Bouquet de Jenny Lind c1848

Bouquet de Jenny Lind by Guerlain, launched in 1848, was more than just a perfume — it was an olfactory tribute to one of the most celebrated women of the 19th century. The fragrance took its name from Jenny Lind, the Swedish opera singer affectionately known as “The Swedish Nightingale.” The phrase “Bouquet de Jenny Lind” is French, pronounced "boo-kay deh zhenny land", and literally means “Jenny Lind’s Bouquet.” The name evokes grace, femininity, and refinement — a poetic gesture that suggests both a collection of flowers and a dedication to the woman herself, as though Guerlain had gathered the essence of her voice into fragrance form.

Jenny Lind (1820–1887) was one of the most admired sopranos of her generation, renowned not only for her crystal-clear voice but for her modesty, elegance, and charitable spirit. Her fame transcended borders — she was adored across Europe and, later, America, where her tour organized by showman P.T. Barnum created a sensation. Her presence inspired not just composers and artists but also perfumers, who sought to capture in scent what her music did in sound: purity, warmth, and emotional resonance. In the years surrounding 1847–1848, Lind was at the height of her fame, and perfumers from London to Paris raced to pay homage. The English perfumer Eugène Rimmel was the first to dedicate a fragrance to her in 1847, and Pierre-François-Pascal Guerlain’s Bouquet de Jenny Lind followed soon after — an elegant French counterpart to Rimmel’s tribute.

The late 1840s was a time of immense political and cultural change across Europe — the age of revolutions, of Romantic ideals, and of artistic expression that prized emotion and individuality. In perfumery, the Romantic influence took form in lush floral compositions, where the natural beauty of blossoms was interpreted as symbols of virtue and sentiment. The word bouquet itself was a fashionable naming convention, signaling refinement and femininity; perfumes of this kind were meant to evoke the scent of fresh flowers intertwined with the wearer’s own warmth. A perfume named Bouquet de Jenny Lind would have appealed to the refined woman of the era — one who admired Lind’s purity and grace and wished to embody the same through her toilette.

To imagine Bouquet de Jenny Lind in scent is to imagine a fragrance both innocent and sensuous, built upon the “Jockey Club” style that was fashionable in the mid-19th century — a balanced blend of orange blossom, rose, jasmine, and violet, resting on musk, vetiver, and vanilla. Guerlain’s version was likely richer and more opulent than the English formulas, adding his signature French refinement through a harmony of oriental warmth and floral lightness. The inclusion of vetiver would have lent an earthy, slightly smoky undertone, grounding the florals, while vanilla — a relatively novel material in perfumery at the time — added sweetness and sensuality. Together, they would have evoked the dual nature of Jenny Lind herself: virtuous yet passionate, delicate yet strong.

When women of the 1840s wore a perfume called Bouquet de Jenny Lind, they were not only adorning themselves with fragrance — they were embracing an ideal. The scent symbolized poise, talent, and moral refinement. It would have carried the aura of concert halls, opera boxes, and candlelit soirées — a perfume that transformed admiration into identity.

In the broader landscape of perfumery, Bouquet de Jenny Lind was not entirely unique in its structure — many perfumers of the mid-19th century created floral bouquets dedicated to celebrities, royals, and literary figures. What set Guerlain’s apart was its sophistication and balance. Pierre-François-Pascal Guerlain had already begun to establish his house’s reputation for elegance and technical mastery, blending natural ingredients with early synthetic discoveries to achieve depth and harmony. His Bouquet de Jenny Lind would have stood out for its refinement, perfectly capturing the cultivated grace of its namesake and marking an early example of Guerlain’s talent for translating personality into perfume. 

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like?  Bouquet de Jenny Lind is classified as a floral oriental fragrance for women.

• Top notes: bergamot, neroli, cassie, lavender, rose geranium, coriander
• Middle notes: jasmine, musk, tuberose, violet, rose, orange blossom, heliotrope, cinnamon
• Base notes: vetiver, musk, ambergris, orris, civet, mace, clove, vanilla, Peru balsam, storax, tonka bean

Scent Profile:

To experience Bouquet de Jenny Lind is to open the door to a 19th-century salon—light streaming through lace curtains, the air trembling with melody and perfume. It begins with a radiant top accord of bergamot, neroli, cassie, lavender, rose geranium, and a trace of coriander. The bergamot, likely from Calabria, releases its refined sparkle—green, slightly floral, and faintly bitter—thanks to its high content of linalyl acetate and limonene, natural aroma chemicals that create the classic “Eau de Cologne” brightness so beloved in Guerlain’s early works. The neroli, distilled from Tunisian or Moroccan orange blossoms, introduces a honeyed greenness that bridges citrus and flower, while its linalool and nerolidol lend soft warmth that tempers the bergamot’s bite. 

Cassie, extracted from the fragrant mimosa of Provence, contributes a powdery, almond-tinged richness filled with anisic and violet facets. Lavender, fresh and herbal, contrasts this floral sweetness, grounding the opening with aromatic clarity from its camphoraceous linalool and coumarin traces. Finally, rose geranium and coriander weave a gentle spiciness into the mix—the former rosy-minty from its geraniol content, the latter warm and lemony due to linalool and α-pinene—creating an opening that feels both vivacious and refined, like the first note of an aria.

The heart unfolds in lush, operatic beauty. Jasmine—most likely from Grasse—dominates, its indolic sweetness intertwining with the waxen creaminess of tuberose, whose natural methyl salicylate and benzyl acetate compounds lend narcotic depth. Violet, with its ionone molecules, introduces a cool, powdery tenderness that softens the intensity of the white florals, while rose—perhaps a blend of Turkish and Bulgarian—adds its velvety, lemon-tinged warmth. The orange blossom reiterates the neroli theme, lending a radiant luminosity that keeps the bouquet airborne. Through this, heliotrope lends a gentle gourmand whisper—almond, cherry, and vanilla tones arising from heliotropin (piperonal)—while cinnamon and musk swirl like warm breath, adding both heat and flesh to the floral expanse. The combination is intoxicating: a romantic chorus of flowers balanced by spice, suggesting both innocence and sensuality, the very essence of Jenny Lind’s public persona.

As the perfume settles, the base reveals its 19th-century soul—a tapestry of rare natural resins, animalic warmth, and creamy woods. Vetiver, likely from Réunion or Java, lends an earthy dryness, rich in vetiverol and vetivone, which impart a smoky, slightly bitter undertone. Ambergris, a prized material in Guerlain’s early formulas, introduces its elusive marine sweetness—warm, salty, and radiant—acting as a natural fixative that gives the perfume remarkable longevity. Orris, from the aged rhizomes of Florentine iris, provides a buttery, powdery elegance, its irones imbuing the base with sophistication. A soft animalic pulse of civet and musk (then natural, today re-created synthetically) deepens the texture, their macrocyclic musks contributing a velvety warmth that clings to the skin. Spices—mace and clove—add subtle fire, rich in eugenol, which harmonizes with the balsamic sweetness of Peru balsam, storax, and tonka bean. The latter, rich in coumarin, bridges seamlessly into vanilla, whose vanillin note amplifies the heliotrope’s powdery almond tone.

Smelled in its entirety, Bouquet de Jenny Lind feels like a living memory of the Romantic age: radiant yet soft, filled with light and shadow, purity and passion. Its floral heart—lifted by citrus, warmed by spice, and anchored in the sensuality of woods, musks, and resins—embodies the era’s fascination with the ideal feminine: virtuous, lyrical, and deeply emotive. Even the early synthetics woven into the natural accords—heliotropin, coumarin, vanillin—serve not as replacements but as enhancers, extending the life and reach of the natural materials, just as Jenny Lind’s voice was said to linger long after she had left the stage. Bouquet de Jenny Lind stands as both perfume and portrait, a fragrant homage to a woman whose grace and artistry once captivated the world.

Bottle:

It was housed in the Carre flacon.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Guerlain’s version remained available at least until 1872, though the exact date of discontinuation is unknown.

IPBA 25th Anniversary Bottle 2013

In 2013, to celebrate the 25th anniversary of the International Perfume Bottle Association (IPBA), Guerlain created an exquisite limited-edition Shalimar bee bottle, produced exclusively for the association’s milestone year. Only twenty examples of this commemorative edition were made, each one presented as a gift to select IPBA members. The bottle chosen for this occasion was the iconic Abeille flacon, or bee bottle—a timeless symbol of Guerlain’s heritage that has graced the house’s perfumes since 1853.

For this anniversary creation, Guerlain selected the familiar white bee bottle, an elegant, milk-glass interpretation of the original design. The bottle’s rounded shoulders and embossed bees—emblems of the French Empire—were subtly accented by a gilded necklace adorned with lapis lazuli cabochon pendants, which drape gracefully around the neck. The rich blue of the lapis stones contrasts beautifully with the luminous white surface of the glass and the gleaming gold of the necklace, evoking a sense of refined luxury and regal restraint. Around the bottle’s body, a shiny gold foil label marks the occasion, elegantly inscribed to commemorate the IPBA’s 25 years of success in promoting education, collecting, and camaraderie among perfume bottle enthusiasts around the world.

This 2013 creation is nearly identical to the 2012 collector’s edition “Imperial Bijoux de Shalimar,” which also featured the same bejeweled adornment of lapis cabochons and gilded chainwork. However, the IPBA anniversary edition stands apart as a true rarity, not made available for public purchase. Its exclusivity and limited production of only twenty pieces make it one of the most desirable modern commemorative bottles for collectors of both Guerlain and perfume bottle history.

The International Perfume Bottle Association, founded in 1988, is a nonprofit 501(c)(3) organization dedicated to the appreciation and preservation of perfume bottles and related vanity items across all eras—from ancient vessels to contemporary flacons. The association is guided by an elected Board of Directors, all of whom serve as volunteers, reflecting the passion and community spirit that define the organization. The IPBA’s mission extends beyond collecting: it fosters education, research, and fellowship, serving as a resource for identification, historical context, and manufacturing details of perfume bottles and vanity items.

Its members—collectors and dealers from across the United States and abroad—represent a wide range of interests within this diverse field. Their collections may include Victorian scent bottles, Art Nouveau and Art Deco atomizers, Czech glass, American and French commercial bottles, miniatures, art glass creations, and whimsical novelty designs. Many members also collect related vanity items such as powder compacts, lipstick cases, purses, and dresser accessories, recognizing the broader artistry of the toilette table.

The IPBA’s 25th Anniversary Shalimar bottle thus stands as a fitting tribute—not only to Guerlain’s enduring artistry and the timeless elegance of the bee bottle but also to the dedication of a community that celebrates the cultural and historical legacy of perfume bottles. A shimmering synthesis of heritage and craftsmanship, this limited edition symbolizes the union of perfume as art and collecting as devotion, echoing the spirit of the IPBA’s founders and the passion of collectors worldwide.

To learn more about the IPBA, please click HERE for more information.

 

 

Imperial Bijoux de Shalimar Flacon 2012

To commemorate the 160th anniversary of Le Bon Marché Rive Gauche, Guerlain unveiled a limited edition of its legendary fragrance Shalimar, titled “The Imperial Bijoux de Shalimar.” This exclusive edition, released in 2012, is an ode to opulence and craftsmanship—honoring both Guerlain’s history and the enduring prestige of one of Paris’s most iconic department stores.

For this creation, Shalimar Eau de Parfum was presented in a 250 ml white bee bottle, the Abeille flacon, whose origins date back to 1853 when Guerlain crafted it for Empress Eugénie. The milky translucence of the glass softens the bottle’s imperial form, giving it a sense of ethereal luxury. Its decoration—a brass necklace designed by Parisian jewelry artist Sylvia Toledano—transforms the flacon into an object of wearable art. The necklace drapes gracefully around the neck of the bottle, recalling the ornate jewelry of Indian princesses, a fitting tribute to Shalimar’s inspiration in the romance of Emperor Shah Jahan and Mumtaz Mahal, for whom the Taj Mahal was built. 

The necklace features two lapis lazuli cabochon pendants, their deep cobalt hue flecked with subtle veins of gold. Lapis lazuli, prized since antiquity, was once ground into ultramarine pigment for Renaissance art and is still valued for its luminous, celestial color. The finest stones are found in Afghanistan and northern India, regions that have supplied lapis to royalty and artisans for millennia. In this perfume’s context, lapis lazuli’s rich blue evokes mystery, nobility, and divine protection, while the gold inclusions mirror the gilded accents of the bottle and the opulence of the Shalimar story itself.

The Imperial Bijoux de Shalimar edition retailed for €450, making it a true collector’s piece—one that unites fragrance, fine art, and craftsmanship in a single creation. Its luxurious presentation and Indian-inspired embellishments echo the sensuality and splendor that Shalimar has symbolized since its debut in 1925.

 

As for Le Bon Marché Rive Gauche, it holds a special place in French cultural history. Founded in 1852, it is recognized as the world’s first modern department store, located on the Left Bank (Rive Gauche) of the Seine in Paris. Conceived by Aristide and Marguerite Boucicaut, it revolutionized retail with its fixed prices, mail-order catalogues, and elegant, artful displays—creating a new shopping experience for the bourgeoisie of the Second Empire. Over the decades, it became synonymous with Parisian sophistication and innovation, nurturing collaborations with designers, artists, and luxury brands.

By choosing Le Bon Marché as the venue for this exclusive edition, Guerlain celebrated not just its own heritage but that of Parisian luxury culture itself—a meeting point of perfume artistry, craftsmanship, and refined commerce. “The Imperial Bijoux de Shalimar” thus stands as both a tribute to Guerlain’s royal legacy and a shimmering emblem of French elegance at its finest.

Aqua Allegoria Teazzurra 2015

Aqua Allegoria Teazzurra by Guerlain, launched in 2015, is a serene and refreshing creation that captures the tranquil essence of blue waters and sunlit horizons. Released as a limited travel retail exclusive, this edition was available only at select duty-free shops, making it a rare find for travelers seeking an olfactory souvenir that evokes calm, sophistication, and the spirit of escape.

The name “Teazzurra” is both poetic and precise—a fusion of “tea” and the Italian word “azzurra,” meaning “azure” or “sky blue.” Pronounced tay-ah-ZOOR-rah, it rolls off the tongue with a Mediterranean softness, conjuring images of turquoise seas, cool breezes, and sunlit terraces overlooking an endless horizon. Guerlain’s choice of name beautifully mirrors the composition’s character: airy yet grounded, luminous yet comforting. The fragrance itself continues this visual harmony with a pale aqua-blue tint, suggesting the crystalline purity of coastal waters. The name also nods to “Terra Azzurra,” Guerlain’s 2012 makeup collection created in collaboration with Emilio Pucci, whose Mediterranean-inspired prints celebrated the same carefree elegance.

When Teazzurra debuted in 2015, perfumery was in a period defined by transparency, freshness, and nature-inspired compositions. After years of gourmand excess and oud-heavy blends dominating the early 2010s, there was a notable shift toward light, unisex scents—fragrances that felt effortless, pure, and attuned to wellness and travel. The Aqua Allegoria collection, Guerlain’s line devoted to nature’s fleeting moments, was perfectly positioned within this movement. Teazzurra reflected the growing appeal of aromatic aquatics that balanced comfort with clarity—a modern luxury aligned with minimalism and self-care.

For the modern traveler of 2015, a fragrance like Teazzurra would have symbolized escape and renewal. Women and men alike were drawn to scents that suggested wellness and freedom rather than sensual opulence. “Teazzurra” could easily have evoked memories of sipping iced green tea on a sun-drenched terrace, the air filled with the scent of salt spray and citrus. It appealed to those seeking sophistication without excess—luxury that whispers rather than shouts.

The interpretation of “Teazzurra” in scent is as fluid as its name. The fragrance opens with a burst of luminous citrus—zesty and cooling—before melting into the soft herbal nuances of Japanese green tea and mate absolute. The green tea note, with its gentle tannic freshness, imparts a calming purity, while mate adds a slightly earthy warmth that grounds the composition. Subtle accents of violet and jasmine lend a petal-like delicacy, softening the blend without tipping it into overt floral sweetness. The base—musk and vanilla—wraps everything in a gauzy, sun-warmed veil, echoing the quiet sensuality of skin kissed by sea air.

In the context of its era, Teazzurra harmonized perfectly with contemporary tastes rather than breaking from them. Yet within the crowded field of fresh aquatics, its refinement distinguished it. Thierry Wasser’s touch brought a distinctly Guerlain elegance—that effortless balance between natural freshness and refined sensuality. Where others aimed for clean minimalism, Teazzurra offered a poetic transparency, a reminder that simplicity can still be deeply luxurious.

Ultimately, Aqua Allegoria Teazzurra embodies the serenity of azure waters, the comfort of soft linen, and the quiet sophistication of modern travel—a fragrance that feels as timeless as the sea itself.

Guerlain:

"Revive yourself with a green tea as the azure waters lap gently in the breeze." 

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Aqua Allegoria Teazzurra is classified as a light, aquatic aromatic fragrance for men and women.

• Top notes: bergamot, chamomile, mate absolute and lemon
• Middle notes: jasmine, violet, Japanese green tea accord
• Base notes: Calone (aquatic notes), musk, vanilla

Scent Profile:

To smell Aqua Allegoria Teazzurra by Guerlain is to experience the serene poetry of water and sunlight translated into scent. Created by Thierry Wasser, this light, aquatic aromatic fragrance unfolds with a sense of quiet luxury—each note revealing itself like ripples across a still lagoon. Every ingredient plays a precise role in painting this blue-toned olfactory landscape, combining natural materials and modern synthetics in a dance between freshness and warmth.

The first impression is a dazzling, sunlit burst of bergamot and lemon—two of Guerlain’s most beloved ingredients and hallmarks of its house style. The bergamot, sourced from Calabria in southern Italy, offers far more nuance than an ordinary citrus. Its essential oil, rich in linalyl acetate and limonene, gives not only a sparkling brightness but also a smooth, aromatic warmth that recalls the sensation of sunlight filtering through leaves. Paired with the crisp sharpness of lemon, the opening is like inhaling the air beside a Mediterranean cliff, clean and invigorating yet softened by the sea breeze.

Almost immediately, the citrus veil begins to drift into the gentle herbal tones of chamomile and mate absolute. The chamomile used here—often Roman chamomile—adds a honeyed, apple-like sweetness threaded with hay and straw undertones. Its comforting warmth bridges the transition from citrus to the green heart. The mate absolute, extracted from the leaves of the yerba mate plant native to South America, introduces an earthy, smoky greenness that feels grounding and restorative. Its natural compounds, particularly theobromine and pyrazines, lend a soft bitterness reminiscent of green tea and roasted herbs. Together, they create the illusion of sipping freshly brewed tea outdoors, the steam mingling with salt air and sunshine.

At the heart, jasmine and violet unfold in whispering harmony. The jasmine, likely a delicate sambac variety, carries a humid, watery quality rather than an indolic intensity. It lends the fragrance its floral breath—a suggestion of petals dampened with dew. The violet, enriched with ionones (aroma chemicals that smell of crushed violet petals and soft wood), imparts a powdery coolness that softens the edges of the composition. Hovering above these florals is the Japanese green tea accord, a constructed blend of natural extracts and synthetics. It captures the crisp clarity of freshly steeped sencha—grassy, faintly marine, and meditative. This accord is where Guerlain’s craftsmanship truly shines: the natural vegetal tones of mate and chamomile are amplified by synthetic ozonic molecules, creating a luminous “blue air” effect that feels impossibly pure.

As Teazzurra settles, the aquatic notes of Calone begin to shimmer through—a signature molecule in modern perfumery known for its ability to evoke sea breeze, melon, and mist. In lesser hands, Calone can be overpowering, but here it’s used with restraint, blending seamlessly into the natural watery notes. It enhances the “azure” character of the perfume, giving the sensation of cool, translucent depth. Beneath it lies the soft radiance of white musk, smooth and cottony, which provides lasting diffusion without heaviness. Finally, a gentle vanilla base—creamy, slightly sweet, and comforting—emerges like sunlight warming the skin. It balances the marine freshness, preventing the composition from feeling too cold or austere.

In its entirety, Aqua Allegoria Teazzurra feels like a meditation in scent: a moment suspended between land, sea, and sky. The interplay of Italian citrus, South American mate, Japanese tea, and modern aquatic notes tells a story of global freshness—a world of calm, refined wanderlust captured in a bottle. Each note is both distinct and seamlessly woven, a study in contrasts: natural and synthetic, warm and cool, ethereal and grounded. To smell it is to be transported—to a coastal morning where the air is blue, the sea is still, and serenity lingers on the breeze.

Bottles:

Housed inside of the modified bee bottle typical of the Aqua Allegoria line.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued in 2016.

Shalimar - Edition Charms Collector Bottle 2010

In 2010, Guerlain unveiled two exquisite collector’s editions—Shalimar Édition Charms Eau de Parfum and Eau de Shalimar Édition Charms Eau de Toilette, both housed in 75 ml flacons. Though each contained the classic, familiar compositions of Shalimar and Eau de Shalimar, the true artistry of these limited editions lay in their bottles—an ode to opulence, sensuality, and the timeless mystique of India that first inspired Jacques Guerlain’s 1925 masterpiece.

The Édition Charms flacon transforms the iconic Shalimar bottle into a jewel-like treasure. Its surface is delicately adorned with slender arabesques—graceful, swirling motifs that unfurl across the glass and packaging like henna designs on skin. These ornate patterns are directly inspired by the rings and jewelry worn by Indian women, as well as the intricate embroidery found on traditional ceremonial saris, whose shimmering threads capture light with every movement. The design evokes a world of exotic splendor, where fragrance, fabric, and adornment merge into a shared language of beauty and celebration.

Around the neck of the bottle, a blue silk thread is carefully wound—an elegant gesture that introduces a touch of texture and ritual. From it dangles Guerlain’s signature golden medallion, engraved with the iconic interlocking “G” emblem—a gleaming seal of heritage and authenticity. The contrast between the rich blue thread and the radiant gold charm conjures the image of royal Indian jewelry—precious, symbolic, and steeped in artistry.

The presentation box continues the theme, echoing the same arabesque flourishes and Oriental motifs in refined detail. The interplay of matte and metallic finishes creates the illusion of movement, like the reflection of light on silk. Every element, from the gilded scrollwork to the tactile thread around the bottle’s neck, speaks of sensual craftsmanship and Guerlain’s enduring fascination with Eastern luxury.

The Édition Charms bottles invite the wearer to experience not just the perfume, but the romantic dream of Shalimar itself—the fantasy of jeweled palaces, moonlit gardens, and eternal love. The collection captures Guerlain’s genius for storytelling through design: perfume as ornament, bottle as talisman. It is an homage both to the splendour of India and to the heritage of Guerlain, where the line between art, fragrance, and emotion has always been beautifully, deliberately blurred.

Cedrat c1838

Launched around 1838, Cédrat—pronounced “say-drah”—was one of Pierre-François Pascal Guerlain’s earliest creations, a fragrance inspired by the radiant freshness of the citron fruit. The name itself is the French word for “citron,” a large, thick-skinned citrus fruit native to the Mediterranean. To the 19th-century ear, “Cédrat” evoked both the brightness of southern sunlight and the refinement of classical luxury, conjuring images of orchards along the Amalfi Coast or the terraced groves of Corsica, where the air is filled with the mingled perfume of citrus blossoms and sea breeze.

The citron (Citrus medica) was among the first citrus fruits known in Europe, prized since antiquity for its aromatic rind rather than its bitter pulp. In perfumery, its essential oil—cold-pressed from the peel—is treasured for its sparkling, dry, and slightly resinous character. Unlike the sweeter bergamot or orange, citron’s scent has a more austere, lemony sharpness tinged with green woods and faint spice. This complex freshness comes from natural molecules such as limonene, citral, and β-pinene, which lend brightness and clarity, while a trace of linalool adds floral lift. Guerlain’s Cédrat would have distilled these characteristics into a refined essence that felt simultaneously invigorating and elegant—ideal for the tastes of the mid-19th century, when “eaux de toilette” and “eaux de cologne” were fashionable luxuries among the European elite.

Citron’s symbolism in the Victorian language of flowers was tied to purity, cheerfulness, and freshness of spirit—a fitting association for a fragrance that seemed to bottle sunlight itself. In a society that valued refinement and restraint, Cédrat offered women a scent of sophistication that was both bright and decorous. It suggested vitality without sensual excess, making it suitable for daily wear during a time when heavier perfumes were often reserved for evening or court occasions.

The late 1830s, when Cédrat was introduced, marked the dawn of the Romantic period in both art and society. It was an age of fascination with nature, travel, and the exotic—a world of poets, botanists, and explorers. In fashion, women wore delicate muslin gowns and pastel silks; their toilette tables displayed crystal bottles filled with floral waters and citrus essences imported from Italy or the South of France. Guerlain’s shop, newly established on the Rue de Rivoli in Paris, catered to this refined clientele, offering perfumes that embodied lightness, grace, and modernity.

A fragrance named Cédrat would have been instantly appealing to women of this era. It evoked the romance of distant lands—the sun-warmed citrus groves of the Mediterranean, the soft rustle of lace parasols in seaside villas, and the optimism of a new century. Its scent would be interpreted as the essence of clarity and cleanliness, a luminous veil of freshness that reflected both good taste and cultivated sensibility.

While many perfumers of the 19th century produced their own “Cédrat” waters or essences, Guerlain’s interpretation likely stood out for its refinement and complexity. Pierre-François Pascal Guerlain had an unrivaled gift for balance; even his simplest citrus compositions displayed an elegance that set them apart. His Cédrat would not have been a mere “toilet water,” but rather a delicate orchestration of citrus, floral, and subtle balsamic undertones—transforming the straightforward brightness of citron into something enduring and elegant.

In the broader context of its time, Cédrat aligned with the prevailing trends for clean, naturalistic scents—descendants of the 18th-century eaux de cologne tradition—but it also hinted at Guerlain’s emerging sophistication. It prefigured the perfumer’s later genius for layering brightness with warmth, simplicity with depth. In Cédrat, we can already sense the beginnings of that distinctly Guerlain touch: a radiant freshness softened by refinement, a harmony of sunlight and silk.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Originally a vibrant, fresh composition, this fragrance captures the sparkling essence of citrus blossoms blended with aromatic undertones, evoking the bright, breezy elegance of a Mediterranean garden. Classified as a citrus aromatic fragrance for women.

• Top notes: lemon and bergamot
• Middle notes:
• Base notes: cedar

Scent Profile:

Imagine opening the flacon and being met instantly with a burst of sunlight — that first inhalation of lemon is dazzling, bright, and crystalline, like rays of light caught in glass. Italian lemons, particularly those from Sicily or the Amalfi Coast, are prized for their high content of limonene, the molecule responsible for their effervescent, sparkling top note. But within that brightness lies complexity: traces of citral give the lemon a tart, almost green sharpness, while linalool and β-pinene add a touch of floral and piney smoothness. The effect is pure exhilaration — a crisp morning breeze, freshly peeled rind, and the sensation of cool water over warm skin. In perfumery, lemon oil provides that instant lift, the opening brilliance that awakens the senses before it mellows into warmth.

Then, as the lemon’s sparkle softens, bergamot unfurls — gentler, rounder, and more refined. The bergamot, sourced from Calabria in southern Italy, has long been considered the finest in the world. Its delicate aroma is a marriage of citrus and blossom, both tart and lightly floral, thanks to its complex chemical composition: linalyl acetate imparts a smooth, almost pear-like sweetness; linalool adds a gentle petal-like freshness; and a whisper of bergapten gives depth and subtle warmth. Together, they form an elegant bridge between the citrus zest of the top and the aromatic heart below. While modern perfumers often enhance bergamot’s brightness with synthetics such as citronellal or hedione, these additions serve to extend the natural radiance of the oil, ensuring that the fragrance glows on the skin longer than nature alone could sustain.

As the initial effervescence subsides, the scent begins to settle into its tranquil base of cedar. The cedarwood — most likely from the Atlas Mountains of Morocco or the forests of Virginia — offers a serene counterpoint to the citrus sparkle above. Its dry, resinous character brings structure and calm, grounding the composition with notes of clean wood, faint pencil shavings, and sun-warmed bark. Naturally rich in cedrol and thujopsene, cedar imparts a smooth, almost creamy woodiness that lingers delicately, never heavy. Synthetic cedar molecules, such as Iso E Super or Cedramber, might be used to enhance this natural note, diffusing it with a modern transparency that allows the wood’s warmth to radiate through the citrus veil.

Together, these three elements — the radiant lemon, the velvety bergamot, and the tranquil cedar — create a scent that feels both effortless and timeless. It evokes a Mediterranean garden at midday: the air alive with the fragrance of ripening citrus, a hint of crushed leaves underfoot, and the gentle hum of sunlit wood in the background. There’s something inherently optimistic in such a composition — a fragrance that captures the simplicity of nature’s brightness, refined by the elegance of human artistry. It is at once vivid and serene, fleeting and memorable, like sunlight fading on stone at the close of a perfect summer day.

Bottle:

It was housed in the Carre flacon (parfum) starting in 1870.

 Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown,  it remained available at least until 1853. 

Shalimar Ode a la Vanille 2010

Shalimar Ode à la Vanille, launched in 2010 as a limited edition flanker of the legendary Shalimar, was Guerlain’s reverent homage to the note that lies at the very heart of its icon: vanilla. The name translates from French as “Shalimar – Ode to Vanilla” (pronounced Sha-lee-mar Ohd ah lah Vah-nee), an elegant phrase that perfectly captures the fragrance’s intent—a poetic tribute to the warm, sensual essence that has defined Guerlain’s most beloved creation since 1925. The word “Ode” evokes imagery of song and praise, and in the world of perfumery, it becomes a lyrical celebration of an ingredient that is both exotic and comforting, mysterious yet familiar.

Created by Thierry Wasser, Guerlain’s in-house perfumer, Ode à la Vanille spotlights two exquisite expressions of vanilla: a tincture from Mayotte, known for its smooth, creamy profile with floral undertones, and vanilla absolute from Madagascar, celebrated for its rich, dark, and slightly smoky sweetness. Vanilla, derived from the cured pods of Vanilla planifolia, is an ingredient of extraordinary depth and versatility. Extraction begins with the meticulous hand-pollination of the orchid flowers—a delicate process developed centuries ago on Réunion and Madagascar—followed by a long curing period where the pods develop their characteristic warmth and complexity. The result is a material containing over 200 aroma compounds, including vanillin, heliotropin, and anisic aldehyde, which together create its creamy, balsamic, and slightly powdery signature. In Ode à la Vanille, synthetic molecules such as ethyl vanillin and coumarin subtly enhance the natural material, intensifying its sweetness and longevity while preserving its lush, natural nuance.

When Shalimar Ode à la Vanille was introduced, the early 2010s marked a renaissance in perfumery—a time when the industry was rediscovering classic materials through modern reinterpretations. Perfume houses were embracing craftsmanship, authenticity, and storytelling, often drawing from their heritage while adapting to a more transparent and natural aesthetic. This was also a period defined by the rise of gourmand and oriental gourmand fragrances—scents that blurred the line between dessert-like comfort and sensual sophistication. Within this context, Guerlain’s Ode à la Vanille stood apart as both a continuation and refinement of its legacy: rather than chasing trend-driven confections, it returned to the source of desire itself—the vanilla bean—and elevated it to new heights of purity and expression.

The imagery surrounding Ode à la Vanille is lush and evocative: one imagines the golden light of dusk over an island plantation, the air rich with the scent of orchids drying under the sun, and the faint trace of incense and amber wafting through silk drapes. The perfume embodies warmth, sensuality, and serenity—a luxurious whisper of the East filtered through French sophistication. To women of the time, Shalimar Ode à la Vanille offered a reconnection to timeless femininity and romance, a way to experience the original Shalimar’s opulence with a new transparency and intimacy.

In scent, the name Ode à la Vanille translates to a symphony of creamy warmth, exotic sweetness, and golden softness—the perfume equivalent of candlelight dancing over satin. While it reflected broader trends in perfumery’s renewed fascination with vanilla and orientals, Guerlain’s execution remained utterly distinctive: refined, expertly balanced, and emotionally resonant. It was less a reinvention than a rediscovery—a love letter to the heart of Shalimar itself, sung softly yet eternally.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Ode à la Vanille is classified as an oriental vanilla fragrance for women, with notes of vanilla from Madagascar and Mayotte that has been infused for 4 years.

• Top notes: bergamot, lemon
• Middle notes: rose, jasmine, iris, exotic spices, incense, opoponax
• Base notes: sandalwood, resins, tonka bean, Madagascan vanilla absolute and Mayotte vanilla tincture

Scent Profile:

Shalimar Ode à la Vanille unfolds like a sensual sonnet—each note carefully chosen to illuminate the soul of its muse, vanilla. Classified as an oriental vanilla fragrance for women, it feels at once familiar and transcendent, shimmering with the luminous citrus of the original Shalimar yet softened by the luxurious warmth of rare vanillas from Madagascar and Mayotte, infused for four years to deepen their intensity. Smelling it is like tracing the contours of a memory—creamy, golden, and radiantly alive.

The opening glows with the sparkle of bergamot and lemon, a pairing that instantly recalls the crisp, effervescent light of dawn over an island sea. The bergamot, likely sourced from Calabria, Italy, offers its characteristic green, floral-citrus brightness—an aromatic burst laced with the natural molecule linalyl acetate, which lends smoothness and polish to its tart zest. Lemon, bright and volatile, introduces a crystalline clarity that awakens the senses, its citral content adding both brilliance and sharpness. These top notes serve as the traditional prelude of Shalimar, creating a refreshing tension that prepares the nose for the luxuriant richness that follows.

As the heart unfolds, rose, jasmine, and iris bloom in exquisite harmony. The rose—likely a blend of Turkish and Bulgarian varieties—is full-bodied and velvety, radiating with natural phenylethyl alcohol and citronellol, which give it a tender, dewy freshness. Jasmine, possibly Egyptian, introduces a narcotic sweetness, its indolic nature lending a faint animalic depth that flirts with sensuality. The iris note adds a silken, powdery facet—its buttery smoothness derived from orris butter, one of the most costly materials in perfumery, where natural irones provide a soft, suede-like texture.

Threaded through this floral trio are exotic spices, incense, and opoponax—a resin also known as “sweet myrrh.” Opoponax, native to Somalia, contributes a balsamic warmth with faint honeyed undertones, its complexity deepened by naturally occurring sesquiterpenes that give body and longevity. Incense smoke curls through the heart, evoking sacred ritual and antique luxury, while the spices—perhaps a touch of clove, cinnamon, or cardamom—introduce an ambered warmth that bridges the transition to the base. Synthetic aroma chemicals like eugenol and vanitrope may subtly enhance this section, providing structure and projection, ensuring that the scent’s richness lingers without overpowering.

The base is where Ode à la Vanille reveals its soul. The two vanillas—Madagascan vanilla absolute and Mayotte vanilla tincture—are the heartbeat of the perfume. The Madagascar variety, sourced from the humid forests of the island’s northeastern coast, is the most prized in the world, rich in vanillin and p-hydroxybenzaldehyde, which create a creamy, sweet, almost leathery depth. By contrast, Mayotte vanilla, grown on “The Perfume Island” of the Indian Ocean, possesses a more floral and airy quality, influenced by its tropical terroir and humid sea breezes. The tincture, aged for years, allows the vanilla’s natural oils to mellow, developing nuances of rum, dried fruit, and smoky resin.

Supporting these lush vanillas are sandalwood, resins, tonka bean, and subtle musky warmth. The Mysore sandalwood, once abundant in India, lends a sacred, milky-woody richness imbued with natural santalol—its creamy smoothness both grounding and sensual. Tonka bean, with its high coumarin content, adds a warm almond-vanilla sweetness that harmonizes perfectly with the vanillas’ narcotic allure. The resins—likely benzoin and labdanum—provide depth and fixative strength, enriching the scent with balsamic, ambered tones. A touch of synthetic musk and amber molecules like Ambroxan may also be present, subtly amplifying the creamy radiance and longevity of the vanilla without dulling its natural vibrancy.

To smell Shalimar Ode à la Vanille is to be transported into a golden haze—where citrus light fades into silken florals, and florals dissolve into molten amber and sun-warmed vanilla. It captures both the spirit of Shalimar’s opulent history and the artistry of modern craftsmanship, blending nature’s most sumptuous materials with refined synthetics that enhance their beauty. The result is not merely a perfume, but a slow, luxurious metamorphosis on the skin—a true ode to vanilla’s eternal allure.

Bottle:

Presented in a 1.7 oz updated Chauve Souris bottle designed by Jade Jagger and originally priced at $110.

Fate of the Fragrance:

This limited edition has since been discontinued.