Monday, July 29, 2013

Creme a la Fraise Pour le Teint c1880

Crème à la Fraise Pour le Teint, introduced around 1880, was an elegant facial preparation by Guerlain, often translated as “Strawberry Cream for the Foundation.” Housed in a white porcelain jar with a delicate strawberry-shaped finial on the lid, the cream was not only functional but visually charming. The jar itself bore the Guerlain emblem of the “woman with flags”, and inscriptions including “Guerlain Perfumer Patented SGDG” and the boutique address, “Rue de la Paix No. 15.” Crafted by A. Pillivuyt Foecy in France, the pot measured 2.36 inches in diameter, reflecting the careful attention to both design and luxury presentation that Guerlain championed in the 19th century.

The cream’s purpose was to moisturize and freshen the complexion. A small amount massaged onto the face provided hydration while imparting a soft, natural tint, making it a precursor to modern foundation creams. Its rich, emollient composition supported the skin’s barrier while offering a subtly fragrant, sensory experience.

The ingredients reveal both the practical and indulgent qualities of 19th-century cosmetics. Sweet almond oil served as the base, a gentle, nourishing oil rich in fatty acids and vitamin E, ideal for softening and protecting delicate facial skin. Water provided moisture, helping the cream spread easily, while white wax and spermaceti (a wax derived from sperm whales) added structure, creating a smooth, thick consistency that could adhere to the skin evenly. Lanolin, extracted from sheep’s wool, offered additional emollience and water-retaining properties, making the cream protective and soothing.

The fragrant elements elevated the cream into a luxurious ritual. Ripe strawberries contributed a light, sweet aroma and perhaps mild astringent properties. Tincture of benzoin, a resin, imparted a warm, balsamic note while providing mild antiseptic benefits. Oil of lemon and oil of neroli added bright, fresh citrus-floral accents, which lifted the sensory profile and subtly refreshed the complexion.

From a dermatological perspective, most ingredients were benign and nourishing for the skin. Almond oil, lanolin, and spermaceti were soothing and protective, while the waxes allowed the cream to remain in place without heavy occlusion. Benzoin and essential oils were used sparingly, adding fragrance and mild antiseptic qualities, though in higher concentrations they could cause irritation—fortunately, formulations of this period were balanced to avoid harshness.

In practice, Crème à la Fraise would have been applied before powder or other cosmetics, serving as both a moisturizer and a light tint to even out the complexion. Its texture, fragrance, and subtle color would have conveyed elegance, freshness, and sophistication to the user, reflecting the luxury and artistry of Guerlain’s 19th-century cosmetic traditions.









Creme Sid-Ous c1910

Crème Sid-Ous, introduced by Guerlain around 1910, was one of the house’s most enduring skincare preparations, remaining available as late as 1970. Marketed as both a hand and face cream, it carried a distinctive almond scent and was formulated as a white, rich emollient cream designed to soften, protect, and beautify the skin. Its presentation was as refined as its purpose: the cream came in a porcelain pot glazed in deep cobalt blue, paired with a matching porcelain lid. The vessel itself reflected Guerlain’s early 20th-century dedication to elegance and artistry, transforming even a humble skin cream into an object of luxury.

The composition of almond creams from this period was a fascinating blend of functional dermatological agents and fragrant embellishments. Powdered Castile soap, a gentle olive oil–based soap, was often added in minute amounts to act as a mild emulsifier, helping blend oils and water into a smooth cream. Powdered boric acid, valued at the time for its antiseptic qualities, lent a cleansing effect that was believed to prevent minor blemishes or skin irritation. Powdered gum tragacanth, derived from the sap of certain legumes, acted as a natural thickener, stabilizing the cream’s texture into a silky, spreadable consistency.

To ensure hydration, glycerin and honey were incorporated, both excellent humectants that drew moisture into the skin, leaving it plump and supple. Honey also carried mild antibacterial properties, making it as therapeutic as it was nourishing. The inclusion of egg yolk, rich in fats and natural lecithin, gave the cream a luxurious emollient quality, improving skin elasticity and providing a protective layer against environmental dryness.

A suite of aromatic tinctures and oils elevated the cream into a multisensory experience. Tincture of benzoin, warm and resinous, not only preserved the cream but also calmed and soothed the skin. Oil of bitter almonds imparted the cream’s signature marzipan-like fragrance, a note that immediately suggested comfort, softness, and care. This sweetness was balanced by the lively brightness of oil of lemon and the citrus-floral sparkle of neroli, lending freshness to the blend. Meanwhile, the addition of oil of cloves, with its spicy warmth and natural antiseptic properties, provided a subtle counterpoint to the otherwise soft profile.

From a dermatological standpoint, most of the ingredients were benign for their time. The humectants, emollients, and natural oils nourished the skin, while the antiseptic agents like boric acid and clove oil offered protection. However, boric acid, though widely used in cosmetics in the 19th and early 20th centuries, is recognized today as potentially irritating with prolonged use. Similarly, essential oils like clove or lemon could sometimes cause sensitivity, though they were included in very small amounts. By the standards of its era, Crème Sid-Ous was viewed as both protective and beautifying, a preparation that combined practicality with indulgence.

Ultimately, Guerlain’s Crème Sid-Ous was more than a moisturizer. It was a ritual of self-care, a cream that soothed the hands and face while enveloping the wearer in the nostalgic, comforting sweetness of almonds and honey. Its survival into the 1970s demonstrates its timeless appeal, proof that the marriage of effective ingredients with a luxurious sensory experience never goes out of fashion.





photo by Lombrail-Teucquam







Lait de Roses c1910

Guerlain’s Lait de Roses, or “Milk of Roses,” was a toilet preparation for the skin, a type of cosmetic lotion designed to soften, brighten, and lightly perfume the complexion. Around 1910, it was offered in a refined pressed glass bottle crafted by Pochet et du Courval, a house long associated with Guerlain’s most elegant presentations. The bottle itself was an oval cylindrical form, its rounded belly divided into ten panels that caught and refracted the light. Standing 18 cm tall, it was closed with a simple cork stopper and finished with a richly baroque-styled label, its ornate design underscoring Guerlain’s reputation for marrying artistry with practicality.

The formula for Lait de Roses was both scientific and sensorial, embodying the fin-de-siècle balance between pharmacology and beauty. Salicylic acid, derived from willow bark, was included for its mild exfoliating and clarifying effects—it helped remove dull surface cells and keep the complexion smooth. Benzoic acid, often used as a preservative, also contributed to its cleansing qualities. Both were considered effective yet gentle enough for regular cosmetic use, though overuse of salicylic acid could cause dryness in sensitive skin.

The base of the preparation was rose water and glycerin, a soothing and hydrating combination. Rose water, long prized for its calming and toning effects, also left a delicate fragrance on the skin, while glycerin drew in moisture, leaving the complexion supple. To this were added alcohol and a suite of balsamic tinctures—Peru balsam, storax, and benzoin—all known for their antiseptic and healing properties. These resinous ingredients not only preserved the lotion but also created a subtle warmth in its fragrance, a soft backdrop for the floral oils.

To elevate the scent, Guerlain blended in a constellation of precious essential oils: rose, bergamot, neroli, orris, jasmine, and musk. Each lent its own nuance: rose for romantic powdery softness, bergamot for brightness, neroli for its citrus-floral freshness, orris root for its velvety, violet-like delicacy, jasmine for voluptuous sensuality, and musk for a lingering depth. Coumarin, discovered in tonka beans in the 19th century, added a sweet hay-like note that would have made the composition feel rounded and soft, while a solution of carmine imparted a gentle tint to the lotion, giving it a faint rosy cast that made it look as luxurious as it smelled.

Taken together, Lait de Roses was intended not only as a skin beautifier but also as a protective tonic, soothing minor irritations, perfuming the skin, and preparing it for powder or other cosmetics. By the standards of its time, the formula was considered benign and beneficial, a far cry from harsher skin treatments of earlier decades that often contained lead or mercury. Though today certain ingredients like musk (then natural, now banned in perfumery for ethical reasons) or balsams could pose allergenic risks, in its era Lait de Roses was seen as both safe and highly refined—a perfect example of Guerlain’s blending of dermatological care with perfumed luxury.









Rouge de la Cour c1910

Rouge de la Cour by Guerlain, introduced in the mid-19th century, represents one of the earliest examples of luxury cosmetics from the house. Remarkably, it remained in production well into the early 20th century, still appearing in Guerlain’s catalogs around 1910. In official listings it was sold under the name Court Rouge, but it became better known by the evocative nickname rouge en tasse, or “pink saucers.” In Guerlain’s stock catalog, this elegant little item was recorded as #434, a testament to its longstanding presence in the brand’s repertoire.

The pink saucers were also referred to as rouge de théâtre, pointing to their popularity not only among fashionable ladies but also with actresses who relied on bold cosmetics for stage appearances. The formula was simple yet effective: carthamus rouge (a vegetal dye extracted from safflower petals) or carmine (a pigment derived from cochineal insects) formed the base of the color. To give the mixture texture and adherence, it was blended with a few drops of almond oil for smoothness and nourishment, and bound together with the mucilage of gum tragacanth, a natural plant gum that provided a soft, gel-like consistency. The finished paste was carefully spread across small disks of porcelain or glass, creating the distinctive “saucer” presentation.

To apply the rouge, women had a variety of methods at their disposal. Some preferred the simplicity of using their fingertips, while others reached for a tiny puff, a scrap of flannel, a cotton swab, or a fine brush to blend the color onto the cheeks. The result was a flush of lively pink that mimicked the healthy radiance of youth and gave a fashionable brightness to the complexion. At a time when cosmetics were often controversial or associated with the stage, Guerlain’s Rouge de la Cour managed to tread the line between refinement and theatricality, capturing the allure of both courtly elegance and the daring world of performance.

original image from a Guerlain catalog




photo by Lombrail-Teucquam


Cheek rouge, pressed into small glass pot. c1880-1915. Photo from imworld.aufeminin



Saturday, July 27, 2013

Jardins de Bagatelle 1983

Jardins de Bagatelle by Guerlain, launched in 1983, is a perfume that captures the essence of Parisian elegance, opulence, and the joyful exuberance of a sun-drenched garden. The name—Jardins de Bagatelle, pronounced "Zhar-dan de Ba-ga-tel"—translates literally from French as “Gardens of Bagatelle,” referencing the famous Bagatelle Garden in Paris’ Bois de Boulogne, created in 1775 by the Comte d’Artois as a hunting retreat. The word bagatelle itself means “a trifle” or “a thing made for pleasure,” immediately evoking notions of delight, leisure, and indulgence. To the imagination, it suggests lush rose gardens, cascading blossoms, sunlight on sculpted lawns, and the playful charm of ornamental flowers. It is a name that conveys sophistication yet retains an air of whimsy—a fitting metaphor for a fragrance that is both radiant and luxurious.

Launched during the early 1980s, Jardins de Bagatelle reflects a period in perfumery known for bold, high-impact compositions. The decade was marked by excess and exuberance: fashion was characterized by strong silhouettes, bright colors, and an air of glamour; perfumes mirrored this with intense sillage and complex bouquets. Jean-Paul Guerlain created a fragrance for women who wished to celebrate both pleasure and seduction, offering a perfume that blossoms like an opulent floral garden and radiates joy, energy, and feminine sophistication. Women of the era, drawn to powerful floral scents, would have immediately recognized the fragrance as a statement perfume—luxurious, confident, and celebratory of the senses.

In scent, Jardins de Bagatelle opens with a sparkling, airy burst of white flowers, including neroli, jasmine, and gardenia, which impart luminous, radiant top notes. Neroli, distilled from the blossoms of bitter orange trees, gives a fresh, slightly honeyed floral lift, while jasmine offers a creamy, narcotic warmth, rich in indoles that enhance its skin-like sensuality. Gardenia adds a velvety, tropical depth, its natural coumarins providing a soft sweetness and texture. The heart of the fragrance is a bouquet of white florals over a base of tuberose, which, while historically known as “poisonous” in legend, here adds a captivating, aphrodisiac-like intensity. The tuberose is rich, narcotic, and radiant, lingering on the skin with an almost magnetic pull.

The base of Jardins de Bagatelle grounds the exuberant florals with woody notes of cedar, giving the fragrance structure, depth, and a subtle dry elegance. The combination of a radiant white floral heart and warm, slightly earthy woods exemplifies the 80s penchant for audacious, opulent florals, yet Guerlain tempers it with finesse, ensuring that the perfume is not merely loud but balanced, harmonious, and luminous.

Jardins de Bagatelle, in the context of 1980s perfumery, fits beautifully within the era’s trends of bold florals but remains distinctive through its complex layering, luminosity, and storytelling. It evokes a walk through the historic Bagatelle gardens, where every bloom is celebrated, and where pleasure and elegance are inseparable. More than a fragrance, it is a perfumed celebration of joie de vivre, offering women both a sense of power and a luxurious sensory escape—a true testament to Guerlain’s mastery of floral artistry.





From Guerlain:
"Jardins de Bagatelle is for women who always perfume themselves for the pleasure of seduction as well as for their own pleasure and enjoyment. These gardens are redolent with a multitude of white flowers, varieties of rose, hyacinths, daffodils and narcissus of exceptional luminosity, to the great delight of anyone who loves nature. 
Floral. Joyous, luminous, captivating. 
Jardins de Bagatelle is an airy and luminous essence, a sparkling fragrance. The heart is a real bouquet of white flowers (neroli, jasmine and gardenia) celebrating joie de vivre over a base of poisonous tuberose underscored with woody notes. Jardins de Bagatelle blossoms over a tuberose base. This raw material also has aphrodisiac powers. In the time of Louis XVI, its scent filled the air in the King's court to identify any unwed pregnant women: these women would faint under the effect of this poisonous flower!"


Fragrance Composition:



So what does it smell like? The vintage version (1985-1989) is classified as a floral fragrance for women. It begins with a fresh flowery top, followed by a luxurious floral heart, resting on a floral woody base. Named after the legendary garden for lovers in Paris, this floral blend includes rose, tuberose, gardenia, magnolia, jasmine, neroli, absolute of orange blossom with a woody base.
  • Top notes: aldehydes, flower calyx notes, lemon, violet, neroli, bergamot
  • Middle notes: gardenia,  jasmine, Provencal rose, orange blossom, tuberose, magnolia, ylang ylang, narcissus, orris, orchid, lily of the valley
  • Base notes: cedar, vetiver, patchouli, musk, civet, benzoin, tonka bean

Scent Profile:


Jardins de Bagatelle (vintage version 1985–1989) is a luminous celebration of white and garden-fresh florals, capturing the spirit of Parisian elegance and the opulent romance of the legendary Bagatelle gardens. From the very first moment, the top notes burst forth with a sparkling clarity. Aldehydes create a clean, airy shimmer, evoking sunlight glinting off dewy petals and lending a subtle soapy brilliance that enhances the natural floral ingredients. The flower calyx notes provide green, lightly vegetal nuances, as if you can smell the tender base of the blossoms themselves. 

Citrus top notes of lemon, bergamot, and neroli contribute a radiant freshness: bergamot from Calabria delivers sparkling brightness and sweet-bitter complexity, neroli from Tunisia or Morocco adds a honeyed, slightly bitter floral nuance, and lemon enhances the effervescence with crisp citric clarity. Violet adds a delicate powdery green softness, harmonizing the sparkling citrus and setting the stage for the heart.

The heart of Jardins de Bagatelle is a voluptuous floral bouquet, lush and multilayered. Gardenia brings a creamy, tropical floral richness, with natural coumarins providing soft, warm sweetness. Tuberose, highly narcotic in character, fills the air with its intoxicating, slightly animalic creaminess, the natural indoles lending a sensual, skin-like depth. Jasmine adds its opulent warmth, full of honeyed and indolic nuances, while Provencal rose contributes a velvety, dewy elegance, rich in geraniol and citronellol. 

Orange blossom absolute enhances the radiance, its soft, sweet, citrus-floral facets creating a luminous halo. Magnolia, ylang ylang, narcissus, orchid, orris, and lily of the valley layer additional complexity, with magnolia offering creamy floral lightness, ylang ylang lending exotic, slightly fruity warmth, narcissus adding soft animalic facets, orris giving powdery elegance, and lily of the valley contributing a transparent, green-floral delicacy. Together, these middle notes evoke the sensation of walking through a sun-drenched, fragrant garden, where every flower is at the height of bloom.

The base provides structure, warmth, and sensuality, grounding the exuberant florals with woody and resinous depth. Cedar imparts a dry, aromatic woodiness, while vetiver adds earthy complexity and a subtly smoky undertone. Patchouli contributes sweet, balsamic depth and a gentle, lingering warmth. The animalic accents of musk and civet enhance the skin-like sensuality, giving the florals a natural intimate trail. Rich resins like benzoin and the sweet warmth of tonka bean create a soft, enveloping finish, adding both longevity and a subtly gourmand nuance that contrasts beautifully with the brightness of the top and the richness of the heart.

Smelling Jardins de Bagatelle from first spritz to dry down is like strolling through a meticulously curated Parisian garden at the height of spring, where sunlight dances across petals, flowers release intoxicating, layered fragrances, and a gentle breeze carries the scent of earth and woods in the background. The vintage formula is rich, luminous, and balanced, showcasing Guerlain’s mastery of blending florals with green, citrus, woody, and animalic elements—each ingredient contributing its unique aroma chemicals, from the indoles of jasmine and tuberose that create narcotic depth, to aldehydes that amplify floral brilliance, to the balsamic and vanillin notes of tonka and benzoin that round and anchor the composition. This perfume exemplifies the 1980s floral powerhouse trend, yet it remains refined, elegant, and joyously expressive.


2010 Version:


  • Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, lemon, neroli, lilac
  • Middle notes: Provence rose, jasmine, gardenia, tuberose, orange blossom, magnolia, ylang ylang, narcissus
  • Base notes: patchouli, cedarwood, vetiver, tonka bean, benzoin, musk

Jardins de Bagatelle (modern reformulation, circa 2010) opens with a sparkling, luminous top that immediately conveys brightness and clarity. The aldehydes create a clean, shimmering veil, enhancing the freshness of the florals in a more linear, less complex way than the vintage formula. The citrus notes—bergamot from Calabria, lemon, and neroli—offer their familiar radiant brightness: bergamot brings a slightly bitter-sweet lift, neroli contributes a honeyed floral sharpness, and lemon injects crisp, sparkling effervescence. Lilac adds a gentle, green-floral softness, lightly powdery, which brightens the top notes but is less earthy and texturally nuanced than the violet and flower calyx notes found in the vintage 1985–1989 version. This modern opening is more immediately cheerful and radiant, but some of the subtle “green shadow” of a garden morning present in the vintage version feels softened or diminished.

In the heart, the modern formula still celebrates a lush bouquet of white and pastel florals, with Provence rose, jasmine, gardenia, tuberose, orange blossom, magnolia, ylang ylang, and narcissus forming the core. The Provence rose is soft and elegant, delivering a familiar floral warmth but with a cleaner, less opulent body than the vintage rose, which had more depth from geraniol, citronellol, and the Bouvardia base that added a subtle green-fruity nuance. Jasmine and tuberose remain narcotic and creamy, but in the modern formula they are slightly less dense; the indolic qualities are muted, so the scent feels brighter and more linear. Gardenia adds its creamy, tropical character, and orange blossom absolute continues to provide a luminous halo, though the addition of synthetics like hydroxycitronellal or a modern jasmine accord may give the florals a slightly more transparent, polished feel. Magnolia and ylang ylang bring gentle exotic facets, while narcissus provides its characteristic soft animalic and honeyed aroma, though again less rich and earthy than in the original. Overall, the heart is airy, cheerful, and opulent in a cleaner sense, less textured with leafy or green nuances than the vintage.

The base in the modern reformulation emphasizes smooth, polished warmth rather than the earthy complexity of the vintage formula. Patchouli, cedarwood, and vetiver form a woody backbone, but they are lighter, with less of the subtle dry earthiness or smoky undertones present in the original. Tonka bean and benzoin contribute a creamy, sweet balsamic richness, while musk rounds the composition with soft, intimate sensuality. The vintage formula had civet and subtle aldehyde-boosted earthiness, which lent the fragrance a more natural, garden-like depth; this is largely absent in the modern version. The overall impression is bright, radiant, and clean, with a polished floral-woody base rather than a complex, earthy garden floor character.

Comparison with the vintage version reveals that the modern Jardins de Bagatelle feels lighter, brighter, and more linear, with a luminous, almost airy quality. It emphasizes the sparkling florals and citruses, whereas the vintage 1985–1989 formula provided a richer, more layered experience: deeper green and powdery nuances in the top, more indolic, creamy depth in the heart, and earthy, animalic undertones in the base. In essence, the modern version favors clarity, brightness, and accessibility, while the vintage offers textural complexity, richness, and a sense of a real Parisian garden with all its natural intricacies. Both are beautiful, but the vintage feels like a walk through a sun-dappled garden with soil, leaves, and flowers mingling, while the modern feels like a sunlit bouquet in a crystal vase: radiant, joyous, and immediately captivating.


Product Line:


Jardins de Bagatelle, initially launched as an eau de toilette, quickly became more than just a fragrance—it evolved into a complete sensorial experience by the mid-1980s. Recognizing the desire for a cohesive personal care ritual, Guerlain expanded the line by 1986 to include a range of bath and body products, allowing the signature luminous floral bouquet to envelop the skin in multiple forms. Each product was carefully designed to echo the radiant floral composition of the original eau de toilette, ensuring a seamless transition from fragrance to skincare.

The Concentrated Bath Oil offered a luxurious way to immerse oneself in the fragrance. A few drops dispersed in warm water released the luminous notes of neroli, tuberose, jasmine, and rose, while the oils left the skin soft and lightly perfumed. Complementing this, the Body Shampoo allowed for a delicate cleansing experience, the foaming lather releasing the sparkling aldehydic top notes along with the creamy floral heart, while leaving a subtle trace of the woody base on the skin.

Body Lotion and Body Cream extended the fragrance experience further, providing a soft, silky layer of hydration while gently infusing the skin with the floral-woody bouquet. The lotion offered a lighter, more immediate scent for everyday wear, while the richer cream lingered longer, emphasizing the depth of patchouli, cedar, and tonka bean present in the base.

For those who preferred more traditional cleansing, Bath Soap delivered the signature scent in a solid format, pairing gentle cleansing with the luminous floral character, while Talc allowed for a delicate powdery finish, leaving the skin with a soft, radiant veil reminiscent of a stroll through the Bagatelle gardens at dawn.

Guerlain also introduced perfumed deodorant options: the Mist, Spray, and Eau Déodorante. Each provided a subtle, refreshing layer of fragrance, allowing women to carry the luminous, joyful floral bouquet discreetly throughout the day. These products ensured that Jardins de Bagatelle was no longer simply a perfume but a complete olfactory lifestyle, allowing women to experience the garden’s radiant blossoms from bath to body care, reflecting Guerlain’s philosophy of integrating luxury fragrance into every aspect of daily life.

The absence of an extrait (parfum) kept the line more approachable and versatile, focusing on luminous, wearable florals rather than an intensely concentrated statement. This made the fragrance ideal for layering across multiple products, giving women the freedom to customize the intensity of their Jardins de Bagatelle experience while maintaining a consistent, radiant floral aura.



Bottles:


Presented in the Jardins de Bagatelle flacon, designed by Robert Granai. The original bottle has a smoke tinted stopper and cap, later editions have a completely clear cap/stopper. The Jardins de Bagatelle bottle was manufactured by two glassmakers: Saint-Gobain Desjonquères and Pochet et du Courval.

But by 2013, this bottle was replaced by the bee atomizer bottle.

Abandoning the late 1960s- early 1980s white and black zig zag box design for the black and gold box design that began with the introduction of Jardins de Bagatelle, Guerlain adopted this design to package fragrances which became the signature box style for the rest of the 1980s up until the early 2000s.


Fate of the Fragrance:


Jardins de Bagatelle Eau de Parfum (2021) a reformulation. It is classified as a floral fragrance for women. 
  • Top note: bergamot
  • Middle notes: tuberose, jasmine, neroli and gardenia
  • Base notes: woody notes


Jardins de Bagatelle Eau de Toilette (2021) a reformulation. It is classified as a floral fragrance for women. 
  • Top note:  bergamot
  • Middle notes: tuberose, jasmine, neroli and gardenia
  • Base notes: woody notes

Poudre aux Ballons c1918

In 1918, Guerlain introduced Poudre aux Ballons, a scented face powder that perfectly blended history, romance, and artistry. Released as part of the house’s centennial celebrations, it was more than just a cosmetic—it was a poetic tribute to Guerlain’s origins in 1828 and to Paris itself. Each powder was delicately perfumed with some of Guerlain’s most celebrated fragrances of the time, including the luminous L’Heure Bleue, allowing the product to bridge the worlds of makeup and fine perfume in one charming gesture.

The packaging was a miniature work of art. The lid displayed a trio of cherubic angels drifting dreamily from a hot air balloon, evoking lightness, whimsy, and the joy of ascension. Around the sides of the box stretched a panoramic illustration of Paris as it appeared in 1828, highlighting two landmarks that spoke directly to Guerlain’s story: the Arc de Triomphe and the house’s very first perfumery at the Barrière de l'Etoile. Above the cityscape, other hot air balloons floated gracefully, creating a sense of both festivity and nostalgia. The box itself, crafted of polychromed paper-covered cardboard, measured 2.8 inches in diameter by 2.1 inches tall—an intimate size that fit easily in a vanity or travel case, making it a personal object of beauty.

The imagery held a deeper significance than mere decoration. Guerlain drew inspiration from the balloon posts of 1870–71, when during the siege of Paris by the Prussians, hot air balloons were used as the first form of airmail to carry messages, news, and pleas for help beyond the city walls. Between September 23, 1870, and January 28, 1871, 67 balloons departed Paris, braving hostile skies to keep communication alive. By referencing this moment of resilience and ingenuity, Guerlain not only celebrated the spirit of Paris but also underscored its own enduring place in the city’s cultural history.

Poudre aux Ballons thus combined fragrance, art, and memory into a single exquisite creation. It was a powder meant not only to beautify the face but to remind its wearer of Guerlain’s proud past, Parisian innovation, and the timeless poetry of rising into the sky.






Thursday, July 25, 2013

La Petite Robe Noire Lingerie Mist c2013

La Petite Robe Noire Eau de Lingerie was launched in 2013 as an exclusive and playful extension of Guerlain’s beloved La Petite Robe Noire collection. Created by in-house perfumer Thierry Wasser, this limited-edition mist was designed specifically to perfume delicate fabrics—lingerie, silks, and dresses—bringing an intimate touch of luxury into a woman’s wardrobe. It was not merely a fragrance to be worn on the skin but a scented veil to accompany a woman’s most cherished garments, making the act of dressing a ritual of elegance and sensuality.

The composition itself is rooted in the signature La Petite Robe Noire fragrance, translated into a lighter, more ethereal interpretation suited for fabric. It opens with the juicy tartness of black cherry, whose natural aroma compounds like benzaldehyde and anthocyanins lend a fruity, slightly almond-like sweetness. This brightness is uplifted by a dash of bergamot, the prized citrus from Calabria, Italy, known for its refined balance of zesty freshness and floral sweetness thanks to naturally occurring linalyl acetate and limonene. At the heart rests the timeless rose, a cornerstone of Guerlain’s perfumery, releasing soft, velvety petals with notes of geraniol and citronellol that bloom against the air with grace and refinement. Together, these elements create a fragrance that is vibrant yet delicate, one designed to enhance rather than overwhelm fabric.

The packaging reflects the whimsical spirit of the La Petite Robe Noire line. The 100ml spray bottle is adorned with a charming illustration by Kuntzel + Deygas, the celebrated artist duo who also shaped the fragrance’s iconic advertising campaign. Their artwork captures the chic silhouette of the little black dress, evoking effortless Parisian style. Priced at 59 euros, it was positioned as an accessible yet sophisticated indulgence—an everyday luxury that elevated the simple act of wearing clothes into a perfumed gesture of allure.

More than a mist, La Petite Robe Noire Eau de Lingerie embodied Guerlain’s knack for weaving heritage, artistry, and modern femininity into objects of desire. It invited women to scent not only themselves but also their most intimate apparel, enveloping their daily rituals in a delicate aura of Parisian glamour.

Guerlain's Talc de Toilette

 Guerlain's Talc de Toilette was housed inside of a tin enameled in blue, off white and black.