum bottle not only preserves its precious contents but also reflects the house’s heritage of refinement.

There are only seven women who carry out this task each day, their fingers trained to the highest level of dexterity and precision. With remarkable speed and grace, each dame is capable of sealing up to 100 bottles a day, all by hand. Theirs is a craft where function and beauty intersect: they secure the perfume against spillage and evaporation while also transforming the seal into an elegant finishing touch. The careful winding of cords, the placement of the baudruche, and the shaping of tassels embody not just a technique, but an artistry unique to Guerlain.

These women, though rarely seen by the public, are essential to the mystique of the house. Every sealed bottle that leaves Orphin carries their invisible signature—a testament to skill, patience, and a devotion to detail that elevates Guerlain perfumes into timeless objets d’art.



One of Guerlain's "Dames de Table" sealing bee bottles.

© RFI / Ariane Gaffuri

Guerlain's Talc de Toilette

 Guerlain's Talc de Toilette was housed inside of a tin enameled in blue, off white and black.