Idylle Duet Jasmin-Lilas c2012

Idylle Duet Jasmin-Lilas by Guerlain was introduced as a limited edition in 2012, a fragrant celebration of two of the house’s most cherished flowers. The name itself—“Idylle Duet Jasmin-Lilas”—is French and can be pronounced as "ee-dil DOO-ay zha-sman lee-lah". “Idylle” evokes a romantic, poetic vision of love and serenity, suggesting a fleeting, perfect moment. The word “Duet” implies harmony, an intimate partnership, while “Jasmin-Lilas” refers directly to the two central flowers of the composition: jasmine and lilac. Together, the name conjures images of springtime gardens, sun-drenched blossoms, and a soft, enveloping floral embrace. It suggests warmth, elegance, and an intimate, sensuous beauty—an invitation to immerse oneself in the quiet magic of blooming flowers.

The fragrance was launched during a period of luxury perfumery in which artisan-crafted florals and limited editions were increasingly celebrated, particularly among collectors and connoisseurs who sought rare and region-specific ingredients. Women in 2012—attuned to both tradition and innovation—would have been drawn to Idylle Duet Jasmin-Lilas as a perfume that combined the familiar elegance of Guerlain’s house style with a fresh, almost rediscovered floral intensity. The choice of Calabrian jasmine, an exceptionally rare ingredient, lent the fragrance a sense of exclusivity and exploration, appealing to those who valued both olfactory artistry and provenance.

Classified as a floral chypre, the perfume opens with a lush, almost overwhelming abundance of Calabrian jasmine, the Jasminum grandiflorum plants of which had been rediscovered and replanted by Thierry Wasser in southern Italy. These flowers exude not only the classic floral green and honeyed notes of jasmine, but also subtle warm, fruity nuances—aromas enhanced by naturally occurring indole and benzyl acetate, giving the scent its sensual, velvety character. The heart is gently softened by mauve lilac, whose powdery and slightly sweet scent adds a delicate, romantic texture, balancing the intensity of the jasmine and creating an intimate floral duet. Lilac, rich in lilac aldehydes and coumarins, contributes a soft, elegant powderiness, evoking the sensation of sunlight on petals or a gentle spring breeze.

Idylle Duet Jasmin-Lilas sits on a classic chypre floral structure, giving it depth and warmth beneath the fresh florals. It carries a soft, sensual trail—an olfactory signature that feels simultaneously light, airy, and yet intensely feminine. In the context of other 2012 releases, it aligned with the trend of rare and regionally sourced botanicals but stood apart through the deliberate cultivation and revival of the abandoned Calabrian jasmine, offering not only a perfume but a narrative of dedication, rediscovery, and artisanal excellence. Thierry Wasser’s careful orchestration ensured that this fragrance was both modern and timeless, resonating with women who sought beauty, sophistication, and a unique story in every spritz.

From Guerlain:

"A rare alchemy between two flowers plucked from the Idylle bouquet, Idylle Duet Jasmin-Lilas celebrates the revival of the exceptional Calabrian jasmine. For this third edition, Thierry Wasser, Guerlain Perfumer and explorer in search of the most beautiful scents, discovered the very last jasminum grandiflorum plants, forgotten in this region of Italy.  An exceptional partnership with the producer made it possible to give these precious flowers with unique warm and fruity accents a new lease of life." Chypre Floral. Spring-like, intense, sensual.  Idylle Duet Jasmin-Lilas is orchestrated around an overdose of jasmine and mauve lilac. At the heart, Calabrian jasmine stands out with its sensual aromas and subtle fruity accents. Warm and delicate, it blends with the delicious powdery nuances of mauve lilac in a composition steeped in sensuality. Thierry Wasser, Guerlain Perfumer, decided - with the help of one of his producers - to replant jasminum grandiflorum, whose cultivation had been abandoned several years ago, in the sun-drenched soil of Calabria. At the request of Thierry Wasser, and after hard work, hand in hand, they succeeded in giving this exceptional jasmine a new lease of life."

 

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Idylle Duet Jasmin-Lilas is classified as a floral chypre fragrance for women.

• Top notes: bergamot, raspberry, lychee, Bulgarian rose and freesia
• Middle notes: Plessis Robinson rose, Calabrian jasmine grandiflorum, lilac, lily, peony and lily of the valley
• Base notes: musk, ambergris, sandalwood and patchouli

Scent Profile:

Idylle Duet Jasmin-Lilas unfolds as a masterful floral chypre, designed to immerse the senses in a lush, romantic garden. From the very first spritz, the top notes announce themselves with a sparkling burst of bergamot. Sourced from Calabria in southern Italy, this bergamot is celebrated for its bright, citrusy aroma tinged with floral sweetness, underpinned by naturally occurring limonene, linalyl acetate, and linalool. Its effervescence awakens the senses and provides a luminous opening, perfectly complemented by the juicy, velvety sweetness of raspberry and the exotic, slightly floral freshness of lychee. The lychee, often cultivated in subtropical regions, lends a creamy, succulent facet that balances the citrus and softens the initial zing. Interwoven with these fruits is the delicate aroma of Bulgarian rose, rich and opulent, characterized by phenylethyl alcohol, geraniol, and citronellol, providing the scent with its signature rosy warmth, while the airy touch of freesia imparts a fresh, green, floral brightness, lifting the top notes into an ethereal bouquet.

The heart of the fragrance is a symphony of blooms. The Plessis Robinson rose contributes a velvety depth, its petals exuding a powdery, honeyed nuance that enhances the luxurious character of the perfume. At the center is Calabrian jasmine grandiflorum, a rediscovered gem of southern Italy, hand-cultivated under Thierry Wasser’s direction. This jasmine exudes a rich, sensual aroma, with indolic warmth and fruity undertones that feel simultaneously intimate and radiant, making it the unmistakable soul of the composition. Lilac follows with its powdery, almost ethereal sweetness, nuanced with aldehydic lift, giving the impression of morning dew on soft petals. Supporting florals—lily, peony, and lily of the valley—weave in layers of freshness, green nuance, and airy innocence. The lily’s subtle amaryllidaceous facets provide elegance and creamy brightness, while peony adds a gentle rosy-fruity softness. Lily of the valley, with its high content of hydroxycitronellal, offers a light, sparkling green floral tone, evoking gentle springtime breezes. Together, these flowers form a duet of elegance, perfectly balancing richness and lightness.

Finally, the base notes ground the composition in a warm, enveloping sensuality. Musk provides a soft, animalic warmth that clings to the skin, enhancing the florals above with a velvety, intimate aura. Ambergris, rare and precious, introduces a sweet, slightly marine, and resinous nuance, carrying traces of ambrein, which contributes depth and longevity to the fragrance. Sandalwood, with its creamy, milky sweetness, sourced traditionally from Mysore, India, supports the warmth while harmonizing the floral heart with its woody elegance. Patchouli, earthy and rich, adds a subtle bitter undertone and depth, its naturally occurring patchoulol and α-bulnesene providing an enduring, grounding finish. The careful combination of these natural ingredients with selected synthetics ensures a consistent, polished composition that highlights the nuance of each note while amplifying their longevity and sillage.

Idylle Duet Jasmin-Lilas is a true floral chypre, where each element is deliberately sourced and crafted to create a sensuous, layered experience. From the sparkling citrus and fruit top to the voluptuous floral heart and finally the warm, comforting embrace of the base, every ingredient contributes to a perfumed narrative of springtime elegance, sensuality, and timeless sophistication.

Bottle:

Available in 50ml Eau de Parfum.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Idylle Love Blossom traces its origins to 2012, when Guerlain first introduced it as a limited edition under the name Idylle Duet Jasmin-Lilas. The fragrance quickly became celebrated for its luxurious floral chypre composition, yet the initial edition was eventually discontinued, making it a rare collector’s item. In 2014, Guerlain revived the perfume, reimagining it as Idylle Love Blossom, breathing new life into the beloved scent while preserving the olfactory heart that had captivated its first audience.

The relaunch retained the essential character of its predecessor: an exuberant floral bouquet centered on the rediscovered Calabrian jasmine grandiflorum, renowned for its sensual, warm, and subtly fruity nuances. Surrounding this jewel-like jasmine were layers of lilac, Plessis Robinson rose, lily, peony, and lily of the valley, which together created a luminous, springtime freshness. The top notes opened with sparkling citrus and fruit—bergamot, raspberry, lychee, and Bulgarian rose—offering an immediate lift and radiant sweetness. The base notes, grounding the composition, included soft musk, ambergris, creamy sandalwood, and earthy patchouli, providing warmth, depth, and longevity.

By relaunching as Idylle Love Blossom, Guerlain not only revived a rare fragrance but also modernized it for a new generation of perfume enthusiasts. The name evokes romantic imagery and the delicate unfolding of blossoms, resonating with women who sought a floral fragrance that was simultaneously elegant, sensual, and celebratory of springtime beauty. This perfume, in both its original and revived incarnations, embodies Guerlain’s signature artistry: a sophisticated balance between historical floral richness and contemporary refinement.

La Petite Robe Noire Eau Fraiche - Ma Nouvelle Robe Pétales c2015

La Petite Robe Noire Eau Fraiche (Ma Robe Pétales) by Guerlain was introduced in March 2015 as a lighter, more playful flanker to the iconic La Petite Robe Noire fragrance. The launch was celebrated with a high-profile press event at Moscow’s Bolshoi Theatre, underscoring the perfume’s luxurious positioning and its appeal to sophisticated, fashion-conscious audiences. The name, in French, translates literally to “The Little Black Dress Fresh Water (My Petal Dress)” and is pronounced roughly as "la puh-tit rohb nwar oh fresh (ma rob pay-tal)". It evokes images of effortless elegance, flirtatious charm, and feminine grace—a delicate black dress adorned with soft petals, ready for a springtime soirée or an intimate evening out. The fragrance’s very title conveys freshness, movement, and the subtle flirtation of a garden in bloom, aligning perfectly with Guerlain’s tradition of combining sartorial imagery with olfactory artistry.

The mid-2010s, when this perfume debuted, were marked by a trend toward lighter, more wearable floral and green scents, reflecting a broader global fascination with natural freshness and a desire for fragrances that could transition easily from day to evening. Women of the time were increasingly seeking perfumes that were playful yet elegant, modern yet rooted in the heritage of classic perfumery. In this context, La Petite Robe Noire Eau Fraiche (Ma Robe Pétales) appealed to women who appreciated the storytelling and whimsy of Guerlain’s black dress motif but desired a composition that felt airy, luminous, and contemporary.

Created by Guerlain’s in-house master perfumer Thierry Wasser, the fragrance is classified as a green floral, capturing the essence of spring gardens with light, sparkling notes. Its scent composition is both elegant and approachable, balancing floral brightness with green freshness in a way that harmonized with market trends of the period, yet retained Guerlain’s signature sophistication. In comparison to other fragrances available in 2015, it blended the house’s storied heritage with a modern sensibility—light, flirtatious, and effortlessly chic—making it a standout choice for women seeking both refinement and freshness in their daily fragrance wardrobe.

La Petite Robe Noire Eau Fraiche (Ma Robe Pétales) unfolds as a playful and luminous interpretation of Guerlain’s iconic black dress motif, described by the house as the “new Petals Dress.” The fragrance is presented in the instantly recognizable rounded glass bottle, its inverted heart-shaped cap perched like a crown atop the tenderly green lacquered flacon. The sketch of the low-cut petal dress on the bottle is rendered in black ink, creating a visual harmony with the translucent glass that hints at the freshness and lightness contained within. This playful exterior signals the scent’s character: sparkling, merry, and full of the joie de vivre that defines Guerlain’s modern elegance.

On first inhalation, the top notes burst with sparkling mandarin, a citrus that radiates bright, effervescent energy, evoking the sensation of sunlight hitting dewy spring gardens. The initial citrusy zest is enhanced by a delicate rain of green notes, imparting a crisp, almost watery freshness that lifts the spirit. As the heart unfolds, rose petals emerge with a tender floral warmth, interlaced with freesia and apricot, adding a luminous, slightly fruity nuance. These elements evoke the soft caress of spring blooms, their airy, sparkling facets dancing in harmony with subtle solar notes that suggest sun-dappled petals and the gentle warmth of daylight.

The fragrance’s gourmand signature is revealed in the heart’s pistachio, a savory, slightly nutty note that Guerlain has long used as a hallmark of the house style. Its presence adds depth and textural intrigue, balancing the florals with a creamy, subtly gourmand gourmand accent. In the base, white musk and patchouli create a soft, lingering halo, wrapping the wearer in a silky, comforting veil that blends delicacy with sensuality. The musk lends an airy warmth, while patchouli adds understated earthiness, grounding the airy florals in a subtle, elegant complexity.

Thierry Wasser’s composition exemplifies a masterful orchestration of floral and green elements, interwoven with gourmand and woody nuances. The fragrance captures the poetry of spring flowers—vivid, sparkling, and infinitely feminine—while retaining Guerlain’s signature sophistication. It is both fresh and flirtatious, a modern reinterpretation of the “Little Black Dress” motif: essential, glamorous, and irresistibly chic, designed to enchant the senses while celebrating the joyful elegance of the Maison Guerlain.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a green floral fragrance for women.

• Top notes: bergamot, tangerine, mandarin orange, lemon, green notes, orange blossom
• Middle notes: freesia, apricot, almond blossom, Turkish rose, Bulgarian Rose, jasmine Sambac
• Base notes: solar notes, pistachio, almond, tonka bean, patchouli, white musk

Scent Profile:

La Petite Robe Noire Eau Fraîche (Ma Robe Pétales) opens with a radiant burst of bergamot, tangerine, mandarin orange, and lemon, each playing a role in creating a sparkling citrus overture. The bergamot, grown in Calabria, Italy, offers a uniquely bright, slightly floral citrusiness with subtle green nuances, richer and rounder than other bergamot varieties. The tangerine and mandarin orange contribute a soft, sweet tanginess, while the lemon adds a sharp, zesty lift. Interwoven among these citrus notes are green notes, imparting a crisp, freshly cut leaf aroma that evokes early spring meadows, and orange blossom, whose delicate floral sweetness is simultaneously soft, radiant, and almost luminous. The effect is like opening a sun-drenched bouquet of dewy flowers at dawn, both vibrant and effervescent.

In the heart, the fragrance deepens into a symphony of floral and fruity nuances. Freesia contributes a bright, airy freshness with subtly peppery undertones, reminiscent of crisp spring air. Apricot adds a soft, juicy sweetness, balancing the florals with a lightly gourmand touch. Almond blossom brings delicate nutty, powdery facets that are ethereal yet slightly gourmand, creating a subtle creamy undertone. The composition is elevated by Turkish rose and Bulgarian rose, each distinguished by their country of origin: Turkish rose (Rosa damascena) is lush, warm, and intensely floral, with fruity hints, while Bulgarian rose is celebrated for its deep, rich, and honeyed aroma, providing a rounded, velvety body to the floral bouquet. Jasmine Sambac completes the heart with a radiant, almost solar floral note, dense and sweet, yet transparent, adding sensuality and lifting the bouquet with a delicate creaminess.

The base is a soft, enveloping halo that balances the brightness of the opening. Solar notes provide a luminous warmth, evoking the gentle touch of sunlight on petals. Pistachio and almond introduce a tender, creamy nuttiness, subtly gourmand without overwhelming the florals. Tonka bean enhances this gourmand facet further, bringing soft hints of vanilla, spice, and warmth. Patchouli adds earthy depth and structure, balancing the sweetness of the heart and providing a whisper of sophistication. Finally, white musk wraps the composition in a delicate, airy veil, enhancing longevity while keeping the overall effect fresh, soft, and ethereal.

Together, the fragrance unfolds as a celebration of springtime elegance: sparkling, gourmand, and softly floral, with each ingredient carefully selected to contribute to a harmonious and playful green-floral composition. The combination of rare regional ingredients—Calabrian bergamot, Turkish and Bulgarian roses, jasmine Sambac—with gourmand accents and modern green notes ensures a fragrance that is both whimsical and unmistakably Guerlain in its sophistication and artistry.

Bottles:

Available as:

• 30 ml Eau Fraiche
• 50 ml Eau Fraiche
• 100 ml Eau Fraiche
• 250 ml Eau Fraiche in white bee flacon (295,00 €)

Fleurs de Serre c1878

Launched around 1878, Fleurs de Serre by Guerlain takes its name from the French words for “Flowers of the Greenhouse,” pronounced roughly as "flur duh sair". The name evokes images of glass-domed conservatories filled with rare and exotic blooms, where the air is heavy with the intoxicating scent of carefully nurtured flowers. It conjures a sense of refined luxury, private indulgence, and an intimate connection with nature, capturing the romanticized charm of the greenhouse—a symbol of status and taste during the Belle Époque. The title itself suggests a controlled, cultivated elegance: the delicate blooms of the greenhouse, nurtured by human hands, transformed into a fragrance to be worn and admired.

The fragrance emerged during the Belle Époque, a period of optimism, cultural flourish, and technological progress in Europe, particularly France. During this era, the upper classes indulged in horticultural hobbies, cultivating their own personal greenhouses or conservatories to grow exotic plants and flowers that would otherwise not survive in the local climate. These structures were not only practical but a status symbol, reflecting wealth, sophistication, and the mastery of nature. In fashion and perfumery, this translated into a fascination with exotic florals and carefully composed bouquets, where perfumers sought to capture the essence of cultivated luxury in their compositions.

Fleurs de Serre would have been immediately appealing to women of the period, particularly those in the upper echelons of society who were accustomed to the private pleasures of conservatories and floral displays. The scent was interpreted as a lush, elegant floral fragrance, evoking the freshness of morning dew on petals and the rich, layered aroma of greenhouse-kept flowers. Its classification as a floral fragrance allowed it to align with the period’s preference for natural yet cultivated scents, capturing the sophistication and refinement expected of a luxury perfume. In the market of the late 19th century, while floral fragrances were widely popular, Fleurs de Serre stood out for its thematic connection to the exoticism and controlled opulence of greenhouse horticulture, marrying the natural with the cultivated in a way that was both modern and emblematic of the Belle Époque’s indulgent tastes.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Fleurs de Serre would unfold like stepping into a sun-drenched conservatory, where rare and exotic flowers bloom in a carefully orchestrated symphony. The top notes would likely greet you with the bright, dewy freshness of freshly cut petals, mingling with the subtle citrusy brightness of bergamot or orange—if Guerlain included a citrus touch as a lift, common in floral compositions of the period. This initial impression would be airy, luminous, and almost sparkling, like morning sunlight hitting water droplets on delicate blooms.

In the heart of the fragrance, the lush florals would emerge fully. Imagine rich tuberose, ylang-ylang, violet, and jasmine intertwined, each contributing its unique aroma: tuberose with its creamy, slightly animalic sweetness; ylang-ylang with a tropical, custardy warmth; violet with soft powdery violet leaves; and jasmine offering its opulent, indolic depth. These middle notes would evoke the heady, intoxicating atmosphere of a greenhouse filled with exotic blooms, dense but never overwhelming—a cultivated bouquet meant to convey elegance and refinement.

The base would linger like the moist earth and wooden supports of the conservatory itself, grounding the scent with warm, subtle musks, soft orris, and perhaps a hint of sandalwood or amber to add depth and longevity. The overall effect would be a sophisticated, layered floral: simultaneously fresh and powdery, delicate yet luxurious, evoking the intimate pleasure of a private garden filled with extraordinary blossoms. Worn, it would feel like a statement of cultivated taste and understated opulence, a perfume that whispers refinement rather than shouts.

De wereldtentoonstelling van 1878 te Parijs, 1878:

"GUERLAIN DE PARIS 15 rue de la Paix - Highly recommended and vogue articles: Eau de Cologne Impériale, Sapoceti toilet soap, Crême saponin, Ambrosial cream for the beard, Crême de Fraises to soften the skin, Poudre de Cypris for the skin white, the luxurious Crystallized Stilboide for the beard and hair, Eau Athénienne and Eau Lustrale to perfume and wash the head. For the handkerchief: Shore's Caprice, Parfum de France, Fleurs Nouvelles, Pao Rosa, Fleurs de Serre, Bouquet Imperial Russe. For the toilette: Eau de Cédrat and Eau de Chypre."

Journal des demoiselles, 1878:

"After the chill of winter, the fatigue of balls and social gatherings, and the sudden fluctuations of March weather, many young women and girls find their complexions dulled and tired. To restore the natural radiance and freshness of the face, Guerlain offers a range of carefully crafted preparations: Strawberry Cream, which can also be used as a soothing hand cream; Velvet Paste; and La Ferté Balm for the lips. These luxurious products may be used with complete confidence, and those who try them are sure to praise their effectiveness.

Monsieur Guerlain also provides a piece of essential advice: never apply rice powder over a layer of cold cream. Instead, alternate the use of these two cosmetics. The rice powder should be finely milled so that it adheres directly to the skin, applied with a puff, and removed gently by hand when needed.

For those who enjoy perfuming their handkerchiefs, Guerlain recommends the newest fragrances: Fleurs de Serre and Pao-Rosa, the latter offering a slightly more pronounced bouquet. The timeless classics, Perfume of France and Russian Imperial Bouquet, remain ever in fashion, securing their place as enduring favorites of French perfumery."

Bottles:

Presented in the Carre flacon.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown 

Shalimar - Nuit des Indes - Exceptional Flacon 2014

The Shalimar Exceptional Limited Edition Collector’s Flacon for Christmas 2014, christened Shalimar Indian Nights by Maison Gripoix, represents the pinnacle of perfume artistry and decorative mastery. At its heart lies Shalimar extrait, the purest and most voluptuous expression of Guerlain’s iconic oriental fragrance, contained within a monumental 1.5-litre cobalt blue crystal flacon masterfully crafted by Waltersperger. The deep midnight blue of the crystal, with its multiple meticulously faceted surfaces, captures and refracts light, producing a hypnotic interplay of shadow and shimmer that mirrors the allure and mystery of the fragrance itself.

Encircling the neck of this monumental bottle is a Gripoix necklace of extraordinary refinement: two rows of precious sapphire-colored glass beads, interwoven with glimmering iridescent pearls, set against rich 24-karat gold mounts. This exquisite adornment recalls the ceremonial garlands of flowers bestowed upon ancient Egyptian pharaohs and nobility, a symbol of both reverence and opulence. The jewel-like neck elevates the flacon from a vessel to a wearable objet d’art, a testimony to Maison Gripoix’s unmatched expertise in glass paste, enameling, and gilding—a craft the Parisian house has refined since 1828.

Limited to only 40 numbered copies worldwide and retailing at €9,500, this edition is as rare as it is breathtaking. The perfume within is the ultimate embodiment of oriental sophistication: a luminous burst of bergamot opens the senses with a sparkling freshness, quickly softened by an enveloping bouquet of iris, jasmine, and rose, each flower rendered in the densest, most sensual concentration. Beneath this floral heart, vanilla, opopanax, and tonka bean provide a rich, resonant base, exuding warmth and depth. In this colossal 1.5-litre format, Shalimar reaches the apex of its legendary sensuality—a provocative secret encased in a jewel of crystal and gold.

This edition is more than a perfume; it is a celebration of artistry, craftsmanship, and history. Waltersperger’s monumental glass, combined with Gripoix’s couture jewelry expertise, forms a dialogue between tradition and luxury, a perfect union of perfumer and artisan. The Shalimar Indian Nights flacon embodies a rare fusion of fragrance and finery, a tangible testament to Guerlain’s enduring devotion to both olfactory and visual beauty.

From Guerlain:

"For the first time ever, Guerlain is offering a special edition of the giant Shalimar glass bottle in a deep midnight blue. Thanks the tour de force of glass maker Waltersperger, the format and colour take the beauty of this exceptional bottle, whose multiple facets attain their full glory, to a new level. Guerlain commissioned Gripoix to put the sublime finishing touches on this amazing work of art. A perfect pairing between the perfumer, a devotee of craftsmanship since 1828, and the Paris couture jewellery maker. Jewels in hundreds deep blue glass and iridescent pearls mounted on fine 24 carats gold adorn he neck of the bottle. A finery fit for a prince and a symbol of the mystery and sensuality of the Shalimar legend. Only 40 numbered pieces are available worldwide.

In Extract form, the first ever oriental reaches the height of voluptuousness. Like a provocative secret, the dark bottle hides the warm amber tones of this decadent concentration. With a fresh opening burst of bergamot, followed by an enveloping armful of iris, jasmine and rose, over a vanilla, opopanax and tonka bean base. 1.5 litres of extreme sensuality…

 Founded in 1869, Gripoix has earned its reputation as the ultimate Parisian couture jewellery house and preserved the art of glass paste.These jewellery creations, steeped in precious emotions, are an encounter between the traditional art and know-how of adornment-makers, stone-setters, gilders and enamellers. True magicians whose skills bring these adornments to life."

 

 

Le Bolshoi - Black Swan - Saison 2014

Le Bolshoi – Black Swan by Guerlain, launched in 2014, continues the House’s ongoing homage to the prestigious Bolshoi Theatre in Moscow. This third edition for the theatre is presented in the familiar quadrilobe flacon, a shape long associated with Guerlain’s artistry, topped with a delicate atomizer that immediately evokes the elegance of classic perfume rituals. Unlike the two previous editions, which contained Les Secrets de Sophie, this iteration introduces a new olfactory journey—one described as woody, milky, fresh, and sparkling, centered around a prominent sandalwood note.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral woody musk fragrance for women.

• Top notes: milky accord, mandarin, lemon and bergamot
• Middle notes: lily of the valley, violet, rose and jasmine
• Base notes: white musk, vanilla, sandalwood and cedar

Scent Profile:

Le Bolshoi – Black Swan unfolds as a masterful floral woody musk, immediately inviting with its luminous top notes. The first impression is the delicate milky accord, smooth and comforting, reminiscent of soft silk brushing against the skin. Layered atop this are zesty citrus bursts: mandarin, lemon, and bergamot. Each brings its own character—the mandarin exudes sweet, sunny warmth, the lemon adds a sparkling brightness, and the bergamot offers a slightly green, aromatic nuance with a subtle bitterness that balances the sweet and creamy facets of the milk accord. Together, these top notes create an effervescent, airy opening that feels fresh yet sensually enveloping.

The heart of the fragrance blossoms into a bouquet of delicate florals. Lily of the valley offers a crisp, dewy freshness, often described as the scent of spring air after rain. Its natural hydroxycitronellal molecules give it a sweet, clean aroma, evoking purity and innocence. Violet lends powdery and green nuances, with its aldehydic facets adding a soft sophistication. The rose, likely a French or Bulgarian variety prized for its deep, honeyed richness, introduces warmth and sensuality through its natural citronellol and geraniol, which are responsible for its velvety, slightly spicy aroma. Finally, jasmine—potentially Sambac or Grandiflorum—adds a luminous, intoxicating floral opulence. Its naturally occurring benzyl acetate, indole, and jasmone provide both the creamy and slightly animalic aspects that enrich the composition. Together, the middle notes are intensely feminine, radiating elegance and depth while bridging the sparkling top with the sensual base.

The base notes provide a lingering, irresistible trail. White musk imparts a soft, skin-like warmth that enhances the florals and woods, creating a modern, sensuous aura. Vanilla, sourced perhaps from Madagascar, offers a sweet, slightly smoky richness, its vanillin molecules amplifying the creamy aspects of the milky accord while adding gourmand depth. Sandalwood, likely from Mysore or a similar high-quality origin, contributes velvety, woody creaminess, rich in natural santalols, giving the perfume a long-lasting, warm foundation. Finally, cedar adds structure and subtle dry woodiness, balancing the sweetness and keeping the fragrance elegant and refined.

In its entirety, this fragrance is a harmonious interplay of airy freshness, lush floral complexity, and creamy, sensual woods and musk. Each ingredient works in concert: the top notes spark with vitality, the middle notes seduce with timeless floral sophistication, and the base provides an intimate, enveloping finish that lingers softly on the skin. The perfume captures the essence of refinement and theatrical elegance, paying homage to the grandeur of the Bolshoi while remaining approachable, wearable, and deeply feminine.

Bottles:

Le Bolshoi – Black Swan was released as an exclusive creation, available only in limited quantities in Moscow, a testament to its unique collaboration with the Bolshoi Theatre. Housed in the signature Guerlain quadrilobe flacon topped with a classic atomizer, the perfume carried a sense of both elegance and theatrical grandeur, reflecting the prestige of the historic stage it celebrated.

The limited distribution and carefully curated quantity emphasized the rarity of the fragrance, making it a coveted collector’s item for connoisseurs and admirers of Guerlain’s artistry. Its 60ml flacon, retailing at 375 €, positioned it as a luxurious yet attainable indulgence for those seeking an exceptional scent experience. This exclusivity also reinforced the perfume’s intimate connection to Moscow’s cultural heritage, allowing wearers to carry a piece of the city’s operatic and ballet legacy with them.

In essence, the fragrance was not merely a scent but a celebration of artistry, performance, and refined craftsmanship—a limited-edition jewel designed for the most discerning collectors and admirers of Guerlain’s timeless elegance.

La Malle de Voyage - 160 Year Anniversary of the Bee Bottle c2013

La Malle de Voyage, created in 2013, stands as a striking celebration of Guerlain’s heritage, commemorating the 160th anniversary of the iconic bee bottle, or Abeille flacon. This extraordinary project brought together nine Maîtres d’art from the Institut National des Métiers d’Art (INMA) of France, granting each artisan complete creative freedom to design around a monumental one-litre bee bottle. The resulting pieces are not merely perfume containers but singular works of art—each a one-of-a-kind masterpiece embodying the finest craftsmanship of contemporary French artisans.

The artistic trunks were first displayed at the Maison Guerlain on the Champs-Élysées from December 2013 through February 2014 and later featured in Guerlain’s Exclusive Line Doors exhibitions in 2014, documented through both photographs and videos. These creations were destined not only as collector pieces but also to support the “Maîtres d’art – Students” initiative, ensuring that rare, exceptional skills are passed from master artists to apprentices under the supervision of the INMA.

 

Serge Amoruso, a Maître d’art specializing in rare leathers and trained at Hermès in traditional historical leather techniques, contributed a particularly striking trunk. His design, La Malle de Voyage (“The Travel Trunk”), is presented as two identical sections, split like a lightning bolt or a broken mold, evoking both movement and energy. The materials chosen are extraordinary: sumptuous red Morocco leather, delicately stamped parchment on the interior, midnight blue shagreen, and contrasting carbon fiber on the exterior. A fragment of meteorite crowns the trunk, symbolically opening the “doors of time” and infusing the work with a celestial, almost otherworldly allure.

Every element of La Malle de Voyage balances tradition and modernity, merging historical craftsmanship with contemporary artistic vision. The trunk exemplifies Guerlain’s dedication to artistic excellence and the preservation of rare artisanal skills, transforming the perfume bottle into a sculptural, narrative object that embodies both luxury and imagination.

Cananga Blanc 1879

Cananga Blanc by Guerlain, launched in 1879 and created by Aimé Guerlain, is a poetic homage to one of nature’s most opulent blossoms — Cananga odorata, better known as ylang-ylang. The name “Cananga Blanc” translates from French to “White Cananga,” pronounced kah-NAHN-gah blahnk. The choice of name evokes purity, elegance, and a sense of tropical luminosity softened by refinement. It suggests a flower bathed in morning light, its creamy petals glistening with dew — a vision that balances exotic warmth with the delicacy expected from a Parisian perfume house.

The ylang-ylang tree, native to the Philippines and Indonesia, thrives in humid tropical climates where its glossy leaves and star-shaped yellow blossoms release a heady perfume at dusk. The essential oil is extracted through fractional steam distillation, a process that separates the oil into several grades depending on when the volatile molecules are released. The first fraction — called ylang-ylang extra — captures the most ethereal, floral, and jasmine-like molecules such as linalool, benzyl acetate, and methyl benzoate, lending brightness and radiance. The deeper fractions yield heavier, more sensual notes rich in p-cresyl methyl ether and benzyl salicylate, which contribute creamy, slightly spicy, and animalic tones. It is this duality — airy and radiant above, sultry and narcotic below — that makes ylang-ylang an olfactory marvel.

The epithet “Blanc” (meaning “white”) was a deliberate contrast to the sensual richness of the raw material itself. In the 19th century, “white” symbolized purity, refinement, and modernity — qualities admired in the emerging urban sophisticate. Guerlain’s Cananga Blanc would have conjured an image of tropical exoticism tempered by Parisian grace, a fragrance that felt both foreign and familiar. Women of the late Victorian era, often bound by social restraint, were drawn to perfumes that suggested refinement with a whisper of sensuality beneath. Cananga Blanc provided exactly that balance: a floral bouquet that glowed with innocence yet carried the mysterious warmth of distant islands.

 

The late 1870s were part of the Belle Époque’s early stirrings, a time of industrial progress, artistic innovation, and heightened attention to luxury and beauty. Perfumery was entering a new age of sophistication, as scientific discovery and artistry began to intertwine. Natural materials such as ylang-ylang, jasmine, and rose were still dominant, but perfumers like Aimé Guerlain were beginning to explore the possibilities of synthetic aroma chemicals, allowing them to refine and elevate natural scents. Cananga Blanc reflected this shift — it maintained the authenticity of tropical flower essences while incorporating modern techniques to create a smoother, more enduring impression.

In the landscape of 19th-century perfumery, Cananga Blanc was both timeless and trend-aware. The popularity of ylang-ylang had already been established — nearly every major perfumery had a version — yet Guerlain’s interpretation stood apart for its elegance and restraint. Rather than drowning the composition in the flower’s narcotic sweetness, Aimé Guerlain allowed the luminous, creamy facets to shine, pairing them with subtle citrus or powdery undertones that gave the perfume a silken texture.

To a woman of the 1880s, Cananga Blanc would have represented the romance of the tropics filtered through the lens of French refinement — the scent of faraway shores captured in crystal, at once daring and decorous. In scent, the name “Cananga Blanc” translates to sunlight on white petals, a whisper of jasmine and custard, and the lingering caress of warm, polished skin — the embodiment of exotic beauty made elegant and eternal.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Cananga Blanc is classified as a floral musk fragrance — more specifically, a soft floral musk with powdery undertones.

• Top notes: bergamot, lemon, neroli, cananga
• Middle notes: bitter almond, jasmine, ylang ylang
• Base notes: orris, musk

Scent Profile:

Cananga Blanc unfolds like a quiet sunrise over a tropical garden, its opening notes awakening the senses with a luminous freshness that softens gracefully into creamy florals and a tender, powdery base. It is a floral musk, delicate yet resonant — a harmony of citrus light, white blossoms, and silken musks that together form a portrait of restrained exoticism wrapped in Parisian refinement.

The perfume begins with the vivid sparkle of bergamot and lemon, two quintessential citrus oils sourced from southern Italy — Calabrian bergamot with its green, floral brightness, and Sicilian lemon prized for its effervescent zest. Bergamot’s complex composition includes linalyl acetate, limonene, and bergapten, which give the fragrance both sparkle and softness, its slightly floral nuance tempering the lemon’s sharp acidity. The combination evokes the impression of fresh linens warmed by sunlight, their brightness perfectly balanced to avoid harshness. Interwoven through this freshness is the sweet, honeyed whisper of neroli, the precious distillation of bitter orange blossoms from the orchards of Tunisia. Neroli’s high linalool and nerolidol content lends a soft, waxy luminosity, bridging citrus to flower, light to warmth.

Then comes cananga, the namesake of the perfume — Cananga odorata, the tropical tree native to the Philippines and Indonesia. Its fragrance is velvety and golden, recalling both jasmine and custard, but darker, more sensual, and slightly leathery. Steam-distilled directly from the tree’s yellow blossoms, cananga oil contains benzyl acetate, p-cresyl methyl ether, and methyl benzoate, which together create its unique creamy, floral-animalic tone. Compared to ylang-ylang “extra” — the highest grade obtained from the same tree — cananga’s scent is deeper and earthier, less refined but richer in character, as if the tropical sun itself had melted into the petals. Guerlain’s inclusion of this note gives Cananga Blanc its dual personality: purity touched by sensual warmth, exoticism tamed by elegance.

The heart of the fragrance unfolds with bitter almond, jasmine, and ylang-ylang. The almond accord is both gourmand and nostalgic — created using benzaldehyde, which imparts the familiar aroma of marzipan and cherry pits. Its slight bitterness counterbalances the lush sweetness of the florals. Jasmine, likely of the Grasse or Egyptian variety, adds narcotic depth, its indoles and benzyl alcohols bringing both radiance and animalic warmth. When combined with the creamy, banana-like sweetness of ylang-ylang — itself derived from the same Cananga tree, but from a different distillation — the perfume blossoms into a soft, buttery floral cloud. The natural indolic tones are refined by gentle synthetics, ensuring that the floral richness remains enveloping yet transparent, never cloying.

As the scent settles, the orris root emerges, lending a powdery sophistication that feels like the faint trace of face powder on silk gloves. Extracted from aged rhizomes of the iris pallida of Tuscany, orris butter contains ionones and irones, which give it its violet-like, suede texture. It anchors the perfume with elegance, transforming the earlier florals into something timeless and tactile. Finally, musk — originally of animal origin but now recreated synthetically — brings a clean, sensual finish. Modern musks such as galaxolide and muscone replicate the warmth of skin freshly bathed, their diffusive smoothness enhancing the natural materials without overpowering them.

Smelled as a whole, Cananga Blanc feels like a soft white veil scented by sunlight and blossoms — citrus brightness fading into the creamy heart of tropical flowers, then settling into a whisper of powder and skin. The interplay of natural absolutes and synthetics gives the perfume its dual magic: the authentic texture of real petals and the luminescent clarity of an idealized dream. It is both delicate and enduring, like the lingering fragrance of white blooms carried on a warm evening breeze.

Bottles:

It was a perfume that was available in the carre flacon.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown. It was still being sold in 1903.