Rex c1890s

Rex by Guerlain, launched in the 1890s, bears a name of simple grandeur. The word Rex comes from Latin, pronounced “reks,” meaning “King.” It evokes an immediate sense of authority, dignity, and timeless power—a title reserved for sovereignty itself. In choosing this name, Guerlain aligned the fragrance with an image of regal elegance and refinement, echoing the noble air of Bouquet du Roi (“The King’s Bouquet”), a well-known 19th-century composition that had inspired it. The name Rex suggested not only prestige but also continuity with a grand perfumery tradition—one that paid homage to the splendor of monarchy, even in an age when empires and courts were beginning to fade into modernity.

The 1890s were a time of transition and fascination with luxury. France stood at the height of the Belle Époque—a period of prosperity, artistry, and cultural brilliance. Paris thrived as the capital of style and sophistication, with women’s fashion embracing sinuous lines, elaborate silks, and the soft shimmer of pearls. Perfume had become not just an accessory but an expression of identity and refinement, often associated with social rank and cultivated taste. Guerlain, already renowned for crafting elegant scents for royalty and the elite, captured this spirit with Rex: a fragrance that felt both classical and commanding, echoing an era’s reverence for tradition while embracing new advances in perfumery.

To women of the time, a perfume named Rex would have carried an aura of majesty and strength. It suggested poise, self-assurance, and noble bearing—qualities admired in the cultured Parisienne who moved easily between art salons and evening galas. Wearing Rex might have felt like donning an invisible crown: subtle yet powerful, refined yet unmistakably present. It embodied the ideal balance between feminine grace and stately grandeur, appealing to a generation of women who sought elegance rooted in history but alive with modern allure.

In scent, Rex would have interpreted its royal theme through a structure rich in florals, resins, and warm oriental notes. The fragrance likely opened with bright, dignified hesperidic tones—perhaps bergamot and neroli—ushering in a floral heart of rose, jasmine, and tuberose that spoke of opulence and purity. The base, characteristic of Guerlain’s early oriental style, would have woven together sandalwood, benzoin, vanilla, ambergris, and musk, creating a composition at once stately and sensual. Each note built upon the last, suggesting layers of velvet, polished wood, and the gleam of gold—a fragrance with both weight and light, presence and refinement.

Within the broader landscape of 1890s perfumery, Rex reflected the dominant trends of the time rather than defying them. The late 19th century favored floral-oriental blends—perfumes that fused the grace of traditional bouquets with the warmth of exotic resins and balsams. However, Guerlain’s artistry ensured that Rex stood apart through its impeccable balance and craftsmanship. Where others might have been heavy or overly ornate, Guerlain’s Rex conveyed nobility through harmony—a true olfactory portrait of a kingly presence, captured in scent.

Thus, Rex was more than a name; it was a declaration of mastery. In an era enamored with beauty, invention, and history, Guerlain’s Rex embodied the crown of perfumery itself—a fragrance that spoke softly of power, refinement, and the eternal allure of the royal ideal.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Rex is classified as a floral oriental fragrance.

• Top notes: bergamot, neroli, rose, bitter almond
• Middle notes: clove oil, rose attar, orris, jasmine, violet
• Base notes: tonka bean, coumarin, benzoin, vanilla, vetiver, Tonkin musk, civet, ambergris

Scent Profile:

Rex unfolds like the entrance of royalty—majestic, deliberate, and commanding attention without needing to raise its voice. The first impression is a sparkling overture of bergamot, a citrus essence sourced from the sun-drenched groves of Calabria, Italy. Its aroma is both lively and refined—less sharp than lemon, more floral than orange—imbued with natural compounds like linalyl acetate and limonene that lend brightness and effervescence. The bergamot’s green zest is softened by neroli, distilled from the blossoms of bitter orange trees in Tunisia, whose honeyed, slightly metallic character adds grace and sensuality. Together, they create the effect of golden light on polished marble—both fresh and dignified. 

Beneath this freshness lies a whisper of rose, delicate yet confident, its velvety petals providing a soft floral bridge to the richness to come. The faint bitterness of almond, extracted from crushed kernels, introduces an edible warmth—a mingling of heliotropin and benzaldehyde molecules that evoke marzipan and sweet tobacco, suggesting both refinement and indulgence.

As the fragrance deepens, the heart becomes a lush floral tapestry. Clove oil, sourced from Madagascar, lends a fiery undertone through its main component, eugenol—a molecule prized for its spicy warmth and faintly woody nuance. It gives the perfume a pulse, a regal rhythm. This spice is tempered by rose attar, a distilled blend of rose petals and sandalwood traditionally crafted in Kannauj, India. This rose is darker, more resinous than its European cousins—its damascenone and phenylethyl alcohol components exhale sweetness edged by faint smoke, as though the flower were glowing in candlelight. 

The luxurious orris root, aged for years before distillation, lends its powdered, violet-like scent—an aristocratic texture created by irones that mimic the tactile softness of silk. Jasmine rises next, warm and narcotic, its indolic molecules shimmering with sensuality, while violet lends a breath of coolness, its ionones diffusing a soft, dreamy haze over the florals. Together they form an opulent bouquet—radiant, romantic, and utterly regal.

As the perfume settles, the composition reveals its true majesty in the base—a velvety, golden warmth that defines the Guerlain signature. Tonka bean, sourced from Venezuela, provides a foundation rich in coumarin, the molecule that lends the scent of new-mown hay and almond-like sweetness. Here it is both comforting and sensual, merging with benzoin from Siam, whose vanillic, resinous aroma adds body and a faint incense-like glow. Natural vanilla, with its vanillin and piperonal components, weaves a creamy sweetness that softens the resins and links them to the soft, earthy tone of vetiver from Haiti, whose vetiverol content gives an elegant dryness—a reminder of aged woods and clean earth.

The animalic notes give Rex its soul. Tonkin musk, once derived from the glands of the musk deer, provided a deep, warm sensuality with nuances of leather and skin; modern recreations retain that enveloping softness through muscone and macrocyclic musks. Civet, historically from the Ethiopian civet cat, contributes a subtle feline warmth—an element that, when used in trace amounts, transforms a composition from beautiful to carnal. Finally, ambergris, weathered from the sea, imparts a salty-sweet radiance that diffuses the heavier notes, acting as a natural fixative and enhancing the longevity and projection of the fragrance.

The interplay between natural and synthetic elements in Rex creates a structure both classical and forward-looking. Early synthetic isolates such as coumarin and ionones would have amplified the natural facets—heightening the almond tone of tonka bean, the powder of orris, and the violet haze—creating a composition of impeccable balance. The result is an olfactory portrait of nobility: warm yet restrained, sensual yet dignified.

To smell Rex is to experience the grandeur of the late 19th century distilled into scent—a fragrance that speaks of candlelit salons, heavy brocade, and the soft gleam of gold. It is the scent of sovereignty rendered in perfume form—composed not merely to adorn, but to command admiration.

Bottles:

Rex was housed in the Carre flacon as seen below.

It was also available in stilboide fluide.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Rex was most likely discontinued within 1910-1920 period. It remains a rare Guerlain fragrance to be found today.

Guerlain Cosmetics & Skincare c1950s-1970s

Young Princess c1890

Young Princess by Guerlain, launched in 1890, exemplifies the house’s dedication to creating perfumes that conveyed elegance, refinement, and a sense of aristocratic grace. The name itself, Young Princess, evokes imagery of youth, delicacy, and a gentle sophistication—a fragrance designed to transport the wearer into a world of noble refinement. The term suggests innocence intertwined with poise, conjuring visions of a young woman draped in fine fabrics, attending a garden fête, or moving gracefully through the gilded salons of late 19th-century Europe. The name offered consumers not merely a scent but an aspirational identity: the ability to feel like royalty in everyday life, an intimate touch of elegance and dignity.

The fragrance emerged during the Belle Époque, a period celebrated for its artistic flourishing, technological innovation, and luxurious fashions. Women’s styles favored soft silhouettes, delicate laces, and floral embellishments, reflecting a culture that prized refinement and grace. In this context, Young Princess aligned perfectly with contemporary tastes, embodying the era’s preference for floral compositions that were sophisticated yet approachable. Guerlain’s creation would have appealed to women seeking to express subtle charm and cultivated taste, offering a soft, sweet, and polished floral character that was both elegant and memorable.

In comparison to other perfumes of the time, Young Princess balanced the prevailing trends with Guerlain’s signature artistry. While floral fragrances were common, this perfume distinguished itself through its particular refinement and harmonious layering of notes, producing a scent that was sophisticated but never overpowering. Its delicate sweetness and soft florals would have been immediately recognizable, leaving a gentle, lingering impression. Through Young Princess, Guerlain not only captured the essence of late 19th-century femininity but also demonstrated how fragrance could evoke emotion, identity, and aspiration, allowing every wearer to feel for a moment like royalty.

Parfums Préparés par Condensation:

Young Princess occupied a distinguished place within Guerlain’s Parfums Préparés par Condensation series, a carefully curated collection celebrated for its originality, refinement, and character. The series’ name, literally translating to “Perfumes Prepared by Condensation,” highlights the sophisticated steam distillation method used to extract aromatic compounds from raw materials—a technique widely employed in the 19th and early 20th centuries. In this process, flowers, plants, or other fragrant materials are exposed to steam, causing volatile aromatic compounds to vaporize. The resulting vapor is then cooled and condensed back into a concentrated liquid essence. Compared to simpler methods such as enfleurage or maceration, which rely on absorption or soaking, condensation captures a purer, more complete olfactory profile, preserving subtle nuances and enhancing the richness and longevity of the perfume. Guerlain’s inclusion of a fragrance in this series signaled not only technical mastery but also olfactory sophistication and artisanal quality.

Within the series, each perfume was designed to convey a distinct personality. Le Jardin de Mon Curé presented a flowery, persistent, and original character, while Belle France exuded a fresh and lingering aroma. Bouquet Mademoiselle offered a suave, gracefully charming scent, whereas Cyprisine was highly accentué, emphasizing certain notes for a striking impact. Dix Pétales de Roses was fresh, flowery, and smooth, while Gavotte and Grande Maréchale emphasized originality and enduring presence. Paris Nouveau and Rodomel highlighted sweet, flowery tones that were charming and lasting, and Tsao-Ko was particularly accentuated, making it immediately recognizable. Violette à Deux Sous offered a sweet, persistent, and suave impression. Young Princess, rounding out the series, conveyed a soft, sweet, and sophisticated character, offering a gentle elegance that harmonized with the series’ overall refinement.

The descriptors used across the series—accentué, suave, persistent, and original—carry precise meanings. An accentué fragrance emphasizes specific notes, rendering them prominent and memorable. A suave perfume is smooth and polished, harmoniously balanced to convey elegance without overwhelming the wearer. A persistent scent carries heavier, longer-lasting notes, leaving a subtle yet enduring trail, while an original fragrance introduces novelty, presenting inventive and unexpected olfactory experiences. Within this context, Young Princess exemplifies Guerlain’s ability to blend softness and sophistication, offering a delicate yet enduring expression of refinement and femininity that resonates with the technical artistry of the Parfums Préparés par Condensation series.

Fragrance Composition:

Young Princess would likely present as a gentle, refined floral bouquet with a soft, sweet elegance. Imagine lifting a delicate veil of scent: the first impression is airy and tender, with lightly sugared floral notes that are neither overwhelming nor sharp—almost like the scent of a freshly picked spring bouquet brushed with morning dew. There’s a subtle sweetness, evoking soft petals and perhaps a hint of powderiness, giving it a sophisticated, almost ethereal quality.

As the fragrance develops, you might detect layered floral nuances—rose, violet, and perhaps a whisper of jasmine—blended so harmoniously that no single note dominates, but each adds depth and dimension. This is a fragrance meant to feel gentle on the skin, softening into a lasting impression of warmth and elegance.

The base would bring subtle richness: faint musky and woody undertones that lend persistence, leaving a soft trail that’s graceful and understated. There’s no harshness here—rather, it’s a composed, elegant perfume that feels both comforting and refined, evoking the poise and gentle sophistication suggested by its name, Young Princess.

In short, it’s a tender, sweet, and floral fragrance, refined yet approachable, like the olfactory equivalent of a quiet, graceful presence in a room.

Bottles:

Young Princess was housed in the the flacon Plat, the perfume epitomized the grace, elegance, and aristocratic femininity associated with its time.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown. Still being sold in 1894

Stilboide Fluide

Stilboide Fluide was one of Guerlain’s early grooming preparations — a refined liquid hair and beard groom that combined practicality with the elegance of perfumed luxury. Introduced as early as 1875, it exemplified Guerlain’s ability to merge beauty and function, transforming even the simplest of daily rituals into an act of sophistication. The name Stilboide itself evokes a sense of sheen and fluidity, fitting for a product designed to give hair a healthy luster and polished finish. In texture and purpose, it was much like brilliantine, a fashionable hair dressing of the late 19th century, prized by both men and women for its ability to add shine, tame frizz, and impart fragrance to the hair.

 "For that satiny sheen which a dash of brilliantine gives..."

The formula of Stilboide Fluide was primarily an alcohol-based mixture combined with perfume oils, which gave it both a grooming and an aromatic function. Over time, the alcohol component evaporates more readily than the dense aromatic oils — which explains why, in surviving vintage bottles today, the two substances have often separated, with the clear alcohol resting below and the golden oils rising to the top. When freshly mixed, however, the liquid would have glistened like pale amber and released a fine veil of scent when applied to the hair or beard.

1875 ad

What set Guerlain’s version apart was not merely its formulation but the fragrances that perfumed it. Depending on the period, Stilboide Fluide was offered in various Guerlain scents — a mark of refinement and personalization. Whether it was the powdery sweetness of Jicky, the floral charm of Eau de Cologne Impériale, or another house creation, each version subtly perfumed the wearer’s hair with a fragrance that lingered throughout the day. This scented grooming product reflected a time when perfuming one’s hair was considered an intimate form of luxury — an invisible halo of refinement and allure.

 The Delineator, 1935

"To pick up a wave with unexpected swiftness there are Yardley's Setting lotion, lavender-scented, has more convenient atomizer, and Guerlain's Water Lustrale. For that satiny sheen which a dash of brilliantine gives, I offer you Guerlain's Stilboide — perfumed with your favorite "Shalimar" - glamourous."

A fascinating detail from period advertisements notes that the product was made “to maintain the curl of the so-called English papillotes.” Papillotes referred to a hairstyling technique in which small strips of paper were used to wrap sections of hair before curling — a method popular among both fashionable women and men of the 19th century. When the hair was released, it formed soft, defined curls that framed the face. The Stilboide Fluide, lightly brushed through the hair or applied to fingertips before styling, would have enhanced the curl’s shape, adding gloss and flexibility while delicately scenting the coiffure.

In its time, Stilboide Fluide represented more than a grooming aid; it was an embodiment of the Victorian and Belle Époque ideals of personal elegance. The ritual of applying it — much like using pomade or scented powder — spoke to an age in which grooming was an art form and fragrance was part of one’s social presence. Today, surviving bottles of Stilboide Fluide not only reveal the technical sophistication of early Guerlain formulations but also tell a story of a bygone world where even hair care was touched by perfumed artistry.

Scents:

Some of the earliest Stilboide Fluid scents were:

• Bouquet
• Chypre
• Coq Gaulois
• Derniere Cri
• Des Pages
• Fragrans
• Heliotrope
• Jicky
• Makis
• New Mown Hay
• Pepita
• Rex
• Simplex
• Sornette
• Violette
• Ylang Ylang

Stilboide Fluide was available in the following scents:

• Apres L'Ondee
• A Travers Champs
• Bouquet de Faunes
• Candide Effluve
• Chypre
• Chypre 53
• Coque d'Or
• Cuir de Russie
• Dawamesk
• Djedi
• Eau de Cologne Extra Dry
• Fleur de Feu
• Fol Arome
• Guerlarose
• Guerlilas
• Guerlinade
• Hegemonienne
• Jasmin
• Jicky
• Kadine
• L'Heure Bleue
• Liu
• Mitsouko
• Muguet
• Parfum des Champs Elysees
• Rue de la Paix
• Shalimar
• Sillage
• Sous Le Vent
• Une Rose
• Vague Souvenir
• Vega
• Violette
• Vol de Nuit

 

 

Pola Negri, c1920s, holding a Guerlain atomizer (spraying her coiffure with brilliantine).

Bottles:

The Stilboide Bottle as we recognize it, was first used in 1922. It was created by Pochet et du Courval in two moulds:

• Mould #13349 = 10.6cm - 60cc
• Mould #13561 = 13.5cm - 120cc

These had various ground glass stoppers and were housed in the blue banded cardboard box.

Colored Crystal Quadrilobe Bottles 2016

In 2016, Guerlain unveiled an extraordinary celebration of color, craftsmanship, and sensory imagination with the Color Collection—a series of limited-edition crystal quadrilobe flacons that transformed the art of perfumery into a symphony of sight and scent. This collection was inspired by the principle of synesthesia, the fascinating idea that one sense can evoke another—where color can be “felt” as fragrance, and scent can be perceived as hue.

Each of the five bottles in the collection glows with a brilliant, jewel-like radiance, as if sculpted from pure light. The classic quadrilobe flacon, a shape synonymous with Guerlain’s prestige and first designed in 1908 by Baccarat, serves as the perfect canvas for this chromatic fantasy. Its symmetrical curves and precise geometry take on new vitality when rendered in vibrant crystalline colors—each tone seemingly pulsing with its own emotional resonance, from deep sapphire to emerald, ruby, amber, or amethyst. These colors were not chosen at random; rather, they evoke moods and sensations, suggesting how a color might “smell” if given fragrance—an interplay between sight and scent that feels almost musical in its harmony.

Each flacon is crowned with a silken barbichage tassel, meticulously crafted and hand-fluffed by the Dames de Table, the skilled artisans of Guerlain’s atelier. Their delicate work lends a final touch of elegance, as the tassel softly cascades over the bottle’s neck—its threads shimmering in the light, echoing the hues of the glass beneath. This detail, so simple yet so sumptuous, elevates each piece into an object of haute parfumerie art, where every gesture of craftsmanship matters.

Retailing for 650,00 €, these radiant bottles were conceived not only as collector’s treasures but as personal keepsakes—the kind of gift imbued with both meaning and beauty. Guerlain suggested that the bottles could also represent birthstones, their luminous colors aligning with the traditional gems of each month. Thus, the collection invites a more intimate gesture: a perfume bottle that is both a symbol of identity and affection, marking birthdays, anniversaries, or milestones with a deeply personal touch.

The Guerlain Color Collection stands as a testament to the Maison’s poetic vision—where artistry meets emotion, and color itself becomes perfume. Each flacon is more than a vessel; it is a prism through which the invisible art of fragrance is made visible, tangible, and endlessly radiant.

Spiritueuse Double Vanille:

Spiritueuse Double Vanille radiates from its bottle in a fiery shade reminiscent of a Padparadscha sapphire—that rare and mesmerizing gem that glows somewhere between rose and golden sunset. The color captures the duality of the fragrance itself: warm yet radiant, exotic yet comforting. The Padparadscha sapphire, along with its blue counterpart, is associated with the month of September and the zodiac sign Taurus, both linked to steadfast beauty and sensual groundedness. In the world of gemstones, the sapphire also symbolizes fidelity and wisdom, making it the traditional gift for a 65th wedding anniversary—a fitting parallel to the enduring richness and depth of this composition.

 

Classified as an oriental fragrance for women, Spiritueuse Double Vanille opens in a blaze of warmth and mystery. The first breath reveals a glimmer of pink pepper, adding a delicate sparkle that tingles the senses, immediately followed by the golden luminosity of bergamot. This citrus note—sourced from Calabria—is prized for its balance of brightness and softness, imparting a refined freshness that tempers the sweetness to come. Incense curls through these top notes, its resinous smoke adding intrigue and a meditative hush, as though the perfume’s story begins at dusk, when the air turns honeyed and still.

At its heart, the fragrance blossoms into a sensual harmony of jasmine, Bulgarian rose, ylang-ylang, cedar, and spices. The jasmine, lush and narcotic, lends a solar creaminess that feels both exotic and serene. From Bulgaria, the rose introduces a rich, honeyed depth—a fragrance known for its high content of natural phenylethyl alcohol, giving it its velvety and long-lasting quality. Ylang-ylang, a tropical flower from the Comoros Islands, contributes its unmistakable buttery sweetness, laced with banana and clove-like undertones. The spices weave through this floral heart like threads of gold—perhaps cardamom, clove, or even a whisper of cinnamon—adding warmth and a gentle exoticism. Meanwhile, the cedarwood provides structure: dry, noble, and faintly smoky, grounding the bouquet with a touch of the forest.

As the scent deepens, Spiritueuse Double Vanille unveils its sumptuous base—an opulent embrace of amber, benzoin, vanilla, and incense. The vanilla here is not a mere sweet note but a complex symphony of vanillin, coumarin, and trace resins, all drawn from the sun-cured pods of Madagascar. Its aroma is simultaneously creamy, smoky, and woody, enriched by the benzoin resin from Laos, which adds a caramel-like smoothness. Amber glows like candlelight, radiating a sweet resinous warmth, while the lingering incense brings continuity from top to base—its sacred, balsamic smoke giving the fragrance a spiritual gravitas.

In Spiritueuse Double Vanille, natural and synthetic elements intertwine to perfection: the real vanilla absolute is bolstered by modern vanillin molecules that amplify its richness and extend its presence, ensuring it smolders beautifully on the skin for hours. The result is a scent that feels like liquid light—an ambered flame encased in a gemstone bottle. Sensual, comforting, and timeless, it captures the essence of warmth itself, glowing with the quiet luxury and eternal beauty of its sapphire muse.

Santal Royal:

Santal Royal is presented in a bottle of deep emerald green, a hue that seems to shimmer with mystery and quiet power. The color evokes both nature’s lush abundance and the regal elegance long associated with precious gemstones. The emerald, prized since antiquity, is the birthstone for May, symbolizing renewal, vitality, and eternal love. It also corresponds to the zodiac sign Cancer, a sign known for its emotional depth and sensitivity—qualities that echo through this perfume’s soulful, enveloping character. Traditionally, the emerald is given to commemorate a 20th wedding anniversary, representing a mature, enduring bond—one that mirrors the fragrance’s luxurious depth and lasting resonance.

 

Classified as a leathery oriental fragrance, Santal Royal opens with a radiant interplay of neroli and cinnamon. The neroli, distilled from the blossoms of the bitter orange tree, lends a honeyed luminosity with hints of green and floral brightness—a nod to Mediterranean warmth and sunlight. Cinnamon follows with its rich, spicy sweetness, adding a flicker of warmth that immediately conjures opulence and sensuality. Together, these top notes create a golden prelude that glows against the darker backdrop to come.

At the heart of the composition lies rose and sandalwood, the pairing that defines the fragrance’s noble character. The rose is lush and velvety—both romantic and majestic—while the sandalwood, revered for centuries as a sacred wood, offers creamy, resinous smoothness. The sandalwood’s origin in this blend is particularly significant: Indian sandalwood is among the most prized varieties, known for its sweet, warm, and milky aroma, which is both grounding and transcendent. Its essential oil contains natural molecules like santalol, which provide lasting tenacity and a sense of meditative calm. Here, sandalwood’s natural richness is deepened by synthetic boosters that extend its longevity, ensuring that its golden warmth lingers like polished silk on the skin.

As the scent settles, Santal Royal reveals its profound base of leather, agarwood (oud), amber, and musk—a foundation that feels simultaneously regal and intimate. The leather accord adds a supple, tactile sensuality, like the soft inside of a glove, while the oud brings smoky, resinous shadows—earthy and spiritual, as if whispering ancient secrets. Amber infuses a glowing, honeyed depth, its labdanum-derived warmth enhancing the oriental opulence. Finally, musk envelops the composition in a gentle, skin-like softness, binding the elements together into a seamless, lingering caress.

Encased in its emerald-green flacon, Santal Royal radiates an aura of timeless grandeur. It is a perfume of contrasts—light and shadow, silk and smoke—reflecting the symbolic qualities of its gemstone counterpart: renewal, harmony, and enduring strength. Much like the emerald itself, this fragrance embodies a beauty that feels both eternal and alive, serene yet irresistibly magnetic.

L'Heure de Nuit:

L’Heure de Nuit glows with quiet sophistication, dressed in the tranquil hue of a Kashmir sapphire—a gemstone prized for its velvety, cornflower-blue depth and its ability to capture light as if from within. This particular sapphire, celebrated for its rarity and serene radiance, symbolizes purity, wisdom, and inner peace. Associated with the month of September and the zodiac sign Taurus, the sapphire also holds deep sentimental significance as the traditional 45th wedding anniversary stone—a symbol of enduring devotion and steadfast love. Its soft blue tone perfectly reflects the fragrance’s spirit: elegant, introspective, and luminous, much like the lingering light of dusk that inspired its name, “The Hour of Night.”

 

Classified as a floral woody musk, L’Heure de Nuit is a modern reverie born from the heart of Guerlain’s heritage. It reimagines the tender poetry of L’Heure Bleue—the fragrance of twilight—with a fresher, more diaphanous touch, balancing the nostalgic softness of the past with a radiant contemporary clarity. The perfume opens with the delicate, powdery caress of heliotrope, a flower whose scent evokes almond, vanilla, and warm sunlight. Its aroma comes from natural molecules such as heliotropin (piperonal), which lend a sweet, almond-like warmth with a faint gourmand nuance—nostalgic and comforting, like the memory of skin warmed by the fading sun.

In the heart of the composition, a luminous bouquet unfolds—orange blossom, jasmine, rose, and iris—each petal contributing its own shade of emotion. Orange blossom, sourced from the bitter orange trees of North Africa, adds a radiant freshness with honeyed undertones, its key molecule linalool lending a sense of purity and innocence. Jasmine, rich in indole and benzyl acetate, brings both sensuality and creaminess—its scent like silk brushing against bare skin. The rose, likely Bulgarian or Turkish, offers a velvety warmth and a trace of fruitiness, grounding the brightness with romance. Finally, iris, one of perfumery’s most prized and time-consuming ingredients, adds an elegant, powdery depth. Derived from the aged rhizomes of the Iris pallida of Tuscany, it imparts a buttery, cool, almost silken texture—melancholy yet luminous, the scent of moonlight itself.

As the fragrance settles, the base reveals a soft and intimate harmony of white musk and sandalwood. The musks, both natural and synthetic, wrap the skin in a second-skin warmth—clean yet sensual, like the whisper of silk sheets or the trace of perfume caught in hair. The sandalwood, likely from New Caledonia, offers a creamy, milky smoothness with faint smoky facets due to its naturally occurring santalol compounds. It provides a serene and grounding finish, anchoring the delicate florals without overpowering them.

The result is a fragrance that feels like twilight distilled—the quiet moment between day and night when the air turns soft and introspective. L’Heure de Nuit is both nostalgic and modern, a tender ode to Guerlain’s romantic past reimagined for the contemporary woman. Its sapphire-toned bottle and its scent together evoke serenity, mystery, and the gentle promise of nightfall—an eternal hour suspended between light and shadow.

 

 

Oriental Brulant:

Oriental Brûlant glows with a fiery opulence, its crystal flacon capturing the deep, smoldering hue of a Burmese pigeon blood ruby—a gemstone so prized for its saturated crimson color that it has become the very emblem of passion and vitality. This gemstone, representing the month of July and the Capricorn zodiac sign, also marks the 40th wedding anniversary, symbolizing enduring love and devotion forged in fire. Just as the ruby’s glow seems to contain an inner flame, so too does Oriental Brûlant radiate warmth and sensuality—a fragrance that feels at once glowing and comforting, mysterious and magnetic.

 

Classified as an oriental fragrance for women, Oriental Brûlant is a study in contrasts: smooth and creamy, yet richly spiced; luminous at first, then deep and enveloping. The scent opens with the sun-drenched brightness of tangerine, its effervescent top note sparkling with the freshness of ripe fruit. Italian tangerines, renowned for their balance of sweetness and zest, lend the fragrance a playful, luminous beginning. The essential oil contains limonene and gamma-terpinene, aroma molecules that create the impression of juiciness and vibrancy—an inviting first breath that evokes the heat of an orange grove under a Mediterranean sun.

As the perfume begins to warm on the skin, the heart reveals the soft indulgence of almond—creamy, slightly bitter, and mouthwatering. The note recalls both marzipan and toasted nuts, offering a velvety gourmand texture that bridges citrus brightness and oriental depth. Natural almond oil contains benzaldehyde, which gives it that characteristic sweet, nutty scent, while synthetic almond accords enhance its smoothness and longevity. This balance of natural and crafted elements gives the fragrance its tender, edible warmth—like the scent of a pastry just out of the oven mingling with the faint trace of skin.

The base unfolds with the full, voluptuous richness typical of Guerlain’s oriental creations. Tonka bean, a classic house signature, provides a creamy and balsamic depth. Harvested from the seeds of the Dipteryx odorata tree native to Venezuela and Brazil, tonka beans are rich in coumarin, a molecule that exudes a warm, slightly hay-like sweetness reminiscent of vanilla and almonds. Paired with vanilla, the effect becomes irresistibly soft and enveloping—silken, with a faint smokiness that feels like embers glowing at the base of the perfume. The styrax resin completes the composition with its resinous, slightly leathery undertone. Extracted from the bark of Liquidambar orientalis, styrax adds a subtle note of caramelized smoke, deepening the fragrance and lending it an almost antique sensuality.

Together, these ingredients weave a symphony of warmth and sensual harmony. Oriental Brûlant feels like liquid fire—its opening bright as a flame, its heart tender as its embers, and its base glowing with quiet intensity. The ruby-red bottle mirrors the fragrance perfectly: both are timeless emblems of passion and strength, radiating beauty born from heat and transformation. To wear it is to be enveloped in the luxurious glow of Guerlain’s oriental heritage—a fragrance that smolders rather than shouts, leaving behind a trail as rich and enduring as the gemstone that inspired it.

 

  

L’Eau de Parfum du 68:

L’Eau de Parfum du 68 is a fragrance that radiates with the quiet duality of light and shadow, of warmth and coolness, just like the gemstone that inspires its bottle — the ametrine, a natural fusion of amethyst and citrine. The flacon itself glows in bicolor crystal, merging purple and golden hues that evoke both spiritual calm and solar radiance. Ametrine’s unusual blend of violet and amber tones mirrors the essence of the perfume within: a composition that seamlessly balances floral grace, spicy depth, and woody warmth. Though ametrine has no official month, its connection to both February’s amethyst and November’s citrine imbues it with symbolic richness — representing harmony, clarity, and transformation. Appropriately, it could mark either the 6th or 13th wedding anniversaries, occasions that celebrate enduring balance between passion and serenity.

 

Classified as a woody spicy floral fragrance, L’Eau de Parfum du 68 feels both timeless and modern, like an olfactory reflection of Guerlain’s storied address at 68, Champs-Élysées — a house of perfume and artistry. The fragrance opens with a warm yet radiant introduction of immortelle and rose, two ingredients that perfectly embody contrast. The immortelle, or everlasting flower, comes from the Mediterranean coast and is known for its honeyed, herbal scent with nuances of maple syrup and dried straw. Its aroma, rich in neryl acetate and italidione, imparts a golden warmth that glows from the first inhalation. The rose, likely Bulgarian or Turkish, provides a counterpoint — fresh, velvety, and luminous. Its natural geraniol and citronellol molecules lend the opening a floral brightness that tempers immortelle’s sun-drenched sweetness, much like the interplay between the purple and gold hues of the ametrine.

The heart of the fragrance deepens into a spiritual and resinous warmth. Incense rises at the center, its smoky tendrils creating an almost meditative stillness. The resins used in perfumery, such as olibanum, contain alpha-pinene and limonene, contributing a balsamic freshness that balances the density of the smoke. Alongside it, heliotrope unfurls its powdery, almond-like scent — soft, nostalgic, and luminous. The benzoin, sourced from Siam or Laos, brings a balsamic sweetness reminiscent of vanilla and amber, rich in benzoic acid and vanillin compounds that lend the composition both warmth and comfort. A dusting of spices, perhaps clove, cinnamon, or pink pepper, adds vibrancy and keeps the heart alive with quiet movement, like sunlight flickering through stained glass.

The dry down reveals the refined craftsmanship that defines the Guerlinade — the signature base accord that forms the soul of many Guerlain creations. This blend of tonka bean, vanilla, iris, and woods gives L’Eau de Parfum du 68 its silken texture and lingering sensuality. The woods and leather notes add structure and sophistication, grounding the composition with an earthy richness. Tonka bean, harvested in South America, contributes its creamy warmth through its high coumarin content, which blends beautifully with the balsamic benzoin and the faint sweetness of heliotrope. The result is an enveloping trail that feels simultaneously classic and modern — a luxurious echo of Guerlain’s heritage infused with quiet sensuality.

Wearing L’Eau de Parfum du 68 is like stepping into the gilded twilight of the Champs-Élysées boutique itself — where crystal refracts amber light and the air hums with the faint trace of incense and powdered flowers. It is both radiant and introspective, an exquisite harmony of opposing forces that captures the dual nature of ametrine: warmth and calm, sun and shadow, body and spirit intertwined in fragrant alchemy.

Aqua Allegoria Pera Granita 2016

Aqua Allegoria Pera Granita, launched in 2016, embodies the spirit of sunlit leisure and effortless joy that defines the Aqua Allegoria collection. The name Pera Granita — Italian for “pear sorbet” — captures this perfectly. Pronounced "PEH-rah grah-NEE-tah", it conjures visions of chilled sweetness, radiant afternoons, and laughter shared over cool treats under Mediterranean skies. The choice of Italian lends a sense of sensuality and pleasure, reflecting Guerlain’s ability to translate simple natural delights into refined olfactory experiences.

The name itself feels tactile — you can almost sense the crunch of icy granita crystals and taste the juicy burst of pear juice melting into citrus. Pera Granita evokes emotions of joy, freshness, and spontaneous delight. It is the perfume of a carefree spring day, filled with sunshine and movement. The word “granita” also nods to texture — a balance between liquid and ice — much like how the fragrance balances fruitiness with a cool, crystalline transparency.

When Pera Granita debuted in 2016, perfumery was in a phase often described as the era of freshness reimagined. The industry was moving away from heavy, gourmand compositions of the early 2000s and toward fragrances that celebrated airiness, luminosity, and natural simplicity. Fashion echoed this shift: minimalism, fluid silhouettes, and effortless femininity were favored over overt glamour. Designers embraced sheer fabrics and pastel tones — a perfect match for a fragrance that feels like chiffon on warm skin. Guerlain’s Aqua Allegoria line, with its focus on natural motifs and luminous textures, resonated beautifully with this cultural mood.

The choice of pear as the central note reflects both tradition and innovation. Pear brings a succulent, juicy brightness to perfumery — its scent is clean, dewy, and gently sweet, without the syrupy heaviness of other fruits. Because natural pear essence cannot be directly extracted, perfumers recreate it synthetically using aroma molecules such as aldehyde C-16, allyl caproate, and ethyl decadienoate. These materials reproduce the creamy, green facets of ripe pear, blending crisp freshness with soft sweetness. Synthetic elements like lactones add a round, velvety texture that evokes the fruit’s tender flesh, while subtle woody and floral undertones mimic its natural complexity. The result is a note that feels both realistic and luminous — alive with the sparkle of sunlight.

To heighten the illusion of granita, Thierry Wasser surrounded the pear with grapefruit and lemon, both of which lend their zesty energy. The grapefruit’s nootkatone molecule contributes a dry, woody-citrus tang that counterbalances the pear’s sweetness, while citral and limonene in lemon oil create a sharp, clean brilliance reminiscent of crushed ice or a spritz of cold mist. These top notes shimmer on the skin like condensation on a chilled glass.

 

Pera Granita captures a moment — the very first bite of pear sorbet, when sweetness and chill meet in a fleeting spark of delight. Women of the 2010s, drawn to light and easy-to-wear fragrances, would have related to its youthful, spontaneous energy. It feels approachable yet sophisticated — a scent that complements casual elegance rather than commanding attention.

In the context of its time, Pera Granita aligned with the growing trend of “fruit transparency” in perfumery — scents that celebrated fruitiness without becoming gourmand. Yet Guerlain’s execution set it apart. Where many fruity fragrances of the decade leaned synthetic or overly polished, Pera Granita retained a natural, textured feel, as if the ingredients had been caught mid-bloom, mid-ripen, mid-melt.

Ultimately, Aqua Allegoria Pera Granita is not merely about pear — it is about the experience of freshness: the laughter of friends on a terrace, the sparkle of sunlight through a glass of chilled fruit nectar, and the soft kiss of a breeze carrying the scent of citrus and spring. It is a sensory portrait of joy — fleeting, refreshing, and endlessly elegant.

From Guerlain:

"The Aqua Allegoria are among Guerlain's most emblematic fragrance collections. Their launch in 1999 was a bold gamble. That of taking nature as sole muse and creating a unique olfactory genre: the first collection of eau fraîche in perfumery. 

Pera Granita is a juicy and cheerful Eau de Toilette, a walk among the garden of the Hesperides.  The spirit of bergamot with a note of of pear.

 Juicy Fruity Citrus. Fizz, radiant, tangy

 For each creation, the Guerlain Perfumer showcases one or two raw materials, drawing their originality from a unique alchemy. Short formulas with incredible intensity and freshness, between simplicity and sophistication.

Its pure and refined bottle with a golden mesh celebrates the iconic Guerlain Bee Bottle."

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Aqua Allegoria Pera Granita is classified as a fresh fruity-floral fragrance for women. The scent is inspired by pear sorbet and is just as refreshing as this delicacy! A juicy pear note transformed into a granita with the zesty freshness of grapefruit and lemon.

• Top notes: grapefruit, lemon, bergamot, pear
• Middle notes: osmanthus note, orange blossom
• Base notes: moss, white musks, cedar note

  

Scent Profile:

Aqua Allegoria Pera Granita opens like a burst of sunshine caught in a cool mist — an awakening of fruit, ice, and light. As the first spray settles, the top notes unfold in a dazzling cascade. Grapefruit dominates the introduction with its tart, slightly bitter zest. The variety used in fine perfumery often hails from Florida or Israel, prized for its lively balance between acidity and sweetness. Its key aroma molecule, nootkatone, lends a crisp, dry woodiness that cuts through the sparkling surface like a shard of citrus ice. Beneath it, lemon from Sicily brightens the composition with effervescent clarity. The high concentration of limonene and citral in Sicilian lemon oil imparts that characteristic sparkle — sharp and crystalline, yet softened by sunshine. The effect is not merely refreshing, but effusive — as though the air itself had been squeezed from freshly cut rinds.

Then the bergamot appears — luminous and elegant, a hallmark of Guerlain’s heritage. Grown primarily in Calabria, Italy, bergamot brings a refined, almost floral citrus tone through molecules such as linalyl acetate and linalool, giving the perfume its polished smoothness. Bergamot acts as a bridge, blending the biting brightness of lemon and grapefruit with the juicy, tender sweetness of the pear that follows. Because pear essence cannot be naturally extracted, its aroma is recreated through synthetics such as ethyl decadienoate and allyl caproate, which mimic the fruit’s soft flesh and watery sweetness. These compounds give a creamy, nectar-like nuance, while subtle aldehydes lift the scent, keeping it airy rather than sugary. The impression is that of biting into a perfectly ripe pear — cool, delicate, and dripping with freshness.

As the perfume warms on the skin, the middle notes unfold like sunlight melting over a frozen sorbet. A silken osmanthus note appears, conjuring the apricot and suede-like qualities of the small golden blossoms cultivated in China’s Guangxi province. Osmanthus absolute is one of perfumery’s most complex materials — containing ionones and lactones that lend both fruity warmth and a tender, leathery undertone. This duality softens the tart citrus and pairs gracefully with the velvety fruitiness of the pear. Accompanying it is orange blossom, whose bright white petals introduce a touch of Mediterranean sensuality. Derived from the blossoms of bitter orange trees grown in Tunisia and Morocco, orange blossom absolute contains nerol, linalool, and anthranilic acid esters, which lend the familiar blend of honeyed sweetness and green freshness. Synthetic boosters such as hydroxycitronellal and methyl anthranilate are used here to amplify its luminous clarity — making the flower seem to glow rather than bloom.

Gradually, Pera Granita moves into its serene, velvety base. The delicate sweetness of the fruits and flowers finds grounding in moss, white musks, and a hint of cedarwood. The moss note recalls the green dampness of forest floor rather than the dark intensity of oakmoss — a modernized, airy interpretation created with synthetic molecules like Evernyl. The white musks, a family of soft, clean-smelling synthetic molecules such as Galaxolide and Habanolide, provide that gauzy texture so characteristic of contemporary Guerlain compositions — a feeling of freshly washed linen brushing against sun-warmed skin. The cedar note, inspired by Virginia cedarwood, brings subtle dryness and a faint whisper of pencil-shaving woodiness through compounds like cedrol and thujopsene, lending structure to the otherwise ethereal finish.

Smelling Pera Granita from start to finish is like walking through an orchard at dawn after a cool rain. You first catch the sharp sparkle of citrus peel, then the juicy, translucent sweetness of pear glistening on the branch. As you move deeper, blossoms unfurl and mingle with the scent of sunlit wood and soft moss beneath your feet. The balance between nature and artistry — between natural essences and carefully chosen synthetics — creates a fragrance that feels alive, full of motion and light.

Each element, from Calabrian bergamot to Chinese osmanthus, contributes its own sensory world, yet all are bound together by Guerlain’s deft hand into a symphony of freshness and texture. Pera Granita is not merely a fragrance — it is an experience of cool radiance, a fleeting, joyful pause that captures the pure delight of a summer afternoon turned into scent.

Bottle:

The fragrance is available in the following:

• 2.5 oz Eau de Toilette
• 4.2 oz Eau de Toilette 

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown.

Paris Nouveau c1883

Paris Nouveau by Guerlain, launched in 1883, captures the elegance and vibrancy of late 19th-century Parisian life. The name “Paris Nouveau”, French for “New Paris” (pronounced par-ee noo-voh), evokes images of the city in transition—modern boulevards, fashionable promenades, and the rising cultural influence of the Belle Époque. It suggests freshness, sophistication, and a cosmopolitan flair, appealing to women eager to associate themselves with the progressive, stylish energy of the French capital. The term conveys optimism and charm, invoking both the novelty of modernity and the timeless allure of Parisian refinement.

The perfume emerged during a period known as the Belle Époque (circa 1871–1914), a time marked by artistic innovation, social sophistication, and industrial advancement. Fashion emphasized elaborate dress, lace, and fine jewelry, while Paris itself became a hub for luxury goods, including perfumery. In this context, a fragrance called Paris Nouveau would have resonated deeply with contemporary women: it promised a scent aligned with elegance, modernity, and cultural sophistication—a signature of the city itself. The fragrance would have been interpreted as a sweet, charming, and enduring olfactory representation of Parisian refinement, perfectly complementing the lifestyle and aspirations of its wearer.

Described as possessing sweet, flowery tones that are simultaneously charming and enduring, Paris Nouveau likely blended bright floral top notes with a rich, graceful floral heart and a warm, lasting base. While floral compositions were common in the late 19th century, Paris Nouveau distinguished itself by its ability to harmonize freshness and sweetness with persistence, ensuring that the fragrance left a lasting, elegant impression. In the context of the period’s perfumery, it aligned with contemporary trends favoring refined, approachable floral fragrances but stood out through its balance and character—embodying the essence of modern Paris in a scent.

Parfums Préparés par Condensation:

Paris Nouveau occupied a notable place within Guerlain’s “Parfums Préparés par Condensation” series, a curated collection of perfumes renowned for their originality, refinement, and distinctive character. The phrase, literally translated as “Perfumes Prepared by Condensation,” refers to an advanced method of extracting aromatic compounds from raw materials, most commonly through steam distillation, a technique widely employed during the 19th and early 20th centuries. In this process, plant or flower materials are exposed to steam, which volatilizes their aromatic compounds. The resulting vapor is then cooled and condensed into liquid form, producing a concentrated essential oil or aromatic essence. Compared to simpler methods such as enfleurage or maceration, which rely on absorption or soaking, this technique captures a purer, more complete profile of the fragrance, highlighting subtle nuances and enhancing both richness and longevity. For Guerlain, designating a perfume as part of this series signaled technical mastery, olfactory sophistication, and artisanal excellence.

Each fragrance in the series possessed a distinct personality. Le Jardin de Mon Curé was celebrated as flowery, persistent, and original, while Belle France exuded a fresh and enduring aroma. Bouquet Mademoiselle offered a suave, gracefully charming presence, and Cyprisine was highly accentué, with intentionally heightened notes for striking impact. Dix Petales de Roses provided a fresh, flowery, and smooth experience, whereas Gavotte and Grande Maréchale emphasized originality and lasting presence. Paris Nouveau and Rodomel, in particular, highlighted sweet, flowery tones that were simultaneously charming and enduring, evoking sophistication and modernity. Tsao-Ko stood out for its accentuated, immediately recognizable character, while Violette à Deux Sous presented a sweet, persistent, and suave impression. Young Princess offered a soft, sweet, and sophisticated character, rounding out the series with understated elegance.

Within this context, descriptive terms carry precise meaning: accentué emphasizes particular notes, making them immediately prominent and memorable; suave denotes a smooth, polished, and harmoniously balanced composition that conveys elegance without overpowering; persistent signals heavier, longer-lasting notes that leave an enduring olfactory trail; and original indicates a novel, inventive composition, reflecting Guerlain’s creative audacity. Paris Nouveau, with its sweet, charming, and enduring floral profile, exemplifies the series’ dedication to artistry, refinement, and the subtle mastery of olfactory expression.

Fragrance Composition:

Paris Nouveau would likely open with a softly sweet, sparkling floral bouquet, immediately evoking an impression of elegance and refinement. Imagine the top notes releasing a delicate citrus-laced sweetness, such as bergamot or lemon, lightly brightening the composition while blending seamlessly with tender violet and rose tincture. This initial freshness would be gentle rather than sharp, a refined introduction that evokes sunny Parisian promenades in spring.

As the perfume develops, the heart would unfold into a rich, layered floral core. The combination of jasmine, rose otto, and iris (possibly enhanced with ionones) would create a powdery, soft floral texture, reminiscent of a carefully arranged bouquet of spring blossoms on a summer morning. There might also be a subtle herbal or green nuance from vetiver or rosewood, adding depth and sophistication without overpowering the delicate florals. This middle stage balances sweetness and floral elegance, giving the perfume a graceful, almost genteel personality.

Finally, the base notes would ground the fragrance in warmth and longevity. Ambergris, civet, sandalwood, and musk would emerge subtly, adding a sensual, lingering richness. The effect would be soft, creamy, and enduring, giving the sweet florals a luxurious foundation that feels both comforting and sophisticated. If Guerlain incorporated resins like benzoin or storax, the perfume would carry a faint balsamic sweetness that rounds out the composition with a gentle glow.

Overall, Paris Nouveau would smell sweet, powdery, and floral, yet layered with sophistication—a scent that is charming without being heavy, graceful without being simplistic, and perfectly in keeping with the elegance expected of a late-19th-century Parisian fragrance. It would be a perfume for someone who wants to leave a gentle, memorable impression of refinement and understated luxury.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Paris Nouveau, relaunched in 1993, carried forward the refined elegance and sweet floral charm of its original composition, yet with a modernized approach that reflected late 20th-century perfumery trends. Its scent would have retained the delicate powdery floral heart and soft citrus lift, appealing to women seeking both sophistication and subtle nostalgia. The perfume’s reissue likely highlighted the lushness of the florals while smoothing the texture of the base notes for contemporary sensibilities.

Despite this updated release, the fragrance eventually disappeared from the market, with the exact date of discontinuation remaining unknown. Historical records indicate that it was still available around 1894 in its original form, showing its enduring appeal over decades. This continuity underscores Paris Nouveau’s ability to capture the timeless charm of sweet, enduring floral fragrances while maintaining its relevance across different periods.

The perfume’s longevity in the market illustrates its classic character: a fragrance that blends sweet, powdery florals with a gentle warmth and subtle elegance, appealing to women who appreciated refinement, grace, and understated luxury. Its sustained presence across generations speaks to Guerlain’s mastery in creating perfumes that are simultaneously evocative, sophisticated, and memorable.