Wednesday, October 16, 2013
Guerlain Powder Compact c1920
Guerlain Powder Compact c1920. Mirror on base, made up of brass, puff is on underside of lid. Guerlain, Paris stamped on the side (see pix). Measures 1 3/8" in diameter.
Guerlain Manicure Kit c1950
The Guerlain Necessaire Manicure Kit, introduced in 1950, reflects the refined elegance and meticulous craftsmanship characteristic of the house’s postwar luxury accessories. Compact and beautifully balanced in design, the travel case measures 11 by 11 centimeters—small enough to slip into a vanity drawer or handbag, yet substantial in its presentation. The exterior is clad in supple burgundy leather, its surface finely grained and finished with a soft sheen that deepens with age. The color choice, a rich wine tone, evokes quiet sophistication and the polished glamour associated with Guerlain’s mid-century beauty line.
Opening the case reveals a neatly arranged interior where every tool has its precise place. The kit includes a pair of tweezers, a nail file, four small bottles of nail enamel, two petite pots, and a fine brush—all elegantly proportioned for travel use. The bottles with plastic screw caps, likely contained a selection of classic Guerlain nail enamels in the fashionable tones of the era—rose, coral, carmine, and the sophisticated muted beige that complemented red-tinted lipsticks. The two pots may have held cuticle cream and hand balm, completing the ritual of hand care that was as much about poise as polish.
More than a simple grooming set, this necessaire embodies Guerlain’s belief that beauty rituals should be both functional and indulgent. Each element, from the smooth leather exterior to the precise fit of the glass bottles within, speaks of French luxury craftsmanship and the postwar revival of personal elegance. It is an object designed not merely for utility, but to bring grace and refinement to even the most practical of daily gestures.
La Pyrommee - Guerlain's First Kohl Eyeliner
The more daring woman of the nineteenth century might have reached for La Pyrommée, a mysterious and exotic eye powder said to bestow a gaze of irresistible intensity. This Arabian-styled kohl was kept in an elegant ivory tube, its surface delicately engraved with an eye motif—an emblem of allure and ancient beauty secrets. Advertising of the era spun a romantic tale around its origins, claiming that Pierre-François-Pascal Guerlain had learned its secret formula from an Armenian Pasha, who had shared it with the ladies of his harem. Such a story lent the product an air of Eastern mystique, a blend of luxury, seduction, and forbidden knowledge.
A Parisian press article from 1840 described La Pyrommée in breathless admiration: “The word is made up of Greek words, one of which means fire and the other, eye. So you will immediately understand that Pyrommée is nothing else than the secret of a fiery gaze. Once we have managed to bring the hair to shine and the complexion to glow, now, through this secret, we see the gaze—the soul of beauty and the unveiling of intelligence. This is certainly something that comes close to fame and glory.” The prose captures the era’s fascination with transformation and illusion—the desire not only to appear beautiful but to radiate inner vitality through the eyes themselves.
Despite its success, Pyrommée occupied a controversial place in nineteenth-century society. In an age when cosmetics were associated primarily with actresses and courtesans, respectable women risked scandal by using visible makeup. Yet Pyrommée was different: its dark, smoky trace along the lashes could be applied discreetly, a whisper of seduction rather than a declaration. It offered women a small rebellion against social restraint—a way to express power, mystery, and femininity through something as subtle as a glance.
By the 1950s, Guerlain quietly ended the sale of Pyrommée, closing a century-long chapter of beauty history. Still, its legend endures as one of Guerlain’s earliest and most enchanting creations—a cosmetic that turned not just heads, but hearts, with the promise of a “fiery gaze.”
All the Year Round, Volume 6 By Charles Dickens, 1862:
Town Topics, the Journal of Society, Volume 29, 1893:
A Parisian press article from 1840 described La Pyrommée in breathless admiration: “The word is made up of Greek words, one of which means fire and the other, eye. So you will immediately understand that Pyrommée is nothing else than the secret of a fiery gaze. Once we have managed to bring the hair to shine and the complexion to glow, now, through this secret, we see the gaze—the soul of beauty and the unveiling of intelligence. This is certainly something that comes close to fame and glory.” The prose captures the era’s fascination with transformation and illusion—the desire not only to appear beautiful but to radiate inner vitality through the eyes themselves.
Despite its success, Pyrommée occupied a controversial place in nineteenth-century society. In an age when cosmetics were associated primarily with actresses and courtesans, respectable women risked scandal by using visible makeup. Yet Pyrommée was different: its dark, smoky trace along the lashes could be applied discreetly, a whisper of seduction rather than a declaration. It offered women a small rebellion against social restraint—a way to express power, mystery, and femininity through something as subtle as a glance.
By the 1950s, Guerlain quietly ended the sale of Pyrommée, closing a century-long chapter of beauty history. Still, its legend endures as one of Guerlain’s earliest and most enchanting creations—a cosmetic that turned not just heads, but hearts, with the promise of a “fiery gaze.”
L'Artiste, 1856:
"Fashion has its victims just as love does—one sacrifices to it with rapture. It asserts itself, dominates, and tyrannizes. It takes hold of everything. It begins with perfumery, extending even to furniture, draperies, and, astonishingly, to pastries. The “fashion of indulgence” has its charms, just as the perfumed fashions of Guerlain do—his Caprifolium, Violette des Bois, Verveine, Clématite, and all those English-style bouquets that form a graceful keepsake of ambrosia and honey in the kingdom of flowers.
Guerlain is more than a perfumer—he is a learned chemist. He has discovered the secret of selling eternal beauty and deceiving nature itself. He has studied ancient manuscripts and drawn from them talismans of coquetry: Rouge de la Reine, Rouge de Damas, Rouge Plessis; Crème Lis, Blanc de Perles, Paillé, Rosé and Demi-Rosé, and Poudre de Lis (Persian Powder of Lily) to whiten the skin. With all of Guerlain’s fragrant illusions, a daughter of Eve may rejuvenate herself and bestow upon her face a beauty all the more dangerous because it is not real.
The charm of that little black powder called Pyrommée, placed at the edge of the eyelids, is irresistible. Men know very well that such eyes are artificial, yet they are always ensnared by them—like naïve butterflies, drawn helplessly to the light and the sun."
All the Year Round, Volume 6 By Charles Dickens, 1862:
Thirdly, there is a fine black powder, delicately packed in small ivory cases and fitted with a tiny applicator at one end. Sold under the names Koheuil or Pyrommée, it is used to darken the eyelashes and the rims of the eyelids—intended, as the label boldly proclaims, “to render the glances most provoking.”
Les Coulisses de la Mode, 1888:
"The profession of ladies’ hairdresser is no longer as lucrative or as dazzling as it was under the Second Empire, because social life has remained stagnant for many years. Nevertheless, the art of hairdressing has not declined, thanks to the schools to which we will soon turn our attention. A ladies’ hairdresser charges five francs for an ordinary city or dinner hairstyle, which requires only a few crimped sections, bands, or a braid. A ball hairstyle, which demands the use of flowers or feathers in the hair, costs between fifteen and twenty francs. A powdered hairstyle is paid at twenty to thirty francs, a historical hairstyle at thirty to forty, and finally, a fancy or costume hairstyle rises from forty to fifty francs.When there is a grand ball at the home of the Princess de S., for example, one must make an appointment long in advance to be styled by a well-known hairdresser. The latter schedules his clients every half hour. On the appointed day, he gets into his carriage and arrives at his first client’s home at two in the afternoon; twenty-five minutes are enough for him to construct even the most elaborate hairstyles, for he has prepared in advance all the accessories he will need. It is quite common that by eleven o’clock at night, he still has one or two clients left to attend to. The ladies’ hairdresser does not limit himself to styling hair—he also applies makeup. This is what he calls bringing harmony to the face: a very light stroke of pencil to make the eyebrows appear thicker, darker, and to add brilliance to the eyes; a barely perceptible touch of Pyrommee powder to veil eyelids that are red or puffy; a drop of rose extract to give the lips a lasting color that does not fade when drinking, eating, using a handkerchief, or simply running the tongue over the lips. Sometimes, the hairdresser goes even further—he colors, in the same manner, the inside of his client’s nostrils or ears."
"My dear Lena, you asked me to see about some small articles de toilette. So I went to Guerlain's and this is what he suggests for you. An etui of Pyrommee for the eyes, it certainly makes one's eyes look better and is quite harmless. It contains a little India rubber tampon that you pass gently under and over your eyelashes, but before using it, blow off the black that is too thick or you will have too much on and look as if you had two lovely black eyes. It undoubtedly gives brilliancy to the eyes and does not show in the least, I use it as well for my eyebrows, the least little soupcon and I am sure you have never noticed it. To keep your powder on, there is one famous article from Guerlain's called Creme Patti. The Comtesse de B. always uses it and she is certainly the best arranged woman in France. You put it on all over your face and rub it well in. Don't think it is greasy for it is not. Her face never looks hot or greasy. Then you wipe it off with a soft towel and put your powder on lightly. If you want any rouge, and if you are feeling tired or ill, it is sometimes necessary try lip salve on your cheeks, tout bonnement, and a little powder on the top of it. Rouge gives such a hard expression I think, whereas lip salve no one can see. I defy them to find you out, and one hates one's little secrets to be revealed to the world. I ordered you yards of Heliotrope flannel to put in the wardrobes and also on your bodies as sachet powder invariably comes out and makes a dust. A new perfume called Nice Dear. I thought irresistible. In France, we adopt a perfume and stick to it. One's scent is really part of one's self. l am sure you will like Nice Dear enough to wish not to change again, and that you will find with the Creme Patti and the Poudre de Blanc de Perles, the lip salve, and the black for your eyes, time and weather are naught to you, Lena dear, I swear secrecy, no torture could wrench this secret from my lips,"
Österreichischer Bühnen-Verein, 1895:
“Pyrommee, when applied between the eyelids, gives the eye a captivating look and a phenomenal shine. Price per piece: 3 florins.”
Tuesday, October 15, 2013
Vol de Nuit 80th Anniversary Limited Edition Parfum 2013
In 2013, Guerlain celebrated the 80th anniversary of one of its most enigmatic and poetic creations—Vol de Nuit, originally composed by Jacques Guerlain in 1933. To honor eight decades of this legendary fragrance, Guerlain unveiled an extraordinarily limited edition, conceived as both a tribute to its history and a work of art in its own right.
From the depths of the Guerlain archives, 46 original vintage flacons were carefully selected and restored—each an authentic relic from the house’s golden era. These bottles, with their 56ml capacity, were refilled with a new formulation of Vol de Nuit parfum, crafted to evoke the original’s mysterious balance of green, woody, and oriental notes. The flacons themselves retain their timeless Art Deco allure, their solid glass forms symbolizing both luxury and endurance.
Each bottle was lavishly adorned for the occasion: the metal label and stopper cover were meticulously gilded with genuine gold leaf, applied by hand to ensure a luminous, warm radiance that would catch the light like the gleam of an aircraft wing at dusk—an allusion to the fragrance’s name, “Flight by Night.” The gilding brought renewed life to the elegant geometry of the design, emphasizing the interplay of reflection and shadow that has long been part of Vol de Nuit’s mystique.
Released in an edition of only 46 numbered pieces worldwide, each bottle was priced at 6,500 euros, underscoring its rarity and the extraordinary craftsmanship involved. This commemorative edition was not merely a perfume, but a piece of Guerlain heritage, connecting past and present through artistry, memory, and scent—a testament to the enduring magic of Vol de Nuit and the house’s reverence for its own luminous history.
Vol de Nuit, whose name translates to Night Flight, draws its inspiration from Antoine de Saint-Exupéry’s 1931 novel, a poetic and haunting tale of courage, love, and sacrifice set during the dawn of aviation. The story captures the perilous romance of flight in its earliest days, when pilots braved uncertain skies guided only by starlight, radio signals, and faith. In the novel, a newly married pilot loses control of his aircraft during a storm, while his young wife waits anxiously in the control tower, her heart suspended between hope and despair. It is a narrative steeped in emotion—one that speaks to the human desire to transcend limits, even at great personal risk.
Jacques Guerlain, ever attuned to the poetry of life and art, transformed this story into fragrance in 1933, crafting Vol de Nuit as a vibrant olfactory homage to both the heroism of flight and the emotional strength of the women who loved these daring men. The perfume mirrors the tension between darkness and light, evoking the gleam of propellers slicing through a stormy night sky, and the warmth of the human spirit that endures beneath it.
To Guerlain, Vol de Nuit symbolized not only the romance of aviation but also a new vision of femininity—a woman who dares, who possesses both tenderness and fortitude, who moves gracefully through uncertainty without fear. She is mysterious and luminous, like the scent itself: complex, quietly powerful, and unforgettable. In this way, Vol de Nuit became far more than a fragrance; it became a metaphor for courage and emotional depth, a timeless tribute to those who live—and love—with the thrilling awareness that life’s beauty often resides in its risks.
The Vol de Nuit flacon itself is a striking visual echo of the fragrance’s adventurous spirit. Crafted from smoked glass, the bottle is embossed in relief with the graceful, swirling shape of an aircraft propeller in motion, capturing a sense of movement and the thrill of early aviation. The circular cutout of the perfume’s name, framed by a band of gold metal, mirrors the propeller belt, elegantly reinforcing the theme of flight. In the limited edition, these details are further elevated with the luxurious application of real gold leaf, adding a radiant shimmer that catches the light with every turn, evoking both the glamour and daring energy of Saint-Exupéry’s skies. The design is at once sophisticated and dynamic, a perfect visual counterpart to the fragrance’s luminous, bold character.
From the depths of the Guerlain archives, 46 original vintage flacons were carefully selected and restored—each an authentic relic from the house’s golden era. These bottles, with their 56ml capacity, were refilled with a new formulation of Vol de Nuit parfum, crafted to evoke the original’s mysterious balance of green, woody, and oriental notes. The flacons themselves retain their timeless Art Deco allure, their solid glass forms symbolizing both luxury and endurance.
Each bottle was lavishly adorned for the occasion: the metal label and stopper cover were meticulously gilded with genuine gold leaf, applied by hand to ensure a luminous, warm radiance that would catch the light like the gleam of an aircraft wing at dusk—an allusion to the fragrance’s name, “Flight by Night.” The gilding brought renewed life to the elegant geometry of the design, emphasizing the interplay of reflection and shadow that has long been part of Vol de Nuit’s mystique.
Released in an edition of only 46 numbered pieces worldwide, each bottle was priced at 6,500 euros, underscoring its rarity and the extraordinary craftsmanship involved. This commemorative edition was not merely a perfume, but a piece of Guerlain heritage, connecting past and present through artistry, memory, and scent—a testament to the enduring magic of Vol de Nuit and the house’s reverence for its own luminous history.
Vol de Nuit, whose name translates to Night Flight, draws its inspiration from Antoine de Saint-Exupéry’s 1931 novel, a poetic and haunting tale of courage, love, and sacrifice set during the dawn of aviation. The story captures the perilous romance of flight in its earliest days, when pilots braved uncertain skies guided only by starlight, radio signals, and faith. In the novel, a newly married pilot loses control of his aircraft during a storm, while his young wife waits anxiously in the control tower, her heart suspended between hope and despair. It is a narrative steeped in emotion—one that speaks to the human desire to transcend limits, even at great personal risk.
Jacques Guerlain, ever attuned to the poetry of life and art, transformed this story into fragrance in 1933, crafting Vol de Nuit as a vibrant olfactory homage to both the heroism of flight and the emotional strength of the women who loved these daring men. The perfume mirrors the tension between darkness and light, evoking the gleam of propellers slicing through a stormy night sky, and the warmth of the human spirit that endures beneath it.
To Guerlain, Vol de Nuit symbolized not only the romance of aviation but also a new vision of femininity—a woman who dares, who possesses both tenderness and fortitude, who moves gracefully through uncertainty without fear. She is mysterious and luminous, like the scent itself: complex, quietly powerful, and unforgettable. In this way, Vol de Nuit became far more than a fragrance; it became a metaphor for courage and emotional depth, a timeless tribute to those who live—and love—with the thrilling awareness that life’s beauty often resides in its risks.
Fragrance Composition:
- Top notes: bergamot, galbanum, and petitgrain.
- Middle notes: jasmine, daffodil, and spices.
- Base notes: wood, iris, vanilla, amber notes, and an earthy forest note.
Scent Profile:
Vol de Nuit opens with a bright, electrifying burst of bergamot from Calabria, Italy. Its zest is luminous and tangy, carrying a naturally sparkling citrus oil rich in linalyl acetate and limonene, which infuse the fragrance with a radiant, almost luminous top note. Alongside it, galbanum emerges—a green, resinous note sourced traditionally from Iran, offering a sharp, bitter green aroma that immediately evokes the smell of sun-drenched forests and crushed leaves. Its naturally occurring pinene and terpenes lend a vibrant, slightly resinous crispness. Intertwined with these is petitgrain, distilled from the tender leaves and twigs of the bitter orange tree, often from Paraguay or Haiti, which contributes a delicate floral-woody freshness; the linalool and geraniol content brings a soft, slightly sweet, verdant brightness that perfectly balances the sharpness of galbanum.
The heart unfurls with a luminous floral accord. Jasmine—likely sourced from the fields of Grasse—is rich and opulent, its indole compounds lending a deep, sensual warmth that is at once intoxicating and comforting. It is accompanied by daffodil, an unusual addition that gives the bouquet a subtly powdery, green-floral delicacy, almost ethereal, with lactones imparting a creamy, soft nuance. Woven through the florals is a trace of exotic spices, adding warmth and intrigue—a subtle, slightly peppery hum that enlivens the bouquet without overpowering the floral clarity. This middle stage evokes the drama of flight itself: a swirl of sunlight, wind, and motion.
The base is where Vol de Nuit reveals its depth and gravity. Iris, with its buttery, powdery orris root, adds a refined softness that grounds the fragrance, complementing the warm, sensual vanilla—possibly Bourbon vanilla—which imparts a creamy sweetness enriched by vanillin and related aroma compounds. Amber notes and a woody foundation, likely a blend of cedar and sandalwood, provide a resonant warmth and depth, their sesquiterpenes and aromatic alcohols lending longevity and a sense of grounded elegance. Beneath it all, an earthy forest note reminiscent of damp leaves and moss evokes the flight through a nocturnal woodland, creating a smoky, mysterious trail that lingers on the skin. Together, the base blends with the florals and citruses to form a bold, complex composition: luminous yet grounded, adventurous yet intimate—much like the daring, romantic spirit of Saint-Exupéry’s tale itself.
Bottle:
The Vol de Nuit flacon itself is a striking visual echo of the fragrance’s adventurous spirit. Crafted from smoked glass, the bottle is embossed in relief with the graceful, swirling shape of an aircraft propeller in motion, capturing a sense of movement and the thrill of early aviation. The circular cutout of the perfume’s name, framed by a band of gold metal, mirrors the propeller belt, elegantly reinforcing the theme of flight. In the limited edition, these details are further elevated with the luxurious application of real gold leaf, adding a radiant shimmer that catches the light with every turn, evoking both the glamour and daring energy of Saint-Exupéry’s skies. The design is at once sophisticated and dynamic, a perfect visual counterpart to the fragrance’s luminous, bold character.
Monday, September 30, 2013
Le Parfum du 68 2013
Le Parfum du 68 stands as both a tribute to Guerlain’s illustrious history and a fragrant emblem of renewal. The name, “Le Parfum du Soixante-Huit” (pronounced luh par-FAHN dew swah-sahnt wheat), literally means “The Perfume of 68.” It refers to Guerlain’s legendary flagship address—68, Avenue des Champs-Élysées—a site that has long been synonymous with Parisian luxury and artistry. When the store reopened in November 2013 after an extensive renovation, Guerlain sought to capture that moment of rebirth and continuity in scent form. The fragrance, composed by in-house perfumer Thierry Wasser, reimagines the earlier Cologne du 68 with richer textures and deeper tonalities, translating architectural grandeur and heritage into olfactory art.
The number 68 evokes not only a physical address but also an identity—an enduring symbol of Guerlain’s Parisian soul. It conjures images of golden light filtering through crystal chandeliers, mirrored salons reflecting Art Deco elegance, and the hum of the Champs-Élysées outside. The name itself suggests sophistication and exclusivity, as though one were stepping into a world where perfumery, design, and memory intertwine. “Le Parfum du 68” feels both modern and timeless, much like the house that inspired it—a blend of contemporary refinement and century-old savoir-faire.
When it was launched in 2013, the world of perfumery was experiencing a resurgence of heritage storytelling. Consumers sought authenticity, craftsmanship, and connection to legacy brands. Fashion, too, reflected this duality—minimalist silhouettes paired with opulent materials, a nod to both restraint and indulgence. Guerlain’s reinterpretation of its own history aligned perfectly with this moment. While niche perfumery leaned toward experimental compositions, Le Parfum du 68 celebrated tradition with a modern signature, reaffirming Guerlain’s place as the arbiter of French luxury.
Women (and men) of this period, accustomed to sleek designer fragrances and celebrity scents, would have found Le Parfum du 68 a rare expression of depth and dignity. Its name alone—rooted in a historic address—implied exclusivity and belonging to an elite circle of connoisseurs. To wear it was to carry the aura of Guerlain’s Parisian heritage: a perfume that was not merely a cosmetic accessory but a statement of culture and refinement.
Interpreted in scent, Le Parfum du 68 translates the warmth of Guerlain’s Maison into fragrant form. Classified as a woody spicy floral, it opens with the luminous freshness of mandarin and petitgrain, a nod to the citrus tradition of classic Colognes. The heart blossoms with immortelle, rose, and ylang-ylang, weaving a tapestry of sun-drenched florals over a gentle spice of cardamom and pink pepper. Beneath it all, a luxurious base of cedarwood, benzoin, tonka bean, and incense glows softly, like polished wood warmed by candlelight. The immortelle note—rich with maple and honeyed tones—echoes Guerlain’s signature ambery-gourmand warmth, binding the composition with comfort and familiarity.
In context, Le Parfum du 68 was both nostalgic and innovative. It did not chase the fleeting trends of the 2010s—those dominated by gourmand excess or minimalist transparency—but rather offered a sophisticated synthesis of both worlds: the craftsmanship of the past rendered through modern precision. Its structure and refinement placed it firmly within Guerlain’s lineage, echoing the sensuality of Shalimar and the powdery elegance of L’Heure Bleue, yet with the clarity and luminosity suited to the contemporary palate.
To honor this exquisite formula, Guerlain turned once again to Baccarat, who crafted the bottle as a reinterpretation of the legendary Turtle Flacon—first introduced in 1914 to commemorate Guerlain’s original move to 68, Champs-Élysées. This connection across a century underscores the brand’s philosophy: true luxury lies in continuity. The turtle, symbolizing longevity and wisdom, becomes the perfect emblem for a house that continues to evolve while remaining steadfastly true to its origins.
In essence, Le Parfum du 68 is not just a perfume—it is Guerlain distilled into scent. A fragrant homage to history, artistry, and place, it captures the spirit of a Parisian landmark reborn, whispering softly of the past while welcoming the future with grace.
Le Parfum du 68 opens with a golden light — a radiant fusion of immortelle and rose, two ingredients that immediately express contrast: warmth and freshness, earth and air, tradition and sensuality. Immortelle, also known as Helichrysum italicum, hails primarily from the sun-soaked hills of Corsica and the Mediterranean basin. Its blossoms never fade, even after picking — hence the name “everlasting flower.” Its scent, however, is far from delicate: it is warm and spicy, with a distinctive maple syrup richness underpinned by hints of curry, honey, and tobacco. Naturally containing neryl acetate and β-diketones, immortelle contributes an almost glowing, ambered tone that lingers. Here, it lends the perfume its burnished gold heart — a solar warmth that radiates softly through every layer of the composition.
Against this, the rose rises in gentle contrast. The variety that Guerlain favored in such creations was typically Rosa damascena from Bulgaria or Turkey — prized for its velvety texture and complex profile. The Bulgarian rose, rich in citronellol, geraniol, and phenylethyl alcohol, offers brightness and depth at once: a multifaceted balance of lemony freshness and honeyed warmth. In Le Parfum du 68, the rose acts as a bridge — tempering the resinous sweetness of immortelle with tender petal notes. Together, they unfold like a tapestry of sun and silk, embodying Guerlain’s signature contrast of comfort and refinement.
As the perfume deepens, the heart reveals its complexity — a union of incense, heliotrope, benzoin, and a symphony of spices. The incense, likely frankincense from Oman or Somalia, provides a mineral brightness and dry, smoky resinousness that balances the gourmand sweetness below. Its aroma molecules — alpha-pinene, limonene, and incensole acetate — give that recognizable “church air” purity, evoking meditative calm. In contrast, benzoin from Siam or Laos brings warmth and smoothness. A balsamic resin derived from the Styrax tonkinensis tree, benzoin smells of vanilla, caramel, and amber. It contains vanillin and cinnamic acid, which contribute its creamy sweetness and fixative strength. In Guerlain’s hands, benzoin has always been a beloved note, part of the brand’s iconic “Guerlinade” accord — lending its signature caress to the skin.
Heliotrope softens this heart with its powdery almond sweetness. Its scent, reminiscent of marzipan and sugared violets, comes from heliotropin (piperonal), a naturally occurring aromatic chemical that became one of perfumery’s earliest synthetics. Heliotropin provides that nostalgic, almost tactile softness — as if one could smell velvet. In Le Parfum du 68, it wraps the incense and benzoin in a creamy cocoon, turning the sharpness of resin into a tender whisper. The spices — likely a subtle blend of cardamom, pink pepper, and perhaps a touch of cinnamon — animate the composition, bringing a gentle vibrancy that keeps the perfume from becoming too languid.
In the base, Guerlain’s craftsmanship truly shines. The Guerlinade accord — that secret signature shared across so many of the house’s masterpieces — emerges, woven from vanilla, tonka bean, iris, and musk. Here, it anchors Le Parfum du 68 in familiarity, the olfactory equivalent of silk lining in a couture gown. Tonka bean, sourced from Venezuela or Brazil, imparts its characteristic warm, almond-like scent thanks to coumarin, the molecule responsible for its sweet, hay-like aroma. This coumarin-rich note harmonizes beautifully with benzoin and immortelle, deepening their gourmand tendencies while maintaining sophistication.
The woods and leather complete the drydown with elegance and restraint. Cedarwood, with its pencil-shaving dryness and aromatic clarity, grounds the sweetness, while a refined leather accord — likely constructed through isobutyl quinoline and other synthetic modifiers — lends a supple, animalic undertone. These modern synthetics enhance the natural resins, ensuring the composition feels timeless rather than nostalgic. Subtle musk molecules provide the final texture: clean yet sensual, like warm skin after hours of wear.
Smelling Le Parfum du 68 is like walking through Guerlain’s newly restored flagship at dusk — sunlight fading through beveled glass, the air perfumed with polished wood, gilded mirrors, and the faint echo of history. It is an olfactory architecture, built of resins, florals, and spices, each ingredient chosen not just for beauty, but for the story it tells. Immortelle’s eternal glow, rose’s soft elegance, benzoin’s gentle sweetness, and leather’s quiet strength — all merge into a fragrance that feels both modern and eternal, an aromatic embodiment of Guerlain itself: heritage renewed, luxury reimagined.
For the 2013 Christmas limited edition, Guerlain unveiled one of its most breathtaking collector’s creations — Le Parfum du 68 housed in a monumental one-liter bottle of black crystal, an object that transcends mere perfumery to become a true work of art. This masterpiece was born from the resurrection of a century-old Baccarat mold, originally created for the legendary Tortue (turtle) bottle of 1914, which had been commissioned to celebrate the opening of Guerlain’s boutique at 68, Champs-Élysées. For this modern reinterpretation, the mold was refined and subtly reworked, allowing Baccarat’s artisans to capture the original spirit of the design while bringing new precision and depth to its form. The result is a bottle of hypnotic beauty — black crystal that absorbs light rather than reflecting it, embodying mystery, refinement, and quiet opulence.
Each of the thirty bottles produced — only thirty pieces worldwide — was meticulously gilded by hand by the Ateliers Gohard, renowned Parisian artisans celebrated for their mastery of gold leaf and restoration of French heritage monuments. Their golden touch frames the deep black crystal with subtle glimmers, as though Paris itself — elegant, eternal, and radiant — had been captured in molten gold. The bottle rests beneath a glass dome, a presentation that recalls 19th-century displays of rare art objects, emphasizing its dual nature as both perfume and sculpture. This luxurious presentation was exclusively available at Guerlain’s flagship location, making it not merely a fragrance but a tangible expression of the maison’s devotion to craftsmanship and history.
The composition inside this extraordinary vessel was created by Thierry Wasser as a tribute to Guerlain’s mythical address at 68, Champs-Élysées. It is described as a woody and spicy fragrance, playing upon the contrast between hot and cold spices — a dialogue of warmth and freshness that symbolizes the dynamic rhythm of Paris itself. The immortelle note forms the golden heart of the perfume, lending its honeyed, sunlit depth and unmistakable character, while floral nuances soften the composition with elegance. The base — a classic Guerlain signature — envelops the senses with tonka bean, benzoin, incense, and leathered resins, creating a sensual trail that is unmistakably “Guerlain”: rich, enveloping, and infinitely sophisticated.
This edition stands as a testament to Guerlain’s philosophy of perpetual reinvention, linking past and present through art, craftsmanship, and fragrance. The 1914 turtle bottle had once symbolized patience and endurance — a playful nod by Jacques Guerlain to the time it took to complete the original Champs-Élysées boutique. A century later, in 2013, the turtle returned in black crystal, now representing longevity, heritage, and renewal — the same enduring spirit that has carried the house of Guerlain through generations. In every detail, from its sculpted shell to its molten gold finish, Le Parfum du 68 in its black crystal form embodies not just luxury, but legacy — an object meant not merely to be worn, but to be admired, treasured, and remembered.
From Guerlain:
The eau de parfum edition of Le Parfum du 68 was created to offer a wider audience the opportunity to experience this distinguished fragrance, though still within the refined exclusivity of the house. Unlike the opulent black crystal flacon crafted by Baccarat for the limited edition parfum, the eau de parfum was presented in Guerlain’s iconic square bottle, a design long associated with the brand’s most elegant creations. The glass was etched with an intricate rendering of the façade of the Guerlain flagship boutique at 68, Champs-Élysées, a subtle yet meaningful tribute to the very heart and heritage of the house.
This architectural engraving transforms the bottle into more than a vessel for scent—it becomes a keepsake of Guerlain’s Parisian legacy, a miniature homage to the building that has symbolized French luxury and savoir-faire for more than a century. The clean geometric lines of the bottle reflect the maison’s balance between modernity and tradition, while the detailed etching captures the artistry that defines Guerlain’s craftsmanship.
Although this edition made the fragrance more accessible than the rare black crystal version, it remained available exclusively at Maison Guerlain, preserving its sense of privilege and intimacy. To own Le Parfum du 68 in this form was to hold a piece of the Champs-Élysées itself—an emblem of timeless elegance, refined taste, and Parisian artistry, bottled for those who appreciate both the scent and the story behind it.
The number 68 evokes not only a physical address but also an identity—an enduring symbol of Guerlain’s Parisian soul. It conjures images of golden light filtering through crystal chandeliers, mirrored salons reflecting Art Deco elegance, and the hum of the Champs-Élysées outside. The name itself suggests sophistication and exclusivity, as though one were stepping into a world where perfumery, design, and memory intertwine. “Le Parfum du 68” feels both modern and timeless, much like the house that inspired it—a blend of contemporary refinement and century-old savoir-faire.
When it was launched in 2013, the world of perfumery was experiencing a resurgence of heritage storytelling. Consumers sought authenticity, craftsmanship, and connection to legacy brands. Fashion, too, reflected this duality—minimalist silhouettes paired with opulent materials, a nod to both restraint and indulgence. Guerlain’s reinterpretation of its own history aligned perfectly with this moment. While niche perfumery leaned toward experimental compositions, Le Parfum du 68 celebrated tradition with a modern signature, reaffirming Guerlain’s place as the arbiter of French luxury.
Women (and men) of this period, accustomed to sleek designer fragrances and celebrity scents, would have found Le Parfum du 68 a rare expression of depth and dignity. Its name alone—rooted in a historic address—implied exclusivity and belonging to an elite circle of connoisseurs. To wear it was to carry the aura of Guerlain’s Parisian heritage: a perfume that was not merely a cosmetic accessory but a statement of culture and refinement.
Interpreted in scent, Le Parfum du 68 translates the warmth of Guerlain’s Maison into fragrant form. Classified as a woody spicy floral, it opens with the luminous freshness of mandarin and petitgrain, a nod to the citrus tradition of classic Colognes. The heart blossoms with immortelle, rose, and ylang-ylang, weaving a tapestry of sun-drenched florals over a gentle spice of cardamom and pink pepper. Beneath it all, a luxurious base of cedarwood, benzoin, tonka bean, and incense glows softly, like polished wood warmed by candlelight. The immortelle note—rich with maple and honeyed tones—echoes Guerlain’s signature ambery-gourmand warmth, binding the composition with comfort and familiarity.
In context, Le Parfum du 68 was both nostalgic and innovative. It did not chase the fleeting trends of the 2010s—those dominated by gourmand excess or minimalist transparency—but rather offered a sophisticated synthesis of both worlds: the craftsmanship of the past rendered through modern precision. Its structure and refinement placed it firmly within Guerlain’s lineage, echoing the sensuality of Shalimar and the powdery elegance of L’Heure Bleue, yet with the clarity and luminosity suited to the contemporary palate.
To honor this exquisite formula, Guerlain turned once again to Baccarat, who crafted the bottle as a reinterpretation of the legendary Turtle Flacon—first introduced in 1914 to commemorate Guerlain’s original move to 68, Champs-Élysées. This connection across a century underscores the brand’s philosophy: true luxury lies in continuity. The turtle, symbolizing longevity and wisdom, becomes the perfect emblem for a house that continues to evolve while remaining steadfastly true to its origins.
In essence, Le Parfum du 68 is not just a perfume—it is Guerlain distilled into scent. A fragrant homage to history, artistry, and place, it captures the spirit of a Parisian landmark reborn, whispering softly of the past while welcoming the future with grace.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? Le Parfum du 68 is classified as a woody spicy floral fragrance for women.
- Top notes: immortelle, rose
- Middle notes: incense, heliotrope, benzoin, spices
- Base notes: Guerlinade accord, woods, leather, tonka bean
Scent Profile:
Le Parfum du 68 opens with a golden light — a radiant fusion of immortelle and rose, two ingredients that immediately express contrast: warmth and freshness, earth and air, tradition and sensuality. Immortelle, also known as Helichrysum italicum, hails primarily from the sun-soaked hills of Corsica and the Mediterranean basin. Its blossoms never fade, even after picking — hence the name “everlasting flower.” Its scent, however, is far from delicate: it is warm and spicy, with a distinctive maple syrup richness underpinned by hints of curry, honey, and tobacco. Naturally containing neryl acetate and β-diketones, immortelle contributes an almost glowing, ambered tone that lingers. Here, it lends the perfume its burnished gold heart — a solar warmth that radiates softly through every layer of the composition.
Against this, the rose rises in gentle contrast. The variety that Guerlain favored in such creations was typically Rosa damascena from Bulgaria or Turkey — prized for its velvety texture and complex profile. The Bulgarian rose, rich in citronellol, geraniol, and phenylethyl alcohol, offers brightness and depth at once: a multifaceted balance of lemony freshness and honeyed warmth. In Le Parfum du 68, the rose acts as a bridge — tempering the resinous sweetness of immortelle with tender petal notes. Together, they unfold like a tapestry of sun and silk, embodying Guerlain’s signature contrast of comfort and refinement.
As the perfume deepens, the heart reveals its complexity — a union of incense, heliotrope, benzoin, and a symphony of spices. The incense, likely frankincense from Oman or Somalia, provides a mineral brightness and dry, smoky resinousness that balances the gourmand sweetness below. Its aroma molecules — alpha-pinene, limonene, and incensole acetate — give that recognizable “church air” purity, evoking meditative calm. In contrast, benzoin from Siam or Laos brings warmth and smoothness. A balsamic resin derived from the Styrax tonkinensis tree, benzoin smells of vanilla, caramel, and amber. It contains vanillin and cinnamic acid, which contribute its creamy sweetness and fixative strength. In Guerlain’s hands, benzoin has always been a beloved note, part of the brand’s iconic “Guerlinade” accord — lending its signature caress to the skin.
Heliotrope softens this heart with its powdery almond sweetness. Its scent, reminiscent of marzipan and sugared violets, comes from heliotropin (piperonal), a naturally occurring aromatic chemical that became one of perfumery’s earliest synthetics. Heliotropin provides that nostalgic, almost tactile softness — as if one could smell velvet. In Le Parfum du 68, it wraps the incense and benzoin in a creamy cocoon, turning the sharpness of resin into a tender whisper. The spices — likely a subtle blend of cardamom, pink pepper, and perhaps a touch of cinnamon — animate the composition, bringing a gentle vibrancy that keeps the perfume from becoming too languid.
In the base, Guerlain’s craftsmanship truly shines. The Guerlinade accord — that secret signature shared across so many of the house’s masterpieces — emerges, woven from vanilla, tonka bean, iris, and musk. Here, it anchors Le Parfum du 68 in familiarity, the olfactory equivalent of silk lining in a couture gown. Tonka bean, sourced from Venezuela or Brazil, imparts its characteristic warm, almond-like scent thanks to coumarin, the molecule responsible for its sweet, hay-like aroma. This coumarin-rich note harmonizes beautifully with benzoin and immortelle, deepening their gourmand tendencies while maintaining sophistication.
The woods and leather complete the drydown with elegance and restraint. Cedarwood, with its pencil-shaving dryness and aromatic clarity, grounds the sweetness, while a refined leather accord — likely constructed through isobutyl quinoline and other synthetic modifiers — lends a supple, animalic undertone. These modern synthetics enhance the natural resins, ensuring the composition feels timeless rather than nostalgic. Subtle musk molecules provide the final texture: clean yet sensual, like warm skin after hours of wear.
Smelling Le Parfum du 68 is like walking through Guerlain’s newly restored flagship at dusk — sunlight fading through beveled glass, the air perfumed with polished wood, gilded mirrors, and the faint echo of history. It is an olfactory architecture, built of resins, florals, and spices, each ingredient chosen not just for beauty, but for the story it tells. Immortelle’s eternal glow, rose’s soft elegance, benzoin’s gentle sweetness, and leather’s quiet strength — all merge into a fragrance that feels both modern and eternal, an aromatic embodiment of Guerlain itself: heritage renewed, luxury reimagined.
Bottle:
For the 2013 Christmas limited edition, Guerlain unveiled one of its most breathtaking collector’s creations — Le Parfum du 68 housed in a monumental one-liter bottle of black crystal, an object that transcends mere perfumery to become a true work of art. This masterpiece was born from the resurrection of a century-old Baccarat mold, originally created for the legendary Tortue (turtle) bottle of 1914, which had been commissioned to celebrate the opening of Guerlain’s boutique at 68, Champs-Élysées. For this modern reinterpretation, the mold was refined and subtly reworked, allowing Baccarat’s artisans to capture the original spirit of the design while bringing new precision and depth to its form. The result is a bottle of hypnotic beauty — black crystal that absorbs light rather than reflecting it, embodying mystery, refinement, and quiet opulence.
Each of the thirty bottles produced — only thirty pieces worldwide — was meticulously gilded by hand by the Ateliers Gohard, renowned Parisian artisans celebrated for their mastery of gold leaf and restoration of French heritage monuments. Their golden touch frames the deep black crystal with subtle glimmers, as though Paris itself — elegant, eternal, and radiant — had been captured in molten gold. The bottle rests beneath a glass dome, a presentation that recalls 19th-century displays of rare art objects, emphasizing its dual nature as both perfume and sculpture. This luxurious presentation was exclusively available at Guerlain’s flagship location, making it not merely a fragrance but a tangible expression of the maison’s devotion to craftsmanship and history.
The composition inside this extraordinary vessel was created by Thierry Wasser as a tribute to Guerlain’s mythical address at 68, Champs-Élysées. It is described as a woody and spicy fragrance, playing upon the contrast between hot and cold spices — a dialogue of warmth and freshness that symbolizes the dynamic rhythm of Paris itself. The immortelle note forms the golden heart of the perfume, lending its honeyed, sunlit depth and unmistakable character, while floral nuances soften the composition with elegance. The base — a classic Guerlain signature — envelops the senses with tonka bean, benzoin, incense, and leathered resins, creating a sensual trail that is unmistakably “Guerlain”: rich, enveloping, and infinitely sophisticated.
This edition stands as a testament to Guerlain’s philosophy of perpetual reinvention, linking past and present through art, craftsmanship, and fragrance. The 1914 turtle bottle had once symbolized patience and endurance — a playful nod by Jacques Guerlain to the time it took to complete the original Champs-Élysées boutique. A century later, in 2013, the turtle returned in black crystal, now representing longevity, heritage, and renewal — the same enduring spirit that has carried the house of Guerlain through generations. In every detail, from its sculpted shell to its molten gold finish, Le Parfum du 68 in its black crystal form embodies not just luxury, but legacy — an object meant not merely to be worn, but to be admired, treasured, and remembered.
From Guerlain:
"To mark the reopening of the historic boutique of 68, Champs Elysees, Guerlain reinterprets the mythical turtle bottle of 1914 Revisited Baccarat black crystal in his monumental version of 1l. This technical feat is made possible by the restoration of an old mold 100 years. This treasure of Guerlain Heritage is the witness of the traditional know-how of Guerlain and expertise of Baccarat. Turtle comes to life at the center of its majestic setting, under a glass bell, a magical setting of Paris, gilded with fine gold. A meticulous work of a Master of Art Workshops Gohard.
The fragrance is a unique work, an extract of perfume composed by Thierry Wasser, in homage to the mythical address of 68, Champs Elysées. A woody and spicy fragrance, which plays the contrast between the cold and hot spices spices. The immortelle majesty layout, gives its character to floral heart, while tonka, benzoin and incense, colored notes leather wrap the fragrance in a wildly Guerlain wake.
1913 Guerlain settles on the Champs-Elysees. To celebrate the event, Jacques Guerlain offers the Parisian "Champs Elysees Parfum" in its stunning crystal Baccarat turtle bottle, ironic reference to the length that had taken the work.
A century later, Guerlain continues to reinvent and reinterpret the mythical turtle bottle of 1914, thanks to the restoration of an old mold Baccarat 100 years."
The eau de parfum edition of Le Parfum du 68 was created to offer a wider audience the opportunity to experience this distinguished fragrance, though still within the refined exclusivity of the house. Unlike the opulent black crystal flacon crafted by Baccarat for the limited edition parfum, the eau de parfum was presented in Guerlain’s iconic square bottle, a design long associated with the brand’s most elegant creations. The glass was etched with an intricate rendering of the façade of the Guerlain flagship boutique at 68, Champs-Élysées, a subtle yet meaningful tribute to the very heart and heritage of the house.
This architectural engraving transforms the bottle into more than a vessel for scent—it becomes a keepsake of Guerlain’s Parisian legacy, a miniature homage to the building that has symbolized French luxury and savoir-faire for more than a century. The clean geometric lines of the bottle reflect the maison’s balance between modernity and tradition, while the detailed etching captures the artistry that defines Guerlain’s craftsmanship.
Although this edition made the fragrance more accessible than the rare black crystal version, it remained available exclusively at Maison Guerlain, preserving its sense of privilege and intimacy. To own Le Parfum du 68 in this form was to hold a piece of the Champs-Élysées itself—an emblem of timeless elegance, refined taste, and Parisian artistry, bottled for those who appreciate both the scent and the story behind it.
Eau de Cologne Imperiale 160th Anniversary Limited Edition c2013
For the 160th anniversary of the iconic bee bottle and the legendary Eau de Cologne Impériale, Guerlain released a truly monumental deluxe edition that celebrates its enduring heritage. The centerpiece is a one-litre golden bee bottle, elevated to a work of art by French artist Lison de Caunes, who adorned it with intricate straw marquetry, a painstakingly precise technique reminiscent of Art Deco craftsmanship. The straw inlay creates delicate, shimmering patterns across the surface, imbuing the bottle with both warmth and elegance, while the gilded golden hue emphasizes its regal presence.
The accompanying presentation box continues this artistry, entirely covered in matching straw marquetry and emblazoned with Guerlain’s revived Sun King logo, evoking the opulence of France’s royal perfume heritage. Each detail of this edition reflects the skill and care of artisanal French craftsmanship, transforming the bottle into a collector’s treasure rather than just a container for fragrance. Limited to thirty-two numbered pieces worldwide, this edition serves as both a tribute to Guerlain’s historical mastery and a tangible celebration of its 160-year legacy in perfumery.
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