Carmen Le Bolshoi 2015

Carmen Le Bolshoï by Guerlain was introduced in October 2015 as a limited-edition fragrance created by perfumer Thierry Wasser to honor the legendary Bolshoi Theatre in Moscow. This exclusive release marked two significant anniversaries: the 240th year of the Bolshoi Theatre and the 140th anniversary of Georges Bizet’s opera Carmen. In keeping with Guerlain’s tradition of artistic collaborations, the perfume was conceived as a fragrant homage to the opera’s enduring power—its passion, danger, and irresistible allure.

The fragrance itself is classified as a woody floral musk and serves as a reissue of Guerlain’s Vétiver Pour Elle, a scent known for its refined balance of floral brightness and woody depth. Carmen Le Bolshoï retains that same sophistication, combining radiant citrus and delicate floral notes with the sensual grounding of vetiver, musk, and soft woods. The composition evokes both strength and seduction—the dual nature of Carmen herself—blending freshness with warmth to create a perfume that feels both timeless and dramatic.

The perfume draws its inspiration from Bizet’s Carmen, one of opera’s most electrifying works. Set in Seville, Spain, the story follows Carmen, a fiery and free-spirited gypsy who works in a cigarette factory. Her beauty and defiant independence captivate Don José, a naïve soldier who abandons his duty and his former life to pursue her. Carmen, however, lives by her own rules—unwilling to be possessed or tamed. When her affections shift to Escamillo, a confident bullfighter, Don José’s passion turns to jealousy and obsession. The opera ends tragically when, outside the bullring, Carmen refuses to return to Don José, and in a fit of desperation, he kills her.

Much like its operatic namesake, Carmen Le Bolshoï embodies contrasts—love and danger, freedom and fate. Through its elegant reinterpretation of Vétiver Pour Elle, Guerlain captures the essence of Carmen’s spirit: passionate, untamed, and unforgettable.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Carmen Le Bolshoi is classified as a woody floral musk fragrance for women. It is a reissue of the fragrance Vetiver Pour Elle.

• Top notes: orange, orange blossom, pink pepper and bergamot
• Middle notes: jasmine, honeysuckle, nutmeg and lily-of-the-valley
• Base notes: cedar, white musk, tonka bean and vetiver

Scent Profile:

Carmen Le Bolshoï by Guerlain is a fragrant portrait of passion and poise—an olfactory opera composed in movements that rise and fall with emotion. Classified as a woody floral musk, it is a reimagining of Vétiver Pour Elle, yet it carries a deeper sensuality, a quiet theatricality befitting its dedication to the Bolshoi Theatre and to Bizet’s tempestuous heroine. Each note reveals itself with deliberate grace, building layer upon layer like an orchestral overture, from the bright curtain rise of citrus and spice to the lingering velvet of musk and vetiver in the final act.

The fragrance opens with a radiant burst of orange and bergamot, a duet of sunlit fruits that sparkle like the overture’s first triumphant chords. The sweet juiciness of Mediterranean orange—likely from Italy or Spain—brings a golden warmth, full of limonene and citral, molecules responsible for its luminous, almost effervescent freshness. Bergamot, traditionally harvested in Calabria, contributes a complex and refined brightness; its natural balance of linalyl acetate and linalool provides a slightly floral, green nuance that rounds out the citrus edges. 

Orange blossom, distilled from the flowers of Tunisian or Moroccan bitter orange trees, introduces an immediate sensuality—its heart rich in nerol and indole, which give the fragrance its tender yet animalic undertone. These natural materials are lifted and lengthened by synthetic notes like hedione (a derivative of jasmine) and aldehydes that amplify radiance and diffusion, ensuring the freshness lingers with crystalline clarity. A hint of pink pepper, with its soft, rosy spice from the Peruvian Schinus molle, adds a playful effervescence—its main component, rotundone, contributing a subtle peppery sparkle that dances above the citrus bouquet.

As the top notes settle, the heart blooms into an elegant floral harmony. Jasmine, with its narcotic sweetness, evokes the warmth of night air; Guerlain often uses jasmine from Grasse or Egypt, prized for its richness in benzyl acetate and indole, which give a velvety, slightly animalic dimension. Honeysuckle, delicate and creamy, unfurls next—its scent composed of natural lactones that impart a milky softness, balancing jasmine’s intensity. 

Then comes lily-of-the-valley, a flower whose fragrance cannot be naturally extracted. Its scent is recreated through carefully composed synthetics such as hydroxycitronellal and lilial, which capture the dewy, green-petal freshness of the living bloom. This interplay between natural and synthetic is crucial: the lab-created lily-of-the-valley bridges the floral accords, enhancing the realism of jasmine and honeysuckle while maintaining their transparency. Nutmeg, from the Moluccas (the Spice Islands of Indonesia), lends a warm, aromatic whisper, its eugenol content contributing a faintly woody, balsamic edge that begins to foreshadow the depth of the base.

In the dry down, the composition reveals its true identity—smooth, enveloping, and gently smoky. Cedarwood, often sourced from the Atlas Mountains of Morocco or Virginia in the United States, provides structure and poise. Rich in cedrol and thujopsene, cedar gives a dry, polished woodiness, evoking the carved balustrades and burnished stage floors of the Bolshoi itself. White musk, a creation of modern perfumery, brings softness and longevity; its synthetic molecules such as galaxolide and muscenone mimic the warmth of clean skin, extending the perfume’s presence with a silken trail. 

Tonka bean, primarily from Venezuela or Brazil, adds a sweet, almond-like warmth through its high concentration of coumarin, blending gently with cedar and musk to create a creamy, comforting accord. Finally, the heart of the fragrance—the vetiver—emerges with quiet authority. Haitian vetiver, considered the finest in the world for its elegant dryness and lack of smokiness, contributes an earthy yet sophisticated depth. Its natural isovalencenol and vetiverol molecules lend the base its green, woody, slightly nutty texture, grounding the composition like the final, resonant note of an orchestra fading into silence.

Carmen Le Bolshoï unfolds as both a tribute and a performance—a balance between the precision of French perfumery and the emotional intensity of the Russian stage. It is a fragrance of contrasts: the sparkle of citrus against the hush of woods, the light of white florals against the shadow of vetiver. Through the interplay of natural ingredients and refined synthetics, Guerlain captures the spirit of Carmen herself—bold, magnetic, and untamable—her story forever lingering in the scented air.

Bottle:

For this special edition, Guerlain presented the fragrance in its emblematic quadrilobe flacon—a timeless bottle design first created in 1908 and reserved for the house’s most prestigious compositions. The crystal-clear glass and graceful silhouette emphasize the purity of the perfume within, while the refined presentation underscores its exclusivity. Each bottle contains 60 ml of Eau de Parfum and was produced expressly for sale in Moscow. Priced at 22,000 rubles (approximately €300 or $340 USD at the time of release), Carmen Le Bolshoï was available only through select outlets in Russia, making it a rare collector’s piece that unites the artistry of perfumery and the grandeur of the performing arts.

Vetiver des Indes

Guerlain’s Vétiver des Indes Pour Parfumer le Linge et Préserver les Cachemires et les Fourrures was not intended as a personal perfume, but rather as a parfum d’ambiance—a sachet fragrance designed to scent fine textiles and protect them from damage. In the late 19th and early 20th century, such products were considered both practical and luxurious. The sachets contained the fragrant roots of vetiver—a tall tropical grass native to India—whose earthy, woody aroma was prized not only for its depth and refinement but also for its remarkable insect-repelling properties. This practice reflected a centuries-old Indian tradition in which bundles of vetiver roots, known locally as khus khus, were placed among linens and garments to impart their soothing scent while discouraging moths and other destructive insects from nesting in fabrics.

Vetiver’s insect-repelling power lies in its complex essential oil, which contains sesquiterpenes such as vetiverol, khusimol, and isovalencenol. These compounds produce a dense, earthy fragrance with green, smoky, and slightly leathery undertones—and it is precisely these heavy, resinous molecules that make vetiver undesirable to moths and larvae. The scent clings tenaciously to fibers, and because it evaporates slowly, its protective aroma lingers for months. When combined with patchouli, or pucha pat as it was called in India, the effect was even more powerful. Patchouli’s own insecticidal properties come from its principal component, patchoulol, which adds a rich, camphoraceous, slightly sweet note. Together, vetiver and patchouli created a fragrant barrier that deterred insects while perfuming shawls and furs with an exotic, grounding scent.

 

To the human nose, the aroma of such sachets would have been soothing yet sophisticated—warm earth after rain, damp woods, sun-baked roots, and soft spice all intertwined. It was a fragrance that evoked both nature and refinement, perfectly suited to the elegance of Guerlain’s clientele. The sachets were often tucked among folded linens, inside drawers, or sewn into the linings of garments to infuse them with a subtle, lingering perfume. The scent of vetiver not only protected but also preserved—it kept fabrics fresh, masking mustiness in closed trunks or wardrobes and imparting a dry, clean aroma to garments long stored away.

In India, wealthy families also used mixtures of vetiver and patchouli to perfume delicate shawls woven from fine Kashmir wool. European women, too, adopted this custom: small pouches of vetiver root or drops of its essential oil were sewn into the linings of expensive fur coats and wraps. This served a dual purpose—protecting the fur from moth larvae while subtly perfuming the material with a luxurious, smoky-woody scent that complemented the natural aroma of the pelts. Over time, the warmth of the body would coax out the oil’s rich nuances, making the garment not only preserved but beautifully scented.

Thus, Guerlain’s Vétiver des Indes sachets represented more than just a functional household item—they were a union of science, tradition, and art. Drawing upon India’s ancient aromatic wisdom and Guerlain’s refined sensibility, they transformed the simple act of storing linens or caring for furs into a ritual of quiet luxury, where the invisible protection of vetiver doubled as a whisper of elegance woven into the very fabric of life.

Ne M'Oubliez Pas 2015

Ne M’Oubliez Pas by Guerlain was launched in late September 2015 as a limited-edition fragrance for women—a creation steeped in history, emotion, and symbolism. The name, Ne M’Oubliez Pas (pronounced nuh moo-blee-ay pah), is French for “Do not forget me.” It is a phrase at once tender and commanding, evoking the timeless human desire for remembrance and connection. The name carries with it both nostalgia and intimacy—an invocation not to be forgotten, whispered like a plea between lovers or an echo of memory preserved in scent.

The title itself is drawn from Guerlain’s own heritage, referencing one of the house’s earliest lipstick lines from 1870, Ne M’Oubliez Pas, which holds the distinction of being the first modern lipstick sold in a tube. At the time, it was a revolutionary creation—both practical and luxurious—symbolizing femininity, self-expression, and allure. In naming the perfume after this historic product, Guerlain bridged two art forms—makeup and fragrance—while honoring its legendary Parisian address at 68, Champs-Élysées. Perfumer Thierry Wasser composed Ne M’Oubliez Pas as a tribute to this house of artistry and memory, capturing the spirit of Guerlain itself: at once rooted in tradition and forever forward-looking.

Launched in 2015, the perfume arrived during a time when perfumery was balancing heritage with innovation. The 2010s were marked by a wave of revivals—heritage houses reissuing or reinterpreting archival scents, while niche perfumery gained international acclaim for its daring compositions. Fashion reflected a similar mood: the late 2010s blended vintage romanticism with modern minimalism. There was an appreciation for craftsmanship, authenticity, and story-driven luxury—a return to meaning in an era saturated with mass production. Guerlain’s Ne M’Oubliez Pas embodied precisely that sensibility: it was not simply another fragrance launch, but a statement of legacy and identity.

The scent itself was described as oriental spicy woody—a composition both seductive and mysterious. It unfolds like a memory in motion, rich with warmth and shadow. Its oriental structure might feature spicy top notes—cinnamon, carnation and cumin—enlivening the senses, followed by a heart of soft florals or resinous accords, grounded by a base of amber, vanilla, and woods. The effect would be both enveloping and sophisticated, a scent that lingers like an unspoken promise. In olfactory terms, Ne M’Oubliez Pas interprets its name through depth and persistence: it is a perfume that refuses to fade quickly, one designed to be remembered long after its wearer has left the room.

Women encountering this fragrance in 2015 would have understood the title on several levels. Literally, it is a message of remembrance; emotionally, it resonates as an expression of individuality and presence. In a world increasingly transient and digital, Ne M’Oubliez Pas spoke of permanence—the enduring power of a scent to anchor memory. The name also conjures the imagery of the myosotis, or forget-me-not flower, a delicate bloom symbolizing eternal love and devotion. To wear a perfume called Ne M’Oubliez Pas was to embrace that sentiment: to leave behind an invisible trace of oneself in fragrance, to be unforgettable.

Within the broader fragrance landscape of 2015, Ne M’Oubliez Pas stood out for its romantic classicism. While many contemporary perfumes leaned toward minimalist, transparent formulas, Guerlain’s creation celebrated complexity and richness. Its oriental-spicy character harkened back to the great Guerlain perfumes of the past—Shalimar, L’Heure Bleue, Vol de Nuit—yet it was reinterpreted through modern craftsmanship and balance. In doing so, Ne M’Oubliez Pas became more than a perfume; it became a dialogue between eras, a sensual declaration of memory and artistry, reminding the world—just as its name implores—do not forget me.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Ne M'Oubliez Pas is classified as a spicy woody oriental fragrance for women.

• Top notes: plum, cardamom, cumin
• Middle notes: immortelle, carnation, rose and cinnamon
• Base notes: patchouli, vanilla, moss, woodsy notes and ambergris accord

Scent Profile:

Ne M’Oubliez Pas by Guerlain unfolds like a rich, baroque tapestry—its scent layered with warmth, mystery, and emotional resonance. Classified as a spicy woody oriental, it is both modern and timeless, an embodiment of Guerlain’s heritage and its continuing dialogue between the natural and the imagined. Each ingredient tells a story, and together they compose a fragrant memory—complex, haunting, and impossible to forget.

The perfume opens with the luscious sweetness of plum, a note that immediately captures the senses with its velvety ripeness. This fruit accord, often created through a blend of natural absolutes and synthetics such as gamma-decalactone and ionones, gives a deep purple richness—a balance of juicy brightness and shadowed darkness. The use of ionones, molecules naturally present in violets, lends the plum a soft, powdery elegance that evokes the sensation of crushed petals on skin. Into this opulent fruitiness slips the spice of cardamom, most likely sourced from Guatemala, prized for its cool, camphorous clarity and its delicate contrast between citrus and balsamic warmth. Its primary aromatic compound, 1,8-cineole, contributes a brisk, aromatic lift, while terpinyl acetate provides sweetness and finesse. Alongside it, cumin adds a surprising human warmth—a touch of sensual skin-like muskiness arising from its aldehydic molecule cuminaldehyde. While it can be provocative, Guerlain’s masterful blending tempers cumin’s intensity, using it as a whisper of intimacy that gives life to the opening, a reminder of presence and closeness.

As the top notes settle, the fragrance reveals its opulent heart—where warmth and florals entwine in an intricate dance. The golden immortelle, or everlasting flower, radiates its distinctive scent of sun-dried hay, maple syrup, and honeyed tobacco. Native to Corsica, immortelle’s essential oil is rich in italidiones—unique ketones responsible for its balsamic, slightly caramelized warmth. It brings a sun-soaked dryness that perfectly contrasts the lushness of the plum and the coolness of cardamom. Carnation, spiced and clove-like due to its eugenol content, adds a classic floral spiciness reminiscent of vintage perfumery, lending structure and a nostalgic heartbeat to the composition. Rose, the eternal symbol of femininity, offers a soft, romantic glow—likely a blend of Bulgarian rose oil for its deep honeyed undertones and Turkish rose for its citrusy freshness. Naturally rich in citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, and geraniol, rose bridges the spicy and floral elements seamlessly, while traces of synthetic rose molecules such as damascones heighten its velvety texture and longevity. Finally, cinnamon curls through the heart like a red silk ribbon, uniting the warmth of immortelle and carnation with its rich sweetness. The cinnamaldehyde it contains provides both heat and depth, reminiscent of polished wood, warmth, and quiet opulence.

As the fragrance deepens, it rests upon a base as enduring as memory itself. Patchouli, most likely sourced from Indonesia, gives an earthy, woody resonance—its patchoulol and norpatchoulenol molecules contributing to the scent’s rounded, slightly damp character. Unlike the raw, smoky patchouli of the 1970s, this is refined and softened—smoothed by Guerlain’s signature Guerlinade touch. Vanilla, sourced from Madagascar, brings creamy sweetness through vanillin and p-hydroxybenzaldehyde, but its natural richness is amplified by synthetic vanillin and ethyl vanillin, which extend its warmth and silkiness. Together, they create a sensual accord that hums softly beneath the other notes. Oakmoss, or its modern, regulated synthetic re-creation, adds an earthy greenness—evoking forests and antique wood trunks lined with velvet. It lends the perfume both gravitas and a touch of nostalgia. The woody notes—likely a blend of cedar, sandalwood, and modern synthetics such as Iso E Super—provide both structure and air, giving the fragrance its elegant diffusion. Finally, the ambergris accord completes the composition: a blend of amber molecules such as ambroxan and Cetalox that replicate the marine, musky sweetness of true ambergris, lending warmth, sensuality, and extraordinary longevity.

Smelling Ne M’Oubliez Pas is like tracing a memory through scent—a progression from the sweetness of emotion to the depth of devotion. The fragrance moves from fruit and spice to warmth and shadow, mirroring the bittersweet pull of remembrance. It smells of memory preserved: of letters kept, of fabric scented with perfume, of fleeting presence made eternal. Each note seems to echo the phrase that inspired its name—Ne m’oubliez pas—a plea, a promise, and a perfume that, true to its name, refuses to be forgotten.

Bottle:

Ne M’Oubliez Pas was conceived not only as a fragrance but as a testament to Guerlain’s enduring artistry—a celebration of its olfactory heritage, craftsmanship, and Parisian elegance. Presented as a parfum extrait, the richest and most concentrated form of fragrance, it embodies the very essence of the Maison’s savoir-faire. For this limited edition, Guerlain chose to house the scent in its most emblematic vessel—the quadrilobe flacon, a design first introduced in 1908 and long reserved for the house’s most precious compositions. Its graceful silhouette, with its four-petaled stopper echoing the form of a clover, has become a timeless symbol of Guerlain’s refined aesthetic.

For this 2015 edition, the 125 ml flacon was meticulously finished with a deep purple baudruchage, a traditional sealing technique in which a fine silk thread and wax seal are hand-applied around the neck of the bottle to ensure both authenticity and luxury. The purple hue, long associated with nobility, mystery, and memory, perfectly reflects the character of Ne M’Oubliez Pas—a fragrance of emotion, allure, and permanence. This decorative detail was executed by the Dames de Table, the highly skilled artisans of Guerlain’s own ateliers, whose work represents one of the last remaining examples of true haute parfumerie craftsmanship in France. Each flacon, therefore, is not merely a container but a handmade object of art—its perfection achieved through patience, precision, and heritage techniques passed down through generations.

This exclusive edition was limited to just 500 pieces, each individually numbered and available only at Guerlain’s historic flagship boutique at 68, Champs-Élysées in Paris. The boutique itself, long regarded as a temple of French luxury, served as the natural stage for this creation—a place where fragrance, art, and memory converge. Priced at 500 €, the release represented both rarity and reverence: a fragrance designed for collectors, connoisseurs, and admirers of the house’s legacy.

In this edition, Ne M’Oubliez Pas became more than a perfume—it was an expression of identity, of Guerlain’s devotion to beauty in every detail. From the mastery of the Dames de Table to the subtle gleam of the purple seal, every element was crafted to embody the phrase that inspired its name: “Do not forget me.” The bottle stands as a quiet promise—an object of permanence in a fleeting world, destined to be remembered long after the scent within has faded from the skin.

Bouquet de Laurier Camphrier c1847

In 1847, Petit Courrier des Dames: Journal des Modes published an elegant notice on Guerlain’s latest olfactory innovation—Bouquet de Laurier Camphrier, a fragrance that drew upon a botanical marvel newly appreciated in Europe. The article begins by tracing the perfume’s exotic origins to the Laurus camphora, or camphor laurel, a tree native to Japan and first introduced to the West by the naturalist Engelbert Kaempfer. Belonging to the Lauraceae family, the camphor laurel was celebrated not only for its majestic growth and glossy evergreen leaves but also for the aromatic substances concealed within its wood and flowers. The writer carefully distinguishes it from the Dryobalanops camphora of Sumatra—a towering forest tree that also yields crystalline camphor, but in plate-like tears resembling mica. Though both share certain olfactory and botanical affinities, the Japanese laurel’s perfume was said to be far more refined, its scent luminous and pure rather than resinous and medicinal.

Unlike the traditional camphor distilled from the wood, Bouquet de Laurier Camphrier derived from an essence newly obtained by distilling the flowers alone—a novel technique in the mid-19th century. This floral distillation produced an ethereal and volatile essence, faintly tinged with the characteristic sharpness of camphor, yet distinguished by a liveliness and delicacy unknown to European perfumers. The discovery was credited to Madame de Lagrenée, who first presented the substance to Parisian society, and to M. Renard, a French envoy to China, who provided assurance of its authenticity and recent production in the Far East. Such international collaboration reflected the era’s growing fascination with exotic botanicals and the cross-cultural exchange of luxury materials that defined mid-19th-century perfumery.

The journal praised Guerlain for transforming this rare oriental extract into a fragrance of great distinction. His creative vision and technical mastery elevated the raw material beyond its novelty, shaping it into a perfume that was at once vivid, penetrating, and suavely sweet. The scent was described as unlike any known perfume—a refined tension between brisk clarity and soft sensuality. This contrast likely arose from the interplay of natural compounds such as borneol, cineole, and safrole, responsible for the camphoraceous coolness, balanced by floral terpenes that imparted sweetness and warmth. Guerlain’s art lay in tempering the volatile freshness with a harmonious roundness, crafting a perfume that captured both exotic vigor and Parisian sophistication.

The notice predicted that Bouquet de Laurier Camphrier would surpass in popularity the celebrated botanical perfumes then fashionable in European salons—Vétiver, Ayapana, Géranium, Patchouli, and Verveine de l’Inde—all of which Guerlain had already helped bring to prominence. Within this lineage, the Bouquet de Laurier Camphrier represented both innovation and continuity: a fresh expression of nature’s aromatic power filtered through the cultivated artistry of the perfumer’s hand. To the fashionable women of 1847, it offered not merely fragrance, but an emblem of modern curiosity and global refinement—an olfactory bridge between the mysteries of the Orient and the elegance of Paris.

La Petite Robe Noire Hair Mist c2014

La Petite Robe Noire Hair Mist by Guerlain, launched in 2014 and created by Thierry Wasser, captures the joyful, flirtatious spirit of the original perfume but reimagined in a delicate mist designed to scent and beautify the hair. More than a fragrance accessory, it is described by Guerlain as a woman’s “everyday secret weapon,” leaving an airy, scented trace wherever she moves—a whisper of elegance that lingers like the memory of silk brushing past the skin.

The scent opens with an effervescent sparkle, as if sunlight has struck the surface of a crystal flute filled with rosé champagne. The first impression is that of a tender floral melody—rose, jasmine, and orange blossom intertwine in a graceful dance. The rose, Guerlain’s eternal muse, radiates with a youthful freshness—its petals soft and dewy, recalling the cool of morning air. The jasmine, delicate yet luminous, lends a creamy, almost honeyed warmth, while orange blossom adds a golden sweetness touched with the brightness of Mediterranean sunshine. Together, they form a floral accord that is light, joyful, and effortlessly feminine.

Then comes the playful heart—a juicy medley of cherry, apple, and blackcurrant, enlivened by green notes that bring crispness and sparkle. The cherry, both tart and candied, recalls the gourmand signature of La Petite Robe Noire’s original Eau de Parfum, though softened here for the hair mist’s lighter form. The apple lends a bright, crunchy freshness, while the blackcurrant introduces a tangy, slightly musky fruitiness, rich in natural aroma molecules such as dimethyl sulfide and blackcurrant bud absolute’s ionones, which lend a natural leafy nuance. The subtle green notes amplify this liveliness, evoking the scent of crushed leaves and orchard air, keeping the sweetness playful rather than cloying.

As the fragrance settles, it drapes the hair in a soft, sensual base of white amber and white musks. The amber adds a gentle, resinous warmth—more like sunlight diffused through silk than heavy oriental amber—while white musks (modern synthetic compounds like galaxolide or helvetolide) wrap around the hair in a clean, velvety aura. These musks also serve a practical function: they cling beautifully to the hair’s keratin fibers, allowing the scent to diffuse subtly throughout the day with every movement. The result is a “halo effect”—the perfume’s radiance surrounding the wearer without overwhelming her.

In La Petite Robe Noire Hair Mist, Guerlain managed to reinterpret one of its modern icons into an ethereal, wearable gesture of luxury. Light enough for daily use yet unmistakably chic, it captures the essence of French femininity: effortless, romantic, and just a little mischievous.

From Guerlain:"Carried everywhere, I am your everyday secret weapon. Heads turn as I go past. I adorn the hair in a deliciously scented veil. I am La Petite Robe Noire hair mist. Fresh Floral. Fresh, delicate, swirling. In the first wink, a bouquet of rose, jasmine and orange blossom takes flight to a delicate melody. The second twirl takes place as cherry, apple and blackcurrant enter the stage, refreshed by explosive green notes. Finally, white amber temptations are revealed and a cloud of white musks envelops the ensemble in a cosy halo."

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a fruity floral hair fragrance mist for women.

• Top notes: sour cherry and blackcurrant
• Middle notes: rose, jasmine, orange blossom, and green notes
• Base notes: white musk and white amber

It is available in the following:

30 ml

Veritable Moelle de Boeuf

To nourish and beautify the hair, Guerlain introduced Véritable Moelle de Bœuf—a richly perfumed pomade formulated from beef marrow, long regarded as a natural remedy for strengthening and stimulating hair growth. In the 19th century, the use of animal fats and marrow was considered one of the most effective treatments for dry, brittle, or thinning hair. The marrow, gently melted and clarified, was believed to restore vitality to the scalp and impart a radiant sheen to the hair. Its dense, lipid-rich composition mimicked the scalp’s natural oils, replenishing moisture and protecting the strands from the effects of heat, sun, and frequent styling. Guerlain, ever the innovator, transformed this simple restorative into a refined cosmetic by perfuming it with a luxurious blend of essences and presenting it in an exquisite porcelain pot.

The base of the formula combined purified bone marrow, beef or veal fat, and hazelnut oil, creating a deeply emollient treatment. The marrow and fat provided the rich, conditioning body of the pomade—each laden with nourishing triglycerides and sterols that softened coarse hair and repaired dryness. Hazelnut oil, prized for its light, silky texture, lent balance to the heavier animal fats, helping the mixture absorb more easily while adding a gentle gloss. It also supplied vitamin E and essential fatty acids, both beneficial for maintaining scalp health and preventing breakage. To this unctuous base, Guerlain added Balsam of Peru and vanilla—not only for their warm, comforting aroma but also for their natural antiseptic and soothing properties, which helped calm irritation and imparted a faint golden tint to the blend.

Once perfumed, the pomade transcended the rustic simplicity of its ingredients. Guerlain’s perfumer would scent the clarified marrow with a selection of cinnamon, lavender, citronella, vetiver, and carnation essences. Each essence served a purpose: cinnamon’s mild stimulatory warmth was thought to encourage circulation to the scalp; lavender lent both a calming fragrance and a natural antibacterial quality; citronella added brightness and kept the preparation feeling fresh; vetiver grounded the composition with its earthy, woody depth; and carnation brought a hint of spicy floral sophistication. Together, they turned the utilitarian act of hair care into a sensory pleasure.

When applied, Véritable Moelle de Bœuf would leave the hair luxuriously soft and gleaming, enveloped in a subtle fragrance that evolved with the warmth of the body. The initial impression would be of creamy sweetness, tinged with the aromatic warmth of vanilla and balsam. As the hair moved, delicate wafts of lavender, spicy carnation, and smoky vetiver would rise, blending with the faint animalic richness of the marrow itself—a scent both comforting and slightly exotic.

The Véritable Moelle de Bœuf pomade was presented in a porcelain cosmetic box of exceptional craftsmanship, made by the porcelain and faience maker Deroche. The small round box, measuring 6.8 cm in diameter, was adorned with grisaille transfers depicting oxen, a refined nod to the product’s principal ingredient, and accented with gilded highlights that added an elegant luster to the surface. Deroche’s work was renowned for its precision and delicacy, qualities that perfectly complemented Guerlain’s luxurious vision.

This collaboration between Guerlain and Deroche exemplified the 19th-century union of art and utility—where even a simple hair pomade became an object of beauty. The fine porcelain, cool and smooth to the touch, protected the precious preparation within, while its decoration reflected the scientific sophistication and decorative refinement of the era. In such a vessel, Guerlain’s Véritable Moelle de Bœuf was not merely a cosmetic; it was a testament to the harmony between French perfumery, craftsmanship, and design.

In the boudoirs of fashionable women, Véritable Moelle de Bœuf stood not merely as a hair treatment, but as a symbol of refinement—transforming a humble apothecary remedy into a luxurious ritual of care and scent.

Flacon Carre Plat Ruspini c1830

Ruspini’s Elixir for the Teeth and Gums by Guerlain, introduced around 1830, was presented in the elegant Flacon Carré Plat, a flat, square-shaped glass bottle typical of early Guerlain pharmacy and cosmetic preparations. The elixir itself was a refined blend rooted in 18th-century dental science and perfumery, formulated to strengthen the gums, freshen the breath, and soothe toothaches. Its composition included the root of Florentine iris—long valued for its delicate violet-like aroma and mild astringency—combined with cloves, known for their antiseptic and analgesic qualities. These were infused in rectified spirit, preserving the aromatic essence while providing a cooling, cleansing effect. The addition of ambergris lent a smooth, luxurious undertone, while camphor added a sharp, medicinal freshness. The ingredients were left to macerate for fourteen days, resulting in a richly scented elixir used both as a cosmetic and therapeutic dentifrice.

The scent of the elixir would have been distinctive—a mingling of warm spice, clean spirit, floral powderiness, and the subtle animalic depth of ambergris—a combination that was as elegant as it was functional. Its use would leave a pleasantly perfumed breath and a sensation of invigorated gums, consistent with Guerlain’s reputation for transforming everyday hygiene into a ritual of refinement.

The formula originated with Chevalier Bartholomew Ruspini (1730–1813), a noted Italian-born surgeon-dentist who established his practice in London and earned the royal appointment as Surgeon-Dentist to the Prince of Wales (later King George IV). By 1801, Ruspini’s name had become synonymous with oral care innovations such as his Dentifrice Powder, Tincture for beautifying and preserving the teeth and gums, and his Balsamic Styptic for stopping bleeding. The Elixir, later produced by Guerlain, drew from this prestigious lineage. Ruspini had claimed a surgical diploma from Bergamo and trained under Monsieur Catalan, a renowned Parisian surgeon-dentist. His legacy continued through his three sons, who all followed him into the dental profession, perpetuating the Ruspini name in early modern dentistry.

Thus, Guerlain’s Ruspini’s Elixir for the Teeth and Gums represented a meeting of medical craftsmanship and French perfumery, embodying both scientific efficacy and luxury presentation—a testament to the brand’s early role in bridging beauty, health, and elegant self-care.