Geranium d'Espagne c1879

Geranium d’Espagne by Guerlain was introduced around 1879–1881, during a time when European society was captivated by exotic imagery and the allure of foreign lands. The name, Geranium d’Espagne—literally translated from French as “Spanish Geranium” (pronounced "zheh-rah-nee-oom day-spahn-yuh")—evokes the sunlit gardens and vibrant landscapes of Spain. It conjures visions of terracotta courtyards, vivid red geraniums spilling from wrought-iron balconies, and the warmth of Mediterranean air infused with spice and flowers. By choosing this name, Guerlain tapped into the 19th-century fascination with Orientalism and regional romanticism, presenting the perfume as both exotic and refined.

The late 19th century, particularly the Belle Époque, was a period of optimism, technological progress, and artistic flourishing in France. Fashion favored elaborate gowns with bustles, corsets, and layers of lace, while perfumery began to reflect a newfound sophistication, shifting from simple single-note florals to more structured blends. Women of the time, eager to embrace cosmopolitan trends, would have found Geranium d’Espagne both fashionable and evocative—a scent that suggested worldliness and a hint of daring, while still firmly rooted in floral elegance. Its name alone promised both refinement and passion, qualities associated with the romanticized vision of Spain that captivated the French imagination.

In olfactory terms, “Geranium d’Espagne” would have been interpreted as a floral with a spicy, aromatic edge, mirroring the natural qualities of the geranium flower itself. Geranium is unique in perfumery because, beyond its rosy-green freshness, it carries a slightly minty, peppery bite, often used to add lift and vibrancy to floral compositions. The addition of spices or warm accents emphasized its piquant character, making the fragrance stand out against more demure florals of the era. This balance between delicacy and warmth reflected not only the flower’s aromatic complexity but also the romantic ideals associated with Spain—vivid, passionate, and richly atmospheric.

Spanish Geranium was a popular fragrance theme throughout the 19th and early 20th centuries, with nearly every major perfumery offering its own version. Recipes appeared frequently in period formularies, often adhering to a shared structure but adjusted with small variations. Some perfumers highlighted the floral character, while others leaned into spice or balsamic notes to distinguish their creation. Guerlain’s version, true to the house’s reputation, likely emphasized refinement and balance, ensuring it stood out among its many competitors. The trend remained influential long enough for Jacques Guerlain to revisit and reformulate the fragrance in 1922, updating it with modern materials. Early compositions had relied almost exclusively on tinctures, infusions, and natural extracts, but by the close of the 19th century, synthetics such as geraniol—a key aroma chemical with a rosy, slightly citrusy freshness—were being incorporated. These new materials allowed perfumers to both amplify the natural effect of geranium and create more stable, long-lasting accords, bridging the gap between tradition and modernity.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Geranium d'Espagne is classified as a spicy floral fragrance for women, reflecting the aromatic and slightly piquant character of the geranium flower..

• Top notes: bergamot, violet, rose, geraniol, Spanish geranium
• Middle notes: palmarosa, rose, Algerian geranium, tuberose, jasmine, Manila ylang ylang
• Base notes: clove, musk, orris, cedar, sandalwood

Scent Profile:

When one encounters Geranium d’Espagne, the impression is both immediate and layered—an unfolding of freshness, floral complexity, and subtle spice that together capture the spirited character of the geranium flower. The fragrance opens brightly, almost effervescently, with bergamot lending its crisp, sparkling citrus lift. This Italian bergamot is prized for its refined balance of sweetness and tartness, its essential oil naturally containing linalyl acetate and limonene, which give it a radiant yet smooth brightness. Against this fresh backdrop, a delicate veil of violet appears, powdery and green, its ionones contributing a soft, velvety quality that cushions the sharper citrus. 

Soon, the perfume takes on a rosy glow—rose absolute, with its rich bouquet of citronellol, geraniol, and phenylethyl alcohol, intertwines with geraniol itself (here also employed as a standalone molecule). By highlighting geraniol, Guerlain amplifies the rosy-lemony freshness that naturally occurs in both rose and geranium, bridging them seamlessly into the central theme of Spanish geranium. This variety, cultivated under the hot Iberian sun, develops a spicier, slightly minty facet compared to North African geraniums, the warmth of the climate drawing out sharper terpenes and a green pungency that gives the fragrance its distinct piquant sparkle.

The heart of Geranium d’Espagne expands with lush florals and aromatic accents. Palmarosa, a grass native to India, reveals a green, rosy nuance, owing again to its high geraniol content—here acting as a natural echo of the Spanish geranium note, reinforcing the central theme while adding a grassy brightness. More rose deepens the floral body, but now it is joined by opulent tuberose, creamy, narcotic, and laced with buttery indoles that lend a heady sensuality. The intoxicating quality continues with jasmine, whose natural indole and benzyl acetate bring an almost animalic warmth beneath its white-floral sweetness. 

From the Philippines, Manila ylang ylang contributes a uniquely exotic profile—its tropical climate producing oil rich in benzyl benzoate and p-cresyl methyl ether, giving it both creamy-solar and slightly leathery undertones. This balance of lush white florals against the sharper geranium threads creates a tension between warmth and coolness, decadence and clarity, making the heart both dramatic and refined. Meanwhile, Algerian geranium, harvested in the Mediterranean’s arid soils, offers a greener, slightly peppery counterpoint to its Spanish cousin, distinguished by its dry herbal quality—a nod to the North African influence in European perfumery at the time.

The base anchors the composition with depth, richness, and longevity. Clove, with its eugenol-driven spicy warmth, ties seamlessly to the geranium’s natural piquancy, extending the peppery accents into the drydown. Orris root, powdered and buttery, adds a soft, suede-like texture, while musk enfolds the composition in a sensual haze, smoothing the sharper edges and lending animalic warmth. Cedarwood, likely Atlas cedar from Morocco, contributes its dry, pencil-shaving woodiness, grounded by the creamy balsamic qualities of sandalwood, whose Mysore origin was particularly valued for its smooth, almost milky undertone rich in santalols. Together, these woods and resins form a steady foundation for the lively, spicy florals above.

In Geranium d’Espagne, natural and synthetic elements are carefully balanced—the isolated geraniol heightening the effect of natural geranium and rose, while natural extracts provide the fullness, complexity, and unpredictable nuance that no molecule alone can replicate. The result is a fragrance that feels at once botanical and stylized: a spicy floral that captures the brightness of Mediterranean gardens, the exoticism of foreign blooms, and the quiet sophistication that defined Guerlain’s art of perfumery at the turn of the century.

Bottles:

The perfume was presented in several signature flacons, it was first contained in the Carré flacon (parfum) and then others including the Quadrilobe (parfum) starting in 1908, Flacon Guerre (parfum) 1938-1945, and the Goutte flacon (eau de toilette) starting in 1923. It was eventually discontinued at an unknown date.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Launched in 1879, Geranium d’Espagne remained a part of Guerlain’s collection for several decades, its longevity a testament to its popularity with women who cherished its lively, spicy floral character. Though the exact date of its discontinuation is not recorded, archival references confirm that the fragrance was still being sold in the 1940s, placing it among the house’s long-standing creations that bridged the late 19th and early 20th centuries.

During its life span, Geranium d’Espagne would have appealed to women who sought a perfume both elegant and distinctive, embodying the bright, piquant qualities of geranium—an ingredient that carried exotic associations with Spain and the Mediterranean. Its continued availability well into the 20th century shows how Guerlain’s clientele valued its enduring freshness and spice, even as newer, more complex compositions emerged. Like many early Guerlain fragrances, it eventually faded quietly from the catalogue, leaving behind only a trace in history, yet its memory lingers as part of the rich fabric of Guerlain’s early explorations in floral perfumery.

Bouquet Mademoiselle c1846

Bouquet Mademoiselle by Guerlain was first launched in 1846, during a period when perfumery was increasingly celebrating femininity and elegance through delicately composed floral fragrances. The name, “Bouquet Mademoiselle”, is French, pronounced roughly as “boo-kay mad-mwaz-el,” and translates literally to “Miss’s Bouquet.” The words evoke images of a carefully gathered, dainty bouquet of flowers, the kind a young lady might carry during a stroll through a sunlit garden. It conveys a sense of youthful charm, refinement, and innocence, paired with subtle sophistication. For women of the mid-19th century, the fragrance would have resonated with ideals of grace, modesty, and cultivated femininity, perfectly complementing the era’s fashions of flowing gowns, delicate lace, and intricate hairstyles.

Created by Aimé Guerlain, Bouquet Mademoiselle was reformulated around 1890 and dedicated to María de las Mercedes, Princess of Asturias, the heir presumptive to the Spanish throne. This connection lent the perfume an air of prestige, linking its floral elegance to the refinement and sophistication of royalty. The fragrance itself is classified as a floral oriental with powdery nuances, reflecting a delicate balance between sweetness, warmth, and soft, powdery elegance. It opens with a bouquet of violet and rose, notes that were highly prized for their subtle, romantic, and feminine character, perfectly in keeping with the sentimental sensibilities of the period.

The heart of Bouquet Mademoiselle is a tender floral accord, enhanced by subtle oriental warmth that provides depth and longevity without overpowering the wearer. Powdery elements, likely derived from orris and violet ionones, lend the perfume a soft, elegant finish, giving it an airy, graceful quality. In its time, it fit well within contemporary trends, as many perfumers were producing floral compositions built around rose and violet, yet Bouquet Mademoiselle distinguished itself through its suave and gracefully charming personality, creating a fragrance that felt both familiar and refined, with a signature sophistication unique to the Guerlain house.

Parfums Préparés par Condensation:

Bouquet Mademoiselle occupied a distinguished place within Guerlain’s “Parfums Préparés par Condensation” series, a collection celebrated for its originality, refinement, and the artistry of its compositions. The term “Parfums Préparés par Condensation” translates literally to “Perfumes Prepared by Condensation” and refers to a sophisticated method of extracting aromatic compounds, most commonly via steam distillation, which was widely employed in the 19th and early 20th centuries. In this process, fresh plant or flower material is exposed to steam, causing its volatile aromatic compounds to evaporate. The resulting vapor is then cooled and condensed into a concentrated liquid essence. Compared to techniques like enfleurage or maceration, which rely on absorption or soaking, condensation preserves the full aromatic profile of the raw material, highlighting subtle nuances and enhancing both the richness and longevity of the fragrance. For Guerlain, presenting a perfume within this series signaled not only technical mastery but also a dedication to olfactory sophistication and artisanal quality.

Within the series, each fragrance was designed to possess a distinct character. Bouquet Mademoiselle, in particular, was described as suave and gracefully charming, a delicate floral oriental with powdery nuances that exuded elegance and refinement. Its bouquet of violet and rose, tender yet nuanced, reflected the sentimentality and femininity cherished in the late 19th century. This smooth, polished composition was harmoniously balanced, creating an aroma that was immediately recognizable yet gentle, never overpowering, in keeping with the wearer’s grace and sophistication.

Other members of the series emphasized contrasting qualities: Le Jardin de Mon Curé was flowery, persistent, and original; Belle France projected freshness and staying power; Cyprisine was highly accentué, with intensified notes for dramatic effect; and Dix Petales de Roses offered a fresh, flowery, and smooth experience. Gavotte and Grande Maréchale highlighted originality and long-lasting presence, while Paris Nouveau and Rodomel showcased sweet, charming, enduring floral tones. Tsao-Ko was boldly accentuated, immediately distinctive, whereas Violette à Deux Sous combined sweetness with a suave, persistent character. Young Princess provided a soft, sweet, and sophisticated impression, rounding out the series.

Within this context, descriptors such as accentué, suave, persistent, and original carried precise meaning. An accentué fragrance emphasizes select notes to make them prominent and memorable. A suave perfume is smooth, polished, and elegantly balanced, harmoniously highlighting the wearer’s refinement. A persistent scent carries heavier, long-lasting notes that linger for hours, while an original fragrance introduces novel and inventive combinations, reflecting Guerlain’s creative audacity. Bouquet Mademoiselle, with its tender floral oriental elegance, exemplified the smooth sophistication and timeless charm that defined the pinnacle of Guerlain’s artistry in this celebrated series.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Bouquet Mademoiselle is classified as a floral oriental fragrance with powdery nuances.

• Top notes: bergamot, cassie, almond, violet, rose tincture 
• Middle notes: jasmine, rose otto, violet, ionone, orris, rosewood, vetiver, patchouli
• Base notes: civet, ambergris, storax, sandalwood, benzoin, musk, ambrette

Scent Profile:

Bouquet Mademoiselle unfolds like a refined floral oriental, opening with top notes that immediately charm the senses. The bright, sparkling bergamot offers a citrusy lift, its natural limonene lending a crisp, effervescent quality that invigorates without overwhelming. Cassie, derived from the blossoms of Acacia farnesiana, introduces a warm, sweetly floral aroma with subtle honeyed nuances, a delicate contrast to the citrus brightness. Almond imparts a soft, nutty warmth, its lactones providing creamy, slightly gourmand undertones that enrich the perfume’s opening. Violet contributes a gentle powderiness, delicate and airy, a floral whisper that balances the richness of the cassie and almond. Meanwhile, rose tincture provides a natural, slightly tinctured aroma reminiscent of freshly steeped petals, deepening the floral impression and hinting at the oriental heart to come. Together, these notes create a fresh yet subtly opulent introduction, immediately sophisticated yet tender.

As Bouquet Mademoiselle evolves into its heart, the bouquet intensifies into a lush, powdery floral composition. Jasmine lends its radiant, narcotic sweetness, a floral cornerstone that harmonizes with rose otto, sourced traditionally from Bulgaria or Turkey, where cooler climates produce roses with a richer, more complex aroma dominated by phenylethyl alcohol, providing both depth and a natural rosy warmth. Violet repeats here, enhancing the soft, powdery character, while ionone, a synthetic aromatic component derived from violets, amplifies the floral nuances and lends a refined, ethereal violet powderiness that natural violet alone could not achieve. 

Orris root, with its iris pallida origin from Italy, contributes a delicate, powdery, and slightly woody aroma, rich in irones that give the perfume a velvety depth. Rosewood, typically from Brazil, adds a sweet, woody floral note with subtle camphoraceous freshness, complementing the vetiver from Haiti, which lends earthy, green, and slightly smoky facets. Patchouli, originating from Indonesia, contributes a deep, resinous earthiness with naturally occurring patchoulol that enhances the fragrance’s oriental structure. This middle phase balances airy floral sweetness with grounded, nuanced woodiness, creating a smooth, sophisticated character that is elegant and persistent.

The base notes of Bouquet Mademoiselle are luxuriously warm, enduring, and subtly animalic. Civet, traditionally sourced from African civet cats, adds a musky, slightly leathery depth, while ambergris, a rare marine secretion, provides a salty, sweet, and sensual richness that enhances the fragrance’s longevity and radiance. Storax contributes balsamic, slightly spicy warmth, harmonizing with sandalwood from Mysore, prized for its creamy, soft, and lasting woody aroma. Benzoin, a resin from Southeast Asia, offers sweet, vanillic warmth that blends seamlessly with musk and ambrette, giving a natural, slightly animalic sensuality. Together, these base notes anchor the floral and oriental heart with a sophisticated, velvety finish, leaving a trail that is both elegant and memorable.

Bouquet Mademoiselle, in its entirety, is a masterful interplay of bright citrus, tender floral powders, and deep oriental warmth. The combination of natural extracts, regional distinctions, and carefully chosen aromachemicals—particularly the use of ionones to enhance violet and orris—creates a perfume that is at once delicate and persistent, sophisticated yet inviting. It embodies the 19th-century elegance of floral oriental fragrances, a powdery, charming composition that leaves a graceful, lasting impression.

Bottles:

Presented in the refined Carré flacon and the flacon Plat, the perfume epitomized the grace, elegance, and aristocratic femininity associated with its time..

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown.

Ambre Eternel 2016

Ambre Éternel by Guerlain, launched in January 2016, marked the second chapter in the Les Absolus d’Orient collection — a series inspired by the perfumed grandeur and opulent sensuality of the East. Following Santal Royal, this composition was crafted by Thierry Wasser, Guerlain’s in-house perfumer, as a tribute to the timeless allure of amber, a material that has symbolized warmth, mystery, and immortality for centuries. Initially released exclusively in the United Arab Emirates, Ambre Éternel spoke directly to the region’s appreciation for deep, resinous, and enveloping scents before becoming available worldwide in February 2016.

The name “Ambre Éternel” translates from French as “Eternal Amber” (pronounced Om-bruh Eh-tair-nel), a phrase that immediately evokes images of something precious, luminous, and enduring. The word ambre conjures the golden warmth of fossilized resin, but in perfumery, it refers to the sensual accord built from ambergris, vanilla, labdanum, and benzoin — ingredients that together create an impression of molten gold and sunlit skin. Éternel, meaning “eternal,” amplifies the sense of permanence and devotion, suggesting a fragrance that transcends time and fashion, much like the oriental materials that inspired it.

When Ambre Éternel was released, the early 2010s perfume landscape was defined by a growing fascination with Middle Eastern perfumery. Western houses were increasingly seeking to capture the richness and intensity beloved in Arabian olfactory culture — oud, amber, incense, and leather were no longer niche ingredients but part of a global trend toward luxurious, genderless oriental compositions. In this context, Guerlain’s offering stood out not as a commercial imitation but as a respectful dialogue between French sophistication and Eastern sensuality.

 

To the women and men of 2016, a perfume called Ambre Éternel would have felt like an invitation to travel — both inward and across cultures. It promised warmth, mystery, and timelessness, appealing to a new generation of perfume connoisseurs drawn to artisanal craftsmanship and authenticity. The imagery is evocative: golden light filtering through desert sands, silks perfumed with incense, and the intimate glow of ambergris softening the austerity of spice and smoke.

In scent, Ambre Éternel unfolds as a woody oriental, seamlessly balanced between power and restraint. The opening is infused with cardamom and coriander, whose aromatic spiciness lends brightness and movement to the composition. These spices, rich in natural aldehydes and terpenes, create a sparkling lift before the fragrance deepens into its heart. There, orange blossom introduces a subtle floral thread — its indolic sweetness and honeyed warmth tempering the darker tones — while incense curls through the composition like sacred smoke. The base is anchored by real ambergris, rare and animalic, which lends a mineral smoothness unlike any synthetic counterpart. Leather and dry woods follow, grounding the scent in a tactile sensuality that lingers for hours.

Within the landscape of 2016 perfumery, Ambre Éternel was both timeless and timely. It embraced the prevailing trend of oriental luxury but interpreted it through Guerlain’s signature restraint — elegant rather than overwhelming, mysterious yet luminous. It was not merely another amber fragrance; it was Guerlain’s vision of eternity bottled, a meeting of heritage and modernity, and a continuation of the house’s enduring dialogue between East and West.

 

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like?  Classified as a woody oriental for both men and women, it combines the warmth of amber with resinous, woody, and spicy undertones, evoking the rich sensuality and depth of the Orient.

• Top notes: coriander, cardamom, cinnamon, true ambergris
• Middle notes: peach, orange blossom, ylang ylang
• Base notes: woody notes, leather

Scent Profile:

As the first veil of Ambre Éternel unfolds, I’m greeted by a swirl of spices that feels alive, shimmering with heat and texture. Coriander rises first — its green, citrusy brightness reminiscent of crushed seeds warmed by the sun. This spice, often sourced from the Mediterranean basin, has a natural linalool content that gives it a lightly floral, almost peppery lift. Here, it sparkles like morning dew before deepening into the fragrance’s richer layers. 

Cardamom follows close behind, that cool, camphorous warmth so distinctive to pods grown in India’s Malabar region. Their essential oil contains cineole and terpinyl acetate, which create that paradoxical freshness that dances over the darker tones of the composition — a whisper of silk over the skin. Then comes cinnamon, not the sharp bakery spice of cheap blends, but the fine Ceylon variety, red-gold and soft, rich in cinnamaldehyde. It lends a velvet heat, an echo of spice markets at dusk, grounding the brightness of cardamom with the burnished sweetness of ancient wood.

Threaded through this lively opening is true ambergris, the soul of the perfume. Unlike amber accords built from resins and vanillin, genuine ambergris — a rare substance aged by sea and sun — offers something ineffable: a soft, saline warmth, musky yet airy, animalic yet luminous. Its natural ambrein molecules diffuse the other notes, giving them space and depth, like scent carried on the breath of ocean wind. Where synthetics often give sharpness or exaggeration, this ambergris is subtle, endlessly smooth, transforming the spicy top into something almost tactile, like sun-warmed skin after a day beneath desert light.

As the heart begins to bloom, a gentle succulence of peach emerges — not syrupy or candied, but the soft blush of ripe fruit just split open. This note adds a rounded sweetness, echoing the warmth of the spices while lending a human tenderness. It melts seamlessly into orange blossom, radiant and honeyed, distilled from the delicate flowers of North African bitter orange trees. Rich in linalool and nerolidol, the essence offers both sparkle and creaminess — a golden luminosity that bridges the fruit to the florals. The ylang ylang, often sourced from the Comoros or Madagascar, breathes narcotic lushness into the heart; its benzyl acetate and methyl salicylate components give it a solar, almost tropical character. Together, these florals temper the amber’s animalic pull, weaving an aura of sensual restraint — the scent of warm petals caught on perfumed skin.

As the perfume deepens, wood and leather take center stage, the composition now pulsing with a dry, shadowed sensuality. The woody accord evokes aged cedar and sandalwood, their natural sesquiterpenes releasing a creamy, resinous hum that anchors the fragrance. There’s a suggestion of smoke — perhaps the lingering echo of incense — that mingles with the leather note, soft and supple like tanned hide. This final chord feels ancient, eternal, as if born of fire and skin, resin and time. It’s here that Ambre Éternel earns its name: the amber warmth never fades, only softens into a glow that seems to live on the skin, a scent that hums rather than shouts.

In its entirety, Ambre Éternel is an ode to contrast and continuity — cool and warm, light and dark, flesh and spirit. Every ingredient serves the amber’s eternal theme: the spices ignite it, the florals soften it, and the woods cradle it in silence. It is the perfume of endurance — the embodiment of warmth made eternal.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown.

Shalimar Yellow Gold Flacon 2008

To celebrate its remarkable 180th anniversary in 2008, Guerlain honored its most legendary creation, Shalimar, with a magnificent limited edition presentation: the “Shalimar Yellow Gold”. This edition paid tribute not through a reformulation of the perfume, but through a visual and tactile expression of its enduring opulence. The fragrance itself — unchanged from Jacques Guerlain’s 1925 masterpiece — was housed in a resplendent matte gold flacon, its surface glowing softly like brushed metal beneath candlelight. The gold finish reimagined the sensuality of Shalimar’s oriental character in a new light: instead of the glint of crystal, the bottle exuded warmth, weight, and quiet grandeur, symbolizing Guerlain’s gilded legacy.

The Eau de Toilette edition, in its full matte gold attire, reflected the graceful curves of the classic Shalimar bottle — the scalloped fan-shaped stopper and the voluptuous basin form designed by Raymond Guerlain, inspired by the fountains of the Shalimar Gardens in Lahore. Yet in this anniversary interpretation, every contour seemed touched by sunlight — a bottle transformed into a precious object, both perfume and jewel. The muted sheen of the gold was deliberately matte rather than mirrored, giving it a sense of timelessness, like an antique artifact discovered in a Maharaja’s treasury rather than a freshly minted ornament.

A second edition, even more exclusive, was created for the Extrait de Parfum, presented in a smaller 30 ml bottle also finished in matte gold and individually numbered. This edition was priced at 278 euros, a nod to the rarity and artistry of the piece rather than any change to the fragrance inside. The extrait’s denser formula, rich in vanilla, tonka, and opoponax, took on a new dimension when enclosed within the gold — as if the bottle itself suggested the inner radiance of the scent it held.

Though the perfume remained unchanged, the symbolism of this presentation was profound. Shalimar — long regarded as the quintessence of oriental luxury — was now clothed in the color of the element that best represents eternity, glory, and craftsmanship. The golden casing paid homage to Guerlain’s mastery of both perfumery and presentation — a reminder that every Guerlain flacon is as much a piece of art as the fragrance it holds.

In this way, Shalimar Yellow Gold served as both a celebration and a reaffirmation: a declaration that after 180 years, Guerlain’s heart still beats within the shimmer of artistry, the depth of heritage, and the timeless seduction of gold.

Guerlain Fragrances: Rare vs. Common

It is common to see sellers on platforms like eBay describing certain Guerlain perfumes as “rare,” when in reality some of the most frequently encountered, such as Shalimar, Mitsouko, and Jicky, are anything but rare. These fragrances, in fact, are among the most widely produced and distributed Guerlain creations, with continuous availability spanning decades, making them the opposite of scarce.

Throughout its long history, Guerlain has launched several hundred perfumes. While a handful of these remain in production today, others are more difficult to find, having been discontinued or produced only for a limited time. Some of these lost or short-lived compositions are genuinely rare and highly sought after by collectors.

Fantastic Five:

When considering the most popular and enduring Guerlain fragrances, there are what might be called the “fantastic five.” These are the house’s cornerstones, perfumes that have been continuously offered for well over a century in some cases and remain iconic standards in perfumery. They include Shalimar, Mitsouko, Jicky, L’Heure Bleue, and Eau de Cologne Impériale. Far from rare, these perfumes have secured their place as timeless classics, consistently produced and readily available, ensuring their legacy within the Guerlain tradition.

• Eau de Cologne Impériale
• Jicky
• L’Heure Bleue
• Mitsouko
• Shalimar

Second Most Commonly Found:

The second most commonly found group of Guerlain perfumes consists of fragrances that, while not as universally recognized or consistently marketed as the “fantastic five,” are nevertheless widely available and often encountered both in current production and on the resale market. These perfumes represent a mix of long-standing classics, popular modern creations, and specialty lines, showing Guerlain’s ability to appeal to both traditionalists and newer audiences.

This category includes enduring staples such as Après L’Ondée, Chamade, Chant d’Arômes, Jardins de Bagatelle, Mouchoir de Monsieur, Nahema, Parure, Samsara, Sous le Vent, Vega, and Vol de Nuit. These perfumes, though perhaps less well-known to casual buyers than Shalimar or Mitsouko, still maintain a strong presence due to their historical importance or lasting popularity.

Alongside these, Guerlain’s men’s fragrances such as Derby, Habit Rouge, Héritage, Vetiver, and Guerlain Homme are frequently found, reflecting the house’s balanced portfolio between feminine and masculine compositions. Limited seasonal offerings like Muguet and later collections such as Les Voyages Olfactifs, Elixirs Charnels, and L’Art et la Matière are also well represented, as they have been actively produced and marketed within the past few decades.

Modern releases like Idylle, Insolence, La Petite Robe Noire, L’Instant, Mahora, Ode, Champs Élysées (the 1996 version), and the extensive Aqua Allegoria line further reinforce Guerlain’s presence in contemporary perfumery. While not rare, these fragrances form the backbone of the brand’s broader catalogue, widely circulated and readily available to collectors and enthusiasts alike.

The second most commonly found are :

• Apres L'Ondee
• Aqua Allegoria scents
• Chamade
• Champs Elysees (1996 version)
• Chant d'Aromes
• Coriolan
• Derby
• Eau de Guerlain
• Elixirs Charnels line
• Guerlain Homme
• Habit Rouge
• Heritage
• Idylle
• Insolence
• Jardins de Bagatelle
• La Petite Robe Noire
• L 'Art et la Matière scents
• L'Instant
• Les Voyages Olfactifs scents
• Liu
• Mahora
• Mouchoir de Monsieur
• Muguet
• Nahema
• Ode
• Parure
• Petit Guerlain
• Samsara
• Sous le Vent
• Vega
• Vetiver
• Vol de Nuit

Very Valuable:

The perfumes that fall into the “less commonly found, but very valuable” category are largely creations from the early to mid-20th century. Many of these fragrances have long since been discontinued and were produced in comparatively small numbers, which already makes them scarce. What elevates their desirability further is the bottle in which they were housed. Guerlain frequently commissioned extraordinary flacons from renowned glassmakers such as Baccarat, Pochet et du Courval, and Lalique. When these rare presentations survive intact, they can significantly increase the value of a perfume, with collectors seeking both the juice and the artistry of the bottle itself.

Among these valuable treasures are scents such as À Travers Champs, Ai Loe, Atuana, Bon Vieux Temps, Bouquet de Faunes, and Candide Effluve, each reflecting Guerlain’s imaginative approach during the first decades of the 20th century. Some fragrances, like Cachet Jaune, Chypre 53, Coque d’Or, and Cuir de Russie, reveal the house’s exploration of bold structures and innovative accords. Others—Djedi, Dawamesk, Fleur de Feu, Fleur qui Meurt, and Fol Arôme—stand out as especially rare, often commanding high prices when they appear on the market, particularly if preserved in their original luxury flacons.

Floral compositions such as Gardenia, Heliotrope, Jasmin, Jasmiralda, Kadine, Lilas, Mi Mai, and Une Fleur further demonstrate Guerlain’s deep engagement with classic perfumery themes, while Kriss, Loin de Tout, Parfum des Champs Élysées, Quand Vient l’Été, and Rue de la Paix embody the house’s artistry in balancing tradition with innovation.

Equally captivating are Sillage, Tsao-Ko, Vague Souvenir, Verveine, Voila Pourquoi J’aimais Rosine, Voilette de Madame, and Le Jardin de Mon Curé, perfumes that are seldom encountered today but remain testaments to Guerlain’s prolific creativity during this period. Each of these scents, when coupled with a rare or artistically significant flacon, becomes not just a perfume but a valuable artifact of olfactory and decorative history.

Very Valuable List:

• A Travers Champs
• Ai Loe
• Atuana
• Bon Vieux Temps
• Bouquet de Faunes
• Candide Effluve
• Cachet Jaune
• Chypre 53
• Coque d'Or
• Cuir de Russie
• Djedi
• Dawamesk
• Fleur de Feu
• Fleur qui Meurt
• Fol Arome
• Gardenia
• Guerlarose
• Guerlilas
• Guerlinade
• Heliotrope
• Jasmin
• Jasmiralda
• Kadine
• Kriss
• Lavande
• Le Jardin de Mon Cure,
• Lilas
• Loin de Tout
• Mi Mai
• Parfum des Champs Elysees
• Pour Troubler
• Quand Vient L'Ete
• Rue de la Paix
• Sillage
• Tsao-Ko
• Vague Souvenir
• Verveine
• Voila Pourquoi J'aimais Rosine
• Voilette de Madame
• Une Fleur

Rarest of the Rare:

The rarest Guerlain perfumes are those originating from the 19th century, many of which have not survived into the present day. These early creations are exceptionally scarce, and when examples do appear, they command very high prices due to both their age and historical importance. Unlike the more familiar 20th-century classics that were produced in greater numbers, most 19th-century Guerlain fragrances were made in limited runs, often tailored to a more exclusive clientele, which further contributes to their rarity today.

These perfumes were typically housed in the carré flacon, a simple square bottle that served as the standard presentation of the time. While the design itself was understated compared to the ornate bottles that came later, its presence immediately identifies a perfume as belonging to Guerlain’s earliest period. Because these flacons are fragile and over 120–180 years old, very few have survived intact, making them highly desirable among serious collectors and perfume historians alike.

The number of Guerlain’s 19th-century creations runs into the hundreds, far too many to list comprehensively. Their rarity lies not only in the perfumes themselves but also in the fact that they represent the foundation of Guerlain’s legacy, offering a glimpse into the house’s earliest experiments in perfumery. For collectors, owning one of these bottles is considered a pinnacle achievement, as they stand among the most precious relics of Guerlain’s long and storied history.

Shalimar 90th Anniversary Exceptional Edition Flacon 2015

In 2015, Guerlain unveiled an extraordinary collector’s masterpiece to commemorate the 90th anniversary of Shalimar, one of the most iconic perfumes in fragrance history. Created just in time for the holiday season, this opulent edition celebrated both the timeless love story that inspired the perfume and the pinnacle of French craftsmanship. The bottle itself, an enlarged interpretation of the classic Shalimar flacon, was realized in deep cobalt blue crystal by the prestigious glassworks Waltersperger—an atelier celebrated for its mastery of large-scale crystal creations for nearly a century. Standing as both a vessel and a work of art, the monumental flacon held an impressive 1.5 litres of Shalimar extrait, reflecting the luxurious spirit and grandeur associated with Guerlain’s heritage.

Encircling the neck of the bottle was a sculptural, 22-carat gilded branch, delicately shaped and hand-applied, lending the impression of fine jewelry rather than mere ornamentation. Resting upon this golden branch were two exquisitely detailed glass birds—symbols of the eternal love between Emperor Shah Jahan and his beloved Mumtaz Mahal, whose devotion inspired Shalimar. Each bird was meticulously handmade by the renowned Maison Desrues, the French haute couture jeweler founded in 1929, and adorned with rich layers of silver, blue, and gold enamel. Their luminous plumage and poised stance brought a poetic vitality to the composition, elevating the bottle into a sculptural allegory of romance and devotion.

Guerlain described the creation as a “real feat that combines unique expertise with the most advanced technologies.” The cobalt glass, molded and finished with exceptional precision by Waltersperger, gave depth and mystery to the perfume within, while the adornments by Desrues reflected the harmonious partnership between haute parfumerie and haute couture. Only seventeen of these numbered flacons were made available worldwide, each representing the pinnacle of artisanal excellence and rarity.

Inside, the essence of Shalimar remained unchanged—its legendary symphony of notes unfolding with the familiar radiance of bergamot and citrus at the top, melting into a tender heart of iris, opopanax, and vanilla, and concluding with the sensual warmth of tonka bean and balsamic resins. This monumental edition thus captured not only the romance of Shalimar’s origins but also the enduring craftsmanship and artistry that continue to define Guerlain’s legacy.

 From Guerlain: 

"The famous Guerlain Shalimar bottle deploys its monumental scale and is cloaked in midnight blue by the French glassmaker Waltersperger specialist in exceptional formats for almost a hundred years. A real feat that combines unique expertise handbook of best advanced technologies. A delicate golden branch with fine 22.5 karat gold carefully wraps around the bottle's neck and grips his shoulder. A couple of birds called inseparable just asked them. Poetic allegory of the eternal love between Shah Jahan and Mumtaz Mahal, this masterpiece craft reveals the expertise and talent of Maison Desrues, French Haute Couture jeweler since 1929. Only 17 numbered pieces are available in the world.  In his music version Shalimar is a flight of citrus notes that fuels a heart and gently wrapping powdered. The footprint of a carnal bewitching vanilla, the penetrating charm of the iris, the balmy roundness opopanax, gourmet hot tonka bean orchestrate an intimate symphony of scents in which to languish.  Maison Desrues brings his artistic talent and expertise to the adornment inseparable birds adorning the bottle Shalimar Edition 90th anniversary. This French Haute Couture artisan founded in 1929 is combined for the first time to Guerlain sublimate for this creation of a rare and modern technique."

You may remember the previous cobalt blue crystal Waltersperger bottle for the Shalimar Nuit de Indes Exceptional Edition from 2014 shown below.

BEWARE!!! COUNTERFEIT GUERLAIN FRAGRANCES

Unfortunately, Guerlain perfumes, like many luxury goods, are being counterfeited and sold online under misleading labels. These fake products are often marketed as “manufacturer’s rejects” or “defective” perfumes, usually unboxed and advertised with the suggestion that they “may have defects.” In reality, these are not genuine Guerlain creations at all, but carefully disguised replicas designed to exploit the brand’s reputation for quality and prestige.

The sellers of these counterfeits use a range of coded terms to make their products sound authentic while avoiding direct mention of the word “fake.” Common labels include “Sephora Dubai,” “Dubai AAA,” “Grade AAA,” “Grade AA,” “1-1 Copy,” “1:1,” “1:1 AAA,” “1VS1,” “Super AAA,” “Super A,” “Super Gred,” “5A Gred,” and even “One Drop Perfume.” Others advertise them as “Original Reject Perfume” or boast claims such as “Similarity: 95%-99% same as original” or “90% like original Dubai Gred 5A.”

These descriptions are crafted to reassure buyers while concealing the fact that the products are counterfeit. For collectors and enthusiasts, it is important to recognize these red flags. Genuine Guerlain perfumes are never sold under such terms, nor are they distributed as “rejects.” The authentic house maintains strict quality control and does not release defective products to the market. Anyone encountering these phrases should approach with caution, as they almost certainly indicate imitation goods that lack both the craftsmanship of the bottles and the artistry of the fragrances themselves.

Also sold as:

• "sephora dubai"
• "Dubai AAA"
• "Gred AAA"
• "1-1 Copy" 
• "1:1"
• "1-1"
• "1:1 AAA"
• "1VS1"
• "Grade AAA"
• "AAA Quality"
• "Grade AA"
• "Grade AAA Replica"
• "Super AAA"
•  "Super A"
• "Super Gred"
• "5A Gred"
• "One Drop Perfume"
• "Original Reject Perfume"
• "Similarity: 95%-99% Same As Original"
• "90%LIKE ORIGINAL DUBAI GRED 5A"

Another disturbing trend in the counterfeit perfume trade is the marketing of so-called “tester” bottles by wholesalers, which are in fact nothing more than fakes dressed up with misleading descriptions. These sellers claim that their products are superior copies, often boasting that “all perfume ingredients are imported from France” and that their fragrances are “frozen for a long time” to improve longevity. They even promise that their copies can last “1–2 days,” with so-called “Super AAA quality” and “1-1 copies” lasting “more than 3 days.” Such claims are designed to trick buyers into believing these are high-quality, near-authentic versions, when in truth they have no connection whatsoever to Guerlain or its standards of production.

On counterfeiters’ websites, phrases like “1VS1 fragrance” are used to promote these items as “the best quality copy fragrance.” In their own words, they describe this level as “similar to the origin and smell 70%–90% the same,” which only highlights that they are openly imitating, not creating. These terms are simply another marketing tactic to disguise the fact that the products are fraudulent.

Other counterfeit perfume sellers push their goods under flashy descriptions such as “Grade AAA Sephora Dubai | 99% Like Original” or “Not From China | Not From Indonesia | Perfume & Bottle – BEST QUALITY in Town.” Some even use Malay-language listings with phrases like “99% bau sama seperti original” (99% smells like the original) and “kualiti bukan seperti di pasar malam” (quality not like the night market). The emphasis on “AAA” grading and claims of lasting power are all ways to falsely distinguish their products as premium, when in reality, they are cheaply made counterfeits.

It is essential to remember that none of these perfumes are genuine Guerlain creations. They are manufactured in countries such as China, Malaysia, and Indonesia, and often advertised misleadingly as “100% original” to confuse unsuspecting buyers. Guerlain does not release defective testers, rejects, or alternative “grades” of perfume, and any such claims are a sure sign of counterfeit products.

Also some wholesaler's of COUNTERFEIT PERFUME TESTERS are describing their goods as follows:

"All perfume ingredients are imported from France. So quality will be much better than other suppliers'. And we put more fragrance capacity into every perfumes and freezing it for a long time, so smell can last for a long time. Normally it can keeps 1-2 days, even some Super AAA quality and 1-1 Copies can last more than 3 days."

This was also found on a counterfeiters site:

"1. What is Is 1VS1 fragrance ?                                              
The best quality copy fragrance!!!
2. What is 1VS1 fragrance?                                      
1VS1 fragrance, of good quality, is similar to the origin and smell 70% - 90% same."

 Here is more from other sites:

"Grade AAA Sephora Dubai | 99% Like Original
Not From China | Not From Indonesia
Odor Remained Up To 8 Hours
Perfume & Bottle - BEST QUALITY in Town"
"Grade AAA Sephora Dubai | 99% Bau Sama Seperti Original
Bukan Perfume China | Bukan Perfume Indonesia
Bau Mampu Bertahan Sehingga 8 Jam
Kualiti Bukan Seperti Di Pasar Malam"

Please note that these are all different ways of distinguishing fake perfumes!!!! These ARE NOT originals made by Guerlain. These are made in China, Malaysia and Indonesia. Unfortunately the listings may also say 100% original which adds to the confusion.

Guerlain counterfeit fragrances for men:

• L'Homme Ideal EDT 100ml
• Vetiver Extreme EDT 125ml 

Guerlain counterfeit fragrances for women:

• Champs Elysees EDP 50ml and 100ml
• Eau de Lingerie 100ml
• Idylle 50ml and 100ml
• Insolence EDP 50ml and 100ml
• L'Instant EDP 50ml, 80ml and 100ml
• La Petite Robe Noire EDP 100ml
• La Petite Robe Noire EDT 100ml
• La Petite Robe Noire 2012 EDP 100ml
• La Petite Robe Noire 2012 EDT 100ml
• La Petite Robe Noire Collector Edition 2013 EDP 100ml
• La Petite Robe Noire Collector Edition 2013 EDT 100ml
• La Petite Robe Noire Couture 100ml
• La Petite Robe Noire Eau Fraiche 100ml
• My Insolence EDT 100ml
• Samsara 100ml
• Shalimar EDP 75ml and 90 ml
• Shalimar Parfum Initial L'Eau EDT 100ml
• Perfume sample vials on card: La Petite Robe Noire
• Perfume Gift Sets for La Petite Robe Noire

These are images taken from different fake perfume supplier's websites:

SO YOU THINK YOU BOUGHT A FAKE PERFUME...NOW WHAT?

If you purchased a designer perfume on ebay, flea market or small time vendor, check your bottles against a genuine bottle that you already own or at a dept store or smaller store like Ulta or Sephora.

If you are unfamiliar with the designer perfume you are planning to purchase, go to a department store and examine it first. Check out the shape and color of the product before you order it off the Internet so you can compare it with the product you are thinking about buying.

Check the color of the perfume against a genuine bottle, if the perfume's color is wrong inside your bottle, it is probably a fake. Check to see if there is any floating debris, cloudiness or foreign matter inside the perfume. Also check to see if there is any separation of the contents.

Look at the glass of your bottle, if the glass has streaking, is wavy, has messy corners or any flaws or inconsistencies, it is most likely a fake. Designer perfume bottles are of the highest quality and have to pass quality control inspections at the factory. The bottle should not look cheaply or shoddily made and the glass should not look cloudy or have any air bubbles in any way.

Look at the box itself, watch for excess glue or adhesive tape. If there is a lot of tape or glue inside the perfume box or on the exterior of the packaging, the perfume is probably a fraud. If the perfume's box is made out of very thin material, the product is most likely a fake. Any high-end beauty manufacturer will use high quality paperboard when they're creating a carton for their product. Thin packaging signals a fake.

Carefully examine the cellophane wrap. On a well-made perfume, the cellophane is wrapped closely around the box. If the cellophane is messy or moving around the box, that's a sure sign the perfume's a fake. Most counterfeit products don't have the cellophane so tightly wrapped.

Check the printing on the underside of the box, if it is faded, globbed, or isn't what it should say, it is most likely a fake. If the box looks cheap, or print rubs off easily, made up of low grade flimsy cardboard, lettering too bold or thick, not raised or embossed print or if the words are spelled incorrectly, you probably have a fake. Read the print. Watch for an uneven brand name or any misspelling on the packaging. Check to make sure the font used is correct. Also check to see if your bottle has trademarks and serial numbers. The serial number on the box should match the number on the bottle. The serial numbers should be imprinted on the base of the box and not printed with ink.

Check the threads inside the cap (if any), if they don't screw onto the bottle correctly or don't fit, or is wobbly, it is probably a fake. Also be sure that the spray mechanism works properly.

Look at the small collar label around neck of bottle - is it off center, not fitted correctly

Cheaply printed: the logo letters look weird, too thick/thin or not overlapping correctly, blurry. Also look for different colored bands than normal: black instead of gold. Check the Guerlain logo, if it isn't sharp and clear, you may have a fake.

Also check the label on the bottle. If the printing isn't clear and perfect or match the font of the genuine bottle, you might have a fake. There should also be no globs of ink or off kilter lettering. Also check to see if the label that is supposed to be paper is printed directly on the bottle, another indication of a fake bottle.

Check the bottom of your bottle, if the description can be scraped off easily with a fingernail, this is a good indication it may be a fake. Look to see if a cheap label is stuck on (some perfumes have these etched) applied crookedly or has any info missing or different.

Examine barcodes. Barcodes should be at the bottom of the perfume box. If you see that they are the side of the box, you should be suspicious.

Check that the name of the perfume is spelled correctly, many fakes have a missing letter or the perfume name is slightly different than what it should be.

Look on the ingredients list to see of any of the ingredients is spelled incorrectly.

When applying the perfume, the fragrance should not alter after application within 20 minutes, it should last as long as you are used to.

If the perfume smells unusual or like a cleaning solvent or rubbing alcohol. If you're not sure, take this quick test: apply the perfume from the identical Guerlain fragrance with the identical concentration (eau de cologne, eau de toilette, eau de parfum) department store or other genuine source on one wrist, and the unknown fragrance on the other wrist. Do a smell check to see if they match. If they do match, check again after 10 minutes. A fake won't be able to keep up the olfactory facade and will dissipate quickly. Vintage perfumes usually have their top notes bruised from age, how they were stored, climate in which they were stored and the overall natural shelf life of perfume oils. Take that in consideration if the item is vintage.

Sometimes you might mistake a genuine perfume for a fake one. This confusion can arise if you are nervous or not familiar with the perfume itself. If it's been years since you've last smelled it on your skin, your skin chemistry may have changed which will alter the fragrance. Other factors can be humidity in the air, age of the perfume, and the concentration.

If you've determined that your perfume is a fake, then follow the appropriate measures of filing a claim thru ebay or paypal.

Fake Fragrances: What Is Really in Them?

Government and industry studies and testing have discovered that some of the ingredients that make up counterfeit cosmetics and fragrances are downright dangerous:

Phony cosmetics often contain things such as arsenic, beryllium, and cadmium (all known carcinogens) along with high levels of aluminum and dangerous levels of bacteria. Some of these products have caused conditions like acne, psoriasis, rashes, and eye infections.

Counterfeit fragrances have been found to contain something called DEHP, classified by the Environmental Protection Agency as a probable human carcinogen. These phony perfumes and colognes, which sometimes contain urine as well, have been known to cause serious skin rashes.

From ABC News:

Fake Fragrances: What Is Really in Them? By ELISABETH LEAMY (@elisabethleamy) and VANESSA WEBER
Jan. 27, 2010

"For most shoppers, getting fancy-looking goods at low prices is a good enough reason to buy counterfeit products. But a knockoff is not always a great deal, especially when it comes to counterfeit perfume, because a fake fragrance gets absorbed into the skin.

"Active ingredients found in counterfeit fragrance include things like urine, bacteria, antifreeze," Valerie Salembier, senior vice president and publisher of Harper's Bazaar, said.

Salembier and her staff have dedicated themselves to exposing counterfeits for more than six years. In the January issue of Harper's Bazaar, they target fake fragrances. They brought the issue of counterfeit perfume to "GMA's" attention.

Authorities in Britain and Ireland tested fake fragrances they'd seized and detected urine. Experts speculate it's used as a ph balance stabilizer and for its color

 Dermatologist Jeannette Graf, of Great Neck, N.Y., said she had never seen a reaction from real perfumes, but fake ones can cause contact dermatitis, or an inflammation of the skin.

 "They will invariably say that they felt different as soon as they put it on. They felt burning. They saw redness. It felt uncomfortable, it didn't smell right. And that's almost immediate," Graf said.
 Graf said she is beginning to see more cases, because counterfeit perfumes are easy to buy on the streets and the Internet would not have necessarily had before," Graf said.

Police are stepping up their raids to get the merchandise off the streets and off the market. But just as one shop is shut down, another one pops up.

ABC News' undercover cameras documented shelves upon shelves of fragrances that experts said contain the telltale signs of counterfeits.

"We see it happening every day. I mean, whether it's vendors [selling] out of their trunk at athletic events, whether it's kiosk-type people at flea markets, sometimes, they actually get into the shopping centers," Elaine Marshall, North Carolina's secretary of state, said.

Attempt to Drive Down Demand for Fake Fragrances 

Earlier this month, Marshall's team and other federal and county agencies conducted a raid at a liquidation sale in downtown Durham.

The team seized $3.6 million worth of counterfeits, including fake perfume.

"We want to drive down demand. We want people to realize that it's not a bargain. It's not a bargain because they're dealing with some bad folks," Marshall said.

So the next time you reach for a fake another word should come to mind: fraud.

"It is not a victimless crime. The money spent on counterfeit goods supports terrorism, child labor, drug cartels," Salembier said."

Personal Care Products Council Statement
Jan. 27, 2010

"In response to an ABC News story about counterfeit perfumes the Personal Care Products Council released the following statement:

"Counterfeit products are damaging to all facets of American business and can be hazardous to consumers. According to U.S. Customs and Border Protection, the value of seized counterfeit fragrances increased by more than five times from 2007-2008 to a street value of $6.7 million.

Counterfeiting and piracy have taken a serious, negative toll on our economy, contributing to the loss of an estimated 750,000 American jobs.

"Cosmetic and personal care product companies take great pride in producing safe, quality products, including fragrances. However, unlike authentic fragrances, counterfeit fragrances are not subject to the same strict safety substantiation requirements required under the Food, Drug and Cosmetic Act (FD&C Act). Consumers should purchase fragrances from reputable, recognized retail outlets or directly from the manufacturer, to be assured they are purchasing an authentic, safe product."

What the FBI Says

This is taken directly from the FBI's website, please read carefully.


Counterfeit Cosmetics, Fragrances - Hazardous to Your Health
01/02/14

You see what appears to be your favorite brand name eye shadow, eye liner, or fragrance for sale at a flea market or on an unfamiliar website. You notice the price is lower than what you normally pay at your favorite retail store or through an authorized online dealer.

Before you hand over your hard-earned money, though, keep this in mind: It could be counterfeit, and—in addition to buying something that’s not the real deal—you are also risking your health by buying and using products that may contain substandard or even dangerous substances.

The National Intellectual Property Rights (IPR) Center—of which the FBI is a partner—wants you to know that the volume of all sorts of counterfeit cosmetics and fragrances coming into the U.S. is definitely on the rise…that’s according to our industry partners as well as law enforcement. Why is this happening? Because the Internet has given counterfeiters widespread access to customers, and because criminals increasingly view dealing in counterfeit personal care products—as well as other knock-off consumer goods as well—as a relatively low-risk crime since many of the perpetrators are located outside of the U.S.

Government and industry studies and testing have discovered that some of the ingredients that make up counterfeit cosmetics and fragrances are downright dangerous:

Phony cosmetics often contain things such as arsenic, beryllium, and cadmium (all known carcinogens) along with high levels of aluminum and dangerous levels of bacteria. Some of these products have caused conditions like acne, psoriasis, rashes, and eye infections.

Counterfeit fragrances have been found to contain something called DEHP, classified by the Environmental Protection Agency as a probable human carcinogen. These phony perfumes and colognes, which sometimes contain urine as well, have been known to cause serious skin rashes.

Indicators of Counterfeits

- The packaging differs slightly from the authentic brand (might be a different color or different lettering on the product), and/or the product’s wrapping appears haphazard. 

- The product is being advertised as a “limited edition” even though the authentic manufacturer doesn’t offer it as a limited edition. 

- The price is either slightly or drastically lower. 

- For cosmetics, the product’s consistency or texture just doesn’t feel or look like the authentic brand. 

- For fragrances, there’s something a little off about the scent, and the color of the fluid in the bottle might be different than the original. 

- For both products, they’re being sold at non-authorized retailers, including flea markets, mall kiosks, and over the Internet.

There is no typical profile of the individuals or groups trafficking in these kinds of counterfeit products…and this might just be one of their many illegal activities—often times, the illicit proceeds are used to fund other types of crime. We’ve also seen people selling counterfeit products through online auction sites and other websites just to make a little extra cash…some may not even realize their merchandise is fake.

Because of the dangers to the public, law enforcement is mobilizing against counterfeit cosmetics and fragrances. For example, the nearly two dozen U.S. and foreign agencies that make up the National IPR Center are working on the matter—sharing intelligence with one another, coordinating with state and local law enforcement, and developing relationships with industry representatives.
But we need the public’s help.

First, educate yourself about some of the common indicators of counterfeit cosmetics and fragrances so that you don’t become a victim. If you’re not sure about the authenticity of a product, don’t buy it.

And second, if you think you or someone you know may have purchased counterfeit cosmetics or fragrances—or if you suspect someone of selling counterfeit items—submit a tip to the National IPR Center. The more information law enforcement has, the more effective we can be. With the proliferation of counterfeit goods increasing at an alarming rate, the National IPR Center focuses on keeping these bogus and often unsafe products off U.S. streets while dismantling the criminal organizations behind this activity.