Cedrat c1838

Launched around 1838, Cédrat—pronounced “say-drah”—was one of Pierre-François Pascal Guerlain’s earliest creations, a fragrance inspired by the radiant freshness of the citron fruit. The name itself is the French word for “citron,” a large, thick-skinned citrus fruit native to the Mediterranean. To the 19th-century ear, “Cédrat” evoked both the brightness of southern sunlight and the refinement of classical luxury, conjuring images of orchards along the Amalfi Coast or the terraced groves of Corsica, where the air is filled with the mingled perfume of citrus blossoms and sea breeze.

The citron (Citrus medica) was among the first citrus fruits known in Europe, prized since antiquity for its aromatic rind rather than its bitter pulp. In perfumery, its essential oil—cold-pressed from the peel—is treasured for its sparkling, dry, and slightly resinous character. Unlike the sweeter bergamot or orange, citron’s scent has a more austere, lemony sharpness tinged with green woods and faint spice. This complex freshness comes from natural molecules such as limonene, citral, and β-pinene, which lend brightness and clarity, while a trace of linalool adds floral lift. Guerlain’s Cédrat would have distilled these characteristics into a refined essence that felt simultaneously invigorating and elegant—ideal for the tastes of the mid-19th century, when “eaux de toilette” and “eaux de cologne” were fashionable luxuries among the European elite.

Citron’s symbolism in the Victorian language of flowers was tied to purity, cheerfulness, and freshness of spirit—a fitting association for a fragrance that seemed to bottle sunlight itself. In a society that valued refinement and restraint, Cédrat offered women a scent of sophistication that was both bright and decorous. It suggested vitality without sensual excess, making it suitable for daily wear during a time when heavier perfumes were often reserved for evening or court occasions.

The late 1830s, when Cédrat was introduced, marked the dawn of the Romantic period in both art and society. It was an age of fascination with nature, travel, and the exotic—a world of poets, botanists, and explorers. In fashion, women wore delicate muslin gowns and pastel silks; their toilette tables displayed crystal bottles filled with floral waters and citrus essences imported from Italy or the South of France. Guerlain’s shop, newly established on the Rue de Rivoli in Paris, catered to this refined clientele, offering perfumes that embodied lightness, grace, and modernity.

A fragrance named Cédrat would have been instantly appealing to women of this era. It evoked the romance of distant lands—the sun-warmed citrus groves of the Mediterranean, the soft rustle of lace parasols in seaside villas, and the optimism of a new century. Its scent would be interpreted as the essence of clarity and cleanliness, a luminous veil of freshness that reflected both good taste and cultivated sensibility.

While many perfumers of the 19th century produced their own “Cédrat” waters or essences, Guerlain’s interpretation likely stood out for its refinement and complexity. Pierre-François Pascal Guerlain had an unrivaled gift for balance; even his simplest citrus compositions displayed an elegance that set them apart. His Cédrat would not have been a mere “toilet water,” but rather a delicate orchestration of citrus, floral, and subtle balsamic undertones—transforming the straightforward brightness of citron into something enduring and elegant.

In the broader context of its time, Cédrat aligned with the prevailing trends for clean, naturalistic scents—descendants of the 18th-century eaux de cologne tradition—but it also hinted at Guerlain’s emerging sophistication. It prefigured the perfumer’s later genius for layering brightness with warmth, simplicity with depth. In Cédrat, we can already sense the beginnings of that distinctly Guerlain touch: a radiant freshness softened by refinement, a harmony of sunlight and silk.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Originally a vibrant, fresh composition, this fragrance captures the sparkling essence of citrus blossoms blended with aromatic undertones, evoking the bright, breezy elegance of a Mediterranean garden. Classified as a citrus aromatic fragrance for women.

• Top notes: lemon and bergamot
• Middle notes:
• Base notes: cedar

Scent Profile:

Imagine opening the flacon and being met instantly with a burst of sunlight — that first inhalation of lemon is dazzling, bright, and crystalline, like rays of light caught in glass. Italian lemons, particularly those from Sicily or the Amalfi Coast, are prized for their high content of limonene, the molecule responsible for their effervescent, sparkling top note. But within that brightness lies complexity: traces of citral give the lemon a tart, almost green sharpness, while linalool and β-pinene add a touch of floral and piney smoothness. The effect is pure exhilaration — a crisp morning breeze, freshly peeled rind, and the sensation of cool water over warm skin. In perfumery, lemon oil provides that instant lift, the opening brilliance that awakens the senses before it mellows into warmth.

Then, as the lemon’s sparkle softens, bergamot unfurls — gentler, rounder, and more refined. The bergamot, sourced from Calabria in southern Italy, has long been considered the finest in the world. Its delicate aroma is a marriage of citrus and blossom, both tart and lightly floral, thanks to its complex chemical composition: linalyl acetate imparts a smooth, almost pear-like sweetness; linalool adds a gentle petal-like freshness; and a whisper of bergapten gives depth and subtle warmth. Together, they form an elegant bridge between the citrus zest of the top and the aromatic heart below. While modern perfumers often enhance bergamot’s brightness with synthetics such as citronellal or hedione, these additions serve to extend the natural radiance of the oil, ensuring that the fragrance glows on the skin longer than nature alone could sustain.

As the initial effervescence subsides, the scent begins to settle into its tranquil base of cedar. The cedarwood — most likely from the Atlas Mountains of Morocco or the forests of Virginia — offers a serene counterpoint to the citrus sparkle above. Its dry, resinous character brings structure and calm, grounding the composition with notes of clean wood, faint pencil shavings, and sun-warmed bark. Naturally rich in cedrol and thujopsene, cedar imparts a smooth, almost creamy woodiness that lingers delicately, never heavy. Synthetic cedar molecules, such as Iso E Super or Cedramber, might be used to enhance this natural note, diffusing it with a modern transparency that allows the wood’s warmth to radiate through the citrus veil.

Together, these three elements — the radiant lemon, the velvety bergamot, and the tranquil cedar — create a scent that feels both effortless and timeless. It evokes a Mediterranean garden at midday: the air alive with the fragrance of ripening citrus, a hint of crushed leaves underfoot, and the gentle hum of sunlit wood in the background. There’s something inherently optimistic in such a composition — a fragrance that captures the simplicity of nature’s brightness, refined by the elegance of human artistry. It is at once vivid and serene, fleeting and memorable, like sunlight fading on stone at the close of a perfect summer day.

Bottle:

It was housed in the Carre flacon (parfum) starting in 1870.

 Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown,  it remained available at least until 1853. 

Shalimar Ode a la Vanille 2010

Shalimar Ode à la Vanille, launched in 2010 as a limited edition flanker of the legendary Shalimar, was Guerlain’s reverent homage to the note that lies at the very heart of its icon: vanilla. The name translates from French as “Shalimar – Ode to Vanilla” (pronounced Sha-lee-mar Ohd ah lah Vah-nee), an elegant phrase that perfectly captures the fragrance’s intent—a poetic tribute to the warm, sensual essence that has defined Guerlain’s most beloved creation since 1925. The word “Ode” evokes imagery of song and praise, and in the world of perfumery, it becomes a lyrical celebration of an ingredient that is both exotic and comforting, mysterious yet familiar.

Created by Thierry Wasser, Guerlain’s in-house perfumer, Ode à la Vanille spotlights two exquisite expressions of vanilla: a tincture from Mayotte, known for its smooth, creamy profile with floral undertones, and vanilla absolute from Madagascar, celebrated for its rich, dark, and slightly smoky sweetness. Vanilla, derived from the cured pods of Vanilla planifolia, is an ingredient of extraordinary depth and versatility. Extraction begins with the meticulous hand-pollination of the orchid flowers—a delicate process developed centuries ago on Réunion and Madagascar—followed by a long curing period where the pods develop their characteristic warmth and complexity. The result is a material containing over 200 aroma compounds, including vanillin, heliotropin, and anisic aldehyde, which together create its creamy, balsamic, and slightly powdery signature. In Ode à la Vanille, synthetic molecules such as ethyl vanillin and coumarin subtly enhance the natural material, intensifying its sweetness and longevity while preserving its lush, natural nuance.

When Shalimar Ode à la Vanille was introduced, the early 2010s marked a renaissance in perfumery—a time when the industry was rediscovering classic materials through modern reinterpretations. Perfume houses were embracing craftsmanship, authenticity, and storytelling, often drawing from their heritage while adapting to a more transparent and natural aesthetic. This was also a period defined by the rise of gourmand and oriental gourmand fragrances—scents that blurred the line between dessert-like comfort and sensual sophistication. Within this context, Guerlain’s Ode à la Vanille stood apart as both a continuation and refinement of its legacy: rather than chasing trend-driven confections, it returned to the source of desire itself—the vanilla bean—and elevated it to new heights of purity and expression.

The imagery surrounding Ode à la Vanille is lush and evocative: one imagines the golden light of dusk over an island plantation, the air rich with the scent of orchids drying under the sun, and the faint trace of incense and amber wafting through silk drapes. The perfume embodies warmth, sensuality, and serenity—a luxurious whisper of the East filtered through French sophistication. To women of the time, Shalimar Ode à la Vanille offered a reconnection to timeless femininity and romance, a way to experience the original Shalimar’s opulence with a new transparency and intimacy.

In scent, the name Ode à la Vanille translates to a symphony of creamy warmth, exotic sweetness, and golden softness—the perfume equivalent of candlelight dancing over satin. While it reflected broader trends in perfumery’s renewed fascination with vanilla and orientals, Guerlain’s execution remained utterly distinctive: refined, expertly balanced, and emotionally resonant. It was less a reinvention than a rediscovery—a love letter to the heart of Shalimar itself, sung softly yet eternally.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Ode à la Vanille is classified as an oriental vanilla fragrance for women, with notes of vanilla from Madagascar and Mayotte that has been infused for 4 years.

• Top notes: bergamot, lemon
• Middle notes: rose, jasmine, iris, exotic spices, incense, opoponax
• Base notes: sandalwood, resins, tonka bean, Madagascan vanilla absolute and Mayotte vanilla tincture

Scent Profile:

Shalimar Ode à la Vanille unfolds like a sensual sonnet—each note carefully chosen to illuminate the soul of its muse, vanilla. Classified as an oriental vanilla fragrance for women, it feels at once familiar and transcendent, shimmering with the luminous citrus of the original Shalimar yet softened by the luxurious warmth of rare vanillas from Madagascar and Mayotte, infused for four years to deepen their intensity. Smelling it is like tracing the contours of a memory—creamy, golden, and radiantly alive.

The opening glows with the sparkle of bergamot and lemon, a pairing that instantly recalls the crisp, effervescent light of dawn over an island sea. The bergamot, likely sourced from Calabria, Italy, offers its characteristic green, floral-citrus brightness—an aromatic burst laced with the natural molecule linalyl acetate, which lends smoothness and polish to its tart zest. Lemon, bright and volatile, introduces a crystalline clarity that awakens the senses, its citral content adding both brilliance and sharpness. These top notes serve as the traditional prelude of Shalimar, creating a refreshing tension that prepares the nose for the luxuriant richness that follows.

As the heart unfolds, rose, jasmine, and iris bloom in exquisite harmony. The rose—likely a blend of Turkish and Bulgarian varieties—is full-bodied and velvety, radiating with natural phenylethyl alcohol and citronellol, which give it a tender, dewy freshness. Jasmine, possibly Egyptian, introduces a narcotic sweetness, its indolic nature lending a faint animalic depth that flirts with sensuality. The iris note adds a silken, powdery facet—its buttery smoothness derived from orris butter, one of the most costly materials in perfumery, where natural irones provide a soft, suede-like texture.

Threaded through this floral trio are exotic spices, incense, and opoponax—a resin also known as “sweet myrrh.” Opoponax, native to Somalia, contributes a balsamic warmth with faint honeyed undertones, its complexity deepened by naturally occurring sesquiterpenes that give body and longevity. Incense smoke curls through the heart, evoking sacred ritual and antique luxury, while the spices—perhaps a touch of clove, cinnamon, or cardamom—introduce an ambered warmth that bridges the transition to the base. Synthetic aroma chemicals like eugenol and vanitrope may subtly enhance this section, providing structure and projection, ensuring that the scent’s richness lingers without overpowering.

The base is where Ode à la Vanille reveals its soul. The two vanillas—Madagascan vanilla absolute and Mayotte vanilla tincture—are the heartbeat of the perfume. The Madagascar variety, sourced from the humid forests of the island’s northeastern coast, is the most prized in the world, rich in vanillin and p-hydroxybenzaldehyde, which create a creamy, sweet, almost leathery depth. By contrast, Mayotte vanilla, grown on “The Perfume Island” of the Indian Ocean, possesses a more floral and airy quality, influenced by its tropical terroir and humid sea breezes. The tincture, aged for years, allows the vanilla’s natural oils to mellow, developing nuances of rum, dried fruit, and smoky resin.

Supporting these lush vanillas are sandalwood, resins, tonka bean, and subtle musky warmth. The Mysore sandalwood, once abundant in India, lends a sacred, milky-woody richness imbued with natural santalol—its creamy smoothness both grounding and sensual. Tonka bean, with its high coumarin content, adds a warm almond-vanilla sweetness that harmonizes perfectly with the vanillas’ narcotic allure. The resins—likely benzoin and labdanum—provide depth and fixative strength, enriching the scent with balsamic, ambered tones. A touch of synthetic musk and amber molecules like Ambroxan may also be present, subtly amplifying the creamy radiance and longevity of the vanilla without dulling its natural vibrancy.

To smell Shalimar Ode à la Vanille is to be transported into a golden haze—where citrus light fades into silken florals, and florals dissolve into molten amber and sun-warmed vanilla. It captures both the spirit of Shalimar’s opulent history and the artistry of modern craftsmanship, blending nature’s most sumptuous materials with refined synthetics that enhance their beauty. The result is not merely a perfume, but a slow, luxurious metamorphosis on the skin—a true ode to vanilla’s eternal allure.

Bottle:

Presented in a 1.7 oz updated Chauve Souris bottle designed by Jade Jagger and originally priced at $110.

Fate of the Fragrance:

This limited edition has since been discontinued.  

Fleurs de Shalimar - Collector Flacons 2009

In a tribute to one of its most beloved ingredients, Guerlain introduced two collector’s editions—Fleurs de Shalimar Eau de Parfum (75 ml) and Eau de Shalimar Fleur Eau de Toilette (75 ml)—each a poetic homage to the vanilla blossom, the tender heart of the legendary Shalimar. Released as limited editions, these exquisite bottles were designed not to alter the classic compositions within, but to celebrate the fleeting beauty of the vanilla flower itself, the source of the ingredient that gives Shalimar its timeless sensuality.

Guerlain described these editions as a love letter to a rare and fragile bloom: “Protective of its own rarity, it only blossoms for a few hours at sunrise.” This moment—when dawn light meets the fragile petals—became the muse for Fleurs de Shalimar. The house sought to capture a second of eternity, immortalizing this delicate transition from flower to fragrance in glass and gold.

The bottles retain Shalimar’s iconic curvaceous silhouette—its voluptuous, fan-like neck and scalloped shoulders—but are transformed through elegant artistic detail. The neck is now adorned with a graceful motif of vanilla blossoms, finely etched and embossed to suggest both delicacy and permanence. On the Eau de Parfum, the blossoms bloom in a deep midnight blue, their cool luminescence contrasting against the warmth of the golden elixir within. For the Eau de Toilette, the motif glows in radiant gold, shimmering softly across the transparent glass, evoking the sunlight that kisses the petals at dawn.

The packaging extends this poetic theme: a refined box embossed with golden blossoms, as if shielding the flower’s mysterious, momentary bloom from view. The gold is symbolic not only of luxury but of the transformation from flower to vanilla pod, from nature to art, from fleeting beauty to eternal perfume.

Though the juice remains unchanged, the design itself becomes an act of storytelling—a meditation on the origins of scent and the craftsmanship that transforms it. By centering the vanilla flower, Guerlain reminds the wearer that even the most sensual and enduring perfumes begin with something ephemeral and pure.

Fleurs de Shalimar thus bridges nature and legend, celebrating a brief morning bloom that inspired one of perfumery’s most enduring romances. It is both a collector’s treasure and a visual poem—a reminder that within every drop of Shalimar lies the delicate, dawn-lit soul of a flower.

L’Heure Bleue Collection 100 ans c2012

To mark the centenary of L’Heure Bleue in 2012, Guerlain unveiled an exquisite limited-edition collector’s set that paid homage to this iconic fragrance. The set featured four 30 ml bottles: a bottle of the classic Parfum alongside three entirely new interpretations crafted by Thierry Wasser, each offering a contemporary vision of L’Heure Bleue. The labels on the three interpretations show clock hands, each one poised at the different times of the day.  These treasures were presented in a sumptuous blue velvet case, meticulously adorned with silver pearl embroidery spelling out the Guerlain name, executed by the legendary Lesage Atelier de Broderie, renowned for its couture craftsmanship.

The original L’Heure Bleue, created by Jacques Guerlain in 1912, drew its inspiration from a quiet walk along the Seine at dusk. He recalled the intensity of the deep blue sky as the sun set over Paris, a moment so poignant that he felt it could only be captured in perfume. True to its origins, the 2012 interpretations maintain the powdery, elegant soul of the original, yet each conveys a distinct expression. The classic top notes of citrus and orange blossom open the fragrance with a fresh, luminous clarity. The heart, composed of iris and heliotrope, imparts soft floral depth, while the base—white musk and powdery undertones—wraps the scent in a comforting, enduring warmth.

Thierry Wasser’s reinterpretations offer a temporal journey through a day:

• L’Aurore (Dawn) captures the first light of morning with an Eau de Toilette that emphasizes the airy, sparkling top notes, creating a sense of freshness and vitality.

• Le Zénith (Zenith), an Eau de Parfum, focuses on the heart notes, bringing the powdery floral richness of L’Heure Bleue into full bloom, evoking the warmth and intensity of midday.

• Le Crépuscule (Dusk), inspired by the Extract, elevates the base notes, revealing the fragrance’s secret, mysterious core as night falls, with a tantalizing, intimate sillage.

While each of the three new creations shares a connection to the original, they explore different facets of the perfume: L’Aurore is light and luminous, Le Zénith is powdery and expansive, and Le Crépuscule is rich and evocative. Together, they form a narrative of the day, allowing the wearer to experience L’Heure Bleue in three complementary moods.

The collaboration with Maison Lesage elevated the collector’s set to a work of art. The atelier’s masterful embroidery transformed the blue velvet case into a tactile and visual masterpiece, with silver faceted beads forming the Guerlain logo, linked delicately with fine chains. The set, featuring four elegantly colored bottles, was offered as a true luxury collector’s item, priced at £3,000, celebrating 100 years of one of Guerlain’s most poetic and enduring creations. Only 140 examples were available worldwide.

L'Heure Bleue Parfum 2012:

L'Heure Bleue Parfum 2012: (This reworked version by Thierry Wasser was added to the Les Parisiennes line in 2013.

• Top notes: linalool, limonene, lemon, citronellol, citral, anise, bergamot, neroli, coriander
• Middle notes: heliotrope, farnesol, carnation, clove, isoeugenol, benzyl cinnamate, cinnamal, hydroxycitronellal, rose, geraniol, violet, alpha-isomethyl ionone, jasmine, ylang ylang, orchid, benzyl benzoate, iris
• Base notes: sandalwood, tonka bean, coumarin, eugenol, benzyl salicylate, benzyl alcohol, benzoin, vanilla, vetiver, musk

Scent Profile:

The opening of L’Heure Bleue Parfum 2012 is a sparkling, intricate tapestry of citrus, spice, and aromatic nuances. Linalool wafts immediately, offering a soft, floral sweetness reminiscent of freshly bloomed flowers, while limonene adds a bright, zesty lift that complements the lively lemon and bergamot, sourced perhaps from Calabria, Italy, prized for its intensely fresh, slightly green, and aromatic character. The bitter-sweet nuances of citronellol and citral contribute a rounded, almost sparkling citrusy-green facet, enhancing the brightness while adding complexity. Exotic touches emerge with neroli, harvested from the blossoms of bitter orange trees, whose delicate, luminous floral aroma is at once heady and airy, and coriander, whose warm, slightly spicy, and herbal facets give the opening an unexpected piquancy. A hint of anise provides a whisper of licorice-like freshness, adding to the top’s playful, luminous energy. Together, these notes create a refined, sparkling introduction—a prelude to the floral heart that follows.

At the heart, the fragrance blossoms into a full, powdery bouquet of flowers and spices. Heliotrope lends a soft, almond-like sweetness, while carnation, clove, and isoeugenol inject a gently spiced warmth. The floral complexity deepens with rose and geraniol, evoking the classic elegance of Guerlain’s signature bouquets, while violet, jasmine, ylang-ylang, orchid, and iris provide a layered, opulent floral richness. Several synthetic aroma chemicals—including farnesol, alpha-isomethyl ionone, hydroxycitronellal, and benzyl cinnamate—work in concert with the natural essences, subtly enhancing facets such as powderiness, brightness, and floral radiance. Benzyl benzoate and cinnamal reinforce the warm, slightly sweet and cinnamon-like spiciness, creating a heart that is simultaneously tender, heady, and profoundly elegant. The result is a floral symphony that is soft yet enduring, full of nuance and refinement, evoking the delicate powdery haze of twilight—the very inspiration of L’Heure Bleue.

The base unfolds with warmth, depth, and sensuality, leaving a lingering trail that is both comforting and intoxicating. Sandalwood provides a creamy, woody richness, while tonka bean and coumarin add a soft, almond-like gourmand undertone, sweetened subtly by vanilla. Benzoin, eugenol, benzyl salicylate, and benzyl alcohol contribute balsamic warmth, gentle spice, and subtle floral echoes from the heart, rounding the composition into a smooth, enveloping finish. Earthy vetiver lends depth and structure, while musks enhance the skin-like softness and lasting presence of the perfume. Together, these base notes anchor the floral and citrus heart with an intimate, almost powdery warmth that recalls a quiet evening in Paris at dusk—the very moment Jacques Guerlain sought to capture over a century ago.

L’Heure Bleue Parfum 2012 is a masterclass in layering: a sparkling, aromatic opening gives way to a heady, powdery floral heart, which gradually settles into a warm, enveloping base. Each ingredient, whether natural or enhanced with subtle synthetics, is meticulously balanced to convey elegance, complexity, and the timeless romanticism that has defined L’Heure Bleue for more than a century.

L'Aurore:

L'Aurore: Eau de Toilette, focuses on sparkling citrus and orange blossom

• Top notes: linalool, limonene, citronellol, geraniol, citral, orange blossom
• Middle notes: heliotrope, farnesol, hydroxycitronellal, alpha-isomethyl ionone, hexyl cinnamal, isoeugenol, eugenol, benzyl alcohol, iris
• Base notes: amyl cinnamate, benzyl salicylate, coumarin, benzyl benzoate, white musk

Scent Profile:

L’Aurore opens with a luminous, sparkling citrus burst, immediately awakening the senses. The linalool introduces a soft floral sweetness that hints at freshly blossomed petals, while limonene provides a bright, effervescent lift that accentuates the crispness of citronellol and citral, creating a radiant, zesty clarity. The citrus notes are further enriched by geraniol, whose rosy, slightly green facets add depth, bridging the transition to the more floral elements. Orange blossom, with its delicate, sun-drenched aroma, imbues the top with a luminous sweetness, evoking the soft glow of early morning light and the gentle warmth of the rising sun. When sourced from southern Mediterranean regions such as Spain or Tunisia, orange blossom possesses a particularly creamy, honeyed nuance that distinguishes it from other varieties, enhancing the freshness while lending elegance and refinement.

In the heart, the fragrance reveals a powdery, soft floral complexity. Heliotrope adds an almond-like, lightly vanilla sweetness, while iris introduces a refined, powdery floral elegance. The heart is enriched with a series of aroma chemicals that enhance and stabilize the natural ingredients: farnesol lends a subtle floral glow, hydroxycitronellal and alpha-isomethyl ionone amplify the powdery, violet-like facets, while hexyl cinnamal, isoeugenol, eugenol, and benzyl alcohol add layers of warmth, spicy nuance, and soft floral resonance. This interplay creates a heart that is airy yet voluptuous, bridging the sparkling brightness of the citrus top with the gentle sweetness and warmth of the base. The result is a floral composition that feels both fresh and comforting, like the soft light of dawn filtering through a dewy garden.

The base unfolds with a smooth, lingering warmth that grounds the fragrance and extends its sillage. Amyl cinnamate adds a soft, creamy sweetness reminiscent of lightly spiced pastries, while benzyl salicylate and benzyl benzoate provide subtle balsamic warmth and gentle floral depth. Coumarin contributes a tender, hay-like sweetness that resonates beautifully with the powdery floral heart, while white musk envelops the composition in a soft, skin-like intimacy, giving it lasting elegance and comfort. Together, these elements create a base that feels cozy yet radiant, emphasizing the early-morning freshness of the top notes while allowing the floral heart to glow gracefully over time.

L’Aurore is, in every sense, a fragrance that evokes the sparkling clarity of dawn. Each ingredient, whether natural or enhanced by aroma chemicals, is meticulously balanced to convey brightness, freshness, and gentle powdery warmth. The result is a fragrance that captures the fleeting beauty of morning light, offering an uplifting yet intimate sensory experience that feels elegant, airy, and luminous.

Le Zenith:

Le Zenith: Eau de Parfum, a warm oriental blending of orange blossom and iris.

• Top notes: linalool, limonene, citronellol, geraniol, citral, orange blossom
• Middle notes: heliotrope, farnesol, hydroxycitronellal, amyl cinnamal, alpha-isomethyl ionone, hexyl cinnamal, isoeugenol, eugenol, benzyl alcohol, iris
• Base notes: benzyl salicylate, coumarin, white musk

Scent Profile:

Le Zénith opens with a luminous, radiant top that immediately awakens the senses. Linalool offers a gentle floral sweetness, soft and inviting, while limonene provides a sparkling, effervescent brightness reminiscent of freshly zested citrus. The delicate citronellol adds a green, slightly rosy nuance, complementing geraniol, which brings a refined, almost dewy rose-like facet. Citral, with its clean lemony sharpness, sharpens the initial lift, creating a bright, airy introduction that feels almost like sunlight filtering through morning mist. At the heart of this brilliance lies orange blossom, traditionally harvested from the sun-soaked groves of southern Spain or Tunisia, prized for its luminous, creamy, and honeyed floral aroma. The essence feels warm yet fresh, its sparkling facets perfectly bridging the initial citrus notes with the floral heart to come.

As the fragrance unfolds, the heart reveals a soft, powdery warmth. Heliotrope lends a tender almond-like sweetness, while iris contributes a velvety, powdery elegance, grounding the florals in a refined, sophisticated texture. The composition is enriched with aroma chemicals that enhance both depth and longevity: farnesol brings a gentle floral glow, hydroxycitronellal emphasizes the powdery, slightly green facets, and amyl cinnamal and hexyl cinnamal introduce a delicate, sweet-spicy nuance reminiscent of lightly sugared petals. Alpha-isomethyl ionone adds a violet-like softness, while isoeugenol, eugenol, and benzyl alcohol provide subtle warmth, spicy floral echoes, and a nuanced richness that makes the heart both creamy and enveloping. The interplay between these ingredients results in a middle that feels plush, radiant, and opulent, balancing the sparkling top with the gentle warmth of the base.

The base of Le Zénith settles into a soft, comforting trail that prolongs the fragrance’s luminous intimacy. Benzyl salicylate contributes a gentle floral balsamic warmth, while coumarin adds a subtle, hay-like sweetness that resonates beautifully with the powdery floral heart. Finally, white musk wraps the composition in a delicate, skin-like softness, lending lasting presence without overwhelming the senses. The base is intimate and elegant, harmonizing perfectly with the radiant top and powdery heart, creating a fragrance that is simultaneously warm, sophisticated, and inviting.

Le Zénith is an expression of mid-day radiance in olfactory form. Each note—natural or synthetically enhanced—is carefully layered to create a luminous, powdery floral experience. The sparkling citrus top conveys energy, the powdery heart provides elegance, and the soft, musky base offers warmth and intimacy. The overall effect is a fragrance that feels like sunlight captured in a bottle: radiant, comforting, and exquisitely refined.

Le Crepuscule:

Le Crepuscule: Extrait de Parfum, emphasises its velvety base notes.

• Top notes: linalool, limonene, citronellol, geraniol, citral, orange blossom
• Middle notes: heliotrope, farnesol, hydroxycitronellal, amyl cinnamal, alpha-isomethyl ionone, hexyl cinnamal, isoeugenol, eugenol, benzyl alcohol, iris
• Base notes: benzyl salicylate, benzyl benzoate, coumarin, white musk

Scent Profile:

Le Crépuscule opens with a delicate interplay of bright, luminous citrus and tender floral nuances. Linalool first reaches the senses with its soft, floral sweetness, evoking freshly cut petals, while limonene delivers a sparkling, almost effervescent clarity that lifts the fragrance like the last rays of a setting sun. Citronellol contributes a subtly green, rosy freshness, and geraniol deepens this with a more pronounced rose-like facet, adding a natural elegance. Citral provides a sharp, sunny lemon note, balancing the richer florals and enhancing the sparkling lift. At the forefront, orange blossom—often sourced from southern Spain or Tunisia—is luminous and creamy, with honeyed undertones and a slightly green nuance that distinguishes it from varieties grown in other regions, creating a vibrant yet soft floral opening that perfectly mirrors the gentle transition from day to dusk.

As the fragrance evolves, the heart reveals a rich, powdery floral complexity. Heliotrope introduces a tender, almond-like sweetness, while iris adds a velvety, powdery depth. Aroma chemicals such as farnesol subtly heighten the floral luminosity, hydroxycitronellal emphasizes freshness with a slightly green, airy sweetness, and amyl cinnamal and hexyl cinnamal lend a lightly spiced, sweet nuance, reminiscent of sugared petals. Alpha-isomethyl ionone reinforces the violet-like powderiness, while isoeugenol, eugenol, and benzyl alcohol provide gentle warmth, spiciness, and depth, giving the heart a luxurious, enveloping character. The result is a plush, radiant middle that bridges the sparkling brightness of the top with the indulgent warmth of the base, reflecting the rich, contemplative mood of twilight.

The base is where Le Crépuscule truly expresses its intimate, velvety nature. Benzyl salicylate brings a subtle floral balsamic warmth, while benzyl benzoate adds smooth, resinous depth. Coumarin contributes a soft, hay-like sweetness, echoing the powdery floral heart, and white musk wraps the fragrance in a gentle, skin-like veil that lingers with understated elegance. This velvety base emphasizes the evening’s calm and warmth, letting the brighter notes from earlier in the composition fade into a comforting, intimate embrace.

Le Crépuscule is a masterful exploration of twilight captured in scent. Each note—natural or enhanced by aroma chemicals—is balanced to evoke a seamless transition from the sparkling light of day to the soft, velvety calm of dusk. The citrus and floral top creates an initial lift, the powdery floral heart conveys richness and refinement, and the warm, musky base leaves a long-lasting, intimate trail. The overall effect is a fragrance that feels contemplative, luxurious, and timeless, perfectly embodying the serene, reflective beauty of the evening.

Idylle Duet Jasmin-Lilas c2012

Idylle Duet Jasmin-Lilas by Guerlain was introduced as a limited edition in 2012, a fragrant celebration of two of the house’s most cherished flowers. The name itself—“Idylle Duet Jasmin-Lilas”—is French and can be pronounced as "ee-dil DOO-ay zha-sman lee-lah". “Idylle” evokes a romantic, poetic vision of love and serenity, suggesting a fleeting, perfect moment. The word “Duet” implies harmony, an intimate partnership, while “Jasmin-Lilas” refers directly to the two central flowers of the composition: jasmine and lilac. Together, the name conjures images of springtime gardens, sun-drenched blossoms, and a soft, enveloping floral embrace. It suggests warmth, elegance, and an intimate, sensuous beauty—an invitation to immerse oneself in the quiet magic of blooming flowers.

The fragrance was launched during a period of luxury perfumery in which artisan-crafted florals and limited editions were increasingly celebrated, particularly among collectors and connoisseurs who sought rare and region-specific ingredients. Women in 2012—attuned to both tradition and innovation—would have been drawn to Idylle Duet Jasmin-Lilas as a perfume that combined the familiar elegance of Guerlain’s house style with a fresh, almost rediscovered floral intensity. The choice of Calabrian jasmine, an exceptionally rare ingredient, lent the fragrance a sense of exclusivity and exploration, appealing to those who valued both olfactory artistry and provenance.

Classified as a floral chypre, the perfume opens with a lush, almost overwhelming abundance of Calabrian jasmine, the Jasminum grandiflorum plants of which had been rediscovered and replanted by Thierry Wasser in southern Italy. These flowers exude not only the classic floral green and honeyed notes of jasmine, but also subtle warm, fruity nuances—aromas enhanced by naturally occurring indole and benzyl acetate, giving the scent its sensual, velvety character. The heart is gently softened by mauve lilac, whose powdery and slightly sweet scent adds a delicate, romantic texture, balancing the intensity of the jasmine and creating an intimate floral duet. Lilac, rich in lilac aldehydes and coumarins, contributes a soft, elegant powderiness, evoking the sensation of sunlight on petals or a gentle spring breeze.

Idylle Duet Jasmin-Lilas sits on a classic chypre floral structure, giving it depth and warmth beneath the fresh florals. It carries a soft, sensual trail—an olfactory signature that feels simultaneously light, airy, and yet intensely feminine. In the context of other 2012 releases, it aligned with the trend of rare and regionally sourced botanicals but stood apart through the deliberate cultivation and revival of the abandoned Calabrian jasmine, offering not only a perfume but a narrative of dedication, rediscovery, and artisanal excellence. Thierry Wasser’s careful orchestration ensured that this fragrance was both modern and timeless, resonating with women who sought beauty, sophistication, and a unique story in every spritz.

From Guerlain:

"A rare alchemy between two flowers plucked from the Idylle bouquet, Idylle Duet Jasmin-Lilas celebrates the revival of the exceptional Calabrian jasmine. For this third edition, Thierry Wasser, Guerlain Perfumer and explorer in search of the most beautiful scents, discovered the very last jasminum grandiflorum plants, forgotten in this region of Italy.  An exceptional partnership with the producer made it possible to give these precious flowers with unique warm and fruity accents a new lease of life." Chypre Floral. Spring-like, intense, sensual.  Idylle Duet Jasmin-Lilas is orchestrated around an overdose of jasmine and mauve lilac. At the heart, Calabrian jasmine stands out with its sensual aromas and subtle fruity accents. Warm and delicate, it blends with the delicious powdery nuances of mauve lilac in a composition steeped in sensuality. Thierry Wasser, Guerlain Perfumer, decided - with the help of one of his producers - to replant jasminum grandiflorum, whose cultivation had been abandoned several years ago, in the sun-drenched soil of Calabria. At the request of Thierry Wasser, and after hard work, hand in hand, they succeeded in giving this exceptional jasmine a new lease of life."

 

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Idylle Duet Jasmin-Lilas is classified as a floral chypre fragrance for women.

• Top notes: bergamot, raspberry, lychee, Bulgarian rose and freesia
• Middle notes: Plessis Robinson rose, Calabrian jasmine grandiflorum, lilac, lily, peony and lily of the valley
• Base notes: musk, ambergris, sandalwood and patchouli

Scent Profile:

Idylle Duet Jasmin-Lilas unfolds as a masterful floral chypre, designed to immerse the senses in a lush, romantic garden. From the very first spritz, the top notes announce themselves with a sparkling burst of bergamot. Sourced from Calabria in southern Italy, this bergamot is celebrated for its bright, citrusy aroma tinged with floral sweetness, underpinned by naturally occurring limonene, linalyl acetate, and linalool. Its effervescence awakens the senses and provides a luminous opening, perfectly complemented by the juicy, velvety sweetness of raspberry and the exotic, slightly floral freshness of lychee. The lychee, often cultivated in subtropical regions, lends a creamy, succulent facet that balances the citrus and softens the initial zing. Interwoven with these fruits is the delicate aroma of Bulgarian rose, rich and opulent, characterized by phenylethyl alcohol, geraniol, and citronellol, providing the scent with its signature rosy warmth, while the airy touch of freesia imparts a fresh, green, floral brightness, lifting the top notes into an ethereal bouquet.

The heart of the fragrance is a symphony of blooms. The Plessis Robinson rose contributes a velvety depth, its petals exuding a powdery, honeyed nuance that enhances the luxurious character of the perfume. At the center is Calabrian jasmine grandiflorum, a rediscovered gem of southern Italy, hand-cultivated under Thierry Wasser’s direction. This jasmine exudes a rich, sensual aroma, with indolic warmth and fruity undertones that feel simultaneously intimate and radiant, making it the unmistakable soul of the composition. Lilac follows with its powdery, almost ethereal sweetness, nuanced with aldehydic lift, giving the impression of morning dew on soft petals. Supporting florals—lily, peony, and lily of the valley—weave in layers of freshness, green nuance, and airy innocence. The lily’s subtle amaryllidaceous facets provide elegance and creamy brightness, while peony adds a gentle rosy-fruity softness. Lily of the valley, with its high content of hydroxycitronellal, offers a light, sparkling green floral tone, evoking gentle springtime breezes. Together, these flowers form a duet of elegance, perfectly balancing richness and lightness.

Finally, the base notes ground the composition in a warm, enveloping sensuality. Musk provides a soft, animalic warmth that clings to the skin, enhancing the florals above with a velvety, intimate aura. Ambergris, rare and precious, introduces a sweet, slightly marine, and resinous nuance, carrying traces of ambrein, which contributes depth and longevity to the fragrance. Sandalwood, with its creamy, milky sweetness, sourced traditionally from Mysore, India, supports the warmth while harmonizing the floral heart with its woody elegance. Patchouli, earthy and rich, adds a subtle bitter undertone and depth, its naturally occurring patchoulol and α-bulnesene providing an enduring, grounding finish. The careful combination of these natural ingredients with selected synthetics ensures a consistent, polished composition that highlights the nuance of each note while amplifying their longevity and sillage.

Idylle Duet Jasmin-Lilas is a true floral chypre, where each element is deliberately sourced and crafted to create a sensuous, layered experience. From the sparkling citrus and fruit top to the voluptuous floral heart and finally the warm, comforting embrace of the base, every ingredient contributes to a perfumed narrative of springtime elegance, sensuality, and timeless sophistication.

Bottle:

Available in 50ml Eau de Parfum.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Idylle Love Blossom traces its origins to 2012, when Guerlain first introduced it as a limited edition under the name Idylle Duet Jasmin-Lilas. The fragrance quickly became celebrated for its luxurious floral chypre composition, yet the initial edition was eventually discontinued, making it a rare collector’s item. In 2014, Guerlain revived the perfume, reimagining it as Idylle Love Blossom, breathing new life into the beloved scent while preserving the olfactory heart that had captivated its first audience.

The relaunch retained the essential character of its predecessor: an exuberant floral bouquet centered on the rediscovered Calabrian jasmine grandiflorum, renowned for its sensual, warm, and subtly fruity nuances. Surrounding this jewel-like jasmine were layers of lilac, Plessis Robinson rose, lily, peony, and lily of the valley, which together created a luminous, springtime freshness. The top notes opened with sparkling citrus and fruit—bergamot, raspberry, lychee, and Bulgarian rose—offering an immediate lift and radiant sweetness. The base notes, grounding the composition, included soft musk, ambergris, creamy sandalwood, and earthy patchouli, providing warmth, depth, and longevity.

By relaunching as Idylle Love Blossom, Guerlain not only revived a rare fragrance but also modernized it for a new generation of perfume enthusiasts. The name evokes romantic imagery and the delicate unfolding of blossoms, resonating with women who sought a floral fragrance that was simultaneously elegant, sensual, and celebratory of springtime beauty. This perfume, in both its original and revived incarnations, embodies Guerlain’s signature artistry: a sophisticated balance between historical floral richness and contemporary refinement.

La Petite Robe Noire Eau Fraiche - Ma Nouvelle Robe Pétales c2015

La Petite Robe Noire Eau Fraiche (Ma Robe Pétales) by Guerlain was introduced in March 2015 as a lighter, more playful flanker to the iconic La Petite Robe Noire fragrance. The launch was celebrated with a high-profile press event at Moscow’s Bolshoi Theatre, underscoring the perfume’s luxurious positioning and its appeal to sophisticated, fashion-conscious audiences. The name, in French, translates literally to “The Little Black Dress Fresh Water (My Petal Dress)” and is pronounced roughly as "la puh-tit rohb nwar oh fresh (ma rob pay-tal)". It evokes images of effortless elegance, flirtatious charm, and feminine grace—a delicate black dress adorned with soft petals, ready for a springtime soirée or an intimate evening out. The fragrance’s very title conveys freshness, movement, and the subtle flirtation of a garden in bloom, aligning perfectly with Guerlain’s tradition of combining sartorial imagery with olfactory artistry.

The mid-2010s, when this perfume debuted, were marked by a trend toward lighter, more wearable floral and green scents, reflecting a broader global fascination with natural freshness and a desire for fragrances that could transition easily from day to evening. Women of the time were increasingly seeking perfumes that were playful yet elegant, modern yet rooted in the heritage of classic perfumery. In this context, La Petite Robe Noire Eau Fraiche (Ma Robe Pétales) appealed to women who appreciated the storytelling and whimsy of Guerlain’s black dress motif but desired a composition that felt airy, luminous, and contemporary.

Created by Guerlain’s in-house master perfumer Thierry Wasser, the fragrance is classified as a green floral, capturing the essence of spring gardens with light, sparkling notes. Its scent composition is both elegant and approachable, balancing floral brightness with green freshness in a way that harmonized with market trends of the period, yet retained Guerlain’s signature sophistication. In comparison to other fragrances available in 2015, it blended the house’s storied heritage with a modern sensibility—light, flirtatious, and effortlessly chic—making it a standout choice for women seeking both refinement and freshness in their daily fragrance wardrobe.

La Petite Robe Noire Eau Fraiche (Ma Robe Pétales) unfolds as a playful and luminous interpretation of Guerlain’s iconic black dress motif, described by the house as the “new Petals Dress.” The fragrance is presented in the instantly recognizable rounded glass bottle, its inverted heart-shaped cap perched like a crown atop the tenderly green lacquered flacon. The sketch of the low-cut petal dress on the bottle is rendered in black ink, creating a visual harmony with the translucent glass that hints at the freshness and lightness contained within. This playful exterior signals the scent’s character: sparkling, merry, and full of the joie de vivre that defines Guerlain’s modern elegance.

On first inhalation, the top notes burst with sparkling mandarin, a citrus that radiates bright, effervescent energy, evoking the sensation of sunlight hitting dewy spring gardens. The initial citrusy zest is enhanced by a delicate rain of green notes, imparting a crisp, almost watery freshness that lifts the spirit. As the heart unfolds, rose petals emerge with a tender floral warmth, interlaced with freesia and apricot, adding a luminous, slightly fruity nuance. These elements evoke the soft caress of spring blooms, their airy, sparkling facets dancing in harmony with subtle solar notes that suggest sun-dappled petals and the gentle warmth of daylight.

The fragrance’s gourmand signature is revealed in the heart’s pistachio, a savory, slightly nutty note that Guerlain has long used as a hallmark of the house style. Its presence adds depth and textural intrigue, balancing the florals with a creamy, subtly gourmand gourmand accent. In the base, white musk and patchouli create a soft, lingering halo, wrapping the wearer in a silky, comforting veil that blends delicacy with sensuality. The musk lends an airy warmth, while patchouli adds understated earthiness, grounding the airy florals in a subtle, elegant complexity.

Thierry Wasser’s composition exemplifies a masterful orchestration of floral and green elements, interwoven with gourmand and woody nuances. The fragrance captures the poetry of spring flowers—vivid, sparkling, and infinitely feminine—while retaining Guerlain’s signature sophistication. It is both fresh and flirtatious, a modern reinterpretation of the “Little Black Dress” motif: essential, glamorous, and irresistibly chic, designed to enchant the senses while celebrating the joyful elegance of the Maison Guerlain.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a green floral fragrance for women.

• Top notes: bergamot, tangerine, mandarin orange, lemon, green notes, orange blossom
• Middle notes: freesia, apricot, almond blossom, Turkish rose, Bulgarian Rose, jasmine Sambac
• Base notes: solar notes, pistachio, almond, tonka bean, patchouli, white musk

Scent Profile:

La Petite Robe Noire Eau Fraîche (Ma Robe Pétales) opens with a radiant burst of bergamot, tangerine, mandarin orange, and lemon, each playing a role in creating a sparkling citrus overture. The bergamot, grown in Calabria, Italy, offers a uniquely bright, slightly floral citrusiness with subtle green nuances, richer and rounder than other bergamot varieties. The tangerine and mandarin orange contribute a soft, sweet tanginess, while the lemon adds a sharp, zesty lift. Interwoven among these citrus notes are green notes, imparting a crisp, freshly cut leaf aroma that evokes early spring meadows, and orange blossom, whose delicate floral sweetness is simultaneously soft, radiant, and almost luminous. The effect is like opening a sun-drenched bouquet of dewy flowers at dawn, both vibrant and effervescent.

In the heart, the fragrance deepens into a symphony of floral and fruity nuances. Freesia contributes a bright, airy freshness with subtly peppery undertones, reminiscent of crisp spring air. Apricot adds a soft, juicy sweetness, balancing the florals with a lightly gourmand touch. Almond blossom brings delicate nutty, powdery facets that are ethereal yet slightly gourmand, creating a subtle creamy undertone. The composition is elevated by Turkish rose and Bulgarian rose, each distinguished by their country of origin: Turkish rose (Rosa damascena) is lush, warm, and intensely floral, with fruity hints, while Bulgarian rose is celebrated for its deep, rich, and honeyed aroma, providing a rounded, velvety body to the floral bouquet. Jasmine Sambac completes the heart with a radiant, almost solar floral note, dense and sweet, yet transparent, adding sensuality and lifting the bouquet with a delicate creaminess.

The base is a soft, enveloping halo that balances the brightness of the opening. Solar notes provide a luminous warmth, evoking the gentle touch of sunlight on petals. Pistachio and almond introduce a tender, creamy nuttiness, subtly gourmand without overwhelming the florals. Tonka bean enhances this gourmand facet further, bringing soft hints of vanilla, spice, and warmth. Patchouli adds earthy depth and structure, balancing the sweetness of the heart and providing a whisper of sophistication. Finally, white musk wraps the composition in a delicate, airy veil, enhancing longevity while keeping the overall effect fresh, soft, and ethereal.

Together, the fragrance unfolds as a celebration of springtime elegance: sparkling, gourmand, and softly floral, with each ingredient carefully selected to contribute to a harmonious and playful green-floral composition. The combination of rare regional ingredients—Calabrian bergamot, Turkish and Bulgarian roses, jasmine Sambac—with gourmand accents and modern green notes ensures a fragrance that is both whimsical and unmistakably Guerlain in its sophistication and artistry.

Bottles:

Available as:

• 30 ml Eau Fraiche
• 50 ml Eau Fraiche
• 100 ml Eau Fraiche
• 250 ml Eau Fraiche in white bee flacon (295,00 €)

Fleurs de Serre c1878

Launched around 1878, Fleurs de Serre by Guerlain takes its name from the French words for “Flowers of the Greenhouse,” pronounced roughly as "flur duh sair". The name evokes images of glass-domed conservatories filled with rare and exotic blooms, where the air is heavy with the intoxicating scent of carefully nurtured flowers. It conjures a sense of refined luxury, private indulgence, and an intimate connection with nature, capturing the romanticized charm of the greenhouse—a symbol of status and taste during the Belle Époque. The title itself suggests a controlled, cultivated elegance: the delicate blooms of the greenhouse, nurtured by human hands, transformed into a fragrance to be worn and admired.

The fragrance emerged during the Belle Époque, a period of optimism, cultural flourish, and technological progress in Europe, particularly France. During this era, the upper classes indulged in horticultural hobbies, cultivating their own personal greenhouses or conservatories to grow exotic plants and flowers that would otherwise not survive in the local climate. These structures were not only practical but a status symbol, reflecting wealth, sophistication, and the mastery of nature. In fashion and perfumery, this translated into a fascination with exotic florals and carefully composed bouquets, where perfumers sought to capture the essence of cultivated luxury in their compositions.

Fleurs de Serre would have been immediately appealing to women of the period, particularly those in the upper echelons of society who were accustomed to the private pleasures of conservatories and floral displays. The scent was interpreted as a lush, elegant floral fragrance, evoking the freshness of morning dew on petals and the rich, layered aroma of greenhouse-kept flowers. Its classification as a floral fragrance allowed it to align with the period’s preference for natural yet cultivated scents, capturing the sophistication and refinement expected of a luxury perfume. In the market of the late 19th century, while floral fragrances were widely popular, Fleurs de Serre stood out for its thematic connection to the exoticism and controlled opulence of greenhouse horticulture, marrying the natural with the cultivated in a way that was both modern and emblematic of the Belle Époque’s indulgent tastes.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Fleurs de Serre would unfold like stepping into a sun-drenched conservatory, where rare and exotic flowers bloom in a carefully orchestrated symphony. The top notes would likely greet you with the bright, dewy freshness of freshly cut petals, mingling with the subtle citrusy brightness of bergamot or orange—if Guerlain included a citrus touch as a lift, common in floral compositions of the period. This initial impression would be airy, luminous, and almost sparkling, like morning sunlight hitting water droplets on delicate blooms.

In the heart of the fragrance, the lush florals would emerge fully. Imagine rich tuberose, ylang-ylang, violet, and jasmine intertwined, each contributing its unique aroma: tuberose with its creamy, slightly animalic sweetness; ylang-ylang with a tropical, custardy warmth; violet with soft powdery violet leaves; and jasmine offering its opulent, indolic depth. These middle notes would evoke the heady, intoxicating atmosphere of a greenhouse filled with exotic blooms, dense but never overwhelming—a cultivated bouquet meant to convey elegance and refinement.

The base would linger like the moist earth and wooden supports of the conservatory itself, grounding the scent with warm, subtle musks, soft orris, and perhaps a hint of sandalwood or amber to add depth and longevity. The overall effect would be a sophisticated, layered floral: simultaneously fresh and powdery, delicate yet luxurious, evoking the intimate pleasure of a private garden filled with extraordinary blossoms. Worn, it would feel like a statement of cultivated taste and understated opulence, a perfume that whispers refinement rather than shouts.

De wereldtentoonstelling van 1878 te Parijs, 1878:

"GUERLAIN DE PARIS 15 rue de la Paix - Highly recommended and vogue articles: Eau de Cologne Impériale, Sapoceti toilet soap, Crême saponin, Ambrosial cream for the beard, Crême de Fraises to soften the skin, Poudre de Cypris for the skin white, the luxurious Crystallized Stilboide for the beard and hair, Eau Athénienne and Eau Lustrale to perfume and wash the head. For the handkerchief: Shore's Caprice, Parfum de France, Fleurs Nouvelles, Pao Rosa, Fleurs de Serre, Bouquet Imperial Russe. For the toilette: Eau de Cédrat and Eau de Chypre."

Journal des demoiselles, 1878:

"After the chill of winter, the fatigue of balls and social gatherings, and the sudden fluctuations of March weather, many young women and girls find their complexions dulled and tired. To restore the natural radiance and freshness of the face, Guerlain offers a range of carefully crafted preparations: Strawberry Cream, which can also be used as a soothing hand cream; Velvet Paste; and La Ferté Balm for the lips. These luxurious products may be used with complete confidence, and those who try them are sure to praise their effectiveness.

Monsieur Guerlain also provides a piece of essential advice: never apply rice powder over a layer of cold cream. Instead, alternate the use of these two cosmetics. The rice powder should be finely milled so that it adheres directly to the skin, applied with a puff, and removed gently by hand when needed.

For those who enjoy perfuming their handkerchiefs, Guerlain recommends the newest fragrances: Fleurs de Serre and Pao-Rosa, the latter offering a slightly more pronounced bouquet. The timeless classics, Perfume of France and Russian Imperial Bouquet, remain ever in fashion, securing their place as enduring favorites of French perfumery."

Bottles:

Presented in the Carre flacon.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown