Shalimar - Indes & Merveilles Deluxe Flacon 2013

The 2013 deluxe edition of Shalimar, titled “Indes & Merveilles”—which translates to “India and Wonders”—is a breathtaking tribute to the perfume’s legendary inspiration: the splendor and romance of India. This exceptional creation was unveiled to coincide with the launch of Guerlain’s short film La Légende de Shalimar, a cinematic retelling of the love story between Emperor Shah Jahan and his beloved Mumtaz Mahal, the muse behind the fragrance itself.

For this occasion, Guerlain collaborated with renowned Parisian jewelry designer Sylvia Toledano, who envisioned the flacon as a true objet d’art. She designed a sumptuous 24-karat matte-finished gold mounting that traces and accentuates the elegant curves of the iconic Shalimar bottle. Every inch of the metalwork is lavishly encrusted with a constellation of semi-precious stones, sourced from Jaipur, India’s “Pink City,” long celebrated for its gemstone artistry. The rich blue of lapis lazuli, the regal violet of amethyst, the deep orange glow of carnelian, the verdant tones of malachite, the amber warmth of tiger’s eye, and the luminous transparency of yellow and pink quartz combine to form a jewel-like mosaic—an homage to the opulent Mughal aesthetic that first inspired Shalimar.

The bottle itself holds 1.5 litres of Shalimar parfum, the most luxurious and concentrated form of the fragrance, radiating the lush sensuality of bergamot, vanilla, iris, and tonka. Only 48 numbered pieces were produced, making it a true collector’s treasure. Priced at 9,500 euros (approximately $13,052 USD), Indes & Merveilles is more than a perfume—it is an art piece, shimmering with the poetry of India and the timeless grandeur of Guerlain’s legacy.

La Petite Robe Noire Giant Factice 2012

In the spring of 2012, the esteemed French glassmaker Waltersperger once again partnered with Guerlain, this time to craft a giant factice bottle for the grand launch of La Petite Robe Noire—one of the house’s most anticipated modern releases. The factice was designed after Guerlain’s legendary “Bouchon Cœur” flacon, a bottle whose heart-shaped stopper has become an enduring symbol of feminine allure and Parisian elegance.

Reimagined on a monumental scale, the Waltersperger creation retained all the delicate proportions and signature curves of the original bottle first conceived by Raymond Guerlain in 1912 for L’Heure Bleue. The heart-shaped stopper, emblematic of romance and sophistication, was meticulously reproduced in glass, while the bottle’s voluptuous shoulders and graceful contours shimmered with light, celebrating the harmony of transparency and reflection.

The giant factice served as the centerpiece of Guerlain’s boutique windows and event displays, embodying the spirit of La Petite Robe Noire—the “little black dress” of fragrance. Just as a perfectly cut dress transforms its wearer with effortless chic, the perfume was conceived as a modern classic, combining playful charm with timeless style. Waltersperger’s artistry captured that essence, transforming glass into a sculptural icon of Parisian glamour—youthful, coquettish, and irresistibly elegant.

Standing as a symbol of Guerlain’s heritage and creative continuity, the Waltersperger Bouchon Cœur factice not only celebrated the debut of La Petite Robe Noire but also paid homage to a century of craftsmanship and the enduring love affair between Guerlain and the art of French glassmaking.

Shalimar Parfum Initial Giant Factice 2011

In the spring of 2011, the historic French glassmaker Waltersperger was commissioned by Guerlain to create a monumental giant factice bottle to celebrate the launch of Shalimar Parfum Initial. This striking display piece paid tribute not only to Guerlain’s most iconic fragrance heritage but also to the artistry of traditional French glass craftsmanship.

Waltersperger, based in the glassmaking region of Normandy, has long been renowned for its expertise in producing luxury perfume flacons and crystal objets d’art. For this special commission, the challenge lay in scaling up the legendary Shalimar bottle—originally designed by Raymond Guerlain in 1925—to an impressive display size, while preserving every sensual curve and architectural detail of the original. The result was a magnificent oversized flacon, perfectly proportioned, its glass walls gleaming with clarity and strength, and its form capturing the timeless elegance of the original design.

The giant factice bottle mirrored the spirit of Shalimar Parfum Initial, a fragrance composed by Thierry Wasser as a modern reimagining of the classic Shalimar—softer, luminous, and more youthful, yet still imbued with the romantic sensuality of the original. Waltersperger’s craftsmanship lent physical form to that same concept: a breathtakingly modern reinterpretation of a historic masterpiece.

Displayed in Guerlain boutiques and at press events, the Waltersperger factice served as both a technical marvel and a visual symbol—an emblem of Guerlain’s enduring legacy and its seamless dialogue between tradition and innovation.

Shalimar 7.5ml Bottle by Waltersperger 2010

In 2010, Guerlain reaffirmed its dedication to traditional French craftsmanship by entrusting the historic glassworks Waltersperger with the creation of the bottles for its two Shalimar perfume extracts, available in 7.5 ml and 15 ml sizes. Waltersperger, a century-old glass manufacturer located in the heart of the glassmaking region of Normandy, is renowned for its mastery of fine, small-scale production—particularly the crafting of luxury flacons and crystal objets d’art.

Each Shalimar bottle produced by Waltersperger exemplifies a blend of precision and artistry. True to Guerlain’s heritage, the design captures the sensual curves of the original Shalimar flacon, first conceived by Raymond Guerlain and inspired by the fountains of the Shalimar Gardens in Lahore. Waltersperger’s skilled artisans employ traditional hand-blowing and molding techniques, ensuring that each piece possesses a subtle individuality—the delicate variations of glass thickness, the clarity, and the play of light on its surface—all of which lend a sense of authenticity and refinement.

The smaller 7.5 ml and 15 ml extrait bottles preserve the intimate, jewel-like proportions of vintage perfume presentations, meant to hold the most concentrated and precious form of Shalimar’s essence. Their creation by Waltersperger not only reflects Guerlain’s ongoing commitment to excellence in craftsmanship but also serves as a celebration of France’s enduring artisanal traditions. Through this collaboration, Shalimar—a perfume synonymous with luxury, romance, and history—continues to be encased in glass as exquisite as the fragrance it protects.

Extrait de Gaultheria c1843

Extrait de Gaulthéria (pronounced ex-tray deh goal-THAY-ree-ah) was launched by Pierre-François-Pascal Guerlain in 1843, a period when Paris was becoming the beating heart of European luxury, refinement, and modernity. The name itself translates from French as “Extract of Wintergreen,” referencing the essential oil obtained from Gaultheria procumbens, a small evergreen plant native to the forests of North America, known colloquially as the teaberry or partridge berry. The use of the French word “extrait” lent the perfume an air of sophistication and concentration—suggesting a precious essence rather than a mere scented water.

To the 19th-century ear, Extrait de Gaulthéria would have evoked the allure of the exotic New World—wild, untamed landscapes of evergreen forests, snow, and crisp mountain air. The very sound of the name—soft, lyrical, and faintly botanical—carries a sense of freshness and purity. At a time when travel and global exploration were romantic ideals, Guerlain’s choice of a North American plant spoke to the fascination with faraway natural wonders. The oil of wintergreen, rich in methyl salicylate, was treasured for its sharp, minty-sweet aroma, reminiscent of crushed leaves, cool air, and polished wood. In perfumery, this note would have conveyed clarity and vitality—an invigorating freshness quite distinct from the heavy, musky compositions that often dominated early 19th-century perfumery.

When Guerlain introduced Extrait de Gaulthéria, France was in the midst of the July Monarchy (1830–1848)—an era of urban elegance and growing prosperity among the bourgeoisie. Parisian women of fashion were embracing lighter fabrics, high-waisted gowns, and bonnets adorned with ribbons and feathers. Personal grooming and scent had become essential elements of refinement; perfumed waters, vinegars, and extracts were as vital as jewelry or gloves. To such women, Extrait de Gaulthéria would have felt delightfully modern—crisp, hygienic, and a touch daring, given its herbal character and unusual origin. Its cooling, refreshing nature also suited the Victorian fascination with health and purity, ideals mirrored in Guerlain’s early “toilet waters” and functional fragrances designed to soothe, invigorate, or cleanse.

In scent, Extrait de Gaulthéria would have opened with an unmistakable brightness—an aromatic chill like the first breath of winter. The dominant note, wintergreen, blends a medicinal sharpness with a sweet balsamic undertone, both cooling and comforting at once. Beneath this invigorating top note, hints of soft floral and oriental elements likely unfolded—perhaps a bouquet of delicate white flowers sweetened with vanilla or benzoin, lending warmth to balance the crisp herbal edge. This duality—fresh yet sensuous—captured Guerlain’s emerging genius for contrast, a balance between refinement and sensual pleasure that would define his later masterpieces.

In the context of its time, Extrait de Gaulthéria stood at the intersection of fashion and function. Many perfumers of the 1840s created wintergreen-based preparations—often as scented waters, liniments, or aromatic extracts—but Guerlain’s interpretation elevated it to the realm of art. Where others offered simple medicinal or hygienic products, Guerlain transformed the raw material into a refined floral oriental fragrance, suitable for a lady’s dressing table as much as her toilette. It reflected his ability to blend practicality with poetry—turning a familiar botanical essence into an object of beauty, luxury, and emotion.

To wear Extrait de Gaulthéria in 1843 would have been to surround oneself with the scent of polished freshness, as though nature’s own clarity had been distilled into a bottle. It was both a whisper of the forests of the New World and a reflection of the new sophistication of modern Paris—a fragrance that embodied Guerlain’s earliest understanding of what perfume could be: a bridge between the natural and the sublime.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Extrait de Gaultheria is classified as a floral oriental fragrance for women.

• Top notes: wintergreen, cassie, lavender
• Middle notes: rose, orange blossom
• Base notes:  ambergris, vetiver, vanilla

Scent Profile:

Extrait de Gaulthéria opens with a sensation as bracing and clear as breathing in the mountain air after a snowfall. The first impression is dominated by wintergreen, distilled from Gaultheria procumbens—a small evergreen shrub native to the cool forests of North America. Its essential oil, rich in methyl salicylate, imparts a penetrating, minty sweetness that immediately awakens the senses. The note is cool yet comforting, like crushed leaves underfoot on a crisp morning. There is a faint medicinal edge to its freshness—clean, camphorous, and alive—balanced by a subtle sweetness that softens the austerity of its bite. This is not merely freshness for its own sake; it carries a silken depth, the green echo of the forest’s heart, enlivening the composition with both purity and character.

Intertwined with this cooling note comes cassie, the golden blossom of Acacia farnesiana, often sourced from the south of France. Its scent—powdery, honeyed, and softly animalic—wraps around the sharpness of wintergreen like sunlight filtering through frost. The presence of benzyl alcohol and anisic aldehyde within cassie gives it its distinctive warmth and gentle spiciness, bridging the green sharpness of the opening to the floral heart that follows. Alongside, a thread of lavender unfurls—an aromatic breath from Provence, crisp and herbaceous, its linalool and linalyl acetate molecules adding a round, soapy elegance. Together, these top notes form a vivid contrast: wintergreen’s crystalline chill tempered by the tender warmth of cassie and lavender’s aromatic poise.

As the fragrance settles, the heart blooms with grace and sensuality. A velvety rose note emerges—perhaps the lush centifolia from Grasse or the damask rose from Bulgaria—rich in citronellol and geraniol, both of which lend their natural sweetness and faint lemony glow. The rose seems to pulse with life, its dewy freshness melding with a powdery warmth that speaks of timeless femininity. Orange blossom, distilled from the flowers of the bitter orange tree, brings a luminous radiance to the blend. Originating from Tunisia or Morocco, this ingredient adds a creamy floralcy laced with linalool and nerolidol, molecules that lend transparency and a soft green sparkle. A trace of synthetic enhancement—perhaps a whisper of aldehydic orange blossom or modern musks—would subtly lift these natural florals, ensuring their radiance lingers far longer than nature alone could allow.

As the perfume deepens, the base unfolds with quiet opulence. The presence of ambergris—that rare, ocean-born treasure—introduces a salty, animalic warmth that softens the sharper edges of the top and heart. Its natural compound ambroxan, replicated synthetically in modern perfumery, extends its radiance, diffusing the scent like soft light through silk. Vetiver, likely from Haiti, adds its distinctive earthy-woody tone—rooty, slightly smoky, with hints of damp soil and green freshness. Its molecular components—vetiverol, vetiveryl acetate, and khusimol—create a dry, sensual foundation that balances the sweetness above. Finally, vanilla completes the perfume’s transformation. Whether derived from Madagascar pods or tinctured in alcohol as was traditional in the 19th century, it lends a smooth, balsamic warmth, rich in vanillin and coumarinic undertones. Its soft sweetness wraps around the other ingredients like velvet, ensuring the perfume finishes not with sharpness, but with a lingering, gentle caress.

In its full evolution, Extrait de Gaulthéria moves from the cool clarity of forest air to the warmth of skin and sun—a journey from brightness to intimacy. It is both invigorating and comforting, alive with contrast: the chill of mint and the heat of spice, the innocence of flowers and the sensuality of amber and vanilla. Smelling it feels like stepping from the wintry woods into the welcoming glow of a fireside salon, a reflection of 19th-century elegance itself—poised between nature and refinement, science and romance.

Bottles:

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown.

Eau Aromatique de Montpellier c1830

Eau Aromatique de Montpellier (1830) was one of the earliest creations by Pierre-François-Pascal Guerlain, crafted during an era when perfumery was still deeply intertwined with the art of medicine and personal hygiene. The name, Eau Aromatique de Montpellier—pronounced “oh ah-roh-mah-teek duh Mon-pehl-yeh”—translates from French as “Aromatic Water of Montpellier.” It paid tribute to the southern French city of Montpellier, long celebrated for its medical school, botanical gardens, and ancient perfumery tradition. By invoking this name, Guerlain linked his composition to a lineage of refined, health-giving waters, suggesting both purity and sophistication.

To early 19th-century sensibilities, Eau Aromatique de Montpellier would have conjured images of sunlit herbal gardens, citrus groves by the Mediterranean, and the apothecary tables of learned physicians, where fragrant botanicals were prized for their healing virtues. The early 1830s were part of France’s Romantic era, when the pursuit of beauty, refinement, and emotional depth coexisted with a scientific curiosity about the natural world. Fashion favored elegance and restraint—silks in subdued colors, bonnets trimmed with lace, and faintly perfumed gloves. Perfume was not yet the overtly sensual luxury it would later become under Napoleon III; instead, it was valued for its freshness, cleanliness, and moral virtue. A fragrance named Eau Aromatique de Montpellier would have appealed to both men and women of good taste—ladies seeking refinement and gentlemen desiring a polished appearance.

In scent, Eau Aromatique de Montpellier was a spicy citrus floral composition, luminous yet gently piquant. It combined sparkling notes of citrus peel and aromatic herbs—lemon, orange,bergamot and orange blossom—with tender floral elements that softened the brisk opening. The base, built on animalic musky undertones, anchored the freshness in something warm and enduring. Its dual nature—a fragrance that was both luxurious and functional—made it widely admired among European elites, earning the affectionate nickname Eau des Souverains (“Water of Sovereigns”). It was praised not only for its refined scent but for its practical virtues: it softened and brightened the skin, prevented irritation, and was especially esteemed by gentlemen after shaving, when the skin required a soothing touch.

When compared with other perfumes of its time, Eau Aromatique de Montpellier was both in harmony with contemporary tastes and ahead of its age. It aligned with the 19th-century fascination with aromatic waters, yet Guerlain’s creation elevated the form through greater sophistication, balance, and artistry. Later, in 1930, Jacques Guerlain would reformulate it, preserving its refreshing soul while infusing it with the elegance and depth characteristic of the modern Guerlain style.

Ultimately, Eau Aromatique de Montpellier embodied the intersection of refinement and well-being, a fragrance that whispered of health, intellect, and quiet luxury—a fitting beginning for the house that would one day define French perfumery itself.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Eau Aromatique de Montpellier is classified as a spicy citrus floral fragrance. It has been described as "being in a garden full of flowers in full bloom."

• Top notes: bergamot, orange, lemon, orange blossom  
• Middle notes: tuberose, rose, clove, cinnamon
• Base notes: rose, ambergris, musk

Scent Profile:

Eau Aromatique de Montpellier unfolds like a morning walk through a Mediterranean garden after rain—alive with sunlight, greenery, and the hum of blossoms. The fragrance belongs to the spicy citrus floral family, and every note within it contributes to an elegant choreography of brightness and warmth, of freshness anchored by sensual depth.

At the first breath, the top notes burst open with bergamot, orange, and lemon, a triumvirate of citrus that instantly uplifts. Guerlain’s bergamot, likely from Calabria in southern Italy, carries a distinctive sparkle—its essential oil rich in linalyl acetate and linalool, which lend the scent its silky, floral-citrus roundness. Unlike harsher citruses, Calabrian bergamot possesses a refined balance of tartness and sweetness, a hallmark that makes it prized in fine perfumery. The orange, possibly from Seville, brings a sun-warmed juiciness with a slightly bitter edge from limonene, a molecule responsible for the bright, effervescent freshness that makes the opening shimmer. Lemon oil, bursting with citral and β-pinene, adds crystalline clarity—sharp yet fleeting, like light glancing off water. Into this radiant blend slips orange blossom, its honeyed sweetness softening the citrus brilliance. Derived from the bitter orange tree, the essence of Neroli, especially from Tunisia, contains naturally occurring nerolidol and indole, giving the floral tone both purity and a faint, animalic warmth—an early whisper of the sensual heart to come.

As the fragrance warms on the skin, the heart unfurls a lush bouquet of tuberose and rose, intertwined with the spice of clove and cinnamon. The tuberose—often sourced from India, where the blossoms are gathered at dusk—radiates creamy opulence. It owes its narcotic richness to methyl benzoate and benzyl salicylate, molecules that give its scent both depth and luminosity, like white petals bathed in moonlight. The rose, likely Rosa damascena from Bulgaria or Rosa centifolia from Grasse, contributes a soft yet commanding presence. Bulgarian rose oil, rich in citronellol and geraniol, adds a velvety sweetness tinged with lemony freshness; while Grasse rose lends a powdery, slightly honeyed character. The floral heart is enlivened by clove from the Moluccas (Indonesia)—its oil dominated by eugenol, an aromatic compound that imparts a warm, spicy-carnation tone and lends structure to the floral accord. Cinnamon, likely from Ceylon (Sri Lanka), deepens the composition with a dry, resinous sweetness—its cinnamaldehyde molecules contributing warmth and tenacity. Together, these ingredients transform the initial brightness into a golden, sun-drenched warmth, evoking a garden in full bloom beneath a southern sky.

The base of Eau Aromatique de Montpellier lingers with rose, ambergris, and musk—a trio that fuses sensuality with refinement. The returning rose note connects the heart and base seamlessly, maintaining the floral thread throughout the composition. Ambergris, one of perfumery’s most elusive treasures, lends the perfume its soft, animalic glow. Naturally excreted by sperm whales and aged by the sea, ambergris is prized for its subtle, salty-skin aroma—rich in ambroxide, which enhances the perfume’s radiance and longevity. In modern interpretations, synthetic ambroxan or C14 aldehydes often replicate this effect, giving the same diffusive warmth with a cleaner profile, ensuring stability while honoring the original’s luxury. Finally, musk closes the composition in a tender embrace. Once derived from the musk deer, today it appears in synthetic forms such as muscone or galaxolide, whose soft, skin-like warmth binds all the previous notes into a seamless harmony. The musk’s powdery, sensual aura gently amplifies the floral heart, creating a halo effect that lingers for hours.

Altogether, Eau Aromatique de Montpellier feels like stepping into a timeless garden at the height of its bloom—where sunlight glances off citrus leaves, white flowers breathe out their sweetness, and a trace of spice drifts through warm air. It bridges the freshness of nature and the refinement of artifice, where natural oils and delicate synthetics work in concert to create something that feels at once alive, noble, and eternal.

Bottles:

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown.

Bouquet de L'Exposition c1867

Bouquet de L’Exposition was launched by Guerlain in 1867, created especially for the Exposition Universelle of Paris, the grand World’s Fair that celebrated innovation, progress, and artistry during the height of the Second Empire. At a time when Paris was the undisputed capital of elegance and refinement, Guerlain—already established as the perfumer to emperors and empresses—presented this fragrance as both a tribute to floral beauty and a showcase of the house’s mastery in olfactory composition.

The scent itself was conceived as a “bouquet of exhibition,” a perfume meant to dazzle visitors much like the marvels on display in the pavilions surrounding it. The composition is a graceful floral harmony centered on rose, honeysuckle, and Philadelphus (often called mock orange). The rose, likely sourced from the lush flower fields of Grasse, offered its familiar velvety sweetness and romantic depth—a timeless emblem of femininity. The honeysuckle, with its honeyed, slightly green perfume, lent an air of springtime freshness, evoking the scent of blossoms climbing along a sun-warmed garden wall. The Philadelphus, prized for its radiant, orange-blossom-like aroma, added a sparkling brightness that completed the illusion of a fragrant bouquet just gathered from a Parisian garden at dawn.

Together, these flowers created a tender, luminous, and distinctly French fragrance, one that mirrored the optimism and grace of its era. Worn by ladies in silk crinolines and lace gloves, Bouquet de L’Exposition would have seemed both modern and timeless—a whisper of refinement in a time of grandeur.

Though discontinued long ago, the perfume remains part of Guerlain’s early heritage, a testament to the house’s long-standing tradition of linking its creations to moments of art, culture, and innovation. Bouquet de L’Exposition endures in memory as a fragrant souvenir of the 1867 World’s Fair, a delicate echo of a Paris that perfumed the world with its beauty.